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An  American  Cruiser  in  the  East 


"  Pass  not  unmarked  the  islands  in  that  sea, 
Where  nature  claims  the  most  celebrity, 
Half  hidden,  stretching  in  a  lengthened  line 
In  front  of  China, 

Japan  abounds  in  mines  of  silver  hne. 
And  shall  enlightened  be  bv  holy  faith  divine." 

CamoenS,  Tht  Lu;iad. 


G'^^ 


AN 

AMERICAN  CRUISER 

IN  THE  EAST 

Travels  and  Studies  i?i  the  far  East 

The  Aleutian  Islands,  Behring's  Sea,  Eastern  Siberia, 

Japan,  Korea,  China,  Formosa,  Hong  Kong, 

and  the  Philippine  Islands 


BY 

JOHN    D.    FORD 

Fleet  Engineer  of  the  Pacific  Station,  United 
Slates  Nu'-vy 


Second  Edition,   with  account  of  the  Battle  of  Manila, 
April   30,  1898 


New  York 

A.  S.  Barnes  and  Company 

1898 


J 


Copyright,  1S98, 
By  a.  S.  Barnes  &  Co. 


mnibn-sitg  Press : 
John  Wilson  and  Son,  Camhridge.  U.S.A. 


CONTENTS 

Page 

INTRODUCTION i 

Chaptkr 

I.     The  Start 5 

II.     Unalaska,  Aleutian  Islands 14 

III.     Cruisln'G  in  Behrixg  Sea 24 

IV.     Petropaulski,    Kamtchatka.      Eastern 

Siberia 38 

Y.     Kamtchatka,  Eastern  Siberia 44 

VI.     Yokohama,  Japan 51 

VII.     ToKio,  THE  Capital 76 

VIII.     Kobe,  Japan 124 

IX.     Osaka,  Japan 153 

X.     Constitution  and  Government  of  Japan     .  1S5 

XI.     Population  and  Industry  of  Japan     .     .     .  190 

XII.     A  Trip  to  the  Northwestward 227 

XIII.     A  Trip  to  Korea 237 

XI\'.     Seoul,  the  Capital  of  Korea 251 

X\'.     PiNG-VANG,  Korea 259 

X\'I.     Korea 278 

XVII.     Shanghai,  China 293 

X\TII.     Ningpo,  China 305 

XIX.     Formosa 320 

XX.     Amov,  China 331 


825851 


viii  Contents 

Chapter  Page 

XXI.     Canton,  China 343 

XXII.     The  Government  and  People  of  China  .     .  376 

XXIII.  HoNG-KONG,  China 399 

XXIV.  Macao,  China 411 

XXV.     Manila,  Philippine  Islands 417 

XXVI.     The  Philippines 432 

APPENDIX 

The  Japan-China  War 443 

More  about  the  Philippines 469 

Naval  Battle  of  Cavite 479 

The  Capture  of  Manila  and  the  Philippines  by 
THE  Combined    Sea   and    Land  Porces   of   the 

United  States,  August  13,  1898 500 

INDEX       .     .     .• 511 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS 


JuJix  U.  Ford Frontis/iece 

Page 

The  Point  of  Tomioka,  Japan 48 

A  Japanese  Torii  and  Lanterns 49 

Fujiyama 51 

The  ioi  Steps  at  the  Bluff,  Yokohama,  Japan,  with  the 

Celebrated  Zenaea  Tea-House  on  the  Left      ...  52 

Yokohama,  Japan 53 

The  Grand  Hotel,  Yokohama,  Japan 56 

Yokohama  Bluffs,  Japan 57 

JiNRiKisHA  IN  Japan 59 

The  Imperial  Japanese  Government  Buildings,  Yokoiia.ma, 

Japan 61 

A  Japanese  Sampan 63 

Japanese  Green-Grockr's  Shop 65 

A  Japanese  Actor 66 

Dai  Butsu,  THE  "Great  Buddha,"  near  Kamakma,  Japan     .  67 

Enoshema,  Japan 70 

Japa.vese  Junks 72 

Harvesting  the  Rice  in  Japan       73 

A  Street  Scene,  Tokio,  Japan 77 

Making  Rice  Flour,  Japan 79 

Wistaria 80 

A  Garden,  Tokio,  Japan 81 

Entrance  to  Kwanin  Temple,  near  Tokio,  Japan  ....  85 

Vegetables  i.n  Japan 87 

Japanese  Acrobats SS 

Sweets  and  Toys 89 

Japanese  Jugglers 90 


X  List  of  Illustrations 

Page 
Entrance  to  the  Mortuary  Temples  of  the  Shoguns  at 

Sheba,  near  Tokio,  Japan 91 

Japanese  Troubadours 93 

Temple  of  the  Shoguns,  Sheba,  near  Tokio,  Japan  ...  95 
The  Temple   Font  at  the   Shogun   Temples,  Sheba,  near 

Tokio,  Japan 97 

Ancient  Japanese  Armor 98 

Temple  of  the  Shoguns,  Sheba,  near  Tokio,  Japan  ...  99 
Temples  of  the  Shoguns  at  Sheba,  near  Tokio,  Japan  .  loi 
Tomb  of  "Roku  Dai,"  the  Sixth  Tokugawa  Shogun,  Sheba, 

NEAR  Tokio,  Japan 

Temple  of  the  Shociuns,  Sheba,  near  Tokio,  Japan    .     . 

A  Japanese  School     

Japanese  Wrestlers 

Japanese  Wrestlers 

A  Lotus  Field     

In  a  Japanese  Rice-Field 

The  Mikado's  Palace  at  Tokio,  Japan 

Bamboo  Grove  at  Fukiagu,  Tokio,  Japan 

Chrysanthemums 

A  Sedan  Chair  in  Japan 

Shimonoseki,  the  Entrance  to  the  Inland  Sea  of  Japan 

"The  Falls"  at  Kobe,  Japan 

Japanese  Wood-Pedler 

Kobe  and  the  Inland  Sea  of  Japan 

Japanese  Fruit  Shop 

Dry  Goods  Shop,  Kobe,  Japan 

Japanese  Dancing-Girls,  —  the  "  Gkisha" 

Japanese  Babies 

A  Trip  into  the  Country,  —  the  "Kaga" 

Japanese  Carpenters 

A  Japanese  Barber  Shop   

Nunabiki  Waterfall  at  Kobe.  Japan 

One  Method  of  Irrigating  the  Land  in  Japan  .... 

A  Japanese  Clog-Maker 

A  Japanese  Home  Dinner 

Japanese  Doctor  and  Patient 

How  They  Sleep  in  Japan 

The  Family  Bath,  Japan 


List  of  Illustrations  xi 

Page 

Making  the  Toilet,  Japan 147 

The  Hair-Dresser  in  Japan 148 

The  Sick  Babe,  Japan 149 

A  Tattooed  Japanese 150 

Japanese  Cooper 151 

Picking  Tea  Leaves  in  Japan 153 

Japanese  Cabinet-Maker  at  Osaka 154 

Japanese  Pottery  at  Osaka,  Japan 155 

Entrance  to  Nagasaki   Harbor.      Papinbekg  in  the  Dis- 
tant Centre 157 

Japanese  Sampan  Ferry 159 

Up  the  Mountain  Stream,  Nagasaki,  Japan 160 

The  Hillside  Graves 161 

An  Old  Stone  Bridge,  Nagasaki,  Japan 163 

Japanese  Toy  Pedler      165 

Fish  and  Fresh  Provision  Shop,  Japan 166 

Nagasaki  Harbor  at  Noon  on  a  Fourth  of  July  ....  167 

Artists  Decorating  Lanterns 169 

A  Funeral  Procession  in  Japan 171 

Coffin  and  Funeral  Ornaments,  Japan 172 

A  Japanese  Country  House  near  Nagasaki,  Japan     .    .    .  173 

In  the  Rice-Field 174 

The  Dry  Dock  at  Nagasaki,  Japan      175 

Japanese  Bull  Cart 179 

"The  Old  Mill"  at  Nagasaki,  Japan 180 

Moji,  Japan .  1S2 

Hillside  Graves  of  the  Martyrs,  Moji,  Japan 183 

Ancient  Japanese  Warrior 187 

Japanese  Firemen  on  Parade i93 

Shinto  Priest,  Japan 196 

Buddhist  Priest,  Japan I99 

Japanese  Wood-Carving 200 

Japanese  Homes -02 

Japanese  Tramps 204 

A  Coolie 207 

Making  Umbrellas  in  Japan 209 

Japanese  Wood-Carver 211 

Japanese  Lacquer  Ware 213 

An  Instrumental  Concert,  Japan 217 


xii  List   of  Illustrations 

Page 

Japanese  Artists  Decorating  Porcelain 221 

A  Chinese  Cart 227 

Chemulpo,  Korea 2^7 

A  Delegation  of  Koreans  Visit  the  "  Alert  " 245 

Korean  Mourning  Costume 247 

Seoul,  the  Capital  of  Korea 251 

Gateway  to  Seoul 253 

Gaieway  to  the  King's  Palace,  Seoul,  Kore.v        ....  255 

The  Korean  Army 257 

Ping-yang,  Korea 259 

Fortifications  and  Governor's  Housk,  Ping-yang  Inlet    .  263 

A  Korean  Young  Wo.man 265 

A  Korean  House,  Ping-yang  Inlet 266 

Fortifications 267 

Korean  Buddhist  Priests 270 

Broughton  Bay  and  Gen-san 272 

His  Majesty  Li-Fin,  King  of  Korea,  and  his  Royal  High- 
ness the  Crown  Prince 2S0 

The  Prime  Minister  of  Korea 2S2 

The  "Choson,"  the  only  Vessel  in  the  Korean  Navy      .  284 

A  Korean  Family 286 

Sacred  White  Horse  of  Jungu  Temple 288 

The  Korean  Army,  —  Skirmish  Drill 289 

Chinese  Junk 293 

A  Road  in  Shanghai,  China 303 

Waier-Front,  Ningpo,  Chlna 305 

A  Corner  of  the  City  Wall,  Ningpo,  China 307 

Tin,  Pontoon  Bridge,  Ningpo,  China 309 

A  Ningpo  Chinese  Family 311 

NiNi'.po  Chinaman 316 

Chart  of  the  World 321 

Old  Banyan-Trees 327 

The  Deified  Rocks  at  Amoy,  China 332 

Foreign  Residences  at  Korlangsoo,  Amoy,  Ciifna  ....  335 

Lampotoh  Temple,  Amoy,  China 337 

Woman  of  Sw  \row,  China 340 

Map  of  Old  Canton 349 

The  Bare  Pagoda,  Canton,  China 357 

Chinese  Punishment, —  In  the  Caugue 350 


List  of  Illustrations  xiii 

Page 

A  Knotty  Case  in  Old  Canton 361 

A  Cantonese  Family       363 

Execution  of  Chinese  Rebels 366 

Temple  of  the  Ocean  Banners,  IIonan,  Canton     ....  369 

The  Water-Front  of  Old  Canton 373 

Camel  Caravan  bound  for  Peking,  China 391 

IIon(".-kong 399 

The  Queen's  Road,  Hong-kong 401 

The  Water-Frcjnt,  Hongkong  in  a  Fog 403 

The  Parsee  Cemetery  in  the  Happy  Valley,  Hong-kong   .  404 

Residence  of  the  Tartar  General,  New  Chwang,  China    .  411 

Woman  of  Northern  China 415 

Manila,  Philippine  Islands 419 

An  Indian  Warrior  of  the  Philippine  Islands 422 

Church  of  Dominicans,  Manila Facing  422 

Natives  of  Manila,  Philippine  Islands 423 

Bell  Tower  shaken  by  Earthquake,  New  Cathedral, 

Manila       Facing  424 

Open  Air  Theatre,  Manila       „  426 

A  Native  of  Manila,  Philippine  Islands 427 

Valley  of  the  Apostles,  Cavite Facing  428 

A  Native  of  Manila,  Philippine  Islands 429 

A  Cock-Pit  at  Manila,  Philippine  Islands 431 

The  Untamed  Indians  of  the  Philippine  Islands  ....  433 

Natives  of  Manila,  Philippine  Islands 436 

Cay-Sabo  River,  Cavite       Facing  436 

Native  Bull  Sled,  Manila,  Philippine  Islands 438 

Native  Woman  of  Manila,  Philippine  Islands 439 

Japanese  Mounted  Infantry.     By  a  Japanese  Artlst     .    .  446 

Imperial  Chinese  Troops 459 

Japanese  Artillery.     By  a  Japanese  Artist 464 

Battle  of  Manila  Bay 481 

Pasig  River,  Manila.   Governor-General's  Palace  .      Facing  484 

Manila  Harbor,  8  a.  m.,  May  i,  1898 „  4S6 

Effect  of  5-iNCH  Shell  in  Malite  Fort      ....         „  486 

(Spanish  Flag-ship)  "Reina  Cristina,"  IMav  i,  1S9S         „  4S8 

"IsLA  DE  Luzon,"  May  i,  1898 „  4S8 

"Castilla,"  May  i,  189S „  49° 

"San  Antonio  de  Ulloa,"  May  i,  1898 „  49° 


XIV 


List  of  Illustrations 


Church  of  Paranaque Fi 

The  Battle  of  Cavite 

Corner  of  Old  City  Wall,  Manila  (Bay  Side)  .    . 

Old  City  Wall,  Manila  (Land  Side) 

Sangley  Point  Battery  after  Engagement    with 

the  "  Baltimore  " 

Philippine  Artillery,  Malite,  July  i,  1S98     ... 

Church  and  Convent,  Old  Cavite 

Main  Entrance  to  Cavite 

Spanish  Arms  Stacked  on  the  Plaza,  Old  Manila 
9.5-iNCH  Gun,  Old  Manila 


Page 

cttig  492 

494 
496 
496 

498 
500 
500 
502 
504 
504 


Introduction 

AFTER  a  term  of  duty  at  the  Baltimore  Manual  Training 
School,  having  watched  its  growth  from  nothing  to 
live  hundred  students;  having  seen  four  classes  of  one  hundred 
and  twenty  voung  men  graduated,  settled  in  good  employ- 
ments, and  well  started  in  their  chosen  lifework  ;  having 
witnessed  the  material  increase  from  two  bare  floors  in  the 
old  schoolhouse  on  Courtland  Street  to  the  acquisition 
and  equipment  of  the  entire  building,  together  with  the  lease 
and  equipment  of  the  annex,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
street,  and  the  erection  and  furnishing  of  the  five-story 
building  adjoining  and  connecting  with  the  old  schoolhouse, 
—  I  opened  my  mail,  on  the  2d  of  July,  1890,  and  found 
an  order  which  required  me  to  report  for  duty  in  San 
Francisco  on   the    13th   of  the  month. 

The  work  had  been  laborious.  There  were  some  data 
for  other  circumstances,  but  none  to  suit  our  conditions. 
We  were  doing  pioneer  work.  Every  lesson  and  every 
course  of  study,  both  in  the  laboratories  and  the  draughting- 
rooms,  had  to  be  studied  out  and  devised,  in  order  to  obtain 
such  as  would  furnish  the  largest  amount  of  hand  and  eve 
work,  so  that  it  could  be  made  to  supplement  the  purely  liter- 
ary work,  blending  together  and  producing  the  desired  result, 
thus  solving  the  problem.  How  to  adjust  Manual  Train- 
ing to  the  Public-School  System  ?  The  results  show  how 
well  or  how  ill  the  work  has  been  done. 


2  Introduction 

Although  my  official  relations  with  the  school  had  been 
severed  by  the  receipt  of  the  order,  I  desoted  the  remaining 
days  to  getting  things  in  shape  tor  my  unknown  successor, 
and  had  never  realized  until  then  how  it  had  endeared 
itself  to  me.  But  the  last  day  came,  as  last  days  always 
will   come! 

His  Honor  the  Mayor,  and  the  Officers  and  iMembers  of 
the  School  Board  tendered  me  a  farewell  dinner  at  the 
Rennert.  After  sitting  through  the  feast,  from  the  oysters 
to  the  black  coffee  and  cigars,  where  all  had  kind  words 
and  pleasant  wishes,  we  all  stood  and  sang  "  Auld  Lang 
Syne."  Then  came  the  hardest  part  of  all,  the  "good-bye  " 
and  the  "  God  bless  you." 

A  little  later,  I  bade  farewell  to  dear  old  Baltimore,  and 
took  rny  seat  in  a  Pullman  sleeper  of  the  "  Overland  Flyer," 
on  the  hottest  night  that  has  been  known  in  this  section  for 
manv  vears.  As  the  train  was  rushing  through  the  tunnel 
and  beyond,  I  remembered  how  kind  and  helpful  all  had 
been  to  the  work  I  was  leaving  behind.  Our  Senators  and 
Representatives  had  interested  themselves  in  it  from  its 
inception.  The  newspapers  had  sent  their  representatives, 
investigated,  and  commended.  The  Mayor,  the  Councils, 
and  the  School  Board  had  been  generous  in  their  appropria- 
tions. The  Chairman  and  Committee  had  always  been  a 
unit  for  the  school.  The  Faculty  was  devoted  and  zealous, 
and  the  great  majority  of  the  students  appreciated  their 
opportunities. 

The  next  night  Chicago  was  reached  and  left  behind  us, 
and  we  were  still  rushing  through  the  great  flat,  treeless 
plains  towards  the  Rocky  Mountains.  Council  Bluffs, 
Omaha,  Grand  Island,  Cheyenne,  Laramie,  Green  River, 
Granger,  Ogden,  Winnemucca,  Reno,  Trucker,  and  Sum- 


Introduction  3 

mit,  seven  thousand  feet  above  the  sea-level,  and  scores  of 
other  cities  and  towns,  were  passed  by  as  we  sped  from 
prairie  to  desert  and  over  hills  and  mountains.  From  Sum- 
mit the  road  ran  down  the  Pacific  slope,  through  Sacra- 
mento to  Oakland,  where  we  crossed  the  bav  in  the  big 
steamer  to  San  Francisco,  ha\  ing  lett  Baltimore  late  on 
Tuesday  night  and  arrived  in  San  Francisco  on  the  follow- 
ing Sunday  morning.  The  car  services,  sleeping  and  din- 
ing, left  nothing  to  be  desired. 

Having  completed  mv  duty  in  San  Francisco  b\-  the  end 
of  September,  I  repaired  to  the  Mare  Island  Na\  y  Yard, 
and  joiried  the  U.  S.  S.  "  Alert  "  for  a  cruise  in  Behring  Sea 
and  the  far  East.  The  cruise  was  \ery  interesting,  and  the 
experiences  were  valuable.  Behring  Sea  and  Korea  were 
revelations  to  me.  During  a  large  portion  of  the  cruise  we 
visited  Japan,  China,  Hong-kong,  and  the  Philippines, 
which  gave  me  the  opportunity  to  compare,  modify,  or  con- 
firm the  impressions  ot  years  ago  ;  and  mv  desire  is,  to  show 
those  countries  and  their  people  as  I  saw  them. 


An  American  Cruiser  in  the 
East 


CHAPTER    I 

THE    START 

ON  the  morning  of  the  i8th  of  June  we  cast  off 
the  lines  that  bound  us  to  the  water-front  of  the 
Mare  Island  Navy  Yard,  and  steamed  down  the  river 
towards  San  Francisco.  After  reaching  the  bay,  we 
changed  our  course  to  keep  clear  of  the  great  steamer 
which  plies  between  that  city  and  Oakland ;  and  passing 
bv  the  city,  we  rounded  to,  and  stood  through  the  Golden 
Gate,  running  against  a  stiff  breeze  and  a  heavy  chopped 
sea.  As  soon  as  we  were  well  outside  of  the  land,  upon 
the  bosom  of  the  broad  Pacific,  bearings  were  taken,  and 
the  vessel  was  headed  for  Unalaska,  Aleutian  Islands,  about 
twentv-two  hundred  miles  away.  The  clouds  lowered  and 
became  almost  black,  and  the  once  chopped  sea  gradually 
increased  until  we  had  a  heavy  head  sea,  causing  the  old 
ship  to  roll  and  pitch  in  a  most  uncomfortable  manner. 

The  little  ship,  that  was  to  be  our  home  for  the  next 
two  years  and  a  half,  was  an  iron  steamer,  175  feet  long, 
35  feet  beam,  15  feet  6  inches  deep,  and  of  1,020  tons' 
displacement.  It  was  full  bark-rigged,  and  had  an  old- 
fashioned  bow.  Her  armament  consisted  of  one  elc\en- 
inch  smooth-bore  pivot  gun,  two  nine-inch  smooth-bore 
broadside  guns,  one  sixty-pounder  breech-loading  rifle,  and 
several  machine  guns  and  brass  pieces. 


6         An   American   Cruiser   in   the   East 

We  had  a  lot  of  almost  worthless  Japanese  for  servants,  — 
poor  fellows,  who  had  left  their  island  home  to  seek  their 
fortunes  in  America.  They  had  met  with  poor  success,  and 
were  discouraged  and  homesick.  To  get  away  from  their 
uncongenial  surroundings,  and  with  the  hope  of  ultimately 
reaching  Japan,  they  shipped  as  servants  for  our  cruise. 
They  made  poor  seamen  ;  for  as  the  gale  increased,  boy 
after  bov  disappeared,  —  sick,  down  with  mal  de  mer^  —  and 
before  the  close  of  the  day  we  had  but  one  servant  in  con- 
dition for  service.      One  bov  to  look  after  a  dozen  of  us  ! 

Our  head  wind  and  sea  stuck  to  us,  and  continued  to 
increase,  as  though  winds  and  seas  never  came  from  any 
other  direction.  After  experimenting  for  four  davs,  it  was 
determined  to  abandon  the  direct  course  to  Unalaska, 
and  to  make  a  leading  wind  of  the  present  freshness,  run- 
ning into  Victoria,  British  Columbia,  to  refill  our  bunkers 
and  to  make  a  new  start. 

The  bad  weather  we  were  experiencing  gave  us  the 
opportunitv  of  testing  the  seamanship  and  endurance  of 
our  men,  as  a  great  deal  of  sail-drilling  was  necessary  ;  and 
before  the  end  of  it  we  realized  that  we  had  about  as  fine 
a  crew  as  ever  went  to  sea.  Many  of  them  were  not  only 
good  seamen,  but  possessed  qualities  that  promote  the 
happiness  of  a  ship's  company.  There  were  some  jewels 
in  the  engine  department,  —  men  who  worked  well,  and  in 
the  early  watches  of  the  night  excelled  in  song  and  dance  ; 
they  could  "  spout  "  quotations  from  an  "  improved  "  Shake- 
speare or  the  dime  "  Ready  Speaker,"  with  a  fervor  and 
gesture  that  would  cause  an  actor  to  blush.  These  inter- 
ested and  amused  the  forecastle  and  the  fire-room,  and  made 
Jack's  time  pass  pleasantly  during  the  loneliest  hours  of  the 
nights,  from  tea-water  to  hammocks.  We  had  men  who 
were  formerly  elegant  "  barn-stormers,"  but  had  been  finan- 
cially wrecked  in  their  showy  ventures;  also  an  ex-negro 
minstrel  from  down  the  coast,  and  an  athlete  who  had  seen 


The   Start  7 

Sullivan  ;  but  the  cream  of  the  crew  was  the  dude  barber, 
whose  carroty  frizzes  were  always  parted  in  the  middle. 
He  wore  the  finest  embroidered  trousers  and  shirts,  and  the 
ship's  name,  in  solid  silver,  on  his  cap  ribbon  ;  his  clocked 
silk  hose  and  elegant  pumps  were  the  envy  of  all  the  young- 
sters, from  the  forecastle  to  the  maintop.  He  could  trip  the 
light  fantastic  toe,  in  hornpipe  or  jig,  make  good  music 
from  almost  any  instrument,  "  splice  the  main-brace,"  or 
jump  aloft  as  nimbly  as  an\-.  Of  course,  such  a  paragon 
soon  became  the  favorite  of  the  crew,  and,  to  his  credit,  he 
held  this  good  opinion  throughout  the  cruise.  As  I  have 
stated,  we  had  artists  and  poets  amongst  the  crew,  and 
many  of  their  stories  of  imagination,  told  to  a  gaping  audi- 
tory in  the  dark  midnight  watches,  might  "  cause  each 
particular  hair  to  stand  on  end,"  or  provoke  mirth  that 
would  disturb  the  slumbers  of  the  watch  below  ;  and  we  had 
some  old  fellows  who  were  so  salt  that  thev  would  secure 
all  the  sea  water  they  could  stow  awav,  to  use  for  bathing 
purposes  when  the  vessel  was  in  fresh-water  rivers. 

Early  on  the  24th,  we  sighted  the  Olympics  and  headed 
for  Cape  Flatterv,  the  most  northerly  point  of  land  project- 
ing from  the  State  of  Washington,  and  just  opposite  V'^an- 
couver  Island.  We  entered  the  Strait  of  Juan  de  P\ica, 
between  the  cape  and  the  island,  and  headed  tor  Victoria, 
British  Columbia.  On  one  side  of  the  strait,  the  great 
black  mountains  are  covered  with  dense  forests  until  the 
snow-line  is  reached  ;  beyond  which  the  darkness  is  trans- 
formed into  an  eternal  whiteness,  rending  the  heavens  and 
piercing  the  clouds,  thousands  of  feet  abo\'e  us.  Several 
Indian  villages  are  scattered  along  the  foot  of  the  moun- 
tains.  Braves,  and  squaws  with  their  pappooses,  stroll 
along  the  beach  and  admire  the  great  white  war-canoe  that 
is  forging  its  way  through  the  waters.  Others  paddle  their 
canoes  upon  the  quiet  waters,  or  haul  seine  or  line  in  pur- 
suit of  unwary  members  of  the  finny  tribe. 


8         An   American   Cruiser   in   the   East 

A  cool  breeze  and  calm  sea  bring  our  late,  not  sea-sick, 
but  sick  of  the  sea,  messmates  from  their  rooms,  with 
appetites  as  big  as  the  ship.  Crackers,  cheese,  and  beer 
are  in  demand ;  and  the  stentorian  voice  of  our  most 
excellent  caterer  is  heard  in  vain  protests  against  this  dan- 
gerous raid  upon  the  sea  stores.  As  the  day  passes  into 
night,  the  Olympics,  with  a  nearly  full  moon  shining  upon 
them,  appear  like  masses  of  blackness  capped  with  dancing 
gold  ;  and  the  old  ship  speeds  on  through  placid  waters, 
carrying  a  mass  of  silvery  waves  at  her  bow,  which  make 
faint  dashes,  and  are  lost  upon  the  beach,  where  the  tiny 
lights  and  fires  of  the  Indians  dance  like  "  will-o'-the- 
wisps "  amidst  the  blackness.  About  ten  o'clock  we 
anchored  near  the  inner  harbor  of  Victoria,  and  were  soon 
surrounded  by  a  little  fleet  of  pleasure-boats,  whose  happy 
occupants  gave  us  some  fine  music,  instrumental  as  well 
as  vocal  ;  and  we  found  that  these  good  people  were  as 
curious  to  see  a  Yankee  man-of-war  as  the  Indians  of 
the  strait   had  been. 

Victoria,  British  Columbia 

Victoria  is  situated  on  the  southern  end  of  Vancouver 
Island,  in  the  Strait  of  Juan  de  Fuca,  and  has  grown  from 
old  Fort  William,  a  trading  post,  which  is  nearly  as  old  as 
the  fur-trade  on  the  North  Pacific  coast.  It  is  still  a 
seat  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Companv,  which  has  fine  store- 
houses in  the  city,  where  almost  anything  can  be  purchased 
or  traded. 

The  fur-trader  was  close  behind  the  hunter,  and  thev 
were  soon  followed  by  the  prospector  and  the  miner,  as 
vast  quantities  of  gold  were  supposed  to  be  hidden  in  the 
hills.  The  finds  were  not  equal  to  the  expectations, 
and  the  rush  soon  cleared  out  what  was  there ;  but  the 
coal   mines    that   were  discovered  have  proven  themselves 


The   Start  9 

vastly  more  important  to  this  pcntioii  of  the  world  than  the 
precious  metal  could  possibly  have  been.  The  mines  at 
Nainaimo  and  vicinity  supply  the  whole  upper  Pacific  coast, 
including  San  f'rancisco  as  well  as  the  railroads  and  ship- 
ping, and  make  lite,  manufactures,  and  commerce  possible. 
Timber  is  abundant,  but  the  government  cares  for  it,  and 
its  cutting,  on  a  large  scale,  is  discouraged. 

The  business  portion  of  the  city  is  built  around  an  inner 
harbor  which  is  protected  by  a  point  of  land  that  juts  out 
into  the  strait.  Many  improvements  are  being  made  in 
this  part  of  the  city  :  roads  and  streets  are  being  changed 
and  graded  ;  hollows  and  low  places  are  being  filled  in,  and 
hills  removed,  giving  the  place  a  "  fussy  "  appearance. 
There  are  many  handsome  buildings  that  would  be  orna- 
ments  in  any  city.  Through  the  streets  several  lines  of 
cars  are  run,  dri\  en  by  electric  motors.  They  make  good 
speed,  are  easily  handled,  and  have  many  advantages  over 
the  cable  cars  run  in  San  Francisco.  The  poor  car-horse 
is  on  the  eve  of  emancipation,  and  there  seems  to  be  no 
excuse  for  his  further  employment  in  that  capacity.  The 
streets  —  roads,  they  are  called  —  are  lighted  with  electric 
lights. 

The  curious  old  custom  is  preserved  in  Victoria  of  firing 
a  warning  gun  at  nine  in  the  evening;  and  at  nine  thirty 
a  second  gun  is  fired,  when  all  the  public  lights  are  ex- 
tinguished and  the  streets  and  roads  are  in  darkness. 

Everything  mo\'es  slowly  here.  Business  is  done  in  a 
very  quiet  way,  and  the  shopkeeper's  life  seems  an  easy 
one.  There  is  no  push  or  drive,  and  no  advertising,  as  we 
see  it  in  our  home  cities.  No  attempt  is  made  to  push 
goods  in  the  shops  :  they  are  shown,  on  inquiry  the  price 
is  named,  and  you  buy  ov  not,  as  you  please ;  and  yet  a  vast 
business  is  done  in  this  quiet,  easy  way,  and  handsome 
profits  are  realized.  Business  does  not  begin  until  after 
nine  in  the   morning,  and   ends   at    four   in   the   afternoon. 


I  o      An   American   Cruiser   in   the   East 

The  hotels  are  excellent,  and  are  conducted  on  the  Eng- 
lish  plan. 

The  residents'  portion  of  the  citv  extends  over  hills  and 
valleys,  and  far  up  the  strait,  where,  surrounded  by  neat 
little  gardens  filled  with  beautiful  flowers  or  carefully 
kept  lawns,  stand  villas  and  cottages,  —  the  homes  of  the 
people.  The  roads  are  hard,  smooth,  and  admirably  cared 
for.  They  are  bordered  with  trim  hedges,  and  brightly 
painted  gates  open  from  them  into  little  gardens.  In  the 
quiet  summer  evenings,  the  air  is  laden  with  sweet  per- 
fumes  from   these  dainty  gardens  of  roses. 

The  houses  are  picturesque  and  varied,  and  of  a  com- 
posite order  of  architecture  that  is  convenient  and  attrac- 
tive. Many  of  the  houses  are  built  of  bricks  with  hand- 
some stone  trimmings,  while  a  larger  number  are  of 
wood,  painted  in  pleasing  tints  ;  and  all  have  an  air  of  quiet 
refinement  and  elegance.  The  climate  is  invigorating  and 
healthy.  The  summers  are  delightful,  and  the  winters  are 
comparatively  mild,  for  the  latitude.  The  city  contains 
about  twenty  thousand  inhabitants,  its  population  haxing 
doubled  in   the  last  three  years. 

We  drove  to  "  Beacon  Hill  "  to  see  the  magnificent  sun- 
set, and  sat  through  the  long  twilight,  which  lasts  about 
two  hours.  The  route  led  o\er  a  fine,  hard  road,  sur- 
rounded by  handsomely  hedged  gardens,  whose  delicious 
perfumes  filled  the  air  ;  and  the  elegant  houses  lent  their 
beauty  to  the  e\'er-changing  panorama,  as  we  wended  our 
way  up  among  the  hills.  Beacon  Hill  is  a  bare  knoll  of 
greensward,  with  a  flagstaff  from  which  the  British  jack  is 
thrown  to  the  breezes.  Prom  this  spot  a  most  magnificent 
view  is  obtained. 

In  the  valley  below  us  nestles  a  village  with  its  cluster  of 
gardens  and  bright  little  cottages.  We  see  the  coast-line, 
with  its  restless,  ever-lashing  sea  ;  and  beyond,  an  arm  of 
the  sea  studded  with  islands,  while  here  and  there  little  boats 


The   Start  1 1 

and  steamers  are  feelintj;  their  way  through  the  wiiuiiii": 
channels.  Yonder,  the  forest-covered  Olvmpics,  and  in 
the  tar-oft  distance  the  snow-capped  mountains  of  the 
Pacific   hold   up  their  heads   in   solemn  grandeur. 

As  the  "  da\-god  "  sank  into  the  bosom  of  "  Balboa's 
ocean,"  the  tints  changed  from  blue  to  silver,  to  gold,  to 
fiery  vermilion,  the  outlines  of  the  mountains  were  tipped 
with  old  rose,  and  finally  all  melted  into  one  streak  of  rosy 
red,  when  the  heavens  and  the  earth  seemed  to  meet  each 
other,  and  we  realized  that  it  was  night,  and  the  stars  were 
on  guard. 

The  guns  having  been  fired,  the  lights  were  extinguished, 
and  our  ride  back  to  the  hotel  was  dismal.  The  lonely 
watchman  threw  the  ravs  of  his  dark  lantern  upon  us, 
peered  at  us  through  the  darkness,  and  cried  out :  "  Ten 
—  o'  —  clock,  —  a  —  clear  —  bright  —  night  !  "  Then 
all  was  dark  and   still.  , 

At  Sea 

On  the  30th,  we  said  good-bye  to  our  new-made  friends 
and  made  another  start  for  Behring  Sea.  When  we  had 
cleared  the  land,  and  the  vessel's  course  was  set,  we  found 
ourselves  confronted  by  head  winds  and  seas  that  caused 
the  ship  to  pitch  and  roll  to  such  a  degree  as  to  make  life 
miserable.  On  the  night  of  the  3d,  the  wind  and  sea 
died  out,  and  the  4th  opened  with  almost  a  calm,  with  a 
smooth  sea  and  as  bright  a  sun  as  ever  shone.  The  boys 
had  not  sufficiently  recovered  from  their  second  attack  of 
sea-sickness  to  make  any  attempt  at  celebrating  the  day, 
and  the  "  glorious  Fourth  "  came  and  went  with  only  the 
"storm  flag"  flying. 

During  the  night  of  the  4th,  the  fair  weather  left  us, 
and  by  daylight  we  had  strong  head  winds  and  seas,  with 
cold,  gloomy  weather.  The  6th  brought  us  some  remark- 
able   weather, — a    cold    Scotch    mist    with    drizzly    rain. 


1 2       An   American    Cruiser   in   the   East 

Through  this  the  sun  would  shuie  brightlv  for  about  twenty 
minutes  ;  then  the  mist  would  shut  the  sun  out  for  about 
the  same  length  of  time,  —  and  so  it  went  on,  repeating  the 
order  for  the  whole  day.  The  next  day  brought  us  a 
heavy  sea  with  a  dense  fog.  The  ship,  having  been  light- 
ened up  considerably  by  the  use  of  stores,  rolled  very  deep, 
and  the  creaking  bulkheads  and  blowing  steam  whistle  were 
not  soothing  music  for  nerves  already  strained  in  endeavors 
to  penetrate  the  fog  and  discover  the  rocky  shore  ahead. 

Owing  to  the  flatness  of  the  earth  in  these  latitudes, 
there  are  chances  for  grave  errors  in  estimating  distances; 
and  the  fact  that  these  waters  have  never  been  carefully 
surveyed  and  charted,  makes  navigation  extremely  hazardous. 
After  leaving  Victoria,  our  only  visible  neighbors  were 
several  schools  of  whales  and  numerous  stray  seals. 

Early  on  the  morning  of  the  9th,  the  fog  having  cleared 
away,  the  peculiar  haze,  which  the  seaman  knows  to  be 
land,  was  discovered  ahead  of  us.  Keeping  on  our  course, 
we  were  soon  between  snowy  mountains,  whose  chilly 
winds  sent  cold  shivers  through  our  frames.  The  grandeur 
of  the  scenery  was  fascinating,  and  held  us  almost  spell- 
bound, in  spite  of  the  cold,  as  we  felt  our  way  through  the 
Onalga  pass,  which  leads  into  Behring  Sea.  On  one  side 
of  us  were  rugged,  snow-capped  mountains,  upon  whose 
rocky  sides  not  a  vestige  of  verdure  could  be  seen,  with 
here  and  there  mad  torrents  of  melted  snow  plunging 
into  the  sea  almost  at  our  feet ;  or  mountain  sides  of 
emerald  and  black,  up  to  the  snow-line,  from  whence  began 
their  covering  of  white.  On  the  port  hand  was  Mount 
"  Makooshin,"  5,500  feet  above  the  sea,  sending  forth 
ashes  and  smoke ;  on  the  starboard,  mighty  cone-shaped 
'' Shisaldin,"  towering  8,500  feet  towards  the  heavens,  with 
its  everlasting  mantle  of  snow,  the  mad  waters  of  ocean  and 
sea  dashing  themselves  against  its  rocky  base.  All  about 
us    were   islands    and  great    snow-capped   peaks,  which   we 


1  ne   ocarr  i  ^ 

passed  and  left  in  the  distance.  "  Priest  Rock  "  stood  out 
of  the  sea,  tall  and  slender,  in  cowl  and  gown,  and  "  Egg 
Island  "  and  "  Old  Man  "  were  passed  as  we  felt  our  way 
into  Behring  Sea.  An  interesting  native  village  about  six 
miles  away,  and  Beaver  Bay,  where  Captain  Cook  refitted 
his  little  fleet  in  1 778,  were  visible ;  and  by  five  in  the 
afternoon  we  moored  the  ship  in  the  outer  harbor  of  Iliuliuk, 
Unalaska. 


CHAPTER    II 

UNALASKA,    ALEUTIAN    ISLANDS 

Ice-built,  ice-bound,  and  ice-bounded. 

Such  cold  seas  of  silence !   such  room ! 
Such  snow-light!  such  sea-light  confounded 
With  thunders  that  smite  like  a  doom! 
Such  grandeur!   such  glory,  such  gloom! 
Hear  that  boom !  hear  that  deep,  distant  boom 
Of  an  avalanche  hurled 
Down  this  unfinished  world! 

Ice  seas  and  ice  summits!   ice  spaces, 

In  splendor  oi  white,  as  God's  throne! 
Ice  worlds  to  the  pole!  and  ice  places, 
Untracked  and  unnamed  and  unknown ! 
Hear  that  boom !      Hear  the  grinding,  the  groan 
Of  the  ice  gods  In  pain!      Hear  the  moan 
Of  yon  ice  mountain  hurled 
Down  this  unfinished  world ! 

JoAouiN  Miller. 

ILIULIUK  is  a  beautiful  harbor,  surrounded  by  snow- 
capped mountains  and  green  valleys.  Unalaska,  the 
settlement,  has  been  built  upon  a  natural  crescent  of  low 
hills  and  plains  on  the  southern  side  of  the  harbor,  and  con- 
sists of  a  Russian  church,  six  large  residences,  sixty  one-story 
wooden  shanties,  a  few  sod-houses,  two  storehouses,  and  a 
lot  of  sheds.  These  are  the  property  of  the  Alaska  Com- 
mercial Company,  whose  agent,  called  "  Prince  Paul  "  by 
the  natives,  manages  the  place,  under  the  observation  of 
some   of  our   own   officials. 


Unalaska,    Aleutian    Islands  15 

An  inner  harbor  is  formed  by  a  point  of  land  jutting  out 
from  the  shore,  opposite  the  middle  of  the  settlement. 
Near  by  is  a  third  harbor,  opening  into  the  main  one,  known 
as  Dutchman's  Bay,  around  whose  shores  a  rival  company 
is  erecting  storehouses  and  shanties  for  use  of  its  people 
in  future  operations.  At  the  foot  of  the  mountains,  be- 
hind the  settlement,  there  is  a  large  fresh-water  lake,  which 
is  formed  by  the  melted  snow  from  the  mountain's  side. 

"  Prince  Paul  "  came  on  board  to  pay  his  respects,  and 
to  invite  us  to  a  ball  which  was  to  be  gi\'en  in  the  palace 
that  evening  in  honor  of  our  arrival.  But  as  the  notice  was 
short,  and  as  we  had  not  been  sufficiently  long  beyond  the 
pale  of  civilization  to  indulge,  we  were  compelled  to  decline 
the  honor.  We  lunched  the  "  Prince  ;  "  and  when  he  had 
said  good-bye,  he  insisted  upon  returning  to  the  shore  in 
his  own  barge,  which,  bv  the  way,  was  managed  by  only 
one  man.  Soon  after  he  left  the  vessel,  a  local  breeze  and 
heavy  rain  came  howling  through  the  little  valley  ahead  of 
us.  The  whitecaps  soon  sprang  up  from  the  smooth  sur- 
face of  the  bay,  and  the  "  Prince's  "  man  Friday  could  not 
pull  against  the  wind  and  sea.  Their  barge  was  blown 
upon  the  beach  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  bay,  where,  in  a 
drenched  condition,  they  were  compelled  to  abandon  the 
boat  and  wade  through  swamp  and  mud  to  the  head  of  the 
spit :  here  thev  secured  another  boat  and  were  landed  near 
the  palace. 

The  principal  part  of  the  settlement  of  Unalaska  faces  a 
roadway,  which  extends  along  the  beach  for  about  two  miles 
from  the  inner  harbor  to  the  little  cemetery  on  the  hillock 
towards  the  sea.  In  this  little  cemetery  there  are  twoscore 
or  more  quaint  graves  marked  with  the  double  cross,  and 
heavily  fenced  in  to  protect  the  inmates  from  the  raids  of 
hungry   wild  beasts. 

The  islands  are  of  volcanic  origin.  Immense  rocks  have 
been  thrown   up  from   the  bottom  of  the  sea  in   some  past 


1 6      An  American   Cruiser  in  the  East 

age,  and  a  thin  layer  of  soil  has  been  deposited  upon  them. 
The  tops  of  the  hills  and  mountains  are  covered  with  snow, 
and  there  is  nearly  alwavs  an  icy  breeze  blowing  from  the 
mountains,  a  drizzly  rain,  or  a  fog.  Efforts  have  been 
made  to  cultivate  the  soil.  In  well-sheltered  places  the 
experiments  have  been  partially  successful,  but  not  very 
encouraging.  There  is  not  a  tree  or  a  bush  in  the  neigh- 
borhood. A  tall,  rank  grass  grows  in  sheltered  places, 
where  a  few  cattle  are  pastured  until  killing  time. 

A  great  variety  of  small  wild  flowers,  including  violets 
and  heliotrope,  grow  about  the  sheltered  valleys.  I  found 
more  than  one  hundred  specimens,  which  I  pressed  and 
sent  to  the  President  of  the  Woman's  College  of  Baltimore. 
A  line  scarlet  berry,  which  the  natives  call  the  "salmon 
berry,"  as  large  as  a  cultivated  blackberry,  and  of  delicious 
flavor,  grows  abundantly  in  sunshiny  places,  where  it  has 
protection   from   the   cold   winds. 

Unalaska  is  the  huntsman's  paradise,  whether  with  rod  or 
gun.  There  is  no  end  to  the  sport.  It  is  just  bevond 
civilization,  or  rather  just  on  its  border.  There  are  no 
hotels  and  no  boarding-places,  and  one  must  rough  it  all 
the  time.  The  "  globe-trotter "  and  the  tourist  have  not 
penetrated  its  boundaries,  climbed  its  hills,  nor  drank  its 
sparkling  waters ;  neither  has  the  hotel  clerk's  headlight 
flashed  along  its  beach.  There  are  many  fine  sites  for 
hotels,  huts,  or  tents,  and  the  hills  are  filled  with  brown  and 
green  stones,  that  are  almost  prepared  for  buildings. 

It  is  delightful  to  live  the  summer  through  in  such  free- 
dom. So  close  to  nature  !  All  is  so  peacefully  quiet,  and 
the  musical,  silvery  chimes  from  the  old  church  belfry  are 
only  disturbed  by  the  dashing  of  the  surf  upon  the  rocks,  or 
the  howling  winds  that  come  tearing  like  mad  from  the 
mountain-tops. 

Wolves,  deer,  and  foxes  abound  on  the  islands.  Ptarmi- 
gan are  plenty,  and   ducks  and  geese   frequent  the  waters 


Unalaska,   Aleutian   Islands  17 

from  September  to  May.  The  waters  fairly  teem  with 
whales,  sea-lions,  seals,  cod,  salmon,  halibut,  flounders,  and 
herring.  Gamy  trout  give  sport  in  the  streams,  while  fine 
oysters  and  clams  are  abundant. 

The  principal  occupation  of  the  inhabitants  is  hunting 
and  fishing.  They  build  small  canoes  ("  kialcs  ")  of  the  raw 
hide  of  sea  animals,  which  they  sew  over  a  light  framework 
of  wood.  These  they  deck  over,  leaving  an  opening  large 
enough  to  get  their  legs  through.  Their  hunting  and  fish- 
ing garments  are  made  of  the  entrails  of  sea-lions  or  other 
large  animals ;  consequently,  they  are  waterproof.  These 
garments  are  called  "  kamlika."  After  taking  his  seat  in 
the  "  kiak,"  the  native  securely  fastens  the  skirt  of  his 
"kamlika"  to  the  rim  of  the  deck  opening,  or  hatch- 
combing,  and  with  the  hood  of  the  "  kamlika "  secured 
about  his  head,  he  is  prepared  to  encounter  any  sea,  as, 
with  the  exception  of  face  and  hands,  he  never  becomes 
wet.  The  paddles  used  in  these  "  kiaks "  are  double- 
ended,  with  broad  blades,  and  are  made  of  such  wood  as 
can  be  procured  from  whaling  vessels  of  the  Trading 
Company. 

The  melted  snow  from  the  mountains  behind  the  settle- 
ment is  collected  in  a  little  reservoir,  which  has  been  ter- 
raced into  the  mountain,  from  whence  it  trickles  down  the 
hillside  into  a  fresh-water  basin. 

Down  upon  the  beach,  among  the  rocks,  pebbles,  and 
shells,  a  noisy  family  party,  assisted  by  neighbors,  were 
preparing  hundreds  of  fine  salmon  for  the  winter's  food 
supply.  A  right  merry  crowd  of  merry-makers  they  were, 
and  the  occasion  might  be  called  an  Aleute  harvest.  The 
older  members  of  the  party  cut  the  great  fish  down  the 
back,  removed  the  entrails,  and  passed  them  on  to  the 
youngsters,  —  little  "  tackers,"  whose  ages,  perhaps,  ranged 
from  four  to  ten  years.  They  chopped  off  the  heads  and  car- 
ried the  bodies  of  the  fish  to  the  rear  of  the  "  home,"  where 


1 8      An  American   Cruiser  in   the  East 

they  were  thrown  upon  the  ground  in  a  heap  until  some 
old  women  strung  them  over  great  ridgepoles  to  dry.  The 
fish  were  placed  high  enough  to  be  out  of  reach  of  any 
wild  animals  that  might  be  forced  into  the  settlement  in 
search  of  food.  They  were  neither  washed,  salted,  nor 
covered.  There  was  no  other  preparation  than  I  have 
noted.  Many  of  these  fine  salmon  would  weigh  twenty  or 
thirty  pounds  apiece,  and  the  cod,  in  these  waters,  are  just 
as  heavy. 

During  the  long  winter  season,  the  men  devote  their 
time  to  repairing  boats  and  seines,  making  lines  and  spears, 
and  lounging.  Many  of  them,  when  they  can  obtain 
molasses  or  sugar,  distil  it  into  "  hoocheno,"  a  fiery  rum, 
which  they  frequently  use  to  excess.  To  prevent  this,  the 
agents  are  particular  to  sell  these  articles  in  very  limited 
quantities;  but  it  is  surprising  to  see  the  devices  of  the 
natives  to  obtain   the  fiery  beverage. 

Their  women  devote  the  long  hours  of  winter  to  making 
baskets,  mats,  and  many  other  curious  ornaments  from 
finely  split  grasses,  with  which  they  weave  gay-colored 
wools  and  silks.  They  also  make  odd  trinkets  from  dried 
skins,  and  ornament  them  with  fancy  colors.  The  sum- 
mer nights  are  nearly  as  light  as  the  day,  I  could  read  a 
newspaper  on  deck  until  eleven  at  night,  afterwards  a 
deeper  twilight  lasted  until  about  two  in  the  morning,  when 
again  the  paper  could  be  read  without  the  assistance  of 
artificial  light. 

The  Aleutian  Islands  number  about  one  hundred  and 
fifty,  and  belong  to  the  United  States,  being  a  part  of 
Alaska.  They  form  a  chain  which  extends  from  the  west 
coast  of  America  to  a  point  within  eight  hundred  miles  of 
Asia.  They  lie  in  about  55  degrees  of  north  latitude,  and 
separate  Behring  Sea  from  the  Pacific  Ocean.  They  are 
naturally  divided  into  five  groups,  are  of  volcanic  forma- 
tion, and   show   evidences   of  earthquakes   on   every   hand. 


Unalaska,   Aleutian   Islands  19 

The  smoke  of  several  volcanoes  can  be  seen  at  great 
distances  on   clear  days. 

The  whole  number  of  inhabitants  on  all  the  islands  is 
about  fifteen  hundred,  who,  from  their  circumstances  and 
surroundings,  are  compelled  to  live  in  a  shiftless  condition, 
and  lead  miserable  lives.  They  are  poor  stunted  Indians, 
who  gather  salmon  and  cod  in  the  summer  for  the  winter's 
supply  of  food.  They  live  in  caves  and  holes  in  the 
ground,  or  in  huts  made  by  piling  rows  of  sods  upon  each 
other,  over  which  they  thatch  a  roof,  and  fasten  the  skin  of 
some  animal  to  a  lintel  to  serve  as  a  door,  unless  they  are 
so  fortunate  as  to  obtain  some  old  boards  for  the  purpose. 
They  dress  in  skins  of  animals,  or  in  "  store-clothes,"  which 
thev  receive  in  trade  for  the  skins  they  have  captured. 
They  live  on  in  this  way  until  they  are  put  into  another 
hole  in  the  ground,  where  they  will  remain  until  the  last 
trumpet  shall  sound. 

In  the  settlements,  the  Aleute  has  undergone  a  great 
change  since  he  made  his  first  bow  to  the  Russian  in  the 
seventeenth  century.  His  condition  is  not  much  improved, 
although  he  has  changed  his  language,  religion,  and  dress. 
His  main  reliance  is  still  upon  his  fish,  which  he  captures  at 
the  old  place,  and  in  the  same  old  way.  He  has  learned 
the  use  of  civilized  goods,  and  rather  enjoys  them.  Canned 
goods  and  rum  are  two  of  his  chief  delights.  He  still  lives 
in  his  cave,  or  hut,  which  he  would  gladly  exchange  for  a 
comfortable  Japanese  cottage,  with  its  charcoal  fire  and 
kerosene  light,  and  he  would  have  no  prejudice  against 
changing  his  garb  for  "  store-clothes."  He  is  the  true  son 
of  his  ancestors,  and  inherits  many  of  their  qualities.  He 
is  a  member  of  the  Russian  Church,  and  can  read  and  write 
the  Russian  language,  which  he  has  been  taught  by  the 
priests.  He  is  dependent  upon  the  Trading  Company  for 
his  living,  being  paid  for  the  skins  he  captures,  and  for  the 
work  he  does  about  the  warehouses. 


20      An  American   Cruiser  in   the  East 

It  was  curious  to  see  a  coal  vessel  unloaded  by  women 
and  girls,  who  carried  great  baskets  filled  with  coal  from 
the  vessel  to  the  coal  sheds. 

In  the  centre  of  the  settlement  there  is  a  neat  little 
Russian  church,  which  is  noted  for  its  beautiful  silvery 
chimes,  and  its  fine  pictures.  Several  of  these  are  truly 
works  of  art,  and  it  is  surprising  that  they  are  in  this  out-of- 
the-way  place.  A  painting  of  the  "  Last  Supper,"  which 
hangs  behind  the  altar,  is  particularly  fine,  both  in  its  group- 
ing and  colors.  A  picture  of  the  "  Madonna  and  Infant,'* 
on  the  left  of  the  altar,  is  also  fine,  and  there  are  several  in 
miniature  that  are  excellent.  The  solid  silver  altar  service 
is   artistic   and  massive. 

On  the  right  of  the  entrance  to  the  church  there  is  a 
solitary  grave  marked  "  Nestor,  a  Bishop  of  these  Islands." 
The  monument  states  that  at  one  time  "  Nestor  had  been  a 
Lieutenant  in  the  Imperial  Russian  Navy,  and  in  civil  life 
a  Baron ; "  the  monument  fails  to  narrate  the  romance 
which  caused  the  change  in  the  man's  career,  and  brought 
him  from  the  gay  scenes  of  St.  Petersburg  to  these  bleak 
rocks  beyond  Siberia ;  but  here  he  sleeps  under  the  shadow 
of  his  little  church,  where  the  silence  is  only  broken  by  the 
chimes  of  the  silvery  bells. 

A  stroll  along  the  beach  from  the  boat-landing  to  the 
cemetery,  about  four  in  the  afternoon,  is  very  interesting. 
The  fashionables  of  Unalaska  are  out  for  an  airing ;  to  see 
and  to  be  seen.  The  ladies  of  the  station  are  dressed  in 
fur  or  velvet  cloaks,  gay-colored  skirts,  and  headgear  that 
rivals  the  rainbow's  colors ;  together  with  their  escorts,  in 
neatest  outfits  of  the  San  Francisco  tailor.  The  reverend 
priest,  in  black  gown,  with  bared  head  and  stooping  form, 
has  a  cheering  smile  and  a  kindly  greeting  for  all.  He 
strokes  the  heads  of  the  little  ones,  and  imprints  a  kiss  of 
love  and  peace  upon  the  rosy  cheek  of  the  babe.  All 
reverence  the  good    father,  and  bow  low  to  him  in   passing. 


Unalaska,   Aleutian   Islands  2 1 

The  ladies  of  the  "  Alcute  Colony  "  are  on  the  promenade 
in  gowns  of  quiet  colors,  with  wraps  as  bright  as  their  own 
sunny  smile,  their  hair  parted  in  the  middle  and  carcfulh- 
made  into  "  Psyche  "  knots. 

The  half-breeds,  like  the  Creoles  in  southern  climes,  have 
forms  and  features  of  surpassing  loveliness  and  great,  flash- 
ing black  eves.  They  dress  in  the  blackest  products  of 
the  loom,  and  have  cloaks  of  the  sea-otter  for  handy  use  in 
the  chilly  breezes.  They  daintily  pick  their  way  over  the 
pebbly  walk  that  ends  in  the  little  valley  beyond  the  ceme- 
tery, where  the  beautiful  wild  flowers  may  be  had  for  the 
gathering.  The  population  of  the  settlement  is  about  four 
hundred,  of  whom  one  hundred  are  whites,  and  three  hun- 
dred are  Aleutes  and  half-breeds. 

Every  day,  after  our  arrival,  we  enjoyed  fine  cod  and 
salmon,  some  weighing  as  much  as  twenty-five  pounds. 
The  trout,  ptarmigan,  oysters,  and  clams  were  very  fine 
and  of  delicious  flavor.  Cod  or  salmon,  boiled  and  sea- 
soned with  drawn  butter,  a  dash  of  salt,  pepper  and  Wor- 
cestershire, with  a  steamed  potato,  as  entree^  and  a  half-pint 
of  Sauterne,  is  very  appetizing  after  a  climb  over  the  hills 
or  a  stroll  along  the  beach. 

Prospectors  are  continually  rapping,  sounding,  and  "  divin- 
ing "  about  these  islands  and  hills  on  the  mainland.  We 
could  not  go  anywhere  without  meeting  their  eager,  anxious, 
speculative  faces.  Why  not  leave  these  islands  as  spots  in 
which  to  hunt  and  angle,  haul  the  seine,  or  tong  the  oyster 
and  clam  that  wait  to  be  lifted  out  of  the  water  ? 

Every  two  or  three  days,  and  sometimes  every  afternoon, 
a  gale  is  loosened  in  the  icy  mountain-tops  among  the  snow, 
and  sweeps  down  upon  us  in  all  its  fury.  The  cables  be- 
come taut,  an  ugly  chopped  sea  is  raised,  and  cold  chills 
are  sent  through  our  frames,  the  only  relief  being  found 
within  our  little  rooms  near  the  heaters.  Sometimes  the 
days  are   beautiful,  when   the  sun   shines  brightly  and  there 


2  2      An  American   Cruiser  in  the  East 

is  just   a  "  baby-breeze,"  when  greatcoats  and   storm-caps 
are  comfortable. 

Such  we  have  found  the  Aleutian  Islands,  their  people 
and  climate,  after-  spending  many  "  summer  days  "  in  the 
full  enjoyment  of  the  good  things  nature  has  so  bountifully 
supplied.  But  it  must  be  remembered  that  the  Aleutian 
Islands  are  only  a  small  portion  of  our  territory  in  this  great 
northwest.  Alaska,  of  which  they  are  a  portion,  is  an 
immense  territory,  about  one  fourth  the  size  of  the  entire 
United  States.  From  it  twenty  States,  each  as  large  as  any 
of  the  older  States  of  our  Union,  could  be  formed.  The 
distance  from  Eastport,  Maine,  to  Attau,  the  most  western 
island  of  the  Aleutian  group,  spans  about  one  third  around 
the  globe.  Alaska  is  very  rich  in  minerals  and  coal,  and 
its  fishing  interests  are  immense.  Its  grass  lands  could 
supply  cattle  for  the  world,  and  it  is  believed  that  the 
hardier  cereals,  fruits,  and  vegetables  would  flourish,  if 
cultivated  in   its   sheltered  places. 

On  the  afternoon  of  the  30th  of  July  one  of  our  quar- 
termasters—  Thompson — was  killed  in  going  from  the 
coal  bark  to  the  shore.  He  had  been  visiting  a  party  of 
friends  on  the  vessel,  which,  nearly  emptied  of  its  coal,  was 
high  out  of  water,  and  the  gang-plank  was  very  steep. 
When  Thompson  reached  the  rail,  he  missed  his  footing 
and  fell,  striking  his  head  against  a  large  beam  of  wood 
placed  in  the  water  to  keep  the  vessel  from  the  wharf. 
When  the  man  was  picked  up  by  the  horror-stricken 
people  about  the  wharf,  life  was  extinct.  The  body  was 
taken  on  board  our  ship  and  prepared  for  burial.  All  night 
long  his  messmates  guarded  the  remains,  and  on  the  after- 
noon of  the  next  day  a  funeral  party  from  our  vessel  and 
other  ships  in  port  went  on  shore  to  bury  the  dead. 

The  music,  his  messmates,  and  then  the  body,  in  a  neat 
box  covered  by  the  "  Union  Jack,"  were  followed  by  the 
Marine  Guard  and  Blue  Jackets,  men  from  our  other  vessels 


Unalaska,   Aleutian   Islands  23 

and  many  from  the  British  war-vessels  which  were  there  to 
assist  us  in  patrolling  the  sea.  The  "  Third  Watch  "  acted 
as  chaplain  as  well  as  commander  of  the  funeral  party. 
After  these  came  the  British  and  our  own  officers,  in 
reverse  order  of  their  rank.  Slowly  the  cortege  moved 
along  the  beach  to  the  tump,  tump,  tump,  of  the  muffled 
drums,  or  the  mournful  strains  of  the  funeral  march. 
Nearly  all  the  inhabitants  of  the  settlement  stood  un- 
covered in  the  drizzling  rain  as  the  procession  moved  by, 
and  then  accompanied  it  to  the  cemetery.  Having  arrived 
at  the  grave,  all  uncovered,  and  the  "  Third  Watch  "  read 
the  solemn  service  for  the  dead,  when  all  that  was  mortal 
of  our  late  shipmate  was  tenderly  lowered  into  his  last  rest- 
ing-place, that  had  been  prepared  by  his  messmates  on  the 
edge  of  the  little  cemetery. 

As  Thompson  had  not  been  a  Catholic,  the  priest  could 
not  officiate,  neither  could  his  remains  be  buried  in  conse- 
crated ground  ;  but  who  can  say  that  no  drop  of  water  or  ray 
of  sunshine  from  the  heavens  has  consecrated  the  ground 

"  Where,  wrapped  in  his  tarpaulin  jacket, 
A  poor  sailor  lies  low  "  ? 

Thompson  had  served  long  and  faithfully.  He  was  a  good 
man  and  an  excellent  sailor. 


CHAPTER    III 

CRUISING    IN     BEHRING     SEA 

WE  cruised  about  Behring  Sea  for  thirty  days,  guard- 
ing the  passes,  hunting  for  illegal  sealers,  and 
going  into  port  only  to  replenish  our  coal.  We  found  the 
work  very  disagreeable,  both  on  account  of  the  reduced 
temperature  and  the  weather.  Fogs,  with  Scotch  mists  or 
drizzly  rains,  were  not  conducive  to  happiness  ;  and  if  we 
were  so  fortunate  as  to  have  an  exceptionally  sunshiny  day, 
the  fog  had  a  disagreeable  way  of  working  in  between  us 
and  "Old  Sol,"  making  it  very  annoying  for  those  who  were 
responsible  for  the  navigation  of  the  vessel.  The  steam- 
whistle  could  not  be  used,  as  it  would  betray  our  position, 
so  we  kept  the  lead  going  to  ascertain  the  depth  of  water, 
and  kept  sharp  lookout  about  us,  slowing  the  engines. 

On  the  15th,  we  overhauled  a  schooner  which  proved 
to  be  all  right.  On  the  i6th,  the  weather  being  thick,  we 
sighted  a  schooner  which  "took  to  her  heels."  Her  people 
crowded  on  all  sail  in  the  effort  to  get  away  from  us. 
Every  few  minutes  the  weather  cleared  a  little,  then  the  fog 
settled  down  thick,  so  that  we  were  unable  to  see  as  far  as 
the  length  of  our  own  vessel.  We  were  gaining  on  the 
schooner,  but  slowly,  and  the  chase  was  becoming  exciting. 
In  one  of  the  thick  spells,  the  schooner's  course  was 
altered,  in  the  hope  that  we  would  keep  on  our  course  and 
run  by  her,  while  she  would  be  making  "  to  the  good  "  on 
the  new  course,  and  thus  elude  us.  Our  "  Skipper"  antici- 
pated the  move  or  "  chanced  it,"  and  the  schooner's  people 


Cruising   in   Behring   Sea  25 

were  very  much  astonished,  when  the  fog  lifted  again,  to  Hnd 
us  almost  running  over  her.  She  proved  to  be  engaged  in 
the  contraband  work,  and  her  master  was  warned  to  take 
her  out  of  the  sea. 


Our  vessels  cruise  at  a  great  disad\'antage  in  these  waters. 
The  sealers  and  whalers  are  accustomed  to  keep  a  sharp 
lookout,  day  and  night,  at  their  vessels'  mastheads  for 
seals,  whales,  and  other  game  ;  and  as  their  profits  mainly 
depend  upon  it,  thev  become  very  expert  at  the  work. 
While  they  are  watching  for  game  they  also  keep  a  look- 
out for  the  tall  masts,  smoke-pipes,  and  the  long  line  of 
black  smoke  which  betrays  our  position.  At  the  same  time, 
their  shorter  masts  and  smaller  hulls  are  a  protection  to 
them ;  so  it  is  only  by  chance  that  we  are  able  to  see 
them  through  the  fog  and  mist. 

Later  we  anchored  for  about  an  hour,  and  gave  all  hands 
an  opportunity  to  catch  some  fish.  Some  magnificent  cod 
were  hauled  in,  about  a  yard  long,  and  weighing  from  thirty 
to  thirty-five  pounds  apiece,  while  scores  were  taken  that 
averaged  more  than  twentv-five  pounds.  Some  lines  had  two 
and  three  of  these  struggling  beauties  when  they  neared  the 
surface,  and  assistance  was  necessary  to  land  them  safely. 

On  the  1 6th,  we  sighted  the  island  of  St.  George,  on  its 
eastern  side,  and  ran  close  in  to  see  if  any  unauthorized 
vessels  were  loitering  in  the  neighborhood.  This  side 
presents  to  the  sea  a  bold,  rocky  bluff,  about  three  hundred 
feet  high,  and  almost  perpendicular.  Millions  of  birds  were 
flying  from  its  top  towards  the  mainland,  and  the  sickly 
sunshine  was  darkened  to  twilight  by  their  passing  between 
sky  and  sea.  Hundreds  of  "killer"  whales  were  sporting 
in  the  sea,  rolling  and  blowing ;  but  they  are  not  attractive 
to  the  hunter,  and  seem  to  have  been  created  for  the  sole 
purpose  of  thinning  out  the  smaller  fish  which  abound  in 
these  waters.      We  headed  about  and  stood  to  the  north- 


26      An   American   Cruiser  in   the  East 

ward,  going  at  a  very  slow  rate  of  speed,  but  with  every- 
thing in  readiness  to  "  crowd  on  "  in  case  of  necessity. 

After  a  week's  cruising  in  dense  fog,  chasing  schooners, 
with  scarcely  a  ray  of  sunshine  to  gladden  our  hearts,  or  to 
assist  us  in  determining  our  position,  we  felt  our  way  in 
under  the  lee  of  St.  Paul  Island,  and  anchored  on  the  night 
of  July  21.  The  stillness  was  broken  bv  the  rolling  and 
dashino;  of  the  surf  and  the  almost  human  cries  of  the  seals. 
All  night  long  these  nervous,  restless  creatures  kept  up  a 
chatter  and  din  that  made  the  night  hideous.  The  next 
morning,  Sunday,  we  steamed  around  to  the  village,  where 
we  found  the  "  iMohican  "  and  the  "  Thetis,"  the  "  Bear  " 
and  the  "  Corwin,"  H.  B.  M.  S.  "  Nymphe "  and 
"  Pheasant,"  and  the  mail  steamer  "  Farallon." 

After  devoting  the  remaining  portion  of  the  forenoon  to 
official  calls  and  the  functions  incident  to  the  day,  and  hav- 
ing partaken  of  a  "  sea  luncheon,"  a  party  of  us  started  in 
the  gig  for  the  shore  to  see  the  island,  particularly  the  seal 
rookeries,  and  the  hauling  and  killing  grounds.  As  we 
approached  the  shore,  we  found  many  hidden  dangers  from 
rocks  close  under  the  surface  of  the  sea,  over  which  our 
boat  bumped  and  grated,  much  to  the  discomfort  of  all  hands  ; 
but  by  poling  here,  pushing  there,  and  an  occasional  pull  on 
the  oars,  we  succeeded  in  getting  the  boat  safely  through  the 
surf,  and  landed  on  the  rocks  at  the  foot  of  the  village  road. 
After  "pulling  ourselves  together"  and  making  a  hasty  sur- 
vey of  the  surrounding  countrv,  we  dismissed  our  boat  to 
the  ship,  and  started  for  the  north  beach,  or  rookeries,  from 
which  the  sounds  that  we  had  enjoved  (?)  the  night  before 
had  proceeded.  Leaving  the  village  for  future  inspection, 
we  started  over  the  hills,  which  are  covered  with  soft, 
fibrous  turf,  from  which  a  rank  grass  has  grown,  amid  which 
there  is  neither  path  nor  road.  In  a  rain  that  had  lasted 
perhaps  since  the  last  winter,  we  trudged  along  over  the  un- 
certain, slippery  ground.      So  uncertain  was  the  footing  that 


Cruising  in   Behring  Sea  27 

at  almost  every  step  great  exertion  was  required  to  hold  the 
position  we  had  gained,  or  to  make  any  progress  toward  our 
destination  ;  but  this,  like  all  other  things,  must  have  an 
end,  and  after  a  couple  of  miles  of  such  travel,  with  much 
puffing  and  blowing,  and  some  very  poor  attempts  at  pleas- 
antry, we  finally  reached  the  rookeries,  and  beheld  the 
celebrated  amphibious  animal  in  all   its  glorv. 

The  beach,  or  rookery,  which  we  visited  extends  for 
about  a  mile  and  a  half  along  the  seashore,  and  gradually 
slopes  up  from  the  sea  for  about  sixtv  feet  to  a  point  where 
the  rocks  are  covered  with  soil,  whither  the  seals  never  go. 
The  beach  is  formed  of  hard  rock,  worn  smooth  by  the  rise 
and  fall  of  the  sea,  and  bv  the  friction  of  the  seals  moving 
about  upon  it.  Rising  from  this  smooth  surface,  at  inter- 
vals more  or  less  great,  are  shelving  rocks,  or  seal's  pillows, 
—  natural  formations,  which  vary  in  size  and  shape,  some 
of  them  being  only  a  few  inches  in  height  and  area,  while 
others   are  several   feet  high. 

The  male  seal  measures  about  six  feet  in  length,  and 
weighs  about  five  hundred  pounds.  Its  head  is  very  small 
in  comparison  with  the  size  of  its  body,  and  its  eyes  are 
bluish,  changing  to  hazel.  It  has  a  long  yellowish-gray 
mustache,  and  sits  verv  nearly  erect.  The  female  seal  is 
about  four  feet  in  length,  much  more  shapely  than  the  male, 
and  has  a  handsome  head,  eve,  and  body,  and  an  expression 
of  much  intelligence.  The  young  seals,  or  "  pups,"  are 
awkward,  ungainly  little  animals,  of  a  black  color,  with  large 
heads  and  small  eyes,  and  of  not  much  intelligence.  They 
huddle  together  in  groups,  and  spend  the  first  weeks  of  life 
apparently  in  wondering  why  they  were  born,  and  if  life  is 
worth  living. 

The  hunting  season  is  in  the  months  of  June  and  July. 
There  is  nothing  novel  or  exciting  about  it,  it  being  rather 
a  piece  of  cold-blooded  butchery.  The  seals  are  singled 
out  and  driven  like  domestic  animals. 


28       An  American   Cruiser  in  the  East 

The  Pribyloff  Islands  (St,  Paul  and  St.  George)  and  the 
Commander  Islands  (Behring  and  Copper),  having  clean, 
shelving,  rocky  beaches,  free  from  mud  and  sand,  are  pecu- 
liarly adapted  to  the  habits  ani  comfort  of  the  seals  during 
the  breeding  season.  Here  they  live  from  May  to  October 
in   perfect   peace  and  security. 

The  business  of  hunting  the  seals,  curing  the  skins,  and 
trading  with  the  islands  has,  for  the  past  twenty-five  years, 
been  a  monopoly  of  the  Alaska  Commercial  Company  of 
San  Francisco,  which  has  made  a  point  of  protecting  the 
seals  required  for  breeding  purposes,  but  has  not  enjoyed 
its  franchises  undisputed.  Many  vessels  have  been  fitted 
out  each  year,  both  in  our  own  country  and  in  Canada,  to 
prey  upon  the  seals  when  they  leave  the  rookeries.  It  is 
claimed  that  these  poachers  have  wantonly  frightened  and 
destroyed  the  seals  in  great  numbers  by  the  use  of  fire-arms  ; 
and  it  is  also  said  that  the  crews  of  such  vessels  have  raided 
the  rookeries,  and  have  even  gone  so  far  as  to  raid  the  salt- 
houses  and  carry  off  the  skins,  under  cover  of  darkness  and 
fog. 

After  gathering  some  specimens  of  beautiful  wild  flowers 
and  coarse  grasses,  we  retraced  our  steps  to  the  village 
landing,  where  we  found  a  motley  crowd  of  young  natives 
who  were  curious  to  see  the  strangers.  We  were  soon  in 
our  boat  again,  and  after  having  experiences  similar  to 
those  on  our  way  to  the  shore,  we  reached  the  vessel,  thor- 
oughly tired  out  and  wet,  but  well  repaid,  we  thought,  for 
the  trouble  it  had  cost  us  to  see  the  seals  and  rookeries. 

The  next  morning  we  sailed  from  St.  Paul,  heading  to- 
wards St.  George  and  Unalaska,  going  very  slowly  and 
keeping  a  bright  lookout  for  our  friends,  the  poachers. 
We  arrived  at  St.  George  Island  on  the  morning  of  July 
23,  and  were  soon  headed  for  the  rookeries  to  see  our  other 
dear  friends,  the  seals.  St.  George  lies  to  the  southward  of 
St.  Paul,  and   has  less  than  half  its  area.      The  approaches 


Cruising  in   Behring  Sea  29 

and  the  landing  are  in  better  condition  than  those  at  St. 
Paul.  The  extent  of  the  rookeries  is  about  one  sixth  as 
great  as  those  at  the  main  island.  There  are  about  one 
hundred  inhabitants  on  the  island,  —  Americans,  Russians, 
Aleutes,  and  half-breeds,  —  whose  occupations  are  all  con- 
nected with  the  seals  or  the  government  of  the  islands. 

We  were  greatly  interested  in  the  efforts  that  a  gentle- 
man was  making  here  to  instruct  some  of  the  native  boys 
in  the  art  of  working  the  bones  and  teeth  of  the  seal  into 
ornaments  and  other  articles  of  commercial  value.  Both 
this  island  and  St.  Paul  are  strewn  with  bones  and  teeth  of 
whales  and  seals,  and  they  appear  to  be  useless.  Thev  are, 
however,  susceptible  of  manipulation,  and  mav  be  given 
a  fine  polish.  I  have  seen  beautiful  articles  manufactured 
from  them,  such  as  buttons,  card-cases,  paper-cutters,  etc. 
Such  training  and  employment  will  be  of  great  benefit  to 
the  natives,  as  it  will  broaden  their  contracted  range  of 
winter  employments. 

At  the  landing  we  saw  about  twenty  voung  Aleutes  and 
half-breeds  lounging  about  to  see  the  arrivals.  They  ranged 
from  twelve  to  twenty  years  of  age,  and  were  resplendent  in 
store-clothes,  most  of  which  were  too  large  for  the  wearers, 
and  were  "  baggv  "  upon  them.  Each  one  of  the  natives 
had  a  heavy  watch-chain  across  the  front  of  his  waistcoat, 
loud  neckgear,  pins,  and  finger-rings,  which  they  took  a  great 
deal  of  trouble  to  displav.  They  were  veritable  know- 
nothings,  for  we  could  not  get  an  intelligent  answer  to  any 
of  our  questions,  though  we  afterwards  learned  that  the 
under-employes  of  the  Company  are  not  permitted  to  an- 
swer the  questions  of  strangers. 

The  seals  were  chattering  to  themselves,  and  the  little 
settlement  was  before  us  ;  so  we  concluded  to  do  our  own 
piloting,  and  struck  out  on  our  own  account.  The  forma- 
tion and  soil  of  this  island  is  about  the  same  as  at  St.  Paul, 
except  on  the  eastern  side,  where  a  great  elevated   plateau. 


30      An  American   Cruiser  in   the  East 

about  three  hundred  feet  high  and  almost  perpendicular  on 
the  eastern  sea-front,  gradually  slopes  inland,  and  is  lost  in 
what  may  be  called  the  general  level  of  the  island  on  all 
other  sides.  The  settlement  contains  a  little  Russian 
church,  with  musical  chimes  and  a  beautiful  white  Virgin 
and  Infant,  and  a  schoolhouse,  where  the  children  are  taught 
the  catechism,  the  creed,  and  the  elements  of  a  secular 
education.  Its  fifty  houses  are  built  of  wood,  with  no 
attempt  at  ornamentation,  but  all  had  an  air  of  comfort, 
and  some  were   elegant   in  their  furnishings. 

Leaving  the  village  behind  us,  we  started  off  for  the 
beach  and  rookeries,  guided  by  the  well-known  chatter  of 
the  seals.  After  a  hard  tramp  we  approached  the  rook- 
eries, where  all  before  us,  as  far  as  the  eve  could  reach, 
spread  a  dark-coated,  restless,  chattering  mass,  —  like  a 
crouching  army,  ready  to  dash  upon  an  enemy's  lines. 
The  beaches  on  all  sides,  except  the  east,  are  similar  to 
those  at  St.  Paul,  and  are  well  suited  to  the  habits  of  the 
seals. 

Hundreds  of  little  groups  of  these  interesting  creatures 
were  huddled  together.  These  were  the  "  harems,"  or 
families,  and  near  by  the  "  pups  "  were  cared  for  by  the 
rough  old  males,  or  "  bulls."  Over  yonder,  thousands  of 
unmated  "bachelor"  seals  were  assembled  in  large  parties 
bemoaning  their  fate,  while  thousands  more  were  disport- 
ing among  the  breakers  in  the  surf.  Amono-  all  these 
thousands  of  restless,  nervous  seals,  the  rights  of  each 
seemed  to  be  respected.  Occasionally,  a  dissatisfied  female 
would  start  off"  with  the  intention  of  deserting  her  lord,  but 
a  few  roaring  howls,  and  a  savage  bite  on  the  neck,  would 
cause  her  ladyship  to  return  to  her  allegiance  in  short 
order. 

The  "bachelors"  spend  their  time  in  lamenting  their 
fate,  and  they  are  the  first  victims  of  the  conscientious 
hunter's  blow  and  knife.      The    seals   begin   to    leave    the 


Cruising   in   Behring  Sea  31 

rookeries  about  the  middle  of  July,  and  these  are  ciitirelv 
deserted  by  the  middle  of  September,  when  the  young  JKue 
learned  to  take  care  of  themselves. 

The  study  of  the  movements  and  sports  of  these  interest- 
ing creatures  was  both  instructive  and  entertainin<r.  From 
what  we  have  seen,  there  can  be  little  doubt  that  the  man 
who  originally  reported  a  mermaid  had  seen  a  female  seal 
sporting  in  the  sea.  Their  heads  and  bodies  are  shapely 
(almost  human  in  form),  and  their  arms  are  handsome  to 
the  elbows,  from  whence  the  forearms  become  great  black 
rubber-like  flippers  ;  while  from  the  hips  down  the  body 
tapers  into  a  double  tail,  instead  of  legs. 

As  we  took  a  farewell  look  at  the  rookeries,  what  a 
din  and  chatter  there  was !  There  were  old  seals  and 
young  seals,  males,  females,  and  "  pups,"  —  sportive, 
meditative,  and  quarrelsome.  The  males  were  guarding 
their  "harems"  while  the  females  were  lying  about  in 
enjoyment  of  their  leisure  and  ease.  Seals  are  very  shy, 
and  all  about  us  were  evidently  disturbed  by  our  presence. 
Whenever  any  of  us  approached  too  near,  within  ten  or 
twelve  feet,  the  males  assumed  an  angry,  threatening  atti- 
tude, and  they  expressed  their  anxiety  with  trembling  form, 
shaking  of  heads,  flashing  eyes,  gestures,  and  loud  roars 
of  voice. 

We  saw  the  sun,  a  great  ball  of  dull  red,  sink  into  the 
far-ofF  west,  and  in  the  twilight  we  retraced  our  steps  to 
the  landing,  and  took  places  in  our  boat  to  return  to  the 
ship. 

After  the  poor  forlorn  bachelor  has  become  a  regular 
Jeremiah  by  spending  the  season  in  lamentations,  he  is  dri\'en 
to  the  hauling  grounds  with  his  fellows,  knocked  in  the 
head,  stabbed  to  the  heart,  and  skinned.  The  skin  is  salted, 
pickled,  and  cured,  after  which  it  is  plucked  and  dyed. 
Every  here  and  there  over  the  seal's  body  a  coarse  white 
hair    grows    out    from    the    fur,  and    these  hairs  must   be 


32       An   American    Cruiser   in    the   East 

plucked  out  so  carefully  that  the  fur  is  not  injured,  other- 
wise the  skin   will   be  depreciated   in   value. 

A  little  while  ago  a  countryman  of  ours  invented 
a  machine  i'or  removing  these  hairs.  An  enthusiastic 
furrier  witnessed  some  experiments  with  the  machine,  and 
was  so  well  pleased  with  the  rapidity  of  the  work  that  he 
invested  in  hundreds  of  unplucked  skins  and  set  the  in- 
ventor to  work.  When  the  work  was  rinished  it  was  dis- 
covered that  a  small  tuft  of  fur  had  been  i)lucked  out  with 
each  hair,  and  the  skins  had  all  been  ruined.  I'he  pluck- 
ing is  all  done  by  hand  now.  After  the  plucking,  the 
skins  are  dyed  ;  for  it  must  be  remembered  that  until  the 
dver  has  satisfactorily  performed  his  operations  upon  it,  the 
seal's  skin  is  of  a  dark  silver-gray,  or  mouse-color,  —  not 
the  beautiful  brown  with  which  we  are  familiar. 

After  leaving  St.  George  Island,  we  cruised  about,  inside 
of  the  Aleutian  Islands,  as  far  west  as  Pass  No.  72.  The 
scenery  was  beautiful  beyond  description.  Nearly  every 
high  hill  was  covered  with  sncjw,  and  bel(jw  the  snow-line 
were  great  frowning  rocks,  palisades,  and  valleys,  while 
here  and  there  mad,  tumbling,  rushing  torrents  flowed  from 
the  gorged  streams  of  melted  snow.  Yonder,  a  handsome 
greensward,  a  lawn  of  nature's  own  making,  containing 
whole  acres  as  smooth  as  our  decks.  A  fine  buck  with 
ten-foot  antlers  was  grazing  near  the  beach,  but  was  gone 
before  a  rifle  could  be  reached.  Just  the  faintest  stain  of 
smoke,  within  the  beautiful  blue  vault  (jf  heaven,  indicated 
a  volcano,  that  some  night  may  be  in  full  eruption,  and 
send  forth  Hre,  ashes,  and  smoke  in  great  volume,  while 
changing  the  physical  geography  of  the  neighborhood. 

After  heading  to  the  northward  for  a  day,  we  saw  a  sail 
and  made  chase.  On  overhauling  "  the  find,"  it  proved  to 
be  a  whaler  whose  master  told  a  gloomy  story  of  losing 
a  boat's  crew  of  five  men,  while  trying  to  secure  a  whale. 
1  he    men  had  stuck    their  harpoons   into  the  whale,  which., 


Cruising  in   Behring  Sea  33 

as  usual,  started  off,  pulling  the  boat  with  it.  Suddenly 
diving,  the  whale  dragged  the  boat,  with  all  hands,  under, 
the  men  being  drowned  and  the  boat  lost.  Besides  this 
he  had  a  small  mutiny  to  subdue.  Some  of  his  men  were 
sick,  and  the  others  thought  the  old  vessel  was  too  shoit- 
handed  to  continue  on  the  hunt,  so  wished  to  go  into 
port  for  additional  help.  They  refused  to  work,  but  the 
old  skipper  meted  out  the  punishments  of  low  diet  and 
double  duty.  This,  together  with  the  presence  of  several 
men-of-war  in  the  sea,  caused  the  men  to  change  their 
minds  and  go  to  work.  The  burly  old  skipper  hummed 
psalm-tunes  as  he  stowed  his  papers  away,  and  cast  a  long, 
threatening  look  towards  his  forecastle.  Our  surgeon 
went  on  board  and  did  what  was  necessary  for  the  comfort 
of  the  sick. 

Three  days  afterwards,  while  a  fine  breeze  was  blowintr, 
we  sighted  a  sail  and  gave  chase.  After  running  nearly  all 
day,  and  burning  more  coal  than  would  supply  several 
houses  for  a  winter,  we  came  up  with  the  sail,  which  proved 
to  be  our  old  friend,  the  whaler.  Well  !  we  were  not  giving 
anything  away,  so  we  spoke  him,  returned  his  "dip," 
and  kept  right  on  the  course  as  though  we  were  going 
somewhere  in  a  hurry.  We  could  not  afford  to  let  that 
crowd  have  the  laugh   on   us. 

On  the  next  day,  we  sighted  a  schooner,  which  kept  just 
beyond  our  range  while  her  people  were  "doing"  all  the 
seamanship  they  knew,  evidently  with  the  hope  of  getting 
away,  whether  as  a  joke  or  for  more  substantial  reasons, 
we  could  only  conjecture.  It  was  one  of  those  intermitting, 
sunshiny,  and  foggy  days  so  common  in  those  latitudes. 
After  having  been  led  in  the  chase  until  it  began  to  look  as 
if  the  schooner  would  escape  us,  a  charge  of  powder  and  a 
shell  were  put  into  the  sixty-pounder,  and  in  a  moment  of 
sunshine  it  was  "let  eo."  It  was  a  fair  line  shot;  and  in 
less  time  than  I  can  write  it,  our  friend  was  almost  drowned 

3 


34      An  American   Cruiser  in  the  East 

in  a  shower  of  water.  The  rapidity  with  which  he  let  all 
his  "sails  fly"  was  a  sight  that  would  have  delighted  a 
yachtsman.  Our  vessel  was  soon  alongside  of  the  schooner, 
—  a  poacher,  of  course,  —  whose  master  was  ordered  to  take 
her  out  of  the  sea. 

After  more  of  such  cruising  and  the  enjoyment  of  the 
fine  scenery  about  the  islands,  we  worked  our  way  into  the 
harbor  of  Iliuliuk,  and  made  preparations  for  the  trip  to 
Japan,   via   Kamtchatka. 

Unalaska  to  Kamtchatka,  Siberia 

Early  on  the  morning  of  September  lo,  we  said  good- 
bye to  Unalaska,  and  started  for  Petropaulski,  Kamtchatka. 
We  ran  along  in  full  sight  of  the  Aleutian  Islands,  once 
more  enjoying  the  grandeur  and  beauty  of  the  magnificent 
scenery.  Late  in  the  afternoon,  we  reached  the  latest 
addition  to  United  States  soil,  the  changeable  island  of  Boga- 
slov.  Bogaslov  is  very  much  like  a  child's  "  Johnny-jump- 
up,"  only  Bogaslov  jumps  up  out  of  the  sea  and  then  sinks 
into  it  again,  to  rise  again  in  a  new  place.  Now  we  see  it 
as  a  great  volcano  sending  forth  dense  clouds  of  steam  and 
vapor,  not  only  from  its  crater,  but  from  crater  and  fissures 
in  its  sides,  giving  it  the  appearance  of  a  whole  mountain  on 
fire.  This  steam  and  vapor  are  formed  by  water  of  the  sea 
running  into  the  fissures  of  the  island  where  it  comes  in 
contact  with  internal  heat  and  is  sent  forth  seething  and 
boiling. 

The  old  volcano  Bogaslov,  known  to  the  Russians  for 
more  than  a  hundred  years,  is  near  by.  In  1882,  it  burst 
forth,  after  having  remained  quiet  for  more  than  half  a  cen- 
tury, and  a  new  volcano  was  thrown  up  from  the  sea  and 
added  to  our  possessions.  This  great  mass  of  matter 
issued  from  a  submarine  volcano.  The  particles,  it  is 
believed,  worked   up  and   around  the  outside  of  the  crater 


Cruising  in   Behring  Sea  35 

until  they  reached  the  sea-level,  where  they  formed  the 
foundation  of  our  new  Bogaslov.  So  far  as  known,  no 
human  being  witnessed  the  birth  of  this  island,  for  it  was 
never  reported.  Ships  sailed  by  the  spot  without  observing 
it,  and,  later,  ships  sailed  by,  and  it  was  there.  It  was  first 
seen  in  1883,  being  then  in  about  the  condition  we  saw  it,  with 
the  addition  of  a  strip  of  land  and  a  series  of  immense  rocks, 
known  as  "  sail-rocks,"  —  from  their  resemblance  to  a  full- 
rigged  ship, —  which  connected  the  old  and  the  new  Bo<j;a- 
slov.  These  connections  have  sunk  into  the  sea,  and  \'cs- 
sels  of  large  draught  of  water  can  sail  over  the  place  where 
they  once  were.  Extremes  meet  in  this  Behring  Sea  ! 
The  internal  fires  in  both  old  and  new  Bogaslov  never 
cease,  and  yonder  are  great  mountains  from  whose  peaks 
the  snow   never  melts. 

Our  path  lay  across  the  i8oth  meridian,  and  crossing 
this  meridian  for  the  first  time  is  an  event  in  a  Pacific 
cruise  almost  equal  to  crossing  the  equator.  The  green- 
horns are  made  to  pay  their  footing  and  are  warned  to  look 
out  for  the  line  ;  to  watch  and  see  that  the  ship  is  not  tripped 
up  bv  it,  and  there  is  alwavs  a  jolly  time.  This  meridian 
marks  the  division  of  time  between  the  eastern  and  western 
hemispheres,  and  is  exactly  opposite  Greenwich.  In  going 
westward,  when  we  cross  the  i8oth  meridian,  we  drop  a 
day  from  the  calendar  ;  for  instance,  one  retires  on  Friday 
night  and  awakens  on  Sunday  morning. 

There  is  a  tradition,  in  our  service,  of  an  old  salt  who 
would  not  drop  the  day,  and  when  his  vessel  fell  in  with 
the  fleet  he  was  still  running  his  own  time.  As  the  days 
rolled  on,  he  held  his  Sunday  service  on  Saturday,  so  when 
the  fleet  was  having  Sunday  routine,  our  friend  started  ofl^ 
with  "general  quarters,"  and  there  was  a  great  deal  of 
noise  and  racket  on  board  of  his  vessel.  The  senior 
ofiicer  signalled  him  to  change  his  time  and  go  on  with 
the   Sunday   routine  ;    so  our   friend   dropped   the   day,   and 


36       An  American   Cruiser  in  the  East 

ever  afterwards   insisted  that  he  had  kept  two  consecutive 
Sundays. 

The  weather  continued  fine  until  the  morning  of  the 
1 2th,  when  our  head  wind  and  sea  had  increased  to  such 
strength  that  we  could  not  steam  against  them.  The  ves- 
sel was  "  hove  to  "  under  steam  and  sail  until  the  evening 
of  the  14th,  when  the  weather  moderated,  and  we  were 
enabled  to  increase  our  speed. 

The  next  day  and  night  were  beautiful,  but  it  was  so 
cold  there  was  no  pleasure  in  being  on  deck.  On  the  night 
of  the  17th,  we  picked  up  a  gale  that  blew  right  in  our 
teeth  for  two  days  and  a  half,  and  the  ship  was  worked  in 
under  the  lee  of  Behring  and  Copper  islands,  where  we 
remained  until  the  20th.  There  we  experienced  some  of 
the  effects  of  the  kurisowo,  or  Japanese  warm  current, 
which  sweeps  up  the  coast  of  Asia,  and  is  divided  somewhere 
to  the  southward  of  Attau.  One  portion  flows  up  into 
Behring  Sea;  the  other,  being  diverted  by  the  Aleutian 
Islands,  extends  along  the  northern  Pacific,  moderates  the 
temperature,  and  renders  the  islands  habitable,  but  increases 
the  dangers  of  navigation  by  the  fogs  and  currents  it 
produces. 

As  the  gale  subsided,  we  worked  the  vessel  closer  in  to 
Behring  Island,  and  we  saw  the  place  where  Behring's  little 
vessel  was  wrecked,  and  further  on  the  spot  where  he  is 
buried.  The  memories  that  cling  about  this  island  are 
sad.  Near  this  spot,  shipwrecked  and  broken  in  health,  the 
intrepid  Behring  was  stricken  with  scurvy.  In  the  hope 
of  checking  its  ravages,  he  was  buried  in  the  sand,  but  in  a 
few  days  he  died  of  the  disease.  A  cruel  fate  !  a  horrible 
death  ! 

After  taking  a  look  at  Cooper  Island,  we  headed  for  the 
entrance  to  Petropaulski,  Kamtchatka.  We  sighted  the 
coast  at  about  two  on  the  morning  of  the  22d  and  pushed 
on  into  the  outer  harbor  of  Petropaulski.      As  we  ran  down 


Cruising  in   Behring   Sea  37 

the  coast,  the  lightning  flashed,  the  thunder  roared,  and  it 
rained  in  torrents  ;  but  as  the  land  is  bold  and  the  coast  well 
charted,  we  kept  on  our  course  and  anchored  in  the  bay. 

The  bay  of  Avatcha  measures  about  ten  miles  across  in 
every  direction,  and  is  surrounded  by  mountains  from  seven 
to  ten  thousand  feet  high,  whose  sides  are  covered  with 
dense  forests  of  birch,  which  extend  almost  to  their  peaks  ; 
while  in  the  distant  background  are  mountains  holding 
their  heads  seventeen  thousand  feet  high,  and  perpetually 
covered   with  snow. 

It  had  been  snowing  here  for  two  weeks,  and  it  was  a 
glorious  sight  to  see  the  sunshine.  Along  the  outlines  of 
some  of  the  mountains,  the  sun's  rays  playing  upon  the 
snow-banks  gave  all  the  prismatic  colors  of  the  rainbow. 
At  this  season  of  the  year,  the  weather  changes  very 
rapidly.  One  night  the  elements  will  be  warring  and  the 
rain  coming  down  as  though  the  very  flood-gates  had  burst, 
while  the  next  night  will  be  calm,  bright,  and  beautiful, 
and  all  the  world  seemingly  at  peace,  until  we  discover 
by  the  howling,  the  yells,  and  the  barking  that  we  are 
anchored  near  kennels  of  native  dogs.  These  creatures 
make  the  most  horrible  noises  that  can  be  heard  outside 
of  Cairo  in  Egypt.  The  noises  made  by  the  seals  at  St. 
Paul  Island  were  painful,  because  human-like,  but  they 
were  music  in  comparison  with  these  dogs. 


CHAPTER    IV 

PETROPAULSKI,     KAMTCHATKA.        EASTERN     SIBERIA 

THE  Russian  settlement  of  Petropaulski  stands  at  the 
head  of  the  harbor  of  Avatcha,  Kamtchatka,  in  an 
amphitheatre,  on  the  slope  of  two  hills,  which  form  a  valley 
that  is  covered  with  reeds  and  grasses.  The  settlement  is 
composed  of  about  two  hundred  small  log-houses,  surrounded 
by  handsome  little  courts  and  gardens,  which  are  neatly 
fenced  with  palings  and  interwoven  twigs.  Peter  the  Great 
took  a  great  interest  in  the  place,  and  more  than  two  hundred 
years  ago  it  was  a  flourishing  port,  but  now  it  contains  less 
than  one  thousand  inhabitants.  Bchring  was  able  to  build 
his  ships  here,  and  from  this  place  he  started  on  the  vovages 
of  discoverv  that  immortalized  his  name  and  added  so  much 
territory  to  the  Russian  Empire.  Petropaulski  has  long 
been  abandoned  by  the  Russians  as  a  military  station. 
It  is  an  interesting,  dilapidated  old  place,  whose  history 
has  been  honorable,  and  it  is  likely  again  to  play  an  impor- 
tant part  in  the  affairs  of  the  world. 

At  the  lower  part  of  the  settlement,  in  the  valley,  stands 
the  old  church,  remarkable  for  its  fantastic  architecture. 
It  is  fast  falling  into  ruins,  and  is  not  now  used.  A  high 
railing  has  been  built  around  the  grounds  for  protection, 
and  the  church  is  looked  upon  as  an  almost  sacred  thing, 
as  it  stands,  a  monument  to  the  marriages,  the  baptisms, 
the  funerals,  and  all  the  solemn  and  grand  religious  out- 
bursts of  this  hardv  people.  Before  Behring  and  his  fol- 
lowers were  blessed  there,  bishops,  priests  and  people  had 
suno;  masses  and  chanted  the  xVIiserere  within  its  little  white 


Eastern   Siberia  on 

walls.  A  new  church  has  been  erected  on  the  hill,  adjoin- 
ing the  governor's  palace.  On  one  side  of  the  church,  a 
monument  has  been  erected  to  Behring  ;  on  the  other  side 
is  a  monument  to  Gierke,  the  successor  of  the  famous 
Captain  Cook.  There  is  also  a  monument  to  the  navigator 
La  Perouse. 

On  a  point  of  land  which  separates  the  inner  from  the 
outer  harbor,  there  is  a  handsome  granite  monument  which 
commemorates  the  victory  gained  by  the  Russians  over  a 
combined  British  and  French  naval  force  in  1854.  During 
the  Crimean  war,  the  British  and  French  attacked  the 
place  in  torce,  having  six  vessels  and  three  thousand  men. 
The  Russians  had  several  land  batteries,  and  a  frigate  in 
the  harbor.  After  having  been  twice  repulsed,  the  com- 
manders of  the  allied  forces  determined  to  make  an  assault. 
A  large  force  of  sailors  and  marines  was  landed,  and  an 
attempt  was  made  to  take  the  place  in  the  rear.  The 
Russian  sharpshooters  picked  off  the  assailants  with  deadly 
aim.  Later  a  rush  was  made  by  the  Russians,  and  in  the 
panic  the  enemy  was  driven  over  the  steep,  sloping  cliff, 
two  hundred  feet  high,  into  the  plain  below.  It  is  said 
that  more  than  two  thousand  of  the  enemy  were  slain,  and 
five  hundred  Russians.  The  British  admiral  committed 
suicide  early  in  the  attack.  In  two  immense  trenches,  side 
by  side,  sleep  the  Russians  and  the  enemy  who  fell  that 
dav,  and  a  handsome  chapel  has  been  erected  on  the  plain. 

The  houses  of  Petropaulski  are  built  of  heavy  logs,  one 
piled  upon  the  other,  the  ends  being  halved  out  to  receive 
the  ends  of  the  cross  logs.  The  joints  are  calked  like  the 
seams  of  a  wooden  ship,  and  the  interiors  are  lined  with 
boards  and  painted  or  covered  with  paper.  No  attempt  is 
made  to  ornament  the  exteriors.  A  few  of  the  houses  are 
elegant,  many  are  comfortable,  but  the  great  majority  are 
in  keeping  with  the  people,  who  are  miserably  poor  and 
shiftless.      Religious  pictures  and   engravings  are  seen  upon 


40      An  American   Cruiser  in  the  East 

the  walls,  and  a  shrine,  containing  a  representation  of  the 
patron  saint,  is  placed  in  the  principal  room  of  every  house, 
and  in  the  shops.  When  entering  a  shop  it  is  customary 
to  remove  the  hat  in  honor  of  the  saint. 

The  men  of  the  lower  class  are  great  drunkards,  their 
favorite  beverage  being  "  swadka,"  a  raw  brandy  full  of 
fire,  which  they  do  not  hesitate  to  pour  down  their  "  copper- 
lined  "  throats  by  the  tumblerful.  The  evenings,  which 
usually  close  with  a  supper,  are  generally  spent  in  card-play- 
ing, drinking,  smoking,  and  tea-drinking. 

The  tea  used  by  these  people  is  of  a  superior  quality, 
and  is  made  in  a  very  careful  way.  The  "  samovar,"  or 
tea-urn,  is  seen  in  every  Russian  house,  and  is  found  from 
Behring  Sea  to  the  Baltic.  It  is  a  portable  furnace,  —  a 
brass  urn  through  which  passes  from  bottom  to  top  a 
cylinder,  a  couple  of  inches  in  diameter.  The  cylinder  is 
filled  with  ignited  charcoal,  and  the  water  is  heated  by  it, 
remaining  hot  as  long  as  the  fire  continues.  A  porcelain 
or  earthenware  tea-pot  is  warmed  with  hot  water  before 
the  dry  leaves  are  placed  in  it,  then  boiling  water  is  poured 
upon  the  leaves,  and  when  the  pot  is  about  full  it  is  placed 
on  top  of  the  samovar.  It  is  kept  hot,  but  does  not  boil, 
and  after  several  minutes  the  tea  is  ready.  The  Russians 
drink  their  tea  from  tumblers.  It  is  sweetened  with  loaf 
sugar,  and  a  thin  slice  of  lemon  floating  upon  its  surface 
gives  flavor  to  the  delicious  beverage. 

Just  before  dinner,  a  luncheon  is  served  on  a  side  table, 
in  the  dining-room,  and  consists  of  cordial,  wines,  bitters 
with  herring,  caviar,  dried  meats,  and  fish.  The  dinner 
follows  in  a  few  minutes,  and  is  served  in  this  order :  fish, 
soup,  roast  beef  and  vegetables,  chops  and  cake,  cream  and 
jellies,  the  whole  interspersed  with  wines  and  spirits.  The 
fish  is  always  served  before  the  soup. 

The  houses  are  heated  by  large  brick  stoves,  which  are 
from   four  to  six  feet   high,  and   so  arranged  as  to  extend 


Eastern   Siberia  41 

into  the  corners  of  two  or  three  rooms.  The  furnaces 
are  remarkably  small. 

The  women  have  attractive  features,  but  their  dress  is 
old-fashioned  and  plain.  The  children  are  a  merry,  noisy, 
bright-looking  lot  of  youngsters,  full  of  fun  and  frolic, 
except  when  the  governor  appears ;  then  the  fun  ceases,  and 
they  act  as  if  a  "  boogy  man  "  were  about.  They  have 
schools,  where  they  are  instructed  in  the  Russian  language, 
writing,  and  arithmetic.  They  are  not  encouraged  to  learn 
enough  to  make  them  dissatisfied  with  their  lot  in  life. 

There  are  several  good  shops  where  almost  anything  can 
be  purchased,  from  sugar  to  a  full  dress-suit.  The  fashion 
of  the  latter  may  be  a  little  ancient,  but  the  goods  will  be 
all  right. 

The  governor  of  Kamtchatka  is  a  colonel  in  the  Rus- 
sian army,  and  he  is  assisted  in  the  administration  by  a 
captain  and  fifty  Cossacks.  They  wear  a  butternut-brown 
uniform,  long  gray  overcoats,  and  flat-top  brown  caps,  being 
armed  with  rifles  of  superior  make.  These  troops  are 
stationed  about  the  settlement,  and  little  wooden  shanties 
protect  them  from  the  rain  and  snow.  The  people  hold 
the  governor  in  great  awe.  Wherever  he  goes,  hats  are 
removed  and  hands  fall  to  the  seams  of  the  trousers,  until 
his  pleasure  is  known,  or  he  leaves  the  place. 

Coal  is  brought  from  the  Shaghalen  Islands,  and  is 
expensive.  There  is  plenty  of  wood,  the  hills  being  cov- 
ered with  forests  of  young  birch,  which  is  used  for  all  con- 
structions as  well  as,  in  part,  for  fuel.  The  forests  are 
cared  for  by  the  government,  and  only  such  trees  as  it 
permits  can  be  cut.  Timber  is  cut  by  hand  or  imported 
from  California,  as  there  are  no  saw-mills  in  the  country. 

The  melted  snow  flows  down  the  mountain's  side,  and 
is  diverted  into  ditches  which  have  been  made  on  one  side 
of  every  street.  From  these  little  artificial  brooks  the 
people  get  their  supply  of  water  for  household  purposes. 


42      An  American   Cruiser  in   the   East 

Years  ago  the  cultivation  of  wheat,  rye,  and  barley  was 
introduced  with  considerable  success,  but  for  some  reason 
their  culture  has  not  been  continued.  The  people  depend 
upon  the  government  supplies  of  rye-flour,  which  is  brought 
here  and  sold  at  cost  price.  Potatoes,  turnips,  cabbages, 
and  lettuce  are  grown  in  the  little  gardens,  but  neither  the 
cabbages  nor  lettuce  will  head.  The  hills  are  covered  with 
beautiful  wild  flowers  and  tall  rank  grass.  Some  few  of 
the  hardy  flowers  are  raised  indoors  and  under  glass,  but 
they  do  not  succeed  in  the  open  air.  A  large  supply  of 
cattle  is  kept  on  hand,  and  the  beeves  are  killed  to  order. 

There  are  some  delightful  walks  and  climbs  about  Petro- 
paulski.  A  little  "clearing"  on  the  point  between  the 
harbors  is  delightfully  situated  for  magnificent  views  of 
the  snow-clad  mountains,  the  hills,  the  bays,  and  the  plains 
beyond.  In  the  autumn,  the  days  and  nights  are  fine,  clear, 
cold,  and  bracing ;  the  leaves  have  taken  on  their  yellows, 
browns,  and  reds,  and  are  about  to  die. 

The  weather  is  fine  until  the  middle  of  October  ;  after 
that  it  is  cold  and  wet,  and  the  snow  falls,  which  does  not 
disappear  until  June.  During  the  winter,  violent  storms 
occur,  the  cold  is  intense,  snow  falls  in  such  quantities  as 
to  lie  even  with  the  house-tops,  and  the  people  cannot  get 
about.  In  their  imprisonment,  with  storehouses  full,  they 
sleep  and  idle  the  time  away  until  the  thaw.  The  road- 
stead outside  is  rarely  frozen  over. 

The  summers  are  short  and  hot.  Vegetation  is  of  re- 
markably rapid  growth  ;  as  soon  as  the  snow  disappears,  the 
trees  send  forth  their  buds  and  blossoms,  and  the  hills  and 
valleys  take  on  their  beautiful  verdure.  In  the  same  week 
the  snow  and  ice  may  melt,  and  the  trees  begin  to  bloom. 
The  temperature  ranges  from  sixty  to  seventy-five  degrees,. 
Fah. 

Fish  form  the  basis  of  the  native's  food,  and  the  salmon 


Eastern  Siberia  43 

is  his  choice.  The  fishing  season  lasts  for  nearly  two 
months,  when  the  salmon  ascend  the  streams.  They 
are  taken  in  seines,  and  immense  numbers  are  caught 
each  year.  Salmon  intended  for  the  winter's  supply  are 
split  and  dried  in  the  sun.  The  odor  from  one  of  these 
drying  establishments  is  abominable  and  sickening.  The 
natives  in  the  interior  catch  the  salmon  in  nets  and  with 
spears,  while  the  dogs,  wolves,  and  bears  catch  them  with 
their  mouths. 

Kamtchatka  dogs  are  famous,  and  those  of  Petropaulski 
are  second  to  none  for  the  noises  they  can  make.  There 
are  about  two  thousand  of  them  owned  in  the  town.  They 
can  bark,  but  they  seem  to  prefer  to  howl.  They  begin 
about  sunset,  and  keep  up  the  most  dismal  howling  until 
morning,  making  sleep  and  rest  almost  impossible,  and  life 
miserable. 

Kamtchatka  has  no  industrial  interests  except  its  trade 
in  skins  and  furs,  and  that  is  verv  limited.  Trade  is  con- 
ducted on  the  barter  plan,  and  the  poor  native  finds  his 
furs  are  cheap  and  the  store  goods  are  high  priced.  Sable 
is  the  principal  fur  trapped  by  the  natives,  and  all  their 
ingenuity  is  expended  in  its  capture. 

The  poll  tax  of  the  natives  is  paid  in  sable  skins  at  the 
rate  of  one  skin  for  every  four  persons,  and  the  governor 
makes  an  annual  visit  to  all  the  villages,  to  collect  the  tax. 
Foxes,  sea-otter,  silver  foxes,  and  bears  are  also  caught  in 
small  numbers,  and  traded  to  the  merchants.  Bears  are 
plentiful,  but  their  skins  are  not  desired  for  export.  Bear- 
hunting  is  one  of  the  sports  of  the  community. 

There  are  about  one  thousand  inhabitants  in  the  settle- 
ment, consisting  of  Russians,  Cossacks,  Kamtchadales,  and 
half-breeds.  The  port  is  free,  so  far  as  import  and  export 
duties  are  concerned.  The  local  government  is  supported 
by   the  fines  and  dues   of  various   kinds. 

Exiles  have  not  been  sent  to  Kamtchatka  since  1830. 


CHAPTER   V 

KAMTCHATKA,     EASTERN     SIBERIA 

THE  Russians  say  :  "  Even  the  distant  shores  of  the 
cold  and  fog-covered  Sea  of  Okhotsk  are  not,  how- 
ever, quite  the  ultima  Thule  of  that  dreariest  of  regions, 
Siberia  ;   Kamtchatka  lies  beyond." 

The  peninsula  of  Kamtchatka  extends  out  from  the 
northeastern  extremity  of  Asia,  and  lies  between  the  Sea  of 
Okhotsk  and  the  Pacific  Ocean.  It  is  about  eight  hundred 
miles  long  and  two  hundred  and  fifty  miles  at  its  broadest 
part.  The  entire  peninsula  is  a  vast  range  of  volcanic 
mountains,  many  of  which  are  in  a  state  of  activity,  and 
earthquakes  are  of  frequent  occurrence.  Two  of  these 
volcanoes  have  thrown  ashes  and  stones  for  more  than  a 
hundred  miles,  and  Avatcha,  just  behind  Petropaulski,  has 
sent  out  showers  of  stones  and  water.  Kamtchatka  is  in- 
cluded in  the  province  of  Eastern  Siberia,  and  Petropaulski 
is  its  capital. 

The  Kamtchatka  is  the  only  navigable  river,  and  empties 
into  the  ocean  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  peninsula.  There 
are  many  smaller  streams,  which  contain  great  quantities  of 
fish  and  water-fowl.  Whales,  walruses,  seals,  cod,  and 
herring  abound  in  the  seas,  and  many  salmon  are  found  in 
the  rivers.  Game  is  plentiful  near  the  coast,  and  on  the 
streams  ducks,  teal,  divers,  quail,  and  woodcock  are  abun- 
dant ;  while  tracks  of  larger  game  are  found  all  over  the 
country, 

Avatcha  Bay  is  a  very  extensive  basin,  nearly  circular  in 
shape,  and  is  about  ten  miles  across.      It  is    formed  at   the 


Kamtchatka,   Eastern   Siberia  45 

foot  of  a  larger  outer  bay  of  the  same  name,  near  the 
southeastern  end  of  the  peninsula,  and  would  afFord  secure 
shelter  for  all  the  fleets  of  the  world.  The  harbor  of 
Petropaulski,  on  the  eastern  side  of  Avatcha  inner  bay,  is 
small,  deep,  and  well  sheltered,  and  is  a  very  convenient 
place  in  which  vessels  may  refit,  although  there  is  no 
dock. 

Three  aboriginal  tribes  still  inhabit  the  peninsula.  The 
Kouricks  and  Ohlutors  divide  the  north,  while  the  Kamtcha- 
dales  roam  over  the  south.  They  are  a  dirty,  repulsive  set, 
of  short  stature  and  filthy  habits,  and  they  subsist  by  means 
of  fishing  and  hunting.  They  have  no  settled  home,  but 
wander  from  place  to  place,  leading  their  most  precious 
treasure,  the  "  mean  yellow  dogs."  The  whole  population 
of  Kamtchatka  is  less  than  five  thousand. 

The  dog  is  a  native  of  the  country,  and  is  as  uglv  as  his 
master.  He  has  many  of  the  instincts  of  the  mastifi^  and 
the  wolf,  both  of  which  he  resembles,  having  the  body  of 
the  former  and  the  head  of  the  latter.  He  is  of  a  dirty 
yellow  or  silver  color,  his  senses  are  keener  in  the  night 
than  in  the  daylight,  and  his  bark  and  howl  are  peculiar. 
He  is  alert  and  nervous,  but  obedient  under  the  lash.  He 
has  no  feelings  of  attachment,  and  he  should  always  be 
driven  by  the  hand  and  the  voice  that  have  trained  him. 
It  is  very  necessary  to  keep  him  in  good  temper  with  his 
neighbors,  and  it  is  not  safe  to  let  him  loose  at  any  time. 
The  half  of  a  dried  salmon  is  his  day's  ration  when  idle  ; 
and  this  is  materially  reduced  when  he  is  at  work,  as  it  is 
believed  that  he  will  work  better  when  on  the  verge  of 
starvation.  The  young  dogs  are  considered  the  most 
dangerous. 

Kamtchatka  being  situated  between  the  ocean  and  the 
sea,  and  influenced  by  the  Japanese  warm  current,  it  has  a 
somewhat  milder  climate  than  is  found  in  the  same  latitudes 
on  the  Asiatic  continent,  but  it   is  a  cheerless,  dreary  place. 


46       An   American   Cruiser  in   the   East 


At  Sea.  —  Ok  Passage  to  Japan 

The  midnight  of  the  25th  ushered  in  a  beautiful  day, 
and  in  the  early  morning  we  left  our  anchorage  and  shaped 
our  course  for  Japan.  On  the  way  through  the  waters  of 
Avatcha  we  took  a  farewell  look  at  the  land.  Just  north 
of  the  settlement,  Mount  Korianski  stands  1,100  feet  high 
in  its  mantle  of  newly  fallen,  glistening  snow,  resplendent  in 
the  glorious  sunshine,  while  all  about  it  lesser  mountains 
and  hills  crowd  upon  the  vision ;  and  behind  all,  great 
black  clouds  work  down  from  the  northward.  Further  on 
down  the  bay,  the  whole  coast  is  one  mass  of  jagged  moun- 
tains, hills,  and  deep  ravines.  Wiluckneski,  7,250  feet 
high,  and  Flat  Mount,  both  snow-clad,  sparkle  like  great 
masses  of  diamonds  amid  the  torest  of  black  hills. 

After  leaving  Avatcha  Bav,  we  had  our  usual  rain  and 
mists,  with  head  winds  and  seas.  The  winds  and  seas  in- 
creased until  Thursday  morning,  when  we  found  ourselves 
in  a  lively  gale.  From  about  five  o'clock  we  had  a  suc- 
cession of  rain  squalls,  for  two  hours  after  which  the  old 
ship  wallowed  in  a  very  heavy,  confused  sea  with  no  wind. 
The  stifling,  oppressive  influence  that  always  accompanies 
the  typhoon  was  present.  The  barometer  registered  about 
28,  and  the  vessel  rolled  from  side  to  side  with  a  deep 
lurch  that  was  slow  of  reco\'erv ;  but  in  her  own  good 
time  she  changed  the  motion,  came  up,  and  started  oft'  on 
the  other  roll.  The  hatches  were  battened  down,  and  spars 
and  masts  were  sent  from  aloft  and  secured.  At  every  dip, 
green  seas  rolled  over  the  rail,  and  for  a  time  it  seemed  as  if 
the  ship  must  swamp.  The  bulkheads  set  up  a  melancholy 
squeaking  that  added  to  the  unpleasantness.  To  keep  the 
vessel  under  control,  the  engines  were  turning  ahead  slowly, 
the  men  at  the  wheel  met  the  seas  and  tried  to  hold  her  up 
to  them.      Thick  oil  was  dripped  from  a  canvas  bag  at  hei 


Kamtchatka,   Eastern   Siberia  47 

bow,  while  the  boihng  seas  chased  each  other  over  her 
sides  from   every  direction. 

Later  in  the  day,  the  seas  took  on  more  form,  and  as  a 
great  roller  was  approached,  the  engines  were  speeded  to 
their  utmost.  The  sea,  like  an  angry  child,  was  making 
havoc  with  our  luggage  below,  article  after  article,  singly, 
in  pairs,  and  in  crowds,  being  dashed  from  their  places  into 
the  filthy  water  that  was  swashing  over  the  floors  of  our 
rooms.  Bibles  were  chased  around  by  boots  and  shoes, 
nautical  and  musical  instruments  followed  ;  packs  of  cards, 
books,  and  articles  of  clothing  were  tossed  about  like  wreck- 
age upon  a  beach  when  the  tide  is  low. 

At  sundown,  a  faint  breeze  was  discovered,  which  in- 
creased during  the  night.  As  it  freshened,  sail  was  set,  the 
vessel's  speed  was  increased,  and  by  daylight  we  had  a  fine 
breeze,  and  were  bounding  along,  under  steam  and  sail, 
with  nothing  to  mar  our  happiness  except  the  recollection 
of  the  wreckage  in  our  little  rooms. 

On  the  morning  of  the  4th,  we  sighted  the  Japanese 
coast,  and  ran  along  near  the  islands.  In  the  afternoon, 
we  passed  close  enough  to  see  a  large  native  city  with  its 
thousands  of  houses  and  huts,  some  of  its  temples,  and 
much  of  its  bustle  and  life,  while  off  its  harbor  more 
than  three  hundred  junks  were  riding  at  anchor  or  engaged 
in  fishino;. 

As  we  worked  to  the  southward,  we  picked  up  fair 
weather,  and  enjoyed  smooth  seas  and  pleasant  skies.  Old 
Neptune  became  so  extremely  polite  and  so  careful  of  us 
that  our  late  unpleasant  shaking  up  was  almost  forgotten. 
The  life  lines  and  extra  lashings  were  removed,  exercises 
and  drills  were  resumed,  the  lately  sea-sick  crawled  out 
from  their  little  rooms,  and  the  vessel  once  more  became 
tidy  and  trim.  The  great  sodden  cloud-shapes  in  the 
mysterious,  ever-changing  vault  were  replaced  by  glorious 
skies.      Our  sun  sank  behind  that  great  purple-black  streak, 


48       An   American   Cruiser   in   the   East 

the  Empire  of  Japan,  and  the  fantastic  shapes  and  colors 
presented  to  our  view  would  make  an  artist  famous  if  he 
could  but  reproduce  their  beautiful  effects  upon  his  canvas. 
Our  half-ill  servants  were  soon  on  deck,  to  take  a  look 
at  the  outlines  of  the  countrv  which  was  their  home,  and 
while  thev  did  not  indulge  in  the  old  songs  of  "  Home, 
Sweet  Home,"  or  "  Home  Again,"  we  could  easily  see 
that  thev  felt  all  the  sentiments  of  those  songs,  and  more. 
Their  mobile,   jaundice-like   faces   lighted    up  with  almost 


xim   1  ■  l.^  1   -1    X    ..ii'KA,  Japan. 

sickly  smiles  as  they  bowed  low  towards  their  country, 
and  to  each  other,  and  congratulated  themselves  upon  their 
good  fortune,  or  joined  in  animated  conversation  about  their 
past  disappointments  and  their  new-found  hopes. 

We  soon  rounded  Nasima  light,  on  Cape  King;,  and 
stood  up  Yeddo  Bay  towards  Yokohama.  From  the 
dreary  waters  of  old  ocean,  with  their  gloomy  background, 
to  the  westward,  we  now  turned  towards  a  beautiful  pano- 
rama. Terraced  hills,  of  beautiful  green,  crowned  and 
combed   with  bamboo,  lined  the  broad   bay  on   each  side. 


Kamtchatka,    Ea>tern   Siberia 


49 


Here  and  there  were  towns,  villages,  and  hamlets  of  native 
houses,  and  huts  surrounded  bv  neat  little  farms,  gardens, 
or  groves.  Scarlet  or  unpainted  wooden  torii  marked 
the  temple  path,  which  ends  in  a  grove  of  tine  old  trees. 
The  great  towering  chimnev  ot  modern  bricks  sent  its 
curling  black  smoke  like  clouds  over  the  little  hamlet, 
while  the  hum  of  machines  announced  the  fabrication  of 
beautiful  silks  and  satins.  Great  steamers  ploughed  through 
the  waters,  and  little  ones  rushed   up  or  down   like  mad,  as 


A  Japanese  Torii  and  Lanterns. 

thev  sent  a  deafening:  whoop  from  their  tinv  steam-whistles. 
Cnpainted  iunks,  with  bright-bronze  fastenings,  and  square 
white  sails  streaked  half-wav  down  with  black,  stood  across 
the  swift  running  waters;  and  all  about  little  fishing-boats, 
with  picturesque  people  managing  sails  or  oars,  caused  us 
to  slow,  to  port,  to  starboard  our  helm,  or  speed  the  ship 
to  avoid  collision.  As  we  approached  the  city,  the  scene 
became  still  more  animated.  The  houses  were  more  pre- 
tentious and  closer  together.       The   hum   and   din   of  ma- 


^o      An  American   Cruiser  in  the  East 

chinery  was  heard,  and  the  great  red  ribs  of  a  leviathan 
steamer  were  seen  upon  the  ways  as  we  passed  near  the 
shipyards.  The  people  in  the  little  native  boats  were  noisy 
and  boisterous.  Steamers  were  swinging  at  buoys,  in  the 
outer  reach,  while  taking  cargoes  of  coal,  or  silk,  or  tea 
from  great  lighters,  and  the  breech-clothed  coolies  sang 
merrily  as  they  passed  up  bags,  or  bales,  or  boxes. 
These  coolies  were  stalwart,  handsome  fellows,  with  splen- 
did muscles  standing  out  as  they  bent  and  pulled  and 
lifted  the  heavy  weights.  Along  the  beach,  crowds  of 
men,  women,  and  children  were  bathing  in  the  surf,  while 
some  of  the  more  venturesome  were  swimming  in  our 
wake,  and  others  beyond  it  were  heading  for  the  opposite 
shore. 


Fujiyama. 


CHAPTER   VI 


YOKOHAMA,    JAPAN 


IN  the  afternoon  we  moored^  the  vessel  inside  of  the 
breakwater  at  Yokohama,  and  before  the  first  anchor 
was  on  the  bottom,  we  were  besieged  by  a  long  line  of 
"  sampans,"  or  native  boats,  made  of  pine  boards,  propelled 
by  two  long  stern  oars,  worked  by  the  little  brown  boatmen. 
These  boats  contained  representatives  of  nearly  all  the 
business  houses  in  the  town,  and  their  occupants  ranged 
from  washermen  to  the  business  managers  of  great  com- 
mercial houses.  Americans,  Britons,  Germans,  Japanese, 
Parsees,  Chinese,  and  natives  of  India  and  Africa  helped  to 
swell  the  cosmopolitan  mob,  for  mob  it  was,  until  our 
master-at-arms  took    charge    of   the   ship's    gangway,  and 


52      An  American   Cruiser  in  the  East 

arranged  for  the  people  to  come  on  board  in  an  orderly 
manner.  Some  of  these  people  were  old  acquaintances. 
Many,  soliciting  trade,  presented  their  cards  and  recom- 
mendations, whilst  others  brought  samples  and  specimens 
of  their  wares.  In  most  cases,  the  wares  were  beautiful, 
the  offers  tempting,  and  the  merchants  and  their  assistants 
courteous  and  graceful. 

Loath  to  leave  this  bazaar-like  scene  upon  our  decks,  we 
turn   from  these    interesting-  merchants   to    look  over  and 


The  101  Steps  at  the  Bluff,  Yokohama,  Japan,  with  the 
Celebrated  Zenaba  Tea-House  on  the  Left. 

beyond  the  rail,  to  see  the  bay  well  filled  with  merchant 
steamers,  sailing-vessels,  native  craft,  our  old  "  Monocacy," 
and  several  Japanese  war-vessels,  whose  gay  ensigns  flutter 
in  the  breezes. 

On  low,  undulating  grouhd,  between  two  ranges  of  low 
hills,  lies  the  town,  studded  with  neat  little  Japanese  houses 
and  gay  shops.  The  hills,  called  "  the  Bluffs,"  are  about 
one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  high,  semi-circular  in  trend, 
and  stretch  inland  for  a  mile  or  more.      Far  awav,  and  over 


Yokohama,   Japan  ^^ 

the  town,  snow-mantled  Fujiyama  looms  up  15,000  feet 
towards  the  heavens,  while  a  great  white  cloud  cuts  its 
beautiful  cone  between  snow-line  and  base.  Fujiyama, 
as  Fujisan,  has  been  almost  deified.  It  is  the  object  of 
many  pilgrimages,  and  has  always  held  the  first  place 
in  the  affections  of  the  Japanese  people.  It  is  the  first 
thing  looked  for  and  greeted  in  the  morning;  and  when 
the  gloaming  is  darkening  into  night,  and  Fujisan  is 
disappearing  from  view,  millions  of  people  bid  it  good- 
night. 

The  harbor  is  naturally  exposed  to  strong  winds  and 
seas,  and  a  semi-circular  breakwater,  twelve  thousand  feet 
long,  is  in  process  of  construction  for  its  protection.  This 
breakwater  extends  from  the  entrance  to  the  canal,  under 
the  bluffs,  to  the  northern  extremity  of  the  settlement,  and 
has  an  opening  six  hundred  and  fifty  feet  wide  at  its  middle 
part,  through  which  we  entered  the  harbor.  There  are 
fixed  red  and  green  lights  on  the  sides  of  the  entrance,  and 
buoys  of  corresponding  colors  are  placed  well  inside  and 
outside  of  the  works  as  ranges  for  the  navigator,  and  as 
marks  of  the  channel.  This  breakwater  is  a  great  under- 
taking, and  a  magnificent  piece  of  engineering.  Its  massive 
granite  walls  would  reflect  credit  upon  the  working-men 
of  any  country.  A  great  iron  pier,  two  thousand  feet 
long,  at  which  vessels  may  discharge  and  take  in  cargo, 
is  being  built  out  into  the  bay,  at  the  northern  end  of 
the  town. 

Yokohama  is  situated  on  the  western  side  of  Yeddo  Bay, 
and  is  about  eighteen  miles  from  the  capital,  with  which  it 
is  connected  by  a  fine  double-track  railway,  or  by  water,  for 
vessels  of  very  light  draught.  The  foreign  residences  are 
situated  in  handsome  gardens  on  "the  Bluffs,"  —  a  special 
concession  made  to  foreigners  when  the  present  town  of 
Yokohama  was  an  insignificant  fishing-village.  "  The 
Bluffs  "   are   reached  by  a  system  of  winding  roads,  or  by 


56       An   American   Cruiser  in   the   East 

one  hundred  and  one  granite  steps.  The  views  from  the  top 
of  these  hills  are  fine,  and  the  location  is  the  healthiest  in 
this  section  of  country.  The  tea-house  at  the  top  of  the 
steps  is  one  of  the  most  celebrated  in  Japan.  There  is  a 
fine  Public  Garden  at  "the  Bluffs,"  and  the  race-course, 
which  has  a  good  track  and  is  well  enclosed,  is  situated 
about  a  mile  beyond.  The  semi-annual  meets  are  well 
patronized,  and  attract  crowds  of  people  from  the  open 
ports.      Chinese  and  Japanese   ponies  are  usually  run,  and 


'Jul  (iuAxi)   Hijtil.  Yoij  )1Iam.\,  Jman. 

the  sport  is  thoroughly  enjoyed.  A  public  hall,  com- 
bining theatre  and  assembly-room,  is  also  located  on  "  the 
Bluffs." 

The  Bund  is  a  fine  hard  roadway,  extending  along  the 
entire  water-front  of  Yokohama,  and  upon  this  many  of  the 
principal  houses  and  hotels  front.  There  are  churches, 
mission-houses,  and  schools  of  many  Christian  denomina- 
tions in  the  settlement,  and  near  the  centre  is  a  very  di 
lapidated  recreation-ground.  The  public  water-supply  is 
excellent   in   quality   and   quantity.      The   hotels   of  Yoko-. 


Yokohama,   Japan 


59 


hama  afford  excellent  accommodations.  The  Grand  Hotel, 
for  example,  situated  at  the  southern  end  of  the  settlement, 
and  facing  Bund  and  bay,  is  one  of  the  finest  in  the  East. 
It  has  all  the  modern  conveniences  and  appliances,  and, 
under  the  management  of"  Fussy  little  Louis,"  who  haunts 
the  markets  for  delicacies,  its  menu  is  second  to  none  in  the 
world. 

Several  daily  and  weekly  newspapers,  in  the  English 
language,  are  published  here,  and  the  latest  news  from  all 
parts   of  the   world   is   obtained. 


JiNRiKiSHA  IN  Japan. 

At  Yokohama,  the  visitor  from  the  United  States  has  the 
first  glimpse  of  beautiful  Japan,  and  of  its  wonderful  people. 
Whether  you  land  at  the  canal  or  at  the  "  Hataba,"  you  are 
met  by  a  crowd  of  jolly,  laughing  jinrikisha  men,  each 
offering  his  vehicle,  and  soliciting  your  patronage.  If  you 
except  the  customs  officials,  the  jinrikisha  men  are  about 
the  first  acquaintances  one  makes  in  Japan.  Each  of  these 
worthies  is  clad  in  a  close-fitting  white-knit  shirt,  dark-blue. 


6o      An   American   Cruiser   in   the   East 

skin-tight  pantaloons,  or  his  bare,  brown  legs  display  the 
splendid  muscles  that  rival  those  of  an  athlete.  The  sun's 
rays  are  warded  off  bv  a  large  flat  helmet,  and  he  is  shod 
with  sandals  of  plaited  straw.  If  he  is  at  all  "  dudish,"  he 
wears  a  close-fitting,  dark-blue  coat,  having  scarlet  edges 
and  a  great  white  monogram,  or  character,  emblazoned 
upon  the  middle  of  the  back.  These  poor  fellows  are  in- 
telligent, faithful,  and  honest.  As  soon  as  you  engage  one 
you  can  trust  him,  and  your  property  is  perfectly  safe  in  his 
care.  The  fare  for  these  jinrikishas  is  ridiculously  low, 
fifteen  cents  paying  for  an  hour's  ride,  ten  cents  for  any 
short  distance,  and  seventy-five  cents  tor  a  whole  day's 
service. 

Two  men  should  always  be  employed  with  a  jinrikisha, 
one  to  pull  and  one  to  push.  The  overheating  and  sudden 
cooling,  incident  to  the  work,  is  very  injurious  to  health, 
and  produces  throat  and  lung  troubles,  which  are  frequently 
followed  by  consumption  and  death.  An  excellent  author- 
ity places  the  duration  of  life  of  a  "rickshaw"  man  at  less 
than  five  years.  After  my  attention  had  been  called  to  these 
facts,  I  never  permitted  myself  to  be  pulled  about  by  one 
man. 

The  government  buildings  in  Yokohama,  —  built  of  stone 
in  the  foreign  style  of  architecture,  —  and  the  Consulates, 
are  grouped  near  the  centre  of  the  native  settlement.  The 
Consulates  are  surrounded  by  handsome,  well-kept  grounds, 
situated  on  wide  streets.     The  town  has  grown  ^  so  rapidly 

^  Yokohama  has  grown  rapidly  since  1859,  wlien  it  was  thrown 
open  to  foreign  trade.  It  is  the  port  of  entry  for  Tolcio,  a  consider- 
able coast,  and  the  surrounding  country.  The  population  is  about  one 
hundred  and  fifty  thousand.  The  number  of  foreign  residents  is  about 
six  thousand,  of  whom  four  thousand  are  Chinese.  The  imports  con- 
sist chiefly  of  cotton  and  woollen  goods.  The  value  of  the  imports  is 
$30,679,508.  The  total  value  of  the  exports  is  $50,450,489.  Silk  is 
the  most  valuable  of  the  exports,  being  valued  at  $40,570,286. 


Yokohama,   Japan 


63 


that  the  native  houses,  as  a  rule,  are  not  equal  to  those  in 
other  towns.  The  roads  are  unmended,  and  in  the  rainy 
season   almost   impassable. 

On  the  Bund,  one  sees  all  sorts  and  conditions  of  natives. 
The  man  yonder,  in  the  gray  suit,  like  our  letter-carriers, 
is  in  the  Imperial  Customs  service ;  the  little  fellow  in 
blue-cloth  sack  suit,  with  the  great  goggles  on  his  nose,  and 
sword  by  his  side,  is  a  policeman,  and  the  little  box  on  the 
corner  is  the  place  in  which  he  takes  his  rest  and  finds  shel- 


A  Japanese  Sampan. 

ter  from  sun  and  rain.  The  man  who  is  coming  down  the 
middle  of  the  road,  at  a  dog-trot,  is  a  mail  runner ;  the  tiny 
parcel,  suspended  from  the  bamboo  rod  over  his  shoulder,  is 
the  mail.  These  men,  bv  relays,  go  all  over  the  Empire, 
conveying  packages  over  mountains  and  through  valle\s  to 
the  most  remote  places,  and  they  are  said  to  make  remark- 
ably quick  time. 

We  meet  representatives   of  every  nationality  in  cosmo- 
politan Yokohama  :  the  sight-seeing  American,  who  landed 


64       An   American   Cruiser   in   the   East 

from  the  last  steamer  from  'Frisco,  or  who  is  loitering  to 
see  more  of  the  country  ;  the  Englishman,  who  is  making 
the  "■  grand  tour ;  "  the  Frenchman,  who  is  interested  in 
beautiful  curiosities  ;  the  German,  in  quest  of  raw  silk  and 
mattings ;  the  Russian,  whose  interest  centres  in  furs ; 
the  Parsee,  in  search  of  desirable  stocks ;  the  Aleute, 
stranded  from  a  Japanese  sealing-schooner ;  the  Indian, 
who  mysteriouslv  brings  from  the  folds  of  his  garments  the 
most  wonderful  necklaces,  brooches,  rings,  and  unmounted 
stones  of  dazzling  brilliancy,  all  sworn  to  be  "  first  water  " 
and  "  perfect,"  but  at  prices  so  astonishingly  low  as  to  excite 
suspicions  of  their  genuineness  ;  the  Chinaman,  bent  on 
legitimate  trade,  who  keeps  a  furnishing  or  a  grocery 
shop,  and  adds  to  his  gains  bv  the  sale  of  Manila  lottery 
tickets  ;  and  the  native  of  South  Africa,  who  offers  a  (ew 
Cape  Colony  "diamonds"  of  exceptional  brilliancy,  which 
he  has  "  smuggled  "  into  the  country  from  Africa,  or  perhaps 
imported  from  Birmingham. 

We  pass  on,  beyond  the  Go\ernment  buildings  and  Con- 
sulates, make  a  couple  of  turns  in  the  road,  and  enter  the 
Benton  Dori,  a  road  which  extends  westward,  and  contains 
many  native  shops.  It  is  a  veritable  "Japanese  old  curi- 
osity bazaar  "  on  an  extensive  scale  :  old  armor,  swords,  bows 
and  arrows,  pikes,  spears,  battle-axes,  and  all  the  war-gear 
for  man  and  horse.  Their  fashion  and  workmanship  are 
beautiful.  Many  of  them  are  marked  and  inlaid  with  gold 
and  silver,  while  many  others  are  mounted  with  rich  bronze, 
which  was  considered  more  precious  than  gold  or  silver. 
These  arms,  which  cost  hundreds,  and  in  some  cases  thou- 
sands, of  dollars  to  manufacture,  can  now  be  obtained  for  a 
few  dollars  apiece.  They  are  graphic  relics  of  Japan,  her 
noble  families,  her  arms,  and  her  military  glory,  from  the 
early  ages  of  her  history  to  the  present  time,  and  they 
should  not  be  scattered  all  over  the  world,  but  should  be 
gathered    together    and    deposited    in    a   great    museum    at 


Yokohama,   Japan 


65 


Tokio,  where    thev    could    remain    on    exhibition    for    all 
time. 

The  Benton  Dori  is  not  all  made  up  of  arms  and  armor. 
Brocades,  silks,  porcelains,  masks,  and  portraits,  and  beauti- 
ful embroideries,  old  bronzes,  ivory,  and  wood  carvings,  — 
much  of  it  marvellously  fine,  —  is  to  be  seen  in  almost 
every  shop.  The  very  fronts  have  been  removed  from  the 
little  shops,  and  the  whole  interiors  are  exposed  to  view. 
How  artistic   is  the  anaiiirement   of  the   beautiful   and   odd 


Japanese  Grliln-(jk 


ocLic  s  Miur. 


wares  !  What  temptation  there  is  to  empty  one's  pockets, 
and  say,  "  Give  me  anything  ;  all  is  so  charming!  "  Thus  it 
is,  shop  after  shop,  on  both  sides  of  the  road,  for  the  mile 
or  more  of  its  length,  crowds  of  bright  little  men,  women, 
and  children  thronging  its  thoroughfare,  and  peals  of  merry 
laughter  ringing  out  in  unison  with  the  sounds  of  the  clogs 
upon  its  walk.  One  is  always  dissatisfied  in  this  great 
bazaar,  where  the  more  that  is  seen,  the  greater  is  the  desire 
to  see  more   and  to   examine   closer.      Hours    are   instruc- 

5 


66      An   American   Cruiser  in  the  East 

lively  and  entertainingly  spent  in  roaming  from  shop  to 
shop,  inspecting  the  beautiful  wares,  while  chatting  about 
their  manufacture  and  history  with  the  bright  little  shop- 
keepers or  manufacturers. 


A  Japanese  Actor. 

Retracing  our  steps  to  the  end  of  the  road,  where  we 
entered,  we  make  a  sharp  turn  to  the  right,  and  find  our- 
selves on  the  gay  Isszakicho;  and  a  little  further  on  we  are 
among  the  theatres,  museums,  booths,  tea-shops,  and  bazaars 
which  line  its  road.  Here  all  is  noise  and  gayety.  Banners 
and  streamers  float  on  the  breezes,  bright  lanterns  add  to  the 


Yokohama,  Japan  69 

brilliant  scene ;  and  beating  drums,  the  samesan,  the  high- 
pitched  voices  of  the  actors,  the  criticisms  and  applause  of 
the  audience,  —  all  increase  the  noise  and  confusion  of  the 
place. 

We  entered  the  best-looking  theatre  on  the  road,  and  sat 
through  some  pantomime  acting,  which  was  novel  to  us. 
The  stage  was  bare  of  scenery.  The  actors  and  actresses 
were  painted  and  made  up  with  faces  like  those  of  the 
Chinese,  although  their  costumes  were  ancient  Japanese 
court  dresses.  The  play  was  founded  on  a  Japanese  love- 
story,  in  which  a  maiden  was  carried  off  by  her  lover  and 
his  friends,  after  all  the  members  of  her  family  had  been 
murdered,  and  their  house  burned.  The  story  had  no 
moral,  for  in  the  last  act  the  "  sweet  girl  "  and  her  new- 
made  lord  were  enjoying  great  happiness,  after  the  Japa- 
nese fashion,   notwithstanding  the  murder  of  her  people. 

We  visited  a  museum  of  wax-works,  a  series  of  tableaux 
from  the  life  of  a  Japanese  saint,  or  hermit.  These  we 
found  very  interesting,  both  as  works  of  the  imagination, 
and  in  artistic  treatment,  and  some  of  them  were  startlingly 
life-like. 

The  booths  and  bazaars,  which  line  the  road,  were  filled 
with  the  hundreds  of  trinkets  peculiar  to  the  native's  use; 
while  in  the  little  tea-shops  we  could  obtain  tiny  draughts 
of  the  delicious  beverage,  and  sweetened  rice-cake,  which 
is  so  toothsome  to  the  natives. 

Taking  jinrikishas  early  in  the  morning,  with  sufficient 
help  to  travel  comfortably,  we  set  out  for  Enoshema,  to  see 
the  colossal  bronze  statue  of  Buddha,  the  "  Dai  Butsu," 
near  the  temple  of  Hachiman.  After  a  delightful  ride  over 
a  portion  of  the  "  Trocado,"  the  old  damio  road  to  the  capi- 
tal, over  hills  and  through  valleys,  stopping  at  the  little  tea- 
houses on  the  way,  for  refreshments  and  to  rest  our  men, 
we  finally  arrived  at  the  temple,  which  is  situated  in  large 
grounds  where   priests  are  continually  in  attendance.      The 


JO      An  American   Cruiser  in   the  East 

temple  has  great  altars  and  shrines,  and  contains  many 
specimens  of  beautiful  armor,  swords,  spears,  and  banners, 
ancient  trappings  of  war,  and  many  trophies  which  have 
been  committed  to  the  custody  of  the  god ;  for  this  is  the 
temple  of  Hachiman,  the  war  god.  Hachiman  was  not 
born  until  after  his  mother,  Jingu,  had  subdued  the  Koreans, 
and  placed  her  arrow  over  the  palace  gate  at  Seoul.  After 
examining  the  beauties  of  the  temple  and  the  old  swords 
and  armor,  we  rode  on  another  mile,  which  brought  us  into 


Enoshema,  Japan. 

the  grove  of  old  trees,  through  which,  in  the  distance,  we 
could   see  the  great   image. 

Buddha  sits  alone  upon  his  granite  base,  surrounded  and 
shaded  by  old  forest  trees.  Tradition  says  :  "  He  was  the 
altar-piece  of  a  great  temple  which  flourished  centuries  ago, 
and  fell  into  decay  ;  and  these  great  old  trees  now  shade 
the  form  of  the  '  Dai  Butsu.'  " 

The  statue  is  fifty  feet  high,  and  is  made  of  bright  bronze 
which  is  now  greened   with  ao-e.      It   was  made   in  sections 


Yokohama,  Japan  71 

aud  riveted  together.  The  expression  of  the  face  is  mild 
and  bene\olent,  well  fitted  for  Buddha.  The  sacred  snail 
is  coiled  upon  his  head  to  ward  off  rays  of  the  sun.  He 
holds  the  sacred  lotus  in  each  hand,  and  massive  lanterns 
and  vases  are  placed  before  him.  The  interior  of  the  image 
contains  a  shrine,  and  the  priest  in  attendance  never  tires 
of  narrating  the  traditions  of  Buddha  and  the  temple. 

A  further  ride  of  about  five  miles,  through  a  beautiful 
rolling  country,  brings  us  to  Enoshema,  and  after  a  short 
walk  through  a  dark  grove  of  old  trees  we  are  at  the  cele- 
brated temple  of  the  goddess  "  Benten."  After  inspecting 
the  temple  and  grounds,  and  enjoying  the  magnificent  views 
both  inland  and  seaward,  we  repair  to  the  little  tea-house, 
where  we  enjoy  an  appetizing  luncheon  of  delicious  fish, 
while  watching  the  everlasting  surf  splashing  upon  the 
opposite  beach  of  Katase.  The  journey  back  to  Yoko- 
hama was  verv  enjoyable.  The  evening  was  refreshingly 
cool,  and  the  light  of  the  moon,  breaking  through  the 
trees,  which  line  both  sides  of  the  "  Trocado,"  showed  us 
the  way. 

YOKASUKA 

From  Yokohama,  in  one  of  the  little  steamers  to  Yoka- 
suka,  the  Japanese  Naval  Arsenal,  was  a  very  interesting 
trip,  and  revealed  many  facts  about  these  wonderful  people. 
The  dry  dock  and  slips  for  building  vessels  are  large  and 
well  planned.  Here  we  see  great  vessels,  their  engines, 
boilers,  and  auxiliaries  in  all  stages  of  construction  and 
repair;  and  a  visit  to  this  place  would  awaken  in  any  one 
great  respect  for  these  people,  as  constructing  engineers  and 
mechanics.  To  see  the  begrimed  little  fellows  at  their 
work  of  bending,  framing,  riveting,  or  plating,  attending 
the  shaping  machine,  or  drill  press  ;  at  the  moulding  trough, 
sweeping  up,  or  pouring  the  metal,  —  all  was  a  revelation, 
so  cleverly  did  they  work.      Battle-ships,  cruisers,  and   tor- 


72       An   American   Cruiser   in   the   East 

pedo  vessels,  such  as  any  nation  would  be  proud  to  fly  its 
ensign  upon,  were  in  process  of  construction  or  undergoing 
repairs. 

On  leaving  the  dockyards,  we  strolled  over  to  the  hill 
where  poor  Will  Adams  lies  buried.  Adams  was  an 
Englishman  who  came  here  in  1607  on  a  Dutch  trader. 
The  natives  soon  discovered  that  he  was  able  to  instruct 
them  in  the  art  of  shipbuilding,  and  they  detained  him  in 
the  country.     Spiritless  and  broken-hearted,  without  hope, 


Japanese  Junks. 

with  a  consuming  longing  for  his  far-off  island  home  and 
loved  ones,  he  went  about  his  task  as  best  he  could,  until 
finally  he  drooped  and  died  of  a  broken  heart,  and  was 
buried   in   this   lovely   spot. 

The  Ride  to  Tokio 

The  railroad  travel  from  Yokohama  to  Tokio,  the  capi- 
tal, partly  along  the  bay  shore,  is  through  a  country  of 
varying    scenery,  and   is  full   of  interest.      The   roadway  is 


Yokohama,   Japan  j^ 

about  eighteen  miles  long,  well  made  and  ballasted.  The 
cars  are  luxurious,  and  are  divided  into  compartments  for 
passengers  of  different  classes.  On  leaving  Yokohama, 
the  train  passes  under  the  shadow  of  a  large  temple,  on 
the  suburb,  then  along  the  fishing  village  of  Kanagawa, 
which  was  the  first  designated  place  of  residence  for  for- 
eigners in  Japan.  We  pass  through  the  noted  tobacco- 
fields,  and  through  Tsumi,  where  the  planters  congregate 
and  exchange  experiences  over  their  cup  of  saki.  As  we 
go  by  Kawasaki,  we  see  its  fleets  of  busy  sampans,  and 
later  the  bare  plains  of  Owair,  whose  porcelains  have 
never  been  surpassed.  Through  Kamada,  at  full  speed, 
we  pass  to  Ikegawa,  whose  greatest  treasure  is  the  temple 
of  the  "  Wealth  God,"  old  "  Dai  Koku,"  whose  pictures 
of  the  god,  sitting  on  bags  of  rice  which  rats  are  gnawing, 
remind  us  of  the  famous  Gambrinus  sitting  upon  his  kegs 
of  beer.  In  passing  through  Shinegawa,  we  have  reached 
the  head  of  the  bay,  and  are  at  the  home  of  those  noted 
fish  with  the  wonderful  popping  eyes,  ill-shapen  bodies,  and 
fan-tails.  Soon  we  round  through  the  suburb  of  Tokio, 
passing  Mita  and  Shambashi  on  the  way,  and  have  arrived 
at  the  station   in  Japan's  capital 


CHAPTER   VII 

TOKIO,    THE    CAPITAL 

TOKIO  is  situated  at  the  head  of  Yeddo  Bay,  and 
is  about  ten  miles  square,  containing  about  one 
million  and  a  half  of  inhabitants.  It  is  the  seat  of  the 
Imperial  Government  and  the  residence  of  the  Mikado. 
The  Shiro,  or  palace,  occupies  a  commanding  position,  and 
is  the  most  notable  building  in  the  capital.  It  is  one  of 
the  finest  specimens  of  the  old  feudal  castle  to  be  found  in 
Japan,  and  its  many  stories,  huge  ramparts,  wide  moats, 
and  grove  of  old  trees   make   it  very  attractive. 

Tokio  is  a  busy,  pushing  city,  with  the  hum  and  noises 
of  a  great  metropolis.  The  streets  are  bustling  streams  of 
life  and  animation,  and  are  full  of  novelties.  As  the  people 
are  changing  their  garb  and  customs  for  those  of  the  Euro- 
pean, the  streets  show  many  extremes  and  contradictions. 
The  officials  and  many  private  citizens  wear  garments 
made  in  the  western  fashion,  while  thousands  adhere  to 
the  ancient  dress.  The  gra\'e,  picturesque,  quaint,  and 
grotesque  meet,  crowd,  and  pass  on.  The  jinrikisha  races 
by,  the  street  car  moves  along  the  rails,  and  the  sedan-chair- 
man dodges  under  the  horses'  heads.  A  crowd  of  human 
beings  tug  and  pull  as  they  move  great  loads  on  wheels, 
while  the  stately  coachman  drives  by  in  livery.  The  pul- 
sations of  the  steam-engine  mingle  with  the  sighs  of  the 
poor  coolie  as  he  tries  to  rival  it  in  pounding  rice  into  flour. 
The  dingy  kerosene  lamp  is  beside  the  arc-light.  A  little 
fellow  with  bushy  head,  in  ancient  dress  and  clogs,  passes 
by  the  side  of  one  in  the  latest  tailor-made  garments.      The 


Tokio,   the   Capital 


79 


musiime,  in  bright  kimono  and  handsome  coiffure,  trips 
merrily  by  the  side  of  her  sister  who  is  gowned  in  American 
fashion.  Men  with  bared  heads,  in  dark-blue  coats  and 
tight  pantaloons,  and  little  women  in  demure  kimonos  ;  men 
in  full-dress,  wearing  high  silk  hats,  greeting  others  whose 
only  covering  is  a  coarse  shirt  ;  little  soldiers  in  black  uni- 
forms and  burnished  helmets ;  the  business-like  policeman 
with  sword  by  his  side  ;  the  hurrying  postman  and  the 
clatter  of  the  clogs  upon  the   walks;  the  shuffling  of  the 


Making  Rice  Flour,  Japan. 

throng,  and  the  prattle  and  laughter  of  the  merry  children, 
who  are  playing  along  the  streets;  the  quaint  little  shops, 
with  their  dark-blue  awnings  and  patient  attendants;  the 
little  white-and-black  houses  in  almost  endless  lines,  like 
rows  of  fireproof  safes ;  the  thousands  of  odd,  ugly,  and 
pretty  things  that  we  see  in  shops  or  streets  ;  the  chatting, 
smiling  people  ;  the  lowlv  bows  and  happy,  flowery  salu- 
tations and  greetings  amongst  the  people  ;  and  the  noble- 
man's carriage  at  his  poor  friend's  door,  —  all  help  to  make 


8o       An   American   Cruiser   in   the   East 

up  the  bustle  and   noises,  and   the    contradictions    and   ex- 
tremes of  this  great  city  of  the  Mikado. 

The  Japanese  have  great  appreciation  and  admiration 
of  the  beautiful  in  nature.  They  wander  about  the  coun- 
try in  little  bands,  visiting  some  mountain,  waterfall,  or 
other  beautiful  scenery.  They  are  great  lovers  of  flowers^ 
from  the  blossoms  of  the  early  spring  and  the  roses  to 
the  imperial  chrysanthemum.      In    the  season,  groups  and 


Wistaria. 


crowds  of  old,  middle-aged,  and  young  can  be  seen  strolling 
through  the  gardens,  or  on  the  roads,  admiring  the  blossoms 
of  the  wistaria  or  the  chrysanthemum. 

Even  the  poor  coolie  decorates  his  person,  or  his  sur- 
roundings, with  blossoms,  buds,  or  flowers.  From  plants 
growing  in  a  handful  of  soil,  in  pot  or  box,  to  those  of  the 
garden,  all  are  cared  for  and  nurtured.  The  Japanese  will 
devote  years  to  training  vines  and  growing  flowers,  shrubs, 
and  trees.  The  patience  displayed  is  wonderful,  and  the 
results  of  their  efforts  and   skill    are    the    crosses   and   new 


Tokio,   the   Capital  83 

species  in  flowers  and  shrubs,  and  the  dwarfed  and  twisted 
trees  which  they  so  well  know  how  to  produce,  or  the 
enormous,  overgrown  productions  that  would  astonish  the 
judges  at  one  of  our  county  fairs.  They  can  carry  a  hun- 
dred-year-old tree  in  a  flower-pot,  or  grow  chestnuts  that 
weigh  half  a  pound,  or  potatoes  that  could  not  be  put  into 
an  ordinary  keg. 

The  dwarfing  is  obtained  with  great  patience  and  care 
by  pinching  oft  the  rootlets  week  by  week,  and  rubbing  ofF 
and  trimming  the  ends  of  the  branches  until  the  tree  is 
stunted  and  will  not  measure  over  a  few  inches  in  height ; 
the  other  condition  is  obtained  by  patient  cultivation  and 
forcing.  These  dwarfed  trees  are  planted  on  little  hills  in 
the  gardens,  amongst  rocks,  miniature  rivers,  and  water- 
falls, and  the  effects  are  not  unlike  the  little  artificial  gar- 
dens we   used  to  make  around   our  Christmas  trees. 

A  ride  through  the  beautiful,  picturesque  capital  brings 
us  to  the  suburb  of  Asakusa,  where  we  visit  the  celebrated 
temple  ot  Kwanin,  whose  golden  image  of  the  goddess  was 
found  by  a  fisherman's  net  at  the  bottom  of  the  river.  It 
was  a  fitting  find,  for  Kwanin  is  the  goddess  of  the  sea, 
and  her  temple  is  the  favorite  of  fishermen  and  seafaring 
people,  who  pay  their  devotions  to  her,  to  supplicate  for 
fair  weather  and  prosperous  voyages,  or  to  return  thanks  for 
past  mercies  and  blessings. 

At  all  temples,  the  worshippers  perform  ablution  by 
washing  their  hands  and  mouths  before  entering  the  temple, 
for  which  purpose  large  fonts  or  basins  of  water  are  placed 
in  the  grounds  near  the  entrance.  Each  person  using  the 
water  is  expected  to  deposit  a  small  coin  in  a  box  placed 
conveniently  for  the  purpose.  On  each  side  of  the  entrance 
to  the  temple  is  a  great  red  cage  with  heavy  iron  gratings, 
containing  colossal  guardian  gods,  hideous  and  fierce  fellows, 
whose  terrible  countenances  and  attitudes  seem  to  belie  their 
peaceful  mission  of  receiving  repentant  sinners  and  looking 
after  the  welfare  of  children. 


84      An   American   Cruiser  in   the  East 

Having  purified  himself,  the  worshipper  devoutly  enters 
the  temple  and  selects  the  particular  deity  he  thinks  will 
suit  his  needs.  This  temple  contains  four  shrines  and 
gods,  besides  the  goddess  Kwanin  :  one  makes  fair 
weather  at  sea,  another  gives  a  prosperous  fishing  season 
or  voyage,  a  third  cures  the  stomach-ache,  and  the  fourth  is 
the  patron  of  women  and  girls.  The  votary  pulls  a  bell- 
rope  to  attract  the  attention  of  the  deity  with  whom  he 
wishes  to  commune,  drops  a  coin  into  a  grated  box,  places 
his  hands  together,  and  whispers  his  supplication ;  after 
which,  he  claps  his  hands  to  let  the  god  know  he  has 
finished,  and   retires. 

The  entrance-grounds  to  the  temple  contain  many  hand- 
somely sculptured  stone  lanterns,  several  grim-grinning 
foxes,  and  some  fine  specimens  of  the  Japanese  lion. 
Flocks  of  tame  pigeons  and  doves  swarm  and  coo  about 
the  temple's  eaves  and  grounds,  and  as  they  are  believed 
to  contain  the  spirits  of  the  departed,  they  are  held  sacred. 
Old  women  sell  rice  and  peas,  which  the  pious  purchase 
and   feed  to  the  birds. 

Kwanin,  like  all  temple-grounds,  is  used  for  pleasure  as 
well  as  for  pious  purposes.  The  place  is  crowded  with 
theatres,  shows,  archery-galleries,  tea-booths,  and  exhibitors 
of  wax-works,  some  of  whom  rival  the  famous  Mrs.  Jarley. 
A  large  model  of  the  sacred  mountain,  Fujiyama,  is  visited 
by  hundreds  of  people  who  view  the  city  and  surrounding 
country  from  its  crater.  The  pagoda,  which  is  also  near 
the  temple,  is  approached  by  a  stone  walk,  lined  on  both 
sides  by  gay  little  booths  for  the  sale  of  toys,  ornaments, 
and  refreshments,  where  the  women  and  children  love  to 
loiter  and   wonder  over  the  gaudy  trifles. 

All  the  children  of  Tokio  seem  to  be  here  to-day  ;  the 
din,  chatter,  and  noise  of  these  happy  youngsters  can  only 
be  excelled  by  one  of  our  Fourth  of  July  celebrations  at 
home.      Tin    horns,   fire-crackers,    toy     balloons,    waving 


Tokio,   the   Capital 


87 


flags,  and  grotesque  kites  add   to  the  merriment  and  enjoy- 
ment of  the  young  Japanese  and  his  mother. 

All  Japan  is  a  paradise  for  the  aged  and  the  children. 
Gray  hairs  are  eminently  respectable,  and  great  deference 
is  paid  to  age.  Old  age  and  a  clean,  honorable  life  are 
honored  by  all.  Old  people  are  saluted  in  the  most  re- 
spectful language ;  a  mother's  heart  rejoices  if  an  aged 
person  speaks   kindly  to  her  babe,  and   the  words  are  treas- 


Vegetables  in  Japan. 


ured  as  good  omens  for  the  child.  Children  with  shaven 
heads,  bright  black  eyes,  rosy  brown  cheeks,  clad  in  gowns 
which  almost  reach  to  their  feet,  play  and  frolic  where  they 
will,  in  the  highways  or  quiet  places,  with  ball  or  kite  or  at 
catches.  They  are  never  interfered  with  or  molested. 
There  are  no  displays  of  ill-temper,  or  bad  words,  — 
all  is  hearty  fun  and  frolic.  Even  the  poor  coolie,  with 
his  heavy  burden,  will  go  a  long  way  round  rather  than 
disturb  the  children's  play. 


88       An   American   Cruiser  in  the  East 

Little  companies  of  juvenile  acrobats  travel  about  and 
give  exhibitions  of  their  skill,  wherever  they  meet  children 
at  play.  The  little  acrobats  are  clad  in  dark-blue  tights, 
with  great  red  turbans,  and  just  enough  bright  tint  to  relieve 
the  monotonv  of  the  blue.  They  tumble,  cross,  pile,  and 
roll,  and  perform  a  number  of  very  clever  feats  to  the  sound 
of  a  gourd-like  drum.  At  the  climax  of  each  feat  they  call 
out  "  Hie  !  "  —  "  See  !  "  — as  they  extend  their  tiny  arms 
in   graceful    acknowledgment   of  the    applause ;  and  when 


Japanese  Acrobats. 

thev  have  finished  their  programme,  a  small  contribution  is 
gratifying,  and  thev  move  on  in  quest  of  other  audiences. 
With  all  their  love  for  the  voung,  and  their  beautiful 
wares,  the  Japanese  are  far  behind  the  rest  of  the  world 
in  the  use  of  common  toys  amongst  their  own  children. 
Within  the  exception  of  some  very  poor  specimens  of 
monstrous  cats,  fishes,  flowers,  and  rattles,  I  have  not  seen 
anything  that  was  worthy  of  the  name  of  toy  for  children's. 
use. 


Tokio,   the   Capital 


89 


The  "  wandering  "  candv  manufacturer  is  a  genius,  an 
artist  in  sweets,  and  he  always  succeeds  in  gathering  in  a 
large  number  of  small  coins.  He  moves  from  street  to 
street    with   his   little    stand,   upon    which    is    displayed  his 


Swi  i/rs  AND  Toys. 

stock  of  birds,  fishes,  flowers,  sticks,  and  drops.  One  end 
of  his  stand  is  fitted  with  a  tiny  charcoal  furnace,  above 
which  a  large  basin  of  molten  sugar  is  kept  ready  for  use. 
From  this,  he  forms  into  shape  and  colors  such  articles  as 
mav  be  desired.  Some  beautiful  forms  are  fashioned  from 
the  sweet,  and  it   is   a  pleasure  to  watch   the  clever  fingers 


90      An   American   Cruiser  in   the   East 

in  their  manipulations,  and  the  wide-eyed  youngsters  gazing 
in  astonishment  as  the  work  progresses.  The  candies 
made  of  pure  sugar,  while  beautiful  in  form  and  color,  are 
not  flavored  to  our  taste.  Other  candies  are  made  of 
highly  sweetened  rice-flour,  which  is  also  moulded  into 
beautiful  shapes  and   highly   colored. 

The  juggler  amuses,  and  may  be  called  a  friend  of  the 
children  in  this  beautiful  land.  A  poorly  clad  and  ofttimes 
wretched-looking  man  steps   in  among  a  crowd   of  merry 


Japanese  Jugglers. 

children  at  their  plav,  when,  much  to  the  amusement 
ot  all,  he  will  open  an  umbrella,  perhaps,  and  begin  to 
twirl  it  on  his  wrist.  Suddenly  a  great  ball  is  seen  travel- 
hng  rapidly  over  its  surface  in  the  opposite  direction. 
He  places  a  small  roll  of  paper  in  his  mouth,  and  pro- 
ceeds to  draw  therefrom  marvellous  yards  of  gay-colored 
ribbons;  next,  he  may  draw  a  sword  from  his  girdle, 
give  a  history  of  the  bloody  weapon,  and  with  great 
flourishes  proceed   to  swallow   its  blade.      He  will  plant  .a 


Tokio,   the   Capital 


93 


couple  of  seeds  in  the  ground,  cover  the  spot,  mumble 
some  words,  and  make  some  mimic  passes  over  it,  and 
then  remove  the  covering,  revealing  a  beautiful  plant  in 
flower;  or  he  will  place  a  child  in  a  basket,  thrust  a 
great  two-handed  sword  through  and  through  it,  up  and 
down,  right  and  left,  while  the  screams  and  finally  the 
groans  from  the  child  are  heard.  Then  all  is  quiet, 
the  basket  is  uncovered  and  found 
to  be  empty.  Thus  he  gives  trick 
after  trick,  in  rapid  succession,  until 
his  stock  is  exhausted,  when  he 
solicits  contributions  and 
moves  on, 

A  man  will  be  seen  feel- 
ing his  way  along  in  the 
middle  of  the  road,  blow- 
ing an  occasional  blast  on 
his  little  reed  pipe.  Every 
one  gives  way  to  him,  for 
he  is  blind,  and  his  oc- 
cupation is  to  give  massage 
treatment  to  any  who  need 
his  services.  He  will  pull 
and  pound,  knead  and  rub 
you,  until  every  joint  and 
muscle  of  your  body  aches, 
and  your  skin  rivals  the 
color  of  a  boiled  lobster;  but  the  reaction  soon  comes, 
and  you  feel  like  a  new  person.  This  treatment  is 
thought  to  be  ffood  for  rheumatism  and  some  other  ills 
that  Japanese  believe  themselves  afflicted  with,  and  the  poor 
man  has  a  very  lucrative  occupation,  notwithstanding  his 
apparent   helplessness. 

The  Troubadours  are  usually  from  the  country  districts, 
and  are   dressed    in    quaint    apparel.      They   bear  a   shrine 


Japanese  Troubadours. 


94      An   American   Cruiser  in   the  East 

of  some  celebrated  saint  or  hermit  about  the  city  ;  and 
wherever  they  can  find  an  audience,  they  proceed  to  re- 
cite, in  a  monotonous,  sing-song  fashion,  the  deeds  of  the 
good   man. 

Sheba  and  Uyeno  Parks 

A  ride  through  gay  Tokio,  with  its  beautiful  life  and 
novel  sights,  and  into  the  country  beyond,  where  the  old 
trees  meet  across  the  broad  roadway  and  shut  out  the  sun- 
shine, almost  the  daylight  ;  through  an  open  country  where 
hundreds  of  picturesque  natives  are  at  work  in  their  little 
gardens  ;  over  a  stretch  of  broad  avenue,  hedged  with  hand- 
some stone  fences,  enclosing  green  terraces,  with  fine  old 
trees,  and  a  stream  of  silvery  water  rippling  beside  the  granite 
roadway,  —  brings  us  through  the  suburb  and  into  famous 
Sheba. 

Through  the  dense  shade,  we  behold  the  high,  moss- 
covered  white  walls,  with  their  quaint  scarlet  lacquer  trim- 
mings, sparkling  in  the  subdued  sunshine,  and  the  great 
granite  torii,  with  its  bronze  crests,  standing  in  the  open 
space  before  them  ;  while  just  beyond  is  the  gold  and 
scarlet  black-roofed  gate  that  gives  entrance  to  these  temple- 
grounds  of  the  Tokugawa  Shoguns. 

Having  reached  the  gateway  and  exchanged  our  shoes  for 
straw  slippers,  we  were  ready  to  enter  the  sacred  place. 
The  priest,  our  guide,  conducted  us  into  a  porch  from  which 
we  beheld  a  scene  of  bewildering  splendor,  —  courtyards  and 
groves,  filled  with  beautiful  temples,  tombs,  sculptures,  and 
bronzes,  all  magnificent  examples  of  artistic  handiwork. 
The  ancient  Japanese  hut  and  the  Tartar  tents  are  en- 
larged and  beautified  in  these  wonderful  structures,  which 
glisten  and  sparkle  wherever  a  ray  of  sunshine  strays 
through  the  dense  foliage  and  falls  upon  them.  It  is  a 
strange  order  of  architecture,   pleasing,  bright,  and  warm,- 


Tokio,   the   Capital 


97 


even  in  the  subdued  sunlight,  the  almost  gloaming.  The 
assemblage,  grouping,  and  colors  are  wonderful,  and  one 
stands  at  the  very  threshold  of  all  this  beauty  amazed  at 
the  magnificence. 

The  court  of  each  temple  is  enclosed  with  massive  stone 
railings.  Great  rows  of  sculptured  stone  and  bronze  lan- 
terns, figures  in  bronze  and  iron,  belfries,  sacred  wells,  and 
handsome  gateways,  are  seen    in  bewildering  profusion,  and 


The  Temple  Font  at  the  Shogun  Temples,  Sheba,  near  Tokio, 
Japan. 

the  whole  is  surrounded  by  dense  groves  of  old  fir-trees 
which  add  nature's  covering  to  the  beautiful  scene.  7  he 
massive  temples  are  warm  and  bright  with  gold,  scarlet, 
green,  and  black  lacquers  and  carvings  ;  Tartar-fashioned 
eaves,  tipped,  ringed, and  edged  with  weather-greened  bronze, 
are  placed  under  highly  sculptured  and  massive  black  roofs 
which  form  their  covering,  splendid  and  confusing;  and, 
through  and  over  all,  the  triple  asarum  leaf  is  everywhere 
to  be  seen. 

7 


98      An   American   Cruiser   in   the   East 


A    beautiful  greenish-black    building    is    decorated    with 
carved  panels  in  scarlet,  white,  green,  gold,  and  blue,  which 
form   the    frieze   around   its  sides,     A  space  of  black  wood, 
spotted  with  bright  bronze,  extends  up  to  the  cornice  under 
^    .  the    eaves,    which    is 

I  beautifully  carved  and 
painted,  and  the  great 
dark-bronze  and  gilt 
roof  is  dotted  oxer  with 
the  Shogun's  crest.  A 
flight  of  broad  stone 
steps  leads  to  a  massive 
platform,  upon  which 
eight  white  columns, 
embellished  with  deli- 
cate tracery,  support  a 
great  lintel  which  is 
wrought  in  monstrous 
dragons,  and  banded 
with  greenish-brass, 
the  whole  gi\ing  sup- 
port to  the  bronze, 
tiled  roof.  Two  fierce 
warriors,  in  ancient 
armor  and  armed  with 
bows  and  arrows,  oc- 
cupy niches  in  walls  of  handsomely  carved  flowers,  while 
guarding  the  temples. 

Projecting  capitals  are  formed  by  half-bodies  of  fierce 
monsters  with  outstretched  paws  and  open  mouths,  under 
a  cornice  of  black  and  gold,  from  which  project  other 
gilded  monsters,  with  contracted  brows  and  hideous  mien, 
who  give  support  to  a  beautifully  carved  balcony.  The 
balcony,  a  series  of  little  panels  of  children  romping  among 
vines  and   flowers,  has   columns   extendino;   to  the  roof  and 


Anxiext  Japanese  Armor. 


t,'        P-. 


Toklo,   the   Capital 


lOI 


crowned  with  monstrous  dragon-horses.  In  the  centre,  a 
great  white-and-gold  dragon  is  supported  between  two 
massive  columns;  and  all  around  the  cornice,  and  up  among 
the  rafters,  are  hundreds  of  tierce  dragons  in  threatening 
attitudes. 

A  great  terrace,  within  a  covered  court,  is  enclosed  by 
rich  ffilt  walls  ;  its  polished  black  floors  are  covered  with 
snowy  matting  of  finest  texture  ;  its  altar  and  shrine  are 
rich  in  gilt  and   scarlet  and    black  lacquers  ;  the  ceiling  is 


Temples  of  the  Shoguns  at  Shhua,  xi^ar  Tokio,  Japan. 

wonderfully  carved  and  colored,  while  the  nave  and  chancel 
are  decorated  with  exquisite  carvings  and  gold. 

Another  broad  flight  of  massive  stone  steps  brings  us  to 
a  base  of  immense  granite  slabs,  surrounded  bv  a  handsome 
wall  of  highly  ornamented  stones,  from  which  great  black- 
and-gold  brackets  reach  up  and  support  projecting  gilt 
rafters  that  carry  the  massive  roof;  and  between  them  is  a 
band  of  frieze  of  rich-colored  carvings  in  birds  and  leaves 
and  flowers.  Black  and  white  and  gold  carvings  are  used 
in  profusion  ;    while    the    walls    are   covered    with    delicate 


I02      An   American   Cruiser   in   the   East 

tracery  and  lattice-work,  wrought  in  exquisite  patterns  of 
flowers  and  leaves,  in  whites  and  lilacs,  lavenders,  rose,  and 
gold. 

Ascending  a  bronze  stairwav  to  a  beautiful  lacquered 
platform  of  the  shrine,  which  is  supported  by  four  great 
white  columns,  we  see  monster  dragons  crawling  about 
over  the  doorways,  golden  monsters  frowning  from  the 
roof,  and  monkeys  and  birds  carved  on  the  frieze  and  band 
of  the  temple's  face.     The  interior  recesses  and  panels  are 


Tomb  of  "  Roku  Dai,"  the  Sixth  Tokugawa  Shogun,  Sheba,  near 
ToKio,  Japan. 

filled  with  beautiful  carving  in  bewildering  profusion  ; 
strips  of  white  sacramental  paper,  and  a  sacred  metal- 
mirror  are  suspended  from  the  main  lintel  ;  snow-white 
mats  cover  the  dark,  polished  floor.  Gilt  columns  separate 
the  central  walls,  and  help  support  the  massive  roof,  whose 
ceiling  is  emblazoned  with  conventionalized  carvings  of 
birds   and   flowers,  and   the  crest  of  the  Shoguns. 

It  was  nearly  sunset  as  we  turned  from  this  magnificence 
and   left  the  temples.      Ascending  a   broad   stone  stairway, 


Tokio,   the   Capital  105" 

we  passed  between  two  hideous  stone  lions,  and  entered 
the  famous  bronze  gateway,  turned  short  to  the  right,  and 
were  soon  before  the  tomb  of  Roku  Dai,  the  sixth  Shogun 
of  the  Tokugawa  family.  On  a  stone  table  before  the 
tomb,  are  bright-bronze  storks,  lotus-flowers,  and  yases, — 
ornaments  of  the  Buddhist  faith. 

The  tomb  is  beautiful  in  its  conception  and  its  simplicity, 
—  an  artistic  combination  of  geometric  lines  and  shapes 
which  form  the  Japanese  coyered  bell.  A  base  of  fiye 
massiye,  octagonal,  bronze  steps  gives  support  to  a  domed 
cylinder  that  is  covered  by  a  pyramid,  from  the  top  of 
which  a  forked  flame  shoots  up  and  serves  as  finial.  The 
tomb  is  of  bright-bronze  which  is  now  becoming  green. 
The  triple  asarum  leaf  is  repeated  ten  times  upon  the  beau- 
tiful bronze  doors  of  the  tomb  which  contains  the  ashes  of 
Roku  Dai. 

Retracing  our  steps  a  short  distance,  and  ascending  a 
slimy,  moss-covered  old  stairway,  we  pass  along  the  great 
stone  salleries  until  we  reach  the  tombs  of  all  the  old  kings 
of  Japan,  before  which  stand  rows  of  bronze  incense-burners 
and  gigantic  storks  ;  but  these  tombs  are  insignificant  when 
compared  with  the  tombs  of  the  Shoguns. 

On  our  way  out  of  the  grounds  we  looked  through  the 
lattice  of  the  dancing  temple.  A  great  black  shadow  fell 
across  the  floor,  but  the  lithe  form  of  the  "  woman  in 
white  "   had   vanished   in  the  darkness. 

Some  of  these  temples  are  Shinto,  and  some  are  Bud- 
dhist. The  Shinto,  "  way  of  the  gods,"  is  the  ancient 
religion  of  Japan,  and  is  now  the  official  religion  of  the 
country.  Tt  is  founded  on  relationship  and  duties,  ances- 
tral worship  and  nature.  Its  service  is  spiritual  and  cere- 
monious, no  sound  being  heard  in  the  temple,  where  there 
is  neither  decoration  nor  color,  the  white  sacramental  paper 
and  the  sacred  metal  mirror  being  the  only  ornaments. 
The   temples   are   reproductions    of  the    ancient    Japanese 


io6      An   American    Cruiser  in   the   East 


hut  of  unpainted  woods  with  thatched  roof, — the  homes 
of  the  spirits  of  ancestors.  The  Buddhist  temples  are  rich 
in  decoration  and  colors,  shrines  and  drums  and  bells ;  and 
rows  of  low  stools,  containing  scrolls  of  the  law,  are  placed 
for  the  convenience  of  the  devout. 

We  devoted  three  davs  to  the  Museum  and  the  Zoologi- 
cal and  Botanical  gardens,  which  are  filled  with  most  inter- 
esting specimens,  and  are  cared  for  bv  gentlemen  who  are 
hiwhlv  cultured  in  science  and  art.      The  pleasure  and  profit 


A  Japanese  School. 

of  our  visits  were  greatly  enhanced  by  conversations  and 
discussions  with   these  enthusiastic  scientists. 

The  imposing  buildings  of  the  Imperial  University  are 
grouped  near  the  Botanical  Garden,  where  professors  and 
students  have  the  benefit  of  museum  and  garden,  for  study 
and  recreation. 

Japan  has  made  wonderful  strides  in  educational  lines  as 
well  as  in  other  directions.  Her  system  of  free  schools 
range  from  the  Primary  Department,  through  all  grades,  to 
the    University.      Separate  schools   are  maintained    for  the 


Tokio,   the   Capital 


107 


nobilitv,  and  all  male  students  are  required  to  wear  a  white 
linen  cap  with  the  Emperor's  crest  upon  it. 

The  people  of  Japan  are  good-natured,  flowery,  and 
respectful  in  their  address.  When  speaking  of  themselves, 
they  are  depreciatory  and  humble. 

The  Club  and  hotels  of  Tokio  are  conveniently  located 
and  are  managed  in  the  European  style.  Any  one  can  be 
as  comfortably  housed  and  as  well  cared  for  there  as  any- 
where in  the  world. 


Japanesk  Wrestlers. 

We  visited  a  colony  of  wrestlers  near  the  Ragoku  Bashi. 
Gay  banners,  standards  and  flags  were  floating  in  the  chilly 
breezes.  The  sounds  of  clapping  hands  and  the  "Hie! 
Hie  !  "  voices  from  the  interior  of  the  tent  attracted  our 
attention  and  excited  our  curiositv.  After  settling  for  the 
admission,  we  entered  the  tent.  The  tent  is  held  in  place 
by  a  framework  of  bamboo,  and  is  large  enough  to  shelter 
several  thousand  people.  The  ring  in  the  centre  of  the 
tent  is  about  twelve   feet   in   diameter,  is   filled  with  black 


io8      An   American   Cruiser  in   the   East 

earth,  and  is  formed  by  bags  of  rice  arranged  in  a  square 
about  twenty  feet  on  each  side. 

There  is  a  red  pole  at  each  corner  of  the  pavilion,  before 
which  a  judge,  in  black  kimono,  is  seated.  The  umpire, 
decked  in  ancient  costume,  asserts  his  importance  by  shrill 
screeches,  while  the  spectators,  smoking  their  tiny  pipes, 
sit  upon  the  ground  or  on  the  platforms,  which  are 
arranged  around  the  rino-  much  after  the  fashion  of  the 
seats   at  our  circuses. 

The  wrestlers  squat  around  the  pavilion,  outside  of  the 
ring.  They  are  entirely  naked,  with  the  exception  of  a 
band  of  silk  about  four  inches  wide,  which  is  fastened 
around  the  waist,  passing  between  the  legs,  and  tied  at  the 
back,  leaving  a  fringe  to  hang  over  the  thighs. 

Two  of  them  enter  the  ring  and  are  received  with  great 
applause.  What  giants  they  are  !  They  gulp  down  great 
swallows  of  water  from  buckets  con\'eniently  placed  in 
the  pavilion.  They  squirt  the  water  into  the  air,  and 
it  falls  back  upon  their  naked  bodies  in  a  sprav.  They 
wipe  themselves  down  with  sheets  of  paper,  and  then 
begin  to  strut  and  pound  upon  their  chests  with  their 
great  fists.  They  slap  their  thighs,  strike  out  with  their 
legs,  and  bring  their  feet  down  with  an  energv  that  shakes 
the  ground. 

One  old  Chinaman,  who  should  have  been  preparing  for 
a  better  world,  was  busy  taking  all  the  bets  that  offered, 
and  he  was  well  patronized. 

After  this  display,  thev  take  places  on  opposite  sides  of 
the  ring,  bow  to  the  umpire,  judges,  and  audience,  then  sit 
on  their  heels  and  stare  each  at  his  opponent.  They  then 
approach  the  centre  of  the  ring,  bend  over,  place  their  great 
fists  on  the  ground,  and  glare  defiance  at  each  other.  The 
wrestlers  next  rub  themselves  down  with  dirt  from  the  ring, 
where  they  squat  and  glare  at  each  other  again.  When 
the  signal    is    given   to   close,  they  crouch  like  beasts,  and 


Toklo,   the   Capital 


109 


$ 


spring  together.  Each  tries  to  grasp  the  belt  of  his  antago- 
nist. They  clutch  each  other.  The  great  bunches  of  fat 
are  crowded  into  great  hills  of  muscle. 

Mammoth,  overfed,  shapeless,  nude  human-brutes,  cling- 
ing, pushing,  pulling,  and  crowding,  each  endeavoring  to 
overcome  the  other  bv  mere  weight !  Their  arms  and  legs 
become  like  great  chunks  of  iron.  They  qui\er,  and  one 
has  grasped  the  waistband  of  the  other,  lifts  the  great  beast 
as  if  he  were  a  child,  and  throws 
him  over  the  ring.  There  he 
drops  with  a  dull  thud,  as  if  an 
elephant  had  fallen.  What  a  pan- 
demonium! How  the  crowd  veils  ! 
The  umpire  franticallv  beats  his 
fan  upon  his  hand  and  screams 
out  the  name  of  the  victor. 
defeated  walks  off"  wit 
ashamed  face.  The  victc 
squats  in  the  centre  of  tht 
ring,  while  the  umpire 
proclaims  him  success- 
ful and  awards  the  silk 
apron  embroidered  in 
gold. 

The  victor  and  his 
followers  march  off^  in 
triumph.  Then  another 
couple  appear,  and  a  similar  struggle  ensues.  Some  of 
these  matches  are  settled  in  about  a  minute,  while  others 
are  so  well  contested  that  they  last  for  half  an  hour. 

These  games  are  about  as  dangerous  as  football  with  us. 
It  is  a  common  occurrence  for  these  people  to  have  ribs, 
arms,  and  legs  broken,  and  sometimes  a  skull  is  cracked. 
There  is  no  hitting  or  striking ;  the  work  is  done  by 
pushing,  pulling,   clutching,   and  throwing. 


Japanese  \\'restlers. 


1 1  o      An   American   Cruiser   in   the   East 

The  training  and  methods  of  these  wrestlers  are  entirely 
different  from  those  of  our  athletes.  They  eat  and  drink 
large  quantities  of  meat  and  beer,  —  an\  thing  and  every- 
thing that  will  increase  their  weight.  Many  of  them 
weigh  from  two  to  three  hundred  pounds,  and  their  muscles 
are  hard  and  firm,  although  their  bodies  are  so  large. 
Wrestling  matches  have  been  favorite  games  in  Japan  from 
the  earliest  times,  and  wrestlers  did  great  ser\  ice  for  the 
feudal  lords  in  ancient  days. 


A  Lotus  Field. 


Muscle  still  tells  in  this  land,  where  the  work  of  beasts 
of  burden  is  done  bv  men,  and  athletes  still  have  their  place 
as  workers,  but  they  are  no  longer  useful  as  military  bullies. 
Rapid-tire  guns  and  rifles  have  settled  all  that,  and  their 
occupation   is  gone. 

The  next  day  a  pleasant  dri\  e  brought  us  to  the  Botani- 
cal Gardens,  where  we  were  curious  to  learn  about  the 
flora  of  these  islands.      The   oak,  elm,  beech,  birch,  laurel. 


Tokio,   the   Capital  1 1 1 

mulberry,  walnut,  chestnut,  bamboo,  pine  and  palm  in 
many  varieties,  the  wild  plum,  cherry,  cycods,  hydrangeas, 
azaleas,  camellia,  camphor,  poppy,  tea-bush,  shepherd's  purse, 
monkshood,  dandelion,  yiolet,  lotus,  mistletoe,  rose,  wista- 
ria, chrysanthemum,  celandine,  chickweed,  mallow,  plan- 
tago,  golden-rod,  thistle,  dock,  burdock,  burweed,  loquat, 
cotton,  yam,  vegetable  wax,  yarnish  plant,  rice,  sesame,  and 
tobacco  are  all  well  known. 

The  well-known  birds  are  the  pheasant,  snipe,  woodcock, 
wild-duck,  wild-goose,  stork,  tit,  crow,  shirkie,  wagtail, 
jay,  owl,  finch,  earget.  Our  inxestigations  were  cut  short 
by  a  low,  rumbling  noise.  The  building  seemed  to  heave 
with  the  undulating  motions  of  a  ship  at  sea,  then  all  was 
quiet  again.  The  phenomenon  was  of  only  a  very  i'ew 
seconds'  duration,  but  it  was  quite  long  enough  to  convince 
us  that  we  had  experienced  the  shock  of  an  earthquake.  It 
was  a  small  affair,  however,  and  there  was  no  material 
damage  done. 

Japan  is  a  land  of  earthquakes.  It  experiences  about 
five  hundred  shocks  every  year,  and  on  many  occasions 
some  parts  of  the  country  have  been  severely  shaken 
up.  At  times,  great  cities  are  shaken  and  rocked  like 
rafts  upon  the  ocean.  There  is  a  great  strain,  as  if 
the  internal  pressure  had  overcome  the  imprisoning 
earth,  and  the  surrounding  country  is  made  to  oscillate 
violently.  Slighter  shakings  on  the  surface,  with  crum- 
blings  and  underground  noises,  follow,  until  finally  this 
dies  away,  though  perfect  quiet  and  relief  may  not  be 
obtained  for  months.  In  such  years,  an  additional  five 
hundred  or  more  shakings  are  added  to  the  average  five 
hundred. 

When  earthquakes  are  not  felt,  the  country  is  threatened 
with  volcanoes,  and  a  terrible  eruption  may  take  place  at 
any  time,  and  without  warning.  On  the  15th  July,  1888, 
an  eruption  took  place  on  the  grass-co\'ered  Bandaisan,  and 


I  1 2      An   American   Cruiser   in   the   East 

in  less  than  fifteen  minutes  more  than  a  hundred  and  fifty- 
square  miles  of  country  were  buried  beneath  a  hundred  feet 
depth  of  earth.  The  labor  of  years  was  wiped  out. 
Villao;es  and  farms  were  buried,  and  about  six  hundred 
people   lost  their   lives. 

There  are  three  well-known  lines  through  which  the 
subterranean  forces  act.  The  first  of  these  comes  from 
Kamtchatka,  through  the  Kural  Islands,  Yesso,  and  Nippon, 
where  it  is  met  bv  a  second  line,  almost  at  right  angles, 
which  runs  through  the  Bonin  Islands  to  the  Ladrones  in  the 
Pacific  Ocean.  The  third  line  comes  from  the  Philippines, 
through  Formosa  to  the  centre  of  Kinshin,  where  it  termi- 
nates in  the  volcano  Assan,  whose  crater  is  ten  miles  in 
diameter. 

Severe  earthquakes  are  as  frequent  in  the  middle  of  Japan, 
where  there  are  no  volcanoes,  as  in  other  parts  of  the 
country.  They  are  more  frequent  along  the  eastern  coast, 
and  do  not  come  from  \'olcanoes,  neither  do  they  seem  to 
have  any  relationship  with  volcanic  action  as  displayed  at 
craters.  The  latest  supposition  concerning  the  cause  of 
these  mighty  upheavals  attributes  them  to  the  vapor  of 
water. 

Water  is  supposed  to  soak  downwards  to  the  heated 
regions,  and  the  resulting  steam  is  the  motive-force  of  the 
volcano  and  the  earthquake.  The  fact  that  many  earth- 
quakes occur  in  \olcanic  countries  near  the  ocean,  where 
both  moisture  and  heat  are  present,  seems  to  support  the 
theory,  —  notably,  the  frequent  changes  and  eruptions  at 
Bogaslov  in  the  Aleutian  group.  There  appears  to  be 
a  complexity  of  causes  which  may  enter  into  the  production 
of  earthquakes,  and  the  proper  investigation  of  them  may 
lead  to  foretelling  the  advent  of  these  terrible  phenomena. 

One  of  the  latest  great  disturbances  in  Japan  was  on  the 
28th  October,  189 1,  about  six  o'clock  in  the  morning,  in 
the   prefectures   of  Aichi   and    Gifu.      In   an   area   of  over 


Toklo,   the  Capital 


113 


four  thousand  two  hundred  square  miles  the  destruction  of 
buildings  and  great  engineering  works  was  complete ;  and 
stone  and  brick  buildings  were  affected  over  an  area  exceed- 
ing twenty-four  thousand  square  miles,  while  the  shocks 
were  distinctly  felt  from  Sundai  to  Nagasaki,  an  area  exceed- 
ing ninety-two  thousand  square  miles.  There  are  neither 
volcanoes  nor  volcanic  rocks  about  Gifu,  the  plain  being  a 
bed  of  alluvium  lying  in  a  basin  of  paleozoic  hills.      It  was 


In  a  Japanese  Rice-Field. 

in  these  hills  that  the  disturbance  had   its  origin,  and  earth- 
quakes have  been  frequent  in  this  place. 

The  surgical  report  upon  the  effects  of  this  earthquake 
states  that :  "  One  thousand  one  hundred  and  fifty  cases 
were  treated,  mostly  simple  and  compound  fractures,  es- 
pecially of  the  spine  and  pelvis.  A  great  number  of  wounds 
in  consequence  of  neglect  were  dirty  and  suppurating  ;  some 
were  covered  with  maggots.  Numbers  of  the  patients  were 
feverish  and  suffering  from  tetanus  and  erysipelas,  but  by 
strong    antiseptic    treatment  and    care,  good    results   were 

8 


I  ]  4      An   American   Cruiser   in   the   East 

obtained,  and  only  four  out  of  the  1150  died.  These 
patients  were  treated  and  cared  for  by  members  of  the  Red 
Cross  Society,  medical  officers  from  the  Hospital  of  the 
Imperial  University,  and  doctors  from  the  Imperial  House- 
hold, the  Naval  and  iVIilitary  Departments,  and  from  the 
missions." 

The  hospital  in  which  these  unfortunates  were  treated 
was  constructed  from,  and  upon,  the  ruins  of  fallen  houses, 
and  the  report  further  says  :  "  The  result  of  nervous 
excitement  showed  itself  in  the  form  of  tetanus,  spinal,  and 
other  troubles  rather  than  in  any  general  mental  paralysis, 
.  .  .  The  fact  that  Japanese  are  less  nervous  and  excitable 
than  Europeans  may  be  partly  accounted  for,  perhaps,  by 
the  fact  that  the  former  nation  has  been  cradled  amongst 
earthquakes  and  xolcanoes,  the  manifestations  ot  which  rank 
amongst  the  greatest  of  nature's  terrors." 

I  received  an  invitation  for  the  loth,  to  attend  a  gather- 
ing in  the  gardens  of  the  Emperor's  Palace  at  Asakusa,  in 
Tokio,  to  view  the  imperial  chrysanthemums.  Our  party 
left  Yokohama  in  the  morning,  and  arrived  at  the  capital 
in  time  to  drive  to  the  hotel,  take  a  hasty  luncheon,  don 
our   uniforms,   and   reach   the   palace. 

After  driving  through  the  city  at  a  rapid  pace,  we 
reached  an  open,  rolling  countrv,  through  which  winds 
the  Imperial  roadway.  This  road  was  kept  clear  of  traffic 
for  a  mile  or  more  from  the  palace  entrance.  At  short 
distances,  a  soldier,  clad  in  blue  uniform  with  scarlet 
trimmings,  stood  statue-like  at  "  attention,"  and  only  re- 
laxed from  this  position  to  salute  the  occupants  of  each 
carriage,  as  it  passed,  bearing  the  guests  of  his  master. 
The  road  is  broad,  finely  made,  and  hard,  bordered  on  both 
sides  by  great  old  trees,  whose  branches  meet  overhead 
and   shut   out   both   the  sunshine  and   the   rain. 

As  we  wound  onward  and  upward,  the  scene  became 
gayer  and    more  animated.      Lines  of  handsome  equipages, 


Tokio,   the   Capital  117 

whose  prancing  steeds  dashed  fire  from  their  heels  upon 
the  hardened  road,  bore  grave  ministers  of  state,  ambas- 
sadors, and  representatives  from  all  the  civilized  nations 
of  the  earth,  clad  in  handsome  uniforms,  and  escorting 
fair  women,  to  the  Emperor's  reception.  After  a  hard  ride 
of  nearly  an  hour,  we  reached  the  entrance  and  left  our 
carriages  under  cover  of  an  exquisite  little  Japanese  house, 
whose  architecture,  finish,  and  decorations  are  marvellous 
even   in  this  land  of  beautiful  things. 

After  presenting  our  cards,  we  were  ushered  into  the 
presence  of  the  Minister  of  the  Imperial  Household  (repre- 
senting the  Emperor),  who  was  surrounded  by  gentlemen- 
in-waiting,  and,  near  by,  a  host  of  servants.  We  were 
each  presented  to  the  Minister,  who  said  some  kind  things 
about  our  country  and  the  President,  and  expressed  the  hope 
that  our  visit  to  Japan  would  be  pleasant  and  profitable. 

The  Minister  and  gentlemen  wore  black  frock-coats, 
light-colored  trousers,  and  each  wore  the  button  of  his 
order  of  nobility.  The  servants  were  bright  in  blue  cut- 
away coats,  with  bright  yellow  facings,  black  knee-breeches, 
white  hose,  and  shiny  leather  shoes  with  great  silver  buckles  ; 
a  chapeau  under  the  left  arm. 

We  loitered  awhile,  with  some  British  naval  friends, 
to  admire  the  beauty  and  exquisite  taste  displayed  in  this 
little  entrance-house,  where  everything  was  charming. 

The  walls  were  covered  with  a  rich  rose-drab,  difficult 
to  describe,  more  difficult  to  imitate,  and  so  effective  as  to 
linger  in  one's  memory  like  a  pleasant  dream.  The  floor 
was  inlaid  with  hard  woods,  in  simple  but  elegant  designs 
and  colors,  and  the  walk  over  it  was  laid  with  a  broad  rich 
velvet  carpet  in  bright  colors. 

As  we  strolled  along  towards  the  chrysanthemums, 
through  park  and  garden,  we  saw  much  to  admire  and  to 
astonish  us  :  a  cluster  of  trees  so  grouped  that  their  com- 
mingling colors  of  greens  and  reds  and  browns  appear  like 


I  1 8      An   American    Cruiser   in   the   East 

a  huge  bouquet  in  the  autumn  light  ;  a  pond,  a  quaint 
little  lake  of  sparkling  water,  with  its  sportive  gold  and 
silver  fishes,  with  great  popping  eves  and  fan-tails  ;  yonder 
a  lawn,  so  smooth  and  so  green  it  would  tempt  a  tennis- 
player  to  brave  the  anger  of  the  guards  to  play  upon  it ; 
a  great  waterfall,  crashing  and  roaring  as  its  mad  waters 
dash  into  the  pool  below ;  and  beautiful  old  trees  and 
shrubs  and  bushes  everywhere.  At  every  corner  of  the 
walk  and  bend  in   the  road   stood  a  member  of  the  house- 


Ramboo  Grove  at  Fukiagu,  Tokio,  Japan. 

hold  guards,  clad  in  black  uniform  and  polished  steel  .helmet, 
at  "attention."  These  soldiers  neither  bend  nor  salute,  but 
stand  like  black  statues    to  ornament  the  grounds. 

When  we  reached  the  pavilion,  the  bands  were  dis- 
coursing sweet  music, —  a  selection  from  the  opera  of  the 
"Bohemian  Girl."  Brave  men  and  fair  women  were 
promenading,  admiring  the  chrvsanthemums  or  expectantly 
awaiting  the  coming  of  the  Emperor.  Two  gayly  deco- 
rated  pavilions   had   been    erected   on   a   commanding   emi- 


Tokio,   the   Capital  1 1  9 

nence  in  the  garden,  —  one  for  the  use  of  the  Emperor,  and 
the  other  for  the  exhibition  of  the  chrysanthemums. 

While  we  exchanged  greetings  with  friends  and  enjoyed 
the  magnificent  sights  about  us,  the  bands  finished  their 
selection  and  commenced  playing  the  Japanese  National 
Air.  Couriers  were  approaching  in  great  state,  bowing 
low  as  they  cleared  the  way.  After  them  came  the 
gentlemen-in-waiting,  and   soon  the  Emperor. 

The  Emperor  was  clad  in  the  undress  uniform  of  a 
general,  and  walked  with  a  firm,  stately  tread,  indicative 
of  good  health  and  power,  and  looked  every  inch  the 
ruler.  The  Empress,  dressed  in  a  magnificent  yellow 
satin  gown  of  western  fashion,  came  next  after  the  Em- 
peror, and  she  was  followed  by  the  Princesses  and  ladies  of 
the  court,  each  magnificently  gowned  in  satins  of  western 
fashion.  After  the  ladies  came  the  notables  of  the  Empire, 
ministers  of  State,  judges  of  the  Supreme  Court,  generals, 
admirals,  and  other  dignitaries  in  order  of  their  rank. 

As  the  Emperor  approached,  we  all  gathered  on  the 
roadside  and  remained  uncovered,  until  the  party  had 
passed  by,  when  we  joined  it.  The  Emperor  is  a  great 
lover  of  flowers,  and  led  the  way  to  the  pavilion  contain- 
ing the  chrysanthemums.  This  particular  flower  is  his 
family  crest,  and,  as  may  be  imagined,  the  display  was 
exceptionally  fine  and  beautiful  for  the  Imperial  inspection. 
The  chrysanthemums  were  in  great  variety  of  form,  size, 
and  color,  from  the  smallest  imaginable  to  a  gigantic  size, 
plain,  curly,  and  feathery  ;  ranging  through  all  the  colors 
of  the  rainbow,  from  the  "  rival  of  snow  "  to  golds  and  reds 
and  blues  and  pinks,  with  many  intermediate  shades  and 
blendings. 

When  the  flowers  had  been  sufficiently  admired,  the 
Emperor  led  the  way  to  a  large  pavilion  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  roadway,  where  an  elegant  luncheon  was 
served.      The   Emperor   and   the   Empress   were    seated   at 


1 20      An  American   Cruiser  in   the  East 


a  table  at  the  head  of  the  pavilion,  and  the  Princesses  sat 
facing  them.  Below  this  point  a  long  table  extended  to 
the  extreme  end  of  the  pavilion,  and  there  were  numerous 
small  tables  on  the  green,  just  outside  of  the  enclosure. 

Our  places  were  at  the  long  table,  quite  near  the  Em- 
peror, who  was  evidently  gratified,  and  enjoyed  the  beauti- 
ful scene  fully  as  much  as  any  of  his  guests.  Sitting  here 
in  such  presence  and  with  such  surroundings,  I  could  but 
think  of  the  wonderful  changes  this  great  man  has  wrought 


Chrysanthemums. 

in  this  fair  land  and  its  people.  Within  the  years  that  I 
have  lived,  the  person  of  this  man,  whose  guests  we  are, 
was  considered  too  sacred  for  mortal  eyes  to  gaze  upon. 
No  foreigner  and  very  few  natives  could  have  access  to 
him, —  to  look  upon  him  was  punishable  bv  death.  He 
lived  in  seclusion,  surrounded  by  his  court,  the  source  of 
all  honor  and  power,  without  actual  knowledge  of  his  peo- 
ple or  their  needs.  Another,  even  mightier  than  he,  by 
inherited    usurpation,  administered   the   active   duties  ot   the 


Tokio,   the   Capital  123 

Empire.  But  this  great  Emperor,  when  only  a  boy  in 
years,  tore  away  the  traditions  that  had  hedged  about  his 
family  for  the  two  thousand  years  or  more  that  they  haye 
ruled  Japan.  When  the  Tartars  conquered  China,  his 
family  was  an  old  reigning  one  in  this  country.  He  has 
wiped  out  feudalism,  changed  the  entire  social  system,  gi\en 
his  people  a  constitutional  goyernment ;  made  the  practice  of 
religion  free  ;  established  a  free  public-school  system,  where 
rich  and  poor  can  receiye  a  liberal  education  ;  encouraged 
and  extended  railroads,  workshops,  and  electric  plants ; 
opened  up  mines ;  extended  industries  and  enlarged  com- 
merce until  the  flag  of  Japan  is  seen  in  e\ery  eastern  port. 
He  has  made  his  army  and  his  nayy  the  most  powerful  in 
the  far  East,  and  watches  oyer  all  with  jealous  care,  seeking 
always  for  the  best  in  personnel  and  material  ;  and  should  the 
time  eyer  come  for  Japan  to  defend  herself,  it  will  be  a 
woful  day  for  her  enemy,  come  from  whateyer  quarter  he 
may.  Such  is  the  \york  of  this  great  Emperor,  who  sits 
with  us,  in  his  scarlet  blouse  and  blue  trousers,  sipping  a 
cup  of  tea. 

Perhaps  I  should  not  haye  intruded  my  thoughts  here,  as 
my  intention  was  to  describe  the  garden  party,  but  the 
greatness  of  this  man  fills  me  with  enthusiasm,  and  oyer- 
shadows  the  simple  story.  I  cannot  help  contrasting  the 
history  of  Japan  as  I  haye  read  it,  and  the  country  and  the 
people  as  I  knew  them  twenty  \ears  ago,  \yith  the  Japan  of 
to-day  as  this  great  Emperor  is  shaping  it. 

The  rain  that  had  been  threatening  all  day  commenced 
to  fall  in  gentle  patter  upon  the  payilion  roof,  and  about 
the  same  time  the  Imperial  party  arose  from  their  seats, 
which  of  course  was  the  signal  for  all  to  follow,  and  we 
were  soon  outside  of  the  gardens,  racing  through  the  rain 
towards  our  hotel.  Later  in  the  eyening  we  took  the  train 
for  Yokohama,  yery  tired  but  greatly  pleased  with  the  day's 
experiences. 


Shimonoseki,  the  Entrance  to  the  Inland  Sea  of  Japan. 


CHAPTER   VIII 


KOBE,    JAPAN 


ON  the  next  afternoon  we  sailed  for  Kobe,  where  we 
arrived  on  the  second  day.  We  kept  as  close  to  the 
shore  as  possible,  and  had  the  full  benefit  of  the  beautiful 
scenery.  Terraced  hills,  valleys,  and  picturesque  villages  that 
are  scattered  along  the  land  varied  the  scene  and  delighted 
the  eye.  All  about  us,  the  little  fishing-boats  were  sailed, 
sculled,  or  worked  about  in  such  manner  as  to  compel  us 
to  pick  our  way,  while  the  mischievous  boatmen  seemed  to 
enjoy  getting  under  our  bows,  and  forcing  us  to  change  our 
course.  The  little  shock-haired,  browned  fishermen  would 
dip  their  colors  and  cheer  us  on  every  hand.  The  trip  was 
more  like  an  ovation  than  the  dignified  passage  of  a  man-of- 
war,  and  I  ha\e  no  doubt   that  these   good   people   remem-' 


Kobe,   Japan 


125 


bered  the  old  ship  and  were  glad  to  see  her  again,  expressing 
their  pleasure  in  this  boisterous  manner. 

Kobe  and  Hvogo  adjoin  each  other^  and  are  situated  on 
the  Idzuminada,  at  the  entrance  to  the  beautiful  Inland  Sea, 
Both  cities  face  the  land-locked  bav,  stretch  along  its  shores 
tor  about  three  miles,  extend  inland  tor  about  a  mile  to  a 
range  of  lofty  hills,  where  thev  struggle  up  for  a  little  dis- 
tance, then  lose  themselves  under  the  almost  perpendicular 
heights,  whose  tops  form  the  beautiful  plains  of  Arima. 


'The  Falls"  at  Kobe,  Japan. 

The  foreign  settlement,  at  Kobe,  is  governed  by  a  Gov- 
ernor and  a  Council,  composed  of  all  the  foreign  Consuls, 
and  three  members  elected  by  the  property-holders.  The 
settlement  is  well  laid  out  with  wide,  clean  roads,  and  is 
lighted  with  gas  and  electricitv.  The  water-front  is  pro- 
tected by  a  massive  stone  wall,  which  extends  the  whole 
length  of  Kobe,  and  behind  this  is  a  handsome  road  and 
driveway  called  the  Bund.  The  landing  is  at  the  foot  of 
massive  stone  steps,   situated   nearly    in    front  of  the   mid- 


126      An   American   Cruiser   in   the   East 

die  of  the  settlement.  The  foreign  houses  are  large  and 
airy,  being  built  of  bricks  covered  with  mortar,  tinted  in 
some  pleasing  shade,  and  they  are  surrounded  by  handsome 
grounds.  Many  of  these  houses  face  the  Bund  and  water- 
front, and  add  to  the  beauty  of  the  scene. 


Hyogo-Kobe,  Japan 

The  old  native  town  of  Hyogo  is  separated  from  Kobe 
by  the  river  Minato,  a  narrow  mountain  stream  spanned  by 
a  substantial  stone  bridge.  Hyogo  was  not  opened  to 
foreign  trade  until  1892,  when  it  was  declared  to  be  a  part 
of  Kobe. 

Hyogo  is  a  very  interesting  town, 
where  we  see  a  busy,  thriving  native 
population,  who  are  not  much  influ- 
enced by  foreigners.  Walks  through 
its  streets  and  glimpses  of  its  gav, 
open  shops  and  little  manufac- 
tories are  entertaining  and  instruc- 
tive. Everything  is  so  novel  and 
so  different  from  what  we  have 
seen  in  the  other  cities  and  towns. 
The  wares,  the  shapes,  and  the 
colors  have  been  made  to  suit  the 
native  taste  and  use.  Quaint  and 
strange-shaped  bowls  and  dishes, 
plaques,  and  tinv  cups,  in  odd 
pieces  and  in  sets  of  two,  confront 
us  in  the  shops,  —  Liliputian  saki- 
bottles,  in  blue  and  white,  or  uglv 
browns  and  greens ;  wide-mouthed 
vases,  with  chrysanthemum-like  top 
broader  than  the  base,  and  scalloped  around  the  edges 
like  the  teeth  of  a   saw ;    wrouo;ht-iron  tea-kettles,  beauti- 


Japanese  Wood-Pedler. 


Kobe,  Japan 


129 


fully  inlaid  with  silver  filigree  work,  representing  vines, 
monsters,  or  gods  ;  brass  kettles,  that  have  been  pounded 
into  shape,  then  chased  and  graven ;  hair-pins,  and  the 
scores  of  knick-knacks  that  women  use  in  their  hair ; 
bows  of  blue,  or  pink,  or  red,  to  give  brightness  to  the 
kimono ;  mirrors  in  metal  and  in  glass  ;  hundreds  of  cheap 
prints,  novels,  and  fairy  tales  ;  queer-looking  and  queer- 
tasting  cakes  and  jellies,  and  great  chunks  of  sweets,  and 
nameless  toys  ;   cats  and   do2;s,  that   might  scare  the  crows 


Japanese  Fruit  Shop. 

from  a  field,  and  cocks  that  are  just  true  enough  to  nature 
to  have  a  place  in  a  collection  ;  radishes  that  are  two 
feet  long;  tomatoes,  potatoes,  and  chestnuts  that  would 
easily  take  the  prizes  at  our  country  fairs;  old  oak-trees 
that  you  could  put  into  your  coat-pocket,  and  hundreds 
of  queer  and  odd  things  made  for  the  every-day  use  of 
the  natives. 

Beyond,  and  away  from  these  streets  of  shops  and  trade, 
we  come  to  other  streets  and  roads  just   as   full  of  people, 

9 


130      An   American   Cruiser  in  the  East 

who  are  moving  to  and  from  the  temples.  The  temple 
of  Shinkoji  has  a  very  large  bronze  Buddha,  which  is 
placed  in  front  of  the  building,  where  he  smiles  upon  all 
who  pass  up  or  down  the  road,  and  no  toll-keeper  collects 
more  willing  contributions  than  does  this  silent  pile  of 
bronze.  Poor  indeed  is  the  man,  woman,  or  child  who 
can  pass  by  that  face  and  not  drop  a  cash  or  more.  There 
is  a  curious  old  monumental  stone  in  the   courtyard,  which 


Dry  Giions  Siioi',   Kobe,  Japan. 

declares  in  Japanese,  Chinese,  and  English  that  "  Bud- 
dhism was  first  introduced  here,  from  China,  more  than  a 
thousand  years  ago." 

Several  hundred  young  girls  were  performing  a  religious 
dance  in  this  temple,  while  its  courtvard  and  the  roads 
were  filled  with  people  participating  in  the  festivities. 
When  the  dancing  was  ended,  gifts  of  money  and  food 
were  thrown  from  the  tops  of  high  bamboo  towers  to 
the  poor  people,  who  filled  the  temple-grounds. 

There  is  an   interestino;  old   cemeter\-  near   the  temples, 


Kobe,  Japan 


131 


which  is  filled  with  quaint,  moss-covered  stones  and  monu- 
ments ;  and  near  by,  in  a  grove  of  old  trees,  stands  a  mon- 
ument that  was  erected  in  1268  to  the  memory  of  the 
Japanese  hero  Kujormori.  Thus  does  Japan  honor  the 
brave. 

Near  the  end  of  the  town  is  an  interesting  little  temple 
noted  for  its  plainness  and  poverty.  Materials  have  been 
most  sparingly  used  in  its  construction.  Its  exterior  is 
unpainted,  weather-stained,  and   moss-grown;    but  the   in- 


Japanese  Dancing-Girls,  —  the  "Geisha." 

terior  is  full  of  beauty,  so  fresh  and  bright  that  no  one 
would  dream  it  had  weathered  the  storms  of  three  hundred 
years  and  more.  Its  shrine  contains  a  great  brown  Buddha, 
which  at  the  time  of  our  visit  was  almost  buried  in  flowers, 
while  crowds  of  gavly  dressed  musiimes  were  coming  in, 
their  arms  filled  with  blossoms  and  flowers  for  its  further 
adornment. 

Close  by  stands  the  old  circular    stone   fort  which  has 
been   there   since  before  the  davs  of  the   Dutch.      It   was 


132      An  American   Cruiser  in  the   East 


burned  out,  and  is  not  susceptible  of  enlargement  or  strength- 
ening;, but  stands  with  its  cracked  walls  and  closed  ports,  a 
wreck  upon  the  land. 

As  we   retrace  our   steps,  we  see  great  streamers,  flags, 
banners,  and  lanterns,  which  are  displayed  from  the   house- 
tops, giving  the  town  a  holiday   appearance,  and  most  as- 
tonishing signs  hung  out  to  advertise  wares.      Bareheaded 
men,  gayly   dressed    women,  with    wide-eyed   babies    upon 
their    backs,   or    following    along    in    the 
crowd,  make  discordant  music  upon  the 
hard    walk    with    their    little    clogs. 
The  scene,  the  bustle,  and  the  great 
surging,    polite,   good-natured 
throng    is    thoroughly  Japanese, 
"  kimono  and  obi  "  prevail,  while 
the   people   trip   along,  and   bar- 
gain    and     shop    from    place    to 
place. 

We  crossed  the  great  stone 
bridge,  which  spans  the  Minato 
and  connects  the  two  towns. 
It  is  almost  like  the  aerial  bridges 
of  China,  except  that  it  is  wider 
and  heavier.  We  were  forcibly 
impressed  by  its  unnecessarily  high 
ascent  ;  so  great  it  is  that  jinrikisha 
men  are  compelled  to  go  from  one 
side  to  the  other  in  making  the 
ascent,  and  to  repeat  the  operation  in  descending  on  the 
other  side.  The  temple  dedicated  to  Kusumski  Masashegi 
stands  near,  on  the  Kobe  side.  This  great  warrior  is 
famous  in  Japanese  story  for  his  loyalty  and  valor.  He 
fell  on  the  spot  in  1336,  during  the  unsuccessful  war  for 
the  Restoration   of  the   Mikado's   power. 

The  railroads  in  Japan  are  as  fine  as  any  in  the  world. 


|ai'anese  Babies. 


Kobe,   Japan 


133 


Kobe  is  connected  with  Osaka,  twenty  miles  distant  by  a 
double-track  road.  This  line  has  been  extended  to  Kyoto 
(the  old  capital),  a  distance  of  twenty-seven  miles  from 
Osaka,  to  Nagoya  and  to  Yokohama  and  Tokio.  The 
whole  system  is  called  the  Ko-kaido  Railway,  and  its  en- 
tire length  is  nearly  four  hundred  miles. 

Another  road,  the  Sanyo  railway,  is  being  rapidly  pushed 


A  Tkip  imo  the  Country,  —  the  "Kaga. 


on  to  Shimonoseki  at  the  Yellow  Sea  entrance  of  the  In- 
land Sea. 

At  this  place  the  Japanese  government  has  extensive  dock- 
yards which  contain  a  patent  slip  capable  of  accommodat- 
ing a  vessel  of  two  thousand  tons,  where  the  government 
builds,  and  fits  out,  a  large  tonnage  in  cruisers,  gun-ships, 
and  torpedo  vessels  for  its  navy.  It  is  nine  hundred  feet 
long,  three  hundred  feet  long  above  the  water,  thirtv- 
eight  feet  broad  with  a  declivity  of  one  in  twenty,  and  is 
worked  by  hydraulic  power. 


134     A'^   American   Cruiser  in   the  East 

The  Imperial  arsenal  is  situated  in  the  eastern  end  of 
Kobe,  where  we  saw  a  cruiser,  with  ram  bow,  and  six  tor- 
pedo vessels,  together  with  their  boilers,  engines,  and  aux- 
iliaries in  process  of  construction.  The  entire  work  was 
done  by  native  superintendents  and  mechanics,  and  the 
intelligence,  care,  and  workmanship  displayed  were  sur- 
prising. The  arrangement  and  equipment  of  the  dock,, 
arsenal,  and  shops  are  admirable,  and  as  complete  as  could 
be  desired. 

We  had  been  curious  to  discover  what  opportunities  the 
bovs  had  for  acquiring  a  knowledge  of  a  trade,  and  learned 
that  the  bov  is  apprenticed  by  his  father  to  a  working-mah' 
whom  he  is  expected  to  serve  "  faithfully  and  well."  The 
man  obligates  himself  to  impart  all  the  information  he  can,, 
and  to  explain,  to  the  boy,  the  various  operations  and 
methods  of  his  work.  The  boy  commences  his  appren- 
ticeship when  about  twelve  years  of  age,  and  remains  until 
his  majority.  Whenever,  from  any  cause,  the  working-man 
changes  his  place,  the  boy  goes  with  him,  as  the  shop- 
owner  has  no  control  over  him,  except  in  the  matter  of 
deportment  ■,  and  as  Japanese  boys  are  well  behaved,  there 
is  seldom  any  trouble.  These  youngsters  frequently  be- 
come draughtsmen  and  superintendents,  as  the  door  is 
alwavs  wide  open  to  the  deserving  young  man  in  this  pro- 
gressive Japan. 

Shipbuilding  is  a  very  important  industry  of  Hyogo-Kobe,, 
and  a  number  of  iron,  steel,  and  wooden  vessels  are  built 
here  annually. 

We  strolled  up  the  hillside  to  the  temple  of  Hachiman, 
"  the  war-god,"  which  is  situated  in  a  beautiful  grove,  and 
is  surrounded  by  shrines  and  treasure-houses,  that  are  filled 
with  ancient  armor,  swords,  spears,  pennants,  and  trophies 
from  Korea.  Near  by  is  the  cage  of  the  sacred  white 
horse  and  the  huts  of  the  priests.  The  temple  is  ap- 
proached   by    a    broad    roadway    of     masonry,  —  a     noble 


Kobe,   Japan 


135 


avenue,  —  which  extends  through  the  city  for  several 
blocks,  and  is  crossed,  at  intervals,  by  great  stone  torii  and 
lanterns. 

To  the  beautiful  grove  of  old  trees  crowds  of  people 
resort,  after  their  devotions,  to  admire  the  trophies,  eat 
rice  and  dainties,  smoke  tobacco,  and  sip  tea,  while  ex- 
changing gossip  or  telling  stories.  The  younger  members 
of  the  party  wander  off  to  feed  beans  to  the  poor  imprisoned 


Japanese  Carpenters. 

horse,  with  his  projecting  ribs  and  pink  eyes,  clap  their 
hands  in  merriment  at  the  antics  of  the  acrobats,  climb 
over  a  blear-eyed  god,  and  laugh  and  chatter  over  the  fun 
and  frolic. 

The  raised  river-bed  of  the  Minatogawa,  lined  on  each 
side  with  magnificent  old  pines,  as  straight  as  masts,  many 
of  them  a  hundred  feet  high,  is  a  pleasure-ground  for  the 
inhabitants  of  both  cities.  Under  the  old  trees,  little  sum- 
mer booths  line  the  greensward  banks,  and  tempt  natives 


136      An  American   Cruiser  in  the  East 

and  foreigners  to  sip  the  saki,  or  lemonade,  while  enjoying 
the  gentle  breezes,  the  music  of  the  soft  samisan,  and  the 
song  of  the  musiime ;  old  men  fly  kites,  and  boys  toss 
the  shuttlecock  with  the  heels  of  their  clo2;s. 


A  Japanese  BARiiEu  Saor. 

Near  by  a  merry  family-party  stops  to  rest ;  the  old 
man  takes  three  whifFs  from  his  infinitesimal  bronze  and 
bamboo  pipe;  the  little  women  and  men  gambol  on  mats 
and  greensward;  the  demure  musiimes  chatter  in  under- 
tone  as   they    cast    fugitive   glances   at    the   promenaders ; 


NuNABiKi  Waterfall  at  Kobe,  Japan. 


Kobe,   Japan  139 

while   the  mother  of  the  partv  chats  with   a   neighbor  over 
the  fence. 

All  seem  happy  and  joyous  in  Japan.  No  sad  faces  are 
seen,  and  if  sadness  fills  any  heart  the  clouds  do  not  appear 
upon  the  countenance. 

The  Montomachi,  main  street,  running  from  the  centre 
of  Kobe  through  Hyogo,  and  losing  itself  in  the  country 
beyond,  is  a  revelation  and  a  delight.  It  is  lined  on  both 
sides  with  tempting  little  shops,  where  beautiful  wares  are 
displayed.  The  fronts  are  all  open,  and  the  interiors  can 
be  seen  from  the  street,  which  is  only  about  twenty  feet 
wide. 

Works  of  art,  ancient  armor  and  arms,  bamboo  furniture 
and  ornaments,  porcelains,  fans,  lanterns,  jewelry,  curios, 
old  and  new  bronzes,  wares  of  gold  and  colored  lacquer; 
carvings  in  ivory  and  woods  ;  embroideries,  silks,  and  the 
hundreds  of  nameless  things  that  make  up  the  native 
woman's  finery  ;  fish,  garden-produce,  fruits  and  sweets,  — 
are  all  temptingly  arranged  by  the  cunning,  artistic  shop- 
keepers, who  are  patiently  squatting  upon  their  little  square 
mats,  gazing  into  vacancy,  apparently  indifi^erent  to  the 
world  and  its  surroundings,  but  well  knowing  that  their 
beautiful  wares  are  sure  to  draw  you  into  their  nets. 

Further  down  the  street  are  establishments  where  some 
of  the  most  precious  articles  of  the  ancient  order  can  be 
seen,  —  articles  that  in  the  days  of  the  Shoguns  were  sacred 
heirlooms  in  families  that  have  been  deposed.  Many  of 
these  beautiful  works  of  art  are  in  gold,  silver,  bronze,  steel, 
ivory,  lacquer,  porcelain,  and  silk  ;  armor  that  has  resisted 
the  spear's  thrust,  the  arrow,  and  the  battle-axe  at  the  very 
gates  of  Seoul;  swords  that  ha\'e  hewn  down  countrymen 
and  strangers,  or  perhaps  have  performed  the  hari-kari 
and  saved  a  noble  family  from  disgrace  ;  old  i\'ories,  bronzes, 
and  porcelains,  that  decorated  castles  for  hundreds  of  years, 
—  all   have    found    their   ways   here.     As  the   settina;   sun 


140     An  American   Cruiser  in  the  East 

seems  to  gather  the  last  rays  of  light  and  cast  them  like 
uncertain,  scattering  tints  toward  the  eastern  sky,  so  here 
we  find  the  last  trophies  of  the  dying  clans,  gathered  within 
the  walls  of  these  museums  of  art,  where  you  and  I  may 
have  our  choice   for  the  merest  trifle. 

The  dark  hills  behind  Kobe,  reaching  to  a  height  of 
twenty-five  hundred  feet,  make  a  beautiful  background  for 
the  settlement  and  its  approaches.  In  the  morning  sun- 
light the  hills  are  brightest  green  and   purple,  shading  into 


One  Mhihou  (.>f  Irrigating  the  Land  in  Japan. 

the  color  of  night,  while  in  the  evening  their  blackness  is 
dotted  over  with  little  red  lights,  which  shine  from  the 
native  huts  that  are  scattered  on   their  sides. 

The  Nunabiki  gathers  its  waters  about  the  tops  of  these 
lofty  hills,  meanders  for  awhile,  until,  suddenly  reaching 
a  shelving  place,  it  leaps  over  and  dashes  full  a  hundred 
feet  into  a  basin  that  is  surrounded  by  perpetual  green, 
around  which,  as  well  as  up  the  hillsides,  the  nature- 
loving   natives   have   placed   charming   little  summer-houses 


Kobe,  Japan  141 

and  tea-houses,  where  they  enjoy  the  beautiful  scenery  and 
the  waters. 

The  waters,  like  sportive  maidens,  frolic  and  play  in  the 
basin,  and  then  make  another  leap  of  a  hundred  feet,  and 
go  laughingly  on  to  the  sea.  The  scenery  is  just  as  it 
came  from  the  hands  of  the  Creator,  wild  and  weird,  a 
place  of  beauty,  quiet,  and  rest ;  and  little  bands  of  pilgrims 
come  from  every  part  of  the  country  to  wonder  at,  admire, 
and  enjoy  its  beauties. 

The  plains  of  Arima  are  situated  behind  these  lofty  hills, 
and  as  far  as  vision  extends,  —  until  lost  on  the  horizon, 
where  the  fields  seem  to  meet  the  sky,  —  nothing  is  seen 
but  a  vast  greensward  plain,  smooth  and  level,  like  our 
own   prairies  of  the  West. 

Middle-Class  Homes  and  Hospitality 

We  were  frequently  entertained  by  native  friends  ;  and 
as  the  native  houses  of  Kobe  are  similar  to  millions  of 
others  all  o\  er  this  fair  land,  I  will  describe  one  where  we 
visited. 

The  house  stands  about  three  feet  above  the  ground 
on  a  foundation  of  bricks.  It  is  two  stories  in  height, 
built  of  wood,  with  an  all-around  projecting  hip-roof  of 
tiles.  The  sides  and  rear  are  enclosed  by  wooden  walls 
with  small  openings  for  windows,  while  on  the  front  both 
stories  have  sliding  doors  of  thin  wooden  frames,  covered 
with  white  paper.  At  night,  and  in  stormy  weather, 
heavy  wooden  shutters  are  set  up  in  front  of  these  papered 
frames,  and  secured  on  the  inside.  An  oiled  and  polished 
wooden  porch,  about  thirty  inches  wide,  extends  across 
the   front. 

Vines  are  trained  upon  the  enclosed  sides  of  the  house 
for  beauty  and  for  their  cooling  effect  in  keeping  off  the 
sun's   rays    in    summer.      A    litttle  vestibule,  or   reception- 


142      An   American   Cruiser   in   the   East 

room,  is  just  outside  of  the  front  door,  where  visitors  are 
received,  and  are  expected  to  exchange  their  clogs  or  shoes 
for  slippers  before  entering  the  house.  It  would  be  a  gross 
insult  to  go  in  upon  the  beautiful  white  matting  with  soiled 
clogs  or  shoes. 


A  Japanese  Clog-Maker. 

Having  donned  our  slippers,  we  ascend  one  step,  which 
brings  us  to  the  main  floor,  —  into  the  house  proper.  Each 
entire  floor  is  one  room,  but  is  divided  into  several  com- 
partments by  sliding  doors  or  screens,  which  are  tastefully 
ornamented  and  so  arranged  that  they  can  be  moved  about 
in  grooves  that  are  built  with  the  house.  Each  screen  has 
a  little  bronze  casting  let  into  its  edge  which  serves  as  knob 
to  lift  it  or  move  it  about. 

The  floors  are  covered  with  beautiful  white  rice-straw 
mats,  about  six  feet  long,  three  feet  wide,  and  three  inches 
thick.  Soft  silk,  crape,  and  cotton  cushions,  about  two 
feet  square  and  one  inch  thick,  filled  with  cotton-wool,  are 
placed  about  the  floor.  Imitating  our  host,  each  of  us  sat 
upon  a  mat.      A  small  lacquered  table,  containing  tiny  cup 


Kobe,  Japan 


43 


and  saucer  of  finest  blue-and-white  porcelain,  a  bowl  of 
sweets,  and  a  cut  of  sweet  rice  cake,  similar  in  appearance 
and  taste  to  sponge  cake,  was  placed  before  each  of  us. 
These  little  tables  were  about  one  foot  high  and  one  foot 
square,  with  a  shelf  half-way  between   top   and  bottom. 

On  the  eastern  side  of  the  room  was  a  platform  of  hand- 
some oiled  wood,  raised  about  five  inches  above  the  floor. 
Upon  the  centre  of  the  platform  stood  a  handsome  blue-and- 
white  vase,  filled  with  chrysanthemums ;  and  suspended 
upon  the  wall,  behind  the  vase,  was  a  "  kakemono,"  a  silk 
scroll,  handsomely  embroidered  with  the  Imperial  flower. 


A  Japanese  Home  Dinner. 

In  a  few  moments  a  large  brazier,  containing  a  kettle 
of  boilino;  water,  was  brought  in  and  fixed  in  a  place  pre- 
pared for  it,  in  the  centre  of  the  room.  A  handsome  metal 
box  containing  tea  leaves  was  handed  to  each  guest.  We 
placed  a  pinch  of  the  leaves  in  our  tiny  cups,  and  they  were 
filled  with  the  boiling  water.  Placing  a  sweet  in  the  mouth 
and  sipping  the  delicious  tea,  with  broken  morsels  from  the 


144      A^^   American   Cruiser   in   the   East 

rice  cake,  was  the  mode.  All  the  while  our  host  and  host- 
ess were  doing  their  best  in  polite,  flowery,  honorific  Anglo- 
Japanese  to  entertain  us,  and  render  our  visit  pleasant. 


Japanese  Doctor  and  Patient. 

These  people  have  no  stoves.  When  it  is  cool  they 
depend  upon  thicker  clothing  for  the  body,  and  the  coals  in 
the  brazier,  for  warming  hands  and  feet.  When  it  becomes 
very  cold,  they  make  a  good  charcoal  fire  in  the  brazier, 
place  a  wooden  frame  about  it,  spread  a  heavy  quilt  over 
all,  and  sit  or  lie  on  a  large,  heavv  cushion,  with  their  feet 
towards  the  brazier,  pulling  the  quilt  up  around  their  bodies, 
thus  keeping  warm  while  reading  or  chatting.  Often  they 
begin  the  cold  winter  evenings  in  this  fashion,  while  telling 
blood-curdling  stories  of  murderous  robbers,  or  of  the  deeds 
of  valor  of  some  native  hero. 

The  floors  of  the  kitchens  are  made  of  plain  oiled 
boards,  which  can  be  raised,  like  thap-doors.  Under  these 
the  familv  stores  of  charcoal  and  other  articles  are  kept. 
A   large  brazier   is  placed  near  the  middle  of  the  kitchen 


Kobe,   Jcipaii 


H5 


where  the  family  cooking  is  done  ;  and  near  by  is  a  clay- 
furnace,  "•  hetsui,"  containing  the  large  iron  rice-boiler 
which  is  so  necessary   in  every  Japanese   family. 

The  walls  are  decorated  with  numerous  utensils  for  culi- 
nary purposes,  but  there  are  neither  chairs  nor  tables. 
Food  is  prepared  on  a  short  piece  of  board  that  is  sup- 
ported on  two  legs,  —  "  mana-ita." 

Charcoal  and  wood  are  the  fuel  in  general  household 
use.  There  is  plenty  of  coal  in  the  country,  much  of  it 
of  excellent  quality ;  but  it  is  too  expensive  for  ordinary 
household  use. 


How  They  Sleep  in  Japan. 

The  sleeping-rooms,  on  the  second  floor,  are  similar  in 
appearance  to  the  room  in  which  we  were  entertained.  A 
closet,  with  sliding  door,  is  built  on  one  side  of  the  room, 
and  serves  as  receptacle  for  beds  and  bedding  when  not  in 
use.  The  beds  are  large  quilted  mats  of  silk,  or  cotton 
goods,  about  seven  feet  long,  four  wide,  and  three  inches 
thick,  and  are  spread  out  upon  the  white  mat-covered  floor. 


146      An   American   Cruiser  in  the  East 

The  head,  which  is  always  elaborately  dressed,  is  supported 
by  a  little  cushion  that  serves  as  a  pillow,  and  is  fitted  into 
a  wooden  frame  resting  upon  the  floor.  A  small  cabinet 
for  cosmetics  and  a  pair  of  metal  mirrors  complete  the  fur- 
niture of  the  room. 

There  are  no  people  in  the  world  who  indulge  in  bath- 
ing more  frequently  than  the  Japanese,  and  their  bathing 
arrangements  are  very  simple.      A   large,  unpainted  tub   is 


The  Family  Bath,  Japan, 

placed  in  some  secluded  spot  in  the  house  or  garden,  and 
nearly  filled  with  water  of  a  temperature  that  would  almost 
turn  a  lobster  red.  Kimono  and  clogs  quickly  removed, 
and  the  natives  spring  into  the  tub,  and  scrub  and  rub 
and  knead  to  their  heart's  content,  the  operation  being 
repeated  two,  three,  and  often  four  times  a  day.  There 
are  public  baths  in  all  cities  for  both  males  and  females, 
where  a  little  tub  of  hot  water  and  a  place  on  the  cemented 
floor  (where  they  can  rub  and  scrub  and  douch)  can  be  had 
for  less  than  half  a  cent. 


Kobe,  Japan 


^M 


Making  the  Toilet,  Japan. 


Japanese  Girls  and  Women 

The  life  of  a  woman  in  Japan  is  unique,  and  very  dif- 
ferent from  that  of  her  sister  in  the  United  States.  Her 
birth  into  the  world  is  heralded  for  several  weeks  in  advance 
by  a  gaudy  flag  or  streamer  from  the  housetop.  When  she 
is  seven  davs  old,  her  head  is  shaven,  with  great  ceremony, 
and  kept  partially  so  until  her  sixth  year.  During  her 
infancy  she  is  carried  about  strapped  to  the  back  of  an  older 
sister,  or  perhaps  her  grandmother.  When  she  is  large 
enough  to  take  care  of  herself,  she  plays  in  the  open  air  at 
shuttlecock,  gazes  at  the  acrobats,  and  romps  in  the  temple- 
grounds. 

She  is  by  instinct  modest  and  polite,  and  does  not  know 
what  disobedience  or  rebellion  means.  Her  education  is 
on  the  lines  of  etiquette,  ceremonies,  poetry,  the  language 
of  flowers,  and  obedience  to  men.  At  fifteen  she  has  de- 
veloped into  a  well-knit  woman,  —  a  rosy-cheeked  brunette, 
with  dark,  velvety  eyes,  —  and  is  as  bright  as  the  sunshine. 


148      An   American    Cruiser   in   the   East 

She  dresses  according  to  her  station  in  lite.  If  she  can 
afford  it,  she  wears  a  kimono  of  silk  or  crape,  which  is  held 
about  the  waist  by  a  cord.  Over  the  cord  is  placed  a  long 
sash,  or  "  obi,"  ten  inches  wide,  and  about  twelve  feet  long. 
This  sash  is  wound  about  the  waist,  and  made  into  a  great 
bow  at.  the  back.  It  is  made  of  silk  woven  with  threads, 
of  gold,  and  forms  the  chief  ornament.  Her  black  tresses 
are  subjected  to  frequent  baths  of  rapeseed  oil,  and  by  the 
aid  of  decorated  pins,  combs,  and  pads,  are  formed  into 
mounds  and  waves.  She  sleeps  by  resting  her  neck  on  a 
wooden  pillow,  "  ma  kora,"  and  is  enabled  to  keep  her 
hair  in  good  condition  for  several  days.  She  goes  to 
flower  shows,  the  theatre,  and  to  festivals,  but  she  is 
always  accompanied  by  her  father,  and  knows  nothing  of 
flirtations.      Her  friends  are  all  of  her  own  sex. 


The  IIair-dresser  in  Japan. 


Kobe,  Japan 


149 


The  Japanese  take  little  note  of  affection,  social  position, 
or  money  when  marriages  are  discussed,  the  all-important 
point  being  consideration  for  perpetuating  the  family  name. 
No  greater  misfortune  could  befall  a  couple  than  to  be 
childless,  and  this  is  the  cause  of  the  great  number  of 
divorces  in  Japan.  An  old  maid  or  bachelor  is  almost 
unknown.  The  girl  is  not  consulted,  and  has  no  voice  in 
the  selection  of  her  future  husband. 


The  Sick  Babe,  Japan. 

Marriages  are  arranged  by  the  middleman,  or  "  nakado." 
He  interviews  the  relatives  of  both,  carries  on  the  court- 
ing, is  master  of  ceremonies  at  the  marriage,  and  acts  on 
all  matters  of  discord  between  husband  and  wife.  He 
settles  all  family  matters,  has  power  to  grant  divorce,  and 
arrange  the  settlement  of  property.  He  brings  the  young 
people  together  for  the  first  time.  The  girl  must  submit 
to  an  inspection,  and  if  she  is  satisfactory  to  her  future 
husband,  the  matter  is  settled.  If  not,  the  man  leaves, 
and    the    engagement    is    off.       When    the   engagement    is 


ICO      An  American   Cruiser  in   the   East 


made,  there  is    an    exchange  of  presents   of  clothing    and 
flowers. 

On  the  day  of  the  wedding  the  girl  covers  her  face  with 
rice-paint,  rouges  her  lips,  and  dresses  in  white  garments,  — 
the  color  for  mourning,  —  emblematic  of  her  death  to  her 
father's  family.      All  of  her  property  is  sent  to  her  mother- 
in-law,  and  after  her  depart- 
ure  the    house   is   thoroughly 
cleaned,  indicating  that  she  is 
no  longer  of  the  family. 

In  old  times,  the  father's 
parting  gift  was  a  short  sword, 
with  the  admonition  to  the  girl 
to  commit  suicide,  "  harikari," 
if  she  failed  to  please  her  hus- 
band. The  wedding  takes 
place  at  the  home  of  the 
man's  family,  to  which  the 
girl  has  been  escorted  by  the 
"  nakado,"  where  she  changes 
her  mourning  kimono  for  one 
of  colors  presented  by  her  fu- 
ture husband.  The  house  is 
tastefully  decorated  with  flow- 
ers, and  in  one  corner  of  the 
room  two  wooden  figures  are 
dressed  as  an  old  man  and 
woman,  being  intended  to  signify  long  life  for  the  bride 
and  groom. 

Religion  and  law  have  very  little  to  do  with  these  wed- 
dings. They  partake  of  the  nature  of  an  agreement,  and 
can  be  terminated  at  any  time  by  mutual  consent.  The 
man  kneels  at  one  side  of  the  room,  where  he  is  joined  by 
the  bride,  the  "nakado,"  and  members  of  the  families. 
They    kneel,   facing   each   other,  and   the  man    hands    the 


A  Tattooed  Japanese. 


Kobe,   Japan 


51 


bride  a  cup  of  saki,  from  which  she  sips  and  returns  it 
to  him.  This  ceremony  of  drinking  is  repeated  nine  times 
to  the  accompaniment  of  music  from  an  adjoining  room, 
and  this  means  that  henceforth  the  husband  and  wife  —  for 
they  are  now  united  —  will  drink  from  the  same  cup, 
whether  it  be  of  prosperity  or  adversity.  The  relatives  now 
enter,  and  a  feast  follows. 


Japanese  Cooper. 

When  the  guests  have  departed,  the  bridal  chamber  is 
sought,  and  nine  cups  are  again  emptied.  The  husband  is 
then  served  by  the  bride,  who  makes  low  obeisances,  and 
by  all  means  in  her  power  indicates  her  belief  in  her  hus- 
band's superiority.  From  this  time  the  husband's  power 
is  supreme,   his  will   is  law. 

After  these  ceremonies  the  woman  blackens  her  teeth, 
shaves  her  eyebrows,  and  does  all  in  her  power  to  render 
herself  as  unattractive  to  other  men  as  possible;  but  this 
practice  is  rapidly  dying  out.  From  childhood  she  is  taught 
perfect  obedience,  first  to  her  father,  then  to  her  husband 


152      An   American    Cruiser  in   the   East 

and  her  husband's  family ;  and  if"  she  becomes  a  widow, 
then  to  her  son.  She  is  tender,  gentle,  and  womanly,  but 
there  is  no  romantic  homage  to  her.  She  has  limited 
privileges,  and   demands   no   rights. 

The  railway  terminus  is  at  the  boundary  line  between 
Kobe  and  Hyogo,  and  extensive  car-buildings  and  repair- 
shops  are  on  the  grounds.  There  are  Protestant  and 
Catholic  churches  in  Kobe,  and  an  excellent  club,  recrea- 
tion-ground, and  three  ftrst-class  hotels  in  the  foreign 
settlement. 

The  population  of  both  towns  is  about  one  hundred  and 
sixty  thousand.  The  foreign  residents  of  Kobe  number 
about  six  hundred,  not  including  the  Chinese,  who  number 
one  thousand  and  twenty. 

Five  dailv  papers  are  published,  three  of  which  are  in  the 
English  language,  and  two  in  Japanese. 

The  harbor  is  commodious,  and  affords  safe  anchorage 
for  vessels  of  large  tonnage.  Tea,  rice,  camphor,  vege- 
table wax,  copper,  matting,  porcelain,  and  curiosities  are 
the  most  important  articles  of  export. 

The  value  of  the  import  trade  is  about  526,501,670; 
that  of  the  exports,  $17,314,595.  There  are  23,679,977 
pounds  of  tea  shipped  from  this  port,  the  whole  of  which 
goes  to  the   United   States   and   Canada. 


Picking  Tea  Leaves  in  Japan. 


CHAPTER    IX 


OSAKA,    JAPAN 


TWENTY  miles  of  railroad  travel  over  a  finely  made 
road,  through  a  scenerv  varied  by  gardens,  villages, 
and  forests,  delights  the  eve,  and  brings  us  to  Osaka.  This, 
the  second  city  of  the  Empire,  is  situated  on  the  Ajiawa 
River,  about  five  miles  from  the  sea,  in  the  province  of 
Settsu,  and  is  an  extensive  manufacturing  centre.  Its 
houses  are  well  built  and  close  together,  and  the  streets  are 
well  laid  out,  regular,  and  beautifully  clean.  Three  hun- 
dred bridges  span  its  canals,  and  it  has  been  called  the 
"Venice  of  the  East." 

Osaka  is  thoroughly  native,  and  is  not  influenced  by  the 
foreigner.      It    is   a    pushing,    driving    city,   and   has    been 


154      ^^   American   Cruiser   in   the   East 

likened  to  some  of  our  rapid  growing  cities  of  the  West. 
The  Imperial  mint  is  located  here,  and  its  coinage  is  not 
surpassed  by  any  in  the  world.  The  porcelains  of  Osaka 
are  well  known  and  admired  throughout  the  world.  Its 
bronzes  are  of  the  finest,  and  they  are  deservedly  famous. 
The  silk  shops  display  the  richest  goods  that  can  be  pro- 
duced. Some  of  its  mills  send  out  beautiful  patterns  in  rugs, 
druggets,  and  carpets,  and  others  produce  cotton  cloths  that 


Jaiam-m:  Ca];inet-Maki:k  at  ().^\k 


rival  the  texture  of  India  lawns.  The  iron-works  are 
deservedly  famous,  and  the  ship-building  yards  send  forth 
the  steamers  whose  shrill  Calliopes  make  the  earlv  morn- 
ings and  the  nights  hideous  about  Kobe.  Osaka  is  so 
much  of  a  manufacturing  centre  that  it  will  be  well  for  the 
political  economists  and  manufacturers  of  the  world  to 
remember  the  artistic  tastes,  mechanical  genius,  deft  fingers, 
and  cheap  labor  of  Japan  when  making  their  calculations 
for  the   future. 

The  city  is  the  seat  of  the  Pro\'incial  government,  and  its 


Osaka,  Japan 


H5 


scenes  are  similar  to  those  of  the  other  great  cities.  The  pag- 
eantry of  the  court,  the  handsome  equipages  of  the  officials, 
the  great  throngs  of  people,  in  native  and  foreign  dress,  the 
sedan  chairs,  the  jinrikisha  and  street  cars,  and  the  soldiers 
in  red  and  blue  uniforms,  make  a  picturesque  foreground 
for  the  gay,  open   shops  which   line  the  streets. 

Osaka  was  the  capital  and   military  camp  of  the  Toku- 
gawa  Shoguns.     For  more  than  four  centuries  they  shaped 


Japanese  Pottery  at  Osaka,  Japan. 

the  country's  course,  and  made  its  history,  from  this  city 
on  the  Ajiawa;  and  it  was  here  they  met  their  fate,  and 
played  the  last  act  in  the  drama  of  usurpation,  by  surrender- 
ing to  the  Mikado,  in  1868. 

The  castle  of  the  Shoguns  was  erected  by  Hido-Yashi,  in 
1583,  and  is  one  of  the  finest  specimens  of  the  ancient 
feudal  castle  to  be  found  in  Japan,  rivalling  the  palace  of 
the  Mikado  at  Tokio.  It  is  now  garrisoned  by  troops 
of  the  Imperial  army,  and  is  the  military  headquarters  and 
arsenal  of  this  district.     The  arsenal,  situated  in  the  castle- 


156      An  American   Cruiser  in  the  East 

grounds,  contains  vast  quantities  of  military  stores  and 
arms. 

The  Haku  Butsu,  "  great  bazaar,"  is  filled  with  speci- 
mens of  almost  everything  made  in  Japan  :  antiques, 
lacquers,  screens,  porcelains,  embroideries,  gold  and  silver 
and  bronze  work.  Side  by  side  are  the  newest  and  the 
oldest,  beautiful  things  and  grotesque,  rich  goods  and 
common, —  all  attract  the  natives,  who  delight  to  stroll 
through   the   roads  and  enjoy  its  sights. 

The  Temroji  temple  and  pagoda  are  fine  specimens  of 
Japanese  religious  architecture,  and  the  little  dingy  island 
hotel  is  a  comfortable  place  to  rest  in  after  tramping  over 
the  great  city. 

The  population  of  Osaka  is  500,324  souls.  Its  imports 
are  ^4,840,507,  and  the  exports  are  ^1,000,601. 

From    Kobe    to    Nagasaki,    through    the 
Inland    Sea    of    Japan 

We  sail  in  and  out  as  we  thread  our  way  among  the 
islands  which  dot  the  Inland  Sea  of  Japan,  —  the  beautiful 
water  which  connects  the  Pacific  Ocean  with  the  Eastern 
sea.  Terraced  hills,  dark  valleys,  bamboo-combed  rido-es, 
line  its  shores,  and  behind  them  great  black  mountain  ranges, 
whose  peaks  are  lost  beyond  the  clouds ;  while  here  and 
there  cities,  towns,  villages,  and  temples  add  their  beautv. 
Oueer,  square  sailing-junks  and  little  fishing-boats  are 
passed,  and  the  sea  and  sky  lend  enchantment  to  the  scene, 
as  the  white  ship  speeds  on  her  way,  with   steam  and    great 

spread   of  canvas,  with  the  starrv  banner  at  her  peak, a 

thing  of  beautv  on  the  beautiful  water. 

We  pass  from  the  sea  through  the  beautiful  but  treacher- 
ous Straits  of  Shimonoseki,  the  "  Gibraltar  of  Japan,"  where 
fortress  on   fortress,  bristling  with  guns,  terrace  the   hills 
where  the  busy  garrisons  are  adding  strength  to  the  strong- 


Osaka,   Japan 


159 


holds,  and  the  huge  black  piles  of  coal  await  the  coming  of 
the  iron  and  steel  monsters.  Between  these  grim  hills,  the 
treacherous  waters  curl  and  twist  and  turn,  forming  danger- 
ous  eddies  and  whirlpools  ;  but  having  safely  passed  through 
them,  we  hug  the  shore  while  keeping  well  inside  of  outlying 
islands  until  we  reach  Papinberg,  at  the  entrance,  where  we 
feel  our  way  through  the  long  narrow  channel  to  Nagasaki. 


Japanese  Sampax  Ferry. 

The  scenery  all  the  while  is  varied  and  attractive,  A  fine 
pebbly  beach  extends  inland  to  terraced  hills  of  waving 
rice  ;  bamboo-combed  mountains  are  in  the  distance  ;  and 
neat  little  hamlets  of  tiny  native  huts  lie  about  the  valleys 
and  hillsides. 


Nagasaki,    Japan 

Nagasaki  is  situated  on  the  southwestern  coast  of  the  island 
of  Kiushiu.  The  harbor  is  about  three  miles  long,  and 
its  greatest  width  is  one  mile.  It  is  land-locked,  and  is  one 
of  the  most  picturesque  harbors  in  the  world.     To  compare  it 


i6o     An  American   Cruiser  in  the  East 

with  another  is  absurd,  for  there  is  but  one  Nagasaki.  The 
city  is  very  old,  and  was  the  most  important  trading  port 
of  Japan  in  the  early  days  of  foreign  intercourse.  Near 
here,  in  1637,  were  enacted  the  scenes  attendant  upon  the 
extinction  of  Christianity  in  Japan.  The  celebrated  island 
of  Papinberg,  at  the  harbor's  entrance,  is  the  spot  where 
thousands  of  Christian  martyrs,  rather  than   renounce  their 


<-*«i8~ 


Up  the  Mountain  Stream,  Nagasaki,  Japan. 

religion  and  trample  upon  the  cross,  suffered  themselves  to 
be  thrown  over  the  high  cliff  into  the  sea. 

The  native  city  is  about  two  miles  long  and  one  mile 
wide,  extending  along  the  water-front,  and  following  up  the 
hills  until  they  become  too  steep,  where  it  loses  itself  in 
straggling  summer-houses,  tea-houses,  and  pleasure-houses 
among  the  gravestones,  and  the  little  terraced  rice-fields. 
From  this  elevation  a  beautiful  panorama  of  hills,  valley, 
and  sea  is  spread  out  before  us ;  and  the  "  sampans," 
with  their  covered  cabins,  appear  like  white  gondolas  gliding^ 
through  the  waters   of  the  beautiful   harbor. 


Osaka,  Japan 


163 


After  the  Christian  religion  had  been  crushed  out,  and 
the  foreigners  expelled,  the  Dutch  were  granted  the  privi- 
lege of  trading  with  Japan.  On  the  departure  of  their 
vessel  for  Holland,  they  were  compelled  to  leave  hostao-es 
for  its  return.  The  problem  of  taking  care  of  these  host- 
ages arose,  and  the  governor  looked  about  the  city,  strolled 
down  to  the  water's  edge,  and,  opening  his  fan,  said,  "  Make 


An  Old  Stone  Bridge,  Nagasaki,  Japan. 

an  island  like  this."  This  was  done,  houses  were  built  for 
the  accommodation  of  the  hostages,  and,  that  they  might  be 
safeh  kept,  the  windows  were  secured  with  bars  of  heavy 
iron.  Thus  the  Dutchmen  found  themselves  prisoners  on 
the  fan-shaped  island  of  Deshema. 


The  O'Sueva,  or  Bronze-Horse  temple,  stands  upon  a 
hill  behind  the  citv,  and  is  approached  bv  a  wide  roadway 
of  huge  stone  slabs,  spanned  at  intervals  by  great  stone 
torii,  behind  whose  columns   stand   massive  stone   lanterns. 


1 64     An  American   Cruiser  in  the  East 

The  roadway  crosses  the  mountaui  torrent  by  a  fine  old 
stone  bridge,  —  a  piece  of  engineering  said  to  be  several 
hundred  years  old.  The  roadway  is  lined  on  both  sides 
by  little  shops  and  booths  which  extend  almost  to  the 
temple. 

The  temple  is  situated  in  a  large  courtyard  which  con- 
tains a  life-size  sacred  bronze  horse,  colossal  stone  lanterns 
and  a  sacred  font,  the  whole  surrounded  by  a  dense  grove 
of  old  trees,  where  the  natives  congregate  to  enjoy  the 
beautiful  surroundings  and   scenery. 

At  the  entrance  to  the  temple  stand  "  Gog  and  Magog  " 
in  gigantic,  barbaric  hideousness,  seeming  ready  to  strike 
down  any  intruder.  The  temple  is  a  mass  of  dingy  col- 
umns supporting  a  tent-shaped  tiled  roof,  and  enclosed  by 
wooden  walls.  There  are  three  altars,  each  having  a 
Buddha  with  different  attributes.  Before  each  is  placed  a 
grated  box,  to  receive  offerings,  and  a  bell-cord  is  so  located 
that  the  devout  can  call  the  attention  of  the  god  required. 

A  trip  through  the  korausha,  or  bazaar,  gives  an  idea  of 
the  wonderful  artistic  and  industrial  life  of  the  people  of  this 
section  of  the  Empire.  Here  we  see  beautiful  cabinets, 
tables,  and  boxes  of  various  styles  and  design,  made  of 
natural  colored  woods,  —  almost  incomprehensible  boxes, 
which,  turn  them  as  you  may,  you  cannot  open  unless  you 
know  the  secret ;  embroideries  in  gold  and  colored  silks  ; 
magnificent  old  brocades  of  gold  and  silver  threads;  stuffed 
birds,  so  natural  as  to  cause  surprise ;  lacquer  boxes  and 
tables  and  trays,  that  rival,  in  decoration  and  color,  the 
temples  of  the  Shoguns  ;  handsome  and  grotesque  bronzes ; 
old  and  new  tapestries ;  beautiful  ornaments  in  glass  and 
gold  and  silver;  carved  ivory  and  wood  in  many  designs  ; 
porcelains  and  pottery  ;  fruit  and  flower  stands,  where  one 
may  find  his  favorite  rosebud  or  chrysanthemum.  The 
crowds  of  shock-headed  men,  gayly   dressed    women,  and 


Osaka,  Japan 


165 


shaven-headed  babies  trip  along  good-humoredly,  and  add 
to  the  beautiful  scenes.  Chatting  together  or  singing  on 
the  way,  they  seem  to  go  through  life  in  a  merry,  happy 
way,    living    close    to     nature,    as    their    religion    teaches, 


Japanese  Toy  Pedler. 

gathering  the  sweets  as  thev  go.  Contracted  brows  and 
sad  faces  are  only  seen  on  the  gods  and  temple  guardians. 

The  ancient  Dutch  prison-houses  on  the  bridge-guarded 
island  of  Deshema  are  historically  interesting,  though  now 
they  have  been  converted  into  storehouses  where  beautiful 
porcelains  from  Hizen,  Hirado,  Arita,  and  Imari  can  be 
seen.  Here  are  shown  unique  designs  and  decorations, — 
the  finest  porcelains  in  Japan. 

Tortoise-shell  work  is  a  thriving  industry  of  Nagasaki. 
One  may  stroll  along  the  "  Curio  "  street  and  see  scores 
of  busy  artisans  sawing,  cutting,  carving,  and  polishing, 
while  fashioning  this  beautiful  shell  into  the  many  designs 
that  please  foreign  taste. 

There  are  several  shops  on  this  street  where  there  are 
exhibitions  of  fine  specimens  of  ancient  swords,  axes,  spears, 


1 66      An   American   Cruiser   in   the   East 

and  armor,  inlaid  with  gold,  silver,  and  bronze  ;  old  porce- 
lains in  blue  and  white,  and  in  varied  colors ;  and  old 
brocades  and  silks,  worth  more  than  their  weight  in  gold. 
Lacquered  ware,  cunningly  inlaid  with  mother  of  pearl  and 
gold,  grotesque  articles  in  porcelain,  ivory,  and  rare  woods, 
together  with  bronzes,  old  and  new,  are  some  of  the  pro- 
ductions of  these  patient   people. 

The  fishino;  interests  of  Nagasaki  are  extensive,  and  many 


Fish  and  Fresh  Provision  Shot,  Japan. 

tons  of  fine  fish  are  caught,  dried,  and  salted  for  the  market. 
Hundreds  of  little  fishing-boats  go  outside  to  deep  sea 
soundings,  where  they  remain  until  thev  secure  the  catch 
they  desire,  or  are  driven  in  by  bad  weather.  A  short  trip 
outside  of  the  harbor,  at  night,  soon  brings  us  in  sight  of 
the  great  fleet,  —  a  scene  of  enchantment.  As  far  as  the 
eye  can  reach  we  see  the  little  reddish-white  lights  of  the 
fishermen,  twinkling  as  the  everlasting  roll  of  the  sea  gives 
them  undulating  motion  that  sends  weird  rays  through  the 
surrounding  blackness. 


Osaka,   Japan 


169 


.  The  feast  of  lanterns  is  held  in  October,  after  the  har- 
vests. For  days  preparations  are  being  made,  and  the 
festival  is  talked  about.  Cakes  and  cookies  and  sweets, 
and  all  the  mysterious  things  the  Japanese  mother  can 
devise  to  tempt  the  appetite  and  gratify  the  palate,  are 
prepared.  In  the  mean  time,  the  male  portion  of  the  com- 
munity is  busy  with  preparations ;  houses  are  decorated, 
lanterns,   flags,    and   transparencies    are    purchased    or    im- 


Artists  Decorating  Lanterns. 

provised,  wagons  are  decorated,  and  "  floats "  arranged. 
When  the  night  arrives,  the  people  are  in  a  fever-heat  of 
expectancy ;  houses  are  illuminated ;  a  great  torch-li2;ht 
procession  with  beating  drums,  ringing  bells,  decorated 
wagons  and  floats,  banners  and  illuminated  transparencies, 
marches  through  a  section  of  the  citv,  and  pandemonium 
reigns  amid  this  good-natured  throng  of  men  and  women. 

After  going  over  as  much  of  the  city  as  possible,  the 
procession  is  so  timed  as  to  arrive  at  the  head  of  the  har- 
bor about   midnio;ht,  when   all   who    have    had   relative  or 


170      An   American   Cruiser   in   the   East 

friend  lost  at  sea  or  anywhere  drowned,  launch  a  miniature 
sampan  made  of  rice-straw,  gayly  decorated  and  filled 
with  provisions.  A  bright  light  is  placed  inside  of  the 
little  sampan,  so  that  the  spirit,  whose  name  is  painted  in  a 
conspicuous  place,  can  distinguish  it.  Many  of  these  little 
craft  are  stranded  and  burn  upon  the  beach  of  the  long 
harbor,  while  many  others  float  out  to  sea  to  hunt  the  lost 
spirit  whose  earth-name  is  borne  upon  its  frail  bow. 

After  launching  these  little  boats,  the  people  re-form  in 
family  groups,  and  with  lighted  lanterns  and  a  store  of  pro- 
visions wend  their  way  up  the  hills,  amongst  the  graves, 
where  they  feast  with  their  dead.  They  believe  that  the 
spirits  are  present  and  enjoy  the  feast  with  them.  The 
feast  lasts  for  two  nights  and  days,  and  when  it  is  ended 
refreshments  are  left  at  the  graves  so  that  the  spirits  can 
feast  at  their  pleasure. 

After  another  trip  through  the  "  Curio  "  street,  where  we 
inspected  the  beautiful  specimens  of  armor  and  arms,  old 
porcelains  and  silks,  reminders  of  the  last  Shoguns  and  their 
faithful  henchmen,  and  watched  the  cunning  artisans  fash- 
ioning beautiful  designs  in  tortoise-shell,  we  strolled  up  the 
hill  to  the  Shinto  temple.  Turning  from  the  street  into 
a  flight  of  wide  stone  steps,  which  is  flanked  on  each  side 
by  heavy  retaining  walls,  we  mounted  the  thirty  or  more 
steps  which  brought  us  under  the  torii  and  into  the  temple 
courtyard,  —  a  large  terrace  bordered  on  all  sides  with  fine 
old  trees.  A  stone  well  for  ablutions  is  fixed  in  the  centre 
of  the  court,  and  numerous  elaborately  carved  stone  lan- 
terns are  scattered  about  in  artistic  disorder. 

The  temple  is  of  plain,  old  unpainted  wood,  as  the  teach- 
ings of  the  Shinto  faith  require,  and  is  more  impressive 
from  its  great  size  and  its  surroundings  than  for  architectu- 
ral beauty  or  decoration.  Massive  pillars  of  bright  wood, 
capped  with  heavy  green-bronzed  heads,  give  support  to 
great  girders  and  lintels  with  curious  bronze  ends  ;  and  little 


Osaka,  Japan 


171 


birds   fly    about,  and    chirp    from    their   nests   between    the 
rafters  which  support  the  black  tiled  roof. 


A  Funeral  Procession-  i.\  Japan. 

The  matted  floor  is  soiled  from  use  and  age.  The 
shrineless  altar,  with  its  sacred  white  papers  and  the  great 
metal  mirror  overhead,  adds  to  the  beautiful  simplicity  of  the 
interior.  A  couple  of  bonzes,  priests,  in  elegant  robes, 
were  moving  about  in  preparation  for  some  event. 

As  we  were  about  leaving  the  temple  we  met  a  proces- 
sion of  white-robed  natives,  two  and  two,  each  man  bearing 
a  massive  bouquet  of  artificial  flowers.  Body-bearers  bore 
a  beautiful  white-wood  box  which  was  about  thirty  inches 
square,  and  the  same  in  height,  with  a  slanting  cover  upon 
it  like  the  hipped  roof  of  a  house.  A  body  had  been 
placed  in  this  box  in  a  sitting  position,  with  the  knees 
under  the  chin,  and  the  head  pressed  forward.  This  coffin, 
or  box,  was  placed  close  in  front  of  the  temple  altar,  while  the 
persons  composing  the  procession  formed  a  triangle  about  it, 
the  vertex  of  the  triangle  being  towards  the  entrance,  and 


172      An   American   Cruiser  in   the   East 

the  sides  extending  towards  the  chancel  rail.  One  of  the 
priests  pulled  the  bell-rope  to  call  the  god,  then  all  present 
engaged  in  silent  prayer.  The  ceremony  lasted  for  about 
half  an  hour,  and  there  was  no  sound  except  the  ringing  ot 
the  bell,  the  clapping  of  hands,  and  the  chirping  of  the  little 
birds  under  the  roof.  One  of  the  priests  then  clapped  his 
hands  three  times,  when  all  bowed  low ;  the  procession 
re-formed,  and  the  body  was  borne  out  of  the  temple. 

When  the  procession  reached  the  great  porch  of  the 
temple,  one  of  the  priests  opened  a  little  wooden  cage  and 
set  a  beautiful  white  dove  free.  The  freed  bird  circled 
round  and  round,  each  time  widening  its  circle,  until  it  had 
about  completed  the  third,  when  it  started  off  and  upward, 
almost  in  a  straight  line,  and  was  soon  lost  to  sight, 
emblematic  of  the  flight  of  the  freed  spirit. 


Coffin  and  Funeral  Ornaments.  Japan. 

The  little  company  now  resumed  its  march,  slowly  and 
reverently  moving  up  the  hills  to  the  spot  where  the  remains 
of  their  friend  were  to  be  hidden  from  the  sight  ot  men. 


Osaka,   Japan 


73 


A  drive  around  the  beautiful  harbor  brings  us  to  the  old 
native  fort  whose  guns  were  always  pointed  towards  the 
devoted  island  of  Deshema,  lest  the  poor  Dutch  hostages 
should  forget  their  captivity  and  endeavor  to  enjoy  the  free- 
dom of  the  neighboring  hills.  Lotus-helds  and  beautiful 
flowers  are  bevond.  Charming  scenes  are  through  the  \ale 
to  the  right,  and  the  Russian  village  that  skirts  the  harbor  is 
in   the   valley  through   which    the  terrible  tvphoon   sweeps, 


A  Japanese  Country  House  near  Xacasaki,  Japan. 

and   where  we   meet   the   odd-looking  half-breeds  who   re- 
semble  neither  Japanese  nor  Cossacks. 

Turning  inland,  we  dismount,  walk  up  a  very  steep  hill 
to  view  the  surroundino-  countrv  and  harbor,  and  are  o-reeted 
by  a  magnificent  sight  of  mountains,  hills,  valleys,  and 
clouds  of  wonderful  shapes  and  colors,  with  the  smooth, 
mirror-like  harbor  at  our  feet.  Near  us  is  the  new  resi- 
dence of  the  kenshaw,  or  governor,  imposing  in  size,  of  the 
Russo-Japanese  style  of  architecture,  situated  on  a  com- 
manding bluff  at  the  head  of  the  harbor,  and  surrounded  bv 


174     An  American   Cruiser  in  the  East 

a  handsome  garden,  which  is  also  the  official  weather  signal 
station,  where  the  approach  of  typhoons  are  about  as  well 
foretold  as  rains  are   foretold  at  home. 

We  visited  one  of  the  public  schools,  situated  on  a  hill 
near  the  kenshaw.  The  schoolhouse  is  a  rectangular 
building,  light  and  airy,  externally  having  the  appearance 
of  an  immense  conservatory,  as  it  is  almost  entirely  made 
up  of  windows,  doors,  and  roof.      It    is  about  two  hundred 


In  the  Rice-Field. 

feet  long,  one  hundred  feet  wide,  and  two  stories  high.  It 
stands  in  a  courtyard  about  as  large  as  two  of  our  city 
blocks.  The  interior  of  the  building  is  divided  into  corri- 
dors and  class-rooms,  each  of  which  is  fitted  with  little 
tables,  seats,  and  blackboards. 

To  give  some  idea  of  the  appreciation  of  the  schools  by 
the  people,  our  dri\'er  informed  us,  with  a  great  deal  of 
pride  in  his  manner,  that  his  children  attended  this  school. 

Further  on,  we  left  the  hills  and  re-entered  our  vehicle, 
crossing   two  of  the  fine   stone  bridges  that  have  spanned 


Osaka,   Japan  177 

this  mountain  torrent  for  centuries.  Then  we  went  up 
the  road,  which  leads  along  the  falls,  to  see  the  crazy  old 
mill  whose  race  passes  over  one  wheel  and  under  another, 
as  it  furnishes  power  from  the  flowing  waters,  to  grind  the 
people's  rice. 

Crossing  the  city,  we  meet  groups  of  men  and  women 
returning  from  their  daily  toil  of  gathering  twigs  from 
among  the  trees  on  the  hillsides,  and  behind  them  groups  of 
charcoal-venders,  who  have  their  little  crossed  piles  of  coals 
swung  from  bamboo  poles,  borne  upon  their  shoulders, — 
every  one  of  them  having  a  pretty  little  nosegay,  or  bou- 
quet in  hand,  or  on  the  burden,  so  dearly  do  these  people 
love  flowers. 

Pushing  on  up  the  hill,  amongst  the  graves,  we  reach  a 
favorite  tea-house,  where  we  stop  awhile  for  rest  and  re- 
freshments. Having  exchanged  our  shoes  for  light  slippers, 
we  pass  over  the  white-matted  floor  to  the  verandah  beyond, 
where  we  enjoy  the  beautiful  scenery  while  awaiting  the 
preparation  of  our  luncheon.  Soon  the  Honorable  Miss 
Bamboo  and  the  Honorable  Miss  Chrysanthemum  make 
their  appearance,  and,  falling  upon  their  knees,  exchange 
the  compliments  of  the  day,  and  receive  our  orders. 

After  a  time  the  luncheon  is  spread  before  us  in  Ameri- 
can fashion,  and  with  sharpened  appetites  we  proceed  to 
make  our  honorable  waitresses  stare  at  the  way  the  good 
things  disappear.  Stare,  did  I  say?  I  did  not  mean  exactly 
that,  for  no  one  stares  in  Japan  except  the  great-eyed 
babies  ;  but  as  the  Japanese,  when  compared  to  us,  have 
such  butterfly-like  appetites,  we  think  they  ought  to  stare 
when  we  are  enjoying  our  luncheon  after  a  hard  day's 
tramp. 

There  is  a  fine  dry-dock  of  stone  with  extensive  manu- 
facturing and  repair  shops  on  the  western  side  of  the  har- 
bor.     The    dock    and  works    were   built   by   the   Japanese 


178      An   American    Cruiser   in   the   East 

government,  but  they  are  now  the  property  of  a  private  cor- 
poration. The  dock  is  483  feet  long  (inside  of  caisson,  at 
top),  its  length  on  blocks  is  375  feet,  its  breadth  of  entrance 
at  top  89,  and  at  bottom  77  feet,  its  depth  of  water  on  blocks 
at  spring  tides  27  feet  6  inches,  and  neap  tides  22  feet. 

Nagasaki  has  an  abundant  supply  of  good  water,  which 
is  supplied  to  the  people  by  means  of  hydrants  on  every 
block.  The  reservoir  holds  nearly  100,000,000  gallons, 
which  pass  through  three  filter  beds  and  a  supply  reservoir 
before  its  delivery  to  the  people.  A  railway  is  being  con- 
structed from  Kumamoto  to  Nagasaki,  a  distance  of  one 
hundred  miles.  It  is  now  open  as  far  as  Moji,  about  five 
miles  distant. 

The  coal  mines  at  Yackashema,  an  island  which  lies 
about  six  miles  southeast  of  the  entrance  to  Nagasaki,  are 
very  interesting.  They  now  extend  out  under  the  sea, 
and  a  trip  to  them,  including  the  descent  of  the  shaft  and 
the  exploration  of  their  vast  passages,  is  an  experience 
never  to  be  forgotten.  There  one  sees  the  little  brown, 
blackened  Japs,  picking,  wheeling,  trucking,  and  sending 
the  coal  to  the  surface,  with  their  tiny  safety  lamps,  like 
Liliputian  head-lights,  to  guide  them,  and  one  feels  a  realiz- 
ing sense  of  being  so  far  under  the  sea.  When  the  fresh 
air  is  reached,  and  one's  feet  are  fixed  upon  the  green- 
sward, the   sensation   is   one  of  great   relief.^ 

We  devoted  an  afternoon  to  a  trip  to  the  crematory, 
which  is  located  on  the  top  of  one  of  the  highest  hills 
behind  Nagasaki.  Our  guide  was  a  little  superstitious, 
and,  when  he  learned  our  destination,  he  refused  to  go  with 
us  ;   so,  United  States  fashion,  we  went  without  him.      Not 

^  There  are  several  very  productive  coal  mines  near  Nagasaki,  of 
which  the  Yackashema  mine  is  the  most  important,  the  production 
being  over  300,000  tons  in  one  year;  that  of  the  Nakamashema 
mine  is  125,509  tons,  and  the  aggregate  production  of  the  various 
mines  in  the  locality  is  about  800,000  tons. 


Osaka,   Japan 


179 


being  able  to  find  the  road,  we  concluded  that  "  all  roads 
lead  to  Rome,"  and  struck  out  across  the  country,  over 
rice-fields  and  terraces,  climbing  over  parapets,  and  at 
times  going  a  long  way  around  to  avoid  the  flooded  rice- 
fields.  The  tramp  was  particularly  fatiguing,  as  the  mer- 
cury had  taken  a  sudden  jump  up  into  the  nineties  for 
our  benefit.  Tired  out,  but  undaunted,  we  finally  reached 
our  destination,  and  found  the  place  well  worth  the  visit, 
but,  I  must  confess,  a  little  mournful. 


Japanese  Bull  Cart. 

The  building  is  a  massive  brick  structure,  with  a  tall 
chimney  of  the  same  material,  and  it  is  situated  in  a  barren 
courtyard.  A  little  Japanese  summer-house,  with  white 
awnings  and  massive  black  characters,  stands  to  the  right 
of  the  entrance,  and  a  great  pile  of  cord-wood  is  neatly 
lined  up  behind  it.  There  are  no  trees  on  the  premises, 
no  sounds  ;  not  even  the  note  of  a  stray  bird  breaks  the 
awful  stillness  of  this  Dives-like  inferno,  man's  device  to 
cheat  time  and  rob  the  worm. 


i8o      An   American   Cruiser   in   the   East 


We  entered  through  a  large  central  doorway  which 
opens  into  a  wide  hall  that  extends  across  the  entire  breadth 
of  the  building  and  meets  two  other  halls  which  extend 
to  the  rear.  The  hallways  are  lined  with  furnaces,  so 
placed  that  their  backs  form  the  base  of  the  great  one- 
hundred-and-fiftv-feet-high  chimney.  The  furnaces  ex- 
tending across  the  front  hall  are  reserved  for  the  rich,  while 
those  opening  into  the  side  halls  are  on   one  side  designed 


"The  Old  Mill"  at  Nagasaki,  Japan. 

for  the  middle  classes  and  on  the  other  side  for  the  poorer 
people.  The  furnaces  are  rectangular  iron  boxes,  built  in 
with  the  brick  work,  with  an  opening  in  the  back  end 
near  the  top  of  each,  and  each  furnace  door  is  fitted  with 
a  regulating  damper. 

When  a  body  is  to  be  cremated,  the  religious  services, 
if  any,  are  held  in  the  hallway.  A  known  quantity  of 
cord-wood  is  spread  over  the  bottom  of  the  furnace,  then 
the  body  is  placed  upon  an  iron  truck,  the  truck  is  run 
into  the   furnace    over  the   wood,  the   wood  is   ignited,  the 


Osaka,   Japan  i8i 

door  closed,  its  edges  made  tight  with  luted  clay,  and  in 
one  hour  the  body  is  reduced  to  ashes.  The  door  is  then 
opened,  the  truck  is  drawn  out  of  the  furnace,  the  ashes 
are  carefully  gathered  from  the  truck  and  placed  in  a  vase, 
the  top  of  which  is  sealed  and  marked.  At  this  point  my 
companion  became  nervous,  and  imagined  all  sorts  of 
horrible  things,  and  it  was  with  great  difficulty  that  I  could 
quiet  him,  and  get  him  into  condition  to  make  our  down- 
ward journey. 

Our  descent  was  pleasanter  than  the  ascent  as  we  tried 
a  road  which  led  us  directly  to  the  Bund,  and  we  were 
soon  on  board  of  our  ship. 

The  climate  of  Nagasaki  is  mild  in  winter,  and  healthy 
at  all  seasons  of  the  year.  It  is  hot  in  summer  by  reason 
of  the  situation  of  the  town  on  a  plain  surrounded  by  high 
hills. 

During  the  last  few  years  the  foreign  trade  has  steadily 
improved.  The  chief  articles  of  import  are  cotton  and 
woollen  goods.  The  principal  exports  are  coal,  tea,  cam- 
phor, rice,  and  dried  fish.^ 

The  "  Rising  Sun,"  a  small  English  weekly  paper,  is 
published  here,  and  also  two  native  papers. 

There  are  Protestant  and  Catholic  churches,  mission 
houses  and  schools  in  the  settlement,  which  is  just  south 
of  the  native  city. 

Moji,  Japan 

Moji,  an  important  fishing  village,  containing  about  five 
thousand  inhabitants,  is  situated  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
island  from  Nagasaki,  about  five   miles  distant.      It  is  now 

1  The  value  of  the  import  trade  of  Nagasaki  was  $3,000,133,  and 
that  of  the  export  trade  $3,482,226.  Coal  is  the  chief  article  of  ex- 
port, amounting  to  nearly  one  half  of  the  whole  export  trade. 

The  population  of  Nagasaki  is  60,860.  The  number  of  foreign 
residents  is  1,006,  of  whom  671  are  Chinese. 


1 82      An   American   Cruiser   in   the   East 

reached  by  a  broad  new  pass  cut  through  the  mountains, 
in  a  country  justly  celebrated  tor  its  beautiful  scenery, 
formerly,  the  distance  was  about  eight  miles  by  a  narrow 
country  road  that  wound  upwards  and  over  the  mountain- 
tops.  Thousands  of  men  and  women  were  employed  in 
removing  this  great  mass  ot  earth  and  rock  with  tiny  shovels 
and  baskets  which  hold  about  a  peck  of  earth.  The  pass 
through  the  mountains  is  about  one  hundred  feet  wide  and 
about  one  mile  and  a  half  long,  and  the  banks  are  more 
than  three  hundred  feet  high.  The  road-bed  has  been  so 
carefully  made  that  it  is  as  hard  and  smooth  as  a  well-made 
city  street,  and  the  whole  roadway  to  Moji,  about  five  miles 
in  length,  is  in  the  same  condition. 


^.:^g^s^^ 


Moji,  Japan. 

At  every  step  and  turn  in  the  road  there  is  something 
to  attract  and  to  admire  :  terrace  on  terrace  where  the 
beautiful  rice  bows  its  head  to  the  gentle  breezes;  the 
bamboo  groves   and  little  shrines;   the  torii  and    temples;. 


Osaka,   Japan 


183 


the  old  mill  in  the  deep  ravine  ;  the  swift-running,  mad 
mountain  stream,  now  swollen  to  river  proportions,  with 
clear,  sparkling  waters  rushing  on  and  down  to  the  sea, 
turning  this  wheel  and  that,  as  it  grinds  the  rice  or  spins  the 


Hillside  Graves  of  the  Martyrs,  Moji,  Japan. 


cotton  ;  the  quaint  little  tea-houses,  with  their  wistaria 
arbors  shading  the  road,  and  the  peaceful  smile  of  the 
old  hermit  of  the  mountains  as  he  welcomes  you  to  rest 
in  his  little  black  hut. 

Moji  is  built  around  a  semi-circular  bay,  its  houses  and 
huts  occupying  the  level  ground  between  the  beach  and 
the  hills  beyond.  Here  one  sees  native  life  uninfluenced 
by  foreign  fashions  ;  and  the  male  portion  of  the  population 
being  absent  on  their  fishing  excursions,  the  village  appeared 
to  be  inhabited  by  women,  children,  a  few  old  men,  and  the 
crowd  of  squeak-voiced  curs  that  were  continually  snapping 
about  our  heels. 


1 84      An  American   Cruiser  in   the  East 

The  beautiful  ride,  the  \aried  architecture,  the  pictur- 
esque old  inn  at  the  entrance  of"  the  crescent  bay,  the  little 
fishing  vessels,  tossing  about  in  unison  with  old  ocean's 
swell,  and  the  magnificent  scenery  about  us,  —  all  make 
Moji  a  charming  place  to  visit. 


CHAPTER  X 

CONSTITUTION    AND    GOVERNMENT    OF   JAPAN 

THE  government  of  Japan  was  until  recently  that  of  an 
absolute  monarchy.  The  Mikados  were  the  supreme 
heads  of  the  Empire,  and  the  source  of  all  honors  and 
power.  They  were  encouraged  to  live  in  seclusion  and 
pleasure  (their  persons  being  considered  too  sacred  for  ordi- 
nary mortals  to  behold),  while  the  Shoguns,  the  military 
commanders,  assisted  by  the  Damios,  or  feudal  lords,, 
superintended  the  active  administration  of  affairs. 

Several  attempts  were  made  by  restless  Mikados  to 
depose  these  usurpers,  but  their  efforts  were  not  successful 
until  1868,  when  the  present  reigning  Emperor  overthrew 
the  power  of  the  Shoguns  in  a  short,  sharp  war.  They 
surrendered  their  lands,  retainers,  and  incomes  to  the  Mikado, 
who  granted  them  one  tenth  of  their  incomes  and  required 
them  to  reside  in  Tokio. 

The  reigning  monarch,  Mutsu-hito,  meaning  "  Honorable 
Gate,"  was  born  at  Kyoto  November  3,  1852.  He  suc- 
ceeded his  father,  Komei  leune,  in  1867,  and  married  Prin- 
cess Han-ko  December  28,  1868.  The  Empress  was  born 
April  17,  1850,  and  is  the  daughter  of  Prince  Itchije. 

The  present  Emperor  is  the  one  hundred  and  twenty-first 
descendant  of  an  unbroken  dynasty  which  was  founded 
660  B,  c.  By  the  ancient  law  of  succession,  the  crown 
devolves  upon  the  eldest  son  of  the  Emperor,  and,  failing 
male  issue,  upon  his  eldest  daughter.  Disregard  of  this 
law  of  succession  has  frequently  occurred,  and  this  was  one 
of  the  chief  causes   that  brought  about  the  dual   system  of 


1 86      An   American   Cruiser   in   the   East 

government  in  Japan.      Women   have   frequently  occupied 
the  throne. 

The  power  of  the  A^ikado  was  formerly  absolute,  but  in 
1875,  when  the  Senate  and  Supreme  Judiciary  were  estab- 
lished, the  Emperor  declared  his  intention  to  form  a  consti- 
tutional system  of  government.  The  Emperor  has  always 
been  the  spiritual  as  well  as  the  temporal  head  of  the 
Empire. 

The  official  religion  is  the  Shinto  faith,  —  "the  way  of 
the  sods  ;  "  but  there  is  no  interference  in  religious  matters, 
and  all  religions  are  tolerated  in  Japan.  In  1877,  the 
Ecclesiastical  Department  was  reduced  to  a  bureau  under 
the   Interior   Department. 

The  Emperor  acts  through  an  Executive  Council,  which 
is  divided  into  nine  departments,  the  head  of  each  being  a 
great  Minister  of  State.  The  departments  are  those  of 
Foreign  Affairs,  the  Interior,  Agriculture,  Justice,  Finance, 
Education,  the  Navy,  the  Army,  and  the  Department  of 
Communications. 

The  new  Constitution  was  proclaimed  in  February, 
1889,  and  in  1890  the  first  Japanese  Parliament  was 
chosen.  It  is  composed  of  a  House  of  Peers  and  a  House 
of  Representatives.  The  House  of  Peers  is  composed  of 
three  distinct  classes,  —  Hereditary,  Elective,  and  Nomina- 
tive Members.  The  House  of  Representatives  consists  of 
three  hundred  members,  who  are  elected  by  ballot,  for  a 
term  of  four  years,  but  in  case  of  necessity  the  term  may 
be  prolonged.  The  Emperor  selects  the  members  of  his 
Cabinet,  or  Council,  and  they  are  not  responsible  to  the 
Parliament. 

For  administrative  purposes,  the  Empire  is  divided  into 
three  Fu,  or  cities  (Tokio,  Kyoto,  and  Osaka),  and  forty- 
three  Ken,  or  prefectures,  including  the  Loochoo  Islands. 
The  island  of  Yezo  is  under  a  separate  administration. 
The  governors   of  these  Fu   and   Ken    are   called   Prefects.  • 


Constitution   and   Government       187 


They  are  all  of  the  same  rank,  and  are  under  the  control 
of  the  Interior  Department.  Their  powers  are  limited, 
and  they  are  required  to  submit  every  unprecedented  ques- 
tion to  the  Department  for  decision.  All  judicial  proceed- 
ings come  under  cognizance  of  the  local  courts  and  the 
Supreme  Courts,  the  latter 
being  presided  over  by  a 
Chief  Justice  in  the  capital. 

Yori-touri,  a  general  of 
great  ability,  founded  the 
Shogunate  in  11 84.  It 
continued  through  several 
dynasties,  and  exercised 
the  executive  authority. 
The  administration  was 
shared  by  the  two  hundred 
and  fifty  Damios,  or  feudal 
lords,  who  were  supreme 
in  their  own  dominions  so 
long  as  they  remained  loyal 
to  the  Shogun. 

The  great  Tokugawa 
family  was  deposed  from 
its  usurped  authority  in 
1869,  and  the  rank  and 
powers  of  the  Damios  fell 


Ancient  Japanese  Warrior. 


with  it.  In  1884,  the  nobility  were  re-established,  and  the 
most  distinguished  military  and  civil  officers  who  took  part 
in  the  Restoration  of  the  Emperor  were  admitted  to  its 
ranks,  —  Prince,  Marquis,  Count,  Viscount,  and  Baron 
replaced  the  ancient  titles. 

The  revenue  of  Japan  is  $85,980,081.  The  total 
expenditure  is  $85,978,078,  —  about  two  dollars  per 
annum   for  each  soul   in  the   Empire. 


1 88      An   American   Cruiser  in  the   East 

The  Japanese  Army 

The  army  of  Japan  consists  of  the  standing  army,  the 
reserves,  and  the  militia.  The  standing  army,  when  on  a 
peace  footing,  is  composed  of  61,976  men,  and  when  on 
a  war  footing,  245,310  men,  which  can  be  increased  to  one 
million.  The  Imperial  Guard  is  composed  of  5,336 
picked  troops,  who  do   duty  at  the   capital. 

The  Empire  is  divided  into  six  military  districts  with 
headquarters  at  Tokio,  Nagoya,  Sendai,  Osaka,  Kumamoto, 
and  Hiroshima.  Four  regiments  of  infantry,  one  regiment 
of  cavalry,  two  batteries  of  artillery,  one  regiment  of  engi- 
neers, and  one  regiment  of  transport  corps  are  stationed 
at  each  headquarters,  and  camps  of  instruction  are  estab- 
lished in  fifty-six  other  places. 

The  army  is  organized  on  the  French  system  by  officers 
specially  selected  by  the  French  government.  The  Em- 
peror looks  after  the  army  and  navy  with  jealous  care.  At 
the  manoeuvres,  which  are  held  every  year,  the  Emperor 
spends  days  in  the  saddle,  or  on  board  ship,  familiarizing 
himself  with  the  condition  of  the  troops,  insisting  always 
on  the  best  in  personnel,  equipments,  material,  and  move- 
ments. His  tastes  and  the  tastes  of  his  people  have  always 
inclined  toward  outdoor  exercise,  the  use  of  warlike 
weapons,  a  chivalrous  bearing,  and  the  cultivation  of 
qualities  which  develop  warriors. 

The  Navy  of  Japan 

The  navy  of  Japan  comprises  five  steel  coast-defence 
vessels,  ten  composite  corvettes,  two  iron-clad  frigates,  six 
steam  sloops-of-war, —  five  of  steel,  one  composite,  —  five 
steam  gunboats,  three  torpedo-catchers,  four  seagoing  tor- 
pedo boats,  and  thirty-five  torpedo  boats,  whose  numbers 
are  being  increased  by  vessels  built  in  Japan  and  in  Europe. 

The  steel  coast-defence  vessel  "  Itsukushima,"  built   in 


Constitution   and   Government       189 

France,  has  a  displacement  of  4,278  tons  with  engines  of 
5,400  horse-power.  Her  armament  consists  of  one  65-ton 
and  twelve  smaller  breech-loading  steel  rifles.  One  sister 
ship  built  in  Japan,  and  one  built  in  France,  have  similar 
power  and  guns.  The  iron-clad  frigate  "  Fuso  "  has  a 
displacement  of  3,779  tons,  with  engines  of  3,932  horse- 
power. Her  armor  varies  from  7  to  9  inches  in  thickness. 
Her  armament  consists  of  four  15.25  and  two  5.5  ton 
breech-loading  steel  rifles,  so  placed  as  to  command  every 
point  of  the  compass. 

The  iron-clad  cor\ette  "  Kongo  "  has  a  displacement  of 
3,000  tons,  with  engines  of  2,500  horse-power.  A  belt  of 
armor  4.5  inches  thick  extends  around  her,  and  her  arma- 
ment consists  of  124-pounder  breech-loading  steel  rifles. 
The  "  Hiyei,"  a  sister  ship  to  the  "  Kongo,"  has  similar 
displacement,  power,  armor,  and  battery.  The  steel  cruiser 
"  Tsukushi  "  has  a  displacement  of  3,000  tons,  steams  16 
knots  an  hour,  and  her  armament  consists  of  two  25-ton 
breech-loading  rifles. 

The  "  Naniwa  "  has  a  displacement  of  3,700  tons,  steams 
18  knots  an  hour,  and  has  an  armament  of  two  25-ton  breech- 
loading  steel  rifles,  besides  a  number  of  machine  guns.  The 
*■'  Takachiho  "  is  a  sister  vessel  to  the  "  Naniwa,"  and  has 
equal  displacement,  speed,  and  batterv.  The  "  Yoshino  "  has 
a  displacement  of  4,200  tons,  with  engines  of  5,500  horse- 
power, steams  22  knots  an  hour,  and  has  an  armament  of 
two  25-ton  breech-loading  steel  rifles,  machine  guns,  and 
three  torpedo  tubes.  The  steel  cruiser  ''  Chiyoda  "  has  a  dis- 
placement of  2,400  tons,  with  engines  of  2,500  horse-power. 
Her  armament  consists  of  one  25-ton  breech-loading  steel 
rifle,  machine  guns,  and  three  torpedo  tubes. 

Japanese  sailors  are  bold  and  venturesome,  and  the 
mechanical  genius  of  the  people  fits  them  for  the  guidance 
and  management  of  the  great  fighting  machines  of  these 
times. 


CHAPTER   XI 

POPULATION    AND    INDUSTRY    OF    JAPAN 

THE  area  of  Japan  is  estimated  at  156,604  square 
miles ;  and  the  population,  according  to  the  census 
of  1890,  was  40,453,461,  of  whom  20,431,097  are  males, 
and  20,022,236   are   females. 

The  Empire  is  divided,  geographically,  into  four  depart- 
ments or  islands,  —  Henshiu,  Kiushiu,  Shikoku,  and  Yezo. 
The  first  three  are  subdivided  into  eight  great  divisions 
containing  sixtv-six  provinces,  and  Yezo  is  divided  into 
eleven   provinces. 

The  Japanese  ports  of  Yokohama,  Kobe-Hyogo,  Hako- 
date, Niigatee,  Nagasaki,  and  the  cities  of  Tokio  and  Osaka 
are  open  by  treaty  to  foreign  trade  ^  and  residence.  Thev 
each  have  a  designated  settlement  where  foreigners  may 
reside.  Some  of  the  treaties  were  revised  in  1889.  The 
new  treaties  were  to  become  effecti\e   in    1890,  when  the 

1  The  following  table  shows  the  total  value  of  the  principal  classes 
of  goods  exported  from  Japan,  in  yen,  or  Mexican  silver  dollars,  as: 

Books  and  Paper     .        $269,979  Silk  and  Cocoons     $32,175,892 

Coal 4,749,734  Skins,  Hair,  Shells, 

Drugs,  Dyes,  &c.    .      2,506,116  Horn,  &c.      .      .          279,718 

Grain  and  Provisions  10,923,467  Tea 7,033,050 

Matches        .      .      .      1,843,637  Clothing,  &€.      .      .      5,372,413 

Metals     ....      5,409,773  Duty  free  Goods     .      6,247,764 

Oil  and  Wax     .      .          639,483  Foreign  Produce,  &c.        789,219 

Porcelain  and  Eartlien- 

ware    ....      1,287,027  Total      .        <.j<),^zj ,zji 


Population   and   Industry   of  Japan      191 

whole  of  Japan  was  to  be  thrown  open  to  foreign  commerce 
and  extratorialitv,  —  which  is  \ery  distasteful  to  these 
clever  people — was  to  be  abolished.  On  October  19, 
1889,  the  Japanese  Minister  of  Foreign  Affairs  was  se\erelv 
wounded  in  the  capital  in  an  attempt  upon  his  life,  incited 
bv  the  agitation  of  treaty  revision,  and  the  work  was  then 
suspended.  The  revised  treaties  had  been  signed  bv  the 
United  States,  Russia,  and  Germany,  but  thev  were  not 
ratified.       Negotiations    were    resumed,    and    the     United 

The  imports  from  various  foreign  countries  are  classified  by  the 
Imperial  Bureau  of  Revenue,  also  in  yen,  or  \Iexican  silver  dollars, 
as:  — 


Arms,  Clocks,  Ma- 
chinery, &c.  .      .    §3,990,611 
Beverages  and  Pro- 
visions      .      .      .  886,930 
Books  and  Stationerv^  609,990 
Clothing  and  Apparel       755,519 
Cotton,  Raw     .      .  8,199,251 
"      "i^arn        .      .  5,589,290 
"      Piece  Goods  3,502,127 
Drugs,     Medicines, 

and  Chemicals      .  2,225,767 

Dyes  and  Paints      .  1,218,202 

Glass  and  Glassware  3/9,075 

Rice,  Beans,  Sec.  6,106,537 
Hair,  Horns,  Ivory, 

Skins,  S:c.      .      .  1,177,101 


Lime  and  Manufac- 
tures of     . 

Metals   and   Manu- 
factures of 

Oil  and  Wax     .      . 

Silk  Manufactures  . 

Sugar       .... 

Textile  Fabrics, 
Miscellaneous 

Vessels    .... 

Wines  and  Liquors 

Woollen  Manufac- 
tures   .... 

Sundries 


Total 


§326,159 

5,140,893 

4,971,781 

535>377 

7,811,307 

393,590 
674,270 
430,111 

•  5,481,938 

•  2,5^1,639 

S62, 927,268 


The  total    shipping    from    and  to    foreign  countries    for    the   year 
9  3   was :  — 

Entered.           T^onnage.  Cleared. 

■      1,358           1,906,698  1,231 

1,006               156,605  1,167 


Steamers  . 
Sailing  vessels 


Tonnage. 
1,604,995 
154,325 


.364 


1,063,30; 


2,398 


i,759»32o 


Of  which  1,262  steamers  and  19  sailing  vessels  entered,  and  1,280 
steamers  and  1 9  sailing  vessels  cleared  in  the  coast  trade  ;  of  these. 
more  than  one  half  were  Japanese  employed  in  foreign  trade. 


192      An   American   Cruiser   in   the   East 

States  and  British  treaties  were  revised  and  signed  in 
1894. 

Railways  already  completed  and  in  course  of  construction 
will  soon  make  a  line  of  communication  from  the  extreme 
north  to  Nagasaki  in  the  south,  branching  off  to  the  im- 
portant cities  in  the  east  and  west.  In  1892,  the  Parlia- 
iia.ent  enacted  a  law  authorizing  the  government  to  con- 
sti"uct  lines  of  state  railways  connecting  all  the  important 
cities  and  towns  in  the  Empire,  and  to  issue  bonds  to  cover 
the  cost. 

Tokio,  Kobe,  Osaka,  Yokohama,  Nagasaki,  and  Hakodate 
are  now  connected  with  each  other  and  with  the  United 
States,  via  Europe,  by  lines  of  telegraph  and  cables.  There 
are  more  than  seven  thousand  miles  of  telegraph  wires, 
connecting  all  the  important  towns  in  the  Empire. 

Japan  is  a  member  of  the  Universal  Postal  Union,  and 
for  the  past  eighteen  years  has  managed  the  international  as 
well  as  domestic  postal  service.  The  telephone,  electric 
lights,  steam  mills,  and  street-cars  have  been  introduced 
into  the  capital,  and  the  first  three  into  nearly  all  the  large 
cities  of  the  Empire. 

The  Religions  of  Japan 

The  Japanese  in  civilization  are  far  in  advance  of  other 
far-Eastern  people,  and  have  a  more  liberal  appreciation  of 
Western  thoughts  and  customs.  This  is  due  to  the  fact 
that  their  national  religion  is  Shintoism.  To-dav,  Chris- 
tianity, Buddhism,  and  Shintoism  flourish  side  by  side,  but 
Shintoism  is  the  religion  of  the  state,  and  gives  direction  to 
the  thoughts  of  the  Empire. 

Japanese  history  and  Shintoism  date  from  660  b.  c.  ; 
Buddhism  came  through  the  snows  of  Korea,  in  550  a.  d.  ; 
and  Christianity  was  reintroduced  after  Perry's  visit. 
Christianity  was  looked  upon  with  suspicion  and  a  certain 
dread   which  survived  the  unhappy  experiences  of  the  six- 


Japanese  Firemen  on  Parade. 


Population   and   Industry   of  Japan      195 

teenth  century,  and  although  these  are  slowly  dying  away, 
they   have  affected   the  progress   of  Christianity. 

To  comprehend  Shintoism,  we  must  examine  Taoism  and 
Confucianism,  from  which  the  Shinto  faith  was  formulated, 
and  study  its  wonderful  effects  upon  a  nation  isolated  from 
the  outside  world.  The  doctrine  of  Shintoism,  "  Kami-no- 
michi,"  or  "  The  way  of  the  gods,"  is  contained  in  a  combi- 
nation of  selections  from  Taoism  and  Confucianism,  and 
is  of  Chinese  origin.  Its  fundamental  principle  is  hero- 
worship,  the  veneration  of  the  country's  heroes  and  bene- 
factors, and  of  all  ancestors,  ancient  and  modern.  When 
the  Mikado  gave  his  people  their  present  liberal  Constitu- 
tion, he  invoked  the  spirits  of  his  ancestors  to  witness  the 
act. 

Shintoism  is  broad  and  liberal.  It  lends  a  helping  hand 
to  everything  that  tends  to  uplift  the  nation,  and  its  priests 
and  followers  have  always  given  aid  and  welcome  to  priests 
and  missionaries  of  other  creeds.  Notwithstanding  the 
fact  that  Shintoism  has  been  the  religion  of  Japan  for 
more  than  twenty-four  centuries,  it  was  not  declared  the 
established  religion  until  the  year  1868,  after  the  restoration 
of  the  Mikado,  when  a  grant  of  ;^300,ooo  per  annum  was 
made  toward  the  support  of  its  one  hundred  thousand 
temples. 

Shintoism  and  Buddhism  work  side  by  side,  and  the  rites 
of  either  are  administered  as  the  people  may  prefer.  Bud- 
dhism is  pushing  and  aggressive,  and  had  almost  superseded 
Shintoism. 

The  principal  deity  of  the  Shinto  faith  is  Mingo-no- 
Mikato,  the  ancestor  of  the  present  Mikado,  who  is  said  to 
have  been  descended  from  the  sun.  The  Mikado  is  known 
as  the  "  Son  of  Heaven,"  on  account  of  his  descent  from 
Mingo-no-Mikato.  It  is  said  that  "  when  the  goddess  of 
the  sun  made  '  Mingo  '  sovereign  of  Japan,  she  gave  him 
the  'way  of  the  gods,'  and  ordered  that  his  dynastv  should 


196      An   American    Cruiser  in   the   East 

be  as  immovable  as  the  sun  and  moon."  The  goddess  also 
gave  him  a  mirror,  and  commanded  him  to  look  upon  the 
mirror  as  her  spirit,  to  keep  it  in  the  same  house  and  upon 
the  same  floor  with  himself,  and  to  worship  it  as  he  would 
worship  her  actual  presence. 


Shinto  Priest,  Japan. 

There  are  ten  parts  of  the  Sacred  Book,  Yengi  Shiki, 
which  are  devoted  to  court  ceremonies,  and  these  occupy 
a  prominent  place  in  the  rules  of  the  court  of  the  Empire. 
The  great  incarnate  god  is  the  Mikado,  but  everything  in 
nature  is  exalted  and  deified. 


Population   and   Industry   of  Japan      197 

Shinto  temples  are  usually  divided  into  two  compart- 
ments. One  contains  the  emblem  of  the  deity,  which  may 
be  a  mirror,  a  sword,  or  a  stone,  kept  in  a  sacred  box  within 
other  boxes,  covered  with  wrappings  of  brocades,  and  tied 
with  silken  cords.  In  the  other  compartment,  usually  the 
outer  one,  pieces  of  white  paper  cut  in  a  peculiar  shape  hang 
from  a  lintel  overhead.  There  is  usually  an  oratory  in  front 
of  the  temple,  with  a  gong  hanging  over  its  entrance,  so 
that  the  devout  can  call  the  attention  of  his  god,  and  before 
this  oratory  the  worshipper  bows  and  clasps  his  hands  to- 
gether while  offering  his  silent  prayer.  He  then  claps  his 
hands,  throws  a  few  small  coins  into  the  box  for  offerings, 
and  departs.  The  priests  sell  slips  of  paper  bearing  the 
name  and  title  of  the  god,  which  many  of  the  people  use  as 
charms.  The  temples  are  generally  situated  in  a  grove 
of  trees,  and  there  are  often  additional  buildings  near,  which 
are  dedicated  to  other  Shinto  deities. 

These  temples  are  of  the  plainest  architecture,  without 
coloring  or  decoration.  The  floor  is  raised  a  few  feet  from 
the  ground,  and  a  narrow  balcony  extends  around  the  entire 
structure.  The  approach  to  a  Shinto  temple  is  always 
under  a  torii,  "  bird-perch,"  a  lintel  placed  across  two  up- 
rights at  the  entrance  to  the  grounds.  Sometimes  more 
than  one  mark  the  way  to  the  temple.  They  are  made  of 
heavy  or  of  light  materials,  —  wood,  stone,  or  bronze,  —  and 
are  sometimes  painted  a  bright  red  color.  The  central 
part  of  the  lintel  may  have  inscribed  upon  it  the  name  of 
the  deity  to  whom   the  temple  is  dedicated. 

The  temple  of  Ise  at  Yamato  is  Shinto,  pure  and  simple, 
and  as  it  is  one  of  the  most  ancient  shrines  in  the  Empire, 
it  is  annually  visited  by  thousands  of  pilgrims.  There  is 
no  grand  architecture  or  decorations,  no  sacrifices,  and  few 
symbols.  The  main  columns  of  the  temple  are  supported 
on  heavy  stone  foundations,  the  floors  are  raised  about  four 
feet   from   the   ground,  and   the  walls  are   of  wood.      The 


198      An  American   Cruiser  in  the  East 

roof  is  thatched,  and  metals  have  been  sparingly  used.  The 
posts,  rails,  and  fences  are  unornamented,  and  there  is 
neither  carving,  lacquer,  nor  color,  simply  the  brown  and 
gray  tints  and  the  mosses  of  weather-stained  woods,  —  the 
ancient  hut  enlarged. 

The  "torii"  are  the  gateways,  and  hanging  curtains  of 
white  swing  for  gates.  The  lanterns  are  of  coarse  white 
paper,  decorated  with  the  conventional  chrysanthemum,  the 
crest  of  the  Mikado.  The  offerings  upon  the  altar  are  rice, 
salt,  fish,  and  flowers,  and  the  emblems  are  as  simple, — 
ropes  of  rice-straw  and  wisps,  and  hanging  slips  of  white 
paper,  each  a  symbol  in  the  story  of  the  sun  goddess,  being 
enticements  from  the  cave  to  which  she  had  retired  from 
the  moon  god's  violence. 

The  sacred  mirror  is  never  seen  by  mortal  eyes.  It  is 
kept  in  a  box  which  is  wrapped  in  white  silk  and  covered 
by  a  wooden  cage,  which  in  turn  is  covered  with  a  silk 
wrapper.  The  mirror  is  in  a  brocade  bag,  and  as  soon  as 
its  sheen  begins  to  fade  with  age,  a  new  mirror  is  added 
without   removing  the   old   one. 

The  priests  call  the  attention  of  the  deity  by  a  few 
strokes  upon  a  gong  or  bell,  recite  a  few  short  prayers,  bow 
the  head,  and  retire. 

Buddhism  in  Japan 

There  are  as  many  Buddhist  sects  in  Japan  as  there  are 
Christian  denominations  in  the  United  States.  They  all 
believe  in  the  teachings  of  Buddha,  but  they  vary  greatly 
in  creed  and  forms  of  worship.  The  Tundi  sect  peddle 
medicines  and  charms  to  protect  against  all  the  ills  flesh  is 
heir  to,  —  to  cure  rheumatism  or  the  cholera,  to  keep  birds 
out  of  a  rice-field,  or  His  Satanic  Majesty  out  of  a  house, 
• —  and  they  sell  earth  to  make  the  muscles  of  the  dead 
flexible,  so  that   the  limbs  can   be  doubled  up  and   placed  in 


Population   and   Industry   of  Japan      199 


the  doghouse-like  coffins  which  the  Japanese  use.  This 
sect  has  thousands  of  temples  throughout  the  Empire.  The 
most  powerful  sects  are  the  Monto,  the  Jodo,  and  the 
Nichiren. 

The  Monto  teach  that  fervent  prayer,  elevated  thoughts, 
and  good  works  are  the  essentials.  The  Jodo  sect  pray 
without  ceasing,  abstain  from  eating 
flesh,  and  do  not  permit  their  priests 
to  marry.  The  Nichirens  are  noisy 
and  intolerant,  and  believe  that  all 
except  themselves  are  doomed  to 
eternal  punishment.  Their  temples 
contain  many  deities  and  incarna- 
tions. Some  cure  babies  and  protect 
from  all  childhood's  dangers  ;  others 
cure  all  sorts  of  diseases.  All  one 
has  to  do,  is  to  select  the  right 
temple  and  deity,  bargain  with  the 
priest,  say  the  prescribed  prayers, 
and  go  away  cured. 

At  almost  every  temple 
there  is  a  sacred  horse,  some 
hogs,  or  a  flock  of  birds. 
These  are  fed  by  the  bounty 
of  some  deceased  person  who 
has  made  provision  for  their 

support,  or  by  the  faithful,  who  bestow  a  few  beans  or  a  little 
corn  upon  the  creatures  in  hopes  of  receiving  their  reward 
for  a   meritorious  act. 

There  are  said  to  be  about  seventy  thousand  Buddhist 
temples   in   Japan. 

The  Buddhists  of  Japan  are  kind  and  considerate  of  each 
other  and  of  all  creatures.  They  believe  the  spirits  of  the 
departed    have   entered    into   some    created   form,  to   serve 


Buddhist  Priest,  Japan. 


200      An   American   Cruiser  in   the   East 


during  the  probationary  period,  and  therefore  they  treat  all 
creatures  kindly  for  fear  of  oppressing  some  spirit.  They 
are  energetic  and  pushing.  They  publish  many  religious 
articles  in  the  newspapers,  and  a  movement  is  being  made 
for  the  foundation  of  a  Buddhist  theological  course  in  the 
Imperial  University.  Some  advanced  thinkers  are  hoping 
to  make  it  the  state  religion,  while  others  are  formulating 


Japanese  Wood-Carvi.xc 

A  Detail  of  the  Temple,  Sheba,  }iear  Tokio,  Japan. 

creeds  for  the  union  of  Christianity,  Shintoism,  and 
Buddhism,  retaining  what  they  believe  to  be  the  best  fea- 
tures of  each,  and  forming  a  grand  religion  for  all  men. 
Many  Buddhists,  in  Japan,  believe  that  Nirvana  does  not 
mean  a  state  of  total  spiritual  annihilation,  but  the  annihi- 
lation of  all  that  is  bad  and  the  continuance  of  all  that  is 
good  in  man. 

iManv  of  these  Japanese  temples  have  been  erected  by 
men  and  women  who  became  enthusiastic  and  gave  their 
labor.  Carpenters,  masons,  carvers,  lacquerers,  and  laborers 
come  from  all  parts  of  the  Empire,  and  work  for  a  certain 


Population   and   Industry   of  Japan      201 

number  of  days  without  compensation.  Rich  men  con- 
tribute the  materials,  and  women  do  the  hauUng  and  lifting. 
They  even  cut  the  hair  from  their  heads  and  braid  it  into 
ropes  with  which  to  pull  and  hoist  the  great  stones  and 
beams.  It  is  said  that  two  hundred  thousand  women  and 
young  girls  cut  oft'  their  tresses  and  made  them  into  the 
ropes  which  are  used  for  the  hauling  about  the  temple  of 
Higashi  Hongwauji,  now  being  erected  at  Kyoto,  yet  this 
magnificent  pile  will  cost  more  than  eight  millions  ot  dollars 
before  its  completion.  Some  of  these  temples  have  very 
large  incomes,  and  almost  any  of  them  can  raise  from  one 
hundred  thousand  to  half  a  million   dollars  a  year. 


Class  Distinctions  in  Japan 

The  Tokio  Historical  Society  has  made  exhaustive  re- 
searches from  which  the  followinp;  extracts  are  taken. 

"  Until  the  year  470  a.  d.,  all  persons  not  elevated  by 
official  employment,  nor  degraded  temporarily  as  criminals, 
were  equal  before  the  law.  In  that  year,  a  man  named 
Ne-no-omi  rebelled  against  the  Emperor  Yuryaku.  Ne-no- 
omi  was  killed,  but  the  Emperor  decreed  that  all  the 
descendants  of  this  man  should  be  regarded  as  inferior  per- 
sons and  be  reduced  to  servitude  of  a  menial  kind.  Thev 
were  divided  into  two  parties,  one  being  detailed  to  serve 
the  Emperor,  and  the  other  a  provincial  governor." 

"  In  486  A.  D.,  Karabukmo-no-Sukune  rebelled,  and 
when  captured  the  Emperor  ordered  that  he  and  his 
descendants  should  look  after  the  Imperial  tombs." 

"  In  693  A.  D.,  the  Emperor  Jito  decreed  that  if  a  man 
was  unable  to  pay  a  debt,  and  if  the  sale  of  his  property 
did  not  realize  sufficient  money  to  meet  the  obligation,  he 
should  become  the  slave  of  his  creditor." 

"Down  to  this  time  (693  a.  d.)  all  foreigners  who 
came  into  the  country   were   classed   amongst   the  seinminy 


20  2      An  American   Cruiser  in  the  East 


inferior  people,  and  unless  redeemed  by  relatives  or  friends, 
were  slaves  for  life.  The  Emperor  Jito  changed  this  law, 
and  decreed  that  foreigners  should  be  classed  amongst  the 
ryom'in^  superior  people,  and  be  exempt  from  servitude. 
For  several  hundred  years  the  distinction  between  the  two 
classes  was  very  great,  but  under  the  Kamakura  and 
Ashikaga  Shoguns  it  was  almost  obliterated." 


^Jf'^i' 


.^*^' 


Japanese  Homes. 

"In  701  A.  D.,  the  'Yaiho'  laws  were  published,  and 
semmin^  or  inferior  people,  were  classified  as  follows : 
(i)  ryoko^  guards  of  the  Imperial  tombs  ;  (2)  hvanko^  govern- 
ment slaves  ;  (3)  kenhi^  domestic  slaves  ;  (4)  kom'ihi^  slaves 
of  officials;   (5)  shinuhi^  slaves  of  private  individuals." 

"  The  first  two  classes  were  householders  and  consisted 
of  rebels  or  their  descendants.  The  work  of  guarding  the 
Imperial  tombs  was  regarded  in  those  days  as  disgraceful 
employment,  as  all  work  connected  with  the  dead  was  con- 
sidered to  defile.  The  slaves  of  classes  2  and  4  had 
precedence  of  all  others,  as  it  was  not  considered  degrading 


Population   and   Industry   of  Japan      203 

to  work  about  cultivated  people,  even  in  the  capacity  of 
slaves.  The  slaves  in  class  2  were  mostly  rebels,  but  they 
were  over  sixty  years  of  age.  Those  of  class  3  were  too 
poor  or  helpless  to  become  householders  or  to  take  care  of 
themselves,  generally  poor  relations,  and  were  compelled 
to  serve  the  persons  upon  whom  they  depended  for  their 
support." 

"  Of  course,  there  was  a  certain  disgrace  attached  to  this 
loss  of  freedom,  but  it  was  preferable  to  many  other  forms 
of  servitude.  In  all  classes  except  3  it  was  punishment  for 
crime  or  violation  of  law.  In  class  3  it  fixed  the  mutual 
obligation  of  master  and  servant,  between  persons  who  were 
charged  with  the  support  and  care  of  others  who  were  un- 
able to  care  for  themselves,  and  in  this  connection  we 
must  remember  that  institutions  for  the  care  of  the  poor 
were  unknown.  Classes  4  and  5  were  composed  of 
prisoners  taken  in  war  and  criminals  and  their  descendants. 
Class  5  furnished  slaves  for  the  market,  as  it  was  strictly 
forbidden   to  sell  a  member  of  the  other  four  classes." 

"  Men  and  women  of  class  5  were  bought  and  sold,  and 
their  personal  liberty  depended  upon  the  disposition  of  their 
owners.  But  the  Japanese  have  always  been  a  kind-hearted 
people,  and  the  hardships  to  which  their  slaves  were  sub- 
jected were  no  more  than  always  exists  between  master 
and   servant." 

"  Slaves  were  forbidden  to  marry  with  the  other  people, 
and  the  slaves  of  one  class  were  prohibited  from  marrying 
the  slaves  of  another  class.  The  punishment  for  a  violation 
of  this  law  was  fifty  stripes  and  annulment  of  the  marriage. 
The  slaves  who  guarded  the  Imperial  tombs  were  under  the 
control  of  the  Imperial  Household  officials." 

"  Before  691  a.  d.,  the  sale  of  people  belonging  to  the 
ryom'in^  or  superior  class,  was  common,  but  the  Emperor  Jito 
issued  a  decree  in  that  year  specifying  the  cases  in  which 
the  sale  of  persons  should  involve  degradation  in  social  rank. 


204     An  American   Cruiser  in  the  East 

If  a  peasant  was  sold  for  the  benefit  of  his  elder  brother,  he 
was  not  degraded,  but  if  he  was  sold  for  the  benefit  of  his 
parents,  he  was  degraded,  and  a  person  sold  to  discharge  a 
debt  did  not  lose  his  rank  as  ryomin.  In  the  case  of  traffic 
in  slaves,  a  written  bargain  had  to  be  prepared  and  submitted 
to  the  authorities  for  approval." 


Japanese  Tramps. 

"  A  curious  document  bearing  on  the  sale  and  prices  paid 
for  slaves  in  Japan  was  recently  discovered.  It  gives  an 
account  of  the  sale  of  certain  persons  in  Mino.  There 
were  three  males  and  three  females.  They  realized  a  total 
of  4,900  bundles  of  rice-plants.  The  ages  of  the  three 
males  were  34,  22,  and  15  years,  respectively.  The  two 
elder  slaves  brought  1,000  bundles  each,  and  the  younger 
900.  The  ages  of  the  females  were  22,  20,  and  15  vears, 
respectively.  The  two  elder  ones  realized  800  plants  each, 
and  the  younger  one  600.  Various  marks  of  identity  are 
described,  such  as  red  spots  on  the  left  cheek,  freckles,  etc." 

"  If  they  became  sick  within  three   days  after  the  sale, 


Population   and   Industry   of  Japan      205 

the  sale  was  null  and  void.  In  case  of  runaways  it  was  cus- 
tomary to  pay  a  reward  amounting  to  five  per  cent  of  the 
value  of  the  slave,  if  he  or  she  were  captured  within  one 
month,  and  of  ten  per  cent  when  a  year  had  elapsed 
between   the   runaway   and    capture." 

"  Slaves  might  become  free  and  enter  the  ryomhi^  or 
superior  class,  under  certain  conditions  :  in  case  of  persons 
who  had  been  stolen  and  reduced  to  slavery  illegally  ;  when 
a  master  died  without  an  heir  and  his  house  become  extinct ; 
when  given  their  freedom  by  their  master.  Official  slaves 
became  free  when  reaching  76  years  ot  age,  or  too  ill  to 
work.  Freedom  was  often  obtained  after  a  few  years'  ser- 
vice by  those  who  had  been  reduced  on  account  of  their 
association  with  rebels,  but  not  owing  to  any  prominent 
part  they  had  taken  in  opposing  the  government.  Slaves 
occasionally  obtained  their  freedom  by  displaying  great  pro- 
ficiency in  some  art  or  accomplishment,  and  were  some- 
times released  by  the  will  of  the  sovereign.  In  such  cases 
there  was  usually  some  special  object  in  view,  such  as  the 
encouragement  of  ag-riculture." 

"  There  are  no  reliable  statistics,  and  it  is  not  known 
exactly  how  many  slaves  there  were  at  any  given  time. 
But  it  is  believed  that  they  amounted  to  about  frve  per  cent 
of  the  whole  population,  and  that  the  number  of  female 
slaves  was   slightly   in  excess   of  the  males." 

"  The  early  Tokugawa  Shoguns  were  much  given  to 
social  classifications.  They  not  only  revived  the  old  dis- 
tinctions between  ryomin  and  semm'in^  which  had  nearly 
died  out,  but  also  divided  the  latter  into  a  number  of  minor 
classes.  At  no  time  in  the  history  of  Japan  was  the 
list  of  persons  officially  designated  semm'in  so  large." 

It  was  :  (i)  "  Chori^  originally  the  name  given  to  the  head 
of  Eta^  but  in  later  days  used  as  a  synonym  of  Eta.  (2) 
Eta.  (3)  H'lnin.,  an  outcast,  one  who  is  too  low  to  be 
regarded    as    human ;    originally    applied  to  criminals,  now 


2o6      An  American   Cruiser  in  the  East 

extended  to  beggars.  (4)  Tainaban^  mountain-keepers. 
(5)  Kaivara-ymm^  beggars  who  are  required  to  bury  crim- 
inals. (6)  Ordinary  beggars.  (7)  Sh'iku^  persons  who 
dance  before  shrines.  (8)  Miko^  a  witch,  one  who  tries  to 
appease  angry  spirits.  (9)  Ma'imai^  a  male  dancer  who 
uses  no  music.  (10)  Gaun'in^  a  mendicant  friar.  (11) 
Sodekoi^  a  class  of  mendicant  priests,  who  wear  long-sleeved 
koromo  and  beg  with  a  wooden  bowl,  —  "•  sleeve  beggars." 

(12)  Ombo^    persons    employed    in   the   burning  of  bodies. 

(13)  Niugyo-tsukai^  puppet  showmen.  (14)  Actors.  (15) 
Brothel-keepers.  (16)  Zato^  blind  shampooers.  (17)  Sa7-u- 
gakii  No^  performers.  (18)  Onyoshi^  diviners.  (19)  Plas- 
terers. (20)  Makers  of  earthenware.  (21)  Imonshi^ 
moulders.  (22)  Tsuji-mekura^  wayside  blind  beggars. 
(23)  Saru-hiki^  men  who  exhibit  monkeys.  (24)  Hach'i- 
tatak'i^  priests  who  obtain  money  by  beating  a  metal  bowl 
and  reciting  passages  of  scripture.  (25)  Stone-cutters.  (26) 
Umbrella-menders.  (27)  Ferry  boatmen.  (28)  Dyers. 
(29)  Teuhotate^  the  keepers  of  archery  grounds.  (30)  Pen- 
makers.  (31)  Ink-makers.  (32)  Seki-mori^  barrier  guards. 
(33)  Bell-ringers.  (34)  Shhhi-mai^  persons  who  dance  with 
masks  for  the  amusement  of  children.  (35)  Makers  of 
rain-coats.  (36)  Keepers  of  bath-houses.  (37)  Watchmen. 
(38)  Mlkaiva  mausai^  beggars  who  acted  as  mummers  at 
the  New  Year.  (39)  Jugglers.  (40)  l^W^/,  showmen.  (41) 
Inn  maivashi^  professional  dog-trainers.  (42)  Hanashikoy 
story-tellers.  (43)  Serpent-charmers.  (44)  Nazo  toki^ 
expounder  of  enigmas.  (45)  Chikaramochi^  professional 
athletes.  (46)  Kogo  nuke^  persons  who  crawl  through  a  nar- 
row basket  without  being  hurt  by  the  drawn  sword  attached 
to  it.      (47)  Kitsune-tsukaiy  trainers  of  foxes." 

Why  some  of  these  occupations  were  deemed  ignomin- 
ious, and  why  some  were  not  so  classed,  is  unknown,  but  it 
is  certain  that  every  irregular  method  of  obtaining  a  liveli- 
hood was  considered  a  degradation.      Begging  was  abhorred. 


Population   and   Industry   of  Japan      207 

All  connection  with  dead  bodies  was  supposed  to  defile. 
Even  pen-makers,  who  used  the  hair  of  deer,  and  ink- 
makers,  who  used  the  bones  of  horses  and  cows  for  harden- 
ing their  ink,  were  condemned.  Occupations  were  often 
considered   ignominious   on   account  of  their    associations  j 


A  Coolie. 

archery  grounds  were  often  used  as  meeting  places  of  loose 
character,  hence  they  were  despised. 

During  the  time  of  the  early  Tokugawa  Shoguns,  the 
control  of  se?nmin  of  all  classes  was  intrusted  to  Dauzae- 
mon   and   Kurnma   Zeushichi.      The    powers    with   which 


2o8      An  American   Cruiser  in  the  East 

these  two  men  were  endowed  enabled  them  to  establish 
a  kind  of  judicial  government.  All  the  misdemeanors  of 
semm'in  were  dealt  with  by  these  chiefs,  as  the  Shoguns  con- 
sidered it  beneath  the  dignity  of  ordinary  court  officials  even 
to  pass  judgment  on  the  outcasts  of  society.  The  reign 
of  the  Dauzaemon  family  over  the  Eta  and  other  classes  of 
outcasts  dates  from  the  time  of  the  Kamakura  Shoguns. 
During  the  reigns  of  the  late  Tokugawa  Shoguns,  the 
classes  of  persons  included  among  semm'in  were  gradually 
diminished,  until,  at  the  commencement  of  the  Meji,  —  the 
present  era,  —  the  government  was  memorialized  on  the  sub- 
ject, and  as  a  result  even  the  Eta  and  Hijiin  were  placed 
on  an  equality  with  their  fellow-men.  The  Japanese  have 
never  taken  kindly  to  class  distinctions,  and  I  cannot  show 
these  facts  more  forcibly  than  has  been  done  in  the  preced- 
ing historical  sketch,  and  in  the  following  from  the  "Japan 
Daily  Mail :  "  "  In  no  country  do  a  man's  circumstances 
count  for  so  little,  provided  his  personal  character  merits 
esteem.  A  nobleman's  carriage  standing  in  front  of  the 
humble  home  of  a  highly  valued  friend  of  its  owner  is  a 
sight  no  less  common  than  significant,  and  is  an  abundant 
proof  that  the  assumption  of  our  modern  wealth-worshipping 
world,  and  all  the  senseless  minor  class  distinctions  of  fash- 
ionable society,  are  adjuncts  of  a  civilization  which  in  many 
of  its  characteristics  is  infinitely  inferior  to  that  which  Japan, 
sitting  at  the  feet  of  nature,  has  succeeded  in  developing." 

Japanese  Art 

The  Japanese  have  been  artists,  and  have  given  their 
imagination  full  play  from  the  earliest  ages  of  their  history. 
Their  manners,  customs,  and  dress  are  aesthetic,  and  their 
houses,  lacquers,  bronzes,  porcelains,  and  household  uten- 
sils,—  in  fact,  almost  everything  they  own  or  make,  from 
the  hut  to  the  temple,  from  the  bow  of  a  coolie  to  the  sword 
of  the  Damio,  —  are  artistic. 


Population   and   Industry   of  Japan      209 


INlAKiNG  Umbrellas  in  Japan. 


There  are  no  Cupids,  no  Venuses,  and  no  Apollo  Belve- 
deres, but  there  are  elegant  forms,  and  shapes  in  every 
material  worked  by  man.  There  are  dragons,  monsters, 
landscapes,  and  flowers,  and  many  nameless  forms  that  are 
elegant  products  of  the  imagination.  The  Japanese  are  a 
nation  of  artists  in  conception  and  finish,  and  the  whole 
people  are  appreciative  of  art,  to  the  extent,  at  least,  of  good 
taste  and  form.  Their  art  and  architecture  are  different  in 
style  from  those  we  know  in  Europe  and  America,  and 
must  not  be  measured  and  criticised  by  the  old  rules  and 
standards. 

As  our  fathers  raised  the  tree-trunks,  placed  lintels  across 
them,  and  fitted  a  roof  over  all,  ornamenting  and  decorat- 
ing them  until  they  developed  into  the  various  orders,  simple 
and  complex,  that  we  know  in  Europe  and  America,  so  the 
Japanese  have  advanced  from  the  cave  and  tent  to  the  hut.^ 
and  have  developed  this  until  it  has  expanded   into  the   gor- 

14 


21  o     An  American   Cruiser  in  the  East 

geous  splendors  of  the  temples  at  Nicka,  Sheba,  Uyeno,  and 
other  places,  at  which  artists,  architects,  and  cultured  men 
and  women  from  all  lands  marvel  and  wonder. 

The  Shoguns  were  patrons  of  art ;  and  there  can  be  no 
doubt  that  the  seclusion  of  Japan  from  foreign  intercourse 
kept  that  art  in  pure  channels,  and  caused  artists  to  work 
for  art's  sake  alone,  by  curtailing  the  demand  for  the  rapid 
reproduction  of  their  work  for  commercial  purposes. 

The  elegant  simplicity  and  taste  displayed  in  their  houses 
are  nowhere  excelled,  and  no  people  are  better  housed. 
Their  dress,  in  design,  material,  and  decorations,  is  the 
most  artistic  worn  by  man.  As  a  rule,  their  art  wares  are 
named  from  the  locality  in  which  they  were  made,  or  from 
some  artist  who  made  his  reputation  by  their  production. 

Perhaps  the  oldest  art -workers  in  Japan  are  the  wood  and 
ivory  carvers.  These  artists  ply  their  sharp  cutting  tools, 
and  produce  the  most  natural,  lifelike  representatives  of 
whatever  design  is  born  in  their  fanciful  brains.  This  may 
be  the  ancient  warrior,  the  boatman,  wrestlers,  the  musiime, 
vines,  flowers,  birds,  or  monsters,  —  but  all  are  faithfully 
reproduced,  perfect  models,  and  works  of  art. 

Their  artistic  wood  and  metal  workers  almost  kept  pace 
with  each  other;  and  specimens  of  the  beautiful  produc- 
tions of  these  old  masters  — specimens  that  are  older  than 
the  Christian  religion  —  are  still  to  be  seen.  Both  woods 
and  metals  are  lacquered  ;  but  that  finish  is  usually  put 
upon  wood. 

One  of  the  most  important  operations  is  that  of  thor- 
oughly seasoning  the  wood,  which  these  clever  people  do 
to  perfection.  After  this,  the  various  pieces  are  fitted  to- 
gether, and  the  grain  of  the  wood  is  filled  in  with  a  paste 
made  of  powdered  stone.  After  the  joints  have  been 
made,  and  are  firmly  set  in  place,  the  edges  are  rubbed 
smooth  with  a  fine,  flat  stone,  and  the  whole  article  is 
coated   with   a  composition   of  finely  powdered  burnt  clay 


Population  and  Industry  of  Japan      211 

and  varnish.  When  dry,  it  is  again  smoothed  over  with 
the  stone.  The  article  is  then  covered  with  silk  or  fine 
paper,  which  is  pasted  on  with  great  care  to  prevent  creas- 
ing, and  receives  about  five  coatings  of  the  clay  and  varnish, 
each  coat  being  allowed  to  become  thoroughly  dry  before 
the  next  is  applied.  The  surface  is  then  made  perfectly 
smooth  by  rubbing  with  stone  of  a  verv  fine  giain,  and  the 
lacquer    is   laid  on   with  a  thin,  flat  brush  of  fine  hair,  — 


Japanese  Wood-Carver. 

human  hair  being  preferred  for  this  purpose.  Each 
coat  is  thoroughly  dry  and  hard  before  the  next  is  applied, 
and  the  final  coat  is  laid  on  with  the  utmost  care,  with 
cotton-wool,  and  is  almost  rubbed  off"  with  fine,  soft  paper. 
When  thoroughly  dry,  the  article  is  polished  with  deer's 
horn  ashes,  reduced  to  a  fine  powder  and  applied  with  the 
fingers.      So  far,  we  have  only  finished  the  background. 

The  decoration,  in  gold,  silver,  mother-of-pearl,  or  a 
variety  of  metals,  is  now  to  be  added,  and  the  metallic 
powders  used    for  this  purpose   are   numerous.      The   com- 


212      An   American   Cruiser  in   the   East 

positions  differ  in  size  and  shape,  and  are  distinguished  by 
various  names,  and  the  powders  are  used  to  produce  various 
effects  according  to  the  knowledge  and  skill  of  the  artist. 

Nashiji  is  the  decoration  most  frequently  seen.  It  is 
made  by  covering  the  article  with  particles  of  ground  gold- 
dust,  until  it  resembles  gold  stone,  and  great  skill  is  re- 
quired to  distribute  the  particles  evenly.  This  is  covered 
with  several  coatings  of  fine  transparent  lacquer,  often 
exceeding  a  dozen  in  number.  This  decoration  dates 
from  the  fifteenth  century.  It  is  either  made  of  pure 
gold-dust,  gold  and  silver  dust  mixed,  or  of  silver-dust 
alone. 

Giobu- Nashiji  also  dates  from  the  same  century,  and 
has  small  squares  of  gold-leaf  instead  of  the  powdered 
metal.  Similar  work  is  made  in  mother-of-pearl,  each 
piece  being  applied  separately  with  thin,  pointed  bamboo 
sticks. 

For  Togi-dashi,  ground  and  polished  metals  are  used, 
and  the  design  is  laid  in  a  thicker  lacquer,  and  is  em- 
phasized by  a  fine,  white  powder  and  then  gilt,  the 
brighter  pieces  being  raised  above  those  of  the  lower  tone 
by  means  of  a  stiff  lacquer  and  gold-dust.  When  this  has 
become  dry,  the  parts  which  are  to  be  gilded  are  covered 
with  lacquer,  and  then  thickly  dusted  with  gold  ;  this,  when 
dry,  is  again  thrice  lacquered  and  thoroughly  hardened. 
The  surface  is  then  rubbed  until  the  gilt  design  is  shown. 
Great  care  is  required  to  avoid  injury  to  the  gilding  dur- 
ing the  various  manipulations.  After  the  design  shows 
through  the  glaze,  the  article  needs  to  be  polished. 

In  Hira-makiye,  the  design  is  not  raised  above  the  gen- 
eral surface,  the  design  and  effects  being  produced  bv 
shading  or  softening  the  metals,  or  by  touching  up  and 
toning  mother-of-pearl  or  colors,  when  the  most  beautiful 
effects  are  produced. 

The    Tsui-shiu    (red)    and    Tsui-koku   (black)    lacquers 


Population   and   Industry   of  Japan      2 1  3 

are  carved  out  of  thick  coatings  of  lacquer.  Guri-lac  is 
formed  of  many  layers  of  colored  lacquers,  through  which 
the  designs  are  cut  to  expose  the  layers.  Chiukiu-bori  is 
made  by  incising  the  design  in  line  lines  into  the  body  of 
the  lacquer,  with  a  graver,  and  filling  the  lines  up  with 
powdered  gold. 

Some    of   the    greatest    of    Japanese  artists    have  been 
workers  in  lacquer.     A   list  of  articles  of  this  ware  would 


Japanese  Lacquer  Ware. 


include  entire  suits  of  Japanese  furniture  used  by  the 
princes  and  nobles,  —  boxes,  stands,  trays,  decorations  for 
temples  and  houses,  and  hundreds  of  other  forms.  A  suit 
of  furniture  includes  two  tauser,  or  stands,  on  which  the 
tray  and  nine  boxes  are  placed.  The  boxes  include  large 
ones  for  holding  papers  and  books,  incense  and  game  boxes, 
a  sloping  reading-desk,  and  a  writing-desk,  picnic  boxes, 
fan  boxes,  and   oblong  letter  boxes. 


214      An  American   Cruiser  in  the  East 

A  letter  was  often  placed  in  this  box  and  borne  to  its 
destination  by  a  servant.  Frequently  the  servant's  mouth 
was  bandaged  so  that  he  could  not  breathe  on  the  box,  and 
much  stress  was  laid  on  the  fashion  of  the  cord  around  the 
box,  and  the  manner  of  tying  it.  If  the  recipient  of  the 
letter  was  inferior  to  the  sender,  he  retained  the  box  as  a 
memento  ;  but  if  he  was  an  equal,  he  returned  his  answer 
in  the  box. 

An  Inro  was  a  necessary  part  of  every  gentleman's 
dress.  It  was  made  fast  to  a  netsuke  by  a  silken  cord,  and 
strung  through  his  sash.  It  was  used  for  a  seal  box  or 
for  perfumes  and  medicines. ^  An  Inro  is  made  of  metal, 
wood,  crystal,  bark,  ivory,  shells,  and  lacquered  wood,  and 
usually  has  four  trays,  each  one  fitting  into  another  with 
great  precision. 

Many  of  these  articles  in  lacquer  are  extremely  inter- 
esting and  valuable  specimens  ot  Japanese  art.  Marvellous 
harmony  of  design  and  coloring  are  often  combined  with  a 
minuteness  of  detail  that  causes  us  to  wonder  at  their  com- 
pleteness ;  and  frequently  a  few  rough  strokes,  dashes  of 
a  single  color,  are  so  graphic  that  a  beautiful  picture  is 
produced,  —  a  story  is  told.  Hokusai  and  many  others 
have  made  their  names   famous  by  their  works  in  lacquer. 

In  a  country  where  civil  wars  and  feuds  were  of  frequent 
occurrence,  and  a  stain,  of  any  kind,  upon  one's  good 
name  could  only  be  wiped  out  by  suicide  with  one's  own 
sword,   the   sword  was  brought  to  great  perfection. 

Where  the  art  instinct  was  universal,  and  jewelry  for 
personal    adornment    unknown,   the    sword    was    regarded 

1  Seals  have  been  in  common  use  in  China,  Japan,  and  Korea  for 
ages,  and  formerly  took  the  place  of  a  signature.  They  are  made 
on  small  blocks  of  ivory,  wood,  or  metal,  on  which  is  engraved  the 
owner's  seal.  This  is  placed  on  a  pad  of  vermilion  ink,  and  stamped 
in  one  or  more  places  on  any  document  used. 


Population   and   Industry   of  Japan      2 1 5 

with  deference,  was  subject  to  carefully  prescribed  rules  of 
etiquette,  and  was  handed  down  as  the  most  precious  heir- 
loom ;  it  became  the  dearest  article  of  personal  adorn- 
ment. Artists  manufactured  and  decorated  the  sword 
and  lavished  their  skill  upon  it.  It  is  said  that  they  at- 
tained such  perfection  in  the  blade  that  for  temper  it  was 
unrivalled  in  the  world,  often  performed  marvellous  feats, 
and  acquired  such  a  thirst  for  blood  that  its  owner  was  pro- 
hibited from  wearing  it.  Ornaments  were  lavished  upon 
it,  and  these  were  executed  in  e\'ery  variety  of  metal,  and 
in  designs  so  distinct  that  it  is  extremely  difficult  to  find 
two  exactly  alike. 

To  wear  the  sword  was  a  privilege  to  which  only  the 
lord  and  his  vassal,  the  "Samuri,"  were  entitled.  In  the 
sixteenth  century  the  fashion  of  wearing  two  swords  came 
in.  The  "  kantana,"  about  three  feet  long,  was  for  offence 
and  defence,  and  the  "  waki-zashi,"  about  two  feet  long, 
was  for  the  "  hari-kari  "  (suicide).  A  lighter  sword  than 
the  "  kantana,"  but  of  the  same  size,  and  called  the 
*'  chisakantana,"   was   used   for  dress  and  court   purposes. 

In  full  dress,  the  color  of  the  scabbard  was  black,  with 
a  tinge  of  green  and  red.  The  fittings  and  mountings  of 
these  weapons  are  as  follows  :  the  guard,  or  "  tsube,"  a 
flat  piece  of  metal  that  is  either  square,  circular,  or  oval  in 
form  ;  a  short  dagger,  "  kokatanka,"  which  is  fitted  into 
one  side  of  the  scabbard;  and  the  "kogai,"  a  smaller 
dagger,  or  metal  skewer,  which  is  fitted  into  the  opposite 
side  of  the  scabbard,  and  is  left  as  a  card  in  the  body  of 
an  adversary  killed  in  battle  ;  small  ornaments,  "  menuki," 
placed  on  each  side  of  the  hilt  to  give  a  good  grasp  ;  the 
cap,  "  hashiva,"  of  highly  ornamented  metal,  and  held 
upon  the  head  of  the  hilt  bv  a  silken  cord  which  is  passed 
through  opposite  eves  ;  an  oval  ring  of  metal,  "  fuchi," 
which  encircles  the  base  of  the  handle,  and  through  the 
centre  of  which  the  blade  passes  •,   the  "  kurikata,"  through 


21 6      An  American   Cruiser  in  the  East 

which  the  "  sagewo,"  or  cord  for  holding  back  the  sleeves 
while  fighting,  passes  ;  and  the  "  kejiri,"  or  metal  end  of 
the  scabbard. 

Doctors  and  inferior  officials  wore  the  "aikuchi,"  a  dirk 
without  a  guard,  and  the  "jintochi,"  or  two-handed  sword, 
and  the  "  mamori,"  or  stiletto. 

As  a  rule,  the  artists  confined  themselves  to  particular 
decorations,  although  some  artists  made  several  parts  of 
the  weapon,  and  others  completed  the  entire  sword. 

As  famous  armorers  and  workers  in  metals,  the  Miochiu 
family  have  been  celebrated  since  the  twelfth  century,  and 
they  have  received  marks  of  the  highest  distinction  from 
royalty  for  their  work.  They  made  the  famous  eagle  that 
is  in  the  South  Kensington  Museum,  and  the  sixteenth- 
centurv  dragon  is  their  work. 

In  the  fifteenth  century  the  Goto  family  appeared  as 
workers  in  metal,  and  their  work  has  always  been  held  in 
great  esteem.  They  were  attached  to  the  Shogunate,  and 
always  produced  work  of  the  highest  quality.  The  suc- 
cessors in  the  family  were  always  chosen  from  those  who 
displayed  the  greatest  proficiency  in  the  art  of  metal- 
working. 

In  the  sixteenth  centurv,  Kaneiye,  Nobuiye,  and  Melada 
introduced  damascening,  chasing,  and  inlaying  with  the 
"tsube,"  and  Kaneiye  is  considered  to  have  been  the  creator 
of  artistic  swords. 

At  the  beginning  of  the  seventeenth  century,  the  countrv 
entered  upon  an  era  of  peace  which  extended  over  a  period 
of  about  two  hundred  and  fifty  years.  The  sword-guard 
was  then  adopted  for  dress  purposes  and  to  adorn  the 
sword.  From  this  time  we  see  changes  in  the  character 
of  the  metal  used,  and  the  decorations  employed.  At 
Osaka,  damascenings  of  gold  and  silver  were  used  in  the 
iron.  Kaneiye  incrusted  his  work  with  copper,  and 
enamels    were    introduced    bv    Douin    and    Kinai,    whose 


Population   and   Industry   of  Japan      217 

beautiful    pierced    "  tsubas "    provoke    the    admiration    of 
all  who  examine  them. 

At  the  beginning  of  the  eighteenth  century,  there  were 
three  great  schools  of  these  workers  in  metals, —  the  Nara, 
the  Yokoya,  and  the  Omori.  The  Nara  school  was  com- 
posed of  a  large  number  of  artists,  and  was  started  in  oppo- 
sition to  the  Gotos.  The  Yokoya  school  joined  with  the 
Omori,  and  became  famous  for  its  pierced  and  gold  "tsubas," 
with    their    battle-scenes.      Teruhide  was  famous    for    his 


An  Instrumental  Concert,  Japan, 

waves  and   imitation  of  gold  stone,  and   may  be  considered 
as  of  this  school. 

The  armor,  spears,  and  pikes,  in  elegant  design  and  work- 
manship, kept  close  behind  the  sword,  and  there  are  some 
fine  specimens  by  famous  artists  in  metals. 

The  Japanese  still  lead  the  world  in  the  perfection  of 
their  bronzes,  and  they  have  two  great  schools  of  their  beau- 
tiful art,  the  "  Shakudo  "  and  the  "  Shibuichi."  Their  dif- 
ference consists  in  the  treatment  of  the  metals,  but  the  designs 
may  be  said  to  be  similar.      The  metal   used    in   the  finest 


2 1 8      An  American   Cruiser  in  the  East 

work  is  "  Shakudo,"  —  black,  with  an  almost  imperceptible 
shade  of  blue, — and  is  composed  of  ninety-five  parts  of 
copper,  two  to  four  of  gold,  one  to  one  and  five  tenths  of 
silver,  and  traces  of  lead,  iron,  and  arsenic.  Shibuichi  is 
of  a  lighter  color,  bears  a  slight  resemblance  to  steel,  is 
hard,  of  a  fine  texture,  and  is  composed  of  fifty  to  seventy 
parts  of  copper,  thirty  to  fifty  of  silver,  with  traces  of  gold 
and  iron.  The  precious  metals  are  used  to  produce  dif- 
ferent effects.  In  the  Shakudo,  the  gold  gives  the  rich 
purple  tint,  or  "  patina,"  as  it  is  called.  In  the  Shibuichi, 
the  silver  causes  the  metal  to  assume  its  beautiful  silver- 
gray  tint  under  certain  atmospheric  conditions. 

In  making  these  beautiful  articles,  the  designer  has  the 
shape  formed  in  clay,  —  a  mere  core,  —  whether  vase  or 
other  form,  after  which  he  makes  his  designs  for  decoration. 
These  are  made  of  wax,  and  are  arranged  upon  the  model 
with  wonderful  skill  as  they  are  evolved  from  his  fertile 
brain.  When  the  article  is  sufficiently  decorated, the  whole 
is  covered  with  clay  which  fills  in,  under,  around,  and 
over  each  leaf,  quill,  or  whatever  the  decoration  may  be. 
This  is  a  difficult  operation,  requiring  great  deftness  and  skill. 

When  covered,  a  huge,  ill-shapen  mass  of  clay  is  all  that 
appears  to  represent  the  imagination,  brain,  and  handi-work 
that  has  been  expended.  After  the  mass  has  become 
hardened,  it  is  carefully  turned  about  in  a  fire  to  melt  out 
the  wax  decorations  that  have  been  imprisoned  within  the 
clay,  leaving  the  hollow  spaces  that  correspond  with  leaf  or 
flower,  monster  or  sea.  The  molten  bronze  is  poured  into 
this  hollow  space.  When  cooled,  the  outer  clay  covering 
is  broken  away,  and  the  inner  core  dug  out,  leaving  the 
beautiful   form   ready   for  the   finishers. 

The  finishers  carve,  touch,  and  retouch,  and  polish  with 
chisels,  hammers,  files,  and  scrapers,  producing  the  delicate 
outlines  and  the  high  polish  of  the  finished  piece.  After 
this   has  been  done,  the  article  is  touched  with  chemicals 


Population   and   Industry  of  Japan      219 

to   produce    the    desired   tint,  and    the    artist    receives    the 
criticisms  and   congratulations  of  his   friends. 

Shippo  ware  of  the  Japanese,  Cloisonne  of  the  French, 
is  the  most  beautiful  production  of  pottery.  The  Japanese 
created  this  fascinating  ware,  which  is  a  combination  of 
metal  work  and  enamels,  and  for  contour,  color,  and 
wonderful   finish   is   without  a  rival   in   porcelains. 

The  little  brown,  shock-headed  smith  pounds  the  copper 
into  shape  upon  the  beakhorn  of  his  rude  anvil,  and  dove- 
tails the  meeting  edges  together.  He  then  places  the 
vessel  upon  his  rude  little  furnace  of  live  coals,  spreads 
over  the  flux  and  solder,  and  furiously  fans  the  lurid,  green- 
gold  flame  that  melts  the  solder  and  brazes  the  vessel. 
Satisfied  with  the  perfection  of  this  work,  he  removes  the 
blackened  article,  and  again  hammers  it  to  a  finish  upon 
the  rude  little  anvil.  The  designer  now  takes  the  article, — 
vase,  plaque,  or  whatever  form  it  may  be, — and  outlines  the 
thousand  delicate  and  intricate  designs  that  are  to  be  deline- 
ated upon  the  rough  metal  forms. 

A  second  artist  in  metals  now  clips  silver  and  brass  wire 
into  tiny  pieces,  and  bends  and  fits  them  into  the  many 
shapes  required  by  the  design.  These  almost  microscopic 
curves,  elbows,  angles,  and  circles  are  cemented  over  the 
outlines  made  by  the  designer,  and  stand  up  from  the 
body  of  the  article  like  filigree  work.  When  the  outlines 
are  all  laid  on  in  cement,  the  article  is  taken  once  more 
to  the  furnace,  and  the  wires  are  fused,  thus  securely 
fastening  the  outlines  to  the  body,  and  making  it  one 
complete  thing.  If  the  work  was  now  polished,  it  would 
be  a  beautiful  work  in  filigree ;  but  the  article  is  passed 
to  an  artist  who  is  skilled  in  the  mystery  of  enamels,  who 
fills  in  the  multitudinous  little  crevices  between  the  wires 
with  beautiful  colors. 

After  another   firing  the  article    is    handed  over  to   the 


2  20     An  American   Cruiser  in   the  East 

polisher,  who  polishes  the  rough  surface.  Gradually  the 
rough  surface  disappears,  here  and  there  a  smooth  place 
appears,  until  finally  —  it  may  be  after  hours  or  days  of 
polishing — the  article  is  seen  in  all  its  perfection  of  design 
and  colors,  reds,  yellows,  greens,  and  browns  encased  in 
tiny  threads  of  gilt  and  silver,  —  a  thing  of  beauty  and 
a  joy   forever. 

It  is  said  that  from  the  earliest  ages  in  their  history 
whenever  a  Japanese  died,  his  wife  and  one  or  more  ser- 
vants committed  suicide,  and  the  remains  of  all  were 
interred  together,  so  that  he  might  have  company  and 
consolation  upon  his  long  journey  in  the  land  of  spirits. 
In  the  year  2  B.  c,  the  Mikado  Suinin  issued  an  edict 
abolishing  the  cruel  rite,  but  the  old  fashion  was  persisted 
in.  Nomi-no-Sukune,  an  officer  of  the  court,  devised 
some  clay  images,  and  succeeded  in  having  them  interred 
with    the   remains  of  the   Empress  who  died    in   the  year 

3  A.  D.  This  set  the  fashion,  and  Japanese  ceramic  art 
was  born.  From  this  time,  images  superseded  the  cruel 
suicides,  and  artists  sprang  up,  each  endeavoring  to  make 
his  images  the  truest  to  nature.  The  originator,  Nomi- 
no-Sukune,  was  decorated  Hoji,  or  clay-image-artist,  and 
Japanese   art  branched   out  in   new  directions. 

The  Satsuma  is  recognized  as  the  "  Royal  porcelain  of 
Japan."  It  is  of  creamy  color,  and  has  a  peculiar  crackle 
finish.  It  is  made  by  most  skilful  potters,  and  is  deco- 
rated in  beautiful  designs  with  colors  and  golds.  The 
decorations  are  outlined  in  black,  after  which  bright  pig- 
ments and  pure  gold  are  beautifully  worked  in.  About 
the  year  1600,  the  Prince  of  Satsuma  invaded  Korea,  and 
while  there  became  interested  in  pottery.  He  induced  a 
few  potters  to  settle  in  his  domain,  and  they  became  the 
originators  of  this  beautiful  ware,  under  the  patronage  of 
the  Prince.      This  ware  was  never  off'ered  for  sale,  but  was. 


Population   and   Industry  of  Japan      221 

brought  to  the  highest  degree  of  perfection  attainable,  and 
was  presented,  as  a  special  gift,  to  whomever  the  Prince 
chose  to  honor.  For  many  years  it  was  only  used  by  the 
Mikado  and  nobles.  The  Korean  potters  intermarried 
with  the  Japanese,  and  their  descendants  are  still  working 
this  Satsuma  clay-bank,  and  producing  the  royal  ware  in 
cream,  crackle,  and  gold. 


jAi'Axi'Si':  Artists  decorating  Porcelain. 


In  1670,  a  disciple  of  the  famous  decorator  Tauyu 
decorated  some  pieces  of  colored  enamel  faience  for  the 
Prince  of  Taugen.  The  designs  were  more  elaborate 
than  the  customary  decorations  of  this  ware,  and  the  tew 
pieces  that  remain,  known  as  the  "Satsuma-Taugen,"  are 
among  the  rarest  specimens  of  old  Japanese  pottery. 
They  are  cream  crackle  decorated  with  brown  figures, 
and  are  of  the   Kano  school. 

Satsuma  ware  lost  favor  in  the  seventeenth  century  ;  but 
the  celebrated  decorators,  Kuwabara  and  his  kin,  produced 


22  2      An   American   Cruiser   in   the   East 

a  hard,  close-grained  ware.  They  adhered  to  the  cream- 
color  with  finely  crackled  glaze,  and  their  paste  was  as 
dense  as  ivory.  They  decorated  in  enamelled  diaper  and 
dragons  and  flowers ;  and  Satsuma  regained  its  old  place. 
In  1785,  it  was  further  improved  by  Yanasuke,  an  artist 
of  great  fame,  and  the  ware  of  his  time  is  considered  to  be 
the  finest  ever  made. 

Modern  Satsuma,  made  since  the  visit  of  Commodore 
Perry,  is  decorated  in  Kyoto  for  the  foreign  markets ;  and 
■while  it  is  beautiful,  with  decorations  of  saints,  warriors, 
and  deities,  it  does  not  compare  with  ancient  products  of  the 
kiln  of  the  Prince  of  Satsuma.  There  are  thousands  of 
specimens  of  modern  Satsuma,  but  there  is  nothing  more  rare 
than  a  piece  of  the  old  ware.  It  is  well  to  note,  in  search- 
ing for  the  old  ware,  its  extreme  solidity,  its  graceful  and 
restrained  decoration,  its  ivory-like  surface,  the  sharp,  hard 
edges,  the  perfection  of  gilding,  the  accurate  outlines  of  its 
enamels,  and  the  brilliancy  of  its  delicate  coloring. 

The  Hizen  ware  is  fine,  and  beautiful,  and  gorgeous  in 
decoration.  Great  quantities  of  it  found  its  way  to  Europe 
through  the  Dutch  intercourse,  but  it  was  considered 
second  and  third  rate  ware  in  Japan.  The  shapes  were 
not  Japanese,  but  were  made  to  suit  the  taste  of  the  pur- 
chasers. Huge  vases  and  bowls  and  the  varied  sizes  of 
plates  were  not  in  accordance  with  the  artistic  taste  of  old 
Japan.  The  finest  wares  were  made  in  the  kilns  of  the 
princes,  where  the  best  manipulators  and  decorators  were 
employed,  and  products  of  these  kilns  were  bestowed  as 
princely  gifts.  The  choicest  works  of  blue  and  white  and 
of  Kakiyemon  and  Keuzan  were  rarely  seen  outside  of 
Japan   until  within  the  last  twenty  years. 

I"  ^530?  Shousui  of  Ise  learned  in  China  the  process  of 
decorating  porcelain  with  blue.  He  returned  to  Arita  in 
Hizen,  bringing  with  him  a  small  store  of  raw  mate- 
rial,   which    he    worked    up    into    small     articles,    and    he 


Population   and  Industry  of  Japan      223 

became  famous  as  the  father  of  Japanese  porcelain.  Goro- 
bachi  and  Gorohichi  followed  in  his  lead,  and  carried  on 
the  work  until  the  material  was  exhausted  and  the  manu- 
facture ceased. 

About  1608,  Naboshima  brought  Risanpei,  a  Korean 
potter,  to  Arita,  where  he  found  the  feldspar  which  was 
suitable  for  the  manufacture  of  porcelain.  Blue-and-white 
porcelain  was  made,  but  it  was  about  fifty  years  before  the 
discovery  of  the  art  of  using  vitrifiable  enamels,  which 
require  a  second  firing  over  the  glaze,  at  low  temperatures. 

Porcelain,  in  Japan,  was  first  decorated  over  the  glaze 
about  1650.  This  process  was  introduced  by  Takuzaye- 
mon,  who  learned  it  in  China.  Takuzayemon  was  neither 
potter  nor  artist  ;  but  Kakiyemon,  a  good  potter  and  a  bold 
artist,  learned  the  secrets  from  his  friend,  struck  out  in 
new  directions,  and  produced  decorations  in  colored  enam- 
els which  created  a  new  school  in  Japanese  porcelains. 
He  attained  a  degree  of  perfection,  both  in  material  and 
style,  that  have  never  been  surpassed.  His  ware  has  a 
fine,  hard,  white  base,  and  gives  a  clear,  bell-like  sound.  It 
is  decorated  with  bamboo  and  plum  blossoms,  or  with  corn 
sheaves  and  flowers,  and  sometimes  with  fluttering  birds. 

At  Imari,  blue-and-white  decorations  under  the  glaze,  at 
a  single  firing,  are  still  produced,  and  some  specimens  rival 
the  finest  work  of  the  Chinese. 

Kameyarna  and  Hirado  kilns  produced  beautiful  blue- 
and-white   porcelain  in  the  eighteenth  century. 

Mikawa-uchi  ware  was  presented  by  the  Prince  of 
Hirado  to  the  Shogun  and  his  private  friends.  The  paste 
was  finely  powdered,  strained,  and  bleached,  while  the 
glazes  were  delicately  prepared.  The  white  is  clear  and 
the  blue  is  soft,  very  different  from  the  intense  blue  of  the 
old  Chinese  ware.  The  delicacy  of  the  design,  execution, 
and  perfection  of  the  firing,  are  not  approached  by  any 
porcelains  in  the  world. 


2  24     ^^  American   Cruiser  in  the  East 

Kutana  ware,  another  celebrated  porcelain,  originated 
with  Saijiro  at  Kutana  in  the  province  of  Koga.  In  1658, 
the  Prince  of  Koga  sent  Saijiro  to  Hizen  to  study  the 
art.  Soon  after  his  return  to  Kutana,  he  discovered  a 
clay  from  which  was  produced  the  exquisite  decorations  in 
red,  green,  yellow,  violet,  silver,  and  gold,  which  made  the 
ware  famous.  After  the  death  of  Saijiro,  the  ware  soon 
lost  its  reputation,  as  his  pupils  could  not  maintain  tho 
master's  style  or  finish. 

Towards  the  end  of  the  seventeenth  century,  Morikage 
took  charge  of  the  work  at  Koga.  He  introduced  freedom 
and  boldness  in  design,  and  soon  made  the  ware  famous. 
His  products  vary  in  subject,  and  are  in  rare  tints  of  green, 
yellow,  and  violet.  After  Morikage's  death,  the  pottery 
again  deteriorated  in  quality,  and  the  base  became  dark, 
almost  black. 

In  1 8 14,  the  process  of  decoration  in  red  was  redis- 
covered by  Yoshidaya,  who  produced  beautiful  wares  in 
that  color  and  gold.  These  soon  became  famous,  and  bear 
the  artist's  name.  In  1878,  Zingoro  produced  a  more 
brilliant  porcelain  by  substituting  gold-leaf  for  the  powder, 
and  using  cleaner  color.  Seto,  in  the  province  of  Owaii, 
produced  commercial  pottery  for  several  centuries,  but  it 
was  not  until  1801  that  Tamekichi  commenced  to  make 
porcelain.  The  products  of  these  potteries  are  beautiful, 
and  may  be  seen  all  over  the  Empire.  A  beautiful  ware 
in  delicate  blue  and  white  is  produced  at  Kiyowezer,  near 
Kyoto.  It  may  be  recognized  by  its  coarse  paste  and  its 
dark-blue  decoration. 

The  Japanese  devoted  their  genius  as  artists  to  faience, 
into  which  they  introduced  the  most  subtle  and  surprising 
effects  by  delicate  shades  of  color,  and  quaint  forms. 
Their  love  for  artistic  pottery  dates  back  to  the  ninth  cen- 
tury, since  which  time  their  amateurs  have  cherished  the 
richly    glazed    Seiji    ware,   which    was    copied    from,    and 


Population   and   Industry   of  Japan      225 

excelled,  the  Chinese  work.  The  early  Shigaraki  ware  is 
rough,  is  skilfully  made,  and  has  a  beautiful  glaze  ;  the 
Soma  ware  has  an  impressed  horse  ;  the  Takatori  ware 
has  a  bright  lustre.  Other  varieties  are  the  old  Banko  and 
Higo  wares,  the  Yatsushina,  and  the  Kiuezan,  with  its 
rich  raised  blue  enamels,  the  Oribe,  with  mottle  glaze,  and 
the  old  lube  or  Bizen  ware,  with  its  reddish-brown  glaze, 
one  of  the  oldest  Japanese  wares,  dating  back  fully  five 
hundred  years. 

Kakiyemon,  Niusei,  and  Keuzan  are  the  three  celebrated 
names  in  the  history  of  Japanese  porcelains.  They  flour- 
ished between  the  years  1624  and  1652,  and  during  these 
years  Japanese  decorative,  ceramic  art  was  at  its  height. 
Niusei  worked  at  Kyoto,  and  his  products  were  the  cream- 
colored  wares  of  "  Awata."  The  ware  is  made  of  a  hard 
paste,  has  a  very  fine,  uniform  crackle,  and  is  enamelled  on 
a  buff  ground,  with  floral  decorations  in  green  and  blue 
tints  heightened  with  gold.  This  work  laid  the  foundation 
for  a  great  school  in  faience  which  has  come  down  to  our 
times.  Kyoto  was  filled  with  potteries  which  followed  the 
style  of  Niusei,  but  these  products  do  not  equal  his  in  glaze, 
crackle,  or  enamels. 

Kirko-Zau,  who  was  a  follower  of  Niusei,  in  the  next 
century,  brought  the  Awata  products  to  great  perfection, 
and  introduced  a  raised,  dark-purple  enamel  in  relief.  The 
work  of  this  artist  is  fine,  with  uniform  crackle;  clear 
and  finished  in  design  and  execution,  while  the  Awata  ware 
of  the  present  day  is  thin,  cold,  and  dry  in  glaze,  and  the 
enamels  are   not  so  perfect. 

Keuzan  was  no  less  famous  than  Niusei.  He  was  a 
bold,  dashing  painter,  and  originated  a  new  style  of  free- 
hand decorations  in  birds,  flowers,  grasses,  and  delicate 
landscapes.  He  flourished  between  the  years  1663  and 
1743,  and  his  style  still  influences  all  the  Japanese,  Euro- 
pean, and  American   decorative  pottery.      Free-hand   floral 

15 


2  26      An  American   Cruiser  in  the  East 

decoration  on  china  was  not  known  before  his  time.  Keu- 
zan  was  a  poet  as  well  as  an  artist,  and  he  did  not  hesitate 
to  indite  verses  upon  his  landscapes.  His  work  has  the 
rough  boldness  of  a  masterful  artist,  a  leader,  not  a  follower 
in  style  ;  and  his  productions  are  amongst  the  rarest  and  most 
precious  products  of  the  Japanese  kilns. 

In  writing  of  this  Japan,  where  everything  is  so  artistic 
and  beautiful,  I  could  not  persuade  myself  to  neglect  the 
introduction  of  these  few  lines  on  its  leading  art  works, — 
works  which  have  had  great  influence  over  the  lives  and 
happiness  of  its  people,  and  necessarily  modify  their  inter- 
course with  the   outside  world 


A  Chinese  Cart. 


CHAPTER   XII 


A    TRIP    TO    THE    NORTHWESTWARD 


AT  about  half-past  six  on  an  o\ercast  morning  in  May, 
which  was  Sunday,  we  left  our  anchorage  and  stood 
out  of  the  harbor  of  Hyogo,  Japan,  bound  for  Chefoo, 
China.  As  we  passed  the  flagship  we  gave  the  "  flag  "  a 
steaming  salute,  having  the  marines  drawn  up  in  line,  at  a 
present  arms,  on  the  poop  deck,  and  dipping  the  ensign. 
Our  course  was  through  the  beautiful  Inland  Sea  of  Japan 
as  far  as  the  Straits  of  Shimonoseki,  then  heading  to  the 
northward  and  westward,  across  the  Yellow  Sea  to  Chefoo 
on  the  Shantung  promontory.  We  had  not  gone  very  far 
on  our  way,  perhaps  twenty  miles  or  so,  when  the  weather 
became  thick  and  foggy.  We  kept  on  blowing  our  steam- 
whistle  at  inter\als,  and  steaming  alono;  at  a  slow  rate  of 
speed. 

At   about   nine   o'clock   there  was  a  bump,  and  we   soon 
realized   that   the   old   ship   had   struck  a  sand   beach  which 


2  28      An   American   Cruiser  in   the  East 

had  not  respect  enough  for  us  to  keep  out  of  the  way. 
We  were  soon  surrounded  by  natives  in  sampans,  who  were 
attracted  by  the  novelty  of  seeing  a  great  ship  so  near  their 
little  village.  On  investigation,  we  found  ourselves  to  be 
in  front  of  the  village  of  Akashi,  Japan.  After  some  good 
hard  backing  of  the  engines,  the  ship  was  gotten  out  of  the 
sand  into  deep  water,  when  the  anchor  was  let  go  and  we 
remained  until  about  noon ;  when,  as  the  weather  had 
cleared  somewhat,  the  anchor  was  raised  and  another  start 
made.  We  ran  along  until  darkness  set  in,  when  we 
anchored  for  the  night.  After  all  was  quiet  about  the  ship, 
and  "  Jacky  "  was  snugly  stowed  in  his  "  dream-bag,"  lost 
to  the  world,  perhaps  dreaming  of  his  home  and  loved  ones, 
the  ship's  bell  rang  out  the  alarm  for  fire,  which  soon 
brought  all  of  us  to  our  feet.  Hammocks  were  quietly 
triced  up  and  stowed,  and  all  hands  were  at  their  places  for 
fire  quarters.  We  soon  discovered  that  it  was  only  a  drill. 
It  is  alwavs  a  relief  to  know  that  there  is  no  actual  fire,  for 
there  is  no  more  trying  position  than  that  upon  a  burning 
ship  at  sea.  After  running  out  the  hose  and  starting  the 
pumps,  the  retreat  was  sounded.  When  everything  had 
been  secured,  the  crew  went  off  to  whisper  about  the 
"  old  man,"  and  once  more  to  try  the  soft  side  of 
a  mattress ;  but  these  whisperings  were  short-lived,  as 
in  a  few  minutes  the  rattle  was  sounded  for  "  general 
quarters."  Hammocks  were  again  made  up  and  stowed  ; 
lights  were  put  out  in  a  very  unceremonious  manner;  the 
magazine  was  opened,  and  powder  and  shell  were  passed 
upon  the  deck;  while  the  great  guns  were  "cast  loose" 
and  loaded.  Two  rounds  were  fired  from  each  gun,  when 
"secure"  and  "retreat"  sounded,  and  everyone  repaired 
to  his  "  downy  couch  "  and  endeavored  to  make  up  the 
lost  sleep.  Early  the  next  morning  the  anchor  was  raised, 
and  we  picked  our  way  among  the  islands.  On  the 
second    day   we    passed    through    the   interestino;    Straits   of 


A  Trip  to  the  Northwestward       229 

Shimonoseki,  where  the  gallant  McDougal  forced  his  way 
in  the  "Wyoming,"  in  1863;  not  without  a  hot  fight, 
for  the  Japanese  were  well  prepared  for  him,  and  bravely 
contested  his  passage  inch  by  inch,  but  the  brave  Yankee 
skipper  won  the  fight  ;  and  the  "  Wyoming  "  passed  into 
the   Inland  Sea. 

Later,  the  Japanese  government  paid  a  heavy  indemnity 
for  the  benefit  of  the  families  of  the  killed  and  wounded  in 
this  affair;  but  still  later,  this  sum,  together  with  the  accu- 
mulated interest,  was  returned  to  the  Japanese,  who  appro- 
priated the  whole  amount  to  the  erection  of  the  breakwater 
at  Yokohama,  which  protects  shipping  in  that  harbor  from 
the  effects  of  typhoons  that  sometimes  sweep  up  the  Bay 
of  Yeddo. 

The  Straits  of  Shimonoseki  are  well  surveyed  and  marked 
by  beacons,  lights,  and  bearings  ;  but  as  the  tide  runs  very 
strong,  and  there  are  whirlpools  and  eddies,  it  is  safest  to  go 
through  at  a  good  rate  of  speed  and  in  the  daylight.  The 
surrounding  hills  are  well  fortified,  and  they  are  still  being 
terraced  and  strengthened.  There  is  a  strong  garrison 
stationed  on  the  hills,  above  the  city.  Shimonoseki  is  not 
one  of  the  open  ports,  and  foreign  vessels  do  not  stop  here 
unless   they   are  in   distress. 

At  about  nine  in  the  morning  we  stood  to  the  westward  ; 
and  when  the  vessel  was  well  clear  of  the  land,  the  engines 
were  stopped  and  the  propeller  was  disconnected.  The 
entire  morning  was  devoted  to  sail  exercises,  tacking  and 
wearing  ship  ■,  and  while  the  men  were  aloft,  many  of  them 
busy  on  the  yard-arm,  a  dummy,  that  had  been  quietly 
prepared,  was  pushed  out  of  one  of  the  cabin  ports,  and 
soon  the  cry  was  raised  of  "  Man  overboard  !  "  The 
men  tumbled  down  from  aloft,  while  the  head  sails  were 
thrown  aback,  lifeboats  manned  and  lowered,  and  the 
"  dummy  "  was  brought  on  board,  much  to  the  disgust 
of  the  junior   watch,   who   had    the  deck    and    was    under 


230     An  American   Cruiser  in   the  East 

the  impression  that  it  was  really  one  of  the  men  who 
had  fallen  overboard.  This  ended  the  drill,  and  the  vessel 
was  soon  again  steaming  to  the  northwestward  on  her 
course. 

As  we  proceeded  on  our  way,  the  wind  freshened  and 
the  sea  increased,  until  by  night  we  had  about  as  much  of 
each  as  was  wanted,  —  and  a  little  more  than  was  com- 
fortable, for  the  ship  rolled  and  pitched  to  such  a  degree 
that  it  was  very  difficult  to  hang  on,  and  impossible  to  keep 
on  one's  feet  without  being  lashed  to  some  fixed  part  of  the 
ship.  It  was  deemed  expedient  to  "  heave  to  "  for  the  night, 
the  engines  turning  just  fast  enough  to  keep  steerage-way 
and  prevent  the  ship  from  falling  off  into  the  trough  of  the 
sea.  By  daylight,  the  wind  quieted  down,  and  we  had  a 
smooth  sea,  with  just  breeze  enough  to  blow  the  smoke 
away  ;  but  the  thermometer  indicated  90°  in  the  shade,  with 
a  mucky,  sultry  atmosphere  that  was  anything  but  pleasant. 
The  speed  of  the  engines  was  increased  to  about  the  full, 
and  the  ship  sped  on  at  a  good  rate  until  night  set  in,  when 
the  weather  became  so  thick  and  foggy  that  we  could  not 
see  about  the  decks,  and  it  was  impossible  for  the  look- 
outs to  see  for  any  great  distance  from  the  vessel.  There 
was  no  alternative  but  to  slow  the  engines  and  feel  the 
way,  keeping  the  steam-whistle  blowing,  at  intervals,  to 
warn  the  people  on  any  other  vessel  in  our  vicinity,  while 
we  were  compelled  to  avoid  several  ugly,  jagged  rocks 
'  which  show  their  horrid  "  fangs  "  above  the  surface  of  the 
sea,  like  very  monsters  guarding  the  approaches  to  fair 
Korea. 

About  noon  of  the  next  day  we  entered  the  Yellow  Sea, 
the  sea  which  separates  Japan  from  Korea.  As  there  are 
no  rocks  until  near  the  coast  of  China,  at  Shantung,  two 
hundred  and  eighty  miles  distant,  in  spite  of  the  thick 
weather,  we  pushed  the  ship,  and  arrived  off  Chefoo  on  the 
sixth  day  after  leaving  Kobe. 


A  Trip  to  the  Northwestward       231 


Chefoo,  China 

Yantai  is  the  port  to  which  the  name  of  Chefoo  has  been 
applied.  As  a  matter  of  fact,  Yantai  is  in  the  vicinity  of 
Chefoo,  but  has  no  connection  with  it.  While  the  town 
was  in  possession  of  the  French  troops,  business  men 
crowded  there  and  settled  about  the  camps  under  their  pro- 
tection ;  and  as  there  was  no  fixed  plan  of  settlement,  many 
of  their  houses  were  surrounded  by  native  buildings,  hence 
they  now  have  disagreeable  neighbors,  and  what  should 
have  been  one  of  the  pleasantest  places  of  residence  in  the 
far  East  has  been  marred  by  the  undesirable  surroundings. 

The  later  foreign  settlement  has  grown  up  along  the  sea- 
shore, where  there  is  a  fine  sandy  beach.  For  miles 
beyond  the  town,  stretches  a  gently  rolling  country,  and 
back  of  this  the  hills  rise  into  mountains,  and  render  the 
landscape  interesting  and  varied. 

In  consequence  of  its  wonderful  climate  and  beautiful 
beach,  Chefoo  is  the  summer  resort  of  many  foreign  resi- 
dents of  China.  Here,  as  all  over  the  East,  the  houses 
occupied  by  foreigners  are  built  of  sun-dried  bricks,  covered 
with  plaster,  and  painted  in  some  pleasing  color.  The 
doorways  and  window  openings  are  usually  trimmed  with 
stone,  and  the  roof  is  covered  with  tiles.  The  houses  are 
of  large  proportions,  have  spacious  verandahs  on  every  floor 
and  side,  are  situated  in  commodious,  well-kept  gardens, 
and  have  an  air  of  elegant  comfort  that  is  not  seen  else- 
where. As  a  rule,  the  furniture  and  fixtures  are  products 
of  Eastern  art,  and  are  poems  and  marvels  in  woods,  metals, 
stones,  porcelains,  and  silks.  There  are  six  commodious 
churches  of  various  Christian  denominations,  and  a  fine 
club-house  where  everything  necessary  for  the  comfort  of 
man  can  be  obtained. 

In  the  older  settlement,  and  on  the  beach,  are  fine  hotels, 


232 


An   American   Cruiser   in   the   East 


which  for  appointments  and  comfort  cannot  be  excelled  in 
the  Eastern  world.  There  are  many  fine  shops,  where 
goods  that  have  been  imported  from  every  part  of  the  world 
can  be  obtained,  from  "  Murray's  canned  corn  "  to  the  trap- 
pings for  a  lady's  saddle-horse. 

My  guide  and  I,  mounted  in  sedan  chairs,  made  a  trip 
into  the  country  and  through  the  native  city.  The  guide, 
Ah-Sin,  did  not  speak  very  good  American,  and  I  had  some 
difficulty  in  making  him  understand  my  Chinese ;  but  as  mv 
principal  need  of  him  was  to  point  out  the  roads,  we 
managed  to  get  along  fairly  well.  He  was  very  patient 
with  me ;  indeed,  I  do  not  remember  any  creature  more 
patient  than  a  coolie,  who  is  paid  for  an  afternoon's  ride  in 
a  sedan  chair  while  guiding  a  "  foreign  devil." 

On  our  way  to  visit  the  native  citv,  we  passed  out  of  the 
settlement  into  the  broad  countrv,  which  is  traversed,  here 
and  there,  by  little  paths  not  more  than  a  yard  in  width. 
Each  path  has  a  narrow  ditch  running  parallel  with  one  side 
of  it,  and  these  little  paths  are  the  highways  of  this  section. 
Coolies  with  heavy  burdens  upon  their  backs,  and  little 
Chinese  ponies,  laden  with  provisions,  or  great  timbers,  or 
some  heavy  piece  of  machinery,  were  led  by  their  masters 
towards  the  distant  mountains.  All  about  these  paths  are 
little  gardens,  where  vegetables  are  grown  to  sell  to  the 
residents  of  the  settlement.  My  curiosity  was  aroused 
by  the  sight  of  grave-like  huts  in  one  corner  of  almost 
every  garden  spot.  They  looked  like  places  into  which 
these  poor  people  might  crawl  and  die ;  but  they  proved  to 
be  the  homes  of  the  lonely  gardeners,  and  near  each  one  of 
them  there  is  a  little  well  from  which  they  draw  water  to 
supply  their  thirsty  plants. 

As  it  is  a  dry,  rainless  district,  irrigation  of  the  land  is 
necessary ;  and  this  is  accomplished  by  raising  water  from 
the  wells  and  pouring  it  into  little  ditches,  whence  it  runs 
about  the  land.      Many  of  these  poor  people  seemed   to  be 


A  Trip   to   the   Northwestward       233 

continually  lifting  basketfuls  of  water  out  of  these  holes  in 
the  ground,  and   pouring  it  into  these  earthen  gutters. 

After  yielding  two  and  three  crops  in  a  year,  this  land 
is  still  as  productive  as  almost  any  well-kept  garden  in 
America.  After  the  Japanese,  the  Chinese  are  the  finest 
agriculturists  in  the  world  ;  they  are  patient,  hard  workers, 
and  never  tire  of  turning  over,  cleaning  up,  and  manuring 
the  land. 

The  United  States  Consul  at  this  place  has  interested 
himself  in  introducino-  California  fruits  to  the  farmers  of 
the  country,  and,  by  so  doing,  he  has  varied  the  products 
of  one  class,  and  added  to  the  table  luxuries  of  the  other. 

All  about  these  hills,  we  see  schools,  missions,  and 
churches,  —  monuments  to  the  good  women  and  men  who 
have  left  their  kin  and  friends  in  Christian  lands  to  teach 
these  people  how  to  live  and  die,  and  for  what  to  hope. 

Having  reached  the  gateway  in  the  mud  wall  of  the 
native  city,  we  were  received  with  much  shouting  and  con- 
siderable bustle,  of  which  the  guide  came  in  for  only  a 
small  share,  as  his  rank  did  not  count  for  much;  but  mv 
importance  seemed  to  be  increased  by  having  the  servant 
with  me.  Ah-Sin  explained  the  situation  to  the  mob,  and 
after  the  expenditure  of  some  ''  cash,"  we  were  permitted 
to   proceed   on  our  way  in   peace. 

After  passing  through  the  city,  we  found  the  streets  and 
roads  —  narrow,  crooked,  unpaved,  and  dirty  —  receptacles 
for  the  abominations  of  the  place.  The  poor,  rickety  huts 
are  made  of  mud,  which  is  piled  up  and  allowed  to  dry  in 
the  sunshine,  after  which  a  thatched  roof  of  straw  is  placed 
over  it.  The  best  houses  —  but  there  are  very  few  best 
among  them  —  are  built  of  sun-dried  bricks,  and  the  walls 
look  as  if  in  any  excitement  or  crowding  they  would  fall 
to  the  ground.  There  is  not  a  shop  in  the  miserable  town 
equal  to  the  poorest  of  the  thousands  to  be  found  in  the 
business  portion  of  old   Canton. 


2  34      Ai^  American   Cruiser   in   the   East 

The  day  was  sultry,  and  a  great  many  native  gentlemen 
of  leisure  were  taking  their  siestas  on  the  roadsides,  dressed 
in  their  birthday  clothes,  as  is  the  custom  in  this  part  of  the 
world.  We  could  not  find  anything  in  the  wretched  little 
shops  to  serve  as  a  memento  of  the  visit,  and  as  a  last 
resort  we  offered  a  price  to  one  of  the  gentry  for  the  pipe 
he  was  smoking.  He  evidently  thought  the  offer  too  good 
to  lose,  and  closed  the  bargain  by  surrendering  the  pipe, 
which   we  brought  off  in  triumph. 

This  section  contains  the  most  unskilful  mechanics  that 
we  have  seen  in  the  East.  The  boats  and  sampans  in  the 
harbor  are  clumsy,  rough,  and  heavy.  We  saw  some  car- 
penters, "  wood-butchers,"  at  work  in  the  town,  doing  the 
very  worst  with  a  piece  of  wood  that  was  ever  seen,  hack- 
ing, chopping,  and  botching  it  to  such  an  extent  that  it  was 
a  pity  the  poor  wood  could  not  cry  out  in  protest  against 
the  rough  usage. 

As  we  passed  along  we  saw  the  native  process  of  making 
bricks.  Two  or  three  coolies  pour  water  into  a  hole  in  the 
ground,  two  or  three  others  scatter  straw  over  the  water, 
while  others  jump  about  in  it  for  the  purpose  of  mixing  the 
mud  and  straw  together.  I  cannot  imagine  why  they  do 
not  let  their  great  fat  hogs  do  this,  unless  it  is  because  they 
prefer  to  have  the  fun  themselves.  When  sufficiently 
mixed,  the  mud  is  scooped  up  in  basket- shovels,  and  carried 
to  other  men  who  place  it  in  wooden  frames  ("  moulds  ")  the 
size  of  the  proposed  bricks.  These  men  press  the  mixture 
into  the  frames  ;  it  is  levelled  up,  and  then  placed  in  the 
sun  to  dry.  No  attempt  is  made  to  smooth  the  bricks  ; 
on  the  contrarv,  they  are  roughened,  we  were  informed,  for 
the  purpose  of  making  them  hold  to  the  mud-mortar. 

We  visited  the  only  temple  that  we  could  find  in  the 
place.  It  is  nearly  in  the  centre  of  the  city,  a  mean  old 
structure  well  on  the  road  to  ruin.  Some  "sing-song" 
men  were  performing   in  its  front  courtyard,  one  old  fellow 


A  Trip  to   the  Northwestward       235 

doing  a  first-class  bass;  and  as  he  had  a  very  large  audience, 
there  can  be  no  doubt  that  the  performance  was,  according 
to  native  taste,  fine. 

Everywhere  we  heard  comments  upon  the  dryness  of 
this  climate,  and  I  am  free  to  say  that  I  believe  it  is  one 
of  the  drvest  climates  in  the  world,  but  it  is  said  to  have 
the  healthiest  climate   in   China. 

In  the  long  winters  when  the  Pei-ho  River  is  frozen 
over,  the  mails  and  merchandise  for  the  more  northern 
cities  are  landed  at  this  point,  and  conveyed  overland  to 
their  destination.  The  harbor  is  commodious,  and  there 
is  sufficient  depth  of  water  for  vessels  of  large  draught.  It 
is  exposed,  however,  to  strong  gales,  which  prevail  at  certain 
seasons  of  the  year. 

Very  important  fortifications  have  been  constructed  by 
the  Chinese  authorities  at  Port  Arthur,  Wei-Hai-Wei,  and 
on  neighboring  hills,  for  the  defence  of  the  place. 

The  population  of  Chefoo  is  about  thirty-three  thousand, 
of  whom  about  six  hundred  are  foreigners.  Its  trade  is  prin- 
cipally in  beans  and  beancake,  of  which  enormous  quantities 
are  sent  to  the  southern  ports  of  China.  The  total  value  of 
the  trade  of  the  port  is  about  $17,000,000.  Large  quan- 
tities of  fine  fish  are  caught  near  by,  which  are  salted  for 
the  market. 

Wei-Hai-Wei 

Wei-Hai-Wei,  the  most  important  stronghold  and  ar- 
senal in  China,  is  situated  on  the  southern  shore  of  the 
Gulf  of  Pichili,  about  twenty  miles  to-the  eastward  of 
Chefoo.  It  is  an  old  walled  city  among  the  hills,  whose 
inhabitants  are  well-to-do  producers  of  silk  and  workmen 
in  the  arsenal. 

The  city  is  of  great  size,  including  within  its  walls  many 
cultivated   fields.      The  wall   is   dilapidated    in    places,  and 


236      An  American   Cruiser  in  the  East 

many  of  its  gates  are  closed.  The  western  gate  is  in 
general  use.  There  are  several  famous  temples  among 
the  hills  in  the  northwestern  corner  of  the  city. 

Large  quantities  of  silk  are  made  from  wild  silkworms, 
which  are  fed  with  leaves  of  the  oak  shrub  that  covers  the 
surrounding  hills. 

Wei-Hai-Wei  has  a  naval  college  where  young  men 
are  educated  to  become  cadets  in  the  Chinese  Imperial 
Navy.  It  has  a  commodious,  well-sheltered  harbor,  formed 
by  mountain  rocks  which  extend  into  the  sea,  and  almost 
meet  a  large  island  which  lies  across  the  northeastern  side 
of  the  harbor  and  protects  it  from  the  winds.  This  har- 
bor will  accommodate  a  large  fleet,  and  affords  good  shelter 
from  typhoons.  It  can  be  entered  in  the  winter  when  the 
other  ports  are  closed  by  ice.  Its  forts  and  earthworks 
are  located  on  almost  every  rock  and  hill,  and  bristle  with 
Armstrong  and  Krupp  guns  of  heaviest  calibre. 

Wei-Hai-Wei  contains  the  most  extensive  arsenals  and 
shops  in  the  Empire  for  the  manufacture  of  war  material, 
and  is  believed  by  the  Chinese  to  be  impregnable. 


Chemulpo,  Korea. 


CHAPTER    XIII 


A    TRIP    TO     KOREA 


WE  sailed  from  Chefoo  on  the  afternoon  of  the  7th, 
and  dropped  our  anchor  on  the  Korean  coast 
in  a  hurry  in  full  sight  of  some  of  the  ugliest  rocks  that 
ever  confronted  a  seaman.  The  run  across  the  Gulf  of 
Pichili  had  been  as  pleasant  as  could  be  desired,  as 
there  was  no  wind,  and  the  sea  was  as  smooth  as  a 
mirror;  even  the  almost  ceaseless  long-swell  of  old  ocean 
was  gone. 

The  sun  shone  brightly  by  day,  and  the  sunsets  were 
ever  to  be  remembered  for  their  greens  and  golds  and  grays. 
Quiet  and  gorgeous  tints  blended  into  a  beauty   such  as  no 


238      An  American   Cruiser  in   the   East 

artist  could  reproduce.  The  nights  were  as  near  perfec- 
tion as  those  that  mortals  dream  of,  but  seldom  realize. 
The  moon,  about  half-full,  shone  out  resplendent  in  a 
silver  sheen,  deepened  by  the  clearness  of  the  heavenly 
vault ;  and  Jupiter  shone  amongst  the  lesser  planets  and 
stars,  like  a  globe  of  fiery  whiteness.  Early  the  next 
morning  a  great  rainbow  spanned  the  heavens,  while  its 
ends  were  in  the  sea  and  reminded  us  of  the  old  saw, 

"  Rainbow  in  the  morning,  sailors  take  warning  ; 
Rainbow  at  niglit  is  the  sailor's  delight." 

But  as  we  have  all  gotten  away  from  the  "  unlucky 
Fridays  "  and  other  superstitions  of  the  sea,  this  beautiful 
rainbow  only  impressed  us  by  its  brightness  and  symmetry 
of  form. 

Later  in  the  day,  after  the  men  had  finished  their  hard- 
bread  and  coffee,  the  ship's  decks  were  cleared,  a  target 
was  anchored  about  one  thousand  yards  from  the  vessel, 
and  we  had  target  practice  with  great  guns.  All  being 
in  readiness,  the  ship  was  gotten  under  way  and  steamed 
back  and  forth  and  about  the  target.  The  guns  were 
loaded  with  powder  and  shell  and  fired  at  the  target.  Ob- 
servers were  stationed  on  certain  lines  and  in  the  ship's 
maintop  to  note  and  record  the  line  and  effect  of  each 
shot.  Many  of  the  shots  were  excellent,  and  all  were 
good. 

After  luncheon  there  was  exercise  with  machine  guns, 
rifles,  and  revolvers.  As  each  man's  name  was  called, 
he  stepped  in  front  of  the  line,  fired  his  piece  at  the 
target  which  had  been  brought  nearer  to  the  \essel,  and 
fell  back  in  place.  Some  of  this  work  was  most  ex- 
cellent. After  these  exercises  we  anchored  the  ship  for 
the  night. 

The  next  morning  we  started  for  Chemulpo,  Korea, 
where  we  arrived   at  about   five  in  the   afternoon,  anchor- 


A  Trip  to  Korea  239 

ing  in  the  outer  harbor  about  three  miles  from  the  town, 
and  about  two  miles  from  Roze  Island,  as  we  were  afraid 
to  anchor  in  the  inner  harbor,  where  the  rise  and  fall  of 
the  tide  is  nearly  thirty  feet,  and  sandbars  make  the  navi- 
gation uncertain. 

Chemulpo,  Korea 

The  town  of  Jeuchuan,  or  Juisen,  known  to  the  Japan- 
ese as  Junsen,  is  situated  at  the  entrance  of  the  Satee 
River,  a  branch  of  the  Han,  and  about  east  of  Roze  Island, 
on  the  west  coast  of  Korea,  in  the  province  of  Kuing-Kei. 
The  town  has  grown  in  a  few  years  from  an  insignificant 
fishing  village  to  a  place  of  no  mean  proportions.  Many- 
substantial  buildings,  in  the  European  style,  have  been 
erected,  and  the  town  is  rapidly  rising  into  importance  as 
a  commercial  centre.  The  roads  are  rough  and  badly 
kept,  in  many   places  merely  bridle-paths. 

The  British  and  Japanese  consulates  occupy  command- 
ing positions  and  are  creditable  to  their  nations. 

The  rice-cleaning  steam-mill,  an  American  enterprise,  is 
very  interesting  and  well  worth  a  visit.  Situated  on  the 
side  of  a  hill,  in  the  centre  of  the  settlement,  it  stands  as 
an  engineering  curiosity, —  Yankee  boilers  with  Japanese 
coal,  run  by  a  Chinese  engine,  to  clean  Korean  rice.  Here 
steam  has  displaced  the  ancient  man-power,  it  is  true,  but 
the  work  is  thoroughly  done,  and  the  owners  are  satisfied 
with  the   profits. 

On  a  commanding  hill  to  the  right  of  the  settlement, 
overlooking  the  native  town,  is  the  temple  which  com- 
memorates the  peaceful  landing  of  the  Japanese.  It  is 
surrounded  by  tea-houses  of  the  better  class,  and  is  near 
the  little  Japanese  cemetery.  With  the  waters  of  the 
Satee  and  Han  on  the  one  side,  Roze  Island  for  the  back- 
ground, and    amid    the  beautiful  plains,  valleys,   and    hills 


240      An   American   Cruiser  in   the   East 

of  fair  Korea,  no  more  delightful  situation  could  be 
imagined. 

The  temple  is  made  of  a  fine  grained  wood,  resembling 
our  cedar,  and  carved  in  places,  while  its  square  pillars, 
beams,  and  lintels  are  held  in  place  by  framing  that  is  sup- 
plemented by  massive  bars  and  angles  of  bronze,  which 
give  support  to  the  heavy  tiled  roof.  This  temple  has  no 
doors,  and  the  chief  feature  of  its  decorations  is  a  large 
painting  of  the  "  Landing  of  the  Japanese  and  their  recep- 
tion bv  the  Koreans."  This  fine  picture  shows  Japanese 
disembarking  from  their  vessel,  while  others  are  landing  on 
the  shores  of  Korea,  and  are  being  received  by  white-robed 
Koreans.  The  leader  of  the  Japanese  carries  a  copy  of 
the  treatv  between  the  two  nations. 

The  tea-houses  are  exquisitely  neat,  and  the  entertain- 
ment at  them  is  all  that  could  be  desired.  Beautiful  views 
may  be  enjoyed  from  the  verandahs,  as  well  as  from  the  neat 
little  cemetery  on  the  side  of  the  hill. 

There  are  two  hotels  in  the  settlement,  the  "Stewart 
House,"  which  is  conducted  in  the  semi-foreign  style  by  a 
Chinaman,  whose  name  the  house  bears,  and  the  Japanese 
hotel,  "  Dai  Butsu."  The  proprietors  are  accommodating, 
and  it  is  well  to  know  one  of  them  before  making  the  trip 
to  Seoul ;  either  one  will  make  all  arrangements  for  the 
journev  and  secure  accommodations  at  the  tea-house  in  the 
capital. 

Jeuchuan,  the  sub-prefectural  town,  is  situated  about  ten 
miles  distant  from  the  port  of  Chemulpo.  The  rising 
town  of  Mapu,  on  the  main  road  to  Seoul,  is  about 
seventy-five  miles  distant  from  Chemulpo,  or  about  thirty 
miles   from  Seoul. 

The  land  forming  the  Japanese  settlement  was  sold  by 
public  auction  in  1884,  and  land  sales  in  the  general  foreign 
settlement  took  place  in  November  of  the  same  year. 

Chemulpo  is   governed   by   a    Municipal    Council    com- 


A  Trip  to   Korea  241 

posed  of  the  foreign  consuls,  one  Korean  official,  and  three 
representatives  who  are  elected  by  the  land-holders.  Two 
foreign  and  one  Chinese  policemen,  in  European  uniforms, 
do  duty  in  the  settlement,  under  the  direction  of  the 
Council. 

The  settlement  has  been  neatly  laid  out  with  broad 
roads,  which,  in  rainy  seasons,  rival  for  mud  the  war-time 
roads  of  old  Virginia.  The  lots  are  all  improved  with 
substantial  buildings,  and  the  roads  are  planted  with  fine 
shade-trees. 

The  approaches  and  the  river  (Satee)  have  been  sur- 
veyed by  the  British  and  Japanese,  and  the  charts  of  late 
dates  are  entirely  reliable.  The  navigation  of  these  waters 
is  dangerous  from  the  many  sandbars,  washings  of  the 
rivers,  the  frequency  of  sudden  dense  •  fogs,  and  the 
absence  of  lights  and  beacons.  The  outer  anchorage  is 
accessible  to  the  largest  vessels,  but  the  holding  ground  is 
not  reliable,  and  vessels  are  liable  to  drag  their  anchors 
when  the  wind  is  strong  on  shore.  The  inner  harbor  is 
accessible  to  coasting  vessels  of  light  draught  as  far  up  as 
Mapu. 

An  overland  telegraph  from  China  to  this  port,  and  con- 
necting Seoul  and  Ping-yang,  is  in  operation. 

The  climate  of  Chemulpo  is  healthy  and  similar  to  that 
of  Baltimore. 

The  foreign  population  is  about  three  thousand,  of  whom 
about  twenty-five  hundred  are  Japanese.  The  native  pop- 
ulation is  estimated  at  about  three  thousand  people,  who 
live  in  mere  huts  built  on  the  lowland  marshes.  Their 
settlement  is  most  miserable  and  unsanitary,  and  altogether 
is  the  filthiest  place  in  which  I  have  ever  seen  human 
beings  crowded.  If  the  Japanese  succeed  in  teaching  these 
poor  people  cleanly  habits,  they  will  have  done  a  noble 
work    for   humanity. 

The  ascent  from  the  boat-landing   into   Chemulpo  is   by 

16 


242      An  American   Cruiser  in  the  East 

an  inclined  roadway  of  massive  granite  blocks,  for  about 
fifty  rods,  the  road  having  an  inclination  of  about  18°.  As 
the  tide  falls,  it  leaves  the  inclined  road  covered  with  mud 
and  slime,  which  frequently  makes  the  ascent  somewhat 
dangerous  and  at  all  times  filthy. 

Landing  here,  and  travelling  over  an  unkept  road  full  of 
hollows  and  hills,  with  no  approach  to  straightness,  does 
not  impress  one  very  favorably  with  Chemulpo.  A  tramp 
through  the  native  settlement  should  be  made  in  old  clothes 
for  the  filth,  stout  boots  for  the  mud,  a  cigar  for  the  smells, 
and  a  stout  stick  for  the  curs,  —  for  all  are  dangerous  ;  but 
the  life  one  sees  on  such  a  trip  is  very  interesting  and  well 
repays  for  the  risks  taken. 

The  roads  through  the  settlement  are  about  eight  feet  wide, 
broken  and  filthy.  They  are  lined  on  both  sides  by  mean 
little  huts,  one  story,  eight  by  ten  feet  in  height,  and  made  of 
any  old  materials  the  unfortunate  natives  are  able  to  gather. 
Some  are  made  from  old  dry-goods  boxes,  some  of  mud, 
and  a  very  few  of  sun-dried  bricks  plastered  over  with  mud, 
—  anything  that  will  give  shelter,  hold  the  mud  plastered 
over  them,  and  carry  the  straw-thatched  roof  intended  to 
keep  out  the  winter's  snows  and  the  summer's  rains.  The 
mteriors  of  these  cabins  are  as  filthy  and  unkept  as  the 
exteriors.  Dogs,  pigs,  and  fowls  share  the  "kang"  and 
house  with  the  family  ;  in  fact,  they  are  part  of  the  family. 
Except  for  the  flowing  white  robes,  there  are  no  evidences 
of  cleanness  in  the  place.  The  only  water  we  could  dis- 
cover was  in  the  little  tubs  containing  the  fish  for  sale,  and 
in  the  green  pools  along  the  roadsides.  Every  cabin  has 
a  compartment  called  the  "  kang,"  a  sort  of  room,  with 
earthen  floor,  under  which  a  fire  is  made.  Here  the 
members  of  the  family  resort  to  secure  warmth,  and  in  the 
evenings  mats  spread  upon  the  floor  form  the  family  bed. 

There  is  a  shop  of  some  description  in  front  of  every 
cabin,  for  the  sale  of  fish,  vegetables,  charcoal,  or  notions ; 


A  Trip  to   Korea  243 

or  it  may  be  a  cook-shop,  where  the  vilest  messes  that  ever 
ruined  the  stomach  of  a  human  being  are  concocted. 
Great  rolls  of  underdone  rice-flour,  swimming  in  a  pool 
of  boiling  fish-oil;  an  unnamable  mess  of  green  stuff,  pork, 
and  fish  made  into  stews,  and  chalky-looking  loaves  of  rice, 
with  shellfish  and  oysters.  These  shops  give  the  roads 
the  appearance  of  long,  filthy  bazaars,  and  the  snowy-robed 
Koreans  look  very  much  out  of  place,  as  they  crowd  through 
the  filth. 

These  cabins  have  yards  in  the  rear,  enclosed  by  wicker 
fences,  made  from  the  branches  of  bushes.  In  some  tew 
cases  attempts  are  made  to  do  truck-gardening  by  raising  a 
little  green  stuff  and  a  few  cabbages,  but  there  are  no  fruits 
or  flowers  ;  indeed,  I  doubt  if  the  Koreans  care  for  flowers. 
Many  of  these  yards  are  uncultivated,  and  contain  abomi- 
nations of  the  foulest  sort.  How  the  people  live  and  flourish 
amidst  such  surroundings  is  bevond  mv  comprehension. 

When  one  has  run  the  gantlet  of  the  dogs,  the  urchins, 
and  the  smells,  and  reaches  the  end  without  having  been 
bitten,  or  ditched,  or  having  contracted  cholera,  it  is  a 
relief  to  roam  over  the  hills  to  the  little  Japanese  cemetery, 
and  gather  the  beautiful  wild  flowers  that  may  be  had  for 
the  taking,  or  to  visit  one  of  the  tea-houses  on  the  hill 
bevond,  from  whence  we  frequently  watched  the  fishermen 
and  the  beach-combers  gathering  oysters,  crabs,  and  other 
gifts  ot  the  sea,  when  the  tide  was  out.  Sometimes  we 
took  pictures  of  the  quaint  scenes  about  us,  pitched  quoits 
upon  the  tea-house  green,  listened  to  the  mandolin-like 
strains  of  the  sweet  samisan,  or  were  entertained  with 
tales  of  daring  and  war  by  a  bold  Korean  warrior,  who, 
when  his  tales  were  finished,  politely  invited  himself  to 
partake  of  our  refreshments. 

The  common  people  are  innocent  and  inquisitive,  child- 
like and  bland,  with  no  intention  of  being  impertinent. 
They   will  smooth   down   your    clothes,   and   inquire   about 


244     ^^^  American   Cruiser  in  the  East 

the  materials  of  which  they  are  made;  ask  to  see  your 
watch,  and  require  an  explanation  of  its  mechanism  ;  and 
your  pockets  must  be  turned  out  and  the  contents  explained. 
I  gave  one  of  these  people  some  sour  drops  I  happened 
to  have  with  me ;  he  thought  them  a  species  of  amber 
beads.  When  I  explained  to  him  that  they  were  edible 
and  sweet,  he  ran  off,  but  soon  returned  with  a  crowd  of 
slipshod  females,  who  were  all  very  importunate  for  a  supply 
of  the  novel  sweets.  In  a  short  time  my  little  stock  was 
exhausted,  and  it  was  interesting  to  see  the  disappointment 
depicted  upon  their  countenances,  as  they  went  off  empty- 
handed.  I  afterwards  learned  that  these  ladies  looked 
upon  me  as  a  magic-man,  in  league  with  the  spirits. 

The  Executive,  the  Senior  Watch,  and  I  called  upon 
the  Governor  to  pay  our  respects.  We  were  met  at  the 
boat-landing,  the  foot  of  the  inclined  roadway,  by  a  China- 
man who  was  to  act  as  our  guide.  He  had  mustered 
three  dilapidated  sedan  chairs  for  our  use,  and  four  coolies 
to  act  as  bearers  for  each  chair.  We  were  in  full-dress 
uniform,  and  the  "conveyances"  seemed  ridiculously 
out  of  keeping  with  the  importance  of  the  occasion  and 
our  good  clothes  ;  but  the  visit  had  been  prearranged, 
and  there   was  nothing  to  do  but  go  ahead. 

The  chairs  were  made  of  bamboo  basket-work,  with 
long  poles  projecting  out  before  and  behind  on  each  side, 
for  the  bearers,  and  there  was  a  canopy  over  the  top  to 
protect  the  rider  from  the  weather. 

The  Senior  Watch  had  the  most  dilapidated  rig  of  the 
three  •,  and  as  his  bearers  were  as  inexperienced  as  the 
others,  he  seemed  in  imminent  danger  of  being  tumbled 
out  on  his  head.  The  best  chair  in  the  lot  fell  to  me; 
but  as  mv  bearers  had  not  practised  enough  to  give  a 
steady  swing  to  the  chair,  the  ride  was  very  uncomfortable. 
We  were  accompanied  all  the  way  by  a  rabble  of  idlers  who; 
thoroughly   understood   and   enjoved   our  discomfiture. 


A  Trip   to   Korea 


245 


After  having  been  borne  up  the  inclined  landing,  and 
through  the  foreign  settlement  and  skirting  one  edge  of  the 
native  village,  we  started  up  a  very  steep  hill,  which  put 
our  stability  to  the  test,  but  we  reached  the  palace  entrance 
in  safety,  and  were  thankful.  The  great  outer  doors  of 
the  palace  courtyard  were  opened  with  much  ceremony. 
Some  twenty  officials  came  out  to  meet  us,  and  there  was 
a  great  deal  of  bowing,  chin-chin-ing,  and  good  American 


^' 

i  W 

'  y^ 

A  Delegation  of  Koreans  visit  the  "Alert.' 


handshaking,  as  we  dismounted  from  our  rickety  old 
bamboo  cages.  As  soon  as  we  pulled  ourselves  together, 
as  it  were,  we  were  escorted  through  the  courtvard,  up 
a  flight  of  broad  steps,  and   into  the  audience-chamber. 

His  Excellency  and  suite,  in  their  official  robes,  were 
already  present  to  receive  us.  We  did  not  need  a  special 
presentation,  as  we  had  entertained  the  Governor  on  our 
vessel ;  and  he  reached  out  to  greet  us  —  more  in  American 
than  Korean   fashion  —  as  soon   as  we  entered  the- room. 


246      An  American   Cruiser   in   the   East 

After  more  greetings  and  handshakings,  we  were  all  seated, 
and  enjoyed  a  pleasant  chat  with  the  Governor  and  the 
other  Korean  gentlemen  present. 

Presently  cigars  were  served,  the  servant  cutting  off"  the 
ends  and  lighting  them  for  us.  Later,  wine  and  cake 
were  brought  in,  all  the  while  the  conversation  flowing  on 
in  pleasant  channels.  We  inquired  after  the  health  of  His 
Majesty  the  King,  and  expressed  the  hope  that  it  might  be 
a  thousand  years  before  he  would  be  called  upon  to  ascend 
on  hish  to  ride  the  celestial  dragon.  When  we  took  our 
leave,  we  were  escorted  to  our  chairs,  the  Governor  in- 
sisting upon  seeing  us  to  the  outer  gate,  and  again  shaking 
our  hands. 

The  audience-room,  in  which  we  had  been  received,  was 
about  thirtv  feet  long  and  twenty-five  broad,  with  a  very 
high  ceiling.  It  was  fitted  in  the  European  fashion  with 
a  handsome  velvet  carpet,  made  near  Boston.  Lace  cur- 
tains, with  heavy  silk  trimmings  at  the  windows,  a  hand- 
some mahogany  table,  placed  lengthwise  of  the  centre  of 
the  room,  and  chairs  to  match,  made  it  a  beautiful  audience- 
room. 

When  we  entered  the  room  the  Governor  stood  near 
its  centre.  He  was  clad  in  a  long  robe  of  dull  blue  silk, 
with  square  breast-and-back  pieces  embroidered  with  birds 
of  gay  plumage.  He  wore  the  ear-hat  of  the  Korean  noble, 
with  a  long  strand  of  heavy  amber  beads,  like  a  chin-strap, 
but  reaching  down  upon  his  breast,  and  his  shoes  were  of 
embroidered  silk  with   pointed  toes. 

When  we  reached  the  native  village  on  our  way  back  to 
the  landing,  our  attention  was  attracted  by  wailing  sounds 
from  some  one  apparentlv  in  deep  distress.  We  dismounted 
from  our  chairs  and  hunted  for  the  cause  of  these  outcries, 
which  we  soon  found  to  come  from  a  professional  mourner, 
who,  in  shrill,  high-pitched  tones  of  voice,  was  announcing 
the  virtues  of  the  deceased  person  Iving  before  her.      These- 


A  Trip  to   Korea 


247 


poor  professionals  come  from  the  lower  walks  of  life  and 
are  generally  objects  of  pity.  They  cultivate  the  funereal 
expression  and  the  loud,  shrill  voice  that  adds  horror  to  the 
otherwise  dismal  surroundings,  and  inspire  feelings  that 
make  the  "  Westerner  "  wish  he  were  as  far  away  as  pos- 


KoREAN  Mourning  Costume. 


sible.  Of  course,  these  professional  mourners,  like  stone- 
cutters with  epitaphs,  add  virtue  to  virtue  for  the  fee,  and 
deem  the  facts  of  the  case  to  be  no  concern  of  theirs. 

We  learned,  through  our  guide,  that  the  deceased  was  the 
father  of  a  numerous  family,  and  had  been  a  very  worthy 
blacksmith's  helper,  who  was  cut  off  in  the  flower  of  his 
manhood.      His  good  deeds  and  virtues,  as  narrated  by  the 


248      An   American   Cruiser   in   the   East 

mourner,  were  innumerable ;  and  as  soon  as  the  family 
ceased  to  pay  for  the  mourning,  the  funeral  would  take 
place. 

When  a  Korean  dies,  his  body  is  prepared  for  interment 
much  after  the  fashion  in  China.  Placed  in  a  strong,  heavy 
wooden  box  that  has  more  or  less  ornament  upon  it,  he  is 
professionally  mourned  for  as  long  as  family  and  friends 
can  afford  to  pay  for  that  service ;  and  when  all  is  ready, 
the  box  is  borne  to  the  grave  by  bearers,  preceded  by  the 
professional  mourners,  who  contort  and  howl  in  proportion 
to  their  pay.  The  relatives  and  friends  follow,  dressed  in 
brownish-white  robes,  the  males  wearing  immense,  coal- 
scuttle-like hats  of  the  same  color,  and  having  a  long  staff 
of  natural-colored  wood  in  hand.  When  the  grave  is 
reached,  the  box  is  lowered  into  the  prepared  place,  or  in 
some  cases  is  placed  upon  the  surface  of  the  ground,  and 
earth  is  piled  around  and  over  it.  The  term  of  mourning 
is  three  years.  After  this  sight  of  distress  and  misery  we 
made  another  start   for  the  vessel. 

When  I  had  removed  my  camera  from  under  the  seat 
of  my  chair  and  was  preparing  to  take  a  view  of  the  poor 
little  shops  in  the  native  village,  a  great  crowd,  but  a  good- 
natured  one,  gathered  about  us,  obstructing  the  view.  We 
soon  learned  that  the  people  were  all  anxious  to  appear  in 
the  picture,  —  not  that  they  might  ever  see  it  themselves, 
but  they  were  anxious  to  be  identified   with   their  village. 

What  hovels  and  huts  for  a  people  to  be  proud  of,  and 
with  which  to  wish  to  be  identified  !  The  contrast  is  very 
great  between  these  miserable  Korean  cabins,  and  huts  in 
the  swamps,  and  the  neat,  artistic  peasant  homes  of  the 
Japanese   upon   the  hillsides. 

The  Chemulpo  Club's  home  is  situated  in  the  foreign 
settlement.  It  is  neatlv  fitted  with  billiard,  reading,  refresh- 
ment, and  retiring  rooms,  with  a  bowling  alley  in  its  neigh- 
borhood.     Its    membership    is    cosmopolitan.      Americans. 


A  Trip  to   Korea  249 

Britons,    and  Japanese    fraternize    in   its    hospitable    rooms 
and  lounge  away  an   hour  or  two  each  day. 

The  currency  of  the  country  is  in  a  wretched  condition, 
and  native  money  is  scarce.  Chinese  "  cash  "  is  used  for 
all  small  transactions.  It  was  usual  to  see  shopping  parties 
followed  about  from  shop  to  shop  by  a  stalwart  coolie  bear- 
ing a  huge  bundle  of  stringed  cash  upon  his  shoulders  ;  and 
when  it  is  remembered  that  the  value  of  the  cash  is  from 
1,000  to  1,300  to  the  Japanese  or  the  Mexican  dollar 
(depending  upon  the  rate  of  exchange),  one  can  understand 
the  great  inconvenience  of  doing  business. 

The  Korean  coolie,  stalwart  as  he  is,  is  a  study  in  his 
way.  With  a  wooden  frame  which  much  resembles  the 
framework  of  the  under  side  of  a  common  wheelbarrow 
strapped  upon  his  back,  he  is  prepared  to  bear  great  loads 
in  the  shape  of  stones,  goods,  or  machinery.  All  he  needs 
is  a  firm  place  to  back  against,  to  steady  his  great  burden, 
and  then  he  marches  off  with  a  firm  tread  and  steady 
gait.  They  are  great  meat-eaters,  and  devour  every  part 
of  the  animal.  Their  wages  are  small,  and  they  are  happy 
if  they  can  secure  fish  and  rice  enough  to  satisfy  their 
hunger.  When  the  tide  is  out  they  resort  to  the  beach  in 
great  numbers,  and  supplement  their  scanty  store  of  food 
with   the  oysters,  crabs,  or  fish   found  there. 

Cook-shops  and  booths,  the  latter  formed  by  four  bare 
poles  supporting  an  old  straw  matting  for  awning,  are 
scattered  about  the  roadsides,  in  the  business  locality 
where  these  poor  toilers  can  procure  food,  and  mav  rest 
in   the  shade  while  eating   it. 

In  all  large  business  houses,  the  Japanese  are  the  lead- 
ing men,  while  the  Koreans  may  be  emploved  as  the  com- 
mon laborers. 

The  Korean  mail  service  is  conducted  in  the  ports  by 
Japanese,  but  in  the  Interior  of  the  country  the  work  is  done 
bv  Koreans. 


250      An   American   Cruiser   in   the   East 

Chemulpo  was  opened  to  foreign  trade  in  1883.  ^^^ 
value  of  the  imports  from  foreign  countries  is  about 
$3,500,000,  and  the  exports  amount  to  about  $1,500,000, 
the  difference  being  paid  in  gold.  The  total  trade  of  the 
port  is  about  $6,000,000. 


CHAPTER    XIV 


SEOUL,     THE     CAPITAL    OF     KOREA 


THE  distance  from  Chemulpo  to  Seoul  is  about  thirty- 
five  miles,  and  the  journey  can  be  made  on  horse- 
back, in  sedan  chairs,  or  in  one  of  the  two  little  steamers 
which  plv  on  the  Han  Ri\'er,  whenever  the  tide  serves  and 
thev  are  not  aground  ;  but  whichever  route  is  taken,  there 
are  always  regrets  that  the  other  was  not  chosen.  If  one 
has  resolved  to  rough  it,  for  the  sake  of  the  beautiful 
scenerv  and  seeing  Seoul,  either  route  will  amuse ;  but  if 
comfort  is  anticipated,  the  journey  will  be  disappointing. 

Both  by  the  land  and  the  water  route,  the  scenery  is 
beautiful  and  the  eve  never  tires,  for  new  and  strange 
things    of   beauty  and    of    interest    are    always    present   to 


252      An   American   Cruiser   in   the   East 

awaken  emotions  of  pleasure  and  surprise.  The  roads 
are  rough  and  uncared  for,  —  mere  bridle-paths,  —  and 
if  travelling  by  land  you  will  likely  sigh  for  one  of  the 
little  steamers.  If  you  have  taken  passage  in  one  of  these, 
you  will  find  it  untidy  in  its  fittings,  unreliable  in  its  move- 
ments, and  as  far  from  comfortable  as  can  be  imagined, 
and  you  wish  for  the  chair  or  horse,  with  all  the  jolting 
and  dust. 

There  are  no  hotels  in  Seoul,  and  if  you  are  not  fortu- 
nate enough  to  be  a  guest  of  some  resident  you  will  have 
to  seek  accommodations  in  the  Japanese  tea-house,  in 
which  case  you  should  be  provided  with  bed-clothing  and 
provisions  ;  or  if  one  of  the  little  steamers  happens  to  be 
at  the  landing,  you  can  travel  the  three  miles  to  the  Han 
River,  and  make  your  headquarters  on  board  for  the  night. 
In  either  case,  you  will  have  to  superintend  the  preparation 
of  your  own  fare,  or  be  prepared  for  Japanese  or  Korean 
fare,  which   is   not  entirelv  to  the  American  taste. 

Having  arrived  at  Seoul,  the  capital  city  of  Korea 
(native  name,  Han-Yan,  meaning  "  Fortress  on  the  Han  "), 
you  find  it  situated  in  a  beautiful  valley,  about  three  miles 
north  of  the  Han  River,  and  thirty-five  miles  from  its 
mouth,  almost  in  the  centre  of  the  province  of  Kuing-kei. 
The  valley  extends  in  a  northeast  and  southwest  direc- 
tion, and  the  citv  takes  the  same  general  trend.  There 
are  eight  gates  in  the  city  walls,  arranged  after  the  fashion 
of  the  gates  of  Peking.  About  the  year  400  b.  c,  Ni- 
Taijo,  the  founder  of  the  present  dynasty,  selected  the  site 
for  a  fortified  camp,  which  afterwards  developed  into  the 
present  city.  The  city  is  surrounded  by  stone  walls  which 
average  about  eighteen  feet  in  height,  and  the  water- 
courses are  spanned  by  arched  stone  bridges.  The  houses 
are  about  eight  feet  high,  built  of  stone,  or  of  mud-covered 
bamboo  frames,  and  roofed  with  tiles  or  thatched  with 
straw.      Internally  they   may  be  considered   clean,  for  the- 


Seoul,  the   Capital   of  Korea  253 

Koreans  have  the  Japanese  fashion  of  removing  their  shoes 
before  entering  a  house. 

The  citv  is  di\  ided  into  four  quarters  bv  the  intersection 
of  two  main  streets.  The  central  point  has  been  marked 
bv  the  erection  ot  a  large  tower  which  contains  an  old 
Korean  bell,  seven  feet  high.  Se\eral  other  important 
streets  radiate  from  the  tower,  and  thev  are  all  called 
"  Bell-roads."      Everv   night   at   half-past   eight  the  "  cur- 


Gateway  to  Seoul. 

few  "  is  sounded  bv  the  great  bell,  when  all  men  must 
retire  from  the  streets,  which  are  given  over  to  the  use  of 
the  women  until  half-past  one  in  the  morning,  and  during 
that  time  the  women  visit  and  receive  visits  from  their 
female  friends.  While  there  are  no  men  on  the  streets, 
the  women  go  with  uncovered  faces,  wearing  the  colored 
"war"   coat  about  the  shoulders,  shawl  fashion. 

The  King's  palaces  are  situated  in   the  northern  part  of 
the    city,  and   are  surrounded  by  about  one  thousand  acres. 


254      ^^^   American   Cruiser  in   the   East 

of  land,  enclosed  by  heavy  stone  walls,  about  sixteen  feet 
high,  and  pierced  with  several  gates.  A  guard  of  soldiers 
is  stationed  at  these  gates  at  all  times,  and  there  are  special 
gates  for  people  of  different  ranks. 

An  audience  having  been  arranged,  the  person  is  con- 
ducted through  the  gate  corresponding  to  his  rank,  then 
through  roads  and  corridors,  —  some  handsome,  others 
mean,  —  until  a  large  room,  fitted  in  the  American  style, 
has  been  reached.  Here  he  lunches  and  rests  until  the 
time  for  the  audience.  He  is  next  conducted  across  a  hand- 
some court  and  up  a  flight  of  stone  steps,  which  are  guarded 
by  massive  stone  dogs,  carved  by  Korean  artists.  He  finds 
himself  in  a  large,  open  hall,  with  a  massive  tiled  roof,  sup- 
ported by  numerous  scarlet  columns.  The  floor  is  of  hand- 
some, inlaid  woods.  A  beautiful  Korean  screen  stands  at 
the  opposite  side  of  the  room  where  the  King  receives. 

When  the  King  grants  an  audience,  he  receives  in  a 
scarlet  robe,  embroidered  with  gold  medallions  on  the 
breast  and  back,  and  on  each  shoulder.  He  wears  a  heavy 
jewelled  belt  about  his  waist,  and  a  blue,  wingless  hat  upon 
his  head.  No  one  can  pass  in  front  of  him,  and  servants  hold 
up  his  arms  as  he  moves  about.  All  must  prostrate  them- 
selves in  his  presence.  He  begins  his  day  at  five  o'clock  in 
the  afternoon,  and  retires  at  about  eight  in  the  morning. 

Little  two-story  storehouses  have  been  constructed, 
about  the  "  Bell  roads,"  in  such  fashion  that  the  shops 
under  them  open  into  courtyards  instead  of  into  the 
streets.  Whenever  the  King  makes  a  "progress,"  these 
little  houses  are  torn  away.  This  pageant  is  a  ceremony 
of  very  unusual  occurrence,  and  its  details  are  said  to  have 
been  unchanged  for  hundreds  of  years.  Little  wooden 
shanties,  that  serve  as  workshops  and  for  business  pur- 
poses, have  been  erected  in  front  of  almost  every  house, 
not  only  reducing  the  width  of  the  streets,  but  giving  them 
a   squalid   appearance. 


Seoul,   the   Capital   of  Korea  255 

.  The  city  is  very  dirty,  piles  of  lilth  being  allowed  to 
accumulate ;  and  the  open  ditches,  on  each  side  of  the 
roads,   are   often   choked   up  with   refuse. 

The  shops  are  mean,  and  it  is  difficult  to  find  fancy 
articles  of  Korean  make.  The  best  way  to  obtain  curiosi- 
ties is  to  let  your  wants  be  known  as  soon  after  your 
arrival    as   possible,  name  a  place  and  date  where  you  can 


Gateway  to  the  King's  Palace,  Seoul,  Korea. 


be  seen,  and  you  will  be  waited  upon  by  merchants  who 
deal  in  such  wares.  Fans,  antique  metal-work,  Korean 
coins  and  mats  can  be  obtained  in  this  way.  The  prices 
will  be  high,  as  the  articles  are  rare  and  the  owners  not 
anxious   to  part  with  them. 

One  of  the  sights  outside  of  the  city  gate  is  the  exer- 
cise of  the  Royal  troops.  They  are  uniformed  in  blue 
coats,   plum-colored    trousers,   black    fur    hats   with   bright 


256      All  American   Cruiser  in   the  East 

yellow  tassels,  and  their  feet  are  encased  in  half-high  boots. 
They  are  armed  with  modern  rifles,  and  are  a  stalwart, 
fine-looking  body  of  men.  Their  movements  are  credit- 
able, and  they  have  the  free,  easy  carriage  of  the  volunteer 
rather  than  the  stiffness  of  the  regular.  They  are  trained 
by  two  Americans  who  served  in  the  Ci\'il  War  and  now 
hold  commissions  under  the  Korean  government. 

The  courage  and  endurance  of  the  Koreans  has  often 
been  tested,  and  there  is  no  doubt  that  they  will  give 
a  good  account  of  themselves  in  case  of  need;  but  it 
must  be  remembered  that  the  whole  army  numbers  only 
twenty-five  hundred  men. 

Street  life  in  Seoul  is  picturesque  and  novel,  and  no  city 
in  the  world  equals  it  for  quaintness.  The  gateways  in 
the  city  wall,  the  palace  gates,  and  the  marble  pagoda  are 
worth  seeing  as  the  work  of  this  interesting  people.  Out- 
side the  city  walls,  to  the  northwest,  the  immense  bowlder 
image  of  Buddha  stands  boldly  forth  in  its  granite  grandeur, 
requiring  some  play  of  the  imagination  to  decide  whether 
it  be  the  "  Light  of  Asia  "  or  some  other  man.  But  it  is 
a  work  of  nature  rather  than  of  art. 

Passing  out  of  the  northeast  gate  and  through  a  miserable- 
looking  country,  we  reach  the  village  of  the  Buddhist 
priests,  where  these  gentry  luxuriate  in  greater  comfort 
than  the  average  Korean,  Through  the  southwest  gate 
we  are  conducted  to  the  temple  and  tomb  of  Queen  Chung. 
The  temple  is  filled  with  soiled  red  hangings,  has  a  shrine 
of  Buddha  incarnated,  and  the  whole  structure  is  noisome 
with   foul  odors. 

The  pleasure-grounds,  surrounding  the  palaces,  cover  an 
area  of  a  thousand  acres,  and  are  very  interesting.  They 
extend  to  the  foot  of  the  mountains,  where  some  magnifi- 
cent views  may  be  had.  There  are  no  modes  of  convey- 
ance except  sedan  chairs,  and  a  reliable  guide  is  necessary,, 
both  to  point  out  the  way  and  to  act  as  interpreter. 


PiKG-YANG,  Korea. 


CHAPTER    XV 


PING-YANG,     KOREA 


WE  left  Chemulpo  early  in  the  afternoon  of  May 
20,  reaching  Ping-yang  Inlet  late  on  the  2 id. 
During  the  daylight  the  weather  v/as  warm  and  balmv, 
not  unlike  May-days  at  home;  but  the  nights  were  chilly, 
and  our  progress  was  slow,  owing  to  the  dangerous  coast 
and  the  fogs  which  prevailed.  The  steam-whistle  made  the 
days  and  nights  dreary  by  incessant  "  tootings,"  which  were 
necessary  to  give  warning  of  our  position  and  movements  ; 
and  it  was  a  relief  to  our  strained-eyed  lookouts  when  we 
dropped  anchor  in  forty  fathoms  of  water,  and  "  piped  all 
hands  to  rest." 


26o      An  American   Cruiser  in   the  East 

Through  Hght  rifts  in  the  fog  we  had  occasional 
glimpses  of  the  coast  and  the  great  barren  rocks,  jutting 
up  from  the  sea,  —  rocks  without  a  vestige  of  verdure 
upon  them ;  resting-places  for  the  gulls  and  sea-spawn, 
and  breakers  upon  which  the  unwary  mariner  might  be 
dashed  to  destruction.  No  lights,  no  marks,  nothing  to 
guide  or  warn  in  the  fog  or  in  the  black  storm  at  night 
when  the  howling  winds  and  boiling  sea,  aided  by  the 
treacherous  currents,  might  drive  the  ship  on  and  on 
until  the  tale  would  be  "  missing."  The  memory  of  that 
region  makes  one  shudder,  and  corroborates  the  truth  of 
the  stories  that  the  Koreans  have  rendered  the  ap- 
proaches to  their  country  as  desolate  and  unattractive  as 
possible. 

How  different  is  the  vicinity  of  Ping-yang  Inlet  !  The 
scenery  along  its  shores  and  up  the  rivers  is  varied  and 
beautiful.  For  background,  dark  and  gloomy  hills,  which 
thrust  their  peaks  into  the  clouds,  brave  the  anger  of  the 
storm,  or  receive  the  first  kiss  from  the  rising  sun,  while 
from  their  sides  bright  valleys  of  waving  green  extend 
down  to  the  sea.  Here  and  there  a  patch  of  woods,  a 
cascade,  or  falls  of  silvery  water  which  leap  over  or 
trickle  down  the  massy  sides  of  great  rocky  hills,  where 
may  be  hidden  gold  or  silver  or  iron  or  coal, — awaiting 
the  miner's  touch,  —  that  may  yet  ransom  Korea,  and 
make  her  one  of  the  wealthy  nations  of  the  East ;  villages 
of  huts  in  the  vallevs,  or  near  the  beach,  where  groups 
of  curious  natives  with  flowing  white  robes  and  sombre 
hats  discuss  the  arrival  as  they  add  variety  to  the  already 
beautiful   scenery. 

The  next  morning  we  raised  our  anchor  and  stood  close 
in  to  the  land,  hunting  for  Chelto,  on  the  Yalu  River,  which 
we  found  late  in  the  afternoon,  and  dropped  our  anchor 
just  in  time  to  get  the  full  force  of  a  very  homelike 
thunder-and-rain   storm.      From   an    inky   blackness   in   the 


Ping-yang,    Korea  261 

heavens,  lightning  began  to  play  its  pranks.  Soon  the 
wind  came  whistling  and  howling,  while  the  flashes  of 
lightning  came  nearer  and  nearer,  and  sent  great  forked 
streaks  among  the  hills  and  down  the  valleys,  while  the  thun- 
der boomed,  and  echoed  from  hill  to  hill.  The  rain  poured 
down  in  torrents,  and  the  clouds  seemed  to  have  opened 
their  flood-gates.  In  this  war  of  the  elements,  each  seemed 
to  try  to  outdo  the  other,  and  all  were  rivalled  bv  the  mad 
rush  of  the  rivers,  which  unite  here  and  form  the  Ping- 
yang  Inlet. 

After  awhile,  the  clouds  drifted  away,  and  blue  patches 
began  to  appear  in  the  heavens,  and  soon  we  had  a  clear 
sky  and  twinkling  stars  where  the  angry  elements  had 
warred.  Here  and  there  along  the  shore,  or  in  the  dingv 
huts,  lights  sent  their  starlike  brightness  from  the  homes  of 
the  natives,  ana  no  sounds  disturbed  the  peace  of  the  "  Land 
of  the  Morning  Calm"  except  the  mighty  roar  of  the 
rivers,  the  surf  upon  the  beach,  and  our  bugle's  "  call  to 
rest."  We  had  finished  our  good-night  cigars,  after  watch- 
ing the  faint  flashes  from  receding  clouds,  as  the  lightning, 
loath  to  leave,  shot  forth  from  the  dim  distance  like  a  sullen 
army   in  retreat. 

In  the  morning  we  found  our  vessel  just  within  the 
mouth  of  the  Yalu  (one  of  the  three  rivers  which  form 
the  Ping-yang  Inlet),  opposite  the  town,  and  just  inside  the 
lines  of  native  breastworks  that  mark  the  fortifications. 
The  river  was  swift-running  and  muddy,  sweeping  like  mad 
through  a  very  fairv-land.  The  sun  shone  in  splendor, 
and  lighted  up  beautiful  emerald  hills,  or,  by  contrasting 
shadows,  emphasized  valleys  whose  beauties  allure  to  rest ; 
or  penetrated  the  dark  recesses  of  mysterious  groves,  —  on 
the  very  mountain-tops,  —  where  holv  men,  like  Moses, 
commune  with  God,  and  still  offer  blood  and  buint  offer- 
ings for  the   sins  of  the   people. 

Everv  time  we  visited  the  shore  the  tide  happened   to  be 


262      An  American   Cruiser  in  the  East 

low,  and  we  found  ourselves  more  than  twenty  feet  below 
the  usual  water-level  of  the  little  town,  and  our  boat  unable 
to  reach  land.  After  being  carried  over  the  muddy  bottom 
for  some  two  hundred  feet  upon  the  shoulders  of  two  lusty 
Koreans,  we  were  landed  at  the  foot  of  the  principal  street 
("  road  ")  of  Chelto. 

Chelto  is  situated  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Yalu  River, 
just  above  the  intersection  of  the  rivers.  It  contains  about 
fifty  houses,  those  of  the  better  classes  being  built  of  rough 
stones  plastered  over  with  mud,  their  thatched  roofs  being 
of  rice-straw.  The  poorer  houses  are  made  of  wooden 
poles,  stuck  into  the  ground  and  laced  together  with  basket- 
work.  These  are  also  plastered  over  with  mud,  and  have 
thatched  roofs.  Formerlv,  the  average  Korean  family  was 
contented  with  a  large  hole  in  the  ground,  which  was 
roofed  over  with  straw  thatching,  leaving  an  opening  in  the 
roof  for  ingress  and  egress.  These  were  found  to  afford 
very  little  protection  against  raids  of  the  tiger,  an  animal 
which  abounds  in  these  northern  parts.  Frequently,  after 
the  visits  of  these  creatures,  whole  families  were  found  to 
have  suffered,  and  in  many  cases  funerals  were  the  order 
of  the  day,  so  that  to  the  present  time  the  inventor  of 
houses  is  considered  a  public  benefactor,  and  a  prayer  is 
offered   for   him. 

Beneath  each  house  is  a  large  stone  under  which  a  small 
fire  is  kept  smouldering,  while  above  it  mats  are  placed,  to 
be  used  as  the  family  bed.  Mattresses  and  heavy  bed-cover- 
ing are  not  required,  although  the  thermometer  often  regis- 
ters zero,  and  snow  and  ice  are  well  known  throughout  the 
winter. 

There  are  no  shops  in  the  place,  it  being  a  town  of  agri- 
culturists. The  residence  of  the  governor  of  the  province 
is  in  the  vicinity.  The  men  are  stalwart,  with  well-formed 
heads,  handsome  countenances,  just  a  tinge  of  copper  in 
their  well-turned,  regular  features,  black  hair  and  eyes,  and' 


Ping-yang,   Korea 


263 


graceful,  free-and-easy  carriage.  They  marry  quite  young, 
and  the  women  soon  get  a  worn,  haggard  look,  which  they 
usually  retain  until  about  their  fortieth  year  of  age,  when 
they  grow  stout.  Except  tor  the  "  sleepy  eye,"  they  are  a 
handsomer  race  of  people  than  cither  the  Japanese  or  the 
Chinese. 


Fortifications  and  Governor's  House,  Ping-yang  Inlet,  Korea. 


They  dress  in  flowing  white  robes  which  reach  to  the 
shoe-tops.  Their  loose  white  trousers  are  tied  in  at  the 
ankles,  and  great  mufflers  of  quilted  cotton  are  bound  about 
their  feet,  which  are  thrust  into  Chinese  dress-shoes.  The 
usual  head-covering  for  an  ordinary  married  man  is  the 
stiff",  straight-rimmed  hat  of  braided  black  horsehair,  which 
is  sometimes  made  of  finely  split  bamboo  which  has  been 
colored  black.  The  usual  dress  of  an  unmarried  man  is 
the  same,  except  that  he  does  not  wear  any  head-coverino;, 
and  his  hair  is  parted  in  the  middle  and  made  into  a  broad 
plait,  which   hangs  down  his  back.      When  in  mourning. 


264      An   American    Cruiser   in   the   East 

the  garb  is  of  the  same  fashion,  but  is  made  of  a  white- 
brown  or  unbleached  goods,  with  "  coal-scuttle  "  helmet 
of  the  same  color  as  the  clothing.  The  hat  covers  the 
head,  and  reaches  down  to  the  shoulders,  the  intention 
being  to  cover  the  face  as  much  as  possible.  The  mourner 
must  also  carry  a  stafF  of  natural-colored  wood,  which 
equals  the  individual   in   height. 

The  costume  of  the  women  is  similar  to  that  worn  by 
the  unmarried  men,  except  that  a  girdle  is  worn  about  the 
body,  which  gives  the  costume  the  appearance  of  bodice 
and  skirt.  The  women  are  small  in  stature,  of  good  form, 
and  are  fair  to  look  upon.  While  the  sexes  are  separated 
at  an  early  age,  —  about  six  years,  —  the  women  have  all 
that  can  be  called  a  domestic  life  in  Korea.  Marriages  are 
arranged  by  professional  "go-betweens."  Ordinarily,  the 
woman  has  no  voice  in  the  selection  of  a  husband,  and 
knows  nothing  of  him  until  all  the  arrangements  have  been 
made,  and  the  wife-to-be  finds  herself  in  the  presence  of 
her  future  husband.  After  the  briefest  ceremony,  —  a  feast 
to  friends,  in  whose  presence  they  pledge  each  other  in 
Korean  wine,  —  the  man  seizes  and  carries  off  his  new- 
made  wife.  These  marriages  seem  to  be  as  happy  as  those 
made  in  other  lands. 

Korean  ladies  have  been  famous  at  the  Eastern  courts  for 
their  grace,  their  wit,  and  their  beauty.  As  far  back  as 
the  year  1200,  they  were  celebrated  at  the  court  of  the 
Emperor  of  China,  and  the  Pope's  legate  to  that  court 
reported  on  the  "wondrous  beauty  of  a  Korean  ladv." 
Much  has  been  written  about  the  condition  of  these  women  ; 
but  the  facts  are,  that  they  are  well  satisfied,  suited  to  their 
surroundings  and  the  condition  of  their  country,  and  are 
in  the  full  enjoyment  of  all  the  rights  they  know  or  want. 
When  the  conditions  of  the  country  change,  the  women 
may  change  with  them,  and  they  will  get  their  full  share  of 
the  benefits. 


Pino;-yanc^,    Korea 


265 


The  Korean  is  a  man  in  the  full  sense  of  the  word  ;  and 
because  his  wife  is  a  woman,  she  knows  how  to  get  what 
she  wants,  and  — 

"  When  she  will,  she  will,  and  what  is  more  of  it  ; 
When  she  won't,  she  won't,  and  that  is  all  of  it." 


A  Koi;i;a.n  Vuu.xg  Woman. 


The  dress  of  the  nobilitv  is  of  the  same  fashion  as  that 
of  the  common  people,  but  the  materials,  colors,  and  orna- 
ments are  different,  and  vary  with  the  rank.  The  hat  is 
made  of  fine,  braided  black  horsehairs,  with   round   crown, 


266      An   American   Cruiser   in   the   East 


without  a  rim,  and  is  held  in  place  on  the  head  by  ribbons, 
which  tie  under  the  chin.  The  sleeves  of  the  robe  are 
o-enerally  of  a  pale  blue  or  green  color,  cut  long  and  flowing. 


1  jT  ^^ 


"mls-A 


A  Korean  House,  Ping-yang  Inlet. 


From  the  sides  of  the  hat,  hanging  down  to  the  shoulders, 
long  strands  of  amber  beads  are  worn  ;  while  on  the  breast 
and  back  are  beautifully  embroidered  pieces  of  silk,  worked 
in  natural  colors.  These  complete  the  costume  of  the 
Korean  of  very  high  degree,  and  no  swell  of  Europe  feels 
his  imp)ortance  more  than  does  this  scion  of  "  Choson." 
They  do  not  have  much  furniture  or  many  ornaments  about 
their  houses.  Meals  are  taken,  friends  are  received,  and 
business   is  transacted   in   a  squatting  position. 

At  the  foot  of  one  of  the  streets,  and  near  the  water's 
edge,  is  an  immense  granary,  where  the  rice  is  stored  until 
the  coming  of  some  Japanese  agent,  who  goes  through  the 
country  and  buys  up  the  produce,  particularly  the  rice.  In 
nearly  all  my  visits  to  the  shore  I  had  my  camera  with  me,. 


Ping-yang,   Korea 


267 


as  it  was  my  intention  to  take  a  picture  in  this  interesting 
country  at  every  favorable  opportunity.  I  was  here  sur- 
rounded by  a  mob  of  curious  men  who  persisted  in  crowd- 
ing between  the  camera  and  the  house  I  was  desirous  of 
picturing.  I  presented  each  of  the  gentlemen  with  a  cigar, 
whereupon  they  all  squatted  down  in  a  line  on  their  heels, 
giving  me  the  opportunity  to  focus  over  their  heads  and  get 
the  house,  with  the  women,  babies,  household  utensils,  and 
the  furnace  in  the  yard, —  a  typical  Korean  house. 

A  short  distance  away,  I  took  a  picture  of  the  long  line 
of  fortifications  which  defend  the  river  approaches.  These 
are  made  of  rough  stones  cemented  together,  breast  high, 
about    one    yard  thick,    and    pierced  with  loopholes    about 

1 


'^[_^f^,-^^       ^^      ? 


Fortifications. 

every  five  feet.  They  extend  around  the  junction  of  the 
rivers,  and  up  over  the  hills.  They  were  made  in  the  days 
of  bows  and  arrows,  and  would  not  resist  the  prtjjectiles  of 
modern  ordnance  unless  well  reinforced  by  earthworks, 
when   they  could   be  made  almost    impregnable.      Little  did 


268      An   American   Cruiser   in   the   East 

I  think,  when  joking  with  these  good-natured  people  while 
taking  this  picture,  that  in  a  few  months  one  of  the  most 
important  battles  of  m.odern  times  would  be  fought  over 
these  walls,  between  the  Japanese  and  the  Chinese,  —  a 
battle  whose  results   no   man  can   foresee. 

On  our  way  back  to  the  town  we  saw  many  mammoth 
oxen  grazing  upon  the  fields,  —  oxen  that  would  put  the 
pygmies  often  seen  at  our  county  fairs  to  the  blush;  while 
the  native  pony,  "a  natty  little  rig,"  bore  his  master  canter- 
ing through  the  half-sleepv  streets.  The  lonely  merchant, 
half  miller,  half  merchant,  bartered  his  rice  for  a  vessel  ot 
rich  cream,  while  the  good  housewife  wove  cotton  from 
her  thrifty   spinnings. 

These  people  live  very  close  to  nature  ;  and  while  the  bet- 
ter classes  are  neat,  clean,  and  as  tidy  as  any  people  that  1 
have  ever  seen,  the  poorer  classes  detest  soap  and  water. 
A  friend  of  mine  was  on  the  beach  at  Roze  Island  with  his 
men,  for  target  practice,  when  some  half-grown  urchins, 
inspired  by  curiosity,  and  eager  to  gather  up  the  empty 
brass  cartridge  shells,  came  over  from  the  fishing  village 
near  by.  While  thev  were  idling  around,  some  of  our  men 
tried  to  persuade  them  to  go  in  bathing,  but  they  could  not 
be  prevailed  upon  to  do  so  until  some  small  change  was 
offered  as  a  reward.  This  temptation  was  great,  and  they 
soon  divested  themselves  of  their  scanty  rags,  and  waded 
into  the  water,  but  it  was  only  work  for  the  money  ;  there 
was  no  boyish  fun  or  sport,  and  as  soon  as  possible  they 
were  out  of  it  and  on  their  way  home,  rejoicing  over  the 
reward. 

Korea  has  produced  some  very  learned  men,  great  artists, 
and  workers  in  porcelain,  but  these  have  been  among  per- 
sons in  the  higher  walks  of  life,  who  were  self-educated. 
The  common  people  have  little  or  no  opportunity  to  ac- 
quire an  education.  Until  very  recently,  education  for  the 
best   has   been  confined  to  reading  and   writing  their  own 


Ping-yang,   Korea  269 

language,  the  works  of  Confucius,  and  other  works  of 
ancient  China.  Mathematics,  even  their  own  history,  and 
the  sciences,  that  have  done  so  much  towards  the  advance- 
ment and  upbuilding  of  other  nations,  are  almost  unknown 
to  them.  The  Buddhist  priests  have  been  their  guides  and 
instructors.  The  sons  of  nobles  are  usually  sent  to  Peking 
to  study  Chinese  lore. 

Koreans  have  no  domestic  life,  and  are  great  tramps 
and  gossips.  Singly,  in  couples,  and  in  little  groups,  both 
by  day  and  by  night,  the  white-robed  gentry  may  be  seen 
roaming  over  hill  and  plain,  on  their  wav  to  visit  some 
celebrated  shrine,  a  bit  of  beautiful  scenery,  or  a  sacred 
spot,  stopping  at  almost  every  hut  on  the  way  to  exchange 
the  news  and  gossip.  The  people  are  good-natured  and 
hospitable,  and  these  tramps  are  always  welcome  to  share 
the  rice  and  meat,  and  doubly  welcome  when  a  particularly 
good  story  is  told,  or  a  bit  of  spicy  gossip  is  rehearsed. 
The  sexes  are  separated,  and  have  separate  apartments 
from  an  early  age;  and  it  is  considered  a  great  breach  of 
etiquette   for  the  face  of  a  woman  to  be  seen   by  a  man. 

Koreans  have  a  great  appreciation  and  love  for  the 
beautiful  in  nature.  It  is  common  to  see  great  monu- 
mental stones  that  have  been  erected  by  men  of  means  to 
commemorate  the  pleasure  they  have  derived  from  the 
contemplation  of  a  landscape,  waterfall,  or  some  beautiful 
scenery. 

Their  religion  is  founded  upon  the  ancient  Confucian 
of  China.  Their  ancestors  are  the  chief  objects  of  wor- 
ship, but  they  also  worship  heaven,  and  believe  in  spirits. 
They  think  that  the  air  and  sea  are  peopled  with  spirits, 
good  and  evil,  and  believe  that  they  can  hold  communion 
with  them  at  all  times.  The  fifth,  fifteenth,  and  twenty- 
fifth  of  every  month  are  considered  unlucky  days,  upon 
which  they  will   not  begin  any  venture. 

The  Koreans  seem  to  have  greater  respect  for  the  Japa- 


2/0 


An   American   Cruiser  in   the   East 


nese  than  for  any  other  people.  Their  relations  have  been 
close,  as  the  Japanese  have  overrun  the  country  three  or 
four    times.       They   are    better    acquainted    with    Eastern 


KOKEAN   Bl'ddhist  Priests. 


policy  and  diplomacy  than  any  other  nation,  and  are  frank 
and  honest  in  their  dealings.  The  only  portions  of  land 
that  are  of  any  great  value  are  along  the  roads  upon  which 
the  neat  little  Japanese  houses,  tea-houses,  and  the  temple 
are  built,  where  the  little  "  musiime  "  pats   her  clogs  as  she 


Ping-yang,    Korea  271 

waddles  along,  and  where  the  Chesi  makes  night  hideous 
with  yells  when  stuffed  with  too  much  rice. 

The  government  of  Korea  has  a  dim  appreciation  of  the 
tendency  of  these  times  towards  scientific  progress  and  a 
higher  civilization  ;  but  a  very  powerful  anti-foreign  party, 
with  ramifications  all  over  the  kingdom,  is  bent  upon  plac- 
ing all  obstacles  possible  in  the  way  of  any  change. 

The  Jesuits  have  given  the  Koreans  a  great  deal  of 
trouble  in  years  gone  by.  They  disguised  themselves, 
studied  the  language  in  China,  worked  their  way  into 
Korea,  set  up  their  religion,  and  preached,  making  some 
converts.  As  soon  as  discovered,  the  Korean  government 
thrust  them  out  with  fire  and  sword.  Many  were  burned 
at  the  stake,  others  torn  limb  from  limb,  and  still  others 
decapitated.  All  that  has  been  changed  in  the  last  few 
years,  and  now  the  missionarv  has  permission  to  live  in  the 
country  under  certain  restrictions,  and  is  doing  a  good 
work,  educating  the  poor,  healing  the  sick,  and  teaching 
the   people   how  to  live  and   die. 

Gen-san,  Korea 

Gen-san  ("  War-san,"  of  the  Koreans)  extends  for  a 
couple  of  miles  along  the  shores  of  Broughton  Bay,  which 
is  on  the  northeast  coast  of  Korea,  nearly  half-way 
between  Fu-san  and  Vladivostok.  Broughton  Bay  is  a 
beautiful  sheet  of  water,  surrounded  by  green  hills  which 
are  in  a  high  state  of  cultivation.  Gen-san  was  opened  to 
the  trade  of  the  world  In  1883.  The  town  consists  of 
about  two  thousand  houses,  with  a  population  of  about 
eighteen  thousand  inhabitants.  The  main  street  extends  the 
entire  length  of  the  town,  and  into  this  numerous  narrow 
and  crooked  lanes  open.  The  houses  are  mean  and  dirty, 
resembling  the  poverty-stricken  huts  of  the  native  settlement 
in  the   flats  at  Chemulpo.      There  is  an   open   space    near 


272      An   American    Cruiser   in   the   East 

each  end  of  the  main  street,  where  small  farmers  and  prod- 
uce dealers  congregate  each  week  for  the  purpose  of  ex- 
changing their  wares.  These  markets  are  very  picturesque 
and  interesting,  and  are  the  means  of  bringing  together  all 
classes  of  the  people,  native  and  foreign.  What  a  Babel 
of  sounds  !  Each  is  talking  in  his  own  language,  or  in 
some   compromise  between   it  and   the  others. 


Broughton  Bay  and  Gen-san. 

The  stalwart,  white-robed  Korean,  the  shock-headed 
obied  Japanese,  and  the  slick  Chinaman  in  silks,  barter  for 
rice  and  eggs  and  fowls.  The  musiime  exchanges  gossip 
with  the  veiled  Korean,  while  the  Chinese  maiden  balances 
herself  upon  her  deformed  feet.  The  Buddhist  priests 
"  chin-chin  "  to  each  other,  and  walk  off  with  a  few  eggs. 
The  oxen  and  the  ponies  make  friends,  and  the  geese  and 
fowls  get  mixed  in  their  rough  coops,  while  a  Chinese 
urchin  goes  screaming  down  the  road  with  a  young  Japa- 
nese and  a  Korean  pulling  at  his  pigtail. 


Ping-yang,   Korea  273 

The  Japanese,  as  usual,  have  a  neat,  clean  settlement 
of  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  comfortable  houses,  built 
in  the  Tokio  style,  and  have  surrounded  themselves  with 
many  of  the  elegances  of  their  own  land.  Their  Con- 
sulate, in  the  European  style  of  architecture,  is  a  very  large 
building,  containing  many  rooms,  where  Japanese  interests 
are  well  looked  after. 

The  Chinese  Consulate,  not  far  from  the  custom-house, 
is  situated  near  the  centre  of  the  Chinese  settlement. 

The  foreign  settlement  is  on  the  side  of  a  hill,  in  a  very 
healthy  locality.  The  houses  are  built  of  brick  or  wood, 
with,  tiled  or  thatched  roofs.  The  roads  are  soft,  and  are 
almost  impassable  in  rainy  weather.  The  Japanese  and 
Chinese  merchants  carry  on  an  extensive  business  in  cottons, 
silks,  dye-stuffs,  and  gold.  There  are  about  eighteen  hun- 
dred foreign  residents,  of  whom  about  fourteen  hundred 
are  Japanese.  The  country  about  Gen-san  is  in  a  good 
state  of  cultivation  of  produce,  rice,  and  grasses.  The 
soil  is  remarkably  fertile.  Mines  of  copper  are  worked  to 
a  limited  extent,  and  gold  is  found  in  the  neighboring 
mountains.  Cattle  are  very  fine  and  plentiful,  and  are 
raised  for  use  as   food   and  as  beasts  of  burden. 

Broughton  Bav  is  an  excellent  harbor,  with  good  depth 
of  water  and  fair  holding  ground.  It  is  roomy,  well  pro- 
tected against  stormv  winds,  and  easy  of  access.  Ice 
never  forms  to  a  thickness  that  interferes  with  the  com- 
merce of  the  port.  As  trade  improves,  the  natives  are 
attracted  to  the  town  so  that  it  is  growing  in  almost  all 
directions.  There  is  a  telegraph  line  under  Chinese  man- 
agement which  connects  the  town  with  the  capital. 

Trade  is  carried  on  by  Japanese  steamers  and  junks 
with  Japan,  China,  and  other  parts  of  the  kingdom.  The 
value  of  the  foreign  trade  is  about  1,500,000  Japanese  or 
Mexican  silver  dollars.  The  exports  are  hides,  beans,  rice, 
dried  fish,  skins,  and  gold.  The  imports  are  cotton  and 
silk  manufactured  goods,  metals,  and  dyes. 

iS 


274     ^^^  American   Cruiser  in  the  East 

Fu-SAN,  Korea 

Fu-san  ("  Pu-san,"  of  the  Koreans)  is  the  nearest  Korean 
town  to  Japan,  only  separated  from  Shimonoseki  by  the 
Japanese  Straits.  It  is  a  walled  town,  located  at  the  head 
of  a  beautiful  harbor  in  the  southeastern  end  of  the  penin- 
sula. It  is  the  residence  of  the  military  governor,  who  is 
in  charge  of  the  Royal  storehouses  for  rice,  which  are  lo- 
cated here.  There  are  only  a  few  miserable  huts  in  the 
town,  and  these  are  occupied  by  the  guards  and  laborers 
employed   about  the  storehouses. 

A  short  distance  from  the  walled  town,  opposite  Deer 
Island,  the  Japanese  settlement  is  located.  As  usual,  these 
clever  people  have  brought  their  homes  and  habits  with 
them,  and  the  little  town  is  as  methodically  laid  out,  well 
kept,  and  clean  as  any  little  town  in  Japan.  The  houses 
are  well  built  (in  the  Japanese  style),  are  comfortable,  and 
have  many  of  the  little  elegances  with  which  these  artistic 
people  surround  themselves. 

The  Japanese  Consul,  assisted  by  an  elective  council  of 
land-owners,  administers  the  affairs  of  the  settlement. 

The  police  are  uniformed  in  the  European  fashion. 
There  is  a  fairly  good  supply  of  water,  and  the  roads  are 
lighted  at  night  with  lamps,  which  burn  American  kero- 
sene. There  are  about  5,600  foreign  residents,  of  whom 
5,370  are  Japanese. 

Hanging  on  to  the  outskirts  of  the  Japanese  settlement 
is  a  collection  of  miserably  wretched,  thatched-roofed,  native 
cabins  and  huts,  with  an  even  more  wretched  population 
of  about  two  thousand  souls,  among  whom  the  males  find 
employment,  more  or  less  precarious,  with  the  foreign  resi- 
dents ;  and  this  is  about  the  storv  at  all  the  open  Korean 
ports.  These  poor  natives  gather  about  the  outskirts  of 
the  foreign  settlements,  live  in  miserable  huts,  and  as  they 
are  mentally    simple   and    childlike,   but  physically   strong, 


Ping-yang,   Korea  275 

they  eke  out  a  wretched  existence  by  avenues  new  to  them  ; 
and  thus  the  ranks  of  agriculturists  —  which  are  said  to 
be  overcrowded  —  find  relief.  While  workino;  and  livino; 
thus,  these  people  learn  foreign  methods ;  and  crude  and 
rough  though  it  be,  this  experience  is  sure  of  its  reward 
when  the  dawning  day  shall  burst  forth  into  the  full  noon 
of  Korean  prosperity. 

The  harbor  of  Fu-san  is  a  magnificent  body  of  water, 
with  sufficient  extent  and  depth  to  float  great  fleets  of  the 
largest  vessels.  The  climate  is  mild  and  healthy,  —  a  very 
Hygeia,  —  a  paradise  for  old  and  young,  where  one  can 
live  in  the  open  air  for  the  greater  part  of  the  year  ;  and 
the  place  has  one  of  the  finest  beaches  in  the  East,  where 
sea-bathing  can  be  indulged  in  at  all  times. 

The  important  town  of  Fong-nai-fu,  containing  about 
thirty  thousand  inhabitants,  is  about  eight  miles  inland. 

Japanese  steamers  and  junks  make  regular  trips  to 
Fu-san.  There  is  telegraphic  connection  with  the  capital, 
and  a  submarine  cable  connects  the  town  with  Japan. 
The  trade  of  the  port  amounts  to  about  four  million  Japan- 
ese or  Mexican  dollars  a  year. 

QuELPART,!   Korea 

What  South  Africa  was  to  the  British,  what  Siberia  is  to 
the  Russian,  so  Quelpart  is  to  the  Korean, — a  land  of 
banishment  and  exile.  This  dread  island  is  situated  about 
forty  miles  to  the  southward  and  westward  of  the  main- 
land of  Korea,  in  the  way  of  the  navigator  on  his  route 
from  Japan  to  the  northern  part  of  China.  The  coast  is 
high  and  rocky ;  and  as  there  is  no  reliable  harbor,  it  is 
dangerous  to  attempt  a  landing.  Deception  Bay,  as  its 
name  implies,  is  a  mere  indentation  on  the  northern  side 
of   the    island,   and     afFords    neither     holding    ground    nor 

1   Pronounced  Kell-par. 


276      An   American   Cruiser   in   the   East 

shelter  for  vessels.  The  everlasting,  restless,  dashing  sea 
upon  its  unsheltered,  rock-bound  shores  makes  the  landing 
extremely  dangerous. 

Fancy  scrambling  upon  the  slimy,  slippery  rocks  from  a 
surf-tossed  boat.  Struggling  up  the  face  of  the  rocks  and 
bowlders,  drenched  to  the  skin,  hanging  on  by  one's  fingers, 
then  a  foot-hold,  a  slip-back,  a  tug,  a  pull,  then  a  dreary 
prospect,  an  almost  hopeless  reach,  until  finally  one  has 
pulled,  crawled,  and  worked  himself  up  the  face  of  the 
rocks  for  two  hundred  feet  or  more,  when  the  lower 
plateau  is  reached.  What  a  scene  presents  itself !  Off 
yonder,  to  seaward,  a  great  ship  is  moving  about,  like  a 
monster  of  the  deep  ;  beyond,  the  heavens  and  the  waters 
seem  to  meet  and  merge  into  one.  Turning  inland,  the 
emerald  and  black  hills  and  plains  of  the  "  accursed  prison 
island  "  lie  before  one,  and  yonder  Auckland  looms  up  sixty- 
five  hundred  feet  towards  the  clouds,  and  offers  the  Korean 
a  holy  place  for  sacrifice  and  prayer. 

In  the  quiet  restfulness  of  the  place,  tired  nature  suc- 
cumbs to  repose ;  and,  on  awakening,  the  balmy  air,  the 
delicious  scent-laden  breezes,  the  sweet  songs  of  the  birds, 
and  the  presence  of  a  group  of  curious  natives  make 
one  feel  this  to  be  the  very  "Land  of  the  Morning  Calm." 

Near  Deception  Bay  is  a  native  settlement  of  several 
hundred  huts,  occupied  by  the  garrison  and  a  few  hundred 
inhabitants,  who  live  and  die  in  this  lonely  place  with 
scarcely  a  thought  of  the  world  without  and  its  affairs.  So 
innocent  and  ignorant  are  they  that  if  they  are  told  of  the 
great  countries  beyond,  or  of  current  events  of  the  world's 
history,  they  stare  at  you  as  if  in  a  daze,  with  no  sign  of 
appreciation.  They  have  no  knowledge  except  of  their 
little  crops,  hunts,  and  the  affairs  of  the  petty  island. 

In  olden  times,  the  island  was  a  resort  for  pirates  and 
thieves,  who  swarmed  the  neighboring  seas,  and  preyed  upon 
all   on  land  or  sea,  but  "  modern   appliances  "  having  ren- 


Ping-yang,   Korea  277 

dered  such  occupations,  to  say  the  least,  a  little  dangerous, 
the  island  has  been  given  over  to  more  honest  purposes. 
The  government  have  used  it  as  a  place  of  banishment  for 
offending  natives,  and  for  foreigners  who  have  had  the 
temeritv  to  penetrate  into  the  forbidden  land,  but  whose 
heads  it  was  deemed  ad\'isable  to  leave  upon  their  shoulders. 
Here  thev  languished  out  a  miserable,  hopeless  existence 
until  relieved  by   death. 

Up  to  the  foot  of  Mount  Auckland  a  rolling  land  is  inter- 
spersed with  hills  and  valleys,  while  waterfalls,  rippling, 
silvery  streams,  and  terrace  on  terrace,  add  their  beauty  to 
the  scene.  The  soil,  rich  and  productive,  is  well  cultivated 
in  many  places,  while  over  large  tracts  the  wild  hog  has 
almost  undisputed  sway.  The  monkey  frisks  and  chatters 
from  swinging  boughs,  while  the  almost  helpless  native  smiles 
in  innocent  glee  at  the  antics  of  the  Darwinian  specimen, 
and  either  attacks,  or  retreats  from  his  hairy  foe. 

Until  recently  the  government  maintained  a  system  of 
watchers  and  watch-towers  on  the  island,  as  well  as  on  the 
mainland,  to  signal  the  approach  of  suspicious  \'essels,  and 
to  give  warning  of  any  danger,  A  great  lire  was  lighted, 
the  smoke  of  which  could  be  seen  at  the  next  station,  and 
this  signal  was  repeated  from  station  to  station  until  seen 
at  Seoul. 

The  cultivation  of  a  friendship  with  a  few  of  the  natives 
induced  them  to  furnish  us  a  large  basket  and  a  coil  of 
straw  rope,  which  facilitated  the  descent  to  the  rocks  below 
and  at  the  same  time  lessened  its  danger. 


CHAPTER   XVI 

KOREA 

"  Land  of  the  Morning  Calm,  — and  evening  rest. 
And  afternoon  repose, — thy  life's  lot  seems 
A.  dolce  far  niente  undistressed 
By  labor's  pain  or  keen  ambition's  schemes. 
Keep  thou  thine  ancient  state;  since  countless  years 
Have  thrown  no  wave  of  progress  on  thy  shores, 
Best  now  to  stand  aside,  nor  share  the  fears 
Of  those  who  surge  and  clamor  at  thy  doors. 
Still  let  thy  sons,  like  shadows  of  the  past. 
White-clad  and  silent,  watch  the  distant  strife 
Nor  seek  to  know,  nor  long  the  die  to  cast 
Which  shall  with  knowledge  mar  thy  simple  life." 

KOREA,  Choson  ("Land  of  the  Morning  Calm"), 
called  Koria  bv  the  Portuguese,  who  were  the  first 
navigators  known  in  the  far  East,  and  still  called  Korea,  or 
Corea,  by  foreigners,  is  a  peninsula  situated  on  the  north- 
eastern side  of  Asia,  extending  southwestward  between 
China  and  Japan.  It  is  about  six  hundred  miles  long,  and 
lies  between  the  34th  and  43d  degrees  of  north  latitude. 
The  Sea  of  Japan  is  on  its  eastern  side,  Manchuria  lies  to 
the  north,  the  Yellow  Sea  is  on  the  westward,  and  the 
Korean  Channel  marks  its  southern  limit.  It  has  a  coast- 
line of  about  seventeen  hundred   miles. 

Korea  is  a  land  of  mountains  and  hills,  many  being  from 
1,000  to  8,000  feet  in  height.  They  appear  snarled  and 
tumbled  about  in  all  directions,  but  the  trend  is  northwest 
by   southeast.       The   highest    lie  towards   Manchuria,  and 


Korea  279 

here  the  Yalu  and  the  Tumun  rivers  are  formed.  Hieu-fung, 
the  highest  mountain  in  Korea,  is  8,114  feet  high,  and  is 
at  the  southeastern  extremity  of  the  range. 

The  Yalu,  the  chief  river  of  Korea,  and  a  portion  of  its 
northern  boundary,  has  two  sources,  one  on  the  southern 
slopes  of  the  mountains,  the  other  in  the  northeastern 
portion  of  the  peninsula.  These  unite  and  form  the 
"three-mouthed  river,"  the  eastern,  central,  and  western. 
The  eastern  is  the  deepest,  but  has  the  strongest  current, 
the  central  has  less  current,  and  the  western  is  compara- 
tively small  and  safe.  It  is  about  forty-five  miles  from  the 
harbor  of  Taku.  Until  verv  recently  the  navigation  of 
this  branch  was  interdicted  by  the  Korean  government,  and 
strangers  found  attempting  to  use  it  were  put  to  death  or 
transported  to  Quelpart.  Its  navigation,  like  that  of  all 
Korean  rivers,  is  unsafe  on  account  of  many  sandbars. 

The  Tumun  is  the  second  great  river  in  Korea.  It 
takes  its  rise  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  northern  range  of 
mountains  and  flows  into  the  Yellow  Sea.  The  Han 
River,  upon  which  Seoul,  the  capital,  is  situated,  and  the 
Ping-yang,  rise  in  this  range  of  mountains,  and  are  very 
important  rivers.  These  rivers  are  frozen  over  for  several 
months  in  the  year. 

The  navigation  of  this  entire  coast  is  dangerous,  owing 
to  the  strong  tides  and  currents  among  the  islands  and 
rocks  and  the  prevalence  of  dense  fogs.  There  are  several 
deep,  well-sheltered  harbors  on  both  coasts,  which  will  be 
more  fully  noticed  in  the  descriptions  of  the  settlements. 

Korea  possesses  many  advantages  in  hills,  dales,  sea,  and 
river,  and,  lying  at  the  mouth  of  the  Yellow  Sea,  it  receives 
the  moderating  influence  of  the  southwest  monsoon,  which 
tempers  the  climate  and  necessarily  causes  many  productions 
to  surpass  those  of  the  continent  in  similar  latitudes.  The 
climate  is  healthy,  invigorating,  and  bracing  in  the  northern 
part,  where  the  winters  are  long  and  cold.      The   southern 


280    An   American   Cruiser  in   the   East 

portion  is  exposed  to  the  winds  from  the  Yellow  Sea  and 
the  Korean  Channel,  which  moderate  the  winters  and  make 
the   summers   enjoyable. 

The  common  people  suffer  terribly  from  scarcity  of  fuel. 
The  mines  are   filled  with  coal,  but  there  are  no  means  of 


His  Majesty  Li-Fin,  King  of  Korea,  and  his  Royal  Highness 
THE  Crown  Prince. 


distribution,  even  if  permission  to  work  the  mines  were 
given  ;  and  so  much  of  the  arable  land  is  under  cultivation 
for  the  food  supply  that  there  are  not  enough  forests  to 
furnish   fuel.      Their  only  relief  is  in  warm  clothing.      The 


Korea  281 

wealthy  line  their  robes  with  the  skins  of  animals,  while 
the  middle  class  and  the  poor  quilt  cotton-wool  in  their 
garments.  Clothing  made  of  wool  is  unknown  to  them. 
In  the  capital,  a  favored  few  obtain  small  quantities  of  sur- 
face coal,  which  is  mixed  with  a  proportion  of  mud  to  give 
it  body,  and  is  burned  in  open  grates.  It  gives  out  a  heat 
that  is  anything  but  satisfactory. 

Korea  for  political  purposes  is  divided  into  eight  prov- 
inces, and  each  ot  these  is  subdivided  into  smaller  jurisdic- 
tions, as  in  China.  The  people  are  of  the  same  race  as 
the  Japanese  and  Chinese.  In  appearance,  they  are  like 
the  people  of  North  China,  but  they  are  more  frank  and 
more  like  the  Japanese  in  their  manners.  Thev  are  a  brave 
people,  and  are  excellent  friends  but  dangerous  foes  ;  their 
history  is  full  of  the  proofs  of  this.  They  have  frequently 
fought  the  Japanese  and  the  Chinese,  and  the  French  and 
Americans  can  bear  witness  to  their  courage.  Their  devo- 
tion to  the  cause  of  the  Roman  Catholic  priests  in  their 
hour  of  trial,  and  their  open  door  and  hearty  welcome  to 
every  comer,  clearly  proves  their  friendship  and  hospitality. 

According  to  native  history,  a  Chinese  warrior  named 
Kisbi,  or  Kitaze,  who  in  11  22  b.  c.  was  defeated  and  had 
his  army  put  to  rout  by  the  Tartars,  fearing  to  return  to 
his  native  country  with  broken  fortunes,  led  his  followers 
down  the  peninsula,  subdued  the  native  "  hairy  "  race  he 
found  there,  established  the  political  and  social  order,  and 
became  the  first  Korean  monarch.  His  descendants  are 
said  to  have  ruled  until  the  fourth  century  b.  c.  As  the 
*'  hairy  "  people,  or  Ainos,  were  of  an  indolent  but  inde- 
pendent disposition,  and  could  not  be  utilized  in  the  new 
economy,  their  lands  were  confiscated  and  the  owners 
disposed  of.  The  present  dynasty  is  descended  from  Ni- 
Taijo,  a  young  soldier  of  fortune  who  succeeded  in  depos- 
ing the  Wang  dynasty.  Seoul,  whose  native  name  is 
Han-van  (city  on   the   Han),  was   selected  by  Ni-Taijo  as 


282    An  American   Cruiser  in   the  East 


his  capital,  and  it  has  remained  the  capital  city  since  that 
time.  The  present  ruler,  His  Majesty  King  Li-Fin,  is  the 
twenty-eighth  sovereign  of  the  present  line. 

The  kingdom  is  governed,  under  the  King  and  three 
Prime  Ministers,  by  five  Departments,  —  those  of  Finance, 
Ceremonies,  Public  Employment,  War,  and  Justice,  The 
general  administration  of  the  government  is 
patterned  after  that  of  China.  The  revenue 
for  the  support  of  the  government  is  derived 
from  the  land  tax,  and  amounts  to  about 
one  million  of  Japanese  or  Mexican  dollars 
each  year.  The  King,  though  an  indepen- 
dent sovereign,  recognized  the  Emperor  of 
China  by  a  yearly  tribute  until  the  year 
1895,  when  before  the  tablets  of  his  an- 
cestors he  solemnly  declared  his  indepen- 
dence of  China. 

The  Koreans  have  always  been  able 
military  engineers,  skilled  in  the  construc- 
tion and  defence  of  fortifications.  After  the 
lapse  of  twelve  hundred  years,  ruins 
of  their  works  are  to  be  met  with  on 
all  sides  as  we  travel  about  the  coast, 
from  the  round  tower,  with  encircling 
court,  to  the  great  walls  surrounding 
a  city,  —  on  plains,  on  hills,  and  on 
spurs  on  the  mountain-side. 
Among  the  rugged  mountains  which  are  the  barrier-wall 
between  Korea  and  Manchuria,  and  in  the  valley  of  the 
Yalu,  ranges  a  tribe  of  independent  mountaineers  who  live 
in  defiance  of  both  Korea  and  China.  They  have  fre- 
quently been  attacked  by  the  Chinese  forces,  but  it  has 
been  found  impossible  to  dislodge  them.  They  are  of 
Manchu  descent  and  are  partially  civilized,  are  expert 
"  medicine  men,"  and  occupy  themselves  in  gathering  and 


r.  Prime  Minister  of  Korea. 


Korea  283 

preparing  medicinal  roots,  and  in  hunting  for  gold.  At 
certain  seasons  they  meet  the  Chinese  and  the  Koreans 
and  exchange  their  medicines  and  gold  for  products  of 
China  and   Korea. 

For  centuries  the  Koreans  successfully  resisted  all  efforts 
to  induce  them  to  hold  intercourse  with  foreigners,  going 
to  the  extent  of  converting  their  border-land  and  the  entire 
coast  into  a  desert,  in  order  to  render  entrance  as  drearv  and 
as  unattractive  as  possible,  and  visiting  the  punishment  of 
death  upon  any  person  who  had  the  temerity  to  pass  the 
bounds  thus  set.  At  the  same  time,  they  were  striving  to 
build  up  a  nation  worthy  of  the  country  they  inhabited, 
and  they  became  masters  and  teachers  in  literature  and 
poetry,  in  metal  and  art  work,  painting  and  embroidery, 
and  for  hundreds  of  years  they  instructed  the  Japanese  and 
the    Chinese. 

They  invented  one  of  the  most  perfect  languages  in 
existence,  —  a  religion  founded  upon  the  teachings  of  Con- 
fucius,—  and  their  engineers  were  building  civil  and  military 
works  in  the  East  when  Rome  was  young.  Their  mastery 
of  the  arts  has  been  lost  in  a  great  measure,  and  the  de- 
scendant of  the  master  has  taken  the  place  of  pupil,  while 
the  descendant  of  the  pupil  has  become  the  master.  But  it 
must  be  remembered  that  much  skill  still  remains  in  Korea, 
as  is  demonstrated  by  their  beautiful  boats,  which  are  made 
of  wood  without  metal  fastenings,  guns,  small  and  large, 
nearly  ail  breech-loading  and  of  most  beautiful  workman- 
ship, and  their  artistic  costumes. 

The  houses  of  the  wealthy  class  in  Korea  are  oblong, 
one  story  in  height,  built  of  stone  or  wood,  plastered  inside 
and  out,  and  covered  with  a  thatched  roof.  The  door  is 
placed  near  one  corner  of  the  house ;  near  it  is  a  boiler  for 
cooking,  and  a  small  space  for  the  cook  to  work  in.  The 
"  kang,"  a  mammoth  stove  of  brick,  stones,  or  terra-cotta, 
is  built  within   this  room,  and  the  top  of  it  forms  the  floor 


284    An   American   Cruiser   in   the  East 

of  the  remaining  portion  of  the  house.  The  sleeping- 
rooms  are  at  the  back  end  of  the  "  kang,"  which  serves  to 
warm  them,  and  the  fire  which  is  used  for  cooking  purposes 
also  heats  the  "  kang."  The  windows  are  small  openings 
covered  with  oiled  paper  or  scraped  skins  of  animals,  and 
only  serve  to  show  the  inmates  how  dark  it  is  within  the 
room.  The  houses  of  the  people  of  the  better  class  are 
neat   and  clean. 


Thu  "Choson,"  the  only  Vessel  in  the  Korean  Navy. 


Like  all  Eastern  people,  the  Koreans  have  great  venera- 
tion for  age,  and  a  white  head  is  a  "  crown  of  glory." 
The  Japanese  and  the  Chinese  shave  the  hair  from  the 
heads  of  their  hoys,  sometimes  in  fantastic  shape;  but  the 
Koreans  allow  their  hair  to  grow  all  over  the  head,  part  it 
in  the  middle,  and  wear  the  back  portion  hanging  down  \n 
a  broad  plait.  When  they  marry,  this  plait  is  cut  off, 
leaving  a  stump  about  four  inches  long,  which  is  turned 
up,   flat   on   the   head,   and   worn   under  the    hat. 


K 


orea 


285 


In  the  northern  part  of  the  country,  the  poorer  classes 
dress  in  clothes  made  from  a  species  of  s>;rass-cloth,  woven 
from  a  fibrous  plant  which  is  cultivated  extensively.  This 
cloth  bleaches  as  white  as  cotton,  and  is  substituted  for 
it.  In  the  southern  part  of  the  country  cotton  is  worn, 
and  the  people  dress  in  white,  except  when  in  mourning, 
the  color  for  that  costume  being  a  whity-brown.  The 
wealthy  wear  silks,  either  of  their  own  or  of  Chinese  manu- 
facture. The  poor  people  use  straw  sandals,  while  the 
upper  classes  wear  shoes  made  of  cloth,  or  of  leather,  both 
having  leather  soles  and  pointed  toes.  The  middle  classes 
wear  shoes  made  of  stout  twine  plaited  ;  the  soles  are  made 
first,  then  the  upper  part  is  worked  on,  and  it  is  remarkable 
how  well  these  shoes  wear.  The  hats  have  broad  brims 
and  cylinder  tops,  and  are  made  of  black  horsehair  or  of 
fine  woven  grass.  This  costume  is  after  the  style  of  the 
Ming  dynastv  in  China.  The  buttons  are  of  amber,  orna- 
ments of  jadestone,  and  the  ladies  afi-'ect  pearls.  In  the 
northern  part  of  the  district,  dishes  and  table-ware  are  made 
of  polished  cast-brass,  which  is  rich  in  copper,  while  in  the 
southern  part  the  table-fittings  are  made  of  clay  and  porce- 
lain. Prospectors  claim  that  the  country  is  rich  in 
minerals. 

All  cereals  and  vegetables  are  found  in  abundance  ;  grapes, 
apricots,  peaches,  plums,  apples,  pears,  and  cherries  grow 
throughout  the  country  ;  and  gooseberries,  currants,  and 
strawberries  are  found  in  the  northern  part.  The  fruits 
come  to  great  perfection,  but  owing  to  over-cultivation  they 
do  not  have  the  rich  flavor  of  corresponding  fruits  raised  in 
the  Middle  States  of  our  own  country. 

The  cotton  produced  in  Korea  is  of  staple  and  fine 
quality,  similar  to  the  best  of  Sea  Island  cotton.  Formerly, 
large  quantities  of  foreign  cotton  cloth  were  purchased  from 
the  Chinese  at  the  gates.  Koreans  raise  no  sheep,  and 
have  no  woollen  manufactures.     The  mulberry-tree  is  culti- 


286    An   American   Cruiser  in   the   East 

vated  ill  many  places,  the  bark  being  used  in  the  manurac- 
ture  of  a  paper  which  is  known  all  over  the  northern  part 
of  China,  and  it  is  especially  valued  for  its  texture  and 
streno;th.      It   is  used  for  screens,  windows,  umbrellas,  etc. 


A    Koia.A.N    i'AMlLV. 


Medicines  used  by  the  Chinese  are  produced  in  great  quan- 
tities in  Korea.  Ginseng,  a  celebrated  tonic,  constitutes 
one  of  the  most  important  articles  of  trade  ;  and  tobacco, 
of  a  mild  quality,  is  grown  in  many  places,  and  is  almost 
universally   used. 


Korea  287 

The  elm,  several  varieties  of  pine,  the  cedar,  several 
species  of  oak,  birches,  and  cork-trees  are  common.  The 
iron-wood,  hawthorn,  and  the  wild  tig  are  frequentlv  met. 
Chestnuts  and  several  other  varieties  of  nut-bearins:  trees 

o 

are  found,  and  the  valley  of  the  Yalu  is  celebrated  all 
through  the   far   East   for   its   massive   pines. 

The  Korean  horse  is  small  of  stature,  but  of  good  wind 
and  bottom.  Oxen  are  raised  all  over  the  country  in  large 
numbers  for  agricultural  purposes  and  for  food  ;  dogs,  cats, 
and  pigs  are  common,  but  they  are  smaller  than  with  us. 
Wolves,  tigers,  and  the  wild  hog  are  nuisances  in  the  north, 
and  the  lives  of  the  natives  are  made  miserable  by  their 
raids.  The  eagle,  pheasant,  stork,  and  crane  are  common, 
and  ducks,  fish,  clams,  and  crabs,  similar  to  those  found  in 
our  waters,  abound. 

The  Japanese  give  the  following  account  of  their  first 
Invasion  of  Korea. 

"In  192  A.  D.  Chin-ai,  the  fourteenth  Mikado  of  Japan, 
was  holding  his  court  at  Isuruga,  Eichizen,  when  a  rebellion 
broke  out  in  Kiushiu.  He  marched  at  once  to  Kiushiu  against 
the  rebels,  and  there  fell  by  disease,  or  by  an  arrow.  His 
wife,  Jungu  Koge,  after  his  death  headed  the  Japanese 
army,  and,  leading  the  troops  in  person,  quelled  the  revolt. 
She  then  ordered  all  the  available  forces  of  her  realm  to 
assemble  for  an  invasion  of  Shina,  Korea. 

"  All  being  ready,  the  Queen  Regent  set  sail  from  the 
coast  of  Hizen,  Japan,  in  the  tenth  month  a.  d.  202,  and 
beached  the  fleet  safely  on  the  coast  of  Shina. 

"  The  King  of  Shina  was  struck  with  terror  and  resolved 
to  submit.  Tying  his  hands  in  token  of  submission,  and  in 
presence  of  Queen  Jungu,  he  declared  himself  to  be  the 
slave  of  Japan.  Jungu  caused  her  bow  to  be  suspended 
over  the  gate  of  the  palace  of  the  King  in  sign  of  his 
submission. 


288    An   American   Cruiser   in   the   East 

"■  She  restored  the  King  to  the  throne  as  her  vassal  ;  the 
tribute  was  then  collected  and  laden  into  eighty  junks,  with 
hostages  for  future  annual  tribute.  The  tribute  comprised 
pictures,  works  of  elegance  and  art,  mirrors,  gold,  silver, 
jadestones,  and  silk  fabrics.  The  Japanese  ascribe  the 
glory  of  this  victory  to  the  then  unborn  babe  who  was 
afterwards  deified  as  Ojiu,  god    of  war,  and  worshipped  as 


Sacred  White  Horse  of  Jungu  Temple. 

Hachimiu,  or  the  Eight-bannered  Buddha.  Manv  temples 
are  dedicated  to  Jungu,  the  one  at  Hyogo  (Kobe),  being  espe- 
cially famous.  And  a  sacred  horse  is  alwavs  kept  here 
ready  for  the  commander  who  is  to  lead  the  forces  for  the 
defence  of  Japan." 

I  made  a  picture  of  the  poor  beast,  and  found  him  to  be 
so  badly  fed  that  1  doubt  if  he  would  be  able  to  carry  his 
own  holy  bones  very  far,  if  he  were  let  out  of  his  cage  and 
given  a  crack  of  the  whip.  Just  outside  of  his  stable  a 
small  stand  is  erected  where  beans  can  be  bought,  ten  beans- 


Korea  291 

for  a  cash,  —  a  cash  being  about  one  tenth  of  a  cent. 
Whoever  has  pity  for  the  poor  creature  buys  beans  and 
feeds  them  to  the  horse.  Amongst  the  common  people,  a 
belief  is  current  that  if  they  have  a  question  to  be  answered  by 
Buddha,  they  can  get  the  answer  through  the  horse  :  thus,  if 
the  beans  are  all  licked  up  by  the  horse,  the  answer  is 
negative  ;  but  if  a  bean  is  left  in  the  tub,  the  answer  is 
affirmative. 

Korea  has  been  invaded  by  both  Chinese  and  Japanese, 
but  before  1894  she  enjoyed  such  rest  and  seclusion 
that  she  became  known  as  the  "  Hermit  nation."  The 
Chinese,  Japanese,  and  other  nations  have  tried  to  force 
themselves  into  the  countrv  at  various  times  for  the  pur- 
poses of  trade,  but  with  indifferent  success  until  in  187 1, 
when  the  United  States  sent  a  fleet  to  Korea,  and  made  a 
treaty  with  the  country.  Since  that  time  foreigners  have 
had  the  right  to  trade  at  Seoul  and  at  Chemulpo.  After  the 
settlement  of  Japanese  in  the  ports  of  Fu-sah  and  Fuensen, 
and  the  better  acquaintance  of  the  natives  with  them,  the 
prejudice  against  foreign  intercourse  gradually  died  awav. 

In  the  country  districts,  the  men  break  the  ground,  but 
the  women  sow  the  seeds,  gather  the  crops,  and  attend  the 
cattle.  The  women  also  spin  the  cotton,  weave  the  cloth, 
and  fashion  and  make  the  household  garments,  while  the 
men  roam  over  the  country. 

Occupving  one  of  the  most  varied,  fertile,  and  beautiful 
countries  on  the  face  of  the  earth,  with  a  climate  similar  to 
our  own  Middle  States,  the  people  may  be  called  a  nation  of 
homeless  wanderers.  Their  houses  are  small  and  mean, 
merely  coverings  to  protect  them  from  the  sunshine  and 
the  rains,  with  bare  earth-floors,  or  at  best  a  mat  for  cover- 
ing. The  sexes  have  separate  apartments,  and  there  can 
be  no  feeling  of  home.  There  is  very  little  that  can  be 
dignified  by  the  name  of  furniture,  as  thev  have  no  need  of 
chairs  or  tables.      The  heated   stone  slab  of  the  "  kang; " 


292    An  American   Cruiser  in   the  East 

takes  the  place  of  a  bed,  and  a  few  brass  tea-cups  and  a 
tea-pot  is  about  the  extent  of  their  possessions  in  this  line. 

There  are  no  newspapers,  and  very  few  books  can  be 
obtained  by  the  poor.  There  is  no  entertainment  except 
gossip,  not  even  music,  for  they  are  not  a  music-loving 
people.  They  love  to  sit  and  contemplate  the  beautiful 
surroundings,  or  to  wander  from  place  to  place  and  discuss 
the  news. 

The  principal  articles  of  import  are  cotton  manufactures  ; 
but  the  amount  of  these  has  been  disappointing  to  the 
foreigners  who  have  been  interested  in  the  trade. 

It  must  be  remembered  that  the  people  are  poor,  very 
poor,  and  every  housewife  spins  the  cotton,  weaves  the 
cloth,  and  makes  the  garments  that  are  worn  by  her  entire 
household.  This  is  her  recreation,  after  her  agricultural 
labors  have  been  performed.  She  knows  nothing  better, 
and  it  would  be  a  crime  to  deprive  her  of  these  occupations 
until  she  has  been  educated  in  other  directions. 

The  population  of  Korea  is  about  ten  millions.  The 
foreign  trade  is  valued  at  about  eight  million  silver 
dollars  per  annum.  The  principal  articles  of  export  are 
rice,  hides,  bones,  beans,  and  small  quantities  of  gold. 
The  customs  service  is  modelled  after  that  of  China,  and 
is  subordinate  to   it. 


CHAPTER   XVII 


SHANGHAI,    CHINA 


WITH  Steam  and 
sail,  and  a  fresh 
blowing  monsoon  at  our 
heels,  we  made  good 
speed  across  the  Yellow 
Sea.  For  the  last  fifty 
miles  or  more  we  were 
in  the  cold,  chocolate- 
colored  waters  from  the 
Yang-tse,  and  on  nearer 
approach  our  western  hor- 
izon became  a  long  brown 
line,  indicating  the  low 
shores  of  mysterious  "  old 
Cathay." 

We  took  on  a  pilot,  ran  near  the  light-ship  for  a  while, 
and  then  stood  on  the  course.  Fantastic  shapes  of  curling 
smoke  hung  in  the  heavens  ;  masts  of  vessels,  and  the  forms 
of  trees  loomed  up  ahead  of  us ;  fleets  of  bamboo-sailed 
junks,  with  great  eyes  carved  and  painted  on  their  bows 
passed,  and  crews  of  pig-tailed  "  Celestials  "  leered  at  us  as 
they  trimmed  sail  or  steered  the  dingy  cratts. 

The  entrance  of  the  river  is  dangerous,  as  the  coast  is 
low  and  mud-banks  lie  in  every  direction.  The  river-banks 
are  studded  here  and  there  by  walled  villages,  or  mud-forts, 
bristlino;    with   great  guns.      The   fields    are   crowded   with 


Chinese  Junk. 


294    ^^  American   Cruiser  in  the  East 

round-top  grave-like  bakers'  ovens.  Here  and  there^ 
the  hairless  water-bufFalo  wallows  in  the  slimy  mud,  and 
the  sad-faced  coolie  toils  with  hoe  or  line,  sighing  for  a 
laundry   in  America. 

We  crossed  the  bar  at  Woosung,  the  "•  Heavenly  Barrier," 
across  which  the  Chinese  sank  stone-laden  junks  in  1884, 
to  keep  the  French  from  ascending  the  river.  One  narrow 
channel  was  left  open,  and  this  has  washed  out  and  deep- 
ened somewhat.  At  certain  stages  of  the  tide,  vessels 
drawing  eighteen  feet  of  water  can  cross  the  bar  and  pro- 

DC?  * 

ceed  to  Shanghai ;  but,  owing  to  the  shallow  lumps  and 
shifting  channel,  the  navigation  is  extremely  dangerous. 

The  intention  was  to  build  up  Woosung  thirteen  miles 
below,  and  avoid  these  dangers  by  having  vessels  anchor 
there.  As  Shanghai  had  become  too  valuable  to  abandon,, 
it  was  deemed  best  to  connect  the  two  places  by  rail.  A 
railwav  was  built  and  equipped  about  twenty-five  years  ago,, 
and  after  its  completion  a  syndicate  of  Chinese  bought  it 
out  at  a  high  price.  The  people  who  sold  the  road  con- 
gratulated themselves  on  the  nice  way  in  which  they  had 
"  done  the  Chinese,"  but  their  congratulations  were  sud- 
denly turned  to  consternation  when  thev  learned  that  the 
new  owners  had  torn  up  the  tracks  and  thrown  them  and 
the  locomotives  into  the  river,  declaring  that  the  road  had 
obstructed  "  fung-shuv,"  and  brought  bad  luck  to  the 
country. 

As  we  ascended  the  river,  the  scene  became  more 
animated  :  crowds  of  junks,  painted  in  gay  colors,  but  dingy 
with  dirt  and  age,  drifted  or  sailed  swiftly  by  us ;  great  and 
small  junks  from  the  coast,  or  great  canal,  laden  with  rice, 
or  oil,  or  matting,  sailed  on,  or  hugged  the  river's  bank, 
waiting  for  change  of  wind,  and  steamers  from  every 
quarter  of  the  globe  rode  at  anchor,  awaiting  their  precious 
freights.  Along  the  river's  banks,  paddy-fields  have  given 
place    to    great    shipyards    and    drv-docks,    foundries    and' 


Shanghai,   China  295 

machine-shops,  marine  railways  and  great  storehouses.     A 
little  further  up,  and  we  are  before  an  imposing  city. 

We  now  have  a  full  view  of  the  most  important  com- 
mercial city  in  the  far  East,  with  its  magnificent  buildings, 
steeples,  and  spires,  unrivalled  shops,  hard,  smooth  roads, 
and  beautiful  drives.  Little  steam-cutters  fly  about  between 
shipping  and  shore,  the  sampan  with  sail  and  scull,  and  all 
the  noises  and  bustling  of  a  great,  busy,  driving  centre  are 
present. 

Shanghai  is  situated  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Woosung 
River,  a  tributary  of  the  Yang-tse,  at  their  intersection.  It 
is  in  latitude  31°  9'  north,  and  longitude  121°  4'  east, 
about  twenty   miles   from  the  sea. 

The  United  States,  German,  and  Japanese  consulates 
are  situated  on  the  river-front.  The  public  garden,  where 
a  fine  military  band  plays  every  afternoon,  is  just  across  the 
creek,  and  the  business  part  of  the  city  extends  further  up 
the  river.  The  French  Concession  is  still  further  up,  and 
beyond  it  is  the  old  walled  Chinese  city. 

There  is  a  fine  club  in  the  English  settlement  facing  the 
river-front,  and  a  Country  Club  a  short  distance  outside  of 
the  city,  on  the  Bubbling-well  Road,  where  handsome 
grounds  can  be  enjoyed,  and  ball  and  tennis  indulged  in. 
There  is  a  fine  racecourse  a  short  distance  outside  of  the 
settlement ;  the  autumn  and  spring  meets  are  events  which 
attract  crowds  from  all  over  the  coast,  business  is  suspended, 
and  everybody  attends  the  races.  Chinese  ponies  are 
entered  and  run  at  these  races.  They  are  a  stunted  breed, 
with  good  wind  and  fair  bottom.  The  races  are  well  con- 
tested, and  some  very  good  time  has  been  made,  both  in 
running  and   steeple-chase. 

The  drives  about  Shanghai  are  delightful  and  interesting. 
If  one  runs  out  the  Bubbling-well  Road,  mounted  upon  a 
Chinese  cob,  or  on  the  Sickaway,  and  to  the  "  Point,"  and 
return  in  a  dogcart,  he  will  have  enjoyed  a  variety  of  inter- 


296    An  American   Cruiser  in   the  East 

esting  and  ever-changing  scenes.  One  is  impressed  with 
the  great  number  of  Chinese  graves  which  are  everywhere 
except  in  the  middle  of  the  roads.  Some  are  well  kept, 
some  are  badly  kept,  and  many  have  not  even  a  covering 
over  the  strong  box  which  contains  the  corpse.  Some  have 
so  cracked,  warped,  and  parted  as  to  expose  the  ghastly 
bones  within.  Along  the  roads  and  at  their  terminus  there 
are  neatly  kept  inns  where  rest  and  refreshments  may  be 
had. 

Old   Shanghai 

Having  secured  the  services  of  "a  guide,  philosopher, 
and  friend  (?)  "  in  the  shape  of  an  intelligent  Chinaman,  we 
pass  through  the  French  Concession,  and  soon  reach  the 
suburbs  of  the  old  walled  city  of  Shanghai.  No  one  can 
say  how  old  the  city  is,  as  the  date  of  its  settlement  is  lost 
in  the  obscurity  of  ages,  and  there  is  no  known  record  of 
the  people  who  first  dwelt  here.  The  city  is  surrounded 
by  a  double  brick  wall,  about  fifteen  feet  high,  which 
is  filled  in  with  earth,  making  the  whole  thickness  some 
twenty-five  feet.  A  roadway  is  formed  on  the  top  of 
this  wall,  where  troops  can  be  moved  about  for  the  defence 
of  the  city.  The  top  is  reached  by  means  of  broad 
stone  steps  for  foot-soldiers,  and  broad  inclined  roads  for 
the  artillery.  The  wall  is  about  three  miles  in  circum- 
ference,  and   is   in  a   fair  state  of  preservation. 

There  are  six  large  gateways,  each  having  double  iron 
doors  leading  into  the  city,  and  there  are  other  gateways  in 
different  localities  inside  of  the  city,  which  divide  it  into 
districts.  Any  or  all  of  these  gates  may  be  closed  in 
troublesome  times,  in  case  of  fire,  riot,  or  other  commotion, 
or  when  it  is  deemed  desirable  to  isolate  a  district.  The  gates 
are  always  closed  at  night,  when  each  district  is  shut  oft 
from  the  other,  and  the  whole  city  is  closed  to  the  outside 
world.      The  approaches  to  these  outer  gates  are  filthy  in 


Shanghai,   China  297 

the  extreme,  and    there   do  not    appear  to   be  any  sanitary 
arrangements,  inside  or  outside. 

Crowds  of  Chinese  —  men,  women,  and  children,  rich 
and  poor  and  beggars  —  were  elbowing  and  crowding  each 
other,  in  and  out,  through  the  gates  ot"  the  city,  and  at  no 
time  did  we  see  a  vestige  of  that  courtesy  and  kindly  greet- 
ing that  is  so  prevalent  in  Japan.  Here  it  seemed  to  be 
everyone  for  himself,  as  though  his  very  life  depended  upon 
the  business  in  hand.  As  we  passed  through  the  gateway, 
we  were  scowled  at  by  a  couple  of  dark,  fierce-looking  pig- 
tailed  soldiers,  who  were  guarding  the  entrance.  We  looked 
into  the  dingy  little  "guard-house,"  just  inside  of  the  gate. 
Opposite  its  entrance  was  a  stand  of  banners  with  spears 
and  some  ancient  weapons,  —  ugly  instruments  of  torture 
for  close  quarters,  but  not  such  as  one  expects  to  see  in  the 
closing  days  of  this  century.  These,  together  with  a  heavy 
revolver,  completed  the  arms  of  the  fierce  braves  who  were 
lounging  upon  the  mats  in  dirty  blue-and-scarlet  uniforms. 

The  streets  are  about  eight  feet  wide,  and  are  paved  with 
stones,  which  reach  from  house  to  house.  They  are  lined 
on  each  side  with  neat  two-story  houses,  whose  roofs  are 
of  tiles.  The  lower  floors  are  gay,  open-front  shops,  where 
wares  are  temptingly  exposed  to  view.  People  swarm  the 
streets  in  great  crowds,  pushing  and  jostling  as  they  come 
and  go ;  pedlers  hawk  their  fish,  fruits,  or  some  odd 
article  fancied  by  our  Celestial  friends  ;  a  monotonous  song 
of  the  swinging  bearers  drowns  the  voices  of  the  throng  as 
some  dignitary  is  borne  along  in  closed  palanquin.  A  poor 
coolie  picks  his  weary  way  with  a  great  beam  of  wood,  or 
an  unwieldy  pack  upon  shoulders  or  back  ;  the  statue-like 
beggar  thumps  his  little  bell  until  you  satisfy  his  demands; 
the  farmer's  man  jogs  along  with  balanced  buckets  of  filth  ; 
the  outrunners  of  some  wedding  or  funeral  procession,  or 
the  henchmen  of  some  mandarin,  make  a  way  through  the 
throng  for  their  procession,  or  for  their  lord  and  master. 


298    An  American   Cruiser  in  the  East 

There  is  a  great  forbearance  manifested  in  all  these 
crowds  ;  seldom  is  there  an  unpleasant  word,  and  rarely  any 
breach  of  the  peace.  In  other  lands  a  large  police  force 
would  be  required  to  maintain  order  in  such  crowded 
thoroughfares,  but  here  everything  adjusts  itself,  —  the 
people  give  and  take,  and   pass  on. 

The  nearest  approach  to  an  evidence  of  friendship  one 
sees  is  in  the  meeting  of  two  acquaintances  face  to  face, 
when  each  places  the  palms  of  his  hands  together,  shakes 
his  own  hands,  and  each  profoundly  bows  to  the  other 
person. 

There  is  a  little  niche  on  one  side  of  the  entrance  of 
every  shop,  where  joss-sticks  are  kept  burning  for  luck,  and 
there  is  a  shrine  and  a  god  in  the  principal  room,  before 
which  the  aromatic  punt  sends  up  its  fragrance  in  inverse 
proportion  to  the  daily  sales.  The  little  shops  are  filled 
with  silks  and  satins,  plain,  in  colors,  stripes,  and  plaids  ; 
brocades  of  all  colors,  in  bird  and  beast,  and  flower  patterns,, 
beautiful  embroideries,  in  plain  and  natural  colors,  fringes, 
ribbons,  laces,  and  skeins,  gauzes,  and  pongees,  that  are 
celebrated  throughout  the  world  ;  and  it  is  interesting  to  see 
the  patient  weavers  and  workers  in  embroidery,  as  their  deft 
fingers  and  trained  eyes  guide  the  shuttle  or  needle  in  the 
manufacture  of  the  beautiful  goods. 

Furs  of  all  kinds  and  grades,  from  the  almost  priceless 
sable  to  the  humble  sheepskin,  are  to  be  seen  in  the  shops  ;. 
porcelains  from  the  finest  shapes,  decorated  in  gold,  silver,  and 
colors,  to  the  grotesque  white  lions,  dragons,  dogs,  and  apes  ;. 
images  of  gods  and  tablets,  gilt,  lacquered,  and  plain,  are 
side  by  side  with  fine  carvings  and  sculptures.  Rich  furniture 
in  polished  iron-wood,  teak  and  cherry,  wonderfully  carved,, 
is  enriched  with  colored  marble  panels,  showing  landscape 
or  cloud  eff^ects  ;  lantern  shops,  where  globular,  cylindrical,, 
and  square  lanterns,  in  paper,  silk,  glass,  and  metal,  old  and 
new,  oddly  designed  and  decorated,  hang  side  by  side,  show 


Shanghai,   China  299 

their  impossible  people,  dragons,  birds,  and  landscapes.  If 
there  is  one  art  the  Chinaman  is  deficient  in,  it  is  that  of 
giving  the  relative  proportions  in  his  drawings  and  paintings, 
and  nowhere  is  this  more  manifest  than  on  his  lanterns. 

We  see  the  dingv  little  holes  of  cook-shops,  with  their 
seething,  black  furnaces,  and  steaming  fats,  broths,  stews^ 
and  fries.  We  see  great  cakes  of  quivering  jelly,  white  or 
scarlet  or  brown  ;  baked  and  crispy  ducks,  and  the  tempting 
porker ;  the  hind  quarter  of  a  choice  cur,  with  feet  left  on 
as  a  guarantee  of  genuineness  ;  stewed  fish  and  shark's  fins  j 
the  head  of  a  sea  monster  in  eels ;  cabbage  leaves  and 
boiled  rice,  —  and  a  hundred  other  similar  delicacies  that 
make  up  the  menu  of  the  epicure  of  the  Celestial  Empire. 

Fish,  great  and  small,  dried  and  smoked  and  fresh  (the  lat- 
ter swimming  about  in  shallow  tubs  to  prove  their  freshness)^ 
crabs  and  crawfish,  lobsters  and  diminutive,  coppery  oysters^ 
gold  and  silver  fish,  eels,  and  scores  of  others,  from  the  shark 
to  the  minnow,  may  be  seen  in  the  tubs  and  on  the  stands. 
When  a  purchaser  comes  along,  if  needs  be,  a  piece  is 
hacked  out  and  sold,  and  the  poor  quivering  fish  is  thrown 
back  into  its  tub  to  await  the  next  purchaser. 

Olive,  nut,  and  tea  oils,  of  all  grades,  are  seen  in  curious 
wicker  baskets,  covered  with  oiled  paper. 

The  apothecary's  shop  has  its  mysterious  collections  of 
bulbs  and  roots,  blisters  and  plasters,  and  the  thousand 
drugs  and  compounds,  including  charms,  for  which  these 
people  are  as  eager  as  many  in  more  favored  lands. 

In  the  gay  little  tea-shops  one  may  regale  himself  with  a 
cup  of  the  beverage,  and  indulge  in  a  sweetcake  which 
resembles  chocolate,  with  little  blocks  of  cocoanut  scattered 
through  it,  but  which  upon  investigation  proves  to  be  brown- 
sugar  rice-cake,  with  chunks  of  pork  fat. 

The  Chinese  charity  hospital  is  the  cleanest  establish- 
ment that  I  have  ever  seen  in  a  native  city.  The  buildings 
are  dingy  from   age,  but   are   as   neat  and  clean  as  could  be 


300    An  American   Cruiser  in  the  East 

desired.  We  saw  many  patients  who  were  suffering  from 
wasting  lung  troubles,  others  with  the  dread  elephantiasis, 
some  bad  cases  of  rheumatism,  and  some  who  were  evidently 
in  the  last  stages  of  consumption.  We  have  been  led  to  be- 
lieve that  the  Chinese  have  no  charities  such  as  we  have, 
but  this  is  a  mistake.  This  one,  and  another  that  1  shall 
mention  further  on,  are  as  noble  as  any  in  Christian  lands, 
and  the  people  who  conceived  of  them  and  support  them 
deserve  honor  and  credit  for  their  work,  whether  it  be  done 
under  the  cross  or  under  the  lotus. 

The  Mandarins'  tea-garden  and  club-house  deserve  some 
mention.  The  club-house  is  a  fine  structure  in  drab 
brick,  with  massive  tiled  roof,  where  porcelain  dragons, 
fish,  and  birds  seem  to  be  making  fantastic  gyrations  through 
the  masses  of  lotus  and  peony  blossoms.  The  mandarins 
meet  here  to  discuss  politics  and  the  news,  while  indulging 
in  the  toothsome  dainties  of  a  Chinese  menu  amidst  the 
dingy   scarlet   hangings. 

The  Jeweller's  Guild  is  a  busy  mart  where  matrons  and 
maidens  love  to  gaze  at  the  beautiful  wares  in  jade,  gold, 
and  silver.  Bracelets,  pins,  rings,  chains,  charms,  beads, 
and  many  quaint  and  odd  shapes  that  please  the  natixe 
fancy  are  displayed  in   profusion. 

Crossing  the  winding  sheet  of  water  upon  a  zigzag 
bridge  that  could  only  have  been  designed  by  a  Chinaman, 
we  reach  a  little  rocky  island  and  the  great  temple.  The 
temple  is  a  massive  structure  in  dingy  scarlet  and  gilt,  with 
tiled  roof,  covered  with  the  accumulated  dust  of  years. 
Passing  the  hideous  guardians  at  the  entrance,  we  enter  the 
temple  and  behold  many  shrines  and  deities.  The  general 
appearance  was  more  that  of  a  junk-shop,  or  cheap  museum, 
than  of  a  dignified  temple.  Two  dressed  dolls  —  repre- 
senting a  mother  and  daughter  who  were  ill,  and  for  whose 
recovery  prayers  were  being  said — were  placed  under  a 
great    bell.      At    intervals,  a  young    priest,  to   attract    the- 


Shanghai,   China  301 

attention  of  the  god,  tolled  the  bell  by  striking  its  side  with 
a  beam  of  wood.  Then  he  clapped  his  hands  together,  and 
whispered  the  prayer  in  behalf  of  the  sick.  One  corner  of 
the  temple  has  the  appearance  of  an  undertaker's  establish- 
ment, as  it  is  piled  up  with  coffins,  large  and  small,  which 
are  supplied  to  the  poor  by  a  guild  of  the  temple  ;  and  this 
I  consider  the  second  of  their  noble  charities. 

A  motley  crowd  loiter  about  the  outside  of  the  temple. 
Old  women  mend  rents  and  patch  torn  and  worn  clothing, 
while  the  owners  stand  or  sit  by  until  the  work  is  finished  ; 
jugglers  twirl  a  dinner-plate  on  the  end  of  a  bamboo  stick, 
or  pull  yards  of  colored  ribbons  from  their  hungry  throats ; 
barbers  shave  a  pate  or  fix  a  queue ;  dentists,  with  goggles 
upon  their  noses,  stand  ready  to  extract  a  molar,  or  to  apply 
the  soothing  drops  ;  fortune-tellers  show  their  cage  of  little 
birds,  one  of  whom  selects  a  card  from  which  the  filthy 
owner  will  read  your  fortune ;  around  the  corner  a  beggarly 
crowd  may  be  seen,  intently  bent  upon  the  result  of  their 
chance  at  "  fan-tan ;  "  the  beggar,  wrapped  in  a  piece  of 
soiled  matting,  which  is  too  small  to  hide  his  festering  sores, 
thrusts  himself  through  the  crowd,  and  importunes  for 
alms. 

The  little  tea-gardens  behind  old  Shanghai  produce  some 
very  fine  tea,  and  we  were  interested  in  visiting  them,  al- 
though the  "  last  picking "  had  been  done  more  than  a 
month  before  our  arrival.  The  tea  plant  yields  a  crop  after 
its  third  year,  and  this  is  gathered  in  April,  June,  and  Sep- 
tember. The  pickers,  usually  women  and  children,  must 
have  clean  hands  when  they  begin  the  work,  and  great  care 
in  the  handling  is  required  at  every  stage.  The  medium- 
sized  leaves  are  the  most  desirable,  the  larger  leaves  being 
left  upon  the  plant  to  gather  moisture  for  its  sustenance. 
Each  leaf  is  picked  separately  and  placed  in  a  large  basket, 
which,  when  filled,  is  slung  on  the  end  of  a  bamboo  pole^ 
and   carried   across  the  shoulder. 


302    An  American   Cruiser  in  the  East 

The  leaves  are  spread  in  a  clean  place  in  the  air  to  dry, 
after  which  they  are  trodden  upon  to  drive  out  any  moist- 
ure that  may  remain.  They  are  then  heaped  together  and 
covered  over  for  the  night,  during  which  they  become 
"  heated,"  foment,  change  color  from  green  to  brown,  and 
become  fragrant.  They  are  then  crumpled  and  twisted  by 
being  lightly  rubbed  between  the  palms  of  the  hands,  when 
they  are  again  put  in  the  sun,  or,  if  the  weather  is  rainy, 
they  are  arranged  in  a  sieve  and  placed  over  a  grate  of  hot 
coals,  where  they  are  stirred  about  with  a  stick  until  they 
have  all  been  heated  alike.  They  are  then  sold  to  the  tea 
merchant,  who  has  them  carefully  sorted  by  women  and 
children,  who  separate  the  bad  leaves  and  stems  from  the 
good  ones.  The  tea  is  scented  and  flavored  for  its  par- 
ticular standard  or  market,  after  which  eighteen  or  twenty 
handfuls  are  placed  in  a  shallow  copper  bowl,  over  a  char- 
coal furnace.  The  leaves  are  moved  about  in  this  bowl 
until  the  required  form  and  color  is  obtained,  when  they  are 
placed  in  carefully  prepared,  sheet-lead,  paper-lined  boxes, 
which  are  sealed  up  to  exclude  the  air  and  moisture. 

The  box  is  weighed,  stamped,  and  marked.  Samples 
have  been  retained,  and  the  tea  merchant  always  tastes  and 
tests  the  tea  before  buying  or  selling.  The  tea  is  hurried 
off  to  market,  where  the  first  or  new  crop  always  brings 
the  highest  price. 

The  methods  of  the  Chinese  artisans  are  very  curious; 
for  instance,  they  do  not  use  work-benches.  The  material 
to  be  worked  upon  is  placed  on  the  floor,  or  ground,  and  is 
held  in  place  with  the  naked  feet,  while  the  workmen  squat 
or  climb  all  over  it  in  performing  the  required  operations. 
In  sawing  and  planing  they  always  cut  on  the  pull,  never 
on  the  push.  If  thev  are  turning  metal  or  wood,  the  lathe 
is  nearly  always  swung  in  one  direction  for  part  of  a  revo- 
lution, and  then  in  the  other.  A  sculptor  or  carver  will 
place  his  block  ot  stone  or  wood   upon  the  floor,  and  squat 


Shanghai,   China 


303 


and  work  around  it,  never  even  dreaming  of  a  bench  ;  and 
yet  these  people  use  chairs,  tables,  cabinets,  and  bedsteads, 
—  some  of  their  furniture  being  very  elaborate. 

The  city  of  Shanghai  is  located  on  a  low,  alluvial  plain, 
which  is  intersected  by  numerous  creeks  and  canals  that 
surround  the  walls,  and  enter  the  city  from  many  directions. 
The  river,  in  front  of  the  foreign  settlement,  is  filled  with 
steamers  and  sailing  vessels  from  every  part  of  the  world,  and, 


A  Road  in  Shanghai,  China. 


lower  down,  the  Chinese  government  has  an  extensive 
arsenal,  where  war  vessels  of  the  largest  tonnage  are  built 
and   fitted  out. 

The  municipal  government  of  the  foreign  settlements  is 
vested  in  a  council,  whose  members  are  elected  annually, 
and  have  charge  of  the  local  government  and  police,  and 
of  public  improvements  and  repairs,  the  cost  of  which  is 
raised  by  taxation.  The  settlements  have  many  fine 
churches,   missions,  and  schools. 


304     An  American   Cruiser  in   the  East 

The  Tae-ping  rebels  held  possession  of  the  city  and 
settlements  from  1853  '°  ^^55i  during  which  time  its  com- 
merce was  nearly  ruined,  but  it  has  since  grown  to  vast  pro- 
portions. The  city  is  a  very  important  entrepot  for  goods 
passing  into  the  interior  of  China,  and  for  imports  and  ex- 
ports,  from  and   to   foreign   countries. 

The  imports  of  foreign  goods  amount  to  $110,000,000, 
and  of  native  products  fully  ^70,000,000  per  annum.  The 
principal  articles  of  import  are  opium,  cotton,  woollen 
goods,  and  metals.  The  exports  are  tea  and  silk.  Large 
quantities  of  opium  are  distributed  to  other  parts  of  the 
country. 


Water-Front,  Ningpo,  China. 


CHAPTER   XVIII 


NINGPO,    CHINA 


COMING  in  from  the  sea  on  a  cold,  frosty  morning, 
after  contending  with  a  fresh  monsoon,  one  is  pre- 
pared to  enjoy  the  novel  and  beautiful  scenes  of  the  Ningpo 
River.  The  old  Chinese  fort  on  the  point,  with  its  great 
dragon-banner :  the  rice-tields,  glistenino;  like  diamonds  as 
the  new-made  ice  sparkles  in  the  sunshine;  the  quaint  vil- 
lages, with  their  rude  cabins  and  picturesque  inhabitants, 
and  the  thousands  of  toilers,  moving  over  the  great  plains  ; 
the  double-eved  junks,  thronging  the  banks  of  swift-run- 
ning, muddv  waters  -,  the  strange  town  of  tent-shaped  ice- 
houses on  the  one  bank ;  the  thousands  of  graves  scattered 
over  the  other,  —  all  form  the  foreground  of  the   picture, 

20 


306      An   American   Cruiser  in   the   East 

and  the  vision  ends  in  the  distant  blue-black  line  that  indi- 
cates the  mountain's  ranp;e.  Throuii;h  a  dozen  miles  of  such 
scenes  we  pass,  and  are  opposite  Ningpo  when  we  drop 
our  anchors  in  muddy  waters,  where  junks  are  crowded 
about  us. 

Ningpo  is  in  the  province  of  Chekiang,  on  the  Yuna 
Ri\'er,  at  its  junction  with  another  swift-running  stream, 
in  latitude  29°  55'  north,  and  longitude  121°  22'  east. 
Its  port  includes  the  citv  of  Ningpo,  the  Chusan  group 
of  islands,  and  the  cities  of  Tsike,  Funghai,  Chinhai, 
and  Tsianghan.  The  immediate  surrounding  country  is 
a  low,  flat,  alluvial  soil,  of  remarkable  fertility,  cut  up 
bv  a  net-work  of  rivers  and  canals  that  are  covered 
with  junks.  The  river-front  is  lined  by  junks,  unload- 
ing and  loading  their  rich  cargoes  of  silks,  tea,  oils,  fish, 
and  rice. 

The  opposite  shore,  as  far  back  as  the  eye  can  reach, 
is  built  up  with  tent-shaped  straw  ice-houses,  each  house 
about  twenty-five  feet  high,  thirty  feet  long,  and  thirtv  feet 
wide  at  the  base,  and  tapering  to  a  pointed  top.  Early 
every  morning  thousands  of  men,  women,  and  children  may 
be  seen  gathering  the  ice,  and  packing  it  within  these 
straw  tents. 

The  whole  plain  has  the  appearance  of  a  great  Indian 
town. 

Deep-sea  fishing  is  one  of  the  principal  industries  of 
Ningpo.  The  venturesome  people  of  this  place  often 
go  a  hundred  miles,  or  more,  upon  the  sea,  to  reach 
a  fa\'orite  fishing-bank.  The  junks  are  laden  with  ice, 
and  the  fish  are  packed  in  it  until  the  return.  Hundreds 
of  junks  and  thousands  of  people  are  engaged  in  this 
occupation. 

The  citv  walls,  about  five  miles  in  circumference,  are 
about  twenty  feet  high  and  are  fifteen  feet  wide  at  the  top. 
There  are  six  double  gates,  and   a   moat  nearly  surrounds 


Ningpo,    China 


307 


the  walls.  The  moat  communicates  with  canals  which 
extend  from  the  surrounding  country  into  the  citv,  where 
they  form  two  lakes,  —  Sun  Lake  and  Moon  Lake.  Sun 
Lake  contains  a  sacred  island,  which  is  reached  bv  several 
of  those  delicate  aerial  stone  bridges,  for  which  this  por- 
tion of  China  is  celebrated.  The  temples  upon  this  island 
are  the  most  extensive  and  beautiful  to  be  found  in  China, 
the  finest  of  them  being-  dedicated  to  the  Oueen  of  Heaven. 


A  Corner  (jf  the  Cnv  Wall,  Ningpo,  China. 

All  fishermen,  women,  and  girls  believe  themselves  to  be 
under  her  special  protection,  and  the  people  of  Fuhkin  con- 
sider her  their  guardian  and  patron,  as  she  is  the  deified 
daughter  of  a  fisherman  of  that  place.  No  labor  or  expense 
has  been  spared  in  honoring  the  goddess,  the  finest  orna- 
mental stonework,  the  richest  wood-carvings,  and  gold, 
silver,  and  colors,  in  barbaric  splendor  and  profusion,  com- 
pose and  adorn  her  temple.  The  other  temples,  in  honor 
of  titular  gods,  are  fine  specimens  of  Chinese  architec- 
ture, decoration,  and  ornamentation,  but   they  pale  in  com- 


308      An   American   Cruiser  in   the  East 

parison   with    the    magnificence  of   that    to  the  Oueen   of 
Heaven. 

Ningpo  is  ornamented  with  a  seven-storied  hexagonal 
pagoda,  —  "  the  heaven-sent  pagoda,"  —  one  hundred  and 
sixty  feet  in  height.  The  outer  covering  has  crumbled 
away,  leaving  the  rough  brickwork  exposed.  The  build- 
ino-  leans  a  little  like  the  tower  of  Pisa,  and  old  trees  and 
bushes  are  growing  from  its  corners,  but  it  is  an  interesting 
and  impressive  monument  of  the  past.  Its  top  is  reached 
bv  flights  of  rickety  old  wooden  stairs  on  the  inside.  The 
\'iew  from  the  top  of  this  old  pagoda  well  repays  one  tor 
the  risky  climb.  The  homes  of  two  millions  of  human 
beings,  with  their  hopes  and  fears,  joys  and  sorrows,  lite 
and  death,  lie  before  us.  Beyond  the  miles  of  tiled  roofs, 
serpent-like  streams  meander  through  the  great  muddy 
plains,  which  reach  to  the  foot  of  the  mountains,  and  vil- 
lages dot  the  shores,  between  which  hundreds  of  junks  sail 
on  their  busy  way.  At  the  foot  of  the  old  pagoda  stairs  is 
a  shrine  containing  eight  gods,  and  a  priest  sees  that  the 
joss-sticks  and  little  lamp  are  kept  burning. 

The  streets  of  Ningpo  are  well  paved,  and  are  wider 
than  those  of  any  other  Chinese  city  that  I  have  visited. 
The  shops  are  bright  and  gay  with  native  goods,  but  all 
that  a  foreigner  is  tempted  to  purchase  are  the  exquisite 
wood-carvings,  —  statuettes  of  natives,  and  beautitully 
carved  cabinets  and  frames,  which  are  really  worth  the 
care  required  to  bring   them   home. 

The  Ningpo  River  is  crossed  by  a  pontoon  bridge  which 
is  more  than  six  hundred  feet  long,  and  is  lined  on  both 
sides  with  native  shops  and  booths.  It  is  a  gay  promenade 
where  all  phases  of  Chinese  outdoor  life  may  be  seen. 
Behind  the  end  of  this  bridge  stands  an  old  fort,  dating 
from  the  days  of  the  occupation,  and  near  it  is  a  monu- 
ment  which    commemorates   the   event. 

Outside  of  the  city  are  thousands  of  burial-places.     Some' 


Ningpo,   China 


309 


are  handsome  stone  and  brick  vaults,  or  mounds  of  earth 
as  high  as  one's  head.  In  others,  the  coffin  is  placed  upon 
the  ground  and  covered  with  matting,  while  in  quite  a 
number  of  instances  the  corpse  is  tied  up  in  a  piece  of 
matting,  and  lies  on  the  ground,  exposed  to  the  heat,  the 
cold,  and  the  storms.  As  may  be  supposed,  all  classes  are 
represented   here,  the  rich,  the   middle  class,  and   the   poor, 


The  Pontoon  Bridge,  Ningi-u,  China. 


and   the    poor   beggar  lies   unburied,  almost   uncovered,  in 
death. 

Thousands  of  men,  women,  and  children  crowd  back 
and  forth  over  the  pontoon  bridge  and  among  the  shops. 
Pedlers,  with  great  packs  upon  their  backs,  call  out  their 
wares  or  spread  them  upon  the  walks  for  inspection.  We 
see  little  shops  where  rice,  fruit,  and  soups  are  sold,  their 
owners  shivering  behind  the  tiny  stoves  while  awaiting  a 
customer.  Horses,  wheelbarrows,  and  sedan  chairs  add  to 
the  confusion,  and  the  place  is  alive  with  barter  and  trade. 


3 1  o      An   American    Cruiser   in   the   East 

The  blacksmith  squats  upon  the  ground  and  pulls  his 
bellows  and  warms  himself  at  his  curious  forge;  the  barber's 
tinkling  bell  announces  that  he  is  ready  to  shave  a  head, 
dress  a  queue,  or  put  the  last  delicate  touch  upon  the  eyebrows 
of  a  dude  ;  an  old  cobbler  is  mending  shoes  ;  and  near  by  a 
woman  is  patching  or  mending  a  rent  in  an  old  garment ; 
a  crowd  of  youngsters  are  enjoying  themselves  with  shuttle- 
cock, striking  with  their  heads,  elbows,  and  heels  ;  and  the 
old  men  indulge  in  flying  great  kites  made  in  forms  of 
beasts  and   birds  and  gods. 

The  Chinese  have  some  curious  customs.  Soon  after 
a  child  is  born,  its  wrists  are  decorated  with  scarlet  cords  to 
which  charms  are  attached.  These  are  expected  to  ward 
off  the  ills  to  which  infantile  lite  is  exposed,  as  well  as  to 
keep  off  evil  spirits.  When  the  child  is  one  month  old,  a 
barber,  dressed  in  red,  the  religious  color,  shaves  all  the 
hair  from  its  head  except  one  little  tuft,  which  is  left  at 
the  crown  as  a  foundation  tor  the  queue.  A  boy  must  be 
shaved  before  the  ancestral  tables,  and  a  girl  before  the 
image  of  the  goddess  of  children.  In  either  case,  thank- 
offerings  are  presented  to  the  goddess,  and  friends  send  gifts 
of  eggs,  cakes,  and  sweets  to  the  baby.  These  presents 
are  done  up   in   red   paper  or   silk. 

The  ancestral  tablet  is  a  small  monumental  slab  of  wood 
or  stone,  which  stands  for  the  dead  ancestor.  Sometimes 
several  generations  are  represented  on  one  slab  by  names, 
dates,  and  inscriptions.  These  tablets  are  similar  to  a  dimin- 
utive tombstone,  and  are  generally  lacquered  in  black  and 
decorated  with  gilt  characters.  The  spirit  of  the  dead  is 
supposed  to  enter  the  tablet,  and  the  more  frequentlv  it  is 
worshipped,  the  better  the  spirit  is  pleased.  After  the  fifth 
generation,  the  spirit  is  supposed  to  have  passed  into  another 
body,  and  is  no  longer  worshipped. 

Three  moons  after  the  shavino-  of  an  infant,  the  goddess 
is  thanked  and   in\oked  to  make  the  child  grow  up  strong 


Ningpo,   China  3 1  3 

and  good.  On  its  first  birthday,  the  goddess  is  again  wor- 
shipped, and  thank-ofterings  are  made  to  her;  while  the 
child  is  dressed  in  gay  clothing,  and  pencils,  tools,  books, 
and  various  other  articles  are  placed  before  it.  All  the 
members  of  the  family  and  friends  stand  around  in  expect- 
ancy, for  whatever  is  first  taken  into  the  tiny  hand  is 
believed  to  presage  its  future  occupation.  From  this  time 
on  the  child  is  taught  to  worship  the  gods,  to  bow  before 
them,  and  to  raise  his  hands  when  incense  and  candles  are 
burned   in   their  honor. 

The  boys  wear  a  tuft  of  hair  until  the  tenth  year,  when 
the  queue  is  trained.  Chinese  boys  are  experts  at  top-spin- 
ning, seesaw,  and  quoits,  and  no  boys  enjoy  the  sports  with 
more  zest ;  but  in  all  their  play  there  seems  to  be  an  under- 
lying vein  of  gravity  and  soberness  that  is  not  often  seen 
among  the  young  of  any  other  country.  At  the  sixteenth 
year  children  leave  childhood  behind  them.  Chinese  girls 
are  instructed  by  tutors,  as  there  are  no  native  schools  for 
them,  but  native  schools  for  boys  are  to  be  found  all  over 
the  country. 

The  schoolmasters  are  very  important  personages. 
Parents  take  great  interest  in  them,  and  are  always  on 
the  lookout  for  the  best.  The  master  must  not  only  know 
the  doctrines  of  the  ancient  sages,  but  he  must  know  how 
to  teach.  When  a  particular  school  has  been  settled  upon 
for  the  boy,  the  schoolmaster  is  invited  to  a  feast  specially 
prepared  for  him.  A  fortune-teller  decides  upon  a  lucky 
day  for  the  boy  to  enter  school ;  and  on  entering  the  boy 
first  worships  at  the  shrine  of  Confucius,  salutes  his  teacher 
respectfully,  receives  the  teacher's  instructions,  and  goes  to 
his  desk.  Each  boy  has  a  desk  so  arranged  that  he  cannot 
speak  to  the  boy  in  the  next  desk,  and  they  are  not  per- 
mitted to  talk  in  school.  In  reciting  their  lessons,  pupils 
are  required  to  stand  with  their  backs  to  the  teacher.  A 
Chinese   school,  during    study   hours,  is  a  very  noisy    place. 


314      An   American   Cruiser  in   the   East 

as  the  lessons  are  learned  by  being  repeated  in  a  sing-song 
manner,  while  the  students  sway  their  heads  from  side  to 
side. 

Schools  are  always  closed  on  the  anniversary  of  the  death 
of  Confucius,  and  for  about  ten  days  at  the  Chinese  New 
Year,  and  the  pupils  are  excused  to  keep  family  festivals, 
—  birthdays  of  ancestors,  —  and  to  worship  at  tablets  and 
at  tombs. 

Schoolmasters  are  men  of  literary  honors  who  have  a 
fondness  for  teaching.  The  incentive  to  study  is  the  hope 
of  taking  literary  honors,  which  are  the  only  means  of 
advancement.  Even  a  person  in  the  lowest  walks  of  life, 
taking  these  honors,  would  rank  as  a  gentleman,  and  be 
eligible  to  the  highest  place  in  the  gift  of  the  government. 

The  school  punishments  are  standing  with  face  to  the 
wall  and  repeating  some  lesson  or  classic.  For  extreme 
cases,  the  culprit  is  beaten  with  the  "  broom,"  which  means 
bad  luck,  and  is  considered  the  worst  punishment  the  master 
can  inflict.  The  responsibility  of  the  teacher  never  ends ; 
if  the  boy  in  after-life  should  commit  some  great  crime, — 
kill  his  parents,  for  instance,  —  the  teacher  would  be  liable 
to  be  executed  for  the  manner  in  which  he  taught  the 
child. 

Chinese   Homes 

The  houses  of  the  wealthy  are  built  of  drab-colored 
bricks,  with  heavy  stone  trimmings  about  the  openings, 
and  with  tiled  roofs,  more  or  less  ornamented,  according  to 
taste.  They  are  composed  of  a  number  of  large  rooms, 
generally  on  one  floor.  In  the  crowded  cities,  some  houses 
are  two  stories  in  height,  but  the  Chinese  think  it  is  un- 
lucky to  live  above  the  ground.  The  houses  are  very 
roomy,  for  it  is  customary  to  have  several  branches  of  the 
family  and  the  servants  under  one  roof.  There  are  always 
three  entrances   to  a  Chinese   house.      The   principal   door, 


Ningpo,    China  3  i  5 

in  the  centre  of  the  house,  opens  into  a  large  reception- 
room,  in  which  visitors  are  received.  The  floors  are  of 
polished  woods,  or  concrete,  uncovered  by  rug  or  carpet, 
and  the  walls  are  frequently  hung  with  silk  or  satin  scrolls, 
beautifully  decorated  with  paintings,  or  embroideries,  or 
inscribed  with  some  motto  from  the  sages.  Beautiful  lan- 
terns hang  from  the  ceiling,  suspended  by  silken  cord 
or  finely  wrought  chains.  Handsomely  carved,  straight- 
backed  chairs,  of  highly  polished  wood,  are  ranged  against 
the  walls,  while  tables,  screens,  and  cabinets,  bearing  old 
porcelains,  marbles,  and  bronze  ornaments  and  fans,  are  in 
profusion. 

At  the  end  of  the  room,  usually  facing  the  entrance,  the 
altar  or  shrine  of  household  gods  and  the  ancestral  tablets 
are  placed,  upon  which  incense-sticks  and  candles  are  kept 
burning,  and  offerings  of  flowers  or  meats  are  always  to  be 
found.  The  living  room  is  similar  to  the  reception-room, 
except  that  it  has  a  large  round-top  table  in  its  centre.  All 
the  inmates  and  guests  of  the  house  gather  around  this  table 
at  meal-time,  when  the  viands  —  soups,  broths,  stews, 
bakes,  and  sweets  —  are  served  in  course,  each  person 
helping  himself  with  spoon  or  chopsticks  as  best  serves 
his   purpose. 

The  kitchen,  "  the  realm  of  mystery,"  is  presided  over 
by  a  man,  or  "  chef,"  who  is  well  skilled  in  the  Chinese 
culinary  art,  from  bird's-nest  and  shark's-fin  soups  to  melon 
seeds,  and  this  domain  is  a  wonderful,  dingy  place.  One 
side  of  the  kitchen  contains  a  large  brick  furnace,  with 
great  bowl-shaped  pans  fixed  into  the  top  of  it,  the  fire 
impinging  upon  the  under  sides  of  the  pans.  One  of  these 
is  sacred  to  the  rice;  the  others  (there  may  be  several,  de- 
pending upon  the  size  of  the  establishment)  are  for  gen- 
eral uses.  The  walls  are  covered  with  a  multitude  of  pots, 
pans,  kettles,  boxes,  jars,  and  crocks,  all  for  the  use  of  the 
"mysterious   king  of  the   kitchen,"   who   is  as  much  of  a 


3 1 6      An   American   Cruiser   in   the   East 


tyrant  in  China  as  his  namesake  is  in  America.  Abo\'e  all 
this,  high  up  on  the  kitchen  wall,  safely  placed  in  a  little 
shrine,  regaled  by  the  savory  odors  and  content  with  a 
burning  incense-stick,  sits  the  little  kitchen  god,  watching 
over  the   honesty  of  the   cook  ;   but   the   cook   can   get   his 

re\  enge  here  as  well  as 
elsewhere.  The  god  is 
supposed  to  go  "top-side" 
for  about  ten  days  in  every 
year,  to  make  his  report, 
and  pay  his  respects  to  the 
gods  and  goddesses,  and 
during  his  absence  the  cook 
can  cheat  and  steal  if  he 
has   the   inclination. 

Most  houses  have 
beautiful  gardens,  and 
many  have  extensive 
porches,  where  the  adults 
of  the  family  enjoy  the 
beauties  of  the  garden  while 
indulging  in  the  evening 
smoke.  Nearly  all  China- 
men, and  many  ladies, 
smoke  a  mild  tobacco,  in 
tiny  metal  bowls  with  bam- 
boo stems,  or  in  a  clumsy 
white  metal  affair. 
The  rich  gentlemen  are  gorgeous  in  blue  silk  gowns 
which  reach  to  the  shoe-tops,  gay  silk  breeches  of  bro- 
caded silk,  snow-white  leggins,  elegant  embroidered  shoes, 
and  dark  silk  cap,  with  scarlet  or  blue  button.  Protruding 
beyond  their  flowing  sleeves  are  rows  of  claw-like  nails, 
polished  in  the  highest  style  of  the  manicure's  art,  and  their 
wrists  are  encircled  by  massive  bracelets  of  the  favorite  jade. 


NiNGPO  Chinaman. 


Ningpo,    China  317 

As  a  rule,  the  Chinese  appear  to  be  a  well-to-do  people  ; 
but  though  some  of  them  are  very  rich,  many  are  very  poor, 
and  when  poor  no  people  on  the  face  of  the  earth  are  so 
badly  oft.  I  ha\'e  seen  many  who  had  nothing  in  the 
world,  not  even  a  rag  between  their  bodies  and  the  scorch- 
ing sun,  or  the  wintry  blast.  In  this  nude  condition,  they 
hang  about  the  suburbs  of  the  city,  with  great,  hungry, 
straining  eyes,  and  ferociously  snatch  up  any  little  broken 
stuff  that  may  support  their  hopeless  existence.  Thev  roll 
in  the  mud  to  get  its  covering  for  warmth,  and  crawl  along- 
side of  an  old  broken  tomb  to  sleep.  Hundreds  of  thou- 
sands of  the  people  are  actually  crowded  off  the  land,  and 
have  their  homes  in  sampans  and  junks.  Many  were  born, 
reared,  and  expect  to  end  their  days  and  be  buried  from 
such  homes. 

A  great  many  Chinese  smoke  opium,  and  the  habit  is  a 
curse  to  the  people.  The  "  dens  "  where  opium  is  sold 
and  used  are  generally  made  as  attractive  as  possible  for 
the  native,  although  I  have  seen  many  noisome,  vile  places 
of  the  sort.  In  either  case,  high  or  low,  the  victim  resorts 
to  the  den,  and,  having  made  himself  comfortable  upon  a 
low  couch,  places  a  tiny  ball  of  opium  in  the  bowl  of  his 
pipe,  which  he  holds  over  the  flame  of  a  lamp  until  it  be- 
comes ignited.  Reclining  upon  the  couch,  he  inhales  the 
insidious  druo;  until  overcome  bv  the  effects,  and  given  up 
to  dreams  and  visions.  The  victim  of  this  habit  soon  loses 
his  ability  for  business  and  his  appetite  for  food.  He  can- 
not sleep,  and  he  looks  haggard  and  miserable. 

In  our  trips  through  the  city  we  saw  scores  of  unburied 
bodies  placed  against  the  inside  of  the  city  wall,  and  on  the 
roof  of  a  stone  vault  there  were  three  little  bundles  of  straw 
matting,  —  the  corpses  of  infants  whose  parents  were  too 
poor  to  give  them  burial.  Three  little  bundles  are  as 
many  as  can  lie  on  the  top  of  the  wall.  When  another  is 
to  be  placed  there,  the  inside  one   is  pushed   into  the  vault 


3 1 8      An   American   Cruiser  in   the   East 

to  make  place  for  the  last  comer,  and  so  it  goes,  until  they 
all  reach  the  quicklime  and  are  consumed.  A  little  coffin 
can  be  purchased  for  less  than  twenty-tive  cents,  but  there 
are  thousands  who  never  own  such  a  sum. 

Notwithstanding  this  poverty,  the  shops  and  rivers  are 
replete  with  evidences  of  the  general  prosperity.  Tea  is 
successfully  cultivated  on  the  hills,  and  many  other  sources 
of  industry  abound.  Two  crops  of  rice  are  produced  each 
year,  and  the  mulberrv  and  the  tallow  tree  thrive.  Quail, 
wild  ducks,  and  snipe  are  plentiful  and  cheap  in  the 
markets. 

The  gods  are  invoked  to  assist  in  the  general  prosperity. 
A  household  shrine,  containing  the  god  of  wealth,  is  placed 
in  everv  shop,  incense-sticks  are  kept  burning  before  it  all 
the  time,  and  the  shopkeeper  frequently  puts  on  his  best 
robes  and  bows  before  the  god,  invoking  prosperity  and 
good  business. 

One  sees  crowds  of  boats  of  all  sizes  and  descriptions. 
There  are  seagoing  junks,  that  trade  with  Japan,  Korea,  or 
in  the  south,  and  the  "  hotel  junks,"  that  have  large,  gaudv 
houses  built  upon  them,  fitted  with  numerous  large  mats 
which  are  used  as  beds.  These  junks  are  brightly  lighted 
bv  handsome  lanterns,  and  are  made  secure  to  the  river's 
bank.  The  native  cities  are  closed  at  nine  every  night,  and 
these  boats  afford  convenient  shelter  for  the  wearv  traveller. 
The  "  flower-boats  "  are  of  similar  size  and  style  as  the 
hotel-boats,  but  they  are  more  elegantly  found  and  deco- 
rated, and  are  used  for  pleasure.  When  a  party  engages  a 
"  flower-boat  "  for  a  trip  up  or  down  the  river,  music  and 
dancing  are  furnished,  and  refreshments  may  be  taken  along 
or  furnished  by  the  owner  of  the  boat. 

Ningpo,  Canton,  Shanghai,  Amoy,  and  Foo-Chow  were 
opened  to  foreign  trade  as  a  result  of  the  opium  war  of 
1 840-1 842,  between  Great  Britain  and  China.  Ningpo 
has  a  very  extensive  coasting  and   inland  trade,  but   foreign 


Ningpo,   China  3  1 9 

trade  has  not  developed,  on  account  of  the  proximity  of 
Shanghai. 

Chinhai,  at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  is  a  port  of  entry. 

The  suburbs  included  in  the  port  of  Ningpo  are  King- 
tung,  a  walled  town,  containing  about  thirty  thousand  in- 
habitants, situated  about  ten  miles  to  the  eastward  of 
Chinhai,  and  the  nearest  town  to  the  Chusan  archipelago, 
and  Funghai,  the  district  citv  of  the  island  of  Chusan,  which 
is  twenty  miles  long  and  about  fifty-one  miles  in  girth.  It 
is  mountainous,  wMth  valleys  in  a  high  state  of  cultivation, 
and  has  an  excellent  harbor.  Funghai  was  occupied  for 
several  years  after  1841,  by  the  British,  and  was  again  oc- 
cupied by  the  allied  forces  in  i860. 

The  population  of  Ningpo  is  about  five  hundred  thousand 
natives,  and  about  one  hundred  foreigners  who  are  in  the 
foreign  Consular  or  in  the  Chinese  Customs  service.  The 
population  of  the  tributary  plain  is  about  two  millions. 


CHAPTER    XIX 

FORMOSA 

THE  island  of  Formosa,  Tai-wan  of  the  Chinese,  is 
about  ninety  miles  off  the  coast  of  China,  from 
which  it  is  separated  by  the  Strait  of  Fo-kien,  and  it  lies 
between  Nan-hai  and  Tong-hai,  the  Southern  and  the 
Eastern  seas.  It  extends  from  21°  54'  to  25°  19'  of 
north  latitude  and  121°  15'  to  122°  5'  of  east  longitude, 
and  contains  very  nearly  15,000  square  miles.  It  shelters 
the  coast  from  Amoy  to  the  Yellow  Sea,  by  warding  off 
the  typhoons. 

The  Tan-shan  Mountains  extend  the  whole  length  of 
the  island  from  north  to  south,  and  have  several  lofty 
peaks  and  volcanoes.  Me-kang-shang,  or  "  wooded  moun- 
tain," is  over  12,000  feet  high,  Shan-chas-shan,  or  Mount 
Sylvia,  is  about  11,000,  and  Dodd's  Range  is  fully  11,000 
feet  in  height.  The  mountain  range  divides  Formosa  into 
three  natural  divisions,  — the  mountains,  the  western  plains, 
and  the  precipitous  coast. 

The  island  shows  many  evidences  of  volcanic  formation, 
and  is  in  the  curved  line  which  sweeps  along  the  Pacific 
coast  of  North  America,  the  Aleutian  Islands,  Eastern 
Siberia,  the  Kural,  and  the  Japanese  Islands,  through  For- 
mosa and  on  to  the  Philippines.  Ho-san,  or  "  Fire  Moun- 
tain," sends  forth  steam  and  sulphur,  and  the  hot  springs 
of  vapor  and   sulphur  near  Tam-sui   are  famous. 

The  streams  on  the  eastern  side  are  mere  mountain 
torrents  and  cascades,  but  the  western  side  has  several 
rivers,  the  most  important  of  which  is  the  Tam-sui. 


Formosa  323 

The  scenery  is  enchanting,  and  it  so  impressed  the  old 
Spaniards  that,  in  their  deHght,  they  named  it  Isla  Formosa, 
beautiful  island. 

The  vegetation  is  tropical  and  luxurious.  The  moun- 
tains are  covered  with  dense  forests  of  palms,  camphor- 
trees,  and  aloe,  and  beautiful  wild  flowers  are  in  profusion. 
The  climate  is  tempered  bv  the  breezes  from  ocean,  sea, 
and  mountain-top,  and  the  temperature  averages  82"^  Fah. 
in  the  summer  season,  and  about  52''  Fah.  in  the  winter 
months,  while  the  rainfall  is  about  120  inches  each  year. 

Takow,   Formosa 

Takow  is  situated  near  the  southern  end  of  Formosa. 
The  approach  to  its  open  harbor  and  anchorage  there  is 
difficult  for  sailing  vessels  at  all  times,  and  impossible 
during  the  six  months  of  the  monsoon  season.  The  water 
is  deepest  on  the  northern  side,  and  the  harbor  must  be 
approached   from  that  direction. 

The  city  is  built  on  a  point  of  land  which  juts  out  into 
the  harbor,  and  it  presents  the  appearance  of  great  commer- 
cial activity.  From  the  top  of  "  Monkey  Hill,"  above  the 
foreign  residences,  a  beautiful  view  can  be  had  of  the 
surrounding  country  and  the  harbor,  where  hundreds  of 
barelegged  fishermen  haul  their  great  seines,  while  near 
them  the  puffing  exhaust  of  the  steamer's  hoisting-engines 
sends  little  clouds  of  vapor  into  the  air  as  they  whip  their 
cargoes   in  or  out. 

The  country  from  Takow  to  Poabi  (the  nearest  settle- 
ment of  native  aborigines,  whom  the  Chinese  call  Pepo- 
hohans,  or  "strangers  of  the  plains"),  is  very  beautiful, 
being  filled  with  waving  palm-trees,  tall  bamboos,  and  wild 
flowers,  but  one  must  be  always  wide  awake  and  on  the 
lookout  for  snakes  in  this  country.  It  is  very  common  to 
see  the  great   yellowish-green   serpents  wound   around   the 


324      An   American   Cruiser   in   the   East 

limbs  of  overhanging  trees,  or  coiled  up,  or  moving  on 
the  ground.  When  they  stretch  out  their  dreadful  heads, 
and  start  hissing  towards  you,  it  is  well  to  have  a  reliable 
stick  in  hand  to  be  used  promptly.  Some  of  these  crea- 
tures measure  ten  feet  in  length.  They  are  fascinatingly 
beautiful  but  deadly,  and,  when  met,  the  fight  must  be  to 
the  death. 

There  are  many  caves  about  this  country,  but  in  inspect- 
ing them  it  is  necessary  to  remember  the  serpents,  as  these 
are  their  favorite  places  of  resort. 

The  Pepo-hohans  have  been  crowded  back  from  their 
fertile  plains,  —  the  rich  alluvial  lands  that  were  their  an- 
cestral homes, — and  they  are  now  settled  on  the  mountain- 
sides. These  people  are  good  workers,  good  haters,  and 
good  fighters.  They  still  hold  in  loving  remembrance 
traditions  of  the  Dutch,  who  were  once  in  possession  of 
the  land,  and  who  were  kind  to  their  fathers  until  driven 
out   bv  the   Chinese. 

The  native  huts  at  Poabi  are  built  on  terraces  three  or 
four  feet  high,  and  are  very  picturesque.  They  are  made 
of  a  framework  of  bamboo  interlaced  with  reeds  and 
covered  over  with  thick  clav.  A  thatching  of  dried  leaves 
completes  the  roof,  and  a  i'ew  coatings  of  whitewash  gives 
the  house  a  neat,  tidy  appearance.  A  fencing  of  pricklv 
stems  extends  around  these  huts,  throwing  a  shade  over 
them,  and  sjuardino-  the  inmates  against  sudden  attacks 
from  an  enemv.  Manv  of  the  huts  are  built  around  the 
three  sides  of  a  square  lot,  with  an  open  space  in  the  centre 
where  the  family  pass  the  evening  together.  When  it  is 
cool,  a  fire  is  made  in  this  open  space,  and  old  and  young 
assemble  there,  forming  a  circle  on  the  ground.  They 
sit  together  with  arms  crossed,  smoking  tobacco  or  chewing 
the  betel,  and  talking,  while  their  dogs  are  in  an  outer 
circle  surrounding  them.  They  will  often  sing,  but  they 
have   no   musical   instruments  for  accompaniment.      Their 


Formosa 


325 


voices  are  harsh,  unpleasing,  and  discordant,  but  the  scene 
is  enjoyable  because  it  is  novel,  quaint,  and  weird. 

Formosa  has  three  classes  of  inhabitants  :  the  Chinese, 
from  Amoy  and  Swatow  ;  the  subjected  natives,  many  of 
whom  have  intermarried  with  the  Chinese;  and  the  unsub- 
dued aborigines,  who  defy  the  authority  of  China,  and 
carrv  on  wars  whenever  they  have  an  opportunity.  These 
aborigines  are  believed  by  some  to  be  of  iMalay,  by  others, 
of  Japanese  origin.  They  are  divided  into  many  tribes 
and  clans,  and  have  several  dialects.  Some  tribes  have 
women  chieftains,  who  are  said  to  be  bold  fighters.  These 
people  are  of  medium  stature,  broad-chested,  and  muscular. 
They  have  full,  round  foreheads,  which  do  not  recede, 
large  mouths,  broad  noses,  and  beautiful,  full,  black  eyes. 
They  have  remarkably  large  hands  and  feet.  Their 
women  wear  their  hair  in  loose  braids  wound  around  their 
heads  in  turban  fashion.  Their  dress  is  shabby.  When 
near  the  Chinese  they  dress  better,  but  are  less  affable,  — 
they  seem  to  become  shy  and  restless.  Tattooino;  is  uni- 
versally practised  amongst  them.  They  are  thoroughly 
honest ;  and  when  they  die  they  are  buried  in  a  sitting 
position,  similar  to  the  Japanese  method  of  burial.  Their 
furniture  and  utensils  are  all  made  of  bamboo,  —  beds, 
tables,  chairs,  buckets,  jars,  hats,  even  their  paper  and 
pens.  The  women  make  a  fine  cloth  from  hemp,  into 
which  they  weave  colored  threads,  and  produce  ornamental 
effects. 

Wars  are  common,  not  only  with  the  Chinese,  but 
between  native  tribes,  and  the  heads  of  the  slain  are  always 
preserved  as  trophies.  Young  men  and  boys  often  sleep  in 
the  "  skull-chambers,"  in  order  that  they  may  become 
courageous. 

Many  tribes  show  a  considerable  amount  of  skill  in  the 
arts  of  civilization.  The  houses  of  the  village  of  Ka-fri-ang, 
for  instance,  are  built  of  stone,  tiled  with  immense  slabs  of 


326      An  American   Cruiser  in   the  East 

stone,  and  fitted  with  comfortable  sleeping  and  cooking 
arrangements,  and  places  for  storing  materials  of  personal 
and  household  use. 

The  Chinese  portion  of  the  island  is  divided  into  five 
districts,  —  North  Formosa,  Chang-hua,  Ki-ai,  Tai-wan, 
and  Feng-shang. 

There  are  some  very  important  towns  on  the  island. 
Kelung  is  in  the  north,  near  the  mines.  Howeie  has  over 
one  hundred  thousand  inhabitants.  Fwo-tre-tia  is  a  dozen 
miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  Tam-sui  River,  in  the  tea 
district,  and  has  a  population  of  over  thirty  thousand. 
Mengka  is  further  up  the  river,  and  boasts  of  over  forty 
thousand  inhabitants.  Teukchasu,  a  walled  town  in  the 
Tam-sui  district,  contains  a  population  of  fifty  thousand. 
Tai-wan,  the  capital,  which  has  grown  from  the  old  Dutch 
fort  "  Zelandia,"  contains  more  than  one  hundred  thousand, 
and  there  are  many  towns  of  ten  thousand  inhabitants  or 
less ;  while  the  whole  Chinese  territory  is  spotted  with 
villages.  The  entire  population  of  Formosa  is  estimated  at 
two  and  a  half  millions  of  people. 

The  mechanical  force  of  the  elements  is  nowhere  more 
graphically  portrayed  than  on  this  island.  During  the 
rainy  season,  the  waters  rise  and  cover  vast  beds,  open  up 
new  passages  across  the  land,  and  flow  towards  the  eastern 
plain.  Rocky  heights  confine  the  beds  of  the  streams,  and 
the  torrents  carry  great  quantities  of  soil  and  sand,  which 
the  currents  cause  the  sea  to  deposit  along  the  eastern 
coast.  In  this  way,  the  port  of  Thai-ouau  is  disappearing, 
and  that  of  Takow  has  been  formed  further  down  the 
coast.  There  are  no  harbors  on  the  eastern  coast ;  there 
we  find  mountains  and  the  most  beautiful  scenery,  but  the 
west  coast  has  the  fertile  plains  and  the  ports. 

The  soil  in  the  plains,  of  sand  and  rich  alluvial  clay, 
is  covered  with  a  thick  vegetable  mould.  The  Chinese  in- 
habitants brought  their  mode  of  agriculture  with  them,  and 


Formosa  329 

pineapples  and  manv  plants  and  fruits  are  grown  in  abun- 
dance. Tea,  sugar,  rice,  the  sweet  potato,  millet,  wheat, 
barley,  maize,  indigo,  hemp,  peanuts,  and  jute  are  raised  in 
such  quantities  as  to  be  among  the  important  exports  of  the 
island. 

The  fauna  includes  several  varieties  of  deer,  wild  boars,, 
bears,  goats,  monkeys,  squirrels,  panthers,  and  wild-cats. 
The  ox  takes  the  place  of  the  horse,  and  dogs  are  kept  for 
hunting  purposes. 

The  rivers  and  neighboring  seas  are  well  stocked  with 
fish.  Turtles,  flying-fish,  and  coral-fish  swim  in  the  warm 
waters,  and  fine  little  oysters  and  clams  lie  upon  the  rocky 
beds  under  the  waters. 

Coal,  sulphur,  oil,  and  turpentine  are  articles  of  export. 
The  principal  coal  fields  are  in  the  northern  part  of  the 
island  near  Kelung  and  Tam-sui.  This  coal  is  highly 
bituminous   and  free-burning. 

The  island  of  Formosa  was  known  to  the  Chinese  from 
a  very  early  date.  They  called  it  "  Kilung,"  and  its  inhab- 
itants Fung-fai,  or  "  southern  barbarians."  In  the  six- 
teenth century,  when  the  Portuguese,  the  Spaniards,  and  the 
Dutch  were  scouring  these  seas  in  quest  of  gold  and  con- 
quest, they  all  happened  to  discover  Formosa  about  the 
same  time.  The  Dutch  were  a  little  ahead,  and  built  the 
fort  Zelandia,  which  has  now  grown  to  be  the  town  of 
Tai-wan.  They  established  a  mild  form  of  government, 
and  conciliated  the  aborigine  natives  ;  but  when  the  Tartars 
conquered  China,  some  of  the  defeated  followers  of  the 
Mings  crossed  over  to  Formosa,  drove  off  the  Dutch,  took 
possession  of  a  large  portion  of  the  island,  and  formed  a 
government  under  which  the  natives  have  always  been 
restless.  In  the  latter  part  of  the  sixteenth  century,  the 
Chinese  of  Formosa  acknowledged  the  Emperor  of  China, 
and  since  that  time  Formosa  has  formed  part  of  the  Chinese 
Empire. 


330     All  American   Cruiser  in   the  East 

In  the  latter  part  of  the  seventeenth  century,  a  terrible 
typhoon  swept  over  the  island,  throwing  down  the  buildings 
on  shore,  and  wrecking  twenty-eight  war  vessels.  Later 
in  the  same  century  a  great  rebellion  broke  out,  and  order 
was  not  restored  until  over  one  hundred  thousand  men  had 
perished  by  the  casualties  of  war. 

Formosa  is  a  dangerous  coast  in  the  monsoon  and 
typhoon  seasons,  and  until  the  days  of  steam  navigation 
was  known  only  on  account  of  the  dangerous  navigation  in 
the  locality,  the  fierce  winds  which  draw  through  its  chan- 
nel, and  the  large  number  of  wrecks  that  were  strewn  along 
its  inhospitable  shores.  But  in  these  days  of  steam-power 
and  a  better  acquaintance  with  the  surroundings,  we  can 
stand  off  or  on,  as  we  please,  and  have  no  tear  of  the 
dangers  that   lurk  about  "  Isla  Formosa." 

Shipwrecked  crews  used  to  run  great  risks  from  the  can- 
nibal natives  and  from  the  cruelty  of  the  Chinese.  In  1842 
the  British  brig  "  Ann  "  was  lost,  with  fifty-seven  persons  on 
board,  of  whom  fortv-three  were  executed  at  Tai-wan  ;  and 
as  late  as  1872,  the  crew  of  a  Japanese  vessel  shipwrecked 
on  the  coast  was  murdered  by  the  savages.  The  Japanese 
government  sent  an  expedition  to  punish  the  assassins,  and 
a  war  between  China  and  Japan  seemed  imminent ;  but  it 
was  avoided  by  China's  payment  of  seven  hundred  thousand 
dollars  as  compensation  to  the  friends  of  the  murdered  men, 
and  an  additional  sum  to  cover  the  expenses  of  the  expedi- 
tion, after  which  the  Japanese  troops  were  withdrawn  from 
the  island. 

Since  1877,  roads  have  been  constructed  throughout  the 
Chinese  territory,  the  resources  of  the  island  are  being 
rapidly  developed,  and  Auping  and  Takow  have  been 
strongly  fortified. 


CHAPTER    XX 

AMOY,     CHINA 

RUNNING  down  the  coast  before  a  stiff  monsoon  is 
the  very  acme  of  saiHng,  and  reminds  us  of  the 
"  good  old  times  "  we  have  all  read  of,  when  the  time  of  a 
vessel  between  ports  could  never  be  predicted.  If  a  vessel 
made  a  start,  her  progress  would  depend  almost  entirely 
upon  the  state  of  the  winds.  But  in  these  days  of  "  steam 
and  schedules,"  the  time  of  arrival  can  generally  be  calcu- 
lated. If,  however,  one  is  sailing  in  the  monsoon  region, 
there  may  be  delays  if  the  winds  are  adverse,  or  his  speed 
may  be  greatly  accelerated  in  spite  of  "  close-reefed  topsails  " 
and  "  the  engines  turning  as  slowly  as  possible." 

The  latter  was  our  case  on  this  run.  We  expected  to 
arrive  at  early  daylight,  but  the  winds  pushed  us  along  at 
such  rate  that  we  found  ourselves  off  the  entrance  lisht  at 
about  eleven  o'clock  in  the  night.  The  coast  and  entrance 
being  well  lighted,  and  the  charts  entirely  reliable,  we  kept 
the  lead  going  and  ran  iii,  anchoring  for  the  night  in  the 
outer  harbor.  Our  friends  on  shore  were  delighted  to  see 
the  "Starry  Banner"  just  as  Key  wrote,  "By  the  dawn's 
early  light." 

The  island  of  Amov  is  a  great  barren  rock  of  volcanic 
formation,  evidently  of  the  same  chain  as  its  neighbors 
Korlangsoo  and  Swatow.  Perhaps,  in  past  times,  the  great 
thousand-ton  granite  bowlders,  rocks,  and  stones  that  we 
now  see  all  about  us,  were  hurled  upwards  in  some  fearful 
convulsion  of  nature  ;  but  the  rains  and  the  winds  of  the 


332      An  American   Cruiser  in   the   East 

monsoons  have  washed  and  blown  away  from  its  un- 
sheltered sides  all  deposits  before  thev  could  gain  a  holding 
place  among  the  smooth  rocks. 

Ages  ago,  so  long  ago  that  no  one  now  knows  the  time, 
an  outpost  was  established  here  to  repel  piratical  incursions 
from  neighboring  islands.  This  outpost  developed  into  a 
camp,  the  camp  into  a  regularly  fortified  place ;  camp  fol- 
lowers and  hangers-on  soon  came  ;  and  when  the  settlement 


The  Deified  Rocks  at  Amoy,  China. 


was  Strong  enough  to  repel  hostile  attack,  trade  began  and 
business  grew,  —  hence  the  present  citv. 

Amov  is  situated  on  a  hill,  on  the  south  coast  of  the 
barren  island  of  Amov,  in  latitude  24°  28'  north,  longitude 
118°  10'  east,  nearly  opposite  the  centre  of  the  island  of 
Formosa,  The  city  is  about  ten  miles  around,  and  is 
divided  into  an  inner  and  an  outer  town,  separated  from  each 
other  bv  a  chain  of  hills.  Upon  the  summit  of  these  hills 
there    is   an  old  Chinese   citadel    of  considerable    strength,. 


Amoy,   China  333 

which  commands  both  cities,  as  well  as  the  surrounding 
country. 

Each  city  has  its  own  commodious  harbor,  where  hun- 
dreds of  picturesque  junks,  swarming  with  noisy  natives, 
can  be  seen,  and  the  incHned  stone  landings  are  crowded 
with  men  and  women,  bearing  to  and  from  these  busy 
water-craft  burdens  of  rice,  sugar,  tea,  or  fish. 

The  inner  city  is  protected  by  a  network  of  very  strong 
fortifications ;  but  these  are  so  close  that  in  case  of  an 
attack  upon  them  an  enemy's  projectiles  would  be  sure  to 
destroy  both  cities. 

Amoy  is  the  entry  port  of  the  province  of  Fo-kien  and 
the  seaport  of  Chang-chu,  with  which  it  has  good  river 
communication.  Many  cargoes  of  tea  from  Tam-sui  and 
other  ports  of  Formosa  are  handled  here,  the  charges  inci- 
dent to  the  porterage  and  handling  adding  very  materially 
to  the  commercial  importance  of  the  place. 

The  men  of  Amoy  are  stalwart,  handsome  fellows,  who 
have  the  bearing  of  good  soldiers.  They  dress  like  the 
Chinese  of  this  section  of  country,  but  wear  turbans 
to  conceal  the  pigtail,  which  they  consider  a  badge  of 
oppression. 

The  streets  of  the  native  cities  are  very  narrow  and 
filthy.  They  are  not  more  than  seven  feet  wide ;  many 
of  them  are  of  less  width,  and  there  is  no  pretence  of 
sanitary  arrangements.  To  go  about  in  them  one  has  to  be 
prepared  to  climb  over  and  wade  through  the  most  horrid 
filth  and  abominations,  and  the  odors  are  at  times  almost 
unbearable. 

Granite  is  plenty,  and  can  be  had  for  the  gathering  and 
hauling.  On  the  heights,  temples,  monasteries,  and  a  i'ew 
houses  are  built  of  this  stone.  During  the  prevalence  of 
the  monsoons,  the  climate  is  filled  with  moisture  ;  and  as 
stone  houses  are  believed  to  attract  the  moisture  and  become 
damp,  the  people  do  not  consider  them  desirable  as  places 


334      ^'^   American    Cruiser   in   the   East 

of  residence,  A  great  manv  very  poor  families  are  crowded 
together,  more  like  animals  than  human  beings,  in  scantily 
furnished,  dirty  houses. 

Many  families  seem  to  be  composed  entirely  of  boy 
children.  When  the  parents  are  poor,  or  if  they  do  not 
care  to  rear  girls,  they  either  sell  or  kill  them.  If  killed, 
they  are  usually  drowned  in  a  tub  of  water,  and  the  father 
must  do  the  horrid  work,  as  any  agent  would  be  liable  to 
be  punished  for  the  murder.  The  parents  have  absolute  con- 
trol over  their  children.  Sometimes  girls  are  offered  for 
sale,  but  buyers  are  few.  It  is  thought  necessary  that  all 
children  should  marry  ;  and  parents  often  sell  or  give  their 
girls  to  their  friends  when  they  are  quite  young,  to  be  the 
future  wives  ot  the  sons  of  the  new  owners.  Even  among 
the  better  classes,  girl  children  are  sometimes  put  to  death, 
if  the  parents  have  more  daughters  than  they  care  to  rear. 

Chinese  girls  of  from  ten  to  sixteen  years  of  age  wear 
their  hair  "  banged  "  across  the  front  of  the  head  as  a  noti- 
fication to  the  "go-between  "  that  they  are  of  marriageable 
age.  The  condition  of  a  Chinese  woman  is  fearful  even  to 
contemplate.  Born  a  slave,  she  runs  the  gantlet  of  murder 
in  childhood  to  die  a  slave,  —  only  changing  masters  from 
father  to  husband,  with  too  frequently  a  "  she-de\'il  of  a 
mother-in-law  "  to  make  her  life  a  very  hell  on  earth. 
Uneducated,  except  perhaps  in  the  "  accomplishments  of 
music  and  high-pitched  discords,"  with  no  consoling  re- 
sources, she  works  on  and  dreams  her  poor  life  away  in 
stupid  fancy  or  stolid  indifference,  until  her  time  comes  to 
maltreat  some  unfortunate  daughter-in-law. 

The  boys  are  not  treated  thus,  for  when  thev  grow  up 
they  can  earn  more  money  than  girls,  help  support  the 
parents  when  ill  or  old,  and  can  worship  the  ancestral 
tablets,  and  continue  the   family   name. 

The  natives  of  Amoy  were  very  curious,  and  followed  us 
about  in  crowds.    If  prices  were  asked  or  bargains  attempted, 


Amoy,    China 


o  o  r 


every  one  in  the  crowd  had  a  voice  in  the  transaction,  and 
if  money  passed,  they  each  looked  at  it  and  expressed  an 
opinion  upon  its  genuineness  and  value  ;  but  we  were  not 
long  in  concluding  that  this  was  due  to  what  might  be 
called,  "  good-natured  inquisitiveness,"  rather  than  imperti- 
nence. The  people  have  a  high  sense  of  the  ludicrous,  and 
we  found  that  the  best  way  to  rid  ourselves  of  their  un- 
desirable attentions  was  to  get  the  laugh   on  one  of  them, 


Foreign  Residences  at  Korlangsoo,  Amoy,  China. 

when  his  fellows  would  immediately  discover  the  joke  and 
follow  it  up  without  mercy.  The  person  laughed  at  would 
get  out  of  the  crowd  and  trv  to  sneak  off,  which  was  the 
signal  for  the  greater  part  of  the  mob  to  follow  him  with  jeers 
and  shouts,  and  we  would  be  left  in  peace  until  a  new 
crowd  discovered  the  foreigners,  and  gathered  around  us. 

The  consulates  and  foreign  residences  are  situated  on 
the  opposite  island  of  Korlangsoo,  a  large  island  of  vol- 
canic formation,  where  stones,  rocks,  and  great  bowlders 
have   been    hurled    forth    in    some    past  age.       The     resi- 


336      An   American   Cruiser  in  the  East 

dences  are  commodious  and  elegant,  and  are  located 
in  beautiful  gardens,  enclosed  by  low  stone  walls.  The 
roads  are  well  kept,  and  some  delightful  tramps,  together 
with  many  charming  views,  may  be  enjoyed. 

The  "  Lampotoh  Temple,"  above  the  race-course,  is 
a  fine  specimen  of  Chinese  religious  architecture  and 
decoration. 

Many  of  the  great  bowlders,  on  both  sides  of  the  river, 
are  decorated  with  inscriptions  relating  to  local  history, 
or  with   extracts  from  the  sages. 

The  island  was  captured  by  the  British  in  1841,  after  a 
determined  resistance,  and  is  now  one  of  the  treaty  ports. 

The  natives  are  expert  manufacturers  of  a  grass-cloth  that 
is  quite  celebrated  throughout  the  east.  Game,  fish,  and 
fruits  are  abundant.  Snipe  and  wild  ducks  can  be  had  in 
the  autumn  and  winter  season  ;  fine  fish  can  be  had  at  all 
times.  Delicious  pomolas  are  brought  from  the  orchards  up 
the  river,  and  all  the  fruits  of  the  semi-tropical  zone  can  be 
found  in  the  markets.  Exclusive  of  junks,  fifteen  hundred 
vessels  enter  the  port  each  year. 

SwATOw,  China 

Swatow  is  situated  on  the  Han  River,  in  latitude  23°  40' 
north,  longitude  116°  42'  east,  and  is  the  port  of  Chan- 
chan-too  in  the  province  of  Kwang-tung. 

About  the  time  we  dropped  anchor  off"  the  Consulate  at 
Swatow  we  saw  our  colors  flying  on  the  staff  of  the  old 
Chinese  fort  at  the  river's  entrance,  and  on  counting  the 
little  pufFs  of  smoke  issuing  from  the  fort's  popguns,  we 
found  that  our  flag  was  being  saluted.  When  the  salute 
was  finished,  the  "  Chinese  dragon  "  was  flying  at  our  main- 
mast head,  and  the  compliment  was  returned  with  our  eight- 
inch  guns.      Not    since   the  earthquake,  ages  ago,  has  old 


Amoy,   China  339 

Swatow  had  the  shaking  up  we  gave  it.  The  great  white 
puffs  soon  formed  into  white  cloud  masses,  hanging  about 
us  and  dimming  our  vision  ;  while  the  reports,  deep  and 
sullen,  rang  out  to  the  echo  and  re-echo,  playing  among  the 
everlasting  hills,  rattling  and  crashing  before  the  expanding 
powder  waves.  Thousands  of  frightened  natives  flocked  to 
the  river's  side,  looking  on  in  astonishment,  as  the  great 
guns  boomed  out  the  salute.  They  said  they  thought  old 
Swatow  was  experiencing  a  series  of  earthquakes,  and  they 
flocked  to  the  river's  edge  as  a  place  of  refuge.  The  old 
commander  of  the  fort  danced  and  cried,  by  turns,  when  he 
saw  and  heard  how  we  were  honoring  his  country's  flag. 
After  the  salute,  the  natives  were  very  polite  and  could  not 
do  enough  for  us. 

The  immediate  neighborhood  of  the  city  is  guarded  by  an 
ancient,  quadrangular  stone  fort,  which  is  armed  with  old 
two-inch,  cast-iron,  smooth-bore  guns,  mounted  on  ship's 
gun-carriages.  These  had  been  evidently  obtained  from 
some  vessel  in  the  old  davs.  The  fort  is  fairly  well  pre- 
served, and  is  carefully  watched  bv  its  zealous  guard,  who 
kept  very  close  to  us  while  we  were  looking  through  its 
precincts. 

The  houses  are  made  of  clay,  with  tent-shaped,  tiled 
roofs,  and  many  of  them  stand  in  pretty  gardens  surrounded 
by  high  walls.  The  interiors  of  the  houses  are  frequently 
highly  ornamented  with  dragons,  beasts,  birds,  and  flowers, 
the  work  of  native  artists,  who  are  considered  the  finest 
painters  in  China.  The  houses  are  nearly  all  residences  or 
warehouses,  and  we  missed  the  gay  little  open-front  shops 
that  are  so  attractive  in  other  Chinese  cities. 

Swatow  is  an  important  tea-market,  and  its  white-metal 
work  and  curious  fans  are  well  known  throughout  the 
world.  Its  painters  are  well  patronized.  The  people  dress 
better  than  those  in  northern  China,  and  the  women  are 
considered  the  handsomest  on  the  Chinese  coast.      Like  the 


340      An  American   Cruiser  in   the   East 

ladies  in  other  parts  of  the  countrv,  they  have  a  wonderful 
way  of  dressing  the  hair,  in  "  tea-pot,"  "  butterfly,"  or  plain 
fashion.  The  toes  of  girl  babies  are  turned  under  the  feet 
and  secureK'  bound  in  place  to  prevent  the  feet  from   grow- 


WOMAN    OF    SWATOW,    CHINA. 

ing,  while  the  rest  of  the  body  is  developing.  Otttimes, 
the  bandages  are  not  remox'ed  for  months,  and  the  poor 
children  suffer  excruciating  pains,  but  the  treatment  is  per- 
severed in.  Tn  olden  times,  this  was  done  for  the  ungallant 
reason   of  "  preventing   the   women    from   gadding   about,'* 


Amoy,    China  341 

but  ill  these  days  it  has  become  the  fashion.  Small  feet 
prove  that  the  woman  cannot  stand  upon  them  comfortably 
and  cannot  work  ;   consequently  she  must  be  a  lady. 

Daintily  mincing  along  on  tiny  feet,  or  borne  in  state  in 
sedan-chairs,  the  belles  of  this  "  flowery  land  "  take  their 
airing  and  visit  some  temple,  or  a  street  where  they  can  see 
and  be  seen.  Clad  in  broad-sleeved  garments  of  skv-blue 
brocade,  bordered  with  black,  or  brown,  or  scarlet  ;  with 
wide  black  trousers,  reaching  to  the  ankles  ;  with  white 
cloth  -' leggins  "  and  tin\'  lilac  silk  shoes  -,  with  thick  white- 
edged  soles ;  with  the  hair  done  into  great,  glossy  black 
folds,  representing  tea-pots,  butterflies,  or  shells  ;  with 
numerous  gold,  silver,  or  colored  glass  pins  and  flowers, 
—  they  feel  themselves  the  peers  of  their  fairer  sisters  in 
any   land. 

The  beautiful  strip  of  level  land  which  runs  along  the 
river-front  of  the  opposite  island  has  been  utilized  by  the 
foreign  inhabitants  as  a  place  of  residence.  Here  handsome 
houses,  surrounded  by  elegant  grounds,  with  the  luxuries 
of  the  far  East  to  gratify  the  senses  and  taste,  make  almost  a 
paradise  on  earth.  Great  banyan-trees  clingingly  spread 
their  branches  up  the  hillsides,  and  the  sweet  rose  blends 
its  fragrance  with  the  geranium  and  heliotrope. 

A  tramp  past  the  dingy  little  hillside  temple,  and  a  climb 
over  the  green  hills,  brings  us  into  a  great  basin,  —  a  very 
valley  of  death,  —  where  we  find  a  mass  of  barren  rocks 
and  bowlders  that  have  been  hurled  from  the  interior  of  the 
earth  in  some  past  age,  of  which  the  natives  have  no  record. 
For  miles  extends  a  great  bowl-shaped  valley  of  lava  beds, 
an  extinct  crater,  with  rocks  and  stones  and  bowlders,  where 
all  is  desolation  and  ruin,  and  no  blade  of  grass  or  other 
green  thing  even  struggles  between  crack  or  crevice  to 
change  the  awful   hue  of  nature's  curse. 

The  views  from  this  height  are  charming,  —  the  green 
hills,  with   the   great    brown,  serpentine    rivers,  meandering 


342 


An   American   Cruiser  in   the  East 


among  them  ;  the  hills  bevond  and  beneath  ;  the  green  sea, 
losing  itself  in  the  great  blue  ocean  ;  while  the  clouds,  like 
a  great   canopy,  cover  them   all. 

The  superstitious  natives,  like  their  brethren  of  Amov, 
have  placed  inscriptions  upon  some  of  the  greater  bowlders 
and  deified  others ;  but  the  beating  winds  and  mocking 
monsoons  are  disintegrating  the  stones,  and  drift  the  sand 
upon  the  clayey  soil  below,  tempering  it  for  the  husband- 
man's use.  Even  now,  the  waving  rice  drinks  in  the  dew- 
drops,  and  bathes  its  roots  in  the  sweet  waters,  while  waving 
"  charms  "  ward  off  the  poaching  birds,  and  the  air  is  laden 
with  sweet  odors  from  garden,  field,  and  orchard.  Birds 
chirp  gavly  as  thev  roam  from  branch  to  branch,  and  all 
nature  seems  to  smile,  under  the  lee  of  this  leaden  old 
crater. 

Comfortably  settled  in  a  house-boat,  a  junk  with  a  cabin 
built  upon  it,  fitted  with  a  stove,  some  provisions,  and  a 
couple  of  Chinese  servants,  a  partv  may  sail  beyond  the 
city  and  keep  clear  of  all  villages.  Snipe,  wild  ducks,  and 
geese  come  onto  the  marshy  rice-fields  for  food  and  water, 
and  as  they  are  gamy,  the  sport  is  fine.  Ovsters  are  large 
and  of  delicious  flavor,  reminding  us  of  the  Chesapeake 
Bav  bivalves. 

The  rise  and  fall  of  the  tide  is  about  sixteen  feet,  and 
when  the  tide  is  out  great  mud-flats  must  be  crossed  in 
landing.  These  are  gotten  over  in  peculiarlv  shaped,  flat- 
bottomed  boats,  which  the  native  crews  push  in  or  out  as 
they  slide  over  the  mud. 

Swatow  contains  about  forty  thousand  native  inhabitants 
and  about  two  hundred  foreigners. 


CHAPTER    XXI 

CA.NTON,    CHINA 

FROM  the  time  of  lea\  ing  Amov  until  we  reach  the 
harbor  of  Hong-kong,  two  hundred  and  ninety  miles 
away,  we  were  driven  bv  a  lively  northeast  monsoon, 
which  caused  the  vessel  to  pitch  and  roll  so  deeply  that  it 
was  almost  impossible  to  keep  on  one's  feet  without  the  aid 
ot  life  lines.  Under  such  conditions,  we  had  great  regard  for 
the  author  of  the  old  song,  "  A  Life  on  the  Ocean  Wave  ;  " 
but  when  we  remember  that  it  was  written  on  a  bench  in 
the  old  battery  of  New  York,  and  not  on  the  ocean  wave, 
we  must  pardon  the  imagination  and  forgive  the  author. 

The  harbor  between  Hong-kong  and  Kowloon,  oppo- 
site, is  picturesque  and  novel.  Beyond,  are  great  black, 
fog-covered  hills,  dotted  here  and  there  with  white  houses, 
which  grow  thicker  at  the  upper  end,  and  form  the  city  of 
\^ictoria.  The  thread-like  lines  indicate  the  Kennedy  and 
military  roads,  and  the  cable  road  to  Mount  Austin,  A 
great  fleet  of  war  vessels,  stretching  along  the  harbor, 
represents  all  shades  of  naval  architecture,  from  the  hulk,  of 
the  days  of  the  East  India  Company,  to  the  most  modern 
steel  coast-defence  vessel,  and  all  that  comes  between, — 
including  the  old  wooden  Chinese  war-junk  with  its  two- 
inch  cast-iron  gun  amidships,  and  the  speedy  little  steel 
steamers  which  bear  the  dragon  flag.  Thousands  of  sam- 
pans and  junks  are  lined  up  to  the  sea-wall,  and  on  the 
opposite  side  is  the  low,  sandy  Kowloon. 

Steaming  on,  we  enter  the  "  Boca-Tigris,"  the  "Tiger's 
Mouth,"   the    entrance    proper    to   the    Hu-mun,    or    Pearl 


344     ^'^   American   Cruiser  in   the  East 

River.  There  are  some  beautiful  hills  on  both  sides  of  the 
river,  extending  for  miles  from  the  entrance.  Some  are 
undulating,  with  a  gradual  slope,  others  are  craggy  on  the 
river's  front,  and  some  are  cut  off  abruptly.  Every  hill  is 
stronglv  fortified,  and  bristles  with  great  guns.  Between 
the  hills,  two  rows  of  piles  have  been  driven,  and  these 
extend  across  the  river,  with  openings  in  the  channel  about 
fifty  yards  wide,  for  the  passage  of  vessels.  One  of  these 
rows  is  composed  of  iron  piles  driven  endways  into  the 
bottom  of  the  river,  with  their  upper  ends  connected  by 
heavy  chain  cables.  The  other  row  is  made  of  heavy 
wooden  beams. 

As  we  approached  the  citv,  the  fortifications  became 
even  more  extensive,  and  when  we  reached  the  level 
country  we  saw  a  great  bridge,  over  which  an  armv  can 
be  transported  for  the  defence  of  the  city.  The  ends  of 
the  bridge  and  of  the  obstructions  are  defended  by  fortifica- 
tions, and  these  the  Chinese  call  the  "Tiger's  Mouth." 

A  little  further  up  the  river,  we  reached  a  great,  alluvial 
plain  of  wonderful  fertility,  skirted  in  places  by  native 
villages.  Hundreds  of  junks  sail  up  and  down  the  muddy 
river,  and  one  hears  the  din  of  gongs,  sees  the  burning  joss- 
sticks,  and  the  gay,  triangular,  scarlet  flags  at  the  mast-head, 
for  luck.  Several  pagodas  point  heavenward  and  the 
outlines  of  the  "White  Cloud  Mountains"  bound  our 
horizon. 

Great  steel-clad,  bomb-proof  water  batteries,  the  houses 
and  huts  of  the  people,  and  the  hundreds  of  little  river- 
craft  tied  to  the  water-front,  warn  us  of  our  nearness  to 
the  city ;  and  we  drop  our  anchors  into  the  dirty  waters 
between  Sha-mien  and  Honan,  where  we  can  get  the 
breezes  that   are   wafted   up   the  river. 

Canton  is  an  immense  old  city  and  commercial  port, 
situated  on  the  north  side  of  the  Pearl  River,  in  latitude  23^ 


Canton,   China  34^ 

7'  10"  north,  longitude  113"  14'  30"  east,  and  it  is  the 
capital  of  the  province  of  Kvvang-tung  in  the  southern  part 
of  China. 

The  scene  oft  the  city  is  animated,  noisy,  and  bustling. 
Steamers,  junks,  and  sampans  are  crowded  together  at 
anchor,  tied  up  to  the  river's  front,  or  struggle  for  room  to 
move  about  their  business.  Occasionally  there  is  a  collision 
aniong  these  frail  craft,  when  one,  perhaps  two,  are  cut 
down  and  sunk.  A  widening  circle  on  the  surface  marks 
the  spot,  and  is  soon  washed  out  bv  the  swift-running  cur- 
rent, A  little  driftwood  on  the  surface  tells  the  story  of 
several  unfortunates  suftocated  in  the  river's  treacherous 
mud,  and  the  Chinese  world  rolls  on  without  a  thought  or 
a  sigh. 

Great  boats  go  bv  us  loaded  with  passengers  and  freight, 
whose  stern-wheels  are  worked  from  the  inside  in  treadmill 
fashion  by  men  and  boys  who  are  stripped  to  the  waist. 
The  streams  of  perspiration  flowing  down  the  bodies  of 
these  toilers  represent  the  cost  of  the  trips  in  human  blood. 
The  neatly  fitted  and  gaylv  painted  sampan,  which  an  ex- 
pert boatwoman  can  twirl  round  on  its  own  centre,  flits 
back  and  forth  from  the  shore  ;  while  little  steam-cutters  not 
only  hold  their  own,  but  gain  upon  dignified  old  junks, 
whose  two  eyes  may  have  seen  storms  in  the  Yellow  Sea. 

It  was  not  many  minutes  before  we  were  besieged  by  a 
hundred  or  more  boats  and  sampans.  There  were  official 
calls,  port  calls,  and  Chinese  merchants  with  new  goods 
and  old,  porcelains,  silver-ware,  ivory  and  silk  work,  and 
tailors  with  hundreds  of  samples  of  the  most  outlandish 
patterns  that  ever  were  seen,  and  washerwomen  who  were 
anxious  to  do  the  laundry  work  for  three  silver  dollars  a 
hundred  pieces.  This  assemblage  was  one  of  the  noisiest 
and  most  picturesque  that  could  well  be  gathered  on  a  vessel's 
decks.  The  sleek  merchant  in  brocade  silk,  clean-sha\'en, 
with   the   address  of  a    courtier   spread   out   his  wares   and 


346      An   American   Cruiser   in   the   East 

temptinglv  oftered  them  for  sale.  The  girls  of  the  sampans, 
with  heads  dressed  in  the  best  style  of  the  "  butterfly  "  or 
"tea-pot"  or  in  plaits,  in  their  blue  gowns  and  black 
trousers,  with  bare  feet,  but  with  graceful  carriage,  wan- 
dered about  their  own  little  boats,  and  added  gavetv  to 
the   scene. 

One  of  the  most  piteous  sights  that  we  have  seen  here 
was  a  poor,  frail  craft,  containing  a  family  of  lepers.  It 
dropped  stealthily  down  into  the  crowd  of  boats  surround- 
ing us,  and  the  inmates  importuned  for  the  broken  stuff 
from  the  messes.  A  little  ivhite  fellow  of  about  ten  years 
managed  the  boat,  which  was  a  mass  of  old  matting 
and  filth.  From  its  stern  a  handless,  noseless  hag,  with 
matted  hair  and  covered  with  horrible  sores,  was  imploring 
succor.  The  man  in  the  bow  was  more  loathsome  than 
the  woman.  His  eyes  were  gone,  the  mouth  was  eaten 
away,  and  the  face  and  scalp  were  covered  with  dirty 
ulcers.  These  poor  people  held  up  their  withered  stumps 
and  exposed  their  horrid  sores  to  excite  our  sympathy.  They 
were  given  a  lot  of  provisions,  and  the  inmates  of  the  sam- 
pans drove  them  off,  but,  much  to  our  annoyance,  they 
persisted  in  hovering  about  the  \  essel  during  our  entire 
stay. 

"  Sha-mien,"    the     Sand-flats 

Formerly  the  foreign  residences  were  on  the  river-front, 
outside  of  the  city  walls,  and  just  east  of  Canton.  In 
December,  1856,  these  residences  were  destroyed  by  a 
Chinese  mob,  when  the  city  was  captured  and  occupied  by 
the  British  and  French,  acting  together.  The  city  and  its 
neighborhood  were  governed  by  a  military  commission,  com- 
posed of  officers  of  these  forces,  until  late  in  the  year  1861, 
when  it  was  concluded  to  select  a  more  secure  place  of 
residence  for  foreigners.  A  large  sand-flat,  located  to  the 
westward  of  the  old    settlement,  and    in    front  of  the  city, 


Canton,   China  347 

was  chosen.  This  was  made  into  a  substantial  island  bv 
building  a  heavy  granite  retaining  wall  around  it,  and  filling 
in  with  soil.  A  canal,  one  hundred  feet  wide,  was  left 
between  it  and  the  city,  as  a  means  of  protection  against 
Chinese  mobs.  The  two  bridges,  which  span  the  canal 
and  lead  into  Canton,  are  guarded  by  heavy  iron  gates,  and 
there  are  guard-houses,  where  Chinese  troops  are  kept  on 
duty  at  all  times.  The  gates  are  always  kept  closed,  and 
are  locked  at  night.  Chinese  found  on  the  island  after  dark 
are  compelled  to  give  an  account  of  themselves.  The  new- 
made  island  is  about  three  thousand  feet  long,  and  one 
thousand  at  its  broadest  part,  and  nearly  four  hundred 
thousand  Mexican  dollars  were  expended  to  put  it  in  order. 
A  tax  of  forty-five  dollars  per  acre  per  annum  is  paid  to 
the  Chinese  government   for  its  use. 

Sha-mien  is  well  located,  being  only  a  hundred  feet  from 
the  suburb  of  Canton,  where  all  the  Chinese  wholesale 
dealers,  bankers,  and  merchants  reside.  It  has  a  safe  and 
commodious  anchorage  for  vessels  of  about  fourteen  feet 
draught  of  water,  but  large  steamers  and  all  foreign  sailing 
vessels  are  required  to  anchor  off"  Wampoa,  twelve  miles 
below.  It  faces  the  Macao  passage,  gi\'ing  a  short  cut  to 
and  from  the  sea,  and  the  cool  breezes  of  summer  are 
wafted   up   its   channel. 

The  residences  on  Sha-mien  are  palatial  in  architecture, 
finish,  and  fittings,  and  are  surrounded  with  beautiful 
walled  gardens.  Their  masters  and  mistresses  are  among 
the  most  hospitable  people  in  the  world.  The  roads  about 
the  island  are  broad,  clean,  and  well  shaded  by  trees  of 
dense  foliage.  There  is  a  handsome  little  English  church 
near  the  centre  of  the  settlement,  while  the  club  and  the 
new  theatre  furnish  the  public  amusements  of  the  place. 

The  residents  live  in  a  state  of  alarm  produced  bv  the 
bad  feeling  that  is  always  exhibited  towards  them  by  the 
Chinese.      It   is   a  common   occurrence  for  Canton  to  be 


348      An   American    Cruiser  in   the   East 

placarded  with  threats  against  the  "  foreign  devils,"  and 
this,  together  with  the  recollection  of  the  outrages  of  1856, 
causes  terrible  strains  upon  the  nervous  systems  of  the  for- 
eign residents. 

Old    Canton 

Having  secured  the  services  of  Ah-Po,  a  guide,  we  crossed 
the  stone  bridge  which  unites  Sha-mien  with  Canton. 
Fierce-looking  Tartar  guards  swung  open  one  of  the  great 
iron  gates,  and  we  entered  the  suburbs  of  the  "  Celestial 
city."  A  peep  into  the  dingv  bamboo  guard-house,  on  the 
left  of  the  road,  revealed  a  double  stand  of  barbarous  pikes 
and  spears,  still  useful  in  repelling  an  infuriated  mob  ;  and, 
lounging  upon  their  soiled  mats,  awaiting  a  "call  to  arms," 
or  to  relieve  the  guard,  were  a  crowd  of  men  as  piratical- 
looking  as  ever  were  seen. 

The  citv  is  enclosed  by  a  brick  wall  which  is  built  upon 
a  stone  foundation.  This  wall  is  more  than  six  miles  around, 
twenty  feet  thick,  and  its  average  height  is  about  twentv- 
five  feet.  Another  wall  runs  from  east  to  west,  and 
divides  the  city  into  two  parts,  the  old  and  the  new.  The 
old  citv,  or  northern  part,  is  occupied  bv  the  Tartars  ;  while 
the  new,  or  southern  part,  is  peopled  by  the  Chinese. 
The  houses  extend  along  the  river  for  about  four  miles, 
and  the  river-front  is  crowded  with  junks,  sampans,  and 
boats  of  all  styles. 

The  outer  wall  of  the  city  rises  to  enclose  a  hill  on  the 
north  side,  and  on  the  other  three  sides  it  is  surrounded  by 
a  ditch  which  extends,  sewer-like,  under  many  of  the 
streets,  while  the  ebbing  tide  is  relied  upon  to  carry  ofF  the 
mass  of  filth  that  accumulates  in  these  beds.  There  are 
twelve  gates  in  the  outer  wall,  and  four  in  the  wall  which 
separates  the  city  into  two  parts.  There  are  also  two 
water-gates  through  which  boats  pass  across  the  new  city. 
The  gates  are  guarded  at  all  times,  and  are  closed  at  night. 


Canton,   China  3^1 

There  are  more  than  six  hundred  narrow,  crooked,  mazy 
streets  in  Canton,  but  a  i'ew  straight  ones  lead  from  the 
gates  on  the  southern  side  to  the  water-front.  The  streets 
are  nearly  all  paved  with  granite  slabs,  and  are  well  kept, 
for  a  Chinese  city.  The  smells,  filth,  and  other  abomina- 
tions that  are  so  prevalent  in  the  other  cities  are  not  met 
with  here.  Canton  is  a  well-governed  city.  It  contains 
1,500,000  inhabitants. 

The  houses  are  small,  usually  two  stories  in  height,  with 
tiled  roofs,  and  are  built  of  drab-colored  bricks,  trimmed 
with  stone  or  wood.  The  first  floor  is  used  as  an  open- 
front  shop,  and  the  rear  portion  and  courtyard  are  used  for 
storehouses;  the  upper  floor  is  divided  into  living-rooms 
and  chambers. 

The  streets  are  usually  covered  over  with  mattings  or 
cotton  awnings  which  extend  from  the  roof  of  one  house 
to  that  of  the  house  opposite.  The  gay  signs  and  crowded 
thoroughfares  give  pleasure  and  delight  as  we  jostle  among 
the  busy  throng.  Every  house  is  barricaded  at  night  by 
means  of  shutters  and  great  beams  ot  wood,  so  that  it  might 
successfully  withstand  a  siege. 

Almost  every  trade  and  occupation  has  its  own  street  or 
quarter  in  this  curious  old  Canton.  For  long  distances, 
we  see  shop  after  shop  where  men  and  boys  are  fashioning 
and  coloring  impossible  dragons,  beasts,  fish,  birds,  flowers, 
and  gods,  in  low  and  high  relief,  and  the  boldness  with 
which  golds  and  greens  and  scarlets  are  used  is  startlino- 
and  wonderful.  In  another  section  are  beautiful  speci- 
mens of  polished  and  of  dull  ebony  cabinets,  bedsteads, 
settles,  and  chairs,  carved  and  plain,  with  marble,  glass,  or 
exquisitely  engraved  panels  and  finishings.  In  others  arc 
paper  and  silk  ornaments  for  women's  wear,  flowers,  birds, 
butterflies,  head-dresses,  porcelains  of  all  kinds  and  forms, 
—  from  the  wine-cup  to  the  great  punch-bowl,  —  in  whites, 
greens,  blues,  golds,  and  all   shades  that  can  be  imagined; 


352      An   American    Cruiser   in   the   East 

jadestones,  upon  which  all  the  processes,  from  the  cutting 
to  the  finishing  and  mounting,  can  be  seen;  artists,  in  stone 
or  wood,  side  by  side,  working  out  some  hideous  dragon  or 
sweet-faced  Buddha ;  painters,  who  have  no  idea  of  per- 
spective, and  verv  little  of  proportion,  gravely  painting  a 
twelve-foot  body  under  a  natural-size  head,  or  a  woman  in 
the  background  taller  than  her  house  in  the  foreground, 
with  colors  and  tints  as  absurd  as  the  drawing ;  ivory- 
carvers  in  whose  work  we  can  study  all  the  manipulations 
of  laying  out,  cutting,  carving,  and  giving  the  finishing 
polish  ;  silk  spinning,  weaving,  and  embroidery,  where 
wonderful  effects  are  produced  in  natural  and  in  fancy 
colors ;  shops,  where  paper  money,  artificial  shoes,  and 
food  are  made  for  sacrificial  purposes,  for  offerings  to  the 
spirits  of  the  dead  ;  and  as  the  spirits  are  not  supposed  to 
know  better,  these  imitations  are  believed  to  be  as  accept- 
able to  them,  when  offered  through  fire,  as  the  real  articles 
would  be  ;  and  as  the  cost  is  much  less,  the  custom  com- 
mends itself  to  a  practical  people.  We  see  the  dog  and 
cat  restaurant,  where  these  creatures  are  served  in  cutlets, 
roasts,  and  savory  stews;  fish-stalls,  where  great  monsters 
swim  side  by  side  with  tiny  shrimp,  while  a  stream  of 
silvery  water  flows  into  the  massive  tub  ;  wonderful  little 
oil  pictures  on  sheets  of  rice  or  silk;  costumes  of  the 
people  and  punishments  for  the  culprit ;  mammoth  crabs 
and  crawfish,  sportive  gold  and  silver  fish,  with  their  flat 
heads,  staring  eyes,  and  fan  tails  ;  mysterious  herbs,  drugs, 
blisters,  potions,  and  charms  in  the  apothecaries'  shop, 
and  the  goggle-eyed  druggist  staring  into  vacancy.  The 
throngs  stop  and  glare  at  us  "  western  barbarians,"  as  we 
move  on  from  shop  to  shop,  and  from  street  to  street. 

All  day  long  the  streets  and  lanes  and  alleys  are  filled 
with  swarming  crowds  of  grave  and  gay  men  and  women,, 
elbowing  and  pushing  their  way  through  the  throng.  Dis- 
tinguished-looking  men,   whose   personality    would    attract 


Canton,    China  353 

attention  in  any  land,  ordinary  and  common  men,  and  fierce, 
cadaverous-looking  fellows,  who  cause  one  instinctively  to 
button  up  his  coat  and  clutch  his  stick,  —  all  pass,  crowd, 
and  repass  in  this  human  hive.  The  chattering,  mincing 
woman,  gayly  decked  and  made  hideous  by  powder  and 
rouge,  trips  along  on  her  tiny  feet,  frequently  jostled  by 
some  rougher  sister  or  impolite  member  of  the  opposite  sex. 
The  beggar  slowlv  moves  his  disgusting  presence  from 
shop  to  shop,  and  drums  upon  his  little  gourd  until  alms 
have  been  bestowed.  All  are  pushed  out  of  the  way,  and 
crowded  here  or  there,  bv  the  outrunners  and  chair-bearers 
of  some  low-grade  mandarin  who  is  proceeding  in  state. 
Bang  !  Bang  !  goes  the  gong  ;  then  a  crowd  in  dingy  scarlet 
with  pointed  hats  precede  his  lordship,  who  is  borne  in  a 
closed  sedan-chair,  over  which  his  red  cotton  umbrella  is 
held.  Or  it  mav  be  a  wedding  procession,  headed  by  men 
and  boys  (as  many  as  can  be  hired),  each  clad  in  old  red 
coats  and  pointed  hats.  They  beat  gongs,  play  on  shrill 
trumpets  and  bass  drums,  and  are  followed  by  bearers  with 
sweets,  roasts  of  duck  and  pig,  cakes,  more  sweets,  the 
bride's  trousseau,  fancv  sedan-chairs,  more  gongs,  and  all 
the  household  furniture  and  utensils  belonging  to  the  high 
contracting  parties. 

If  it  is  a  funeral  procession,  there  will  be  a  long  line  of 
professional  mourners  and  the  friends  of  the  deceased,  all 
clad  in  dingv  white  garments,  and  accompanied  bv  bearers 
with  artificial  monev,  shoes,  provisions,  and  bundles  of 
incense-sticks  to  be  burned  at  the  grave.  The  body  is 
borne  near  the  head  of  the  line.  No  expense  is  spared  on 
any  of  these  occasions  to  make  as  much  display  as  pos- 
sible, and  for  that  purpose  many  of  these  poor  people  pawn 
and  sell  everything  in  their  possession.  If  a  funeral  should 
meet  or  cross  a  wedding  procession,  it  is  considered  the 
most  unlucky  omen. 

In   the    western    suburbs    we  saw    a    large   mill,    where 

23 


354     ^^^  American   Cruiser  in   the  East 

tiny  oxen  were  harnessed  to  the  upper  stones,  and  they 
travelled  round  and  round,  grinding  rice  into  beautiful 
white  flour.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  road  there  is  a 
rival  mill,  where  the  primitive  method  is  adhered  to. 
Large  stone  mortars  are  planted  in  the  ground,  and  over 
each  of  them  a  heavy  wooden  hammer  is  so  arranged  as  to 
fall  into  the  mortar.  Rice  is  placed  in  the  mortar  ;  and  a 
stalwart  coolie,  who  is  stripped  to  the  waist,  jumps  on  and 
off  the  end  of  a  beam,  causing  the  hammer  to  rise  and  fall 
upon  the  rice,  crushing  it  into  flour.  This  process  is  slow 
and  tedious,  and  the  poor  coolies  are  covered  with  streams 
of  perspiration  ;  but  labor  is  cheap  here,  and  many  Chinese 
prefer  the  hammer  to  the  oxen-made  flour. 

The  Guild-hall  of  the  green-tea  merchants  is  a  handsome 
structure,  and  is  highly  ornamented  with  porcelain,  carv- 
ings, and  all  the  colors  of  the  rainbow.  The  property 
occupies  several  acres  of  ground,  upon  which  are  a  Con- 
fucian and  a  Buddhist  temple,  a  theatre,  and  a  handsome 
roof-garden,  besides  the  Guild-hall,  and  a  number  of  private 
rooms.  Although  the  Guild-hall  is  a  new  structure,  its 
appearance  is  marred  bv  the  accumulation  of  filth  and  the 
large  number  of  loafing  loungers  who  haunt  its  precincts. 

At  the  entrance  to  the  court  of  the  Temple  of  the  five 
hundred  genii,  we  were  met  bv  an  old  priest  who  collected  our 
fee  and  conducted  us  through  a  long,  narrow  passage,  open- 
ing into  a  large  courtvard.  Here  twoscore  or  more  of  young 
Celestials  were  engaged  in  athletic  sports,  which  they  sup- 
plemented with  occasional  whoops  that  would  do  credit  to 
young  American  Indians.  The  play  was  rough,  and  the 
whoops  were  loud,  but  we  soon  passed  on  and  entered 
the  temple.  There  are  several  gilded  images  in  the  centre, 
and  ranged  around  the  walls  in  aisles.  The  five  hundred 
colossal  gods  —  huge  men,  carved,  plastered,  and  painted 
in  brown  —  sit  or  recline  at  their  ease.  Some  have  smiling 
countenances,    others  are  childlike  and   bland,   and   others 


Canton,   China  355 

are  hideous.  Our  old  friend  "  Marco  Polo  "  sits  in  a 
corner,  crowned  with  a  sailor  hat,  and  seems  to  be  at  home 
in  the  company,  as  the  curling  smoke  from  the  scented 
joss-stick   reaches  his  wooden   nostrils. 

Some  of  the  gods  have  musical  instruments,  and  around 
many  groups  of  merry,  light-hearted  children  gambol. 
Upon  some  faces  is  seen  the  vacant  stare  that  is,  I  believe, 
the  chief  aim  of  the  devout  Buddhist. 

A  stroll  through  the  shops  forcibly  impressed  us  with 
the  inferiority  of  Chinese  lacquer-ware  as  compared  with 
that  made  in  Japan.  In  China,  the  article  to  be  decorated 
is  made  smooth  and  painted  red.  When  dry,  the  deco- 
ration is  outlined  with  a  stencil,  after  which  the  gold  or 
bronze  is  put  on  over  a  pigment,  and  the  article  is  given 
several  coatings  of  lacquer.  The  result  is,  that  finished 
work  lacks  the  artistic  boldness  and  brilliant  finish  so 
peculiar  to  the  Japanese  work. 

We  were  interested  in  a  glass-ware  manufactory,  where 
broken  bottles  and  other  pieces  of  old  glass  were  being 
melted  in  little  clay-lined,  iron  furnaces,  and  then  worked 
by  human  blow-pipes  into  fancy  bottles  and  ornamental 
shapes.  The  coloring,  bunching,  drawing,  moulding,  and 
other  manipulations  were  all  neatly  performed  by  little  pig- 
tailed  fellows  of  not  more  than  twelve  years  of  age. 

The  Temple  of  Longevity  is  a  dingy  old  house,  where 
a  fat,  sleek,  good-natured,  old  brown  god  receives  the 
prayers  and  homage  of  all  who  seek  him  to  ask  for  a  long 
life.  His  shrine  is  well  patronized,  and  the  ofFering-box 
was  well  filled  with  "  cash."  In  the  public  pond,  we  saw 
freaks  and  crosses  of  Chinese  breeding,  tiny,  moderate,  and 
mammoth  in  size.  There  were  fan-tailed  and  tailless, 
wall-eyed  and  pink-eyed  members  of  the  golden  finny 
tribe. 

The  section  devoted  to  silk  weavers  is  very  interesting  ; 
and   it   is   wonderful  to  see  the  beautiful   fabrics  produced 


356      An  American   Cruiser  in   the   East 

from  the  rude  looms  used,  many  of  which  are  no  better 
made  than  those  in  use  by  our  weavers  of  rag-carpets  thirty 
years  ago.  The  shuttles  are  passed  back  and  forth  bv  hand, 
and  yet  the  texture  is  marvellously  fine,  smooth,  and  even, 
and  the  patterns,  in  stripes,  checks,  and  brocades,  are  re- 
markable  for  the  fidelity   in   repetition   of  design. 

fust  inside  of  the  middle  gate,  in  the  south  wall  of  the 
old  city,  we  come  to  the  court  of  the  old  temple  of  the 
"  five  genii,"  — an  old  pile,  where  the  five  gods  hold  court 
and  receive  the  homage,  incense,  and  offerings  of  the  devout; 
while  behind  them  loiters  a  crowd  of  filthy  attendants,  who 
devote  their  energies  to  smoking,  sleeping,  and  staring  at 
whoever  enters  the  temple.  Near  by  is  the  "  Bare  Pagoda," 
so  named  from  the  fact  that  its  outside  casing,  or  veneer, 
has  fallen  away,  leaving  its  rough,  time-worn  old  walls 
bare.  Great  patches  and  fissures  have  been  made  in  its 
walls  bv  the  ravages  of  time  and  the  elements,  and  a  mon- 
ster tree  is  now  growing  from  its  summit. 

The  Confucian  temple,  not  far  away,  is  another  fine 
specimen  of  Chinese  religious  architecture.  It  is  bare  of 
gods  and  decorations.  Little  stone  and  lacquered  wooden 
tablets  of  ancestors  are  set  upon  the  altar,  in  the  holy  of 
holies,  where  the  people  come  to  worship  and  burn  incense- 
sticks. 

Further  on,  we  see  a  fine  specimen  of  the  Chinese  reli- 
gious monumental  order  of  architecture,  in  a  good  state  of 
preservation.  It  is  nine  stories  in  height,  and  can  be  seen 
from  a  great  distance.  The  view  from  its  top  includes  the 
city  and  the  surrounding  countrv  for  many  miles.  Below 
us  is  the  great  city  with  its  narrow  and  crooked  streets, 
lanes,  and  allevs,  thousands  of  tiled  roofs,  "  bare "  and 
"  five-storied  "  pagodas,  a  few  old  trees,  and  the  citv  walls. 
On  the  north  are  the  hills  with  frowning  forts  upon  them  to 
awe  the  citizens  and  keep  them  in  subjection,  on  the  east 
lie  the  great,  undulating   plains,  that  lose  themselves  in  the 


■:^ 


The  Bare  Pagoda,  Canton,  China. 


Canton,    China 


359 


"  White  Cloud  Mountains,"  and  little  truck  gardens,  with 
their  busy  men,  women,  and  bovs,  working  about  in  quaint 
costumes.  The  graves,  the  tombs,  the  quiet  houses  of  the 
dead,  and  the  Pearl  Ri\er,  creeping  like  a  huge  muddy 
serpent  between  Canton  and  Honan. 

After  descending  from  the  Pagoda,  we  paid  our  respects 
to  the  "  Sleeping  Buddha."  He  occupies  a  shrine  in  a 
dark    old   temple,    which   is  no    cleaner    than    others,   but 


Chinese  I:'t.M> 


In  the  Caugue. 


seems  to  be  a  fitting  home  for  the  "  sleeping  intercessor," 
—  the  eastern  "  Rip  Van  Winkle,"  —  who  must  be  aroused 
by  the  beating  of  a  large  drum,  which  is  suspended  in  the 
temple  from  a  heavy  ornamental  frame. 

We  visited  the  prison,  which  is  a  long  bamboo  shed  with 
thatched  roof,  resembling  an  immense  pig-pen  rather  than 
a  place  for  the  detention  and  reformation  of  human  beings. 
We  saw  many  horrible  specimens  of  the  Chinese  criminal 
class,  some  being  loaded  with  chains,  some  with  their  limbs 
manacled    in    the   stocks,    and  others    wearing   the    caugue 


360      An  American   Cruiser  in   the  East 

about  their  throats,  so  that  they  could  neither  feed  them- 
selves, nor  lie  down  to  sleep. 

The  floor  was  covered  with  filthy  straw,  upon  which  the 
refuse  of  the  place  was  dropped.  The  place  and  the  people 
in  it  were  extremely  dirty,  and  the  air  was  foul  and  dis- 
gusting. There  was  only  a  little  hole  near  the  top  of  the 
hut  for  the  escape  of  the  foul  air. 

Along  the  street,  outside  of  the  prison,  long  rows  of 
rickety  tables  were  placed,  at  which  the  natives  were  playing 
their  favorite  gambling  game  of  "  fan-tan."  The  monev 
on  the  tables  was  mostly  in  "cash,"  —  about  one  tenth  of 
a  cent,  but  in  some  cases  it  was  less.  They  have  a  baser 
metal  than  the  brass  cash,  and  when  they  desire  to  use 
a  coin  of  less  value,  they  break  one  of  these  and  weigh  the 
parts  in  little  pan-scales. 

The  court  is  near  the  prison,  and  as  some  cases  were 
soon  to  be  tried,  we  concluded  to  see  the  proceedings.  We 
were  ushered  into  the  judge's  retiring-room  by  an  attendant, 
where  we  indulged  in  cigars  to  freshen  up  a  little  after  our 
prison  experience.  Soon  the  court  convened.  A  man  in 
a  tall,  pointed  hat  beat  a  gong  several  times.  His  Celestial 
Honor  took  his  seat  on  the  bench,  behind  a  sort  of  counter, 
a  boy  standing  on  his  right,  a  little  in  the  rear.  Two  fine- 
looking  Chinese  court  reporters  took  seats  behind  two 
little  tables  (one  on  the  right  and  one  on  the  left  of  the 
court),  and  began  making  notes.  A  poor  fellow,  ragged 
and  bruised  and  bound  in  chains,  was  dragged  into  the  room 
by  a  fierce-looking  jailer,  who  shook  and  pushed  the  poor 
coolie  as  though  he  were  endeavoring  to  escape.  As  a 
matter  of  fact,  the  prisoner  was  as  meek  as  a  lamb.  The 
officer  made  all  this  noise  to  show  "His  Honor"  how 
zealous  he  was. 

The  prisoner  was  made  to  prostrate  himself  before  the 
court,  on  one  side  of  the  room,  while  a  witness  was  put  in 
the   same    position  on    the  other   side,  and   these   positions 


Canton,   Ch 


una 


361 


they  maintained  throughout  the  trial.  While  we  could  not 
understand  all  of  the  Chinese,  we  knew  that  it  was  a 
knotty  case,  for  the  boy  at  the  judge's  elbow  was  kept  busy 
emptying,  filling,  and  lighting  his  pipe.  His  Honor  would 
take  a  whifF  or  two,  look  very  wise,  and  hand  the  pipe 
back  to  the  boy.  I  am  not  sure  whether  our  presence  had 
anything  to  do  with  the  form  of  the  trial  or  not,  but  I  have 
understood  that  it    is  not  usual   for  "  foreign  devils  "   to  be 


A  Knotty  Case  in  Old  Canton. 

present  at  the  sessions  of  this  court.  This  man  was 
accused  of  a  small  theft,  and  was  sentenced  to  wear  the 
caugue,  with  his  offence  placarded  on  his  breast  for  thirty 
days. 

We  next  visited  the  "  Temple  of  Horrors,"  which  is 
very  interesting  as  a  graphic  depository  of  the  infernos,  in 
miniature,  of  every  creed  -.uider  heaven.  The  spirits  of 
some  of  our  own  ancient  churchmen  might  stroll  through  the 
ghastly  compartments  and   shake  their  sulphurous  forms  in 


362      An   American   Cruiser  in  the  East 

glee  as  they  beheld  these  miniature  people  undergoing  every 
degree  of  torment.  Some  are  havino;  the  flesh  torn  from 
their  writhing  bodies,  or  their  tongues  pulled  out  with  red- 
hot  pincers ;  others  are  being  cut  in  two  by  slow-moving 
saws  ;  boiled  in  oil ;  strangled  ;  torn  limb  from  limb  ;  tortured 
on  the  rack ;  trodden  to  death  under  men's  feet ;  or  tossed 
into  the  everlasting  pit  bv  his  Satanic  Majestv,  who  is 
represented  as  a  hideous-looking  creature,  in  red  clothes, 
with  horns,  club-feet,  and  a  tail.  This  temple  is  in  decay, 
and  loses  some  of  its  horrible  effectiveness  from  this  fact ; 
and  if  it  is  to  continue  to  serve  its  purpose,  believers  in  its 
utility  must  soon  come  to  the  rescue  and  burnish  it. 

The  temple  of  the  God  of  War  is  comparatively  new, 
and  is  patronized  bv  the  military.  It  contains  some  fine 
old  arms  and  banners,  with  other  accoutrements  and  imple- 
ments of  war.  A  sacred  grav  horse  and  a  half-dozen  lazv 
priests  share  the  beans  that  are  contributed  by  the  faithful ; 
while  the  back  part  of  the  temple  is  occupied  bv  a  crowd 
of  loungers  who  render  the  place  noisome  with  the  odor  of 
cooking-food  and  tobacco-smoke. 

The  Mahometan  mosque  —  a  reminder  of  the  little 
mosques  about  Cairo  —  is  fast  on  the  road  to  ruin.  It 
was  founded  about  a.  d.  850  by  the  \'enturesome  Arabians, 
who  were  in  the  habit  of  visiting  and  trading  here.  It  is 
devoid  of  ornament,  unless  the  dirtv  mats  and  "sacred 
spot,"  facing  the  "  East,"  where  the  de\'out  have  knelt  and 
prostrated  themselves  at  the  hour  of  prayer,  can  be  called 
ornaments. 

The  examination  hall  is  an  open  courtyard,  lined  on 
each  side  with  little  stall-like  houses,  not  unlike  two  lines 
of  bath-houses  on  some  beach.  Here  the  fate  of  aspirants 
for  appointments  and  preferment  for  the  district  are  settled. 
The  candidates  present  themselves  at  stated  times,  and  ques- 
tions are  given  and  answered.  The  papers  do  not  bear  the 
name  of  the  candidate,  but  when  finished  he  puts  a  mark  or 


Canton,   China 


363 


character  upon  them.  When  the  examination  is  finished, 
he  puts  a  corresponding  character  and  his  address  upon 
a  card,  which  he  places  in  a  receptacle  prepared  for  it. 
When  the  papers  have  been  examined  and  passed  upon, 
the  candidate  is  notified  of  the  result. 

The  mint,  a  handsome  modern  building  of  European 
architecture,  is  situated  outside  of  the  eastern  gate,  and  is 
operated  under  the  authority  of  the  governor  of  the  prov- 
ince. The  machinery  used  is  of  the  latest  design  and 
make.  Only  subsidi- 
ary silver  coins  are 
made  here.  In  design 
and  finish,  they  are 
equal  to  any  similar 
coins  in  the  world,  and 
are  much  sought  after 
by  the  natives,  who 
prefer  them  to  the 
Hong-kong  coins. 

•The  Blind  Men's 
Home,  the  Old  Men's 
Home,  the  Old 
Women's  Home,  the 
Foundling  Hospital, 
and  the  Leper's  Village  are  praiseworthy  charities,  and  do 
honor  to  the  people  who  founded  and  support  them. 

Along  the  space  between  the  old  city  walls  and  the  lower 
river-front,  on  the  site  of  the  thirteen  factories,  or  foreign 
residences,  that  were  destroyed  by  the  mob  of  1856,  a 
custom-house  and  hundreds  of  Chinese  shops  and  booths 
have  been  erected  ;  and  it  is  here  that  we  see  the  cosmo- 
politan side  of  Canton  life,  —  the  \'ast  throngs  of  men, 
women,  and  children,  of  high  degree  and  low  ;  the  merchant, 
the  farmer,  and  the  coolie  ;  the  people  from  the  north  and 
the  people  from  the   interior.      The  middle  class  jostle  the 


A  Cantonese  Family. 


364     An  American   Cruiser  in   the   East 

beggar,  when  there  is  a  scowl  and  a  war  of  words,  but  they 
rarely  come  to  blows.  One  little  fellow,  however,  of 
about  a  dozen  years,  was  coming  along  with  a  great  basket 
of  fish  suspended  from  the  end  of  a  heavy  pole  which  he 
bore  upon  one  shoulder,  and  a  lot  of  vegetables  in  a  basket 
to  balance  it.  The  load  was  about  as  much  as  an  able- 
bodied  man  would  wish  to  carry.  The  youngster  was 
lustily  crying  his  wares,  when  he  was  run  into  by  a  great, 
awkward  fellow,  who  sent  the  fish  and  green  stuff"  in  every 
direction.  The  boy  threw  down  his  pole  and  without  much 
ceremony  proceeded  to  thrash  his  big  assailant  in  great  style, 
A  crowd  soon  gathered  and  hemmed  them  in,  but  the  people 
would  not  let  the  big  fellow  strike  the  little  one;  and  when 
the  youngster  had  inflicted  as  much  punishment  as  he  chose, 
he  quietly  gathered  up  his  wares  and  went  down  the  street 
crying  "  Fish  and  radishes  !  "  while  the  crowd  chased  the  big 
fellow  oft"  with  jeers. 

This  section  of  the  city  is  filled  with  little  stands  in  front 
of  the  houses,  where  piles  of  Chinese  goods  are  temptingly 
displayed  for  sale,  —  lanterns,  printed  cottons,  caps,  shoes, 
counterfeit  Mexican  dollars,  porcelains,  pipes,  tobacco,  and 
cheap  Chinese  novels.  Cobblers  and  menders  of  clothes, 
fortune-tellers  and  coolies  out  of  a  job,  congregate  here 
and  solicit  trade  ;  and  there  are  restaurants  and  tiffin  shops, 
where  a  full  meal  with  all  the  trimmings  can  be  had,  in 
native  style,  from  birds'  nest  soups,  through  all  the  stews 
and  fries,  to  chow-chow  dog  and  cat. 

The  pawn-shops,  "  the  poor  man's  Pagodas,"  are  massive 
granite  towers,  five  and  seven-storied  square,  shooting  up 
from  the  more  retired  streets,  where  the  distressed  deposits 
the  few  valuables  he  may  possess,  and  receives  a  fraction  of 
their  money  value.  Many  people  who  have  no  homes  —  and 
there  are  a  great  many  such  in  China  —  put  the  clothes  of 
one  season  in  these  places  on  deposit  until  the  next  season, 
when  they  pay  a  fee  and  exchange  the  clothes.      We  found 


Canton,   China  365 

the  floors  of  these  towers  packed  with  valuables  and  clothing 
that  had  been  deposited  as  pledges  for  borrowed  money. 
The  government  keeps  a  strict  watch  over  these  establish- 
ments, and  I  believe  the  charges  are  about  six  per  cent. 
Whether  that  means  for  a  week,  a  month,  or  a  year,  I  could 
not  learn. 

Bankers  and  monev-changers  have  little  booths  and  stands 
along  the  thoroughfares,  where  they  sell  and  exchange  money, 
and  many  of  them  become  very  wealthy  from  small  begin- 
nings and  the  accumulations  of  many  transactions.  Large 
sums  of  money  are  made  in  exchange.  Money  is  never 
chano-ed  as  an  accommodation.  If  a  dollar  is  changed  into 
cash,  so  many  cash  are  deducted  as  the  cost  of  the  transac- 
tion, and  this  soon  amounts  to  enough  to  be  an  object  to 
these  frugal   people. 

We  were  amused  to  see  men  and  boys  at  work  in  a 
tobacco  factory,  cutting,  or  rather  shaving  tobacco.  They 
were  at  work  on  large  planes  that  were  fixed  in  place,  one 
end  on  the  floor,  the  other  elevated  at  about  45  degrees, 
with  the  cutting  edge  of  the  knife  down.  They  pulled 
great  hard  bunches  of  the  weed  upwards,  thus  cutting  it 
into  very  fine  strips,  resembling  the  fine  cut  used  in  the 
United  States. 

We  visited  the  theatrical  school-building ;  but  the  school 
was  not  in  session,  so  we  missed  our  chance  of  seeing  the 
future  stars  of  the  Chinese  Empire.  The  business  in  hand 
seemed  to  be  the  sale  and  hire  of  actors'  and  actresses'  out- 
fits and  embroideries.  The  work  was  gorgeous,  but  we 
did  not  invest.  In  some  of  the  shops  in  this  section,  we 
saw  some  beautiful  filigree-work,  in  gold  and  silver,  certain 
parts  of  which  were  filled  in  like  mosaic-work  with  blue 
feathers  of  the  king-fisher.  Rice-paper  pictures,  painted 
fans,  old  and  new  jades,  bronzes,  gods,  wood-carvings^ 
china-ware,  and  paper-joss  shops  abound  in  this  quarter,  and 
it  is  interestino;  to  loiter  and  watch  the  deft  fingers  of  the 


366      An   American   Cruiser  in   the   East 

cunning  workmen  as  they   fashion  and   finish   their  quaint 
wares. 

Opium-smoking  saloons  are  also  to  be  found  here,  with 
their  sickening;  odors  and  diso-usting;  sights.  Men  and 
women  are  huddled  about  on  filthy  couches  in  all  stages 
of  the  seductive  intoxication,  —  some  just  falling  into  the 
dreamy    state,  others,    perhaps,   in   the    full    enjoyment    of 


I  .... 


Execution  of  Chinese  Reliels. 


dreams    that   rival   a   Monte  Cristo  ;   but  to  awaken  later, 
and  realize  more  horrors  than  were  at  first  experienced. 

In  the  new  city,  we  jostle  the  same,  never-ending  stream 
of  Celestial  humanity  as  we  stroll  on,  inspecting  the  fans, 
jadestone,  and  embroideries,  the  work  of  the  gold-beaters, 
the  rattan  furniture,  the  ivory  shops,  and  the  F'rench 
Cathedral,  where  Tartar  troops  continually  guard  the  cross. 

Outside  the  south  gate,  we  stroll  along  the  river's  bank, 
where    the  same   struggling,  driving    mass   of  humanity   is 


Canton,    China  367 

pushing  up  or  down  the  road  ;  but  the  attraction  tor  us 
lies  in  the  thousands  of  boats  that  line  the  river's  bank, — 
junks,  sampans,  and  flower-boats,  and  hotel-like  struc- 
tures, gayly  carved  and  painted  in  high  colors,  ornamented 
with  bright  lanterns  and  flowers  (the  pleasure-boats  of 
the  natives),  —  where  feasts,  music,  and  dancing  are  fur- 
nished. No  expense  is  spared  to  make  the  Canton  boats 
the  finest  that  can  be  found  on  the  Chinese  coast. 

The  execution  ground  where  condemned  murderers  and 
pirates  are  executed,  is  a  sandy  beach  by  the  river's  side, 
near  the  Mandarins'  landing,  and  almost  under  the  two 
temples.  When  an  execution  takes  place,  a  company  of 
Tartar  troops,  of  the  "  banner  army,"  form  a  line  in  the 
rear  of  the  grounds.  The  condemned  is  led  out  to  the 
ground,  and  is  compelled  to  kneel  and  bend  the  head  for- 
ward. The  executioner,  armed  with  a  heavy,  thick-backed 
cleaver,  takes  his  place  behind  the  condemned.  At  the 
signal  he  steps  beside  the  man,  and,  taking  the  cleaver  in 
both  hands,  hacks  his  head  off.  It  is  a  barbarous  sight. 
Sometimes  several  hacks  are  required  before  the  head  of 
the  unfortunate  is  entirely  severed  from  the  trunk.  One 
of  these  barbarous  exhibitions  suffices  for  a  lifetime,  for  the 
scene  haunts  one  for  days,  and  is  sometimes  pictured  in 
dreams. 

HONAN 

Honan,  a  suburb  of  Canton,  situated  on  the  opposite 
shore  of  the  Pearl  River,  is  the  seat  of  many  thriving  in- 
dustries, the  most  important  of  which  is  the  tea  trade. 
Many  large  tea  hongs,  where  the  leaves  are  received 
from  the  growers,  and  prepared  and  packed  for  their  par- 
ticular markets,  are  located  here,  and  scenes,  similar  to 
those   in  other  Chinese  cities,  are   seen  on  every  hand,  — 


368      An  American   Cruiser  in  the  East 

similar  open  shops,  with  their  quaint  wares  temptinglv  ex- 
posed to  the  passers-by.  Similar  crowds  of  impatient, 
hurrying  human  beings  crowd  the  busy  streets.  In  \isit- 
ing  the  tea  hongs,  we  see  some  curious  processes,  and 
learn  some  facts  about  the  preparation  of  the  fragrant 
leaves,  whose  decoctions  have  added  so  much  to  neighbor- 
hood gossip. 

"  Orange  Peko  "  gets  its  fragrance  by  being  mixed  with 
Arabian  Jessamine,  and  "  Scented  Caper  "  is  scented  with 
leaves  of  the  "  Orange  Peko."  Eighteen  or  twentv  hand- 
fuls  of  leaves  are  placed  in  a  large  copper  pan,  moistened 
with  water,  and  stirred  by  hand  until  sufficiently  softened, 
when  thev  are  placed  in  coarse  cotton  bags,  which  are 
tightly  fastened.  These  bags  are  then  rolled  about  on  the 
floor  by  men  who  hold  on  to  wooden  beams  overhead,  and 
move  the  bags  with  their  feet.  This  rolling  forms  the 
leaves  into  curly  pellets.  When  the  bales  are  opened,  the 
coarse  leaves  are  separated  from  the  fine  ones,  carefully 
fired,  placed  in  wooden  troughs,  and  cut  up.  They  are 
then  placed  in  paper-lined  boxes,  or  chests,  which  are 
covered  with  thin  sheets  of  lead.  The  paper  is  folded  over, 
the  lead  soldered  tight,  the  top  of  the  chest  nailed  in 
place,  and  fancy  paper  is  pasted  all  over  it,  to  exclude  the 
air  and  moisture.  It  is  next  carefully  weighed,  marked, 
and  hurried  off  to  market,  as  the  first  or  "new  crop"  is 
the  most  desirable  and  brings  the  highest  price. 

Merchants  always  retain  samples  of  their  tea,  and  taste 
and  test  both  flavor  and  quality  before  buying  or  selling. 
Tea-testing  is  a  very  important  profession  in  the  tea 
districts,  —  a  fine  art  which  requires  much  careful  prepara- 
tion. The  successful  "  taster  "  must  abstain  from  the  use 
of  all  intoxicants,  from  tobacco,  and  from  condiments  that 
have  a  tendency  to  vitiate  the  senses  of  taste  and  smell,  for 
on  his  acute  perceptions  and  judgment  the  season's  profits 
largely   depend.       The    occupation   is    very  trying    to   the' 


Canton,   China  371 

constitution,  and  is  almost  certain  to  break  down  the  health 
of  the  taster  if  too  long  continued.  Some  celebrated  tea- 
tasters  have  realized  from  ^10,000  to  ^50,000  for  a  single 
season's  profits. 

The  famous  Har-Chwang-Sze,  or  "  Temple  of  the 
Ocean  Banners,"  is  a  magnificent  pile  of  beautifully  carved 
marble  and  stone,  whose  interior  decorations  are  rich  in 
scarlet  and  gold  lacquers  and  wonderful  wood-carvings. 
It  is  the  finest  and  richest  temple  in  this  section  of  China, 
and  has  a  hundred  and  eighty  priests  on  its  staff.  Its 
patrons  are  fishermen  and  seafaring  people,  who  come  to 
its  shrine,  asking  for  good  weather  at  sea  and  for  a  pros- 
perous voyage,  and  who,  on  their  return,  bring  the  thank- 
offerings  which  swell  its  coffers. 

Hundreds  of  women,  girls,  and  boys  find  employment  in 
the  matting  factories,  where  all  is  bustle,  drive,  and  chatter. 
They  prepare  the  straw,  bleaching,  dyeing,  and  weaving 
it,  in  rude  looms,  thus  producing  the  beautiful  white  and 
figured  mattings  for  which  old  Canton  is  so  justly  famous. 

The  green-ginger  and  fruit-packing  establishments  also 
give  employment  to  thousands  of  these  poor  people,  whom 
we  saw  engaged  in  assorting,  scraping,  peeling,  and  boiling 
the  fruit,  or  root,  in  sugar;  while  others  were  just  as  busy 
filling,  cooling,  and  sealing  the  little  blue-and-white  vase- 
like jars,  that  find  their  way  to  our  tables  with  their  rich 
delicacies. 

The  public  flower-garden  is  rich  in  roses,  peonies,  and 
all  tropical  and  semi-tropical  flora,  and  the  wonderful 
dwarfed  specimens,  —  the  rookeries,  miniature  streams, 
cascades,  ponds,  and  waterfalls,  which  these  patient  toilers 
delight   in   producing. 

From  the  outside.  Canton  appears  to  be  a  great  expanse 
of  hipped-tiled  roofs,  relieved  by  three  pagodas,  the  square 


372      An   American   Cruiser  in  the  East 

granite  towers  of  the  pawn-shops,  a  very  few  old  trees,  and 
the  bamboo  fire-signal  stations,  which  rise  like  cages  in  the 
air.  Around  the  northern  side  of  the  city,  bare  hills, 
thirteen  hundred  feet  high,  are  almost  covered  with 
tombs  and  graves.  The  suburbs  of  Canton  are  as  interest- 
ing as  the  city  itself,  and  cover  a  space  of  about  ten  miles 
in  length. 

There  are  one  hundred  and  twenty-three  Buddhist  tem- 
ples in  Canton,  but  they  are  gaudy  and  more  noticeable  for 
their  filth  than  for  architectural  beauty. 

The  climate  is  remarkably  healthy,  and  Canton  is  singu- 
larly free  from  fevers  and  epidemics  ;  but  catarrh  and 
asthma  are  common.  The  heat  in  summer  is  oppressive, 
and  the  winter  nights  are  treacherous.  The  northeast 
monsoon  blows  from  October  until  March,  after  which 
the  southeast  monsoon  sends  up  the  mists  and  fogs.  The 
average  temperature  throughout  the  year  is  about  70°  Fah., 
and  the  average  rainfall  is  about  71  inches. 

The  people  of  this  old  city  are  noted  for  their  hostilitv  to 
foreigners,  and  serious  disturbances  might  occur  on  any  day 
if  foreign  visitors  would  notice  the  insults  off^ered  to  them, 
but  by  "  not  seeing,"  bad  feelings  are  allaved  and  disturb- 
ances warded  ofF.  The  foreign  residences  have,  more 
than  once,  been  attacked  by  mobs  who  could  only  be  sup- 
pressed by  force  of  arms.  Canton  was  besieged  by  a  rebel 
force  in  1844-45,  and  it  is  believed  that  after  the  repulse 
more  than  one  million  people  perished  in  the  province. 

The  city  is  admirably  located  for  a  great  commercial 
port,  and  for  centuries  it  has  been  a  noted  place.  Its  near- 
ness to  the  sea,  its  central  location,  the  prevalence  of  the 
monsoons,  and  the  fact  that  the  millions  of  people  who 
reside  upon  its  tributary  territory  can  be  reached  by  the 
rivers  and  canals,  seem  to  assure  its  situation. 

The  Arabs  were  well  acquainted  with  the  place  and 
\'isited  it  in  the   ninth   century,  bringing  their  religion  and 


Canton,   China 


?>!?> 


building  their  mosques.  In  the  sixteenth  century  the  Portu- 
guese came  in  for  a  share  of  the  trade.  In  the  seventeenth 
century  they  were  followed  by  the  Dutch,  and  from  the 
latter  part  of  the  same  century  the  enterprising  East  India 
Company  carried  on  an  immense  traffic  with  this  port. 

At  sunset  all  business  ceases,  the  city  gates  are  closed, 
and  the  bustling,  busy  streets  are  quiet  and  deserted.  The 
general   feeling  of  distrust  and   insecurity  among    the  na- 


The  Water-Front  of  Old  Canton. 
The  Junks  all  in  for  the  Chinese  New  Year. 

tives   renders   it   necessary  to  barricade  every  shop  at  dusk, 
and  to  put  it  in  condition  to  withstand  a  siege. 

The  first  sign  of  the  Chinese  New  Year  is  the  gathering 
of  the  junks,  which  come  in  from  all  directions.  New 
scarlet  flags  are  thrown  to  the  breezes,  and  scarlet  papers, 
having  happy  passages  from  the  sages  painted  upon  them, 
ace  pasted  on  bows  and  masts.  Houses  are  cleaned  and 
made    bright,  and    the   scarlet    papers   are   pasted  on  walls, 


374     ^^^  American   Cruiser  in  the  East 

doorposts,  and  lintels.  Cakes  and  sweets,  and  all  the 
toothsome  wonders  of  the  Celestial  culinary  art,  are  produced. 
The  coolie  stops  work,  and  the  people  appear  in  their  best 
clothes.  Settlements  are  made  and  debts  are  paid,  so  that 
all  business  transactions  are  settled  and  closed.  Occasion- 
ally a  cracker  or  bomb  is  exploded,  like  the  lonely  blasts 
on  the  tin  horn  by  our  urchins  at  home, — just  to  let  the 
world  know  the  New  Year  is  coming.  As  night  advances, 
the  din  increases.  Sampans  and  boats  move  down  and  up 
the  river,  with  crackers  firing,  rockets  ricochetting,  drums 
and  gongs  beating,  and  the  whole  river  and  plain  becomes 
a  pandemonium  of  glaring  lights,  sounds,  and  fires. 

Suddenly  a  great  sheet  of  red  flame  bursts  forth  and 
licks  and  lashes  the  heavens,  —  dense  black  smoke  and 
volumes  of  hissing  sparks  curl  and  fly.  The  great  guns 
boom,  the  bells  ring  out  the  fearful  alarm,  and  the  people 
shriek  and  curse  and  run.  A  lighted  cracker  had  fallen 
among  some  waste  stuff,  and  for  three  mortal  hours  the 
cruel,  relentless,  massive  tongues  of  red  flame  snapped  and 
roared  and  cracked ;  while  through  and  above  them, 
myriads  of  bright  hissing  sparks  arose  and  danced  and  fell. 
High  up  in  the  heavens,  a  great  bank  of  black  smoke  curled 
and  rolled  itself  about,  and  hung  like  an  awful  pall  over  the 
doomed  place.  The  revellers  were  appalled,  the  noises 
ceased,  and  the  river  regained  its  usual  quiet.  The  voices 
of  the  firemen  and  the  shrieks  of  the  women  could  be 
heard  amid  the  roaring  flames,  and  the  pulse-beating  sounds 
from  the  great  steam-pumps  which  were  sending  streams 
of  water  from  the  river-front.  The  efi-'orts  of  the  stalwart 
fellows,  with  their  little  wooden  hand-pumps  and  buckets, 
and  the  help  of  the  great  streams  from  the  steamers,  were 
unavailing.  Thousands  of  houses  and  their  contents  had 
gone  up  in  the  flames  which  were  urged  on  by  the  cruel 
monsoon.  Acres  of  shapeless  heaps  of  bricks  marked  the 
spot,  and    ten   thousand    men,  women,  and    children  were 


Canton,   China  375 

homeless  wanderers  on  this  festal  night,  this  New  Year's 
Eve. 

"  The  world  laughs  with  him  who  laughs, 
But  he  who  weeps  must  weep  alone." 

After  the  lull,  a  bomb,  a  cracker,  a  rocket,  gong,  or  drum, 
and  the  revelry  was  renewed  upon  the  river.  Bombs  and 
rockets  were  sent  up  from  boat  and  city,  and  cracked  and 
flashed  and  sparkled  in  the  air.  The  jolly  mirth  of  the  glad 
went  on  through  the  night  ;  and  the  next  ten  nights  and 
days  were  given  over  to  feasting  and  drinking  and  joy  for 
the  glad  New  Year.  All  business,  public  and  private,  is 
suspended,  for  these  days  the  mails,  the  banks,  everything, 
is  at  a  standstill  during  the  holiday. 

Canton  has  maintained  her  own  army  and  navy,  made 
and  repelled  attacks,  and  exercised  all  the  functions  of 
sovereignty  in  her  own  rights,  in  the  years  that  are  gone. 
The  chief  exports  from  Canton  are  tea,  silk,  sugar,  and 
cassia,  and  the  chief  imports  are  cotton,  woollen,  and  metal 
goods,  food  stuffs,  opium,  and  kerosene. 

The  total  value  of  the  trade  is  $42,280,752,  of  which 
1^22,328,632  are  imports.  The  domestic  trade  is  enor- 
mous, but  no  account  of  it  is  kept.  There  are  3,316  vessels 
entering  and  clearing  the  port  each  year. 


CHAPTER    XXII 

THE     GOVERNMENT     AND      PEOPLE      OF     CHINA 

KUANG-SII,  Emperor  of  China,  is  the  son  of  Prince 
Ch'un,  the  seventh  son  of  the  Emperor  Tae  Kuang, 
and  is  a  cousin  of  the  late  Emperor  Tung  Chi,  who  died 
from  small-pox  on  January  I2,  1875.  The  present 
Emperor  is  the  ninth  of  the  Tartar  dynasty  of  Tu-tsing, 
"  Sublime  Purity,"  which  succeeded  the  native  Ming 
dynasty  in  1644.  There  is  no  law  of  hereditary  succession 
to  the  throne,  each  Emperor  naming  his  successor  from 
among  the  members  of  his  own  family.  The  late  Emperor, 
dying  suddenly,  in  the  eighteenth  year  of  his  age,  did  not 
designate  a  successor,  but  by  an  arrangement  directed  by 
the  Empress  Dowager  and  Prince  Ch'un,  the  son  of  the 
latter  was  declared  Emperor  by  proclamation,  of  which  the 
following  is  a  translation  :  — 

*'  Whereas,  His  Majesty  the  Emperor  has  ascended  upon 
the  Dragon  to  be  a  guest  on  high,  without  offspring  born  to 
his  inheritance,  no  course  has  been  open  but  that  of  causing 
Tsai  Tien,  son  of  the  Prince  Ch'un,  to  become  adopted 
as  the  son  of  the  Emperor  Weng  Tsung  Hien  (Hien 
Fung),  and  to  enter  upon  the  inheritance  of  the  great 
dynastic  line  as  Emperor  by  succession.  Therefore,  let 
Tsai  Tien,  son  of  Yih  Huan,  the  Prince  of  Ch'un,  become 
adopted  as  the  son  of  the  Emperor  Weng  Tsung  Hien,  and 
enter  upon  the  inheritance  of  the  great  dynastic  line  as 
Emperor  by  succession." 


Government  and  People  of  China      377 

The  Emperor  Kuang-Sii  assumed  the  government  in 
February,  1887,  was  married  to  Yeh-ho-na-la,  a  niece  of 
the  Empress  Dowager  on  February  26,  1889,  and  ascended 
the  throne  on  March  4,  1890. 

The  government  of  China  is  that  of  an  absolute  mon- 
archy.  The  Emperor  is  spiritual  as  well  as  temporal  lord 
and  master  of  his  people.  He  is  regarded  as  the  representa- 
tive of  Deitv,  "  the  Son  of  Heaven,"  and  he  alone  with 
his  ministers  can  perform  the  great  religious  ceremonies  as 
High-Priest.  No  other  ecclesiastical  authority  is  recognized 
in  the  state,  neither  is  any  priesthood  maintained  at  the  pub- 
lic cost. 

The  Constitution,  or  fundamental  laws  of  the  Empire, 
is  recorded  in  the  Tu-tsing  Huei-tien,  "  Collected  Regula- 
tions of  the  Great  Pure  Dynasty,"  in  which  the  govern- 
ment of  the  state  is  based  upon  that  of  the  family. 

The  Interior  Council  has  supreme  authority  in  the 
administration  of  the  government,  and  is  composed  of  four 
members,  two  of  Tartar  and  two  of  Chinese  origin,  with 
two  legal  advisers  from  the  Han-lin,  "  Great  College," 
whose  duty  it  is  to  see  that  nothing  is  done  contrary  to  the 
laws  of  the  Empire  as  contained  in  the  "  Collected  Regula- 
tions," and  in  the  books  of  Confucius.  The  members 
of  the  Interior  Council  are  called  Ta-Hsis-sz,  Ministers  of 
State,  and  they  are  assisted  bv  the  Li-Pu,  eight  boards  of 
government,  who  are  under  their  immediate  control.  Each 
of  these  eight  boards  of  government  is  presided  over  by  a 
Tartar  and  a  Chinese,  and  a  censor  must  always  be  present 
at  their  meetings. 

The  Boards  are:  i.  The  Board  of  Civil  Appointments; 
2.  The  Board  of  Revenue;  3.  The  Board  of  Rites  and 
Ceremonies  ;  4.  The  Military  Board  ;  5.  The  Board  of  Pub- 
lic Works  ;  6.  The  Board  of  Criminal  Jurisdiction;  7.  The 
Board  of  Admiralty  ;  8.  The  Board  of  Foreign  Affairs. 


37^      An  American   Cruiser  in  the  East 

The  Tu-cha-Yuan,  "  Board  of  Public  Censors,"  is  inde- 
pendent of  the  government,  and  theoretically  is  above  the 
administration.  It  consists  of  about  fifty  members,  and  has 
two  presiding  officers,  one  of  Manchu  and  the  other  of 
Chinese  birth.  By  ancient  custom  of  the  Empire,  all  the 
members  of  this  Board  have  the  right  of  presenting 
remonstrances  to  the  Emperor.  The  divisibility  of  the 
absolute  power  takes  from  it  much  of  its  danger,  and  pub- 
lic opinion,  backed  by  the  protests  of  the  censors,  pre- 
vents the  Emperor  from  violating  the  rights  of  the  subject. 
The  censors  have  often  protested  with  a  freedom  and  vigor 
worthy  of  all  praise. 

According  to  Confucius  and  his  followers,  the  Empire  is 
solely  under  the  guidance  of  Heaven  :  "  Heaven  is  the  only 
master  of  the  nation."  The  sovereignty  is  a  holy  mission 
committed  to  an  individual  for  the  good  of  the  people,  and 
it  is  withdrawn  from  him  when  he  shows  himself  unworthy 
of  the  high  trust.  In  times  of  revolution,  the  conflicts  have 
been  terrible  until  some  decided  advantage  has  been  gained, 
and  the  people,  believing  that  Heaven  had  withdrawn  its 
smiles  from  its  adopted  son  and  shown  the  sign  of  a  new 
power,  have  submitted  to  that  authority  without  further 
question. 

The  Emperor,  being  the  Son  of  Heaven,  is  father  of  his 
people,  and  has  a  right  to  the  worship  of  his  subjects.  He 
is  absolute,  can  make  and  abolish  the  laws,  make  or  degrade 
officials,  and  has  the  power  of  life  and  death.  He  is  the 
source  of  all  power  and  authority,  and  can  command  the 
entire  revenues  of  the  Empire.  The  Emperor  is  sole 
proprietor  of  the  soil  and  can  recover  possession  for 
non-payment  of  taxes,  or  by  confiscation,  —  for  crimes 
committed  against  the  state.  The  sovereign  can  trans- 
mit his  power  to  whomsoever  he  pleases,  as  there  is  no  law 
of  inheritance  to  restrain  him;  and,  being  the  father  of  an 
immense  family,  he  delegates  his  powers  to  his  ministers, 


Government  and  People  of  China      379 

who,  in  turn,  appoint  the  inferior  officers  of  the  government. 
This  division  of  authority  extends  downwards  to  groups  of 
families,  of  which  the  fathers  are  the  natural  heads,  and  just 
as  absolute  within  their  sphere. 

The  Emperors,  after  death,  like  the  ancient  Egyptian 
Kings,  are  subject  to  a  trial,  the  verdict  of  which,  coupled 
with  their  names,  goes  down  to  future  generations.  By 
this  means  they  become  known  in  history,  and  the  verdict 
gives  the  estimate  of  their  character. 

The  literary  aristocracy  is  an  ancient  institution  which 
has  become  firmly  established,  and  gives  the  government 
all  its  real  and  direct  influence.  Its  numbers  are  increased 
each  year  by  the  examinations.  Its  members  are  a  privi- 
leged class, —  almost  the  only  nobility  recognized  ;  and  it 
is  considered  to  be  the  nerve  and  mainstay  of  the  Empire, 
and  appointments  to  civil  officers  can  only  be  made  from 
among  its  members,  under  well-established  laws.  Any 
Chinese  may  present  himself  for  examination  for  the  third 
degree.  Those  who  are  successful  may  take  the  second, 
which  opens  the  way  to  the  minor  offices.  Those  who 
aspire  to  the  higher  offices  must  have  been  successful  for 
the  first  degree. 

The  only  hereditary  titles  of  nobility  acknowledged  in 
China  are  those  of  the  Imperial  family  and  the  descendants 
of  Confucius,  to  whom  certain  prerogatives  and  a  small 
pension  are  allowed.  They  have  the  right  to  wear  a 
scarlet  or  yellow  corselet,  plumes  of  peacock  feathers  in 
the  hat,  and  to  have  a  certain  number  of  chair-bearers,  but 
they  cannot  be  appointed  to  any  office  without  having 
taken  the  literary  degrees.  For  the  most  part,  they  li\'e 
under  the  government  and  control  of  a  private  tribunal, 
which  has  cognizance  of  their  behavior ;  and,  as  a  rule, 
they  live  in  idleness  on  the  small  allowance  granted  to 
them  by  the  government,  being  too  indolent  to  prepare  for 
the  examinations,  and  too  proud   to   do   any  useful   thing. 


380     An   American   Cruiser  in  the  East 

They  spend  their  time  in  swaggering  and  strutting  about  in 
their  tattered  finery,  to  the  infinite  disgust  of  their  neighbors. 

Distinguished  civil  and  military  officers  may  be  rewarded 
with  the  rank  and  titles  of  koung,  heon,  phy,  tze,  and  nau, 
which  about  equal  those  of  duke,  marquis,  count,  baron, 
and  knight.  These  are  not  hereditary,  and  give  no  rights 
to  the  son  of  the  person  rewarded,  but  they  may  be  carried 
back  to  the  ancestors.  An  officer  who  has  been  raised  in 
rank  cannot  perform  the  ancestral  rites  of  his  family  in  a 
suitable  manner  unless  his  ancestors  have  been  decorated 
with  a  corresponding  or  a  higher  title.  For  a  son  to  have 
higher  rank  than  his  father  would  undermine  the  principle 
of  filial  piety,  and  attack  the  fundamental  laws  of  the 
Empire. 

All  offices,  civil  and  military,  are  divided  into  nine 
grades  or  ranks,  —  "  khion-ping."  These  ranks  are  dis- 
tinguished by  buttons  or  balls,  about  the  size  of  a  pigeon's 
egg,  worn  on  the  centre  of  the  crown  of  the  official  hat. 
The  balls  are  of  plain  red  coral  for  the  first  grade,  a  carved 
blue  stone  for  the  second,  a  translucent  deep  coral  stone 
for  the  third,  a  pale  blue  for  the  fourth,  crystal  for  the 
fifth,  an  opaque  white  stone  for  the  sixth,  and  a  gilt  and 
wrought  copper  ball  for  the  seventh,  eighth,  and  ninth 
grades.  Each  order  is  divided  into  two  classes,  —  active 
officials  and  supernumeraries,  or  "  honorary  ;  "  but  the  deco- 
rations are  the  same  for  both.  All  the  officials  included  in 
these  grades  are  called  "  konang-fu."  The  term  "  man- 
darin "  is  unknown  to  the  Chinese,  it  being  derived  from 
"  mandra,"  an  abbreviation  of  the  title  "commander,"  which 
the  Portuguese  are  believed  to  have  applied  to  Chinese 
officials  in  the  early  days.  The  administration  of  affairs 
is  divided  into  three  parts,  —  that  of  the  Empire,  of 
Peking,  and   of  the  Provinces. 

Filial  piety  is  believed  to  have  held  together  this  nation 
of  over  four  hundred  millions  of  people  for  ages.      Every- 


Government  and   People  of  China      381 

thing  is  done  to  increase  the  strength  of  this  sentiment, — 
to  make  it  a  passion  among  the  people  that  will  serve 
as  the  moral  support  of  public  and  private  life.  Every 
virtuous  action  is  referred  to  as  an  act  of  filial  piety,  and 
every  crime  is  treated  as  filial  disobedience.  "  To  be 
a  good  subject  is  to  be  a  good  son  ;  to  be  a  bad  subject  is 
to  be  a  bad  son."  Every  good  action  reflects  credit  upon 
the  parents  and  honors  them,  while  every  bad  action  brings 
dishonor  upon  them.  Chinese  parents  are  looked  up  to 
as  superior  beings,  and  they  are  called  gods  by  very  high 
authority.  The  Sacred  Edict,  "  Shing-gu,"  forbids  the 
people  to  gad  about  to  the  temples,  worshipping  the  idols 
and  flattering  the  gods,  but  teaches  them  to  remember  the 
two  household  gods  at  home  —  father  and  mother — and 
serve  them.  Great  stress  is  laid  upon  these  in  the  educa- 
tion of  the  young.  Thev  are  instructed  in  these  from 
their  earliest  years,  and  any  outrage  committed  against 
a  parent  is  punished  with  death.  The  father  has  absolute 
power  of  life  and  death  over  his  children. 

The  laws  of  China  are  severe.  For  small  offences, 
corporal  punishment  is  inflicted,  generallv  with  the  bamboo, 
and  serious  crimes  are  nearly  always  punished  with  death. 
Forms  and  ceremonies  receive  close  attention,  and  every 
action  of  life  may  be  inquired  into  by  the  authorities. 
The  courts  are  very  severe  upon  disturbers  of  the  peace 
and  upon  thieves.  The  ordinarv  punishments  are  fines, 
blows  on  the  face,  the  bastinado,  the  caugue,  the  iron  cage, 
exile  into  Tartary,  and  death  by  strangulation  or  decapita- 
tion. Rebels  and  parricides  are  cut  in  pieces,  and  pirates 
are  decapitated.  Punishments  are  usually  inflicted  swiftly, 
except  the  punishment  of  death,  which  must  be  approved 
by  the   Emperor. 

Women  are  in  a  degraded  condition.  They  are  not 
permitted  to  sit  at  table,  or  to  eat  with  men.  When  walk- 
ing, the  woman  follows  the  man,  who  talks   to  her  over  his 


382     An  American   Cruiser  in  the  East 

shoulder.  It  is  said  that  about  one  woman  in  ten  thousand 
can  read.  There  are  good  schools  and  colleges  for  boys^ 
but  no  provision  is  made  for  girls  ;  even  the  birth  of  a 
girl  child  is  looked  upon  as  a  misfortune.  The  wife  is 
inferior  to  her  husband  except  in  her  domestic  position  ;  but 
if  she  arrives  at  old  age,  her  sons  and  their  wives  are 
entirely  subject  to  her,  and  unless  she  has  a  very  sweet 
disposition,  she  makes  the  unfortunate  daughters-in-law  pay 
dearly  for  her  own  rough  experiences. 

For  a  long  time  it  was  believed  that  such  charitable 
institutions  as  I  have  noted  in  old  Shanghai  and  Canton 
were  peculiar  to  Christian  lands  and  peoples,  but  the  dic- 
tates of  our  common  humanity  caused  their  foundation  in 
this  country   many  centuries  ago. 

The  manners,  customs,  language,  religion,  and  dress  of 
the  Chinese  mark  them  as  a  peculiar  people,  who  are  very 
conservative  and  dread  changes  of  any  kind.  They 
reached  a  very  high  state  of  civilization  ages  ago,  but  their 
further  progress  was  in  some  way  arrested,  and  until  very 
recently  they  actually  retrograded.  They  were  acquainted 
from  very  early  times  with  printing,  the  mariner's  compass, 
gunpowder,  the  circulation  of  the  blood,  and  many  arts, 
but  their  use  of  these  was  restricted.  They  do  not  think 
it  possible  to  be  wiser  than  their  fathers  were.  They  have 
very  little  sympathy  with  genius  or  originality,  and  talent 
is  strangled  by  conservatism.  They  are  a  nation  of  classic 
scholars,  indoctrined  in  old  methods  of  the  dead  past,  and 
they  expend  their  abilities  in  memorizing  and  moralizing 
upon  the  ancient  maxims.  While  the  world  has  been  ad- 
vancing with  giant  strides,  China  has  been  only  creeping 
along,  —  and  scarcely  that.  Some  innovations  have  been 
forced  upon  her,  and  others  she  has  adopted  in  a  half- 
hearted  manner. 

After  their  subjugation  by  the  Tartars,  the  Chinese  were 
compelled   to  change   their   dress   and   to  wear  the  queue. 


Government  and  People  of  China      383 

Many  patriotic  Chinese  preferred  death  to  this  degradation, 
but  now  the  queue  has  become  their  most  cherished  orna- 
ment. A  few  of  China's  great  men  have  been  struggling 
for  advancement  in  the  lines  of  western  sciences,  and  some 
young  men  have  been  sent  abroad  to  study  these  subjects. 
Efforts  have  been  made  to  establish  bankino-  and  commer- 
cial  houses  with  foreign  connections.  The  old  wooden 
war-junks  are  being  displaced  by  coast-defence  vessels, 
steel  cruisers,  and  torpedo  boats.  The  army  is  exchanging 
its  tactics,  pikes,  jingals,  and  banners  for  better  methods 
and  modern  rifles.  The  official  dress  is  being  modified. 
Extensive  dock-yards  and  iron-works  of  various  kinds  have 
been  introduced,  and  the  printing-press  and  sewing-machines 
are  working  their  way  into  the  country. 

Here  and  there,  an  innovation  that  proves  itself  useful 
and  good  is  adopted  ;  but  the  changes  are  slow,  and  so  few 
that  only  a  close  observer  notes  them.  A  ceremonious 
politeness,  which  seems  born  of  distrust,  pervades  all  con- 
ditions of  society,  —  even  while  the  pleasantest  words  are 
spoken.  A  mother  is  called  the  "  countenance  of  mercy," 
a  father,  the  "  countenance  of  severity,"  and  a  daughter, 
the  "thousand  pieces  of  gold."  The  people  are  vain  of 
their  personal  appearance  and  attire.  Even  the  coolie 
becomes  one  of  the  politest  of  men  when  well  dressed. 
He  swaggers,  with  umbrella  and  fan  in  hand,  and  rivals 
a  Japanese  in  the  profusion  of  his  bows  and  in  the  elegance 
of  his  behavior  with  his  acquaintances.  The  Chinese  are 
quiet,  orderly,  industrious,  and  punctual,  but  there  appears 
to  be  always  among  them  an  undercurrent  of  insincerity 
and   mutual  distrust. 

They  are  a  nation  of  born  traders.  Having  arranged 
their  wares  in  the  most  attractive  fashion,  they  patiently 
wait  for  a  customer,  always  with  an  eye  to  the  betterment 
of  their  fortunes.  The  smallest  profit  is  not  neglected,  and 
their  greatest  enjoyment  is  to  count  up  the   profit-and-loss 


384     An   American   Cruiser  in  the  East 

account  in  the  evening,  behind  barricaded  doors,  and  to 
find  the  profit  side  the  greater.  Trade,  traffic,  and  filial 
piety  are  taught  to  the  children  from  their  earliest  infancy. 
They  are  given  small  coins  and  taught  their  value  and 
importance.  They  are  so  well  trained  that  it  is  always 
safe  to  send  them  to  the  shops,  for  they  will  never  suffer 
themselves  to  be  cheated.  Thev  are  wide  awake  and 
knowing.  The  large  commercial  and  banking  houses  are 
remarkable  for  their  fidelity  to  their  engagements,  —  their 
word  is  their  bond,  and  may  be  relied  upon  implicitly. 
No  matter  what  the  loss  may  be,  though  it  may  bring 
ruin  upon  them,  an  agreement,  once  made,  is  adhered  to 
at  all   hazards. 

The  only  legal  coinage  existing  in  China  are  the  sub- 
sidiary silver  coins  made  in  Canton,  and  a  little  round 
piece  of  copper  alloy,  called  "tsein,"  and  by  foreigners, 
*'cash."  The  tsein,  or  cash,  have  a  square  hole  through 
their  centres  so  that  they  can  be  strung  together.  One 
thousand  of  them  are  nominally  worth  one  Mexican  dollar, 
but  their  actual  value  varies  with  the  rates  of  exchange. 
Frequently  thirteen  hundred  and  even  fifteen  hundred  tsein 
are  given  in  exchange  for  the  dollar.  The  Mexican  silver 
dollar  is  well  known  to  the  people,  and  thev  prefer  it  to 
any  other  money ;  but  bank-bills  of  the  prominent  banks  in 
Shanghai  and  Hong-kong  are  received  in  the  large  cities. 
The  Chinese  are  very  particular  about  the  money  they 
receive.  As  a  rule,  they  carry  little  balances  about  with 
them,  and  weigh  and  test  every  piece  of  money  before  the 
transaction  is  closed.  Some  of  these  tsein  are  made  of  a 
brittle  base  metal  that  can  be  broken,  in  case  a  smaller 
denomination  than  one  tenth  of  a  cent  is  needed. 

The  tsein  is  of  great  use  in  many  of  their  small  transac- 
tions ;  and  a  few  peanuts  or  melon  seeds,  a  dozen  fried 
beans,  a  cabbage  leaf,  a  cup  of  tea,  a  segment  or  two  of  an 
orange,  and  many  other  small  articles  may  be  had   for  one 


Government   and   People   of  China      385 

or  two  of  these  small  coins.  It  is  with  a  melancholy  in- 
terest that  we  note  the  thrifty  housewife  of  some  poor 
toiler,  counting  from  her  little  string  of  cash  the  two  or 
three  required  to  purchase  the  little  things,  just  enumerated, 
to  provide  her  husband  variety  with  his  rice. 

The  Chinese  have  no  division  of  time  corresponding  to 
our  weeks,  consequently  they  have  nothing  which  corre- 
sponds to  our  Sunday;  but  there  are  numerous  religious  and 
semi-religious  observances,  some  of  which  are  grotesque  in 
the  extreme.  As  a  rule,  the  Chinese  worship  at  the  tablets 
and  shrines  in  their  own  homes,  and  only  visit  the  temples 
when  they  feel  particularly  in  need  of  consolation.  Con- 
fucianism and  several  forms  of  Buddhism  are  the  most 
prevalent  religions  in  China ;  but  the  government  does  not 
give  active  support  to   any  system. 

The  Feast  of  Lanterns,  when  every  town,  village,  and 
house  is  illuminated  with  lanterns  and  gayly  decorated  in 
colors,  is  one  of  their  most  solemn  observances,  in  which 
the  whole  people  participate. 

The  Chinese  belong  to  the  Mongolian  race.  They  are 
of  shorter  stature  and  slighter  build  than  Americans,  and  are 
much  inferior  to  them  in  physical  endurance.  While 
there  are  certain  marked  characteristics  distinguishing  the 
Chinese  from  all  other  people,  it  is  a  mistake  to  suppose  that 
to  know  one  you  know  them  all.  The  dialect,  manners, 
and  customs  change  in  almost  every  town  ;  and  a  man  from 
the  north  is  as  much  a  stranger  in  one  of  the  southern  or 
interior  provinces  as  if  he  came  from  America.  The  coun- 
tenance, certain  national  prejudices,  the  mode  of  thought, 
and  the  written  language  are  remarkablv  alike,  but  there  are 
great  differences  in  dialect,  manners,  customs,  and  dress. 
It  must  be  remembered  that  this  vast  country  is  made  up 
of  a  number  of  kingdoms  that  have  been  separated  under 
various  rulers,  and  governed  by  their  own  legislation. 
Although  thev  have  been  more  than  once  united,  they  have 


386      An  American   Cruiser  in  the  East 

never  so  closely  assimilated  that  the  different  elements  were 
not  manifest. 

The  beginning  of  China's  history  is  lost  in  the  obscurity 
of  antiquity  with  no  traces  of  its  origin.  Other  nations 
have  some  traditions,  folk-lore,  monuments,  and  later  his- 
tory which  furnish  data  for  tracing  growth  and  progress  in 
civilization,  but  unless  these  can  be  solved  from  the  radicals 
of  their  remarkable  written  characters,  all  seems  to  be  lost 
in  China. 

The  cultured  classes  have  always  adhered  to  the  doctrines 
of  Confucius,  while  the  masses  have  followed  the  teachings 
of  Buddha.  The  former  is  an  intellectual  feast ;  the  latter 
appeals  to  the  senses. 

Four  thousand  years  ago,  China  was  called  Heaven,  and 
the  ruler  called  himself  God.  The  business  of  the  chief 
officers  was  to  light,  warm,  and  fertilize  this  Heaven  ;  and 
they  dressed  and  assumed  titles  corresponding  to  the  duties 
of  their  offices.  One  represented  the  sun,  another  the 
moon,  and  others  the  planets  with  which  they  were 
acquainted.  There  was  also  the  master  of  mountains,  of 
rivers,  of  forests,  and  of  fields,  —  a  pantheon  of  gods. 
Supernatural  authority  was  conceded  to  them,  and  the 
government  worked  beautifully,  —  for  themselves  ;  but  the 
appearance  of  comets  and  eclipses,  which  these  big  little 
gods  had  not  foretold  and  could  not  account  for,  ruined 
their  popularity.  Wars  and  rebellions  changed  this  govern- 
ment to  the  feudal  system,  and  that  to  the  monarchy. 
The  Chinese  have  had  long  and  bloody  religious  and 
political  wars. 

The  doctrines  of  Confucius  balance  the  imperial  power, 
and  may  be  called  the  Constitution  of  China  ;  while  the 
system  of  examinations  for  literary  degrees  and  its  appoint- 
ments to  office  has  put  the  government  into  the  hands  of 
the  educated,  and  made  the  unlearned  subject  to  the 
learned.      The    Tartars,   the    cold-blooded    men    from   the 


Government  and   People  of  China      387 

north,  have  frequently  set  this  law  aside ;  but  it  always 
resumes  its  sway,  as  the  Chinese  prefer  the  rule  of  the  pen 
to  that  of  the  sword. 

The  Chinese  have  changed  their  forms  of  government, 
and  have  tried  various  political  combinations.  Their  his- 
tory shows  about  the  same  experiences  as  that  of  most  old 
nations.  In  the  twelve  hundred  years  following  the  year 
420  A.  D.,  there  were  fifteen  changes  of  dynasty,  each 
accompanied  by  terrible  revolutions,  accomplished  by  the 
bloody  extermination  of  the  families  dethroned. 

According  to  the  official  reports,  the  population  of  China 
is  405,000,000,  one  third  of  the  human  race.  This  popu- 
lation, upon  an  area  of  1,600,000  square  miles,  gives  about 
263  inhabitants  to  each  square  mile.  The  general  appear- 
ance of  China  indicates  a  higher  proportion  of  inhabitants 
than  in  any  other  country.  The  towns,  roads,  and  rivers 
fairly  swarm  with  human  beings,  and  there  are  more  towns 
and  cities  of  hundreds  of  thousands  and  millions  of  inhab- 
itants than  in  any  other  country.  The  laws  provide  for  a 
system  of  registration,  and  severe  punishment  is  awarded 
to  delinquents.  The  population  of  China  is  arranged  under 
four  heads,  —  scholars,  agriculturists,  mechanics,  and  mer- 
chants. Stage-players,  gamblers,  beggars,  convicts,  outlaws, 
and  some  other  classes  are  considered  social  outcasts. 

The  steady  flow  of  emigration  from  China  is  a  very  strong 
indication  of  the  condition  of  the  country.  About  ten  mil- 
lions Chinese  are  located  in  foreign  countries.  They  are 
found  in  large  numbers  in  Korea,  Japan,  Hong-kong,  the 
Philippine  Islands,  Java,  the  Eastern  Archipelago,  Cochin- 
China,  Australia,  Africa,  the  Sandwich  Islands,  on  the 
western  coast  of  Central  and  South  America  in  the  West 
India  Islands,  in  Canada,  and  in  the  United  States. 

Without  the  wonderful,  patient,  unceasing  industry  one 
sees  on  every  hand,  it  would  be  impossible  to  find  the 
means  of  supporting  life  for  such   an   immense   population. 


388      An  American   Cruiser  in  the  East 

Labor  is  carefully  and  abundantly  bestowed  upon  all  pur- 
suits, —  agriculture,  manufactures,  fisheries,  and  trade. 
Villages,  valleys,  and  plains  are  carefully  cultivated,  irri- 
gated, and  fertilized ;  hills  and  mountains  are  terraced, 
and  every  square  foot  of  ground  that  can  be  made  productive 
is  brought  into  use.  The  profession  of  agriculture  has 
always  been  highly  honored  in  this  country.  Confucius 
and  the  sages  have  celebrated  and  exalted  it,  and  the 
Emperor  never  fails  to  render  it  homage.  Towards  the 
end  of  March,  each  vear,  the  Emperor  goes  in  state  to 
the  sacred  field,  accompanied  by  three  princes  of  the  blood 
royal  and  a  retinue  of  nobles.  After  having  offered  sacri- 
fice upon  the  earthen  altar,  he  lays  his  sacred  hands  upon 
the  plough  and  traces  a  furrow.  The  princes  and  nobles 
follow  his  example  and  complete  the  field.  Then  the 
Emperor,  as  high-priest,  blesses  the  work  and  the  field.  In 
the  provinces,  a  similar  solemnity  takes  place,  in  which  the 
Governor  represents  the  Emperor. 

Chinese  agriculture  is  rarely  conducted  on  a  large  scale, 
and  the  simplest  tools  are  used.  In  the  south,  buffaloes  are 
used  in  tilling  the  rice-fields ;  while  in  the  north,  oxen, 
horses,  mules,  and  asses  are  used,  and  it  is  a  common  sight 
to  see  a  woman  drawing  the  plough  while  the  husband 
walks  behind  and  guides  it.  At  the  end  of  the  furrow  they 
both  sit  down  to  rest  and  smoke  a  little  tobacco.  The 
Chinese  have  a  passion  for  fertilizing  the  soil,  and  this  is 
carried  to  great  extremes,  anything  and  everything  being 
used  for  the  purpose.  Even  barbers  save  the  shavings  and 
croppings  of  hair  to  sell  to  farmers  for  enrichment  of  the 
soil.  Farmers  often  use  the  spade  in  preference  to  the 
plough,  and  weeds  are  exterminated  as  their  dearest  foe. 
They  keep  their  places  in  beautiful  order,  and  the  neat 
appearance  of  their  little  lands  compels  the  admiration  of 
all  beholders. 

In   places  too  dry  for  rice,  sweet  yams   and  hemp  will 


Government  and   People  of  China      389 

be  raised,  and  useful  trees  are  planted  in  the  corners, — 
the  mulberry,  the  chestnut,  or  some  pines,  according  to 
the  turpentine. 

The  Chinese  farmer  is  nervous  about  his  crop,  his  margin 
of  profit  being  so  small  that  he  cannot  affbrd  to  lose.  He 
binds  several  stalks  of  rice  together  to  give  mutual  support 
against  the  winds,  he  arranges  little  sticks,  with  "  charmed  " 
strings  attached,  to  drive  the  birds  away,  and  each  field  has 
such  a  "  scarecrow  "  as  would  frighten  off  any  crow  that 
lives.  He  watches  the  weather,  and  when  it  is  too  hot  and 
dry  he  covers  up  his  plants  and  irrigates  the  land  ;  he  raises 
water  from  one  reservoir  to  another,  and  by  means  of 
bamboo  pipes  runs  it  about  his  fields,  —  even  up  the  moun- 
tain's sides.  Archimedes'  screw-pumps,  chain-pumps,  and 
bucket  water-wheels  are  his  implements ;  his  feet  supply 
the  power.  These  water-wheels  are  of  extreme  lightness, 
and  have  little  half-round  buckets  attached,  which  take  up 
the  water  and  pour  it  into  large  tanks,  from  whence  it  is 
run   over  the  fields. 

The  Chinese  do  not  know  what  worn-out  soil  is.  Some 
places  are  so  fertile  and  are  cultivated  with  so  much  care 
and  skill  that  three  or  four  crops  a  year  are  regularly 
gathered.  When  the  first  crop  is  well  along,  the  second  is 
sowed,  or  planted,  in  the  intervals  between  the  ridges,  and 
it  is  very  common  to  see  two  crops  in  the  same  field  at  the 
same  time. 

All  the  cereal  and  vegetable  productions  known  in 
Canada,  the  United  States,  or  Mexico,  and  many  that  we 
do  not  know,  are  found  in  China.  Barley,  wheat,  buck- 
wheat, and  maize  are  cultivated  in  the  northern  part,  and 
rice  in  the  southern  part,  besides  a  score  or  more  in  both. 
Rice  is  not  the  principal  food  of  the  inhabitants  throughout 
the  Empire.  Wheat,  buckwheat,  Indian  corn,  and  barley, 
form  the  daily  food  of  the  people  in  the  northern  and  west- 
ern provinces,  while  rice  is  extensively  used  in  the  south. 


39 


o     An  American   Cruiser  in  the  East 


The  method  of  preparing  these  cereals  for  food  is  about 
the  worst  that  could  be  conceived.  Little  bunches  of 
dough  are  boiled  in  oil,  or  grease,  and  a  half-cooked  paste, 
strings  of  boiled  dough,  and  rolls  of  putty-like  material,  that 
would  be  irritating  to  the  stomach  of  an  ostrich,  are  regarded 
as  appetizing  by  these  poor  people. 

The  bamboo  is  the  most  useful  tree  that  grows  in  China, 
and  there  are  said  to  be  sixty-three  varieties.  These  differ 
in  diameter,  height,  distance  of  separation  of  the  rings  or 
sections,  color  and  thickness  of  the  wood,  and  in  the  roots, 
branches,  and  leaves.  The  bamboo  is  used  for  houses, 
fences,  furniture,  water-pipes,  and  for  hundreds  of  useful 
and   ornamental   purposes. 

The  beds  of  rivulets,  marshes,  and  ponds  are  planted 
with  tubers,  water-lilies,  and  lotus.  The  cultivation  of  vege- 
tables and  fruits  receives  great  attention  and  is  encouraged 
by  the  government.  Among  the  agricultural  products  of 
China  we  find,  besides  rice  and  tea,  the  wax-tree,  camphor- 
tree,  paper  mulberry,  the  tallow-tree,  varnish-tree,  dragon's 
eye,  star  anise  and  jujube,  many  species  of  orange,  cinna- 
mon, ginseng,  cotton,  sugar,  and  tobacco,  —  the  whole 
range  of  vegetables  and  fruits,  and  a  very  large  number  of 
flowers. 

The  manufacturing  industry  of  the  country  is  as  wonder- 
ful as  it  is  necessary  for  the  support  of  the  dense  population. 
The  silks,  satins,  crapes,  embroideries,  and  gauzes  have 
always  attracted  attention.  The  porcelains  have  only  been 
equalled  in  the  last  few  years,  and  the  cottons  and  nankeens 
are  famous.  The  many  useful  and  ornamental  articles  of 
bamboo  attract  attention,  and  the  furniture,  instruments, 
and  tools  are  commended  for  simplicity.  The  cunningly 
wrought  and  cast  metal-work  of  the  Chinese,  their  musical 
instruments,  and  their  art  in  cutting  and  polishing  hard 
stones  are  well  known  throughout  the  world.  Thev  are 
unrivalled  in  the  production  of  unchanging  colors,  but  they 


Government  and  People  of  China      391 

are  losing  their  originality  and  cunning  in  this  direction  ; 
many  specimens  of  antique  manufacture  far  surpass  the 
work   that  can   now  be  done. 

Owing  to  the  pressure  of  the  dense  population  upon  the 
means  of  subsistence,  the  Chinese  eat  anything  and  every- 
thing from  which  they  can  derive  nutrition.  Drunkenness 
is  uncommon  in  China.  Tea  is  universally  used.  They 
have  native  wines,  but  these  are  too  expensive  for  common 


CamI'.l  Caravan  Buumj  i-ou  FiiKing,  China. 


use.  The  people  are  temperate  in  all  things,  and  unless 
working  hard  are  content  with  two  meals  a  day,  —  the 
morning  rice  at  about  ten  a.  m.,  and  the  evening  rice  at 
about  five  p.  M.  Thev  do  not  use  milk,  butter,  or  cream. 
Dogs  and  cats  are  regularly  sold  for  food.  I  have  seen 
dogs  skinned,  hanging  by  the  side  of  pigs  and  goats.  Mon- 
keys, sea-slug,  and  birds'  nests  are  aristocratic  dishes,  and 
unhatched  ducks  and  chickens  are  much  sought  after. 

An  immense   internal   traffic  is  carried   on   by  means  of 
the  numerous  rivers  and   canals,  and  over  the  roads.     The 


392      An  American   Cruiser  in  the  East 

roads  are  mere  bridle-paths  and  tracks,  and  the  transporta- 
tion of  goods  over  them  —  on  the  backs  of  horses  and 
mules  —  is  a  very  slow  and  difficult  undertaking.  In  times 
of  crop-failure  and  famine,  the  loss  of  life  is  fearful  from 
the  difficulty   of  getting  food  supplies  to  the  sufferers. 

The  densely  populated  portion  of  China  is  compara- 
tively level,  and  is  remarkably  well  adapted  for  the  con- 
struction of  railroads  ;  but  the  Chinese,  even  in  view  of  the 
great  advantages  to  be  thus  obtained,  seem  unable  to  con- 
quer their  prejudices  against  these  conveniences.  The 
little  railroad,  only  about  ten  miles  long,  connecting 
Woosung  with  Shanghai,  constructed  by  a  foreign  company 
in  1876,  was  bought  out  and  destroyed  by  the  Chinese 
during  the  next  year.  The  Kaiping  Coal  Company 
built  a  line  of  railway  from  their  mines  to  the  canal  bank, 
afterwards  extending  it  through  Tientsin  to  Fungchow, 
near  Peking.  This  is  being  extended  from  Tientsin  to 
Shan-hai-kwan,  and  is  used  for  passenger  as  well  as  freight 
traffic.  Railway  lines  have  been  authorized  by  the  gov- 
erment  to  extend  from  New  Chwang  to  Luisi,  and  from 
Hankow  to  Peking,  but  not  much  bevond  the  surveys  has 
been  accomplished. 

All  the  important  cities  of  the  Empire  are  connected 
by  telegraph  and   with  the  outside  world  by  cable. 

The  public  revenue  of  China  is  about  three  hundred 
and  sixty  millions  of  dollars,  and  there  are  almost  always 
deficits,  which  must  be  covered  by  extraordinary  taxation, 
although  everything  is  cheap  and  the  government  has  no 
large  debts.  The  total  number  of  foreign  residents  in 
China  is  10,149,  of  whom  1,526  are  natives  of  the  United 
States. 

The  principal  dependencies  of  China  are  Mongolia 
and  Manchuria,  which  contain  a  larger  Chinese  than 
native  population.  Thibet  is  also  a  dependency,  subject 
to  the  government  at   Peking,  and  a  Resident  is  maintained 


Government   and   People  of  China      393 

at  Lhassa.  These  dependencies  have  an  area  of  two  and 
one  third  millions  of  square  miles,  and  a  population  of 
about  twenty-three  millions  of  inhabitants. 

The  Chinese  army  has  a  total  of  one  million  men, 
including  678  companies  of  Tartar  troops,  211  companies 
of  Mongols  and  native  Chinese  (militia)  infantry.  The 
first  grand  division  is  composed  of  Manchus,  —  the  troops 
of  the  "•  Eight  Banners,"  who  garrison  all  the  large  cities 
and  forts  throughout  the  Empire.  The  second  grand 
division  is  composed  of  Chinese,  who,  when  not  on  active 
duty,  live  in  their  own  homes,  and  follow  some  civil 
occupation.  With  the  dense  population  of  China,  and 
the  system  of  registration,  the  army  can  be  increased  almost 
indefinitely  in  numbers. 

The  army  seems  to  be  uncared  for.  It  is  badly  or- 
ganized, drilled,  and  armed  ;  and  while  there  are  some  well- 
fortified  strongholds  in  China,  it  is  not  possible  for  them 
to  withstand  successfully  a  determined  assault  or  siege  by 
any  modern  army. 

China  evidently  relies  upon  her  vast  numbers,  her  dis- 
tance from  any  strong  power  likely  to  attack  her,  and  the 
consummate  ability  of  her  ministers  ;  but  she  cannot  afford 
to  slumber  thus  in  the  face  of  the  possibility  of  mobs  and 
revolutions  within  her  own  borders,  and  with  neighbors 
who  are  restless  under  restraints  which,  they  think,  hinder 
their  development  and  infringe  upon  the  rights  of  their 
subjects.  Diplomacy  is  always  more  potent  when  sup- 
ported by   an  efficient   force. 

Until  the  year  1884  the  Chinese  navy  consisted  of  a 
number  of  wooden  war-junks,  and  a  few  small  steel  gun- 
boats of  foreign  style,  which  were  built  at  the  Mamori  dock- 
yard, Shanghai,  and  at  Foochow.  Since  that  time,  the 
navy  has  been  greatly  strengthened.  The  greatest  improve- 
ment is  found  to  be  in  the  northern  fleet,  which  now  in- 
cludes ten  armored  steel  vessels  of  from   3,000  to    10,000 


394     ^^^  American   Cruiser  in  the  East 

tons,  having  the  most  powerful  machinery  and  modern 
breech-loading  guns.  There  are  also  many  steel  cruisers, 
and  gun  and  torpedo  boats  of  the  latest  design  ;  but  the 
weak  points  of  the  navy  are  in  its  personnel.  The  officers 
of  many  of  these  splendid  vessels  are  composed  of  natives 
and  foreigners,  and  there  is  very  poor  discipline  among  the 
crews.  The  foreigners  are  to  supplement  the  want  of 
knowledge  on  the  part  of  the  natives,  who  do  not  com- 
prehend the  possibilities  of  the  great  fighting  machines, 
and  therefore  do  not  absolutely  command  them.  No 
doubt,  in  case  of  need,  there  will  be  some  splendid  fight- 
ing and  heroic  deeds,  —  for  the  Chinese  are  brave  men,  — 
but  there  will  be  faulty  handling  and  manoeuvring. 

Port  Li  (changed  from  Lu-Shew-kow,  in  honor  of  the 
viceroy,  Li  Hung  Chang),  situated  on  the  southern  coast 
of  Shing-king,  has  been  built  up  as  a  great  naval  station 
and  dock-yard  for  the  new  fleet,  and  has  been  strongly 
fortified.  There  is  also  an  excellent  school  where  young 
men  are  educated   in  modern   naval   science. 

Every  variety  of  soil  and  climate,  in  every  degree  of 
altitude,  are  to  be  found  within  the  boundaries  of  China, — 
from  the  heated  swamps  below  the  sea-level  to  the  region  of 
everlasting  frosts  beyond  the  snow-line ;  and  in  these  varied 
climates  everything  for  the  comfort  of  man  can  be  produced. 

Facility  of  communication  by  natural  and  artificial  water- 
ways is  not  exceeded  in  any  country  of  the  world,  and 
the  mineral  resources  rival  those  of  our  great  western  States. 
Iron  ore  is  found  in  every  province,  and  is  so  common 
that  only  the  finest  black  magnetic  ore  is  used  ;  while  gold, 
silver,  tin,  copper,  and  lead  are  plentiful. 

Sharpened  by  competition,  the  mental  capacities  of  the 
people  are  wonderful ;  their  higher  examinations  are  equal 
to  anv  intellectual  tasks  set  in  America  or  Europe.  Their 
statesmen   hold  their  own  with  any  in  the  world,  and  their 


Government  and  People  of  China      395 

merchants  gain  ground  over  those  of  other  nations. 
Their  common  people  are  painstaking,  shrewd,  and  docile, 
and  have  great  love  of  order  and  respect  for  authority. 
Education  among  the  males  is  common,  and  they  possess 
all  the  factors  requisite  for  success.  This  people  have 
always  been  the  ruling  race  in  the  far  East,  but  lost  their 
prestige  by  failing  to  keep  up  with  modern  improvements. 
It  is  not  characteristic  of  the  Chinese  to  remain  stationary 
or  to  move  slowly,  but  it  is  the  result  of  circumstances,  — 
the  policy  of  their  rulers. 

They  have  adopted  some  improvements  that  commend 
themselves.  The  Buddhist  religion  is  an  importation  from 
India,  and  quite  a  number  of  Chinese  are  Mahometans. 
Nearly  two  thousand  years  ago  the  decimal  system  of 
notation  was  introduced  by  the  Buddhists,  and  they  changed 
the  ancient  custom  of  writing  from  top  to  bottom  for  the 
Indian  system  of  from  right  to  left.  They  rearranged  their 
calendar  to  accord  with  the  ideas  of  western  astronomers, 
and  in  recent  years  they  have  republished  many  works  by 
foreign  authors.  Hospitals  and  free  schools  have  flourished 
for  more  than  a  thousand  years,  and  vaccination  is  practised 
by  native  physicians. 

Extensive  arsenals  have  been  established  at  various  places 
and  there  is  a  large  powder  manufactory  at  Tientsin.  The 
government  is  purchasing  and  building  powerful  war  vessels 
of  the  most  improved  types,  and  is  beginning  to  arm  and 
drill  their  forces  after   modern   ideas. 

The  Chinese  are  a  progressive  people.  They  have  all 
the  mental,  moral,  and  religious  instincts  of  our  nature,  with 
a  keen  perception  of  things  conduci\'e  to  their  interests  and 
no  prejudices  to  prevent  their  adoption.  Some  of  the 
statesmen  fully  realize  the  conditions,  —  the  trend  of  these 
times,  —  but  appreciate  the  convulsions,  overturnings,  and 
untold  misery  to  many  millions  of  people  that  would 
necessarily  follow  the   introduction  of  machinery,  railways, 


396      An  American   Cruiser  in  the  East 

and  mining,  on  a  large  scale,  or  any  radical  change  in 
dress,  diet,  and  mode  of  life,  and  in  their  wisdom  they 
choose  to  move  slowly. 

Capital  and  enterprise  are  not  lacking.  America  does 
not  possess  all  the  millionaires ;  there  are  numbers  of 
them  in  China.  Notwithstanding  the  low  wages,  the 
millions  of  people  who  are  crowded  oft  the  land  to  live 
in  boats,  glad  to  get  ten  cents  a  day  for  their  labor, 
China  has  many  multi-millionaires.  Perhaps  the  richest 
man  in  the  world  is  How  Qua,  a  Cantonese,  who  is 
reputed   to   be  worth   a  thousand   millions  of  dollars. 

There  are  thousands  of  Chinese  who  would  be  only  too 
glad  of  an  opportunity  to  start  up  a  new  order  of  things  if 
they  could  get  the  permission  of  their  government ;  but  it 
is  fortunate  for  the  people  of  America  and  Europe  that  the 
economic  and  political  conditions  of  China  exist  there, 
and  that  changes  are  made  so  slowly.  If  her  people,  ac- 
customed as  they  are  to  their  present  social  conditions, 
modes  of  life,  and  low  wages,  were  to  open  up  their  mines 
and  engage  in  manufacturing  and  mercantile  pursuits  on 
a  large  scale,  they  would  soon  become  the  exporters  for 
the  world.  They  could  undersell  all  other  people,  and  at 
the  same  time  realize  profits  of  which  their  people  have 
never  dreamed. 

To-day,  hampered  as  they  are  by  manual  labor,  rattle- 
trap looms,  and  slow  methods,  they  do  a  comparatively 
extensive  manufacturing,  commercial,  and  banking  business, 
and  regularly  declare  dividends  of  from  ten  to  twenty  per 
cent  in  gold. 

The  Chinese  Language 

The  Chinese  is  the  only  primitive  language  in  use  to- 
day. It  is  distinguished  by  its  originality,  and  is  used  by 
more  people  than  speak  any  other  tongue.  It  is  divided 
into  two  parts,  the  written  and  the  spoken.      The  written 


Government  and  People  of  China      397 

language  has  no  alphabet,  but  is  a  collection  of  written 
characters,  representing  ideas,  or  objects.  The  original 
characters  were  signs,  or  rather  rude  drawings,  —  pictures 
which  represented  objects.  There  were  two  hundred  and 
fourteen  of  these,  some  for  the  heavens,  others  for  the  earth, 
—  for  man,  the  parts  of  the  body  ;  domestic  animals  ;  the 
horse,  the  ox,  the  dog  ;  plants,  trees,  birds,  fish,  metals,  etc. 
As  their  experiences  enlarged,  new  wants  made  themselves 
felt,  the  language  needed  to  be  expanded,  and  a  new  ar- 
rangement made.  The  forms  of  the  rude  drawings  were 
changed,  but  the  primitive  strokes  were  retained  ;  and  with 
these  have  been  composed  all  the  characters.  By  the 
combinations  of  the  original  characters  were  formed  thou- 
sands  of  arbitrary   sounds. 

Natural  objects  are  classed  under  the  animal,  tree,  or 
plant  which  was  the  type  of  the  original  characters.  The 
fox  and  the  wolf  were  referred  to  the  dog,  and  the  hoofed 
animals  to  the  horse,  etc.  By  their  ingenious  method,  they 
formed  real  natural  families.  The  name  of  every  creature 
is  made  up  of  two  parts,  one  denoting  the  kind,  the  other 
relating  to  the  species,  —  indicating  the  peculiarities  of 
shape,  the  habits,  or  the  use  that  can  be  made  of  the 
object. 

It  would  appear  very  difficult  to  represent  abstract  ideas 
and  acts  of  the  understanding  by  such  a  system,  but  the 
difficulties  have  been  ingeniously  met.  Two  pearls,  one 
beside  the  other,  express  the  idea  of  a  friend,  because  it  is 
difficult  to  find  two  pearls  alike.  To  express  anger,  a 
heart  surmounted  by  a  slave  is  represented.  There  are 
great  numbers  of  characters,  the  analysis  of  which  is  very 
interesting  ;  but  for  many  of  the  words,  the  characters  are 
arbitrary.  The  whole  number  of  characters  amounts  to 
about  forty  thousand,  but  less  than  one  third  of  that  number 
are  used.  The  characters  are  written  one  above  the  other, 
in    a   vertical    line,   beginning    at    the    right  of   the   page. 


398      An   American    Cruiser  in   the   East 

When    the    words    are    correctly    intonated    and    properly 
modulated,  the  speech   is  musical. 

The  Chinese  language  has  no  grammatical  construction. 
There  are  some  well-understood  rules  by  which  sentences 
are  constructed  and  words  placed  in  proper  apposition  to 
other  words  in  the  same  sentence ;  but  the  verb  has  no 
mood,  tense,  person  or  inflection  of  any  kind  ;  the  noun 
has  neither  gender,  number,  nor  case  ;  and  a  word  is  sub- 
stantive, verb,  or  adjective,  singular  or  plural,  masculine  or 
feminine,  according  to  its  position,  or  connection,  in  the 
sentence.  The  meaning  of  a  passage  can  be  determined 
only  by  close  attention  to  the  relative  position  of  the  words 
in  each  sentence,  and  by  a  knowledge  of  the  idioms.  The 
forty  thousand  written  characters  are  expressed  by  about 
four  hundred  and  eleven  vocables;  and  many  characters, 
when  pronounced,  have  precisely  the  same  sound  to  an 
unpractised  ear.  To  avoid  ambiguity,  and  as  far  as  possible 
to  distinguish  one  character  from  another  in  common  con- 
versation, the  Chinese  have  a  system  of  tones,  so  that  each 
vocable  is  capable  of  being  pronounced  in  six  or  eight  dif- 
ferent ways  ;  and  another  method  of  clearly  expressing  their 
meaning  is  the  combination  of  two  words,  having  relation 
to  each  other  in  point  of  signification. 


HONG-KONG. 


CHAPTER   XXIII 


HONG-KONG,    CHINA 

HAVING  taken  the  last  picture  and  the  last  stroll 
through  the  labyrinth  of  crazy  streets  and  quaint 
shops  of  old  Canton,  and  having  said  good-bye  to  the  dear 
friends  on  Shamien,  we  retraced  our  seventy-five  miles  of 
river  navigation  through  the  "  obstructions,"  the  "  Tiger's 
Mouth,"  and  the  "  Lymoon  Pass,"  and  dropped  our  anchors 
in  the  green  waters  of  Hong-kong  harbor,  —  off  Victoria, 
the  capital  and  chief  town  of  the  colony.  We  were  soon 
surrounded  by  hundreds  of  brown,  gayly  decked  sampans, 
with  their  picturesque  crews  of  women,  girls,  and  children, 
shrill-voiced  and  barefooted,  who  live  the  days  through, 
sculling,  sailing,  and  steering ;  driving  sharp  bargains  with 
the  sailors,  and  gossiping  with  their  neighbors. 


400     An   American   Cruiser  in  the  East 

Great  war  vessels,  merchant  steamers,  sailing  craft,  and 
junks  crowd  the  harbor ;  while  the  upper  end  of  the 
island  is  lined  with  junks  that  swarm  with  coolies  engaged 
in  unloading  and  loading,  —  merrily  singing  as  they  toss 
off  great  loads  of  rice,  or  coal,  or  some  huge  piece  of 
machinery. 

Hong-kong  is  mountainous,  and  shows  volcanic  origin 
in  its  low,  granite  ridges,  bleak,  barren  valleys,  narrow 
strips  of  level  coast-line,  and  lofty  overhanging  precipices, 
where  the  monsoons  cut  and  grind  and  burn.  Here  the 
typhoon  shrieks  its  horrid  wails  as  it  lashes  mighty  ships, 
frail  junks,  and  little  sampans  to  destruction ;  or  a  pall  of 
fog  hangs  between  the  granite  hills  and  the  sea.  The 
prospect  is  wild,  dreary,  and  monotonous,  with  barren, 
treeless  hills,  where  no  natural  green  thing  smiles  back 
to  the  sun  in  tender  acknowledgment  of  goodness. 

Hong-kong  is  one  of  the  Ladrone  ("  Thieves  ")  group 
of  islands,  so  named  for  having  been  a  place  of  resort  for 
pirates  and  thieves  in  "  the  good  old  times."  It  is 
situated  seventy-five  miles  southeast  of  Canton,  in  latitude 
22°4'  north,  and  longitude  114°  6'  east.  It  was  ceded 
to  the  British  in  1841,  to  be  used  as  a  depot  for  repairing 
and  refitting  their  vessels,  and  as  a  place  of  refuge  for  dis- 
tressed seafaring  people.  It  is  irregular  in  form,  about 
ten  miles  and  a  half  long,  and  has  a  breadth  varying  from 
two  to  five  miles,  with  an  area  of  about  thirty  square  miles. 
It  is  separated  from  the  mainland  of  China  by  a  body  of 
water  known  as  Hong-kong  Roads,  which  narrows  down 
to  about  one  quarter  of  a  mile  in  width  at  the  Lymoon 
Pass. 

On  the  southern  coast,  two  bold  strips  of  land  extend 
into  the  sea  and  form  the  harbors  of  Deep  Bay  and  Tyam 
Bay,  and  the  little  island  of  Aberdeen  shelters  a  fine 
harbor  which  is  supplied  with  fine  dock-yards  and  extensive 
machine-shops. 


Hong-kong,   China 


401 


Victoria,  the  capital  and  commercial  port,  is  situated  on 
the  northwest  end  of  the  island.  It  is  laid  out  with  fine 
wide  roads  and  terraces.  The  residences  occupied  by 
Europeans  are  large  and  commodious,  having,  with  their 
broad  verandahs  and  beautiful  artificial  gardens,  an  air  of 
elegant  refinement.  The  houses  of  the  Chinese  are  of 
brick,  covered  with   mortar,  and  are  much  superior  in  ap- 


The  Queen's  Road,  Hong-kong. 

pearance  to  houses  found  in  the  Chinese  cities ;  but  they 
are  not  suited  to  the  climate,  being  damp  and  unhealthy, 
and  breeding  malaria  and   fevers. 

Society  is  ceremonious  and  exacting,  and  is  led  by  the 
occupants  of  the  government  house,  who  maintain  a  little 
court   after  British   fashion. 

The  citv  of  Victoria  extends  for  about  three  miles  along 
the  bay  shore,  and  thence  up  the  sides  of  the  hills,  where 
it  loses  itself  in  terrace  on  terrace,  which  are  reached  by 

26 


40  2      An  American   Cruiser  in  the  East 

winding  roads,  or  broad  flights  of  granite  steps.  Here  and 
there  a  lovely  villa  or  mansion  marks  the  boundary,  and  the 
hotels  and  groups  of  elegant  homes  that  comb  "  Mount 
Austin "   reach   down   to  meet  the   Queen-named  town. 

The  colony  is  ruled  by  a  royal  Governor,  with  an 
Executive  Council,  composed  of  the  Colonial  Secretary,  the 
Commander  of  the  troops,  the  Attorney-General,  and  the 
Auditor-General.  The  Legislative  Council,  presided  over 
by  the  Governor,  is  composed  of  all  the  members  of  the 
Council  (except  the  Commander),  with  the  addition  of  four 
unofficial  members,  who  are  appointed  by  the  crown,  on 
the  recommendation  of  the  Governor. 

The  Praya,  the  road  along  the  bay-front,  extends  from 
the  parade  to  the  extreme  northwest  end  of  the  town,  and 
is  lined  with  fine  shops  and  storehouses,  while  its  roadway 
is  crowded  with  busy  men  and  women.  The  Queen's  Road 
is  lined  on  both  sides  with  fine  shops,  filled  with  beautiful 
and  rare  wares  from  every  part  of  China,  Japan,  India,  and 
Africa.  Silks,  crapes,  gauzes,  cabinets,  ivories,  lacquers, 
porcelains,  precious  stones,  rare  filigree  in  gold  and  silver,, 
and  cunning  work  in  camel's  hair  and  fine  wools,  are 
lavishly  displayed  to  tempt  the  traveller;  and  the  roadway 
swarms  with  a  motley  crowd  of  Europeans,  Jews,  Japanese, 
Koreans,  iMahometans,  Hindoos,  Malavs,  Javanese,  Parsees, 
Sikhs,  Cingalese,  Negroes,  half-castes,  and  everywhere  that 
unfortunate  Chinese  coolie,  —  the  drudge,  the  bearer  of  the 
world's  loads  and  burdens. 

The  "  Sikh "  policeman,  in  dark  blue,  with  immense 
scarlet  turban,  stands  "  attention  "  at  the  corner  of  the  road. 
White-robed  "  ayahs "  and  Koreans  stride  from  shop  to 
shop,  while  the  pedlers  crv  their  wares.  Everybody  is 
talking  in  this  great  Babel.  "  Tommy  Atkins,"  the  high 
private,  with  cap  on  ear  and  switch  in  hand,  swaggers  up 
the  road,  the  observed  of  all  observers.  A  picturesque 
group  of  little   musiimes   from   "  Dai   Nippon  "  chaperone 


Hong-kong,  China 


403 


Chinese  and  Hindoo  maidens  through  the  mazy  road. 
Parsees,  Chinese,  and  Koreans  discuss  money,  stocks,  and 
the  latest  rumors  from  Seoul.  The  Turk  and  the  Javanese 
hold  a  hot  discussion.  The  childlike  and  bland  Cingalese 
unfolds  his  pack,  and  displays  beautiful  emeralds,  moonstones, 
cat's-eyes,  sapphires,  and  diamonds  that  are  worth  a  king's 
ransom,  but  can  be  purchased  for  a  few  shillings  ;   and  the 


The  Water-Front.  Hong-kong,  in  a  Fog. 


small  boys  in  pigtails  toss  the  shuttlecock  with  knee,  heel, 
and  elbow. 

Victoria  has  most  of  the  modern  improvements.  Elec- 
tricitv,  gas,  and  oil  illuminate  its  streets.  A  cable-car  line 
extends  up  the  side  of  the  hills,  some  fourteen  hundred  feet, 
to  "  Mount  Austin,"  where  summer  houses  and  two  fine 
hotels  have  been  erected,  and  water  is  abundantly  supplied 
from  a  reservoir  holding  seventy-five  million  gallons.  The 
water-front  is  being  extended  out  into  the  bay  three  hundred 
feet,  where  a  massive  granite   retaining  wall  is  beino;  built. 


404      An   American   Cruiser  in   the   East 

The  intervening  space  will  be  filled  in  with  soil,  to  enlarge 
the  narrow  strip  of  level  land  upon  which  the  business  portion 
of  the  city  is  located. 

The  palaces  of  the  Governor  and  the  Bishop,  the  City 
Hall,  the  Cathedral,  the  Museum,  the  Exchange,  the  Hong- 
kong Hotel,  the  Club  Germania,  the  Hong-kong  Club, 
the    Botanical    Garden,  the    Hospitals,  the    Barracks,  the 


The  Parsee  Cemetery  in  the  Happy  Valley,  Hong-kong. 

Government  dock-yard,  the  parade  and  recreation  grounds, 
are  all  very  interesting  to  visit,  as  well  as  the  fine  schools 
which  range  from  the  primary  grades  to  the  college,  and  are 
for  both  sexes  and  all  conditions.  The  Bowen  and  Kennedy 
roads,  and  the  aqueducts  and  military  roads,  that  almost 
encircle  the  heights,  are  great  engineering  works.  The 
English  planted  on  this  bold,  barren  rock,  which  nature 
hurled  up  from  the  bottom  of  the  sea,  their  roads,  their 
hedges,  their  gardens,  and  much  quiet  elegance,  and  this  is 
their  home. 


Hong-kong,   China  405 


"  KUHLAN,     1855" 

In  a  gloomy  spot,  at  the  foot  of  the  hill  where  begins 
the  deep  cut  to  the  Happy  Valley,  stands  a  monument 
commemorative  of  one  of  the  few  events  in  which  Ameri- 
cans and  Britons  stood  shoulder  to  shoulder,  and  shared  the 
dangers,  death,  and  glory  of  conflict.  The  monument  is 
of  granite,  about  sixty  feet  high,  surrounded  by  a  handsome 
wrought-iron  railing  well  shaded  by  four  old  trees,  and  bears 
the  following  inscription  :  — ■ 

"  ERECTED   BY  THE   OFFICERS  AND   CREWS   OF  THE 

UNITED   STATES   STEAM   FRIGATE   '  POWHATAN  ' 

AND 

H.    B.    M.     STEAM-SLOOP   '  RATTLER,' 

IN    MEMORY   OF 

Their  shipmates  who  fell  in  a  combined  attack, 
on  a  fleet  of  piratical  Junks  off  Kuhlan, 
August  4th,  1855." 

"  KILLED  IN   THE  ACTION. 

'  Rattler.'  '  Powhatan.' 

George  Mitchell,  A.  B.  John  Pepper,  Seaman. 

James  Silvers,  Carpenter's  crew.  James  A.  Halsey,  Landsman. 

John  Massey,  Gunner,  R.  M.  A.       Isaac  Coe,  Landsman. 
M.  Oliff,  Private,  R.  A.  S.  Mullard,  Marine. 

B.  F.  Addamson,  Marine." 

From  that  day  to  this,  no  military  procession  has  ever 
passed  the  spot  without  halting,  while  the  band  plays  the 
"  Star  Spangled  Banner,"  "  God  Save  the  Queen,"  and  a 
solemn  dirge,  in  memory  of  the  brave  fellows  who  sleep 
there. 

To  the  southward,  whether  you  go  by  the  deep  cut,  over 
the  hills  and  through  the  valleys,  or  turn  from  the  dock-yard 


4o6     An  American   Cruiser  in   the  East 

and  skirt  along  the  Praya,  the  scenery  is  varying  and  grand 
beyond  description.  The  Happy  Valley,  which  is  the  pride 
of  the  colony,  is  a  vast  amphitheatre,  with  racecourse  and 
cricket-ground  in  its  centre,  and  behind  the  grand  stand 
are  the  English,  Catholic,  Jewish,  Mahometan,  and  Parsee 
cemeteries,  with  their  beautifully  shaded  walks,  clumps 
of  palms,  and  strange,  luxurious  tropical  growths  and 
blooms,  with  here  and  there  a  stately  pile,  or  stone,  to 
mark  the  resting-place  of  some  member  of  the  silent 
majority. 

How  full  these  cemeteries  are  !  It  is  only  about  fifty 
years  since  the  white  man  unfurled  his  banner  and  took 
possession  of  the  island,  but  in  that  time  the  "  Happy 
Valley "  has  swallowed  up  her  victims  by  hundreds  and 
by  thousands.  The  ride  back  to  the  city  is  delightful, 
but  one  becomes  a  little  serious  while  pondering  over 
the  causes  that  have  filled  these  cemeteries  in  so  short  a 
time. 

Victoria  is  remarkably  quiet  and  orderly.  The  streets 
are  guarded  by  a  force  of  Indian  sepovs,  and  after  eight 
o'clock  in  the  evening  the  Chinese  must  give  account  of 
their  movements.  The  mode  of  conveyance  is  by  chairs, 
open  or  closed,  and  jinrikishas,  which  give  employment  to 
the  coolie  who  is  always  soliciting  your  patronage. 

Victoria  has  many  industries,  in  the  range  of  European 
and  Chinese  manufactures  and  art.  Besides  the  hundreds  of 
handiwork  establishments,  there  is  a  large  sugar  refinery, 
rum  distillery,  a  jute  mill,  an  extensive  paper  mill,  and  an 
ice  manufactory.  Each  year  large  sums  of  public  money 
are  expended  for  improvements,  including  fortifications ; 
and  the  extension  of  military  and  public  roads,  sewerage 
and  drainage,  gives  employment  to  large  numbers  of  coolies. 
Two  daily  and  three  weeklv  newspapers  are  published  in 
the  English  language,  and  there  is  one  Chinese  bi-daily, 
besides  a   Portuguese  weekly. 


Hong-kong,   China  407 

Aberdeen,  Hong-kong 

The  Aberdeen  dry-docks  are  situated  at  the  head  of  an 
inlet  on  the  south  side  of  the  island.  The  entrance  is  easy 
and  safe,  and  the  anchorage  is  excellent.  The  docks  are 
substantially  built  of  granite.  Hope  Dock  was  opened  in 
1867,  and  has  a  length,  over  all,  of  four  hundred  and  thirty- 
three  feet ;  its  breadth  at  entrance  is  eighty-four  feet ;  its 
depth,  over  sill,  at  ordinary  spring  tides,  twenty-four  feet. 
Rise  of  tides,  spring,  seven  feet  six  inches.  Lamont  Dock, 
also  at  Aberdeen,  was  opened  in  i860.  It  has  a  length, 
over  all,  of  three  hundred  and  forty  feet;  its  breadth  at 
entrance  is  sixty-four  feet ;  its  depth,  over  sill,  at  ordinary 
spring  tides,  sixteen  feet.  Rise  of  tide,  spring,  seven  feet 
six  inches.  There  are  extensive  building  and  repair  shops 
connected  with  these  docks. 

KowLOON,  China 

Kowloon  is  a  vast,  slightly  undulating  plain,  on  the  main- 
land of  China,  on  the  opposite  side  of  Hong-kono;  Roads, 
and  faces  the  island  of  Hong-kong.  It  has  been  neatly 
laid  out  and  built  up  with  fine  public  buildings  and  resi- 
dences, has  a  garrison  of  Indian  troops,  and  is  considered 
to  be  a  suburb  of  Victoria,  with  which  it  is  connected  by 
little  steam  ferry-boats.  Fine  granite  dry-docks  and  patent 
slips  for  hauling  up  vessels  are  located  here.  They  are  in 
close  proximity  to  the  shipping,  and  are  well  protected  on 
all  sides.  The  approaches  to  the  docks  are  perfectly  safe, 
and  the  immediate  vicinity  affords  excellent  anchorage. 
Powerful  shears  of  eighty  feet,  to  lilt  forty  tons,  stand  on  a 
wharf,  alongside  of  which  vessels  can  lie  in  from  twenty 
to  twenty-two  feet  of  water.  The  depth  of  low- water 
springs  in  the  shallowest  part  of  the  bay,  in  front  of  the 
docks,  is  thirty-nine   feet. 


4© 8      An  American   Cruiser  in  the  East 

No.  I  Dock,  Kowloon,  has  a  length,  over  all,  of  five 
hundred  and  thirty  feet ;  breadth  at  entrance,  eighty-six  feet 
top,  seventy  feet  bottom;  depth,  over  sill,  at  ordinary 
spring  tides,  thirty  feet ;  rise  of  tide,  spring,  seven  feet  six 
inches.  H.  M.  S.  "  Imperieuse,"  of  eighty-four  hundred 
tons,  is  the  largest  vessel  ever  docked  here.  The  dock 
can  be  filled  in  one  hour,  and  pumped  out  in  three  hours. 

No.  2  Dock,  Kowloon,  was  opened  in  i866.  Length, 
over  all,  three  hundred  and  forty  feet ;  breadth  at  entrance, 
seventy-four  feet ;  depth,  over  sill,  at  ordinary  spring  tides, 
eighteen  feet  ;  rise  of  tide,  spring,  seven  feet  six  inches. 
The  S.  S.  "Glenartney,"  of  2,107  tons,  is  the  largest  vessel 
ever  docked  here. 

No.  3  Dock,  Kowloon,  was  opened  in  1866.  Length, 
over  all,  two  hundred  and  forty-five  feet ;  breadth  at  en- 
trance, 43.3  feet  ;  depth,  over  sill,  at  ordinary  spring  tides, 
thirteen  feet ;  rise  of  tide,  spring,  seven  feet  six  inches. 
The  S.  S.  "  Douglas,"  of  1,373  tons,  is  the  largest  vessel 
ever  docked  here. 

Patent  Slip  No.  i,  Kowloon,  was  opened  in  1888. 
Length,  over  all,  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet ;  breadth  at 
entrance,  sixty  feet  ;  depth,  over  sill,  at  ordinary  spring 
tides,  eleven  feet  ;  rise  of  tide,  spring,  seven  feet  six  inches. 
The  ship  "Napier,"  of  1,235  tons,  is  the  largest  vessel  ever 
taken  on  this  slip. 

Patent  Slip  No.  2,  Kowloon,  was  opened  in  1892. 
Length,  over  all,  two  hundred  and  thirty  feet  ;  breadth  at 
entrance,  sixty  feet ;  depth,  over  sill,  at  ordinary  spring 
tides,  eleven  feet.  Vessels  can  be  placed  on  the  slip  in 
two  and   a  half  hours. 

The  Cosmopolitan  Dock  is  located  on  the  Kowloon  side 
of  the  harbor,  about  two  miles  from  the  centre  of  Victoria. 
The  depth  of  low-water  springs  is  twenty-six  feet  in  the 
shallowest  part  of  the  bay.  The  anchorage  is  safe,  and  it 
is  better  protected  from  typhoons  than  any  other  portion  of 


Hong-kong,   China  409 

the  port.  The  dock  is  substantially  built  of  granite,  was 
opened  in  1877,  and  has  a  length,  over  all,  of  four  hundred 
and  fifty-six  feet ;  breadth  at  entrance,  eighty-five  feet  ; 
depth,  over  sill,  at  ordinary  spring  tides,  twenty  feet ;  rise 
of  tide,  spring,  seven  feet  six  inches.  The  Steamer  "City 
of  Tokio,"  of  5,079  tons,  is  the  largest  vessel  ever  docked 
here. 

These  docks  and  slips  are  all  under  the  same  manage- 
ment. The  work-shops,  at  each,  have  every  appliance 
necessary  for  the  repairs  of  vessels  or  their  machinery,  — 
lathes,  planing,  screwing,  cutting,  punching  and  hydraulic 
riveting  machines,  etc.,  etc., —  capable  of  executing  work 
on  the  largest  scale.  The  shipwright's,  boiler-maker's, 
machine,  and  blacksmith's  shops,  and  the  foundries,  are  all 
well  equipped  to  execute  the  largest  work  with  quick 
despatch.  Several  powerful  steam-tugs  are  always  ready 
for  service.  By  the  rules  of  these  docks,  vessels  using  their 
own  materials  and  men  to  make  repairs,  while  in  dock,  are 
charged  fifteen  per  cent  on  the  value  of  the  labor,  and  ten 
per  cent  on  the  value  of  materials,  except  sheathing  and 
nails,  on  which  the  charge  is  five  per  cent. 

Hong-kong  owes  its  importance  to  the  fact  that  it  is  the 
military  and  naval  headquarters  of  the  British  forces  in  this 
quarter  of  the  globe.  It  is  also  the  prominent  banking- 
centre  of  the  far  East.  It  is  the  central  port  for  trade 
in  sugar,  flour,  salt,  ship  supplies,  and  granite,  and  has  a 
larger  opium  trade  than  any  other  port  in  that  part  of  the 
world. 

The  scenery  is  wild  and  dreary.  Attempts  have  been 
made  to  cultivate  rice  and  sweet  yams,  but  even  the  Chinese 
cannot  make  them  grow  in  sufficient  quantities  to  supply 
the  foreign  residents.  The  orange,  mango,  and  lichie  grow 
in  well-sheltered  spots.  Tortoises,  boas,  and  several  species 
of   poisonous    snakes   are   found    about   the    island,   and  a 


41  o      An   American   Cruiser  in   the   East 

troublesome  white  ant  burrows  into  woodwork  and  cuts  the 
heart  out  of  it. 

Hono--k:ong  is  not  a  healthy  place.  Malaria  is  given 
out  from  its  decomposing  granite  hills,  kidney  diseases 
are  prevalent,  and  deadly  cuts  and  sores  will  not  heal 
(surgical  cases  are  sent  abroad  for  cure),  and  catarrh  is  one 
of  the  nuisances  of  the  island.  The  temperature  ranges 
from  56°  to  84°  Fah.  The  mean  temperature  throughout 
the  year  is  about  73°  Fah.,  but  is  modified  by  the  mon- 
soons.    The  annual   rainfall    is  about   59   inches. 

In  1 841,  the  population  was  5,000,  which  has  increased 
by  emigration  to  about  225,000,  of  whom  6,000  are 
Americans  and  Europeans  (including  all  the  troops),  and 
219,000  Asiatics,  of  whom  the  Chinese  are  the  most 
numerous.  About  25,000,  in  addition,  live  in  boats  scat- 
tered about  in  the  immediate  vicinity.  The  Chinese 
government  maintains  a  fleet  of  small  revenue  cutters  in 
Hong-kong  waters,  to  prevent  opium  and  salt  smuggling. 

From  Victoria  Peak, —  1,835  feet  high,  —  where  the 
British  Jack  is  always  flying,  the  view  is  interesting  and 
grand.  On  one  hand  stretches  the  everlastingly  restless 
sea,  surging  and  dashing  against  the  rocks  and  islets  of  the 
Ladrone  group ;  yonder.  Mount  Steakeuse,  on  the  island 
of  Lamma,  two  miles  distant,  stands  1,140  feet  high;  and 
sleepy  old  China  is  grand  but  mysterious,  without  bright- 
ness, —  no  greens  or  golds,  silvers  or  pinks,  blues  or 
pearls,  but  just  the  dull,  heavy  red,  like  the  ball  the 
dragon  tosses  upon  her  own  flag.  The  sun  sinks  be- 
hind the  paddy-fields  into  the  west,  the  twinkling  lights, 
away  down  in  the  city  and  on  the  bay,  admonish  us,  and 
when  we  enter  the  cable-car  and  are  whirled  down,  and 
still  down,  the  side  of  the  hill,  the  romance  is  gone  before 
we  reach  the  city. 


Residence  of  the  Tartar  General,   New  Chwang,  China. 


CHAPTER    XXIV 


MACAO,    CHINA 


ATRIP  from  Hong-kong  to  Macao  in  one  of  the 
untidy  little  steamers  which  ply  between  the  ports 
is  very  interesting  and  enjoyable.  When  the  frantic  yells 
of  the  officers,  the  blowing  of  steam,  and  the  tooting  of 
the  whistle  have  ceased,  the  little  craft  heads  for  the 
Lymoon  Pass,  and  all  is  quiet  on  board  except  the  pulsat- 
ing throbs  of  the  exhausting  steam.  We  run  between 
scenes  in  brown  and  gray,  leaden,  wild,  and  weird,  and  the 
undulating  motion  of  the  ever-restless  sea  causes  the  little 
craft  to  dance  upon  the  waters.  Picturesque  groups  and 
crowds  unwittingly  pose  about  the  decks,  —  Portuguese, 
Chinese,  and   half-breeds,   who    make    up  the  list    of  pas- 


412      An  American   Cruiser  in  the  East 

sengers.  The  ever-changing  groups  are  studies  that  leave 
pleasant  memories  ;  and  long  after  the  journey  is  done,  we 
smile  at  the  recollections  of  this  or  that  incident  of  the  trip. 

Like  all  other  harbors  in  this  part  of  the  world,  Macao 
swarms  with  gay  sampans,  with  their  queer  little  shrines 
and  mirrors  and  pictures,  half-Christian,  half-Buddhist. 
A  strange  mixture  of  beliefs  have  come  through  poor  old 
China,  and  in  coming  have  brought  the  soil  with  them,  — 
religion  musty  and  soiled.  The  town  is  situated  on  the 
southern  extremity  of  the  island  of  Hiang-shang,  on  a 
point  of  land  formed  by  the  intersection  of  the  Chu-kiang 
with  the  Heung-kiang,  in  latitude  22°  north,  and  longitude 
132°  east.  The  gayly  colored,  flat-roofed  houses,  red  and 
blue  and  green,  make  a  quaint  little  city,  which  nestles 
between  bold,  bleak,  black   rocky  hills. 

The  old  Portuguese  forts,  with  their  ancient  guns  frown- 
ing upon  the  river,  are  more  picturesque  than  awe-inspiring 
in  these  days  of  rifle-guns  and  long  ranges.  The  Praya 
Grande  (here  everything  is  "  grande  ")  is  the  promenade 
of  the  place,  where  the  belles  and  the  beaux  of  old  Macao 
take  their  airings,  passing  before  the  palace,  and  among  the 
little  shops  and  gambling  saloons  which  border  its  animated 
road.  The  old  church  of  St.  Paul  has  braved  monsoons, 
typhoons,  fiery  flames,  and  earthquakes  since  1594.  St. 
Paul,  with  its  deep-toned  organ,  and  the  old  Hospital  of 
the  Misericordi,  stand  as  living  protests, — the  cross  against 
the  lotus. 

After  climbing  the  rocks  and  bowlders  beyond  the  city, 
we  reach  the  grotto  of  poor  Camoens,  the  real  object  of 
our  pilgrimage.  Strewn  with  great  granite  bowlders, 
abraded  and  shorn  by  monsoon  and  tvphoon,  the  spot  is 
as  wild  as  nature  made  it,  —  although  trees  and  shrubs 
and  vines  have  been  transplanted,  so  that  men  of  these 
latter  times  may  not  see  the  place  in  its  native  bareness. 
Sitting  here,  where  Camoens  wrote  his  immortal  "  Lusiad," 


Macao,   China  4 1  3 

to  recount  the  glories  of  his  beloved  Portugal,  although  an 
exile  from  her  shores,  we  must  admire  the  man,  so  filled 
with   patriotism. 

The  history  of  Camoens  is  interesting.  He  was 
born  in  Lisbon  in  1524.  Of  noble  parentage,  well 
educated,  with  classical  attainments,  witty,  courteous, 
and  handsome,  he  was  welcome  at  the  Portuguese  court, 
where  he  met  the  youth  and  beauty  of  the  land.  Here 
he  soon  became  a  favorite  with  the  fair  sex,  while  his 
sarcasm   incurred   the   hatred   of  his   own. 

Camoens  formed  a  romantic  passion  for  a  lady  of  the 
court.  The  lady  had  a  suitor  whom  her  parents  favored, 
and  when  Camoens's  passion  became  known  to  them,  their 
influence  procured  his  banishment  from  the  court.  Our 
poet  joined  the  forces,  went  to  Africa,  and  engaged  in 
the  war  against  the  Moors,  in  which  he  lost  his  right  eye. 
In  1550  he  returned  to  Lisbon.  In  1553  he  had  trouble 
with  an  officer  of  the  royal  household.  The  officer  and 
two  of  the  poet's  friends  were  rollicking,  when  a  dispute 
arose,  and  the  poet  came  to  the  rescue.  The  officer 
received  a  sword-thrust  in  the  neck,  and  the  friends  ran 
off.  Camoens  was  thrown  into  prison,  but  was  soon 
released   on  promising  to  leave  the   country. 

He  started  for  the  East  Indies,  and  arrived  at  Goa  in 
time  to  join  a  force  against  the  Purientas,  where  he  did 
some  good  service.  He  returned  to  Goa  in  the  following 
year,  but,  giving  loose  rein  to  his  caustic  pen,  he  incensed 
the  authorities  and  was  banished.  He  found  his  way  to 
Macao,  and  in  the  solitude  of  this  grotto  passed  his  days 
in  writing  the  "  Lusiad,"  recounting  the  virtues  of  his 
faithful  Javanese  slave  Antonio,  • — the  poor  slave,  who,  in 
strange  lands,  among  strange  people,  tended  Camoens  so 
devotedly  and  with  such  solicitude,  through  exile,  tempest, 
and  wreck,  who  begged  for  him,  and  who  tenderly  closed 
his  hungering,  weary  eyes  in  death. 


414      Ai^   American   Cruiser  in   the   East 

Returning  to  Goa,  Camoens  and  his  faithful  slave  were 
wrecked  near  the  mouth  of  the  river,  and  on  their  arrival 
were  cast  into  prison.  In  Goa,  Camoens  received  news  of 
the  death  of  his  beloved,  news  which  crazed  him  ;  but  the 
devoted  Antonio  guided  him  through  his  sorrow.  Camoens 
was  at  last  released  from  prison,  and  after  seventeen  years 
of  weary  exile  he  returned  to  Lisbon,  where  he  was  quar- 
antined for  a  year  on  account  of  the  plague,  which  had 
carried  off  more  than  fifty  thousand  people.  When  he 
landed,  he  went  to  see  his  poor  old  mother,  and  then  made 
arrangements  for  the  publication  of  the  "  Lusiad."  Its 
publication  excited  the  malice  of  jealous  poets,  but  Camoens 
knew  little  of  this,  as  he  lived  a  retired  life,  and  his  friends 
were  only  a  few  fathers  of  the  convent  of  Santa  Ana. 
After  the  year  1578,  he  was  reduced  to  extreme  poverty, 
and  on  June  10,  1580,  he  died  in  a  small,  cheerless  room, 
in  a  miserable  house  in  the  Rua  de  Santa  Ana. 

After  the  death  of  Camoens,  Fra  Jose  Indio,  a  Carmel- 
ite monk,  wrote  these  lines  on  a  fly-leaf  of  a  first  copy  of 
the  "  Lusiad  "  :  — 

"  What  thing  more  grievous  than  to  see  so  great  genius 
lacking  success  !  I  saw  him  die  in  a  hospital  in  Lisbon, 
without  a  sheet  to  cover  him,  after  having  triumphed  in  the 
Indies,  and  havincr  sailed  five  thousand  five  hundred  leagues 
bv  sea.  What  warning  so  great  for  those  who,  bv  night 
and  day,  weary  themselves  in  study  without  profit,  like  the 
spider  weaving  the  thread  to  catch  small  flies." 

In  1557,  the  Portuguese,  in  return  for  their  services  in 
combating  piracy,  were  permitted  to  form  a  settlement  on 
the  peninsula.  The  Jesuit  missionaries  set  up  the  cross^ 
and  in  1575  the  Chinese  built  the  wall  across  the  island  to 
separate  this  settlement  from  the  rest  of  China.  In  J  5 83, 
a  government  was  formed  for  the  settlement,  and  in  1628, 
Jeronimo  de  Silveria  became  the  first  royal  Governor.  The 
Chinese  claim  that  they  have  always   retained  control  over 


Macao,   China 


415 


the  settlement  through  Mandarins,  and  have  never  sur- 
rendered their  territorial  sovereign  rights.  The  royal 
Governor,  De  Amaral,  in  1849,  declared  that  the  Mandarins 
had  no  more  authority  than  the  representatives  of  any  other 


Woman  of  Northern  China, 

foreign  nation.  De  Amaral  was  assassinated  in  the  same 
year,  but  his  successors  have  continued  his  policy,  although 
the  Chinese  government  refuses  to  recognize  the  claim. 

The  European  powers  consider  Macao  a  de  facto  colony, 
and  the  King  of  Portugal   appoints   all  the   officers,  includ- 


41 6      An  American   Cruiser  in   the  East 

ing  the  Chinese  magistrates.  Macao  has  been  occupied  by 
British  forces  to  prevent  its  seizure  by  the  French. 

There  are  6,050  inhabitants  of  European  extraction  in 
Macao,  60,617  Chinese  Hving  on  the  land,  and  about 
11,000  in  boats.  The  people  are  engaged  in  commercial 
and  agricultural  pursuits,  and  nearly  all  the  land  is  under 
cultivation.  Macao  has  been  a  free  port  since  1846.  The 
preparation  and  packing  of  tea  is  the  most  important  in- 
dustry of  the  port,  and  there  is  a  good  trade  in  Chinese 
manufactured  goods  from  Canton.  Gambling  and  opium 
dens  are  numerous,  and  are  openly  carried  on. 

The  total  value  of  the  trade  of  the  port  is  ;$  15,000,000. 
The  revenue  is  largely  made  up  from  taxes  on  gambling 
tables,  and  small  dues  and  fines. 


CHAPTER   XXV 

MANILA,     PHILIPPINE    ISLANDS 

ON  the  afternoon  of  March  12,  we  ran  out  of  Hong- 
kong roads,  and  anchored  under  the  lee  of  a  barren 
little  rock.  On  the  following  morning,  we  had  target  prac- 
tice with  great  and  small  guns,  rifles,  and  revolvers  ;  after 
which  we  picked  up  our  targets,  and  headed  out  for  Manila. 

After  leaving  the  fogs  and  gloom  of  Hong-kong,  balmy 
air  freshened  into  good  topsail-breezes,  drove  off  the  chill, 
and  gave  us  all  new  life.  Even  the  old  ship  —  as  sail  was 
made,  and  the  engines  put  out  of  use  —  dashed  ahead  and 
bumped  into  the  seas  as  though  she  enjoyed  the  delightful 
bath. 

During  the  middle  watch  of  the  i6th,  we  lost  the  wind, 
but  the  heavy  swell  of  the  sea  remained,  and  the  vessel 
became  a  little  too  sportive  for  our  comfort.  Fellows  were 
pitched  out  of  their  bunks  in  a  very  unceremonious  fashion, 
and  furniture  and  crockery  were  sent  about  the  decks  at  a 
rate  dangerous  to  our  limbs  and  our  pockets.  We  were 
not  slow  in  getting  the  engines  connected,  and  going  ahead 
with  them. 

For  the  first  two  or  three  hours,  after  starting  up,  the 
vessel  rolled  deeper  than  before.  Sleep  was  out  of  the 
question,  and  we  wandered  about  the  mess-room  like  white- 
robed  spirits,  securing  the  noisy  articles,  and  declaring  that 
we  would  gladly  "  sell  our  farms  "  and  come  to  sea,  where 
we  could  always  have  such  pleasant  surroundings  and  so 
much  comfort. 

27 


41 8      An   American   Cruiser   in   the   East 

On  the  morning  of  the  17th,  we  sighted  Luzon,  and 
ran  along  Manila  Bay,  in  full  view  of  the  land.  For  miles 
we  ran  almost  beside  the  beautiful  white  surf-washed  beach, 
which  met  the  low,  rolling  land,  and  lost  itself  on  the  sides 
of  great  mountains,  that  rear  their  black  heads  full  five 
thousand  feet  into  the  clouds.  We  reached  the  outer  harbor 
at  about   noon,  and   anchored  there. 

Manila,  the  capital  of  Luzon,  as  well  as  of  the  Philippine 
Islands,  is  situated  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  Bay  of  Manila,  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Pasig  River,  in  latitude  14°  36'  north,  and 
longitude  120°  52'  east.  The  immediate  surrounding  coun- 
try is  low,  rolling  land,  almost  flat,  and  being  bare  of  vege- 
tation in  the  dry  season  has  a  barren  appearance.  The 
Mafonso  and  Mateo  Mountains  form  the  background  for 
Manila,  and  give  color  and  variety  to  the  otherwise  monoto- 
nous scenery. 

Old  Boreas  and  Neptune  paid  their  respects  to  us  on 
our  first  night  in  the  port,  in  the  form  of  a  little  blow. 
The  sea  dashed  into  our  ports,  drowning  out  some  of  the 
rooms  ;  and  after  the  ports  were  closed  it  became  so  intoler- 
ably hot  that  it  was  impossible  to  sleep  in  the  ship. 

The  next  morning  we  made  a  trip  to  the  shore.  After 
crossing  the  bay  in  the  steam-cutter,  we  entered  the  Pasig 
River,  between  the  grim  old  Spanish  fort  and  the  massive 
granite  lighthouse  which  guard  the  entrance.  Keeping 
on  up  the  river  for  about  a  mile,  passing  between  and 
dodging  lines  of  busv  shipping,  where  unloading  and  loading 
was  being  done,  we  heard  all  the  noise  and  witnessed  the 
confusion  made  by  Spanish  sailors  and  longshoremen, — 
poor  fellows  !  —  who  cannot  lift  a  weight  without  an  ac- 
companying yell  or  song,  in  which  the  song  is  seven-eighths 
yell  and  one-eighth  music. 

We  landed  on  a  flight  of  granite  steps  at  the  custom- 
house, and  were  assailed  —  but  in  a  friendly  way  —  by  a 
crowd  of  natives,  anxious  to  serve  us  in  almost  any  capacity  : 


Manila,   Philippine   Islands  421 

to  act  as  guides  over  the  city,  to  sell  the  lucky  number  in 
the  lottery,  cakes,  fruits,  or  cigars,  or  to  furnish  teams  to 
see  the  sights.  After  some  parley,  we  entered  a  trap 
driven  by  a  native  and  drawn  by  a  pair  of  lively  little 
ponies,  and  started  off  for  the  Club.  Our  driver  more 
than  earned  his  fare  by  the  vigorous  manner  in  which  he 
conducted  his  part  of  the  expedition.  He  would  strike  at 
the  flank  of  one  pony  and  then  at  the  other,  all  the  while 
veiling  as  if  the  city  were  on  fire,  and  he  driving  the  only 
fire-engine  in  the  place.  We  soon  discovered  this  to  be  a 
ruse,  a  cheap  way  of  showing  his  importance  and  zeal. 
The  dash-board  and  not  the  ponies  received  the  blows,  and 
the  yelling  is  simply  a  Manila  fashion.  It  became  evident 
that  the  Jehu  did  not  know  where  the  club-house  was  ; 
neither  did  we,  and  as  the  day  was  hot,  the  trap  comfort- 
able, and  we  were  seeing  interesting,  novel  sights,  we  let 
him   drive   on   at   will. 

After  wandering  about  in  this  fashion,  we  dashed  up  a  street 
where  the  "  Stars  and  Stripes  "  were  floating  over  our  Con- 
sulate ;  and  through  an  open  window  we  saw  our  repre- 
sentative decked  in  all  the  glory  of  full  dress,  ready  for  a 
dinner  at  eight.  He  was  slowly  pacing  the  floor,  trying  to 
keep  cool,  with  the  mercury  bobbing  100°  in  the  shade. 
The  Consulate  gave  us  the  bearing  of  the  Club,  and  we 
headed  directly  for  it,  soon  arrived,  and  laid  ourselves  out 
in  long  easy-chairs  under  the  "  punkhas,"  which  the 
coolies  kept  moving  at  a  vigorous  rate,  wafting  gentle 
breezes  over  us,  as  we  enjoyed  the  perfection  of  laziness, 
while  awaiting  the  preparation  of  luncheon. 

After  having  given  the  ponies  a  breathing  spell  and  the 
Jehu  time  to  rest  his  lungs,  we  re-entered  the  trap  and 
started  off^  to  see  the  sights. 

The  Pasig  River  divides  Manila  into  two  parts,  which  are 
connected  by  a  fine  old  stone  bridge  and  a  handsome 
suspension  bridge. 


42  2      An   American   Cruiser  in   the   East 


The    old    city,  the    Plaza  de    Manila,    is    enclosed    by 

the  walls  of  the  old   fort,  and   is  entered   by  low,  arched 

gateways.      Its  streets  are  broad   and  very  clean,  and   run 

at  rio;ht  angles  to  each  other ;  but  as  there  are  neither  shops 

nor  traffic,  they  are  dull  and  gloomy,   only   brightened   by 

the   many   little   parks  of  refreshing 

r  green,  and   by  the  tinkling  bells  of 

I  '  the  poor  car-horses  who  are  beaten 

through  them. 

The  Governor's  palace,  the 
administration  building,  and 
the  cathedral  face  a  large 
garden  of  beautiful  tropical 
flowers,  which  shed  their  fra- 
grance about  a  colossal  bronze 
statue  of  Don  Carlos  IV.  of 
Spain.  The  University  and 
Academy  of  Arts,  the  arsenal, 
mint,  museum,  hospitals, 
many  churches,  and  religious 
houses  are  also  within  the 
gloomy  walls  of  the  city. 
Outside  the  city  walls,  hand- 
some villas,  situated  in  beauti- 
ful grounds,  extend  along  the  roads 
for  miles.  La  Luna  is  a  prome- 
nade facing  the  bay,  where  all 
Manila  resorts  in  the  evening,  to 
hear  the  bands  plav. 
"•  New  Manila,"  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  ri\er,  contains 
extensive  warehouses  filled  with  the  products  of  these 
islands  and  with  wares  from  all  parts  of  the  world,  —  the 
Escalto,  lined  with  gav  Chinese  shops,  the  native  suburb, 
which  struggles  for  miles  up  the  river,  the  busv  Beriondo, 
and   the   fashionable  San    Miguel. 


An   Inijiax  Warrior  of  the 
Philippine  Islands. 


Church  of  Dominicans,  Manila. 


Manila,   Philippine  Islands  423 

Dashing  over  the  moss-covered  stone  bridge  which  spans 
the  Pasig,  thence  along  the  river's  bank,  by  the  old,  cracked 
city  wall  and  the  monument  to  Magellan,  and  under  the 
low  archway  in  the  wall,  we  found  our  spirited  little  ponies 
trottino;  through  the  consecrated  streets  of  old  Manila.     We 


Natives  of  Manila,  Philippine  Islands. 

kept  on  through  the  sleepy  streets  to  the  cathedral,  a  mas- 
sive old  pile  of  granite,  in  the  composite  style  of  architec- 
ture, Romanesque,  with  Corinthian  cornice.  Founded  in 
1575,  one  hundred  and  fourteen  years  after  Columbus 
discovered  America  ;   several  times  shattered,  wrecked,  and 


424     An  American   Cruiser  in  the  East 

rebuilt,  —  it  now  stands  (surrounded  by  the  noblest  speci- 
mens of  architecture  in  Manila),  bearing  the  scars  and  rents 
of  the  earthquakes  of  1863  and  1880. 

Venerable,  historic,  and  altogether  grand,  the  old  bat- 
tered walls  still  enclose  and  guard  beautiful  chapels  and 
altars,  the  grand  choir  and  organ,  the  golden  throne,  the 
cunningly  wrought  statues,  and  wonderful  paintings, —  all 
magnificent  fittings  for  this  old  Christian  church  in  this  far- 
eastern  isle. 

Inanimate  witness  of  masses,  glorias,  and  triumphs  in 
the  fair  days,  when  the  people  had  cause  for  thanksgivings 
and  rejoicings  for  bounteous  harvests,  the  stay  of  the 
pestilence,  or  some  triumph  of  the  Spanish  arms,  or  the 
witness  of  misery  and  heart-rending  distress,  when  terror- 
stricken  women  and  half-dazed  men  flocked  here  and 
prayed  to  Heaven  to  stay  the  rumbling  and  quaking  earth, 
that  rent  and  shattered  massive  piles  of  man's  handiwork, 
tore  great  rents  in  the  earth,  and  swallowed  up  hundreds 
and  thousands  of  people,  burying  them  from  the  sight 
of  their  fellows  forever. 

With  its  scars  and  rents,  its  chime  of  sonorous  bells, 
and  with  clusters  of  old  trees  growing  from  its  top  and 
sides,  the  cathedral  bell  tower  (now  a  ruin)  stands  like 
a  solitary  sentinel  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  street.  The 
native  ringer,  stationed  within  its  walls,  rings  out  the  half- 
hours  upon  the  musical  chimes,  by  time  measured  with 
a  Yankee  clock  which  has  superseded  the  ancient  hour- 
glass. 

The  only  modern  thing  in  the  vicinity,  besides  the 
clock,  is  the  colossal  bronze  statue  of  Don  Carlos  IV.  of 
Spain,  in  robes  of  state,  which  stands  in  a  handsome  garden 
of  flowers,  facing  the  cathedral.  The  inscription  on  the 
pedestal   reads,  — 

"  IN    GRATITUDE    FOR    THE    INTRODUCTION    OF    VACCINATION    IN    THE 
PHILIPPINE    ISLANDS." 


Manila,   Philippine   Islands  425 

The  noble  pile  of  moss  and  creeper-covered  granite 
yonder  is  the  ruin  of  the  palace,  another  result  of  the 
earthquake.  The  top  and  front  of  the  building  were 
thrown  down,  leaving  the  grand  stone  stairway  exposed, 
like  an  ascent  to  some  old  tomb.  These  ruins  are  in  the 
centre  of  a  noble  park  of  luxuriant  growth.  It  is  said 
that  on  moonlight  nights,  in  the  monsoon  season,  shadows 
from  the  trees  thrown  across  stairway  and  park  appear 
like  a  procession  of  black-robed  monks  wandering  about 
the  ruins.  The  superstitious  natives  stare  with  frightened 
eyes,  and  run  in  wonder  and  awe  from  the  mysterious 
apparition.  All  about  the  city  there  are  ruins  of  fine 
houses  that  were  thrown  down  by  the  earthquake,  and 
have  remained   untouched  since  that  time. 

The  Church  of  the  Sacred  Heart  is  a  magnificent  pile, 
long  and  broad  and  high.  Its  exterior  is  plain  and  unpre- 
tentious, like  the  ecclesiastic  architecture  of  old  Spain  and 
Mexico,  and  the  missions  of  California  ;  but  its  interior 
is  encased  with  exquisitely  carved  sandal-wood,  the  work 
of  native  Christians  of  India,  from  designs  furnished  by 
native  priests  here.  There  are  no  gorgeous  greens,  golds, 
and  scarlets,  or  bold,  grotesque  carvings,  such  as  we  see  in 
the  Buddhist  temples,  but  beautiful  reliefs  and  bas-reliefs 
that  tell  the  stories  of  the  Saviour,  the  Apostles,  and  Fathers 
of  the  Church.  A  great  cabinet  of  sweet-scented  woods 
is  so  finely  executed  as  to  bear  the  glass.  Each  section 
and  panel  is  a  wonderful  work  of  art,  and  the  whole  a 
collection  of  masterpieces. 

There  are  a  few  fine  old  historical  paintings  in  the  Church 
of  Santo  Domingo.  One  represents  the  murder  of  the 
priests  in  1260  by  the  Arabians,  on  the  Pescadores.  On 
the  opposite  side  of  the  doorway  a  painting  represents 
a  number  of  priests  assembled,  in  the  sanctuary,  around 
the  mutilated  body  of  a  white  man,  while  the  heavens  are 
open,   and    the    priests    hold   consultation    with   the    Holy 


426      An   American   Cruiser  in   the   East 

Family.  The  light  was  poor,  and  we  could  not  decipher 
the  inscription  upon  this  very  old  and  dim   picture. 

On  one  side  of  a  chapel,  there  is  a  fine  painting  of  the 
"Jesuits  preaching  to  the  Japanese,"  and  a  picture  opposite 
represents  the  "  Persecution  of  the  Jesuits  by  the  Japanese." 
These  pictures  are  carefully  guarded  and  shown  with  much 
pride  by  the  brethren  of  Santo  Domingo. 

About  two  hundred  and  fifty  years  ago,  Japan  was 
almost  converted  to  Christianity  by'  the  Jesuits.  The 
Dutch  were  jealous,  and  intrigued  with  the  Japanese  gov- 
ernment, persuading  it  that  the  Christians  designed  its 
overthrow.  The  Japanese  became  alarmed,  and  waged 
a  relentless  war  of  extermination  against  the  Jesuits  and 
native  Christians.  Thousands  who  would  not  renounce 
their  religion  were  thrown  over  the  causeway  of  Papin- 
berg,  and   drowned   in   the  sea. 

Cigar  manufacture  is  a  monopoly  of  the  government, 
and  the  manufactory  covers  several  acres  of  ground.  It 
is  a  very  interesting  place  to  visit ;  twelve  thousand  women 
and  girls  are  at  work,  some  handsome,  some  plain,  some 
neat,  and  others  untidy  ;  but  all  chatter  gavlv,  and  many 
a  hearty  Spanish  laugh  rings  out  while  their  little  heaps 
of  tobacco  are  manipulated.  Here  one  sees  all  the  pro- 
cesses of  stripping,  assorting,  filling,  rolling,  pasting,  count- 
ing, and  packing  in  boxes  the  rolls  of  fragrant  weed.  At  the 
noon-hour  and  in  the  evening,  when  the  women  leave  the 
premises,  they  are  all  searched,  to  make  sure  that  no  scraps 
of  tobacco  are  taken  away.  They  are  even  required  to 
take  down  their  hair.  The  examinations  are  made  under 
the  superintendence  of  a   Spanish   beauty. 

The  cemetery,  like  those  at  New  Orleans,  is  surrounded 
by  an  outer  and  an  inner  wall,  with  level  compartments 
between  them,  shelved  in  rows  one  above  another.  On 
the  arrival  of  a  body,  it  is  taken  from  its  casket  and  placed 


Open  Air  Theatre,  Manila. 


Manila,   Philippine   Islands  427 

in  one  of  these  compartments.  Quicklime  is  placed  around 
it  to  hasten  the  process  of  decomposition ;  the  opening  is 
then  sealed  with  a  memorial  stone,  and  the  casket  is  taken 
back  to  the  undertaker's  shop  to  await  the  next  body  that 
will  fit  into  it. 


A    XaTIVIC    iiF    MaNIF.Aj    PHILUTlNt    ISLANDS. 

The  old  church  near  the  cathedral  contains  some  art 
treasures  worth  seeing.  The  painting  representing  the 
"  Baptism  of  the  Saviour  by  Saint  John  "  is  a  fine  composi- 
tion, rich  in  coloring.  The  stained  glass  window  behind 
the  altar  has  "■  angels  hovering  about  in  the  heavens."    The 


428      An  American   Cruiser  in  the  East 

altar-piece  is  a  marble  statue  of  the  Virgin  ;  and  when  the 
sun  shines  through  the  window,  the  effect  is  of  "  angels 
hovering  about  the  Virgin."  A  heavy  white  veil  hangs 
before  the  altar  and  heightens  the  effect  of  the  picture,  so 
that  it  appears  like  a  beautiful  dream. 

Every  afternoon  San  Miguel,  the  fashionable  drive,  is  gay 
with  hundreds  of  Spanish  dowagers,  black-eyed  senoritas, 
and  interesting  children,  who  recline  in  elegant  carriages, 
which  are  drawn  by  handsome  ponies.  The  ladies  are 
gowned  in  black  or  pink  or  yellow  silks,  with  black  man- 
tillas arranged  in  the  hair  and  falling  gracefully  about  the 
shoulders,  as  they  drive  back  and  forth  over  the  length  of 
the  noble  street.  As  night  approaches,  the  street  is  filled 
with  people,  the  sidewalks  are  crowded,  and  all  Manila 
seems  to  be  out  on   parade. 

Driving  through  a  beautiful  suburb  that  is  lined  with 
handsome  villas  and  well-kept  grounds  of  luxuriant  green, 
we  keep  on  with  the  throng,  and  reach  "  La  Luna,"  an 
oblong  plot  of  ground  near  the  bay  shore.  La  Luna,  "  the 
night,"  is  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  long,  several  hundred 
yards  wide,  and  is  illuminated  by  reddish-black  flames  from 
hundreds  of  kerosene  lamps.  A  band  from  one  of  the 
regiments  discourses  music  from  dark  until  ten  o'clock, 
while  hundreds  of  carriao;es  containinp;  fair  women  and 
brave  men  drive  slowly  round  and  round.  Their  occupants 
enjoy  the  cool  breezes  from  the  wide  bay,  the  beautiful, 
moving  panorama,  and  the  sweet  music,  or  perhaps  alight 
to  promenade  upon  the  greensward,  and  to  exchange  greet- 
ings with  friends.  The  men,  in  white  linen  clothes,  with 
black  derby  hats,  lounge  about  with  their  cigars,  or  drop 
into  the  little  wine-shops  at  the  turn  of  the  promenade  to 
discuss  the  news  over  a  glass  of  claret. 

Wherever  one  goes  in  the  evening,  whether  to  church, 
theatre,  on  the  streets,  the  beautiful  promenade,  or  to  call 
upon  friends,  he  is  always  met  by  the  sickly,  reddish-black, 


Manila,   Philippine  Islands  429 

smoky  flame  of  kerosene.  The  dread  of  earthquakes  and 
fires  should  teach  these  people  to  throw  the  treacherous  oil 
away,  and  to  adopt  gas  or  electricity. 


A  Native  of  Manila,  Philippine  Islands. 


The  Spaniards  live  in  fine  stone  houses,  which  have  an 
air  of  wealth  and  elegance  ;  while  the  natives  live  in  huts 
of  straw  or  in  poorly  built  houses  of  wood,  often  situated 
on  low  ground,  where  they  are  built  on  piles  of  wood,  and 
can  only  be  reached  by  rude  ladders  from  the  outside.  The 
living  part  of  all   houses  is  on  the  upper  floors,  the  lower 


430      An   American   Cruiser  in   the   East 

floors  being  used  as  shops  and  store-rooms.  Many  of  the 
citizens  are  very  rich,  and  we  did  not  see  evidences  of  the 
extreme  poverty  that  is  met  with  in  other  places. 

The  native  women  dress  in  skirts  of  red  or  pink  and 
white  material,  —  usually  large  plaids,  —  a  loosely  fitting 
bodice  of  "penia  cloth,"  with  flowing  sleeves  of  white  lace. 
Their  bare  feet  are  encased  in  blue,  red,  or  green  plush 
slippers  that  have  no  backs,  and  their  hair  is  always  neatly 
dressed,  as  they  never  wear  bonnets  or  hats.  The  native 
men  wear  white  trousers  and  shirts  (the  latter  always  worn 
outside  of  the  trousers),  and  slippers  like  those  of  the 
women.  If  it  can  be  afforded,  a  black  derby  hat  completes 
the  male  costume. 

The  street  cars  are  dirty,  and  the  service  is  indifferent. 
The  cars  are  only  used  by  the  poorer  natives,  —  even  the 
Chinese  coolies  refuse  to  patronize  them.  The  city  had 
no  adequate  supply  of  water  until  very  recently,  when  a 
wealthy  citizen  gave  to  it  water-works  and  a  reservoir.  A 
contract  has  been  made  to  supply  the  city  with  electric 
lights,  but  such  matters  move  very  slowly  in  old  Manila. 
The  only  steam  railway  on  the  islands  is  one  from  Dagu- 
pan,  twenty  miles  from  Manila,  which  was  opened  for 
traffic  in    1892. 

After  our  return  from  La  Luna,  we  went  to  the  "  French 
Restaurant,"  where  we  thoroughly  enjoyed  dining  in  public 
with  Spaniards  and  some  natives  of  the  better  class.  There 
was  an  air  of  cheerfulness  about  the  place.  Everybody 
seemed  to  be  in  good  humor,  and  tobacco-smoke  curled 
about  the  room  in  an  atmosphere  already  rich  with  garlic. 
As  our  appetites  had  been  well  sharpened  by  the  day's  work, 
we  fully  appreciated  the  menu  and  our  surroundings.  The 
dinner  was  excellent,  consisting  of  fine  soup,  fish,  and 
boiled  potatoes,  mystery,  shrimp  salad,  Spanish  meat-balls, 
more  mystery,  capon  and  fried  potatoes,  claret  ad  Uhituin^ 
assorted   fruits,    small    cakes,  ice  cream,  black  coffee,  and 


Manila,    Philippine   Islands  431 

good  cigars,  —  all  for  sixty-six  cents  a  plate.  After  dinner 
we  rode  out  to  the  English  Club,  about  two  miles  up  the 
river,  where,  in  a  little  summer-house,  we  enjoyed  fragrant 
Manilas,  while  some  of  our  friends  were  trying  to  keep 
cool  by  bowling  in  the  alley.  The  night  was  quite  warm 
and  clear,  with  a  half-moon  to  light  the  way  and  make  the 
dingy  kerosene  lamps  ashamed  of  themselves.  Many  resi- 
dences were  thrown  open  and  rooms  brilliantly  illuminated 
gave  a  bright,  showy  effect  from  the  street. 

The  amusements  in  Manila  are  the  opera,  theatre,  even- 
ing receptions  with  cards  and  music,  cock-fights,  and  the 
lottery. 


A  CocK-PiT  AT  Manila,  Philippine  Islands. 


CHAPTER   XXVI 

THE     PHILIPPINES 

THE  Philippines  are  a  group  of  more  than  five  hundred 
rich  islands,  which  lie  well  off  the  coast  of  Asia, 
between  the  Tropic  of  Cancer  and  the  Equator.  For 
administrative  purposes  they  are  divided  into  twenty-seven 
provinces,  and  contain  about  eight  millions  of  people.  In 
the  early  days  of  the  Spanish  settlement,  Jesuit  missionaries 
came  to  the  islands  in  great  numbers,  and  met  with  success 
in  the  conversion  of  the  natives.  There  are  now  about  two 
thousand  priests  on  the  islands,  who  exercise  almost  un- 
limited authority  over  the  natives.  There  are  about  six 
millions  of  natives  who  acknowledge  the  Spanish  authority, 
and  pay  taxes  in  some  form  ;  but  there  are  more  than  a 
million,  in  the  inaccessible  mountains,  who  live  a  guerilla 
life,  and  resist  all  efforts  to  bring  them  under  subjection. 

Ever  since  the  Spaniards  planted  their  standard  upon  the 
soil,  in  1565,  there  have  been  strife,  rebellions,  and  wars  in 
the  islands.  In  early  days,  the  Portuguese  and  the  Dutch 
were  jealous  of  these  rich  possessions,  and  annoyed  the 
Spaniards  at  every  opportunity.  Bold  pirates  sailed  out 
from  Chinese  ports  and  raided  the  islands,  and  differences 
between  the  civil  and  ecclesiastical  authorities  have  fre- 
quently led  to  internal  dissensions  and  conflicts.  In  1762 
the  British  captured  Manila,  but  restored  it  to  Spain  after 
two  years'  occupation. 

There  are  about  twelve  thousand  troops  on  the  islands, 
of  whom  one  half  are  natives  with   Spanish   officers,  and 


The  Untamed  Indians  oi-  the  FuiLiffiMi  Islands. 


The  Philippines  435 

there  is  always  a  fleet  of  small  Spanish  war-vessels  cruising 
about  the  islands  to  maintain  order.  There  are  a  large 
number  of  ''mestizos,"  or  half-breeds,  children  of  native 
mothers  and  foreign  fathers. 

In  the  wet  season,  from  March  to  July,  the  rivers  become 
swollen  and  flooded,  and  travel  is  difficult  and  dangerous. 
In  the  dry  season,  droughts  often  occur,  when  the  ground 
is  parched  and  vegetation  burned  by  the  sun.  Locusts 
sometimes  devour  the  crops,  and  terrific  storms  are  frequent 
at  the  typhoon  season. 

The  Philippines  are  a  centre  of  volcanic  action,  and 
destructive  earthquakes  are  of  frequent  occurrence.  They 
have  shaken  down  massive  houses,  desolated  extensive  tracts 
of  land,  filled  up  valleys,  and  opened  passages  from  the  sea 
into  the  interior.  The  history  of  the  islands  is  full  of 
accounts  of  these  destructive  visitations. 

The  Jesuits  have  an  excellent  observatory  in  Manila, 
for  studv  of  the  weather,  storms,  and  earthquakes.  Instru- 
ments for  determining  the  direction,  force,  and  duration  of 
earthquakes  are  fixed  on  a  floor  which  is  suspended  from 
masonry.  The  whole  arrangement  is  automatic  and  self- 
registering,  so  that  if  an  earthquake  should  occur  during  the 
absence  of  the  observer,  it  is  supposed  to  record  itself. 
How  this  arrangement  will  work  in  actual  practice,  under 
the  given  conditions,  time  only  can  determine. 

The  earthquake  of  1796  was  a  calamity.  In  1824, 
many  churches,  the  principal  bridge,  the  barracks,  and  a 
great  number  of  private  houses  were  destroyed  in  Manila. 
A  chasm  nearly  four  miles  in  length  was  opened,  and  six 
vessels  were  wrecked  in  the  narrow  river.  The  people  all 
fled  from  the  city,  and  a  large  number  perished.  During 
the  earthquake  of  1828,  the  great  stones  of  the  gates  in  the 
city  walls  were  moved  out  of  their  places,  and  the  bells  in 
the  church  towers  were  set  ringing.  The  walls  of  churches 
and   other  buildings  were  rent,  and  hanging   lamps   swung 


43^      An   American   Cruiser  in   the   East 

through  ail  arc  of  about  five  degrees.  The  phenomena 
lasted  for  about  three  minutes,  but  there  were  no  rumbhng 
noises.  A  destructive  earthquake  occurred  in  1836,  and  a 
terrible  one  made  the  year  1880  memorable  in  the  history 


Natives  of  Manila,  Philippine  Islands. 

of  Manila,  when  a  great  portion  of  the  citv  was  wrecked. 
The  people  live  in  constant  dread  of  these  terrible  visitations, 
and  all  possible  precautions  are  taken  for  protection.  The 
houses  are  located,  planned,  and  built  with  reference  to 
safety  under  such  conditions.  They  are  large  and  imposing, 
but  have  no  architectural  pretensions. 


Cay-Sabo  River,  Cavite, 


The   Philippines  437 

The  city,  with  the  suburbs,  contains  a  population  of  three 
hundred  thousand  five  hundred. 

The  people  are  good-natured  and  orderly.  They  have 
great  respect  for  authority,  and  very  i'tw  crimes  are  com- 
mitted. The  police  force  is  strictly  military,  and  its  mem- 
bers are  natives. 

The  lottery  and  several  other  forms  of  gambling  flourish, 
and  large  revenues  are  derived  from  them.  Race  meetings 
are  held  every  spring,  when  native  and  Chinese  ponies  are 
run.  These  entertainments  are  very  popular,  and  attract 
large  numbers  of  people  from  the  islands  and  the  Chinese 
coast. 

The  climate  of  these  islands  is  healthy  but  hot.  The 
maximum  range  of  the  thermometer  is  103°  Fah.,  but  a  sea 
breeze  usually  sets  in  about  five  in  the  evening,  and  lowers 
the  temperature.  The  greatest  annual  rainfall  recorded  is 
114    inches,  and  the  least  is  84  inches. 

There  are  323  Europeans  and  Americans,  4,506  Span- 
iards, 16,520  Chinese,  47,662  Chinese  mestizos  (half- 
breeds),  4,963  Spanish  mestizos,  and  200,966  pure  natives 
in  Manila.  The  population  seems  to  be  divided  into  the 
clergy,  the  officials,  the  half-breeds,  and  native  Indians. 

The  business  hours  are  from  five  to  nine  in  the  morning 
and  from  five  to  midnight.  The  middle  of  the  day  is 
devoted  to   quiet   lounging  and   sleep. 

There  are  four  daily  newspapers  published  in  Manila, 
"  El  Diario  de  Manila,"  "  La  Oceania  Espanola,"  and  "  La 
Voz  de  Espaiia"  in  the  morning,  and  "El  Comercio"  in 
the  evening. 

Manila  Bav  is  about  one  hundred  and  thirty  miles  in 
circumference  and  almost  circular  in  shape.  Its  great  size 
and  the  absence  of  shelter  make  it  an  unsafe  anchorage 
for  vessels  during  the  tvphoon  season.  The  anchorage 
is  about  three  miles  from  the  landing,  but  small  vessels  go 
up  the  river  and  make  fast  to  walls.      Since  1880,  a  tax  of 


438      An   American   Cruiser   in   the   East 

two  per  cent  has  been  laid  on  all  imports,  and  one  per  cent 
on  all  exports,  the  income  thus  obtained  to  be  used  in 
building  a  breakwater  within  which  vessels  can  lie  in  safety 
at  all  seasons  of  the  year.  Hurricanes,  earthquakes,  and 
fearful  thunder-storms  are   frequent   in  the  rainy  season. 

The  Spanish  naval  station  at  Cavite,  opposite  the  mouth 
of  the  Pasig,  has  a  small  patent  slip  and  shops  for  the  repair 
of  vessels. 


Native  Bull  Sled,  Manila,   Philippine  Islands. 

The  public  revenue  amounts  to  about  fifteen  millions  of 
dollars  each  year.  The  principal  exports  are  two  hundred 
thousand  tons  of  sugar,  seven  hundred  thousand  bales  of 
hemp,  and  live  thousand  tons  of  coffee.  The  United  States 
and  Great  Britain  are  the  chief  markets,  and  one  hundred 
million  cigars  go  to  China  and  the  East  Indies  annually. 

The  bay  is  full  of  harmless  little  water-snakes.  Some- 
times sharks  make  excursions  up  the  bay,  but  they  are  not 
believed  to  be  harmless. 

Beef  and   other   meats  are   poor,  but  the   vegetables  and 


The   Philippines 


439 


fruits,    which    arc     in     great     variety,    are    excellent     and 
abundant. 

Manila  hemp  is  a  product  of  the  leaf-stalks  of  Musa 
textilis^  indigenous  to  these  islands,  which  the  natives 
call  "abaca."  It  is  one  of  the  most  valuable  products, 
and  requires  the  least  care  and 
attention  of  them  all,  A  false  stem, 
or  cluster  of  enclosing  leaf-stalks, 
grows  up  from  its  rhizome  to  a 
height  of  about  twenty  feet,  then 
spreads  into  unbroken  leaves  similar 
to  those  of  the  banana.  It  is  rudely 
cultivated  for  its  fibre.  When  about 
three  years  old  it  blooms,  and  this 
is  the  most  favorable  time  for  gath- 
ering  the  fibre.  The  stock  is  then 
cut,  and  the  enclosing  stalks  are 
torn  into  narrow  strips  and  cleaned 
while  fresh.  The  cleaning  is  done 
by  drawing  the  strips  between  a 
sharp  knife-edged  instrument  and  a 
block  of  hard  wood,  and  repeating 
the  operation  until  the  soft  cellular 
matter  which  surrounds  the  fibre  is 
removed,  when  the  fibre  is  hung  in 
the  open  air  to  dry.  Two  natives  will  cut  stocks  and 
separate  about  twenty-five  pounds  of  fibre  per  day.  The 
fibre  from  the  outer  layer  of  leaves  is  tough,  fully  developed, 
and  strong,  while  the  product  of  the  inner  leaves  is  increas- 
ingly thin,  fine,  and  weak. 

The  fine  fibre  is  used  by  the  natives,  without  spinning 
or  twisting  (the  ends  of  the  single  fibres  being  knotted 
together),  and  from  it  a  beautiful,  fine,  thin,  translucent, 
and  comparatively  strong  texture  known  as  "  penia-cloth  " 
is  made,  which  is  used  for  articles  of  dress  and  ornament. 


Native  Woman  of  Manila, 
Philippine  Islands. 


440     An   American   Cruiser  in   the  East 

Having  nearly  completed  our  three  years'  tour  of  duty, 
we  left  Yokohama  on  August  15,  and  after  buffeting  the 
storms,  calms,  and  fogs  of  the  broad  Pacific  for  about 
thirty-eight  days,  we  sighted  the  highlands  of  California 
on  a  beautiful  morning,  and  entered  the  Golden  Gate.  We 
gathered  on  the  poop-deck  and  sang  "  Home  Again  "  and 
"  Praise  God,"  while  every  fellow  of  us  was  filled  with 
the  sentiments  of  the  hymns,  for  even  the  brown  hills  on 
each  side  of  us  were  home  ;  and  if  we  could  have  done  so, 
I  have  no  doubt  that  some  would  have  been  quite  willing 
to  hug  the  old  hair  seals  on  Cliff  Rock  because  they  were 
Americans.  Soon  we  dropped  our  anchors  off  the  Custom 
House  wharf,  and  later  proceeded  to  the  Navy  Yard,  where 
the  flag  was  hauled  down  just  three  years  after  it  had  been 
raised. 


APPENDIX 


Appendix    I 

THE     JAPAN— CHINA     WAR 

EVER  since  the  settlement  of  foreigners  in  Korea, 
there  have  been  periodical  outbreaks  of  more  or 
less  violence  against  the  new-comers,  —  the  Japanese. 
These  outbreaks  have  been  instigated  bv  secret  societies, 
known  as  "  Tan  Haks,"  or  anti-foreigners,  whose  hatred 
was  hereditarv,  and  whose  jealousy  was  excited  and  in- 
tensified by  the  beautiful  civilization  of  the  Japanese,  and 
by  the  evidences  of  progress  and  advancement  among  the 
new   settlers. 

A  Japanese  would  be  found  murdered  in  one  part  of  the 
kingdom,  a  serious  outbreak  would  occur  in  another  part, 
the  authorities  would  be  resisted  somewhere  else,  and  law- 
abiding  people  lived   in   a   state  of  alarm  and   unrest. 

After  the  snows  had  disappeared,  the  ice  had  melted, 
and  the  roads  became  passable  in  1894,  a  rebellion  broke 
out  in  Korea,  and  soon  became  so  formidable  that  the 
government  forces  were  unable  to  suppress  it.  Korea 
called  on  China  for  assistance,  and  China,  as  by  treaty 
bound,  notified  Japan  that  she  would  send  a  force  to  sup- 
press the  outbreak.  On  June  7,  Japan  gave  China  notice 
that  she  would  also  send  a  force  to  protect  her  own  sub- 
jects resident  in  the  troubled  districts.  On  June  9,  the 
town  of  Asan,  about  fortv  miles  south  of  Seoul,  was  the 
scene  of  great  excitement  caused  bv  the  landing  of  about 
two   thousand    Chinese   troops  ;    at    about    the   same   time 


444      ^^  American   Cruiser   in   the   East 

the  Japanese  landed  five  hundred  men  from  their  fleet  at 
Chemulpo,  and   pushed  them   on   to  the   capital. 

The  Japanese  government  appreciated  the  gravity  of 
the  situation,  and  by  the  end  of  the  month  had  about  five 
thousand  men  of  the  fifth  division  of  its  army  divided 
between  Chemulpo  and  the  capital.  There  were  one 
thousand  on  the  southeast  coast,  one  thousand  at  Fu-san, 
and  one  thousand  at  Gen-san.  All  the  available  vessels  of 
the  navy  were  being  made  ready  for  war  service,  notice 
was  sent  to  the  reserves  to  join  the  colors,  war  material 
was  assembled  for  speedy  transportation,  and  transports 
were  secured  and  made  ready  for  service.  The  people 
were  patriotic  and  enthusiastic,  and  Japan  commenced  to 
send  her  forces  to  Korea,  well  supplied  and  well  guarded 
while  on  the  way. 

With  the  view  of  protecting  her  own  subjects  resident  in 
Korea,  and  to  protect  her  commerce  with  that  country, 
Japan  demanded  that  certain  methods  of  the  Korean  gov- 
ernment be  changed,  under  the  joint  protection  of  Japan 
and  China.  China  declined  the  proposition,  and  demanded 
the  withdrawal  of  the  Japanese  forces,  claiming  that  the 
rebellion  was  suppressed.  After  grave  consideration,  the 
Japanese  government,  on  the  14th  of  July,  informed  the 
Chinese  government  that  "  in  this  juncture  the  Imperial 
Japanese  government  find  themselves  relieved  of  all  re- 
sponsibility for  any  eventualitv  that  mav  in  future  arise  out 
of  the  situation." 

On  June  30,  1894,  the  Japanese  navy  consisted  of  the 
following  vessels  which  were  available  for  active  war 
service  :  — 


Name. 

Class. 

Displace- 
ments. 

Speed. 

Where  Built. 

Matsushima 

Coast  Defence    .     . 

4,277 

16 

France,  1891 

Itsukushima 

Coast  Defence    .     . 

4,277 

16.75 

France,  1891 

Hochidate    . 

Coast  Defence    .     . 

4.277 

16 

Japan, 1894 

Fiiso    .     .     . 

Armored  Cruiser     . 

3,700 

13 

England,  1878 

Chiyoda  .     . 

Armored  Cruiser     . 

2,450 

19 

England,  1890 

Hiyei  .     .     . 

Protected  Cruiser    . 

2,250 

14 

England,  1878 

Kongo      .     . 

Protected  Cruiser   . 

2,250 

14 

England,  1878 

Naniwa    .     . 

Protected  Cruiser    . 

3,650 

19 

England,  1886 

Takachiho    . 

Protected  Cruiser    . 

3,650 

18 

England,  1886 

Yoshino  .     . 

Protected  Cruiser    . 

4,150 

23 

England,  1893 

Akitsushima 

Protected  Cruiser    . 

3,150 

19 

Japan,  1894 

Tsukushi 

Gun  Vessel     .     .     . 

1,350 

16.8 

England,  1883 

Takao       .     . 

Cruiser 

1,774 

Japan,  1889 

Musashi  .     . 

Cruiser 

1,476 

Japan,  1888 

Yamato    .     . 

Cruiser 

1,476 

Japan,  1887 

Katsuragi     . 

Cruiser 

1,476 

Japan, 1887 

Teurin      .     . 

Cruiser 

1,547 

Japan,  1885 

Kaimo     .     . 

Cruiser 

1,358 

Japan, 1884 

Amagi      .     . 

Cruiser 

1,030 

Japan,  1878 

Banjo  .     .     . 

Cruiser 

656 

Japan,  1880 

Yaeyama 
Oshima    .     . 
Maya  .     .     . 

Partially  Protected 
Cruiser   .... 

Partially  Protected 
Cruiser    .... 

Gun  Vessel     .     .     . 

1,600 
639 
614 

1 

5 

Japan,  1890 
Japan,  1892 
Japan, 1890 

Atago  .     .     . 

Gun  Vessel     .     .     . 

614 

13 

Japan, 1890 

Akagi .     .     . 

Gun  Vessel     .     .     . 

614 

13 

Japan,  1890 

'Chokai     .     . 

Gun  Vessel     .     .     . 

614 

13 

Japan, 1890 

44^      An   American   Cruiser   in   the  East 

The  fleet  was  organized  into  five  squadrons,  —  the  first 
squadron  being  composed  of  the  "  Alatsushima,"  the  "Itsu- 
kushima,"  the  "  Hochidate,"  and  the  "  Chiyoda ; "  the 
second  squadron,  of  the  "  Yoshino,"  the  "  Takachiho,"  the 


Japanese  Mounted  Infantry.     By  a  Japanese  Artist. 

"Akitsushima,"  and  the  "  Naniwa ;  "  the  third  squadron 
of  the  "Fuso,"  the  "  Hiyei,"  the  "Kongo,"  and  the  "  Ta- 
kao;"  the  fourth  squadron  of  the  "  Katsuragi,"  the  ••' Yae- 
yama,"  the  "  Musashi,"  and  the  "  Teurin ; "  the  fifth 
squadron,  of  the  "  Oshima,"  the  "Banjo,"  the  "Maya," 
the    "  Atago,"    the   "  Akagi,"   and    the   "  Chokai."     The 


Appendix  447 

fleet  of  torpedo  boats  was  divided  into  three  divisions,  con- 
sisting of  six  boats  each  in  the  first  and  second  divisions, 
and  of  four  boats  in  the  third  division. 

The  Japanese  army,  with  the  colors,  consisted  of  six 
divisions  of  about  nine  thousand  men  each,  and  the  three 
divisions  of  the  Imperial  Guard  of  about  six  thousand  men 
each,  —  a  total  of  about  seventy-two  thousand  men.  To 
reinforce  these  were  the  first  and  second  reserves,  each 
containing  about  sixteen  thousand  men,  making  a  grand 
total  of  about  one  hundred  and  four  thousand  men  available 
for  active  service.  During  the  hostilities  which  ensued, 
the  forces  serving  with  the  colors  were  increased  by  recruits 
from  the  reserves,  bringing  the  active  divisions  up  to  an 
average  of  fifteen  thousand  men  each. 

The  Chinese  army  consisted  of  about  one  million  men, 
less  than  two  hundred  thousand  of  whom  had  modern  arms, 
and  these  were  of  many  styles  and  patterns,  while  their 
equipments,  organization,  and  training  were  far  from  being 
up  to  the  standard  of  Western  nations. 

The  Chinese  navy  consisted  of  the  following-named 
vessels   which   were  available  for  active  war  service :  — 


448      An  American   Cruiser  in  the  East 


Name. 

Class 

Displace- 
ments. 

Speed. 

Where  Built. 

Chen  Yuen 

I]attleship      .     .     . 

7,430 

15.5 

Germany,  1883 

Ting  Yuen  . 

Battleship      .     .     . 

7,430 

15.4 

Germany,  1883 

King  Yuen  . 

Coast  Defence  Vessel 

2,900 

15 

Germany,  1887 

Lai  Yuen     . 

Coast  Defence  Vesse' 

2,900 

15 

Germany,  1887 

Chi  Yuen    . 

Coast  Defence  Vessel 

2,355 

17.5 

Germany,  1884 

Ping  Yuen  . 

Coast  Defence  Vesse 

2,600 

10.5 

China,  1890 

Ching  Yuen 

Protected  Cruiser  . 

2,300 

1S.5 

England,  1887 

Chih  Yuen  . 

Protected  Cruiser  . 

2,300 

18.5 

England,  1887 

Ying  Wei     . 

Gun  Vessel   .     .     . 

1,350 

162 

England,  ISSl 

Chao  Yung 

Gun  Vessel    .     .     . 

1,350 

16.2 

England,  1881 

Kuang  Yi    . 

Third-Class  Cruiser 

1,030 

16.5 

China,  1891 

Kuang  Ping 

Third-Class  Cruiser 

1,030 

16  5 

China,  1891 

Kuang  Kia  . 

Third-Class  Cruiser 

1,030 

16.5 

China,  1891 

^Yci  Yuen   . 

Old  Corvette      .     . 

1,300 

.... 

Kong  Chi    . 

Old  Corvette      .     . 

1,300 

Chao  Kiang 

Despatch  Vessel    . 

500 

Chen  Pai     . 

Gun  Vessel    .     .     . 

440 

Chen  Pieu   . 

Gun  Vessel    .     .     . 

440 

Chen  Li  .     . 

Gun  Vessel    .     .     . 

440 



Chen  Chung 

Gun  Vessel    .     .     . 

440 

Chen  Nau  . 

Gun  Vessel    .     .     . 

440 

Chen  Tung 

Gun  Vessel    .     .     . 

440 



Appendix  449 

China  called  out  her  troops  for  the  purpose  of  driving  the 
Japanese  out  of  Korea,  and  Japan  determined  on  her  own 
action.  On  July  22,  China  sent  eight  transports  laden 
with  troops  from  Taku  to  Asan,  and  on  the  next  day  the 
Japanese,  believing  that  an  attempt  had  been  made  to 
abduct  the  King  of  Korea  and  take  him  to  the  Chinese 
camp,  sent  troops  to  the  palace,  drove  off  the  guards,  and 
posted  their  own  guards  at  the  entrances  for  the  protection 
of  the  King. 

Transports  arrived  off  Asan  in  the  afternoon  of  the 
24th,  and  landed  twenty-five  hundred  troops  (reinforce- 
ments for  General  Yeh)  under  cover  of  the  Chinese  war 
vessels  "  Chi  Yuen  "  and  "  Kuang  Yi,"  and,  on  the  next 
afternoon,  the  "  Wei  Yuen  "  arrived  from  Chemulpo,  with 
news  of  the  troubles  at  the  king's  palace. 

Early  in  the  morning  of  the  25th,  the  "  Wei  Yuen," 
"  Kuang  Yi,"  and  "  Tsi  Yuen  "  started  for  China,  and  at 
about  seven  o'clock,  when  off  the  island  of  Poung  Do,  thev 
were  met  by  the  Japanese  war  vessels  "  Yoshino,"  "  Akit- 
sushima,"  and  "Naniwa,"  under  command  of  Rear-Admiral 
Tsuboi.  Turrets  and  guns  were  cleared  for  action.  The 
*' Yoshino"  and  "  Akitsushima"  engaged  the  "  Wei  Yuen," 
while  the  "  Naniwa  "  went  in  hot  pursuit  of  the  "  Kuang 
Yi,"  damaging  her  so  badly  and  pressing  her  so  hard  that 
her  commander  was  forced  to  run  her  aground  on  a  shoal 
place  off  the  entrance  to  the  bay.  The  "  Naniwa  "  next 
joined  in  the  pursuit  of  the  "  Tsi  Yuen,"  which  was  fleeing 
towards  the  island  of  Shopajul,  with  badly  damaged  turret, 
steering  gear,  and  other  works. 

The  transport  "  Kowshing,"  under  the  British  flag,  was 
now  discovered  coming  in  from  the  direction  of  China,  and, 
to  the  southward,  the  Chinese  steamer  "  Tsao  Kiang  "  was 
seen  on  her  way  from  Chefoo  to  Asan.  The  "  Naniwa  " 
made  signal  for  the  "  Kowshing  "  to  anchor  about  a  mile 
from  the  island,  and  sent  an  officer  to  examine  her.      Later 

-9 


450      An   American   Cruiser  in   the  East 

in  the  morning,  the  "  Yoshino  "  continued  to  chase  the 
"  Tsi  Yuen,"  and  the  "  Akitsushima  "  started  for  the 
"  Tsao  Kiang,"  which  vessel  attempted  to  escape  to  China. 
The  "  Kowshing "  was  now  directed  to  follow  the 
"Naniwa,"  but  the  Chinese  officials  on  board  would  not 
permit  her  English  officers  to  obey  the  order.  After  several 
repetitions  and  non-compliance  with  the  order,  the  "  Na- 
niwa"  discharged  a  torpedo  at  the  "  Kowshing  "  and  opened 
fire  upon  her,  sinking  her  in  about  a  half-hour,  after  which 
the  "  Naniwa "  steamed  about  the  wreckage,  and  saved 
some  of  the  people.  The  "  Tsi  Yuen  "  finally  eluded  the 
"  Yoshino,"  when  the  latter  vessel  dropped  her  anchor,  and 
in  the  early  afternoon  the  "  Akitsushima "  returned  with 
the  "  Tsao  Kiang"  as  her  prize.  The  next  morning  the 
little  fleet  steamed  south,  and,  falling  in  with  the  "  Yae- 
yama,"  transferred  their  prisoners  to  her  for  transportation 
to  Japan. 

On  the  25th,  General  Oshima,  at  the  head  of  thirty-five 
hundred  troops,  left  Seoul  for  Asan,  where  the  Chinese 
were  in  force.  The  Chinese  checked  the  ad\'ance  p;uard  of 
one  of  the  attacking  columns,  but  later  the  Chinese  were 
met  in  considerable  force  at  Seikwan,  near  Asan,  and 
defeated.  The  main  position  at  Asan  was  abandoned  dur- 
ing the  night,  and  an  immense  quantity  of  stores  fell  into 
the  hands  of  the  Japanese.  The  Chinese  retreated,  by  a 
circuitous  route  around  Seoul,  to  Ping-yang,  and  the  Japa- 
nese returned  to  the  capital. 

Ping-yang  and  the  Yalu 

On  July  31,  the  government  of  China  made  a  formal  dec- 
laration of  a  state  of  war,  and  the  government  of  Japan  did 
the  same  thing  on  August  i. 

The  most  important  duty  assigned  to  the  Japanese  navy 
was  to   keep  the   sea  communications  between  Japan  and 


Appendix  451 

Korea  safe,  and  to  support  the  landing  of  their  armies,  and 
the  work  was  admirably  done.  The  fleet's  base  of  operations 
was  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  Kokun  Islands,  and  its 
guard  vessels  were  kept  hovering  about  the  Gulf  of  Pichili, 
watching  Ping-vang  Inlet  and  the  Shantung  Promontory, 
while  the  fifth  division  of  the  Japanese  army  and  war 
material  of  all  kinds  were  rapidly  pushed  into  Korea  under 
this  protection. 

The  Chinese  fleet  remained  in  the  Gulf  of  Pichili,  appar- 
ently indifferent  to  the  movements  of  the  Japanese,  and 
Chinese  vessels  accompanied  their  transports  from  Port 
Arthur  to  the  Yalu  without  interference  from  the  Japanese. 

On  August  10,  a  Japanese  fleet  of  twelve  vessels  and 
some  torpedo  boats  exchanged  shots  with  the  forts  at 
Wei-Hai-Wei,  but,  finding  no  large  Chinese  vessels  in  har- 
bor, they  returned  to  Korea. 

The  Chinese  were  in  considerable  force  at  Ping-yang, 
some  having  been  sent  from  Taku,  and  great  numbers 
having  crossed  over  from  Manchuria.  The  Japanese  pre- 
pared to  dislodge  them,  and  on  August  15  their  main  body 
left  Seoul  and  took  up  the  march  for  Ping-vang,  while  a 
column  of  infantry  and  artillery  left  Gen-san,  the  marches 
being  so  directed  that  a  junction  was  successfully  effected 
before  Ping-yang  was  reached.  On  August  21,  the  first 
reserves  of  the  fifth  division  under  General  Nodzu  arrived 
at  Chemulpo,  in  transports,  and  on  the  25th  they  made  a 
forced  march  to  Ping-vang,  where  they  assisted  in  the 
assault  and  capture.  In  August,  a  brigade  of  eight 
thousand  men  of  the  third  division  landed  at  Gen-san,  when 
Colonel  Sato  marched  across  the  mountains  to  Ping-yang, 
with  five  thousand  men. 

On  September  10,  thirty-five  transports  arrived  on  the 
west  coast  of  Korea,  when  six  war  vessels  assisted  them 
in  landing  the  second  brigade  of  the  third  division  (about 
ten   thousand  men),  the  pontoon  bridges   for  crossing  the 


452      An   American   Cruiser  in  the  East 

Yalu  River,  a  large  number  of  coolies,  and  vast  quantities 
of  stores  and  provisions  ;  while  the  main  body  of  the  fleet 
remained  outside  on  the  lookout. 

Ping-yang,  naturally  a  strong  position,  had  been  greatly 
strengthened  by  the  Chinese,  who  had  about  fifteen  thou- 
sand men  for  its  defence.  The  Japanese  attacking  forces 
amounted  to  about  seventeen  thousand.  On  September  15, 
the  Japanese  assaulted  the  outer  works,  advancing  in  three 
columns,  the  fighting  lasting  until  night.  The  Chinese 
retreated  towards  the  Yalu  under  cover  of  the  darkness. 
The  next  morning,  the  Japanese  took  possession  of  the 
works  and  the  city,  and  sent  a  force  in  pursuit  of  the  fleeing 
Chinese  ;  but  they  were  badly  demoralized,  and  made  no 
further  stand  on  Korean  soil.  The  Japanese  moved  up  to 
the  Yalu  River,  where  they  halted  to  await  reinforcements. 
Their  forces  now  in  Korea  consisted  of  the  third  and  fifth 
divisions,  with  strong  garrisons  at  Ping-yang,  Seoul,  Fu-san, 
and  Gen-san. 

The  Japanese  fleet  arrived  at  Ping-yang  Inlet  on  the 
morning  of  September  15,  when  the  Admiral  sent  four 
men-of-war  and  some  torpedo  boats  up  the  river  to  assist 
the  army  in  its  operations  against  the  Chinese.  The  re- 
mainder of  the  fleet  was  formed  into  two  squadrons,  and 
steamed  up  the  coast,  leaving  the  inlet  the  next  morning. 
The  first  squadron,  under  command  of  Admiral  Ito,  was 
made  up  of  the  "  Matsushima,"  "  Chiyoda,"  "  Itsuku- 
shirna,"  "  Hochidate,"  "  Hiyei,"  "  Fuso,"  and  the  "  Akagi," 
The  second  squadron,  under  command  of  Rear-Admiral 
Tsuboi,  was  composed  of  the  "  Yoshino,"  the  "  Taka- 
chiho,"  the  "  Akitsushima,"  the  "  Naniwa,"  and  the  armed 
steamer  "  Sakyo." 

The  Chinese  squadron  cruised  about  Taku,  Port  Arthur, 
Wei-Hai-Wei,  and  the  Gulf  of  Pichili,  until  the  evening 
of  September  14,  when  it  headed  for  Talienwan  Bay, 
where    it   was    joined    by    the    smaller   vessels,   and    some 


Appendix  453 

torpedo  boats.  The  entire  squadron,  under  the  command 
of  Admiral  Ting,  and  convoying  five  transports,  with  about 
five  thousand  troops  and  stores,  sailed  for  the  Yalu  River, 
where  it  arrived  on  the  i6th  and  landed  the  troops  and 
stores  under  the  guns  of  the  "  Ping  Yuen,"  "  Kuang 
Ping,"  and  the  torpedo  boats,  the  "Ting  Yuen,"  the 
"Chen  Yuen,"  the  "Lai  Yuen,"  the  "King  Yuen,"  the 
"Chi  Yuen,"  the  "  Ching  Yuen,"  the  "  Chih  Yuen," 
the  "  Chao  Yuen,"  the  "  Yung  Wei,"  the  "  Kuang  Kia," 
and  four  small  gunboats  guarding  the  approaches. 

On  the  morning  of  the  i  7th,  smoke  was  reported,  where- 
upon Admiral  Ting  got  his  fleet  underway,  and  formed  his 
line  of  battle,  —  the  two  battleships  being  in  the  centre, 
the  smaller  vessels  on  the  flanks,  and  the  gun  and  torpedo 
boats  under  cover  of  the  fleet.  The  Chinese  steamed 
slowly  up  to  meet  the  approaching  Japanese  squadrons, 
which  were  advancing  in  column. 

The  first  squadron.  Admiral  Ito,  was  in  the  lead,  and 
headed  for  the  centre  of  the  Chinese  column,  then  slowly 
changed  its  course  and  passed  its  right  wing.  When  the 
advance  vessels  of  the  Japanese  squadron  had  approached 
to  within  about  six  thousand  yards,  the  Chinese  vessels 
opened  fire  upon  them.  The  Japanese  continued  to  advance 
upon  their  enemy's  right  flank,  and  when  within  about  three 
thousand  yards  opened  a  deadly  fire. 

After  passing  the  flank,  the  "  Ping  Yuen,"  the  "  Kuang 
Ping,"  and  the  torpedo  boats  were  attacked,  but  they 
avoided  the  assault.  The  squadron  now  hastened  to  the 
support  of  the  "  Hiyei "  and  the  "  Akagi."  The  Chinese 
vessels  kept  their  bows  toward  their  enemy,  and  slowly 
swung  to  starboard,  as  the  Japanese  vessels  approached 
their  right  flank.  The  "  Fuso  "  steamed  close  in  front  of 
the  Chinese  line,  and  the  "  Hiyei,"  having  lost  her  position 
in  line,  was  compelled  to  cross  the  Chinese  line,  between 
the  "  Chen  Yuen  "  and  the  "  King  Yuen,"  and  in  so  doing 


454     -^^  American   Cruiser  in  the  East 

was  so  badly  damaged  as  to  compel  her  commander  to  seek 
protection  under  cover  of  the  vessels  which  had  turned  the 
Chinese  flank,  and  were  now  in  the  rear  of  that  fleet. 

The  "  Akagi,"  not  being  able  to  keep  up  with  the  first 
squadron,  was  exposed  to  the  assault  of  all  the  vessels  of 
the  Chinese  left  wing.  She  was  closely  pressed  by  the 
"  Lai  Yuen,"  which  vessel  was  set  on  fire,  when  the 
"  Akagi  "  was  enabled  to  withdraw.  The  second  squadron 
was  called  to  the  assistance  of  the  "  Akagi,"  and  fiercely 
assaulted  the  front  of  the  Chinese  line,  while  the  first 
squadron  was  attacking  it  in  the  rear.  The  combined 
attack  was  maintained  with  great  vigor,  the  Japanese  vessels 
slowly  withdrawing  to  long  range,  where  they  re-formed 
their  columns. 

Early  in  the  action,  the  Chinese  fleet  was  thrown  into 
disorder,  and  was  not  able  to  re-form.  The  "  Chao  Yuen  " 
and  the  "  Yuen  Wei,"  disabled  and  on  fire,  headed  for 
Talu  Tao,  where  the  "  Yung  Wei  "  sank  soon  after  reach- 
ing shoal  water,  when  her  crew  were  taken  off^  by  one  of 
the  torpedo  boats.  The  "Chao  Yung"  and  the  "  Kuang 
Kia "  were  cut  ofi:'  from  the  fleet  by  the  Japanese  first 
squadron,  and  started  to  run  from  the  battle.  In  the  panic, 
the  "  Chao  Yung  "  was  rammed  bv  the  "  Chi  Yuen,"  and 
sank  in  deep  water,  and  the  "  Chi  Yuen  "  soon  sank  as  a 
result  of  her  injuries.  All  the  other  vessels  were  more  or 
less  damaged,  and  were  dropping  away  from  the  "  Chung 
Yuen  "  and  the  "  Ting  Yuen,"  which  bravely  kept  up  the 
fight. 

The  Japanese  slowly  drew  their  vessels  out  of  range,  but 
were  followed  up  by  the  Chinese  battleships,  when  the 
battle  was  soon  renewed.  The  Japanese  second  squadron 
was  sent  after  the  retreating  Chinese  vessels,  and  sank  the 
'■'■  King  Yuen,"  while  the  first  squadron  of  five  vessels 
circled  round  and  round  the  two  Chinese  battleships  at 
long    range.      The  "  iVIatsushlma  "   was  seriously   injured. 


Appendix  455 

and  had  a  large  number  of  her  people  killed  by  beijig  struck 
by  a  twelve-inch  shell  from  the  "  Ting  Yuen." 

At  half-past  five  in  the  afternoon,  after  a  hot  engage- 
ment of  seven  hours  and  a  half,  the  Japanese  vessels 
steamed  out  of  range,  and  closed  the  action.  The 
remaining  Chinese  vessels  steamed  to  Port  Arthur,  where 
they  were  repaired.  The  "  Kuang  Kia  "  being  lost  in  the 
vicinity  of  Talienwan  Bay,  Admiral  Ito  transferred  his  flag 
to  the  "  Hochidate,"  and  during  the  night  the  fleet  stood 
out  to  sea,  returning  in  the  morning,  when  the  "  Matsu- 
shima,"  the  "  Hivei,"  and  the  "  Akagi,"  being  badlv  in- 
jured, were  sent  to  Japan  for  repairs.  The  rest  of  the 
fleet  returned  to  Ping-yang  Inlet  on  the  19th,  where  all 
the  other  vessels  were  repaired.  As  soon  as  the  vessels 
were  ready  for  service,  they  were  sent  to  cruise  in  the 
Gulf  of  Pichili,  taking  in   Port   Arthur   and   Shantung. 

Thirty-seven  transports,  containing  eighteen  thousand 
men  of  the  first  division,  arrived  in  Ping-yang  Inlet  from 
Heisoshima,  on  October  22.  They  were  convoved  from 
here  by  the  Japanese  fleet  and  sixteen  torpedo  boats  to 
Kwayeus,  about  eight v  miles  northeast  of  Port  Arthur, 
where  they  landed  on  the  24th.  The  entire  division  was 
landed  without  opposition  by  the  29th,  and  the  troops  of  the 
twelfth  brigade  of  the  sixth  division,  about  nine  thousand 
men,  which  had  been  encamped  at  Chemulpo,  were  brought 
over  and  landed  by  November  4.  These  movements  were 
guarded  by  the  vessels  of  the  fleet,  which  were  kept  cruising 
in  the  vicinity. 

The  Japanese  moved  on  to  the  town  of  Pitsewo,  and 
occupied  it.  The  advance  guard  was  then  pushed  on  to 
Kinchau,  which  was  defended  by  fifteen  thousand  Chinese 
troops.  After  an  artillery  duel  of  several  hours'  duration  and 
an  assault,  Kinchau  was  captured  on  the  6th,  the  Chinese 
fleeing   in  the  direction  of  Talienwan   and   Port   Arthur. 

On  November   6,  the  Japanese   fleet,  in  companv   with 


456      An  American   Cruiser  in  the   East 

some  tenders,  sailed  to  the  entrance  of  Talienwan  Bay, 
leaving  the  vessels  of  their  third  squadron  and  a  few  others 
to  protect  the  enemy's  base.  The  tenders  searched  for 
mines,  while  the  war  vessels  steamed  back  and  forth  across 
the  entrance  to  the  bay  to  draw  upon  themselves  the  fire 
of  the   forts. 

On  the  morning  of  the  7th,  three  of  the  vessels  entered 
Talienwan  Bay,  and  two  entered  Keu  Bay,  where  they 
found  that  the  forts  had  been  abandoned  by  the  Chinese, 
and  were  occupied  by  their  own  troops.  The  mines  were 
soon  removed,  and  Talienwan  Bay  was  made  the  base  of 
operations  for  the  Japanese   forces. 

The  vessels  of  the  Chinese  squadron  that  had  been  in- 
jured at  the  battle  at  Ping-yang  Inlet  were  now  repaired 
and  ready  for  service  ;  and  having  received  their  stores  at 
Taku,  they  sailed  for  Wei-Hai-Wei  on  the  12th.  The 
Japanese  Admiral  Ito,  with  the  first,  second,  and  third 
squadrons,  and  six  torpedo  boats,  steamed  about  the  en- 
trance to  Wei-Hai-Wei  on  the  i6th  and  17th,  in  the  hope 
of  drawing  the  Chinese  vessels  out.  On  the  i8th,  he 
returned  to  Talienwan  Bay,  leaving  the  second  squadron 
to  watch  the  Chinese  fleet.  On  the  same  day,  the  "  Chen 
Yuen  "  struck  upon  a  rock  off  Hwang  Island,  at  the  en- 
trance of  Wei-Hai-Wei  Bay,  and  received  serious  injuries. 

On  the  13th  the  twelfth  brigade  reached  Kinchau,  and 
on  the  17th  the  march  was  taken  up  for  Port  Arthur. 

The  works  at  Port  Arthur  were  very  strong  on  the  sea 
side,  and  on  the  land  side  were  formed  of  redoubts  of  stone 
and  earth,  which  commanded  the  hills  for  about  three  miles 
from  the  arsenal.  These  were  connected  by  a  wall  that 
was  of  some  value  as  a  means  of  defence,  and  mounted 
guns  of  various  calibres,  from  Krupps  down  to  machine 
guns  and  Catlings.  Ten  of  these  works  were  located  on 
the  left  hand  and  two  on  the  right  hand  of  the  main 
road,  and   lines  of  rifle-pits  covered  their  rear  from   the  top 


Appendix  457 

of  a  steep  ridge,  being  garrisoned  by  about  thirteen  thousand 
troops,  while  the  Japanese  force  was  twenty  thousand,  of 
whom  about  fifteen  thousand  were  in  the  action. 

On  the  1 8th,  when  about  eight  miles  from  Port  Arthur, 
the  Japanese  advance  was  met  by  a  large  body  of  Chinese, 
who  wounded  a  number  of  the  Japanese,  and  drove  them 
back  to  their  main  body.  The  Japanese  steadily  advanced 
in  three  columns,  having  fifty  field  and  mountain  and 
twenty-four  siege  guns.  On  the  20th,  the  Chinese  made 
a  sortie  in  force  in  two  columns,  threatening  the  Japanese 
right.  A  single  shell  put  one  column  to  flight,  and  the 
other  was  driven  back  after  some  little  fighting.  A  Chinese 
force  of  about  one  thousand  advanced  to  meet  the  Japanese 
right  column,  and  was  soon  repulsed.  The  Japanese  com- 
mander of  the  right  column  then  paid  his  respects  to  the 
forts  on  the  west  of  the  main  road,  which  he  soon  captured. 
The  centre  and  left  then  pushed  forward  under  cover  of  the 
artillery  fire,  and  captured  the  works  in  front  of  them, 
meeting  with  little  resistance.  The  Chinese  fled  in  the 
direction  of  Port  Arthur,  leaving  guns,  stores,  and  ammuni- 
tion in  good  condition.  They  were  pursued,  the  rifle-pits 
on  the  ridge  were  soon  captured,  and  at  two  in  the  after- 
noon the  Japanese  troops  occupied  the  camp. 

Several  of  the  forts  on  the  sea  side  were  captured  on  the 
same  day,  and  the  remaining  works  were  found  abandoned 
on  the  22d.  The  Chinese  garrison  was  badly  demoralized, 
and  no  attempts  have  been  made  to  destroy  any  of  the 
works,  as  forts  and  navy-yards  were  found  to  be  in  good 
condition. 

On  the  2 1  St  of  November,  the  Japanese  fleet,  except  the 
third  squadron,  which  was  on  guard  at  Talienwan,  steamed 
about  the  entrance  to  Port  Arthur,  some  of  the  vessels  of 
the  fourth  squadron  exchanging  shots  with  the  forts. 
Late  in  the  day,  two  torpedo  boats  came  out  of  the  harbor, 
when  some  of  the  Japanese  torpedo  boats  destroyed  them 


458      An   American   Cruiser   in   the   East 

under  the  guns  of  the  western  forts.  The  fleet  remained 
off  the  harbor  all  night,  and  on  the  next  day  found  their 
army  in  possession  of  the  place.  The  entrance  was  soon 
cleared  of  mines  and  torpedoes,  when  Port  Arthur  became 
the  base  of  Japanese  operations. 

The   Invasion  of   Manchuria 

While  the  Japanese  were  awaiting  reinforcements  on 
the  left  bank  of  the  Yalu  River,  the  Chinese  had  selected 
a  naturally  strong  position  on  the  right  bank,  and  erected 
earthworks.  On  October  24,  the  Japanese  began  the 
passage  of  the  Yalu  in  columns.  One  column  forded  the 
river  about  twenty-five  miles  above  its  mouth,  while  the 
main  body  crossed  on  a  pontoon  bridge  near  the  city  of 
Wiju.  On  the  next  day,  the  Japanese  charged  the  Chinese 
and  defeated  them,  part  fleeing  towards  Kiuliencheng,  and 
the  others  towards  Antong.  The  Japanese  followed  the 
Chinese  and  captured  Kiuliencheng  on  the  next  day  with- 
out opposition.  The  Chinese  forces  in  these  encounters 
amounted  to  about  twenty-five  thousand. 

The  Chinese  retreated  in  the  direction  of  Fenhugangen, 
on  the  main  road  to  Monkden,  and  through  Antong  on  the 
road  to  Takushan,  about  thirty  miles  west  of  the  entrance 
to  the  Yalu  Kiver.  They  were  hotly  pursued  in  both 
directions,  and  were  so  badly  demoralized  that  they  aban- 
doned fieldpieces,  small  arms,  and  great  quantities  of  stores 
and  ammunition. 

General  Tatsumi  entered  Fenghuanchung  at  the  head  of 
his  brigade  on  the  31st,  and  found  the  Chinese  fleeing  in 
two  directions,  some  on  the  road  to  Monkden,  while  others 
went  in  the  direction  of  Haichang.  General  Oseka  pursued 
the  enemy  to  Siyuen,  when  they  fell  back  to  Semencheng, 
v/hich  is  situated  on  the  Siyuen  and  Inku  cross-roads. 

The  third  division,  under  General  Katsura,  attacked  the 


Appendix 


459 


Chinese  near  Sumuchang,  and  dio\cthcm  towards  Haichang, 
which  was  captured  and  occupied  by  the  Japanese  on  the 
13th.  Here  they  intrenched  themselves  and  rested.  About 
the  same  time,  General  Tatsumi,  with  the  fifth  division, 
was  doing  some  hard  work  in  forced  marches,  fighting  his 
way  towards  Liaoyang,  where  the  Chinese  offered  consider- 
able resistance,  and  made  numerous  attempts  to  cut  off 
their  communications.      The  Japanese  advance  met  a  force 


Imperial  Chinese  Troops. 

which  checked  them  at  Matien  Pass,  on  the  Monkden 
road,  but  they  made  no  effort  to  capture  the  pass,  and 
General  Ito  harassed  them  by  making  several  attempts,  all 
of  which  were  unsuccessful,  to  cut  off  the  Japanese  com- 
munications with  the  Yalu  Ri\'er. 

The  Japanese  found  the  Chinese  in  considerable  numbers 
a  few  miles  west  of  Haichang,  and  only  succeeded  in  driv- 
ing them  off  after  several  hours  of  hard  fighting,  during 
which  the  loss  on  both  sides  was  very  heavy.  The 
Chinese  retreated  towards  Nieuchwang. 


460     An   American   Cruiser  in  the  East 

About  the  end  of  December,  General  Nogi  left  Kinchau 
for  Kaiping  with  a  brigade  of  the  first  division  of  the  second 
army,  which  had  been  engaged  at  Port  Arthur.  He 
reached  Kaiping  on  January  10,  and  drove  the  Chinese  out 
with  great  loss,  and  as  he  was  now  within  supporting  dis- 
tance of  the  third  division  at  Haichang,  he  opened  commu- 
nication with  it.  The  first  division  soon  came  up,  under 
the  command  of  Lieutenant-General  Yamigi,  when  their 
forces  were  united. 

The  Japanese  now  held  Kaiping,  Haichang,  and  Feng- 
huanchung,  and  kept  their  communications  open  with 
Takushan,  Kiuliencheng,  and  Antong,  which  position 
remained  practically  unchanged  until  the  end  of  February. 
The  Chinese  confronted  them  in  superior  numbers,  there 
being  a  corps  at  Liaoyang,  another  at  Nieuchwang,  and  one 
at  Tienchwangtai,  which  also  held  the  Inku.  In  January 
and  February  they  made  several  attempts  to  recapture 
Haichang,  but  they  were  driven  ofi^  with  small  loss  to  the 
Japanese. 

After  the  capture  of  Port  Arthur,  the  Japanese  fleet 
steamed  about  the  Gulf  of  Pichili,  and  the  entrance  to 
Wei-Hai-Wei,  using  coal  that  had  been  captured  at  Port 
Arthur.  On  January  18,  the  "  Yoshino,"  the  "  Akitsu- 
shima,"  and  the  "  Takachiho  "  made  a  demonstration  before 
Tenchan,  about  seventy  miles  west  of  Wei-Hai-Wei,  which 
was  repeated  on  the  next  day.  These  vessels  then  rejoined 
the  fleet  in  Talienwan  Bay,  where  they  found  the  whole  of 
the  second  division,  and  the  eleventh  brigade  of  the  sixth 
division,  —  about  twenty  thousand  men  in  all,  —  assembled 
on  fifty  transports  which  had  arrived  from  Uijina. 

In  the  evening,  the  fleet  convoyed  twenty  of  the  trans- 
ports, with  troops,  to  Yungching  Bay,  on  the  Shantung 
Promontory,  after  which  they  took  a  threatening);  position 
at  the  entrance  to  Wei-Hai-Wei,  By  the  23d,  all  the 
transports  had  arrived  and  landed  their  troops,  not,  however. 


Appendix  46 1 

until  one  of  the  vessels  had  opened  fire  and  dispersed  the 
Chinese  who  opposed  the  landing. 

Wei-Hai-Wei  was  defended  against  attack  from  the  sea 
by  strong  earthworks  on  both  the  mainland  and  the  islands, 
and  heavy  guns  commanded  both  entrances.  The  land 
side  was  protected  by  earthworks  that  were  mounted  with 
field-guns,  and  the  eastern  islands  had  a  clay  wall  about 
five  feet  thick.  On  the  western  side,  a  parapet  of  sand- 
bags had  been  built,  and  mounted  with  a  number  of  10.5 
centimetres,  and  a  machine  gun.  The  approaches  were  all 
mined.  The  island  of  Lingking  had  in  barbette  a  number 
of  guns,  ranging  from  field-guns  up  to  9.4  inches  calibre, 
and  there  was  a  well-built  fort  on  Channel  Island  which 
mounted  two  8-inch  and  a  number  of  smaller  guns. 

The  Japanese  advance  guard  occupied  Yungching  on 
the  20th,  and  on  the  25th  the  Japanese  moved  forward  in 
two  columns.  The  eleventh  brigade  moved  along  the 
northern  road,  while  the  second  division  took  the  southern 
road,  having  daily  encounters  with  a  large  body  of  Chinese 
who  were  retreating  before  it.  These  roads  were  very 
difficult, —  mere  bridle-paths,  and  almost  impassable. 

Notwithstanding  the  fieldpieces  had  not  come  up,  the 
eastern  works  were  assaulted  at  about  nine  o'clock  on  the 
morning  of  the  30th,  and  by  a  quarter  of  one  o'clock  were 
in  the  possession  of  the  Japanese.  The  larger  vessels 
remained  in  position  to  assist  in  the  attack  if  necessary, 
but  the  active  work  was  done  by  the  smaller  ones.  A 
party  of  officers  and  men  from  the  fleet  manned  one  of  the 
captured  forts  at  the  eastern  entrance,  and  opened  a  hot 
fire  on  the  Channel  Island  fort.  The  fort  on  Channel 
Island,  the  eastern  forts,  and  the  imprisoned  Chinese  fleet 
replied  with  spirit.  A  battalion  of  Japanese  troops  was 
deployed  across  the  beach  to  intercept  the  Chinese,  who 
were  fleeing  from  the  eastern  forts.  While  engaged  with 
the  Chinese,  their  line  was  enfiladed  by  the  fire  from  several 


462      An  American   Cruiser  in   the   East 

of  their  own  vessels,  and  the  battalion  was  nearly  annihi- 
lated. On  the  next  day,  the  Japanese  southern  column 
took  position  across  the  western  promontory.  The  left 
of  this  line  encountered  the  frenzied  Chinese,  who  were 
fleeing  from  the  western  forts,  and  sustained  great  loss. 
After  receiving  reinforcements,  they  drove  the  Chinese  off 
in  the  direction  of  Chefoo.  The  western  forts  were 
abandoned,  and  Wei-Hai-VVei  was  occupied  without  further 
resistance. 

The  smaller  vessels  of  the  Japanese  fleet  were  compelled 
to  leave  their  station  at  the  entrance  to  the  harbor,  and 
find  shelter  from  a  severe  gale  and  snowstorm  which  raged 
for  three  days.  On  the  3d,  the  vessels  returned  and 
exchanged  shots  with  the  forts  to  divert  attention  from  the 
parties  who  were  examining  the  entrances  to  the  harbor. 
A  channel  was  found  on  the  east  side,  and  at  two  o'clock 
on  the  morning  of  the  5th,  ten  torpedo  boats  left  the  lee 
of  Three-Peaked  Point,  and  raced  for  the  entrance.  Eight 
of  them  succeeded  in  entering  the  harbor,  and  immediately 
attacked  the  Chinese  fleet,  firing  eleven  torpedoes.  One 
torpedo  from  boat  No.  9  struck  the  "  Ting  Yuen,"  when 
she  was  run  into  shoal  water  and  sank  ;  later  the  Chinese 
blew  her  up.  No.  9  received  a  shot  in  her  boiler,  and,  being 
helpless,  was  abandoned.  No.  22  grounded  in  trying  to  leave 
the  harbor,  and  was  lost.  On  the  morning  of  the  6th,  under 
cover  of  the  darkness,  five  torpedo  boats  started  for  the 
harbor.  Four  succeeded  in  entering,  and  discharged  several 
torpedoes,  sinking  the  "  Lai  Yuen,"  the  "  Wei  Yuen," 
and  the  tender  "  Panfah."  After  the  exploit,  all  the  torpedo 
boats  returned  safely,  when  some  of  the  Japanese  vessels 
and  the  eastern  forts  manned  by  Japanese  opened  fire  on 
the  Chinese  fleet  and  island  forts.  On  the  7th,  the  maga- 
zine on  Channel  Island  exploded,  and  the  fort  was  soon 
abandoned.  The  Chinese  torpedo  fleet  tried  to  escape  by 
the  western  entrance,  but  they  were  chased,   and   were  all 


Appendix  463 

captured  or  destroyed  by  the  first  squadron.  On  the  9th, 
the  Japanese  placed  mortar  batteries  in  position  near  the 
western  forts,  and  opened  fire  on  the  Lingking  batteries  at 
the  same  time  the  eastern  forts  opened  on  the  island  and 
the  Chinese  fleets.  The  firing  lasted  all  day,  and  the 
"  Ching  Yuen"  was  sunk.  On  the  nth,  the  Japanese 
fleet  opened  fire  on  the  island  forts,  but  a  strong  wind  and 
heavy  sea  compelled  the  ships  to  stop  firing,  and  draw  out 
of  range.  During  the  winter  months,  the  operations  of 
the  Japanese  fleet  were  frequently  interrupted  by  foul 
weather. 

On  the  1 2th,  Admiral  Ting  proposed  to  capitulate  to 
Admiral  Ito,  and  on  the  17th  the  Japanese  fleet  steamed 
into  the  harbor,  and  took  possession  of  the  remaining  ves- 
sels of  the  Chinese  fleet,  and  of  the  forts.  Admiral  Ting 
committed  suicide.  The  oflicers  who  had  been  captured 
were  sent,  with  the  dead  Admiral,  to  Chefoo  in  the  prize 
vessel  "  Kang  Chi,"  which  the  Japanese  furnished  for  the 
purpose.  The  "Chen  Yuen,"  the  "  Tei  Yuen,"  the 
"  Ping  Yuen,"  the  "  Kuang  Ping,"  and  six  of  the  small 
gunboats  were  among  the  prizes,  all  of  which  were  sent 
to  Japan,  except  the  "  Chen  Yuen,"  which  was  sent  to 
Port  Arthur  for  repairs.  The  forts  and  guns  on  the  main- 
land were  destroyed,  the  army  was  gradually  withdrawn  to 
Talienwan,  and  by  the  end  of  February  there  only  remained 
320  men,  and  a  naval  force  to  look  after  Lingking. 

The  Spring  Campaign  in  Manchuria 
The  first  division  of  the  second  army,  under  command 
of  Lieutenant-General  Yamagi,  was  at  Kaiping,  and  part 
of  the  fifth  division,  under  General  Nodzu,  was  at  Haichang, 
when  an  advance  was  ordered.  On  February  24,  troops 
were  sent  out  from  Kaiping,  and,  after  some  hard  fighting, 
Tapingsham  was  captured.  A  few  davs  later,  General 
Katsuma  left  Haichang  with  a  force,  and  pushed  the  Chinese 


464    An   American   Cruiser   in   the   East 

back  some  fifteen  miles  on  the  Laivang  Road,  and  then 
went  in  the  direction  of  Nieuchwang.  At  the  same  time,  a 
part  of  the  fifth  division  made  a  direct  attack  from  Hai- 
chang,  and  captured  the  place  on  March  4,  after  a  severe 
fight,  which  lasted  from  ten  in  the  morning  until  eleven  at 
night.  The  Chinese  kept  up  a  street  fight,  and  defended 
themselves  house  by  house.       Lieutenant-General  Yamagi 


Japanese  Artillery.     By  a  Japanese  Artist. 

pushed  on  to  Inku,  which  he  took  possession  of  on  the  7th, 
the  Chinese  fleeing  in  all  directions  across  the  frozen  river. 
On  the  9th,  the  first  army,  assisted  bv  a  brigade  of  the 
second  army,  moved  on  the  Chinese  at  Tienchwangtai,  on 
the  west  side  of  the  Liao  River,  and  captured  the  place  after 
several  hours'  fighting.  The  main  body  of  the  Chinese 
had  retreated  before  the  assault  began,  leaving  a  small  rear- 
guard to  repeat  the  story  of  Nieuchwang,  a  running  street 
fight,  and  from  house  to  house. 


Appendix  465 

The  Pescadores  and  Formosa 

The  first  and  second  squadrons  were  refitted  in  Japan, 
and  made  ready  for  operations  against  Formosa.  The  remain- 
ing vessels  of  the  fleet  continued  cruising  about  the  Gulf 
of  Pichili. 

The  seven  war  vessels  under  command  of  Admiral  Ito 
convoyed  five  transports,  with  about  three  thousand  troops 
and  a  battery  of  mountain  artillery,  and  came  to  anchor  off 
Pachan  Island,  Pescadores,  on  March  20.  On  the  23d,  the 
troops  were  landed  on  Ponghan  under  cover  of  the  fleet. 
Three  of  the  vessels  eng-aged  a  fort  about  four  miles  to  the 
westward,  and  a  fort  nearer  Makung.  After  the  troops  were 
established  on  shore,  three  more  vessels  were  sent  to  assist 
against  the  forts,  and  at  about  two  in  the  afternoon  the 
Chinese  abandoned  the  lower   fort. 

On  the  morning  of  the  24th,  the  Japanese  advanced 
against  Makung,  on  the  west  side  of  Ponghan,  where  the 
Chinese  soon  abandoned  their  works,  fleeing  to  Fisher  Island 
in  junks.  The  Japanese  soon  found  that  the  Chinese  had 
carried  oft'  the  movable  parts  of  the  guns.  As  soon  as  the 
Japanese  flag  was  raised  upon  the  fort,  at  half-past  eleven 
in  the  morning,  the  Chinese  forts  opened  fire  upon  it  from 
Fisher  Island.  Lieutenant  Inouye  of  the  navy,  with  thirty 
men,  had  accompanied  the  army.  He  was  able  to  get 
the  disabled  guns  in  working  order,  and  turned  their  fire 
upon  Fisher  Island.  Not  getting  a  return  fire,  he  crossed 
over  in  a  sampan  at  night,  and  found  that  the  Chinese  had 
abandoned  their  forts  and  escaped  to  the  mainland.  After 
searching  for  mines,  the  fleet  entered  the  harbor  on  the  26th, 
but  moved  outside  again  on  account  of  cholera  among  the 
troops. 

By  the  terms  of  the  armistice,  which  became  effective  on 
March  30,  active  operations  were  suspended  in  the  districts 
of  Monkden,  Chili,  and  Shantung.      The  Japanese  were  in 

30 


466    An  American   Cruiser  in   the  East 

force  at  Talienwan  and  Kinchan,  and  additional  troops  were 
being  assembled  in  Japan.  The  Chinese  were  in  force  at 
Kuiu,  at  Monkden,  at  Sharhaiwan,  at  Taku,  at  Tientsin, 
and  in  great  numbers  in  the  vicinity  of  Peking,  which  city, 
it  was  feared,  would  be  next  assailed.  The  Japanese  fleet 
had  full  control  of  the  seas,  and  there  was  no  important 
Chinese  force  south  of  the  Japanese  lines. 

The  Japanese  Imperial  Guard  arrived  at  Kulung,  For- 
mosa, about  the  end  of  May,  as  an  army  of  occupation. 

The  treaty  of  peace  was  signed  by  the  representatives 
of  the  two  Powers  on  April  17,  1895,  and  ratifications  by 
the  Emperors  of  Japan  and  China  were  exchanged  on 
May  8.  The  treaty  provided  for  the  full  and  complete 
surrender  of  Korea  ;  the  cession  by  China  to  Japan  of 
Formosa  and  the  Pescadores ;  the  payment  of  a  war  in- 
demnity of  200,000,000  taels ;  the  opening  to  trade  of 
several  Chinese  cities  hitherto  closed  ;  the  extension  of 
Japanese  steam  navigation  to  several  rivers  in  China  ;  and 
the  security  of  certain  rights  to  Japanese  subjects  in  China. 
Japan  agreed  to  evacuate  Chinese  territory  within  three 
months,  but  to  occupy  Wei-Hai-Wei  temporarily,  at  the 
partial  expense  of  China,  as  a  guarantee  of  the  faithful 
performance  of  the  stipulations  of  the  treaty ;  prisoners 
of  war  were  to  be  exchanged,  and  Chinese  subjects  who 
had  been  compromised  in  their  relations  with  the  Japanese 
army  were  not  to  be  punished. 

Japan  was  also  to  have  possession  of  the  southern  part 
of  the  Feng-tien,  including  Port  Arthur,  but  by  an  Im- 
perial rescript,  dated  June  10,  1895,  the  Japanese  Govern- 
ment expressed  the  intention  of  leaving  this  territory  under 
Chinese  jurisdiction.      The  document  reads  thus  :  — 

"  Since,  then,  the  Government  of  their  Majesties,  the  Emperors 
of  Russia  and  Germany  and  of  the  Republic  of  France,  have  united 
in  a  recommendation  to  our  Government  not  to  permanently  pos- 
sess   the    peninsula  of  Feng-tien,  our  newly  acquired  territory,  on 


Appendix  467 

the  ground  that  such  permanent  possession  would  be  detrimental 
to  the   lasting  peace   of  the    Orient. 

"  Devoted  as  we  unalterably  are,  and  ever  have  been,  to  the 
principles  of  peace,  we  were  constrained  to  take  up  arms  against 
China  for  no  other  reason  than  our  desire  to  secure  for  the  Orient 
an  enduring  peace. 

"Now  the  friendly  recommendation  of  the  three  Powers  was 
equally  prompted  by  the  same  desire.  Consulting,  therefore,  the 
best  interests  of  peace,  and  animated  by  a  desire  not  to  bring  upon 
our  people  added  hardship,  or  to  impede  the  progress  of  national 
destiny  by  creating  new  complications,  and  thereby  making  the 
situation  difficult  and  retarding  the  restoration  of  peace,  we  do  not 
hesitate  to  accept  such  recommendation." 

Formosa  and  the  Pescadores  were  formally  transferred 
from  China  to  Japan  at  Kulung,  Formosa,  on  the  2d  day 
of  June,  by  the  Chinese  High  Commissioner  to  Admiral 
Kalayama,  the  Japanese  Governor-General.  He  found  that 
the  Chinese  officials  and  troops  had  been  withdrawn,  but 
the  aboriginal  natives,  whose  fears  and  prejudices  had  been 
played  upon,  were  in  a  state  of  rebellion  and  war.  His 
troops,  therefore,  had  to  fight  their  way  and  restore  order 
out  of  the  chaos  which  reigned  in  those  beautiful  islands. 

During  the  entire  war,  623  Japanese  were  killed  in 
battle;  2,489  died  of  cholera ;  2,981  died  of  other  diseases; 
and  of  the  3,155  wounded,  172  died  of  their  wounds.  It 
is  not  known  how  many  Chinese  were  killed  and  wounded, 
as  their  organization  was  too  imperfect  to  justify  even  an 
approximate  estimate  of  the  numbers. 

There  were  some  splendid  duels  on  field  and  deck,  but 
the  discipline,  steadiness,  and  equipment  of  the  Japanese 
were  too  much  for  the  ill-armed  and  worse-disciplined 
troops   and   sailors  under  the  "  dragon   flag." 

Through  innumerable  hardships,  in  the  face  of  the 
typhoons  and  during  the  terrible  winter  of  Manchuria,  the 
Japanese  sailors  and   soldiers  bore  themselves  as  m.en  con- 


468      An  American   Cruiser  in   the   East 

scious  of  their  strength,  and  were  humane  and  generous  to 
their  vanquished  foes.  Scanty  rations  and  medicines  were 
shared  with  enemies.  The  wounded,  the  women,  and  the 
children  were  cared  for  and  succored.  Safeguards  and  pro- 
tection were  thrown  about  the  captured  towns  and  villages, 
and  justice  was  shown  toward  the  humblest. 


Appendix   II 


MORE    ABOUT    THE     PHILIPPINES 

THE  Philippines  lie  between  5  and  22  degrees  of  north 
latitude  and  117  and  127  degrees  of  east  longitude, 
about  six  hundred  and  thirty  miles  from  the  coast  of  China, 
with  the  China  Sea  washing  their  western  shores  and  the 
Pacific  Ocean  dashing  its  spray  against  the  green-crowned 
rocks  and  upon  the  beaches  of  their  eastern  coasts. 

A  glance  at  a  map  of  the  world  will  show  the  distance 
from  San  Francisco  to  Hawaii  to  be  about  two  thousand 
miles,  from  Hawaii  to  the  Caroline  Islands  about  as  much 
more,  and  from  the  Carolines  to  the  Philippines  it  is  about 
the  same,  making  the  whole  distance  from  San  Francisco 
to  the  Philippines  a  little  more  than  seven  thousand  miles, 
through  summer  seas  and  delightful  breezes,  on  almost  the 
identical  track  that  was  traversed  by  the  old  Spanish  gal- 
leons in  their  journeys  between  Mexico  and  the  Philippines 
during  the  first  three  hundred  years  after  the  settlement 
of  the  Philippines  by  the  Spaniards.  It  must  be  remem- 
bered that  all  communication  between  Spain  and  the 
islands  was  kept  up  by  way  of  Mexico  until  1818,  when 
Mexico  freed  herself  from  Spanish  rule. 

The  Philippines  are  not  on  the  direct  course  of  the  regu- 
lar mail  lines  which  ply  along  the  coast  of  China,  and  are 
seldom  visited  by  tourists,  and  thus  their  natural  beauties 
have  not  been  seen  and  enjoyed  to  the  extent  that  most 
other  lands  have  been.      Their  delightful  climate  has  not 


47 


o      An   American   Cruiser  in   the   East 


been  known ;  and  the  quaint  old  city  of  Manila  has  not 
been  much  explored  nor  its  beauties  enjoyed  or  appreciated, 
even  by  many  who  think  they  have  seen  the  world. 

The  Philippines  consist  of  some  one  thousand  islands, 
islets,  and  rocks,  which  contain  52,500  square  miles  of  as 
varied  and  beautiful  scenery  and  fertile  lands  as  can  be  found 
under  the  sun.  The  climate  is  a  perpetual  summer,  where 
the  thermometer  ranges  between  60°  and  90°,  and  there  are 
three  well-marked  seasons  of  the  year,  —  the  first  cold  and 
dry,  lasting  from  November  to  March ;  when  it  becomes 
warm,  but  is  still  dry,  until  June ;  when  the  wet  season 
beo-ins,  and  lasts  until  November.  The  land  is  clothed  with 
a  rich  verdure  that  is  interspersed  with  beautiful  flowers  and 
trees  throughout  the  year.  The  numerous  mountains,  dark 
valleys  and  lowlands,  waterfalls,  cascades,  bays,  and  streams 
make  it  an  ideal  home  for  the  lounger  or  health-seeker; 
and  the  gentle  breezes  which  spring  up  at  the  setting  of 
the  sun  give  strength  and  life.  Almost  every  form  of  life 
thrives  here,  while  about  eight  millions  of  inhabitants  enjoy 
its  bounty  and  beauties. 

The  principal  islands  are  Luzon,  Panay,  Negros,  Cebu, 
Saman,  Mindanao,  and  Levte.  Manila,  on  the  island  of 
Luzon,  Cebu,  on  the  island  of  Cebu,  Ilo  Ilo,  on  the  island 
of  Panay,  and  Zamboango,  on  Mindanao,  are  the  open 
ports  for  foreign  trade  ;  but  the  regulations  and  restrictions 
are  almost  prohibitive,  except  at  Manila,  where  there  is 
more  liberality,  but  manv  obstructions  and  hindrances  to 
commerce  exist  even  there.  If  these  regulations  were 
properly  modified  and  intelligentlv  administered,  these  would 
become  thriving  cities  of  vast  proportions,  for  they  are  sur- 
rounded by  countries  that  are  proverbially  fertile,  rich  in 
mineral  deposits,  and  teeming  with  a  native  population  that 
is  eager  to  have  restrictions  to  their  industrv  removed. 

The  Spaniards  ha\'e  been  in  possession  of  the  coast  of  the 
islands  for  more  than  three  hundred  vears ;   but  the  natives 


Appendix  47 1 

in  the  foot-hills  and  on  the  high  lands  have  never  been 
brought  into  subjection  to  them,  as  they  have  always  resisted 
and  waved  fierce  war  against  their  would-be  masters. 

The  Spaniards  found  the  islands  settled  by  a  brown  race, 
supposed  to  be  descended  from  Malays,  whose  ancestors 
settled  here  many  centuries  ago,  and  who  had  reached  a  high 
state  of  civilization  before  their  advent.  The  people  of  the 
northern  islands,  including  Luzon,  are  called  "  Togalogs ;  " 
those  of  the  middle  islands,  "  Visayas ;  "  and  the  southern, 
"  Sulus."  The  Togalogs  are  of  medium  stature,  copper- 
colored,  inclining  to  brown,  with  pleasant  features,  black 
eyes,  small,  well-formed  nose,  large  mouth,  small  and  deli- 
cate hands  and  feet,  coarse  black  hair,  and  scant  beard. 
They  have  generous  instincts,  and  are  the  most  civilized 
and  hospitable  of  all  these  people.  The  Visayas,  who  in- 
habit the  southern  middle  islands,  are  descended  from  the 
Togalogs  amalgamated  with  the  Mussulmans  of  the  far 
South,  and  are  less  civilized,  having  brutish  instincts. 
Negros  was  peopled  by  criminals  who  fled  from  Luzon  and 
its  neighboring  islands,  and  are  the  lowest  order  of  people 
on  the  islands.  They  were  a  lawless  set  until  about  fifty 
years  ago,  when  they  committed  some  terrible  atrocities, 
and  extraordinary  means  were  used  to  subdue  them,  and 
they  were  brought  under  subjection. 

These  races  have  always  had  great  antipathy  for  each 
other,  and  the  people  of  each  despise  those  of  the  others  to 
this  day.  The  people  of  Sulu  and  the  tribes  in  the  southern 
middle  islands  —  Basilin,  Balibac,  Paragua,  and  Mindanao  — 
reject  all  authority  except  that  of  their  own  chiefs  and  the 
protectorate  of  the  Sultan  of  Sulu.  They  are  believers  in 
Mahomet,  and  are  impatient  at  all  overtures  to  change  their 
religion.  It  is  believed  that  the  sultanate  was  founded,  about 
eight  hundred  years  ago,  by  Mussulmans  from  Lidia  and 
China.      The  present  capital  of  the  sultan  is  at  Mayburn. 

Early  in  the  fifteenth  century,  Hernando  de  Maghallans, 


472     An  American   Cruiser  in  the  East 

a  Portuguese  nobleman  of  good  education,  disgusted  with 
the  treatment  which  he  received  in  his  own  country,  abjured 
Portugal,  and  became  a  Spanish  subject.  The  King  of  Spain 
received  him  kindly,  and  on  August  lo,  15 19,  under  the 
patronage  of  Charles  I.  of  Spain,  and  with  the  blessing  of 
the  Pope,  he  set  sail  from  San  Lucae  de  Banameda  on  a 
voyage  of  discovery,  with  the  ships,  "La  Trinidad,"  "San 
Antonio,"  "Victoria,"  "Santiago,"  and  "  Concepcion." 

On  December  13,  15  19,  he  arrived  at  Rio  Janeiro,  and 
from  there  followed  the  coast  line  of  South  America  in 
search  of  an  opening  into  the  Pacific  Ocean.  After  many 
hardships,  incident  to  mutinies  amongst  some  of  his  follow- 
ers, the  rigor  of  the  climate,  and  lack  of  fresh  provisions  and 
water,  on  October  28,  1520,  he  beheld  for  the  first  time 
the  open  water  which  connects  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific 
Oceans,  —  the  strait  which  now  bears  his  name,  —  and 
vindicated  the  prognostications  of  Columbus  that  a  water 
route  must  exist  from  Europe  to  the  far  East  by  way  of  the 
west.  On  November  26,  1520,  he  found  himself  on  the 
broad  Pacific,  and  boldly  stood  to  the  northward  and  west- 
ward; and  on  March  16,  1521,  he  reached  the  Ladrone 
Islands,  and  sailed  along  the  north  coast  of  Mindanao. 
During  Easter  week  of  the  same  year  he  arrived  at  the  en- 
trance to  the  Butuano  River,  where  the  first  mass  in  the 
Philippines  was  celebrated.  The  natives  were  curious, 
friendly,  and  hospitable ;  and  to  show  his  appreciation  of 
them,  he  took  formal  possession  of  their  country  in  the 
name  of  his  royal  master,  Charles  I.  The  Butuano  king 
guided  Maghallans'  fleet  to  the  fertile  island  of  Cebu,  where 
they  arrived  on  April  7,  and  built  a  rude  church  in  which 
to  house  their  sacred  vessels  and  celebrate  the  sacraments. 
The  natives  at  Cebu  were  at  war  with  the  people  of  the 
island  of  Magton  ;  and  on  April  25,  1521,  Maghallans  went 
over  to  Magton  to  assist  in  an  attack  upon  them,  when  he 
was  mortally  wounded  by  a  poisoned  arrow.    Thus  perished 


Appendix  473 

the  man  who  had  added  lustre  to  the  Spanish  flag  and  the 
"  Pearls  of  the  Orient  "  to  Spain's  domain. 

In  1570,  Miguel  de  Legaspi  fitted  out  an  expedition  in 
Mexico  and  sailed  for  the  Philippines,  where  he  completed 
the  annexation  of  all  the  islands  to  the  throne  of  Castile. 
While  at  Cebu,  Legaspi  heard  wonderful  stories  of  a  native 
city  further  up  the  coast,  called  Mavnila,  whose  people  did 
a  great  trade  with  the  Chinese.  In  1571,  he  went  up  to 
see  the  wonderful  place  ;  and  as  his  mission  was  to  grab 
everything  valuable,  he  negotiated  with  the  King  ot  Mavnila, 
and  soon  made  the  king  accept  the  protection  of  the  King 
of  Castile.  Legaspi  was  so  pleased  with  the  city  and  its 
surroundings  that  he  declared  Maynila  to  be  the  capital  of 
the  Philippines,  and  Cebu  was  handed  over  to  the  ecclesias- 
tical authority. 

From  time  immemorial  the  Chinese  have  been  coming  to 
Maynila  in  junks  laden  with  silks  and  the  rich  wares  of 
Canton  and  Amoy,  which  they  bartered  to  the  natives  ;  and 
in  later  years,  when  the  government  at  Maynila  became 
more  stable,  the  Chinese  began  to  locate  there  and  inter- 
marry with  the  natives.  They  soon  became  so  numerous 
that  a  portion  of  the  city  was  designated  for  their  residence. 
Several  times  the  Chinese  have  been  in  unsuccessful  rebel- 
lion against  the  Spanish  authority.  The  population  of 
Manila  is  now  about  350,000,  of  which  number  60,000 
are  Chinese  and  10,000  Chinese  half-castes;  and  there  are 
about  40,000  Chinese  and  Chinese  half-castes  in  the  islands 
outside  of  Manila. 

The  Togalog,  Visaya,  Moro,  and  Chinese  languages  and 
some  thirty  dialects  of  them  are  spoken  by  the  people  on 
the  islands,  but  Spanish  is  the  official  language. 

The  Philippine  Islander  is  a  very  matter-of-fact  person  ; 
there  is  very  little  of  the  dreamer  about  him.  He  sleeps  in 
the  middle  of  the  day  in  a  shady  place,  but  is  wide  awake 
and    enterprising    at   all    other   times.      He   is   a  reasoning 


474      ^^^  American   Cruiser  in  the  East 

creature,  who  is  always  asking  the  why  of  everything.  He 
loves  to  be  free,  —  free  as  the  night  breezes  of  his  own 
Philippines;  but  circumstances  make  him  restless  and  a 
wanderer.  He  is  easily  managed  by  honest  treatment.  He 
loves  to  follow  a  brave  leader,  but  despises  a  coward.  He 
is  as  sensitive  as  a  woman,  as  brave  as  a  lion,  and  makes  a 
fine  soldier  or  sailor.  If  he  realizes  that  he  has  done  wrong, 
he  will  make  any  reparation  in  his  power;  but  if  he  feels 
that  he  has  been  wronged,  he  will  follow  his  enemy  to  the 
furthermost  part  of  the  earth  for  his  revenge.  This  accounts 
for  the  wonderfully  brave  fight  he  is  now  making  against 
his  Spanish  foes.  Their  motto  has  been,  "The  end  justi- 
fies the  means  ;  "  and  the  Philippine  Islander  believes  them 
to  have  been  the  authors  of  all  his  woes.  Owing  to  his 
inability  to  comprehend  a  religion  of  love  when  administered 
by  torture  and  by  force,  he  has  become  insincere,  and  it  has 
made  no  further  impression  upon  his  mind  than  that  due  to 
its  outward  observance.  He  promises  all  things,  but  may 
perform  none ;  his  moral  sense  has  been  blunted  by  the 
tyrannical  acts  of  his  masters,  and  a  lie  is  no  sin  to  him.  He 
needs  to  be  grasped  by  the  hand,  and  to  have  whispered  into 
his  ear  the  magic  words,  "  My  brother,"  instead  of  being 
brained  with  a  brazen  crucifix  by  a  "  relic  of  the  Inquisi- 
tion," or  throttled  with  a  Spanish  bayonet.  He  will  make 
a  good,  loyal  subject  or  citizen  under  a  just  and  honest 
government,  which  is  his  ideal  and  hope ;  but  he  is  now 
restless  and   impatient   under  oppression. 

The  Friars  have  been  the  actual  rulers  of  the  Philippines 
since  151 7,  when  they  commenced  to  convert  the  heathens 
of  these  islands.  The  Augustinian,  Dominican,  Franciscan, 
and  Recoleto  Orders  have  always  had  the  civil  and  military 
to  do  their  bidding,  and  there  have  always  been  jealousies 
and  contentions  between  them,  which  have  been  closely 
watched  by  the  natives,  whose  disgust  of  the  foreign  yoke 
has  been  greatly  increased  thereby.     There  have  been  fierce 


Appendix  475 

and  ofttimes  bloody  contests  between  the  Friars  and  the 
governors,  in  which  the  latter  have  almost  always  been  the 
losers.  Any  governor-general  who  displeases  the  monks  is 
recalled.  General  Despujolo  had  to  leave  in  1892,  after 
only  eight  months  of  office,  because  he  did  not  please  the 
priests,  and  General  Blanco  was  recalled  at  their  instigation. 

Foreman  writes  :  — ■ 

"  There  has  been  much  discontent  amongst  the  secular 
native  priests  because  the  monks  insisted  upon  holding  the 
incumbencies,  notwithstanding  the  rules  of  their  own  orders 
and  the  decree  of  the  Council  of  Trent,  which  forbade  it. 
The  Friars  nipped  this  native  ambition  by  instigating  a  revolt 
of  the  troops  at  Cavite  and  charging  the  plot  to  the  native 
priests.  In  1872  four  native  priests  were  publicly  executed 
for  it,  and  it  was  declared  that  native  priests  were  incompe- 
tent to  hold  incumbencies.  Several  of  the  best  families  of 
Manila  were  banished  and  robbed  of  their  property  at  the 
same  time. 

"  There  are  about  six  hundred  and  twenty  parishes  in 
Manila,  of  which  the  Friars  unlawfully  hold  about  ninety- 
five  per  cent.  A  Spanish  parish  priest  is  above  all  civil 
law;  he  cannot  sue  or  be  sued.  He  is  independent  of  all 
state  authority,  and  meddles  in  every  affair  of  the  town- 
ship by  recognized  right ;  if  he  cannot  have  things  go  his 
way,  he  singles  out  his  opponent  for  revenge,  and  always 
obtains  it. 

"  I  remember  meeting  the  expedition  sent  North  from 
Manila  in  1 881,  to  reduce  men  who  have  never  been  brought 
under  subjection.  It  was  a  total  failure,  but  the  general  was 
rewarded  with  the  title  of  '  Conde  de  la  Union,'  and  a  '  Te 
Deum '  was  chanted  in  the  capital  in  thanksgiving  for 
imaginary  victories.  The  theory  which  soothed  the  con- 
sciences of  the  first  military  leaders  was  that  the  soul  must 
either  be  prepared  for  salvation  in  the  living  man,  or  the 
body  must  be  annihilated.      For  generation  after  generation 


476      An   American   Cruiser  in  the  East 

raids  were  repeatedly  made  on  the  natives  for  the  crime  of 
passive  resistance  to  what  they  could  not  comprehend. 
With  the  cry  of  '  Viva  Castilla !  '  bands  of  Spanish  soldiers 
opened  the  way  with  blood  for  the  monks  to  enter  into  the 
breach  and  palliate  the  wound  with  silvery  phrases  to  the 
terror-stricken  converts.  The  cry  of  '  Castilla  '  has  come 
to  represent  everything  that  is  terrible  beyond  all  hope  of 
mercy.  'Castilla'  in  the  north,  and  'Cochila'  in  the  south 
mean  the  same,  and  it  is  common  to  hear  mothers  frighten 
their  children  into  good  behavior  and  quietness  with  the 
dread  word,  '  Castilla.'  " 

From  15 17,  when  Legaspi  took  possession  of  Manila, 
until  1819,  when  Mexico  threw  off  the  Spanish  yoke,  these 
beautiful  islands  were  virtually  dependencies  of  Mexico, 
and  during  all  these  years  there  was  no  direct  communica- 
tion between  them  and  Spain  except  through  Mexico. 

There  has  always  been  a  struggle  between  the  merchants 
of  the  Philippines  and  the  home  country  for  liberty  to  trade 
freely  with  Mexico  and  China,  —  their  natural  markets, — 
but  the  Spanish  king  and  his  advisers  always  restricted  this 
trade  as  much  as  possible,  as  they  were  anxious  to  retain 
the  Mexican  markets  for  the  merchants  of  Spain.  Their 
theory  seemed  to  be  that  Philippine  goods  must  be  paid  for 
in  Mexican  dollars,  which  would  partially  close  the  Mexi- 
can markets  to  the  merchants  of  Spain,  and,  at  the  same 
time,  supply  the  Philippines  with  Mexican  dollars  with 
which  to  purchase  the  rich  silks  and  fabrics  of  China,  for 
their  own  use  and  for  trade  with  Mexico. 

The  arrival  of  a  junk  from  China  or  a  galleon  from 
Mexico  was  an  event  in  the  annals  of  Manila.  The  traders 
would  swarm  about  her  in  their  out-rigger  canoes,  the  news 
would  be  published,  friends  greeted,  strangers  scanned,  the 
wonderful  goods  displaved,  or  the  rough  kegs  of  Mexican 
dollars  would  be  sent  on  shore,  while  the  noise  of  gongs^ 
tom-toms,  and   beating  drums  would   be   deafening   behind 


Appendix  477 

the  eyes  of  the  jiink  ;  or  the  dignified  friar  would  offer  his 
thanks  for  a  safe  arrival  at  the  little  oratory  under  the  ban- 
ner of  his  far-away  Castilla. 

In  1572,  Li  Ma  Han  landed  at  Manila  with  about  two 
thousand  Chinese,  but  he  was  defeated  and  driven  out  by 
the  Spaniards  and  natives,  under  Juan  de  Solcedo.  In  1606 
five  ships  of  the  Netherlands  blockaded  the  islands,  but  they 
were  finally  destroyed  bv  the  Spanish  fleet.  In  1762,  Ma- 
nila was  taken  by  the  British,  but  was  ceded  back  to  Spain 
in  1764  for  a  ransom  of  one  million  pounds  sterling,  which 
was  never  paid. 

The  public  revenue  is  about  fifteen  million  dollars  per 
annum,  of  which  the  larger  part  is  raised  from  direct  taxes, 
customs,  and  monopolies,  and  this  could  easily  be  doubled 
by  a  liberal  system. 

No  matter  what  the  result  of  the  Spanish-American  war 
may  be,  it  would  be  one  of  the  blackest  crimes  of  history 
to  hand  these  native  people  back  to  Spain,  or  to  give  them 
up  to  any  monarchical  government.  They  have  always 
wanted  liberty,  and  have  fought  the  Spaniards  for  it  on 
many  a  hotly  contested  field  since  1522.  All  they  ask  is 
a  chance  for  life,  liberty,  and  the  pursuits  of  happiness,  and 
they  care  not  whether  it  be  a  republic  of  their  own,  or  some 
form  devised  for  them  by  the  great  United  States  of  North 
America. 

When  Dewey  fired  his  first  shell  on  the  first  of  May, 
it  proclaimed  liberty  throughout  these  island  seas  and  bays, 
and  echoed  back  liberty  as  it  struck  down  the  "  Reina 
Cristina  "  and  the  Spanish  fleet,  since  which  time  the 
natives  iiave  been 

"Coming  from  the  hill-tops 
Coming  from  the  plains, 
Shouting  the  battle-cry  of  freedom  " 

These  people  need  steamships  of  from  one  hundred  to 
five  hundred  tons  to  trade  amongst  the  islands  ;  they  need 


478      An   American   Cruiser   in   the   East 

steamships  of  from  three  thousand  to  five  thousand  tons  to 
trade  with  the  United  States  and  other  parts  of  the  world; 
they  need  railways,  locomotives,  and  cars  for  internal  traffic; 
and  they  need  thin  dress-goods,  all  sorts  of  thin  white  goods, 
insertions  and  laces,  black  and  white  prints  of  thin  cotton, 
silk  and  woollen  goods,  thin-woven  and  knit  goods,  fancy 
and  staple  hardware,  tin  ware,  groceries,  canned  goods  and 
flour,  steam-engines,  pumps,  sugar-mills,  agricultural  im- 
plements, furniture,  books  and  stationery,  and  our  public- 
school  system.  They  can  pay  for  these  with  sugar,  tobacco, 
hemp,  camphor,  rice  (which  are  produced  in  great  quanti- 
ties), coal,  gold,  and  many  varieties  of  beautiful  hard  woods. 
Why  should  our  people  not  have  this  trade  ? 


Appendix  III 


NAVAL  BATTLE  OF  CAVITE 

U.  S.  S.  "Baltimore," 
Off  Cavite,  Manila  Bay,  July  lo,  1898. 

A  PAGE  has  been  written  in  Spanish-American  history 
in  Asiatic  waters.  Two  of  the  proudest  nations  on 
earth  have  met  in  conflict,  in  their  terrible  steel  monsters, 
and  the  conclusion  was  short,  sharp,  and  decisive.  The 
Spanish  fleet  was  annihilated,  and  the  starry  banner  floats 
over  the  conquered  bay. 

On  the  25th  of  March,  1898,  the  U.S.S.  "  Baltimore" 
left  Honolulu,  H.  I.,  with  ammunition  for  the  fleet  in  Asiatic 
waters,  and  arrived  at  Yokohama,  Japan,  on  the  lOth  of 
April,  where  she  was  filled  up  with  coal  and  other  stores  ; 
on  the  15th  she  left  Yokohama,  and  arrived  at  Hong-kong, 
China,  on  the  22d,  where  she  was  docked,  cleaned,  and 
painted,  changing  the  white  of  peace  for  the  smoke-color 
of  war.  She  was  filled  up  with  coal,  and  a  beginning  was 
made  to  strip  the  vessel  for  the  horrible  work  that  might  be 
before  her. 

"Our  British  Cousins"  at  Hong-kong  notified  us  to 
leave  their  port,  as  they  objected  to  our  making  anv  prepa- 
rations for  war  in  their  waters,  and  the  following  Proclama- 
tion of  Neutralitv  was  issued  by  the  acting  Governor  of 
the  Colony  :  — 

"  Whereas,  the  Right  Honorable  Joseph  Chamberlain,  Her 
Majesty's  Principal  Secretary  of  State  for  the  Colonies,  has  in- 
formed  the  Government   of  this   Colony  that   war   has   unhappily 


480     An  American   Cruiser  in  the   East 

broken  out  between  the  Kingdom  of  Spain  and  the  United  States  of 
America,  and  has  communicated  Her  Majesty's  commands  that  all 
of  her  subjects  shall  observe  a  strict  neutrality  in  and  during  the 
said  war,  and  shall  abstain  from  violating  or  contravening  either  the 
laws  and  statutes  of  the  realm  in  their  behalf,  or  the  laws  of  nations 
in  relation  thereto,  as  they  will  answer  to  the  contrary  at  their 
peril." 

Then  follow  extracts  from  the  Act,  which  passed  in  the 
thirty-third  and  thirty-fourth  year  of  Her  Majesty's  reign, 
and  is  intituled  "An  Act  to  regulate  the  conduct  of  Her 
Majesty's  subjects  during  the  existence  of  hostilities  between 
foreign  states  with  which  Her  Majesty  is  at  peace,"  the 
subjects  dealt  with  being  illegal  enlistments,  illegal  ship- 
building, and   illegal  expeditions. 

On  the  25th  of  April  the  fleet  moved  out  to  Mir's  Bay 
(which  is  on  the  Chinese  coast,  a  short  distance  from  Hong- 
kong), where  it  anchored  the  same  afternoon.  On  the 
afternoon  of  the  27th,  Mr.  Williams,  the  U.  S.  Consul 
to  Manila,  who  had  left  Manila  a  few  days  before  and 
had  taken  refuge  in  Hong-kong,  took  up  quarters  on  the 
U.  S.  S.  "  Baltimore,"  and  brought  us  a  copy  of  the  procla- 
mation of  the  Governor-General  of  the  Philippines.  This 
is  extremely  interesting  in  view  of  later  events,  and  reads 
as  follows  :  — 

Extraordinary  Proclamation 
OF  THE  Governor-General  of  the  Philippine  Islands 
Spaniards  : 

Between  Spain  and  the  United  States  of  North  America  hostili- 
ties have  broken   out. 

The  moment  has  arrived  to  prove  to  the  world  that  we  possess 
the  spirit  to  conquer  those  who,  pretending  to  be  loyal  friends,  take 
advantage  of  our  misfortunes  and  abuse  our  hospitality,  using  means 
which  civilized  nations  count  unworthy  and  disreputable. 

The  North  American  people,  constituted  of  all  the  social 
excrescences,     have     exhausted    our    patience    and   provoked    war 


Appendix  483 


with  their  perfidious  machinations,  with  their  acts  of  treacherv, 
with  their  outrages  against  the  law  of  nations  and  international 
conventions. 

The  struggle  will  be  short  and  decisive.  The  God  of  victories 
will  give  us  one  as  brilliant  and  complete  as  the  righteousness 
of  our  cause  demands.  Spain,  which  counts  upon  the  sympathies 
of  all  the  nations,  will  emerge  triumphantly  from  this  new  test, 
humiliating  and  blasting  the  adventurers  from  those  states  that, 
without  cohesion  and  without  a  history,  offer  to  humanity  only 
infamous  traditions  and  the  ungrateful  spectacle  of  Chambers  in 
which  appear  united  insolence  and  defamation,  cowardice  and 
cynicism. 

A  squadron  manned  by  foreigners,  possessing  neither  instruction 
nor  discipline,  is  preparing  to  come  to  this  archipelago  with  the 
ruffianly  intention  of  robbing  us  of  all  that  means  life,  honor,  and 
liberty.  Pretending  to  be  inspired  by  a  courage  of  which  thev  are 
incapable,  the  North  American  seamen  undertake  as  an  enterprise 
capable  of  realization  the  substitution  of  Protestantism  for  the 
Catholic  religion  you  profess,  to  treat  you  as  tribes  refractory  to 
civilization,  to  take  possession  of  your  riches  as  if  they  were  un- 
acquainted with  the  rights  of  property,  and  to  kidnap  those  per- 
sons whom  they  consider  useful  to  man  their  ships,  or  to  be 
exploited  in   agriculture  or  industrial   labor. 

Vain  designs  !  Ridiculous  boastings  !  Your  indomitable  bravery 
will  suffice  to  frustrate  the  attempt  to  carry  them  into  realization. 
You  will  not  allow  the  faith  you  profess  to  be  made  a  mock  of, 
impious  hands  to  be  placed  on  the  temple  of  the  true  God,  the 
images  you  adore  to  be  thrown  down  by  unbelief.  The  aggressors 
shall  not  profane  the  tombs  of  your  fathers  ;  they  shall  not  gratify 
their  lustful  passions  at  the  cost  of  your  wives'  and  daughters' 
honor,  or  appropriate  the  property  your  industry  has  accumulated 
as  a  provision  for  your  old  age. 

No  !  they  shall  not  perpetrate  any  of  the  crimes  inspired  by 
their  wickedness  and  covetousness,  because  vour  valor  and  patriot- 
ism will  suffice  to  punish  and  abase  the  people  that,  professing  to 
be  civilized  and  cultivated,  have  exterminated  the  natives  of  North 
America  instead  of  bringing  to  them  the  life  of  civilization  and 
progress. 


484      An   American    Cruiser  in   the   East 

Philipinos  !  prepare  for  the  struggle,  and,  united  under  the 
glorious  Spanish  flag,  which  is  ever  covered  with  laurels,  let  us  fight 
with  the  conviction  that  victory  will  crown  our  efforts,  and  to  the 
calls  of  our  enemies  let  us  oppose,  with  the  decision  of  the  Christian 
and  patriot,  the  cry  '*  Viva  Espafia  !  " 

Your  General, 
(Signed)  Basalio   Agustin  Davilla. 

Manila,  April  23,  1898. 

At  2.15  P.M.,  on  April  27,  the  fleet  was  formed  in  line 
in  the  following  order, —  flagship  "  Olympia,"  "  Baltimore," 
"Raleigh,"  "Petrel,"  "Concord,"  and  "Boston,"  with 
the  revenue  steamer  "  McCulloch  "  and  the  transports 
"  Nanshan  "  and  "  Zafiro  "  on  the  oft'  side  of  the  war  ves- 
sels,—  and  started  for  the  entrance  to  Manila  Bay.  Soon 
alter  dark  the  commanding  officers  were  called  to  the  flag- 
ship, and  when  they  returned  the  following  telegram  was 
published  :  — 

Dewey,  —  Hostilities  have  commenced  ;  begin  operations  in 
the  Philippines  ;   capture  or  destroy  the  Spanish  fleet.  — Long. 

On  the  afternoon  of  April  30,  the  "  Baltimore  "  fired  the 
first  gun  of  the  war  in  the  Eastern  hemisphere.  The  "Con- 
cord "  and  the  "  Boston  "  were  making  a  reconnoissance 
in  Subig  Bay  under  the  protection  of  the  "  Baltimore," 
when  a  schooner  flying  the  Spanish  flag  was  made  out  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  entrance  to  the  bay.  The  "  Bal- 
timore "  fired  a  shot  across  the  schooner's  bow  from  one 
of  her  small  guns,  when  the  astonished  skipper  hauled  down 
his  sails  and  hove  to.  A  boarding  party  from  the  "  Balti- 
more "  brought  the  skipper  and  four  of  his  men  on  board, 
where  they  were  examined  and  permitted  to  leave,  as  they 
did  not  even  know  that  a  state  of  war  was  existing  between 
Spain    and   the    United   States.      When    the    three    vessels 


w^ 


\^i- 


Appendix  485 

rejoined  the  fleet,  about  dark,  the  commanding  officers 
reported  on  board  the  flagship,  and  when  they  returned, 
the  ships'  companies  were  informed  that  the  forts  at  the 
entrance  to  Manila  Bay  were  to  be  passed  that  nis^ht. 

The  fleet  steamed  along  slowly,  under  a  beautiful 
moonlight  that  was  now  bright,  or  now  hidden  bv  fleecy 
clouds;  and  at  10.30  "Battle  Stations  "  was  sounded  for 
action,  when  officers  and  men  jumped  to  their  places  as  the 
Star-Spangled  Banner  was  set  at  each  mast-head  and  on 
each  side  of  the  after  rigging.  Soon  we  were  to  the  south 
of  Corregidor,  the  Gibraltar  of  the  Philippines,  and  after 
the  flagship  "  Olympia,"  the  "Baltimore,"  and  the  "  Ra- 
leigh "  were  well  headed  up  the  channel,  the  batteries  of 
Restinga,  or  Fraile,  and  on  Corregidor  opened  their  fire 
upon  us.  The  moon  had  sunk  low,  but  was  yet  above  the 
horizon.  Hissing  shells  chased  each  other  over  us,  or  tell 
short,  as  we  steamed  slowly  on,  and  only  returned  the  fire 
when  we  thought  we  could  locate  a  flash,  as  we  were  re- 
serving our  ammunition  for  bigo-er  game  in  the  morning. 
In  about  two  hours  the  entire  fleet  had  slowly  passed  the 
batteries,  had  passed  over  the  torpedoes  and  the  mines  un- 
harmed, and  was  heading  for  Cavite,  the  Spanish  naval 
station,  which  is  about  twelve  miles  below  Manila.  By 
the  time  we  were  well  inside  of  the  bav,  the  moon  had  set, 
and  we  were  in  darkness,  only  relieved  by  the  twinkling 
stars  which  showed  us  the  way  as  we  timed  our  speed  so 
as  to  reach  Cavite  at  early  dawn. 

The  scenes  on  board  the  "  Baltimore  "  were  no\'el  and 
strange,  even  to  a  sailor's  eye.  The  bulkheads  had  been 
torn  awav  from  the  officers'  quarters  and  given  into  old 
Neptune's  keeping,  and  temporary  hangings  and  curtains 
were  improvised  to  screen  the  inmates  from  public  gaze. 
Men  of  the  gun's  crews  watched  by  turns,  and  slept  about 
the  decks,  belted  and  readv;  the  men  of  the  powder  division 
slept,  spoon  fashion,  upon  the  hard  deck  of  the  ward-room  ; 


486      An   American   Cruiser   in   the   East 

and  some  were  in  uniform,  but  many  were  begrimed  and 
stripped  to  the  waist  tor  the  past  and  the  coming  tray. 

Below,  in  the  depths  of  the  vessel,  the  tiremen  toiled  be- 
fore the  great  boiler  tires,  where  intense  heat  and  weird  flames 
gave  the  place  the  appearance  of  a  hell,  and  they  looked 
like  begrimed  imps  of  very  darkness,  dancing  and  panto- 
miming, as  they  worked  their  tires,  or  threw  on  more  fuel; 
and  the  engineers  and  machinists  watched  and  handled  the 
great  engines  of  the  smoke-colored  monster  that  was  carry- 
ing horrible  war  up  the  peaceful  bay  on  this  beautiful  tirst 
Mav  morn. 

At  5.05  in  the  morning,  which  was  calm,  clear,  and  as 
beautiful  as  any  that  has  ever  smiled  upon  the  Philippines, 
the  flagship  made  signal  :  "  Prepare  for  general  action." 
The  "  Baltimore  "  had  been  ready  all  night,  and  the  men 
and  otEcers  jumped  to  their  guns  and  stations,  the  click  ot 
the  breach-plug  could  be  heard  as  others  manned  the  am- 
munition hoists,  while  a  few  poor  firemen  who  had  been 
let  out  of  their  hot  holes  to  get   a  few  lifegiving  breaths  of 

O  CO 

the  fresh  morning  air,  rushed  down  to  their  infernal-like 
compartments  about  their  tires,  and  the  marines  mustered 
about  the  after  eight-inch  guns,  all  ready  for  the  tray. 
Our  vessels  steamed  very  slowly,  in  the  same  order  in 
which  they  had  passed  the  forts  at  Corregidor,  except 
that  the  '•'■  McCuUoch  "  lay  off  in  the  bay  with  the  two 
transports. 

At  5.15  a  challenge  shot  was  tired  at  the  head  of  our 
column  by  one  of  the  batteries  on  Point  Cavite,  which  was 
immediately  followed  by  the  Spanish  vessels  "  Castilla " 
and  "  Don  Antonio  de  Ulloa  "  using  their  port  batteries,  as 
they  were  moored  bow  and  stern  off  Point  Cavite.  The 
flagship  "  Reina  Cristina,"  a  protected  cruiser  with  a 
main  battery  of  six  5.2  inch  guns,  the  cruisers  '•'•  Isla  de 
Cuba,"  "Isla  de  Luzon,"  and  the  "  Don  Juan  de  Austria," 
and   the  gunboat  "  Isla  de  Mindanao,"  were   under  steam, 


Spanish  Flag-ship  and  Castilla  in  Foreground.  United  States 
Fleet  in  Background.  British  Merchant  Vessel  in  Middle- 
ground.     Manila  Harbor,  8  a.  m.,  May  i,  1898. 


Effect  of  c-inch  Shell  ix   Malite  Fort. 


Appendix  487 

and  occasionally  retired  behind  Point  Cavite, —  no  doubt 
trying  to  lead  us  in  over  their  torpedoes,  which  were  be- 
lieved to  be  planted  in  the  entrance  and  bay.  The  gunboats 
*' General  Lezo,"  '^Marques  del  Duero,"  "El  Correo," 
and  another  one  were  inside  the  basin  behind  Point  Cavite, 
from  whence  they  could  fire  upon  us  without  our  being 
able  to   see  just  where  they  were. 

Our  vessels  steamed  in  column  up  past  the  forts  and 
fleet,  turning  and  passing  down  again,  making  five  long 
loops  during  the  first  engagement,  our  range  varying  from 
five  thousand  to  twenty-five  hundred  yards,  which  could  not 
be  shortened  on  account  of  the  shallow  water. 

Early  in  the  fight,  a  torpedo  boat  was  gallantly  dashed 
out  from  Point  Cavite  at  high  speed,  evidently  intending  to 
torpedo  the  flagship  or  the  "  Baltimore;"  but  the  secondary 
batteries  of  those  vessels  were  handled  with  such  precision, 
skill,  and  rapidity  that  the  boat  was  hastily  turned  and 
headed  for  the  shore,  when  a  well-directed  eight-inch  shell 
from  the  "Baltimore  "  soon  finished  her.  Still  the  cruel 
work  went  on,  each  vessel  of  each  fleet  taking  every  advan- 
tage possible  to  destroy  its  adversary.  During  the  entire 
engagement  there  was  no  breeze,  and  the  dense  black  smoke 
from  the  funnels  hung  like  a  pall  about  the  slow-moving 
vessels,  and  for  more  than  two  mortal  hours  the  carnage 
reigned.  Shot  and  shell  flew  through  the  air  from  the  ves- 
sels of  both  fleets  and  the  shore  batteries ;  huge  tongues  of 
black-red  flame  licked  into  the  dense  smoke,  and  the  quick, 
sharp  crack  of  the  rifle,  the  thunder  roar  of  the  enemy's 
guns,  the  hissing  of  flying  shells,  the  prayers,  the  moans, 
and  the  curses  of  the  wounded  and  the  dying,  and  the  lusty 
cheers  for  a  successful  shot,  all  mingled  and  went  up  with 
the  great  smoke-crowned  columns  of  flame,  as  vessel  after 
vessel  was  fired,  and  finally  exploded  and  sank,  making  a 
scene  of  wreck  and  death  that  could  only  be  produced  by 
cruel  war. 


488      An   American   Cruiser  in   the   East 

At  7.35  the  signal  was  made  by  our  flagship:  "With- 
draw from  action." 

The  Spanish  flagship  "  Reina  Cristina,"  Admiral  Mon- 
tojo  commanding  the  station,  was  set  on  hre  early  in  the 
action,  but  continued  steaming  and  fighting  until  we  with- 
drew, when  she  burst  into  flames  all  over  and  soon  blew 
up.  The  Spanish  admiral  was  slightly  wounded,  and  her 
commander  and  136  others  were  killed.  One  of  our 
officers,  who  watched  an  eight-inch  shell  enter  her  side  and 
explode,  says,  "  It  looked  like  a  barrel  of  hell-fire  going 
into  her."  One  other  vessel  was  set  on  fire  during  the 
interval  between  actions,  and  three  of  the  Spanish  gun- 
boats withdrew  behind  Cavite  Point,  and  kept  up  their  fire 
from  under  its  cover. 

During  the  first  action  our  fire  was  wholly  directed  at 
the  enemy's  ships,  and  their  forts  were  ignored. 

At  10.40  the  signal  was  made  to  "  Form  column  on  the 
flagship."  At  this  time  the  "Baltimore"  was  steaming 
full  speed  after  a  suspicious  vessel  sighted  in  the  bay. 
Then  the  signal  was  made  to  form  column  on  the  "Balti- 
more." The  "  Baltimore  "  signalled  :  "  Strange  vessel  is 
flying  the  British  flag."  "Olympia"  then  made  signal: 
"  Destroy  enemy's  fortifications  and  batteries."  The  "  Bal- 
timore "  alone  steamed  up  to  within  twenty-five  hundred 
yards  of  the  forts,  and  for  about  thirty  minutes  poured  in 
broadsides  with  wonderful  precision  and  terrible  execution, 
making  her  bow  and  stern  almost  dance,  to  the  extent  that 
our  engineers  thought  perhaps  she  was  amongst  torpedoes. 
Later,  the  other  vessels  of  the  fleet  came  up  and  co- 
operated  in  the  destruction  of  the   forts. 

The  little  "Petrel,"  followed  by  the  "  Boston  "  and  the 
"Concord,"  and  later  by  the  remainder  of  the  fleet,  steamed 
past  Point  Cavite,  and  in  toward  shore,  destroying  shipping 
and  the  remaining  guns  in  the  fort.      When  this  was  done 


'»*'^Er^3^" 


Spanish  Flag-ship  "  Reina  Christima,"  May  i,  1S98, 


IsLA  DE  Luzon,"  May  i,  iJ 


Appendix  489 

she  was  sent  inside  to  follow  the  enemy  up,  soon  after 
which   the  enemy  hoisted   the  white   flag. 

The  "  Concord  "  started  after  a  large  Spanish  transport, 
the  "  Isla  de  Mindanao,"  which  was  supposed  to  have  mu- 
nitions of  war,  and  which  had  been  tiring  upon  us  during 
the  morning.  The  "Concord"  sent  a  shot  across  her  bow, 
which  was  unheeded  ;  then  she  sent  a  six-inch  shell  into 
her,  setting  her  on  fire.  The  transport  still  endeavored  to 
escape,  but  the  "  Olvmpia  "  headed  her  ofi^",  and  sent  an 
eight-inch  shell  through  her,  when  she  burst  into  flames 
and  was  run  aground,  where  she  soon  blew  up  The  saucy 
little  "  Petrel  "  went  in  amongst  eight  vessels  and  brought 
off  five  torpedo  boats  in  tow. 

On  the  afternoon  of  Mav  2,  the  "  Raleigh  "  and  the 
*'  Baltimore "  went  down  to  Corregidor  and  demanded 
the  surrender  of  the  forts.  The  commandant  was  a  little 
obstinate ;  but  when  informed  that  his  forts  were  to  be 
destroyed  whether  he  surrendered  or  not,  and  that  "the 
demand  to  surrender  was  in  the  interest  of  humanitv  and 
to  save  bloodshed,"  he  made  an  unconditional  surrender, 
and  his  three  hundred  and  eighty  officers  and  men  were 
paroled  ;  whereupon  the  "  Raleigh  "  and  the  "  Baltimore  " 
returned   to  the   fleet. 

Corregidor,  Ca\  ite,  with  its  vast  shops  and  stores,  and 
the  bay  are  ours  in  two  days;  and  we  ha\'e  a  home  in  the 
far  East  if  we  choose  to  hold  it.  Manila  means  the  Philip- 
pines, but  we  must  await  the  arrival  of  troops  to  hold  it. 

The  Spanish  made  a  splendid  fight  for  their  country  and 
their  king.  They  poured  out  their  blood  like  water,  and 
freely  gave  their  lives  to  their  duty.  More  than  one  half 
of  the  men  engaged  were  either  killed  or  wounded.  Their 
greatest  loss  was  in  their  engine  departments,  where  in 
some  cases  the  entire  force  went  down  with  the  ship. 
Yankee  pluck  and  Western  daring  were  too  much  for  their 
3rave  foes.      Not  one   of  the   Spanish  ships  hauled  down 


490      An   American   Cruiser  in   the   East 

their  colors,  every  one  of  them  being  either  sunk  or  aban- 
doned with  colors  flying.  The  Spanish  loss  was  480  killed 
and  520  wounded,  while  the  American  loss  was  but  eight 
slightly   wounded,   all   of  the  "  Baltimore," 

The  Spanish  fortifications  were  as  follows  :  — 

Forts  and  Batteries  at  the  Entrance  to  Alan i la  Bay. 
Punta  Gorda  Battery.  ' 

Lasisi  Point  Battery. 
Corregidor  Forts  and  Batteries. 
Pulo  Caballo  Island  Battery. 
El  Fraile  Rock  Battery. 
Restinga  Point  Battery. 

Forts  at  Cavite. 

Canocao  Battery. 
Sangley  Point  Battery. 

Forts  at  Manila. 

Luna  Fort,  —  ten-inch  Krupp  (juns. 
Walls  of  the  old  city,  twelve  feet  thick,  and  strengthened 
with  three  thicknesses  of  bags  of  sand  laid  lengthwise. 
The  lio;hthouse  fort  at  the  mouth  of  the  Pasig  River. 

Spanish  Vessels  at  Cavite.,  May  /,  i8g8. 
Admiral  Montojo. 

Guns.  Commander. 

Reina  Cristina  (flagship),  21  L,  Cardosa.          (Burned.) 

Castilla,  22  A.  M.  de  Oliva.     (Sunk.) 

Don  Antonio  de  Ulloa,  13  E.  Robion.                (Sunk.) 

Isla  de  Cuba,  10  J.  Sidrach.                (Sunk.) 

Isla  de  Luzon,  10  J.  L.  Human.          (Sunk.) 

Don  Juan  de  Austria,  13  J.  de  la  Concha.  (Burned.) 

El  Correo,  7  F.  Escudera.        (Burned.) 


"Castilla,  '  May  i,  1S9S. 


"San  Axtomo  de  Ulloa,"  May  i,  1S98. 


Appendix 


491 


General  Lezo, 

Marques  del  Duero, 

Villa  Lobas, 

Unknown  Gunboat, 

Manila  (^transport), 

General  Alova, 

Rapido, 

Hercules, 

Ilo  Ilo, 

Isla  de  Mindanao  (armed  transport), 


uns.  Commander. 

6    F.  Benovento 


(Burned.) 
5  S.  M.  Guerra.  (Burned.) 
4    J.  M.  Estanga.    (Burned.) 

(Burned.) 


2    J.  Ozamiz. 


(Captured. 
(Captured.) 
(Captured.) 
(Captured.) 
(Captured.) 
(Burned.) 


United  States  Vessels  at  Cavite^  May  /,  iSgS. 
Commodore  George  Dewey,  U.  S.  N,,  Commanding. 


Guns. 

Commander. 

Olvmpia  (fl; 

ags 

;hip), 

14 

C.  V.  Gridley. 

Baltimore, 

10 

N.  M.  Dyer. 

Raleigh, 

I  I 

J.  B.  Coghlan. 

Boston, 

8 

Frank  Wildes. 

Concord, 

6 

Asa  Walker. 

Petrel, 

4 

E.  P.  Wood. 

On  the  20th  of  May,  Aguinaldo,  the  native  insurgent 
leader,  with  members  of  his  staff,  arrived  at  Cavite,  and 
immediately  began  to  assemble  his  followers  ;  since  which 
time  these  brave  people  have  captured  nearly  all  the  Spanish 
strongholds  in  the  province  of  Cavite,  taken  thousands  of 
prisoners,  and  armed  themselves  by  their  captures.  They 
have  worked  their  way  to  the  outposts  of  Manila  and 
control  all  the  country  about  it. 

On  the  30th  of  June,  U.  S.  transports,  convoyed  by  the 
U.  S.  cruisers  "  Charleston  "  and  "Baltimore,"  arrived  in 
the  bay  with  the  first  instalment  of  U.  S.  soldiers  for  the 
occupation  of  Manila  and  the  Philippines.  They  were 
composed  of  a  battalion  of  the  Fourteenth  Regular  Infantry, 


492      An   American    Cruiser   in   the   East 

the  Third  Oregon  Infantry,  the  First  California  Infantry, 
and  a  detachment  of  California  Heavy  Artillery,  all  under 
the  command  of  Brigadier-General  Anderson,  U.  S.  Army. 
The  troops  were  speedily  landed  at  the  Cavite  Arsenal, 
and  quartered  in  the  Spanish  barracks  just  outside  of  the 
Arsenal. 

Aguinaldo's  native  forces  moved  into  old  Cavite,  the 
adjoining  towns,  and  closer  to  Manila,  to  make  room  for 
our  troops,  who  soon  fraternized  with  their  native  aux- 
iliaries. The  natives  regard  our  people  as  their  liberators 
from  Spanish  cruelty  and  oppression,  and  do  everything  in 
their  power  to  help  on  the  good  cause. 

The  following  Spanish  account  of  the  naval  battle  of 
Cavite,  taken  from  the  "  Diario  de  Manila"  of  May  4, 
1898,  is   interesting  :  — 

A  Naval  Surprise 
When  the  enemv's  squadron  was  sighted  in  perfect  line 
of  battle  through  the  clouds  of  a  misty  dawn  on  the  morn- 
ing of  the  first  of  May,  gloom  and  surprise  were  general 
among  the  people  of  Manila.  At  last  these  ships  had 
strained  their  boldness  to  the  point  of  appearing  on  our 
coast  and  defying  our  batteries,  which  showed  more  courage 
and  valor  than  effect  when  they  opened  fire  on  the  squadron. 
It  needs  something  more  than  courage  to  make  projectiles 
penetrate  —  indeed,  it  does! 

Every  Man  to  his  Station 
The   inequality   of  our    batteries  when    compared    with 
those    of  the   squadron    which   alarmed    the   inhabitants  of 
Manila  at  five  in  the  morning  was  enough  to  transform  the 
tranquil  character  of  our  tropical  temperaments. 

While  ladies  and  children  in  carriages  or  on  foot  fled  in 
fright   to  seek  refuge  in  the  outlying  suburbs  and  adjacent 


Appendix  493 

villages  around  the  capital,  from  danger  multiplied  h\  their 
imagination,  every  man,  from  the  stately  personage  to  the 
most  humble  workman,  merchants  and  mechanics,  Span- 
iards and  natives,  soldiers  and  civilians,  —  all,  we  repeat, 
sought  their  stations  and  put  on  their  arms,  confident  that 
never  should  the  enemy  land  in  Manila  unless  he  passed 
over  their  corpses.  Yet  from  the  first  moment  the  strength 
of  the  enemy's  armor  and  the  power  of  his  guns  demon- 
strated that  his  ships  were  invulnerable  to  our  energies  and 
armaments;  the  hostile  squadron  would  never  have  entered 
our  bay  had  not  its  surety  been  guaranteed  by  its  manifest 
superiority. 

Spectators  and  Observers 

The  city  walls,  the  church  towers,  the  roofs  of  high 
buildings,  and  all  high  places  convenient  for  observation 
were  occupied  by  those  who  were  not  retained  by  their 
military  duties  within  the  walls,  on  the  bridges,  or  at  the 
advanced  posts.  The  slightest  details  of  the  enemy's  ships 
were  eagerly  noted  as  they  advanced  towards  Cavite  in  a 
line  parallel  with  the  beaches  of  Manila,  as  though  they 
had  just  come  out  of  the  Pasig  River.  There  were  no 
gaps  in  the  line,  but  the  curious  public  hardly  realized  the 
disparity  between  their  great  guns  and  the  pieces  mounted 
on  our  fortifications.  Some  had  glasses  and  others  were 
without,  but  all  seemed  to  devour  with  their  eyes  these 
strangers  who,  while  brave,  were  not  called  upon  to  show 
their  courage,  since  the  range  of  their  guns  and  the  weak- 
ness of  our  batteries  enabled  them  to  preserve  their  impu- 
nity, while  doing  as  much  harm  as  they  pleased. 

Remarks  of  the  People 

All  who  appreciated  the  impunity  with  which  the  hostile 

jhips  manoeuvred,  as  if  on  a  harmless  parade,  were  full   ot 

such    rage    and    desperation    as    belongs   to   the   brave  man 

who  can  make  no  use  of  his  courage  ;   to  whom  remains  no 


494      ^^^   American   Cruiser  in   the   East 

remedy  except  an  honorable  death  rather  than  a  cowardly 
inactivity. 

A  soldier  of  the  First  Battalion  of  Cazadores  gazed  at 
the  squadron  sweeping  over  the  waters  out  of  reach  of  the 
fire  of  our  batteries,  looked  out  and  at  the  ships,  then  toward 
heaven,  saying,  "  If  Holy  Mary  would  turn  that  sea  into 
land,  the  Yankees  would  find  out  how  we  can  charge  in 
double  time."  And  a  crouching  native  staring  out  at  the 
ships  said,  "  Just  let  them  come  ashore  and  give  us  a  whack 
at  them." 

On  they  stood  at  full  speed  in  column  of  battle,  heading 
for  Cavite  with  the  decision  due  to  a  sense  of  safety  and  a 
firm  assurance  of  success. 

The   Fight  seen  from   Manila 
For  more  than  an  hour  and  a  half  the  bombardment  held 
in  suspense  those  whose  souls  followed  the  unequal  struggle, 
in  which   the  Spanish  ships  went  down  with  their  glorious 
banners  flying. 

What  was  going  on  in  the  waters  of  Cavite  ?  From 
Manila  we  saw,  through  glasses,  the  two  squadrons  almost 
mingled  together  in  the  clouds  of  smoke.  This  was  not 
far  from  a  triumph  for  our  side,  considering  the  weakness 
of  our  batteries.  For  once  alongside  the  enemy,  the  cry 
of  "Boarders  Away!"  and  the  flash  of  cold  steel  might 
have  enabled  our  devoted  seamen  to  disturb  the  calm  in 
which  watches  and  instruments  were  regulated  and  direct- 
ing those  engines  of  destruction.  In  the  blindness  of  our 
rage  how  should  we  paint  the  heroic  deeds,  the  prowess, 
the  waves  of  valor  which  burst  forth  from  our  men-of-war? 
Those  who  fought  beneath  the  Spanish  flag  bore  themsehes 
like  men,  as  chosen  sons  of  our  native  land,  who  ne\'er 
measure  forces,  nor  yield  to  superior  force  in  the  hands  of 
an  enemy;  who  would  rather  die  without  ships  than  live  in 
ships  which  have  surrendered. 


Appendix  495 

To  name  those  who  distinguished  themselves  in  battle 
would  require  the  publication  of  the  entire  muster-rolls  of 
our  ships,  from  captain  to  cabin-boy.  To  these  victorious 
seamen  of  ours  we  offer  congratulations  ;  laurels  for  the 
living  5   prayers  for  the  dead;   for  all,  our  deepest  gratitude. 

Since  we  cannot  reconstruct  the  bloodv  scene  which  was 
exhibited  last  Sunday  in  the  waters  of  Cavite,  we  will  not 
attempt  a  description,  which  would  only  be  a  pale  shadow 
of  great  deeds  deserving  a  perpetual  place  in  the  pages  of 
history. 

When  the  hostile  squadron  turned  toward  Cavite,  the 
crew  of  the  steamer  "  Isla  de  Mindanao  "  heard  the  drums 
beating  to  quarters,  and  answered  with  enthusiasm,  three 
rounds  of  cheers  for  the  King,  for  the  Queen,  and  for  Spain, 
which  echoed  along  our  line. 

Later,  until  a  quarter  to  five,  absolute  silence  reigned.. 
Everything  was  readv.  The  idea  of  death  was  lost  in 
ardor  for  the  fray,  and  every  eye  was  fixed  on  the  battle- 
flags  waving  at  our  mastheads.  In  perfect  and  majestic 
order  —  whv  should  we  deny  this?  —  the  nine  Yankee 
ships  advanced  in  battle-array.  The  "  Olympia,"  bearing 
the  admiral's  flag,  led  the  column,  followed  by  the  other 
ships,  steering  at  full  speed  towards  Cavite.  The  "  Olym- 
pia" opened  fire,  and  an  instant  reply  came  from  the  battery 
on  the  mole,  which  kept  on  firing  at  five-minute  inter- 
vals, while  the  iron-clad  shaped  her  course  for  the  "  Reina 
Cristina "  and  "  Castilla."  Into  both  these  ships  she 
poured  a  steady  and  rapid  fire,  seconded  by  the  ships  which 
followed  in  her  wake.  Another  ship  which  directed  a 
heavy  fire  on  our  line  was  the  "  Baltimore  ;  "  and  so  the 
cannonade  went  on  until  a  quarter  to  eight.  At  that  moment 
the  "  Don  Juan  de  Austria  "  advanced  against  the  enemy, 
intending  to  board  the  "  Olvmpia,"  and  if  a  tremendous 
broadside  had  not  stopped  her  self-devoted  charge,  both, 
ships   would   perhaps  ha\'e   sunk   to  the  bottom. 


496      An   American   Cruiser  in   the   East 

The  captain  of  the  "  Reina  Cristina,"  seeing  that  the 
resolute  attempt  of  his  consort  had  failed,  advanced  at  full 
speed  until  within  two  hundred  yards  of  the  "  Olympia," 
aiming  to  attack  her.  Then  a  shower  of  projectiles  swept 
the  bridge  and  decks,  filling  the  ship  with  dead  and  wounded. 

Heroes  and  martyrs  whom  the  nation  will  remember  as 
long  as  it  endures  ! 

A  dense  column  of  smoke  from  the  bow-compartment 
showed  that  an  incendiary  projectile,  such  as  the  law  of 
God  and  man  prohibits,  had  set  fire  to  the  cruiser.  The 
ship,  still  keeping  up  her  fire  on  the  enemy,  withdrew  toward 
the  arsenal,  where  she  was  sunk  to  keep  her  from  falling 
into  the  hands  of  the  Yankees. 

The  desperation  of  the  men  of  the  "  Reina  Cristina  " 
was  aggravated  by  the  sight  of  the  "  Castilla  "  also  in  a 
blaze,  from  a  similar  use  of  incendiary  projectiles. 

The  principal  ships  of  our  little  squadron  having  thus 
been  put  out  of  action,  the  Yankee  vessels,  some  of  them 
badly  crippled  by  the  fire  of  our  ships,  and  the  batteries  at 
Point  Sangley,  stood  out  toward  Mariveles  and  the  entrance 
of  the  bay,  ceasing  their  fire  and  occupying  themselves  in 
repairing  injuries  until  ten  o'clock,  v/hen  they  began  a 
second   attack  to  complete  their   work  of  destruction. 

In  this  second  assault  the  fire  at  the  arsenal  was  ex- 
tinguished, and  they  continued  to  cannonade  the  blazing 
gunboats. 

One  gunboat,  which  seemed  to  have  nothing  more 
venturesome  to  undertake,  detached  herself  from  the 
squadron  and  set  to  work  to  riddle  the  mail  steamer 
^'  Isla  de  Mindanao." 

Now  that  the  ships  were  in  flames,  the  admiral,  Senor 
Montojo,  who  had  shown  his  flag  as  long  as  there  was  a 
vessel  afloat,  landed,  and  hostilities  ceased. 

The  only  Spanish  ship  which  had  not  been  destroyed  by 


Corner  of  Old  City  Wall,  Manila  (Bay  Side). 


Old  City  Wall,  Manila  (Land  Side). 


Appendix  497 

fire  or  by  the  enemy's  projectiles,  sunk  herself  so  that  she 
could  in  no  wise  be  taken. 

Such,  in  broad  outlines,  which  we  cannot  correct  at  this 
moment,  was  the  naval  battle  of  Cavite,  in  which  the  last 
glimpse  of  our  squadron  showed  the  Spanish  flag. 

A  thousand  sensational  details  have  reached  us,  which 
we  would  reproduce  gladly,  after  the  necessary  corrections, 
if  our  pen  would  serve  for  anything  except  to  sing  the 
glory  of  these   martyrs  of  the  nation. 

Perhaps  to-morrow  or  another  day,  with  fuller  knowledge 
of  the  facts,  we  can  furnish  our  readers  with  many  inter- 
esting details.  To-day  we  limit  ourselves  to  a  sketch  of 
the  grand  picture  which  was  unrolled  before  us  on  the  first 
of  May,  begging  our  friends  to  excuse  the  defects  which 
they  may   note. 

The  Killed  and  Wounded 
Killed :   The  Captain,   Chaplain,  Clerk,  and    Boatswain   of 

the  "  Reina  Cristina." 
JVounded :   The  Captains  of  the    "  Castilla  "    and     "Don 
Antonio  de  UUoa." 
The  Executive  Officer  of  the  "Reina  Cristina." 
A  Lieutenant  of  the  "  Don  Juan  de  Austria." 
The  Paymaster  of  the  "  Ulloa,"  the  second  Sur- 
geon of  the    "  Cristina,"  the   Surgeon  of  the 
"  Ulloa,"  and  Chief  Engineers  of  the  "  Cris- 
tina" and  "  Austria." 

Vigilance 
By  naval  authority  the  most   careful  watch  was  kept  in 
the  river  as  well   as  on  the  coast,  to  secure  the  defence  of 
the  port. 

Batteries 

The  gunners  of  the  batteries  defending  Manila  and  Cavite 
showed  the  highest  degree  of  energy  and  heroism.      Every 

3^ 


498      An  American   Cruiser  in  the  East 

one  applauds  the  brave  artillerymen  who,  by  their  calmness 
and  skill,  did  all  that  was  possible  with  the  guns  assigned 
to  them,  allowing  for  their  deficiencies  and  imperfections. 

The  battery  that  did  most  harm  to  the  enemy  was  the 
one  on  Point  Sangley  made  up  of  Hontoria  guns.  From 
one  of  these  guns  came  the  shot  which  the  "  Boston  "  re- 
ceived, while  four  ships  which  had  altogether  sixty-five  guns 
were  pouring  their  fires  on  this  battery  to  reduce  it  to 
silence.  One  gun  having  been  crippled,  the  other  kept  on 
playing,  firing  whenever  damage  could  be  done  and  avoiding 
waste  of  ammunition. 

To  one  of  its  shots  is  attributed  the  hurt  which  turned 
the  "  Baltimore  "  from  the  fight.  This  gun  must  have 
greatly  annoyed  the  Yankees,  to  judge  by  the  efforts  they 
made  to  silence  its  fires,  following  it  up  until  six  gunners 
had  been  killed  and  four  wounded. 

On  this  account  it  is  proposed  to  demand  the  bestowal 
of  the  laurel-wreathed  cross  of  San  Fernando  to  the  valiant 
gunners  who  served  this  battery. 

The  Luenta  battery  at  Manila,  which  assailed  the  Yankee 
ships  with  much  vigor,  was  the  object  of  the  enemy's  special 
attention  as  he  stood  past  the  fortifications  of  Manila,  head- 
ing for  Cavite. 

Guns  were  also  mounted  at  the  entrance  of  the  bay  on 
Corregidor  and  Caballo  Islands,  on  El  Fraile  rock,  on  the 
south  shore  at  Point  Restinga  and  at  Mariveles,  Punta 
Gorda,  and  Point  Lasisi  on  the  north  shore.  The  guns 
on  Corregidor  Island  were  of  about  six-inch  calibre  ;  similar 
guns  were  mounted  on  the  rock  and  on  Point  Restinga. 
The  other  batteries  had  guns  of  smaller  calibre  and  short 
range. 

Kind  Treatment 

The  Spanish  Club,  ever  earnest  in  remedying  misfortune, 
gave  liberal  help  to  the  refugees  who  survived  from  our 
ships  of  war. 


Appendix  499 

Bread  and  Water 

Doubtless  the  Civil  Commission  has  arranged  to  secure 
supplies  for  the  city,  but  it  is  certain  since  Sunday  there  has 
been  great  scarcity  of  everything,  and  speculators  have 
got  what  prices  they  cared  to  ask  for  articles  of  prime 
necessitv. 

Already  people  are  growing  calmer,  and  the  shops  are 
open,  and  it  is  to  be  expected  that  Manila  will  go  on 
resuming  her  usual  lite   and  animation. 

The  Country  responds 
The  great  masses  of  the  rural   population  of  the   Philip- 
pines, as  well  as   the  leaders  of  the  nation,  have  responded 
like  loyal  sons  of  Spain,  sharing  our  pains  and  assisting  in 
our  labors. 

Telegram 

The  admiral,  Sefior  Montojo,  has  received  a  telegram 
of  congratulation  from  the  Minister  of  Marine,  who,  in  his 
own  name,  and  in  the  name  of  the  Queen  of  Spain,  felici- 
tates the  navy  of  this  archipelago  for  gallant  behavior  on 
the  day  of  Cavite.  These  are  the  terms  of  the  telegram 
referred  to  :  "  Honor  and  glory  to  the  Spanish  Fleet  which 
fought  so  heroically   in  the  bay." 

No  Papers 
After  two  davs  of  silence,  in  which  our  paper  failed  to 
see  the  light,  by  reason  of  exceptional  circumstances  oc- 
curring in  Manila,  and  well  known  to  all  the  public,  we 
return  to  our  regular  issues,  trusting  in  the  good-will  of  our 
subscribers. 


Appendix  IV 


THE  CAPTURE  OF  MANILA  AND  THE  PHILIPPINES  BY 
THE  COMBINED  SEA  AND  LAND  FORCES  OF  THE 
UNITED     STATES,    AUGUST     IJ,     1898 

U.  S.  S.  "  Baltimore,"  Manila, 
August  18,   1898. 

As  soon  as  the  Spanish  fleet  had  been  annihilated,  the 
insurgents  began  to  assemble  about  Cavite,  and  on  May  20, 
General  Aguinaldo  and  staflF  arrived  from  Hong-kong,  and 
began  operations  against  the  Spaniards  on  the  land  side. 
The  people  of  the  neighboring  provinces  were  soon  under 
arms,  and  the  investment  of  Manila  was  begun.  Captures 
of  small  detachments  of  Spanish  troops  were  of  almost  daily 
occurrence,  and  the  arms  and  ammunition  captured  in  this 
way  supplied  the  insurgents  with  the  means  of  continuing 
the  warfare.  Many  of  the  insurgents  were  armed  with 
machetes,  spears,  axes,  or  bows  and  arrows,  and  their  com- 
missary was  of  the  poorest  kind,  —  a  handful  or  two  of  rice, 
a  few  eggs,  and  an  occasional  fowl,  which  were  contributed 
by  friends  of  their  cause,  was  about  the  extent  of  it ;  and 
on  this  fare  they  made  long  weary  marches,  built  earthworks, 
burrowed  trenches,  and  fought  a  hand-to-hand  fight  with 
their  enemy,  right  up  to  the  Malate   fort  and   magazine. 

The  insurgents  soon  had  the  neighboring  provinces  in 
their  possession,  and  invested  Manila  on  the  land  side,  and 
a  struggle  for  the  possession  of  the  magazine  and  Fort 
Malate  went   on  day  and  night  with  varying  success. 


Philippine  Artillery,   Malite,  July  i,  1-98. 


Church  and  Convent,  Old  Cavite.     Scene  of  In-upc^ex' 
Bombardment,  June  15,  1S9S. 


Appendix  501 

On  June  30,  transports  arrived  from  San  Francisco, 
under  convoy  of  the  U.  S.  S."  Charleston,"  brino-ino-  Brio-- 

^  'Dob 

adier-General  Anderson  and  about  four  thousand  troops, 
who  were  landed  at  Cavite  Arsenal,  the  insurgent  forces 
moving  out  of  old  Cavite  to  make  room  for  the  Americans. 
On  July  16  and  17,  the  second  detachment  of  United  States 
troops  arrived.  These  were  landed,  some  at  Cavite  and 
others  at  Tambo,  and  the  men  of  the  first  detachment 
were  moved  up  from  Cavite  Arsenal  to  Tambo,  where  they 
encamped  under  the  guns  of  the  U.  S.S.  "  Raleigh." 

The  insurgents  held  many  meetings  in  the  church  at 
old  Cavite,  and  on  July  i.  General  Aguinaldo  proclaimed 
the  Republic  of  the  Philippines  with  the  following  declara- 
tion :  — 

1.  The  independence  of  the  Philippines  shall  be  proclaimed. 

2.  A  republic  shall  be  established  with  a  government  designated 
by  General  Aguinaldo,  and  approved  by  the  admiral  and  general 
commanding  the  United  States  forces. 

3.  The  Government  will  recognize  the  temporary  intervention 
of  Commissioners  designated  for  the  present  by  the  United  States. 

4.  The  American  Protectorate  shall  be  recognized  on  the  same 
conditions  as  arranged  for  Cuba. 

5.  The  Philippine  ports  shall  be  opened  free  for  the  universal 
commerce  of  the  world. 

6.  Precautionary  measures  shall  be  adopted  against  Chinese  im- 
migration, so  as  to  regulate  the  competition  with  the  work  ot  the 
natives. 

7.  The  corrupt  judicial  svstem  at  present  existing  shall  be  re- 
formed, intrusting  at  the  commencement  the  administration  of  justice 
to  competent  European  legal  officials. 

8.  The  complete  libertv  of  association,  as  likewise  that  of  the 
press,  shall  be  declared. 

9.  There  shall  be  a  general  religious  toleration,  but  measures 
shall  be  adopted  for  the  abolition  and  expulsion  of  the  religious 
communities  who  with  an  iron  hand  have  hitherto  demoralized  the 
actual  civil  administration. 


502      An   American   Cruiser  in  the  East 

10.  Measures  conducive  to  the  working,  development,  and  pros- 
pects of  the  natural  resources  of  the  country  shall  be  adopted. 

11.  The  development  of  the  public  wealth  shall  be  facilitated, 
together  with  the  opening  up  of  roads  and  railways. 

I  2.  The  existing  obstacles  to  the  forming  of  commercial  enter- 
prises and  investment  of  foreign  capital  shall  be  suppressed. 

13.  The  new  Government  will  keep  the  public  order,  and  will 
be  obliged  to  prevent  every  act  of  reprisal  against  the  Spaniards. 

14.  The  Spanish  official  element  shall  be  removed  to  some  other 
safe  and  healthy  island  until  the  opportunity  is  presented  for  them 
to  return  to  Spain. 

On  July  25,  Major-General  Wesley  Merritt  arrived  on 
the  transport  "  Newport  "  and  assumed  command  of  the 
United  States  land  forces.  The  United  States  troops  were 
advanced  from  Tambo  to  Pasai,  and  during  the  week  of 
August  6  they  were  advanced  to  the  trenches  which  had 
been  made  by  the  insurgents  within  a  few  hundred  yards 
of  the  magazine  and  Fort  Malate.  The  new-comers  were 
as  disagreeable  to  the  Spaniards  as  were  the  men  who  dug 
the  trenches  ;  so  the  Americans  were  assaulted  on  the  last 
three  nights  of  the  same  week,  with  the  result  that  some 
thirty  of  the  Americans  were  killed  and  a  larger  number 
were  wounded,  which  seemed  to  be  cold-blooded  murder, 
as  such  work  could  not  be  decisive  of  the  final  result,  and 
could   not  be  called   war. 

On  Sunday,  August  7,  General  Merritt  and  Admiral 
Dewey  sent  a  joint  note  to  the  Governor-General,  as 
follows  :  — 

Manila  Bay,  August  7,  1898, 

To  the  General-in-Chief,  commanding  the  Spanish  Forces  in  Manila  : 

Sir,  —  We  have  the  honor  to  notify  your  Excellency  that  the 
operations  of  the  land  and  naval  forces  of  the  United  States  against 
the  defences  of  Manila  may  begin  at  any  time  after  the  expiration 
of  forty-eight  hours  from  the  hour  of  receipt  by  you  of  this  com- 
munication, or  sooner  if  made  necessary  by  an  attack  on  your  part. 


Appendix  503 

This  notice  is  given  to  aftbrd   you  an   opportunity  to   remove  all 
non-combatants  from  tlie  city. 

Very  respectfully, 

(Signed)  Wesley  Merritt, 

Major-General^  U.  S.  A.,  commanding  Land 
Forces  of  the  United  States. 

(Signed)  George  Dewey, 

Rear-Admiral,   U.  S.  N.,  commanding  U.  S. 
N'aval  Forces  in  Asiatic  Station. 

To  which  the  Governor-General  replied  :  — 

Manila,  August  7,  1898 
To  the  Major-General  of  the  Army  and  the  Rear-Admiral  of  the  Manual 
Forces  of  the  United  States : 

Gentlemen, — I  have  the  honor  to  inform  your  Excellencies 
that  at  half-past  twelve  o'clock  I  received  the  notice  with  which 
you  favored  me,  that  after  forty-eight  hours  have  elapsed  you  may 
begin  operations  against  this  fortified  city,  or  at  an  earlier  hour  if 
the  forces  under  your  command  are  attacked  by  mine. 

As  your  notice  is  sent  for  the  purpose  of  providing  for  the  safety 
of  non-combatants,  1  give  thanks  to  your  Excellencies  for  the  humane 
sentiments  you  have  shown,  and  state  that,  finding  myself  surrounded 
by  insurrectionary  forces,  I  am  without  a  place  of  refuge  for  the 
increased  number  of  wounded,  sick,  women,  and  children  who  are 
now  within  the  walls. 

Respectfully,  and  kissing  the  hand  of  your  Excellencies, 

(Signed)  Fermin  Jaudenes, 

Governor-General  and  Captain-General 
of  the  Philippines. 

Our  troops  were  not  molested  after  this  correspondence. 

A  parley  began,  and  at  half-past  eight  on  Saturday  morn- 
ing, after  a  heavy  down-pour  of  rain,  the  vessels  of  our 
fleet, —  flagship  "  Olympia,"  "Baltimore,"  "Monterey," 
"  Raleigh,"  "  Charleston,"  "  Boston,"  "  Petrel,"  "  Callao  " 
(captured  Spanish  gunboat),  and  the  "Olympia's"  steam 
tender,  —  with  colors  set   at  each  masthead  and  with  ships' 


504      An   American   Cruiser  in   the   East 

companies  at  battle  stations,  began  to  form  in  battle  order. 
While  we  were  forming,  the  band  of  the  British  flagship 
"  Immortalite"  played  the  "Star-Spangled  Banner,"  after 
which  the  "  Immortalite  "  and  the  "Iphigenia"  went  over 
and  took  positions,  one  at  each  end  of  the  line  of  the 
foreign  men-of-war.  The  Japanese  war  vessels  remained 
off  Cavite. 

The  "  Olympia,"  "  Raleigh,"  "  Petrel,"  "  Callao,"  and 
the  "  Olympia's  "  steam  tender  headed  slowly  toward  Fort 
Malate,  while  the  "  Monterey  "  went  close  in  to  the  front 
of  the  city  to  draw  the  enemy's  fire,  and  the  "  Baltimore," 
"  Charleston,"  and  "  Boston  "  acted  as  a  reserve  division, 
and  the  "  Concord  "  remained  near  the  Pasig  River.  At 
half-past  nine,  it  still  being  thick  and  raining,  the  "Olym- 
pia," "  Raleigh,  "  Petrel,"  "  Callao,"  and  the  "  Olympia's  " 
steam  tender  opened  fire  upon  Fort  Malate,  and  by  five 
minutes  past  eleven  the  guns  of  that  foit  were  silenced. 
Then  the  left  wing  of  our  army,  under  the  command  of 
Brigadier-General  Green,  rushed  out  of  their  trenches  and 
made  a  dash  for  the  fort.  After  a  hand-to-hand  encounter, 
which  lasted  for  some  minutes,  the  enemy  stubbornly  fell 
back,  disputing  every  inch  of  the  ground,  as  our  troops  ad- 
vanced. The  little  "  Callao  "  kept  ahead,  and  threw  shells 
into  the  enemy's  lines  to  clear  the  way  for  our  troops  as 
they  advanced  along  the  beach  and  through  the  streets  of 
Malate  (a  suburb  of  Manila),  The  Luneta  fort  was  found 
to  be  evacuated  ;  when  our  men  turned  by  it  and  returned 
to  the  beach,  fighting  their  way  up  to  the  gates  of  the  old 
walled  city.  In  the  mean  time  the  "  Monterey"  patrolled 
the  entire  water-front,  and  the  other  vessels  of  the  fleet 
proceeded  along  very  slowly,  so  as  to  have  our  troops,  at  all 
times,  well  under  the  protection  of  our  guns. 

At  the  same  time  the  right  wing  of  the  army,  under 
command  of  Brigadier-General  MacArthur,  advanced  along 
the  roads  further  removed  from  the  water-front  and  fought 


^;x),H  *■ 


Spanish  Arms  Stacked  on  the  Plaza,  Old  IManila, 
August  13,  1S9S. 


9.5-INCH  Gun  (Spanish).    Four  in  the  Battery, 
Old  Manila  (Water  Front). 


Appendix  505 

its  way  to  the  gates  of  the  old  city.  Then  the  steam  launch 
of  the  Belgian  Consul,  which  had  been  following  our  fleet 
during  the  action,  took  a  representative  of  General  Merritt 
from  the  army  flagship  "  Zafiro  "  and  a  representative  of 
Admiral  Dewey  from  the  "  Olympia"  into  the  old  city  of 
Manila,  under  a  flag  of  truce,  where  they  demanded  the 
surrender  of  the  Philippines.  At  half-past  two  in  the  after- 
noon the  preliminary  terms  of  surrender  had  been  agreed 
upon,  and  the  launch  returned,  and  at  nine  minutes  past 
five  the  United  States  flag  replaced  the  Spanish  flag  on  the 
plaza  of  the  old  city.  The  guns  of  each  ship  thundered 
forth  twentv-one  guns,  the  Spaniards  ceased  to  rule  the 
Philippines,  and  Major-General  Wesley  Merritt  of  the  United 
States  Army  became  the  first  American  governor,  and  took 
up  his  headquarters  in  the  palace  of  the  Spanish  royal 
governor  in  the  old   city. 

Thirty  soldiers  were  killed  and  seventy  wounded  in  the 
battle,  and  it  is  supposed  that  the  enemy's  loss  was  about 
eight   hundred  killed   and   wounded. 

Incidents. 

Not  a  man  of  the  fleet  was  injured  in  the  battle. 

It  is  believed  that  this  last  defence  of  Manila  was  made  by  the 
native  troops  who  remained  loyal  to  Spain,  as  the  Spaniards  were 
not  anxious  to  renew  their  experiences  of  the  first  of  May  with  us. 

While  the  artillery  of  the  right  wing  of  the  army  was  advancing, 
the  Astor  battery  made  a  sharp  turn  in  the  road  when  they  found 
themselves  ambushed  under  a  galling  fire,  and  the  situation  was 
such  that  they  could  not  swing  their  guns  around  to  use  them  ;  so 
they  jumped  from  their  guns,  and  with  sabre  and  revolver  in  hand 
dashed  at  the  enemy  in  the  bush.  In  a  few  moments  the  regulars 
were  in  the  melee,  and  the  Spaniards  fell  back,  but  still  kept  up  a 
hot  fire  with  their  rifles. 

The  Spaniards  had  scattered  "block"  "log"  houses,  with  loop- 
holes for  small  arms,  about  the  country  to  command  the  roads  of 
approach  to   Manila.      At    block   house  No.  14  there  was  a  hody 


506      An   American   Cruiser  in  the  East 

contested   fight   for   some  minutes,   where   several  were   killed  and 
many  were  wounded   on  both  sides. 

Just  as  the  Philippines  were  surrendered  to  us,  the  Spaniards 
celebrated  the  event  by  burning  one  of  their  gunboats  and  scuttling 
another,  besides  several  smaller  craft,  just  inside  the  entrance  to  the 
Pasig  River.  The  Spaniards  were  warned  against  doing  any  more 
work  of  this  kind  ;  and  when  it  was  explained  to  them  that  they 
would  not  look  very  dignified  when  dangling  at  the  end  of  a  piece  of 
Manila  rope,  they  took  the  hint,  and  there  were  no  more  acts  of 
vandalism.  The  Spanish  troops  were  all  disarmed  and  paroled ; 
their  officers  being  allowed  to  keep  their  side  arms,  which  they 
continued  to  wear  about  the  town  while  puffing  cigarette  smoke  and 
explaining  how  it  happened. 

When  the  sun  had  set  behind  the  western  horizon,  and  darkness 
had  fallen  over  land  and  sea,  the  German  flagship  "  Kaiserin 
Augusta  "  steamed  out  of  the  bay  with  the  late  Governor-General 
Agustin  and  family  on  board,  and  conveyed  them  to  Hong-kong. 

Sunday  was  a  quiet  day,  and  most  of  the  vessels  having  refugees 
on  board  returned  to  the  mouth  of  the  Pasig.  Father  Dougherty, 
of  General  Merritt's  staff,  celebrated  mass  in  the  cathedral  to  an 
immense  congregation.  While  the  service  lasted,  it  was  well  ;  but 
when  he  made  his  address  in  the  English  language,  there  was  con- 
sternation amongst  the  vast  throng. 

On  Monday  morning  the  British  flagship  "  Immortalite " 
steamed  over  from  her  place  in  the  foreign  fleet,  hoisted  the  Ameri- 
can flag  at  her  masthead,  and  saluted  it  with  twenty-one  guns, 
while  her  band  played  the  "  Star-Spangled  Banner  "  and  "  Yankee 
Doodle."  She  then  took  a  new  anchorage  near  our  fleet,  and  was 
soon  joined  by  her  consort,  the  "  Iphigenia."  The  English  seemed 
as  much  pleased  over  the  victory  as   our  own  people. 

The  Civic  Guard,  loyal  natives,  are  policing  the  city  under  our 
control,  and  the  custom-house  and  post-office  are  practically  operated 
by  the  people  who  were  in  charge  under  Spanish  rule  ;  everything 
goes  on  as  usual,  and  the  business  of  the  city  is  being  rapidly 
resumed.  Some  of  the  women  show  a  spiteful  feeling  against  us, 
but  that  will  soon  disappear,  —  at  least,  in  the  open  manifestation. 

The  city  is  very  short  of  provisions  and  goods  of  all  kinds. 
Horses,  mules,  and  water-buffalo  were  used  for  food  ;   and  vegeta- 


Appendix  507 

bles  and  fruits  have  been  almost  unknown  for  more  than  a  month,  — 
ever  since  the  insurgents  invested  the  city. 

There  is  very  little  friction,  no  more  than  would  be  expected 
in  getting  an  army  of  thousands  of  men  settled  in  a  captured  city 
and  the  islands  in  working  order.  The  insurgents  have  retired 
from  this  neighborhood. 

At  noon  on  August  16  an  English  steamer  came  in  to  the  fleet 
with  news  that  hostilities  had  ceased. 


INDEX 


Index 


Aberdeen,  the  island  of,  Hong-kong, 
400  ;  dry-docks  at,  407. 

Aborigines,  of  Formosa,  tlie,  325  ;  ori- 
gin of,  325  ;  their  division  into  tribes, 
325  ;  personal  appearance  of,  325  ; 
defy  the  authority  of  China,  325  ; 
their  dress,  325  ;  their  honesty,  325  ; 
burial  customs  of,  325  ;  wars  com- 
mon among,  325  ;  evidences  of  civili- 
zation among,  325. 

Acrobats,  juvenile,  in  Japan,  SS. 

Actors,  Chinese,  365. 

Actors,  Japanese,  66. 

Adams,  Will,  the  story  of,  72. 

Addamson,  B.  F.,  405. 

Africa,  51  ;  Chinese  emigrants  in,  3S7. 

Agriculture,  Chinese,  388. 

Aguinaldo,  at  Cavite,  491,  500  ;  the  na- 
tive forces  of,  492  ;  fraternizes  with 
the  American  forces,  492  ;  begins 
land  operations  against  the  Spaniards, 
500  ;  his  declaration,  501,  502. 

Agustin,  Governor-General,  see  Da- 
villa,  Basalio  Agustin. 

Ah-Fo,  the  author's  Chinese  guide,  34S. 

Ah-Sin,  the  author's  Chinese  guide, 
232,  233. 

Aichi,  the  prefecture  of,  in  Japan,  112. 

"  Aikuchi  "  (dirk),  the,  in  Japan,  216. 

Ainos,  the,  of  Korea,  28 1. 

Ajiawa  River,  the,  Japan,  153,  155. 

"  Akaji,"  the,  of  the  Japanese  navy, 
445,  446  ;  attacks  the  Chinese  fleet, 
452-455  ;  badly  damaged,  455. 

Akashi,  Japan,  22S. 

"  Akitsushinia,"  the,  of  the  Japanese 
navy,  445,  446;  attacks  the  "Wei 
Yuen,"  449  ;  takes  the  "  Tsao  Kiang" 


as  prize,  450 ;  attacks   the  Chinese 
fleet,  452-455,  460. 

Alaska,  18  ;  size  of,  22  ;  richness  of, 
22. 

Alaska  Commercial  Company,  the,  14,, 
17,  19  ;  the  business  of,  28,  29. 

"Alert,"  the  U.  S.  S.,  3  ;  starts  on 
her  cruise,  5  ;  description  of,  5  ;  the 
ship's  company,  6  ;  at  Victoria,  8  ; 
at  Iliuliuk,  13,  34;  cruising  about 
Behring  Sea,  24-37 ;  Unalaska  to- 
Kamtchatka,  Siberia,  34-37  ;  on  pas- 
sage to  Japan,  46-50  ;  at  Yokohama, 
51  ;  at  Kobe,  Japan,  124  ;  a  trip  to 
the  northwestward,  227-236;  aground, 
228  ;  a  fire-drill  on  board,  228  ; 
"  man  overboard"  drill  on,  229;  on 
the  coast  of  Korea,  237  ;  target-prac- 
tice of,  238,  417  ;  at  Ping-yang, 
Korea,  259  ;  in  the  Yellow  Sea,  293  ; 
at  Shanghai,  China,  293  :  at  Ningpo, 
China,  305  ;  running  before  a  mon- 
soon, 331  ;  at  Swatow,  China,  336  ; 
at  Canton,  China,  344  ;  at  Hong- 
kong, China,  399;  at  Manila,  418; 
at  home  again,  440. 

"  Aleute  Colony,"  the,  21. 

Aleutes,  the,  description  of,  19;  on  St. 
George  Island,  29;  in  Japan,  64. 

Aleutian  Islands,  the,  5 ;  description 
of,  iS;  the  inhabitants,  19;  popu- 
lation of,  21  ;  the  half-breeds,  21  ; 
size  of,  22,  32,  34,  36,  320. 

Allied  forces,  the,  occupy  Funghai, 
China,  319. 

"  Amagi,"  the,  of  the  Japanese  navy,, 

445- 
Amaral,   De,  governor  of  Macao,  415  ; 

assassinated,  415. 
Americans,  the,  on  St.  George  Island, 


51 


Index 


29;  in  Japan,  51,  64;  in  tlie  Pliilip- 
pine  Islands,  437. 

American-Spanisli  War,  tlie,  479-507  ; 
tlie  loss  of  life  in,  490. 

Amoy,  the  island  of,  China,  opened  to 
foreign  trade,  318,  320,  325  ;  forma- 
tion of,  331  ;  settlement  and  growth 
of,  332  ;  location  of,  332  ;  the  Deified 
Rocks  at,  332  ;  Chinese  citadel  at, 
333  ;  fortifications  of,  23j  j  'h^  '^^6" 
of,   333;  the  streets  of,  333;  the  cli- 


mate of. 


characteristics  of  the 


natives  of,  334,  335  ;  captured  by  the 
British,   336 ;    fruits    and   fauna   of, 

336. 

Ancestral  tablets,  Chinese,  310;  de- 
scription of,  310,  315. 

Anderson,  Brigadier-General,  at  Ma- 
nila, 492,  501. 

Animals,  Korean,  287. 

"Ann,"  the  British  brig,  lost  on  the 
coast  of  Formosa,  330. 

Antong,  458  ;  held  by  the  Japanese, 
460. 

Antonio,  Camoens's  slave,  413,  414. 

Arabians,  the,  in  Canton,  China,  362, 
372;  in  the  Philippine  Islands,  425. 

Arima,  the  plains  of,  Japan,  125,  141. 

Arita,  in  Hizen,  165,  222,  223. 

Armor,  ancient  Japanese,  98. 

Art,  Japanese,  20S-214. 

Artisans,  Chinese,  methods  of,  302. 

Asakusa,  Japan,  S3  ;  the  Emperor's 
Palace  at,  114. 

Asan,  Korean  town  of,  443;  Chinese 
troops  land  at,  443,  449,  450. 

Ashikaga  Shoguns,  the,  in  Japan,  202. 

Asia,  18,  36. 

Assan,  the  volcano,  112. 

Astor  battery,  the,  at  Manila,  505. 

"  Atago,"  the,  of  the  Japanese  navy, 
445, 446. 

Athletic  sports,  in  China,  354. 

Attau,  22,  36. 

Auckland,  Mount,  Korea,  276,  277. 

Augustinian  Order,  the,  in  the  Philip- 
pines, 474. 

Auping,  Formosa,  330. 

Austin,  Mount,  Victoria,  343,  402,  403. 

Australia,  Chinese  emigrants  in,  387. 

Avatcha,  the  bay  of,  ;^y,  44;  descrip- 
tion of,  44,  45,  46. 


Awata  ware,  Japanese,  225. 
Azaleas,  in  Japan,  iii. 


"Balboa's  Ocean,"  ti. 

Balibac,  the  island  of,  471. 

Baltic  Sea,  the,  40. 

Baltimore,  city  of,  2,  241. 

"  Baltimore,"  the  U.  S.  S.,  reaches 
Yokohama,  479 ;  notified  to  leave 
Hong-kong,  479 ;  in  the  battle  of 
Cavite,  484 ;  fires  the  first  gun  of 
the  American-Spanish  war,  4S4;  the 
scene  on  board,  485,  486;  destroys  a 
Spanish  gunboat,  4S7 ;  attacks  the 
forts,  4S8;  demands  the  surrender 
of    the   Corregidor   forts,    489,   495, 

4981  503)  504- 
Baltimore     Manual     Training    School, 

the  growth  of,  i ;  Mr.  Ford's  work 

at,  I. 
Bamboo,  in  Japan,  iii ;  in  China,  390. 
Bamboo-grove,     at     Fukiagu,     Japan, 

III. 
Bandaisan,  the  grass-covered,  iii. 
''  Banjo,"  the,   of  the  Japanese  navy, 

445,  446. 
Bankers,  Chinese,  365. 
Banko  ware,  Japanese,  225. 
Banyan-trees,  Formosa,  327,  341. 
Barber,  the  Chinese,  310. 
Barber-shop,  the  Japanese,  136. 
"  Bare  Pagoda,"  the,  at  Canton,  China, 

356,  357- 
"  Beacon  Hill,"  10. 
"  Bear,"  the,  26. 
Bear-hunting,  43. 
Bears,  43. 
Beaver  Bay,  13. 
Beech,  the,  in  Japan,  no. 
Behring,  the   intrepid,  shipwreck  and 

deatli  of,   36;   at    Petropaulski,   38; 

monument  erected  to,  39. 
Behring's  Island,  28,  36. 
Behring's  Sea,  the,  3,   11,  12,   13,  18; 

cruising  about,  24-37  ;  36,  40. 
"Bell-roads,"  in  Korea,  253,  254. 
Benovento,    F.,    in    command    of    the 

"  General    Lezo,"    in    the    battle   of 

Cavite,  491. 
'•Benten,''     the     Japanese     goddess, 

temples  of,  71. 


Index 


513 


Benton    Dori,    the,  at  Yokohama,   64, 

65. 
Beriondo,  the,  422. 
Birch,  the,  in  Japan,  no. 
Birds,  Korean,  2S7. 
Bizen  ware,  Japanese,  225. 
Blacksmith,  the  Chinese,  310. 
Blanco,     General,     governor     of     the 

Philippines,  475;  recalled,  475. 
Blind    Men's   Home,   the,    at   Canton, 

China,  363. 
Blockhouse  No.  14,  at  Manila,  505. 
"Bluffs,  the,"   at  Yokohama,   52,    55, 

57- 
*'  Boca-Tigris,"  the,  at  Canton,  China, 

343,  344,  399- 
Bogaslov,  the  changeable  island  of,  ^4, 

35- 

Bogaslov,  the  old  volcano,  history  of, 
34,  112. 

Bonm  Islands,  the,  112. 

Bonzes  (priests),  Japanese,  171. 

"  Boston,"  the  U.  S.  S.,  in  the  battle 
of  Cavite,  4S4,  4SS,  491,  49S,  503, 
504. 

Botanical  Garden,  the,  at  Hong-kong, 
404. 

Botanical  Gardens,  the,  at  Tokio,  106, 
no. 

Bricks,  Chinese,  234. 

British,  the,  victorious  over  the  Rus- 
sians at  Petropaulski,  39  ;  in  Japan, 
51;  occupy  Funghai,  China,  319; 
capture  Amoy,  China,  336 ;  capture 
and  occupy  Canton,  China,  346 ; 
Hong-kon  ceded  to,  400 ;  occupy 
Macao,  China,  416;  capture  Manila, 

432- 

British  Columbia,  6. 

Broughton  Bay,  Korea,  271,  272;  de- 
scription of,  273. 

Bronze-Horse  Temple,  the,  see 
O' Siieva  Temple.,  the. 

Bronzes,  Japanese,  154,  217;  the  manu- 
facture of,  21S. 

Bubbling-well  Road,  the,  Shanghai, 
295. 
-"Buddha,  the  great  statue  of,  69 ;  de- 
scription of,  70,71;  in  Kobe,  130, 
131;  in  the  O'Sueva  Temple,  164; 
the  teachings  of,  19S,  256,  386. 

Buddhism,  introduction  into  Japan  of. 


130,  192,  195;  the  principles  of,  198, 
200;  its  introduction  into  China, 
395- 

Buddhist  priests,  in  Korea,  269,  270. 

Buddhists,  the,  in  Japan,  199 ;  their 
beliefs,  200. 

Buddliist  temples,  in  Japan,  105;  de- 
scribed, 106;  T99;  in  Canton,  China, 
372. 

Bull  cart,  Japanese,  179. 

Bund,  the,  at  Kobe,  Japan,  125,  126. 

Bund,  the,  at  Yokohama,  56,  59,  63. 

Burdock,  the,  in  Japan,  ni. 

Burweed,  the,  in  Japan,  in. 

Basilin,  the  island  of,  471. 

Butuano  king,  the,  472. 

Butuano  River,  the,  Maghallans  at, 
472. 


Caballo  Islands,  the,  498. 
Cairo,  37. 

California,  41;  the  missions  of,  425. 
California  fruits,  introduced  into  China, 

233- 

California  Heavy  Artillery,  the,  at  Ma- 
nila, 492. 

"  Callao,"  the  Spanish  gunboat,  cap- 
tured in  the  battle  of  Cavite,  503, 
504. 

Camel  caravan,  in  China,  391. 

Camellia,  the,  in  Japan,  in. 

Camoens,  the  grotto  of,  at  Macao,  412; 
the  "  Lusiad,"  412  ;  his  history,  413. 

Camphor,  in  Japan,  in. 

Canada,  28,  152;  Chinese  emigrants  in, 

387,  389- 

Candy  manufacturer,  the,  in  Japan,  89. 

Canocao  Battery,  the,  at  Cavite,  490. 

Canton,  China,  233;  opened  to  foreign 
trade,  318;  the  approach  to,  343, 
344 ;  location  of,  344  ;  the  scene  off 
the  city,  345,  346;  captured  and  oc- 
cupied by  the  British  and  French, 
346  ;  the  old  city,  348 ;  the  Tartars 
in,  348;  the  city  walls,  348;  the 
houses  of,  348,  351;  the  streets  of, 
351 ;  a  well-governed  city,  351  ;  pop- 
ulation of,  351  ;  the  shops  of,  351  ; 
the  people  of,  353  ;  the  Guild-hall  at, 
354;  the  Temple  of  the  Five  Hun- 


ZZ 


5H 


Index 


dred  Genii  at,  354 ;  the  Temple  of 
Longevity  at,  355  ;  the  Temple  of 
the  Five  Genu  at,  356 ;  the  "  Bare 
Pagoda"  at,  356,  357;  the  Confu- 
cian temple  at,  356;  the  "Sleeping 
Buddha"  at,  359;  the  "  Temple  of 
Horrors  "  at,  361 ;  the  Temple  of  the 
God  of  War  at,  362;  the  Mahometan 
mosque  at,  362;  the  examination 
hall,  362;  the  mint  at,  363;  the 
charities  of,  363;  the  cosmopolitan 
life  of,  363;  the  pawn-shops,  364; 
the  theatrical  school  at,  365;  opium- 
smoking  in,  366;  the  execution- 
ground,  367;  the  suburbs  of,  372; 
Buddhist  temples  at,  372  ;  the  cli- 
mate of,  372  ;  hostility  of  the  people 
to  foreigners,  372  ;  its  favorable  loca- 
tion, 372;  maintains  her  own  army 
and  navy,  375;  exports  and  imports 

oi,  375'  399,  4i6- 
Canton  (China)  boats,  the,  367. 
Cape  Colony,  64. 
Cardosa,  L.,in  command  of  the  "  Reina 

Cristina "    in   the   battle  of   Cavite, 

490;  killed  in  battle,  497. 
Carlos  IV.,   Don,   of  Spain,  422;  his 

statue  at  Manila,  422,  424. 
Caroline  Islands,  the,  469. 
Carpenters,   Japanese,    135;    Chinese, 

234- 
"Cash."  Chinese,  249;  value  of,  291, 

384-' 
"Castilla,"  the  Spanish  vessel,  in  the 

battle  of  Cavite,  4S6;  sunk,  490,  495, 

496. 
Caugue,  the,  as  used  in  China,  359. 
Cavite  Arsenal,  the,  492,  501. 
Cavite,   the  naval  battle  of,   479-491 ; 

formation  of  the  American  fleet,  484  ; 

Spanish  account  of,  492-499. 
Cavite,    Point,   batteries  of,    43S,  475, 

48 5  ;  fires  on  the  American  fleet,  486, 

4S7,  488;  captured  by  the  American 

fleet,  489,  490,   493,  494,   495,   497, 

500. 
Cazadores,  the  First  Battalion  of,  494. 
Cebu,     the    city    of,    an    open     port, 

470. 
Cebu,  the  island  of,  470;   Maghallans 

at,   472;    Legaspi   at,    473;    handed 

over  to  ecclesiastical  authority,  473. 


Celandine,  the,  in  Japan,  iii. 

Central  America,  Chinese  emigrants 
in,  3S7. 

Ceramic  art,  Japanese,  birth  of,  220. 

Chamberlain,  Rt.  Hon.  Joseph,  479. 

Chan-chan  foo,  China,  336. 

Chang-chu,  the  seaport  of,  China,  333, 

Chang-hua,  Formosa,  326. 

Channel  Island,  461;  magazine  ex- 
plodes on,  462. 

"  Chao  Kiang,"  the,  of  the  Chinese 
navy,  448. 

"  Chao  Yuen,"  the,  of  the  Chinese 
navy,  44S  ;  attacked  by  the  Japanese 
fleet,  453-455;  rammed  by  the  "  Chi 
Yuen,''  454. 

Charles  I.,  of  Spain,  472. 

"  Charleston,"  the  U.  S.  cruiser,  ar- 
rives at  Manila  Bay,  491,  500,  503, 
504. 

Chasing,  in  Japan,  216. 

Chefoo,  China,  227;  the  -'Alert"  at, 
230;  the  French  troops  in,  231;  the 
later  foreign  settlement,  231 ;  the 
wonderful  climate  of,  231,  235; 
the  houses  of,  231  ;  the  churches 
and  clubs  of,  231 ;  the  older  settle- 
ment of,  231 ;  hotels  of,  231  ;  irriga- 
tion in,  232 ;  agriculture  in,  233 ; 
California  fruits  introduced  into, 
233 ;  schools,  missions,  and  churches 
in,  233;  shops  in,  233;  unskilful 
mechanics  in,  234;  the  harbor  of, 
235;    population  of,   235;    trade  of, 

235>  ^57,  449,  45_t,462,  463-_ 

Chekiang,  the  province  of,  China,  306. 

Chelto,  Korea,  260;  location  of,  262: 
houses  of,  262  ;  a  town  of  agricul- 
turists, 262 ;  granary  at,  266. 

Chemulpo,  Korea,  237,  238,  240;  gov- 
ernment of,  240 ;  settlement  of,  240  ; 
telegraph  at,  241;  climate  of,  241; 
foreign  population  of,  241;  native 
population  of,  241  ;  roads  around, 
242  ;  native  dwellings  of,  242 ;  im- 
ports and  exports  of,  250,  271,  291  ; 
Japanese  troops  land  at,  444,  455. 

Chemulpo  Club,  the,  248. 

"Chen  Chung,"  the,  of  the  Chinese 
navy,  448. 

"Chen  Li,"  the,  of  the  Chinese  navy, 
448. 


Index 


5^5 


"  Chen  Nau,"  the,  of  the  Chinese  navy, 
448. 

"Chen  Pai,"  the,  of  the  Chinese  navy, 
44S. 

"  Chen  Pieu,"  the,  of  the  Chinese  navy, 
448. 

"Chen  Tung,"  the,  of  the  Chinese 
navy,  448. 

"Chen  Yuen,"  the,  of  the  Chinese 
navy,  448  ;  attacked  by  the  Japanese 
fleet,  453-455;  wrecked,  456;  taken 
as  a  prize  by  the  Japanese,  463. 

Cherry,  the,  in  Japan,  1 1 1 . 

Chesi,  the,  in  Korea,  271. 

Chestnut,  the,  in  Japan,  11 1. 

Cheyenne,  2. 

Chicago,  20. 

Chickweed,  the,  in  Japan,  in. 

"  Chill  Yuen,''  the,  of  the  Chinese 
navy,  448  ;  attacked  by  tlie  Japanese 
fleet,  453-455- 

"  Chikaramochi,"  the,  in  Japan,  206. 

Children,  in  Tokio,  84 ;  Japan  a  para- 
dise for,  Sy. 

Chili,  the  district  of,  465. 

China,  3  ;  the  Tartars  conquer,  123; 
130 ;  the  aerial  bridges  of,  132  ;  use  of 
seals  in,  214;  irrigation  in,  232 ;  agri- 
culture in,  233  ;  California  fruits  in- 
troduced into,  233;  Korea  declares 
itself  independent  of,  2S2;  boys  and 
girls  in,  310,  313 ;  schools  and  school- 
masters in,  313,  314  ;  homes  in,  314- 
318,  use  of  tobacco  in,  316;  the  poor 
in,  317;  opium-smoking  in,  317; 
opium  war  between  Great  Britain 
and,  31S;  pays  Japan  indemnity  for 
Formosan  murders,  330;  athletic 
sports  in,  354;  banking  in,  365:  the 
tobacco  industry  in,  365 ;  no  heredi- 
tary law  of  succession  in,  376;  the 
government  an  absolute  monarchy, 
377;  the  fundamental  laws  of,  377; 
the  Interior  Council  of,  277i  the  ad- 
ministrative boards  of,  377;  "solely 
under  the  guidance  of  Heaven,"  37S; 
the  attributes  of  the  Emperor,  378, 
379;  the  literary  aristocracy  of,  379; 
nobility  in,  379;  ranks  and  titles  in, 
380 ;  military  ranks  and  grades  in, 
380  ;  divisions  in  the  administration 
-of     affairs,    3S0 ;     filial    piety,     the 


strength  of,  3S0;  the  sacred  edict 
"Shing-gu,"  381;  severity  of  the 
laws  of,  381  ;  the  degraded  condition 
of  women  in,  38 1  ;  charities  in,  382  ; 
the  peculiarity  of  the  people  of,  382  ; 
an  undercurrent  of  distrust  in,  383; 
the  legal  coinage  of,  3S4;  early  his- 
tory of,  386,  3S7  ;  population  of,  387; 
general  appearance  of,  3S7  ;  emigra- 
tion from,  3S7  ;  agriculture  in,  388, 
389 :  cereal  and  vegetable  produc- 
tions of,  3S9  ;  agricultural  products 
of,  390  ;  the  manufacturing  industry 
of,  390 ;  immense  internal  traffic  of, 
391 ;  railroads  of,  392  ;  public  rev- 
enue of,  392 ;  foreign  residents  in, 
392 ;  principal  dependencies  of, 
392  ;  the  army  of,  393 ;  relies  too 
much  upon  her  vast  numbers,  393  ; 
the  navy  of,  393  ;  soil  and  climate  of, 
394  ;  water-ways  in,  394;  mineral 
resources  of,  394;  the  mental  capa- 
cities of  the  people  of,  394,  395  ; 
some  notable  improvements  in,  395  ; 
multi-millionaires  in,  396;  the  possi- 
bilities of,  396;  sends  aid  to  the  Ko- 
reans, 443  ;  refuses  Japan's  demands, 
444 ;  attempts  to  drive  the  Japanese 
from  Korea,  449  ;  declares  war  against 
Japan,  450;  signs  treaty  of  peace 
with  Japan,  466 ;  terms  of  the  treaty, 
466;  trade  between  Manila  and,  473, 
476. 

China,  the  Emperor  of,  see  K2iang-S!i. 

Chin-ai,  fourteenth  Mikado  of  Japan, 
2S7:  rebellion  against,  2S7  ;  death  of, 
287.' 

China  Sea,  the,  469. 

Chinese,  the,  in  Japan,  51,  64,  152;  fine 
agriculturists,  233 ;  invade  Korea, 
291  ;  forbearance  among,  298  ;  char- 
ities of,  30" ;  curious  customs  of, 
310;  their  homes,  314-31S;  their 
dress,  316;  a  well-to-do  people,  317; 
drive  out  the  Pepo-hohans,  324 ;  in 
Formosa,  325,329;  a  peculiar  peo- 
ple, 382 ;  their  regard  for  the  queue, 
383;  ceremonious  politeness  of,  383; 
a  nation  of  born  traders,  3S3;  have 
no  division  of  time,  3S5  ;  the  religion 
of,  385;  personal  characteristics  of, 
385 ;    their    religious    and    political 


Si6 


Index 


wars,  3S6;  patience  and  industry  of, 
TiSj;  their  respect  for  agriculture, 
3S8 ;  their  food,  391 ;  opposed  to  rail- 
ways, 392 ;  mental  capacities  of,  394 ; 
a  progressive  people,  395 ;  in  the 
Philippine  Islands,  437;  defeated  by 
the  Japanese  at  Seikwan,  450;  in 
Manila,  473. 

Chinese  army,  the,  393 ;  composition  of, 
393  ;  badly  organized,  393 ;  its  make- 
up in  the  Japan-China  war,  447;  at- 
tempts to  recapture  Haichang,  460. 

Chinese  boys,  310,  313  ;  sports  of,  313 ; 
education  of,  313,  334. 

Chinese  Charity  Hospital,  the,  at 
Shanghai,  299. 

Chinese  customs  service,  the,  319. 

Chinese  girls,  310,  313,  334. 

Chinese  homes,  description  of,  314-318. 

Chinese  houses,  described,  314,  315. 

Chinese  language,  the,  396-39S,  473. 

Chinese  navy,  the,  improvement  in, 
393  ;  its  make-up  in  the  Japan-China 
war,  447,  44S  ;  engages  the  Japanese 
fleet,  452-455  ;  surrenders  to  the 
Japanese,  463. 

Chinese  New  Year,  the,  314;  descrip- 
tion of  the  celebration,  373-375. 

Chinese  torpedo  fleet,  the,  destroyed  by 
the  Japanese,  462. 

Chinese  women,  fearful  condition  of, 
334;  their  styles  of  hair-dressing, 
339,  340 ;  the  mutilation  of  their 
feet,  340,  341  ;  their  dress,  341  ; 
Chinese  customs  concerning,  381, 
3S2. 

"  Ching  Yuen,"  the,  of  the  Chinese 
navy,  448  ;  attacked  by  the  Japanese, 
453-455  ;  sunk  by  the  Japanese,  463. 

Chinhai,  Chinese  city  of,  306  ;  a  port 
of  entry,  319. 

"  Chisakantana  "  (sword),  the,  215. 

Chiukiu-bori  decoration,  the,  in  Japan, 
213. 

"  Chiyoda,"  the,  of  the  Japanese  navy, 
description  of,  1S9  ;  445,  446;  attacks 
the  Chinese  fleet,  452-455. 

"Chi  Yuen,"  the,  of  the  Chinese  navy, 
448;  attacked  by  the  Japanese,  453- 
455  ;  rams  the  "Chao  Yuen,"  454. 

"  Chokai,"  the,  of  the  Japanese  navy, 
445.  446- 


"  Chori,"  the,  in  Japan,  205. 

"  Choson,"  see  Korea. 

"  Choson,"  the,  of  the  Korean  navy, 
284. 

Christianity,  the  extinction  in  Japan 
of,  160;  revived  in  Japan,  192;  its 
progress  in  Japan,  195  ;  200. 

Christian  martyrs,  the,  in  Japan,  160. 

Chrysanthemums,  80,  iii;  the  Im- 
perial, at  Tokio,  1 14-123. 

Chu-kiang  River,  the,  China,  412. 

Ch'un,  Prince,  of  China,  376. 

Chung,  Queen,  the  temple  and  tomb  of, 
in  Seoul,  256. 

Church  of  Santo  Domingo,  the,  at 
Manila,  425. 

Church  of  the  Sacred  Heart,  the,  at 
Manila,  425. 

Chusan,  the  island  of,  China,  319. 

Chusan  group  of  islands,  the,  China, 
306. 

Cigar  manufacture,  in  Manila,  426,  438. 

Cingalese,  the,  at  Hong-kong,  402,  403. 

"  City  of  Tokio,"  the  steamer,  409. 

Civic  Guard,  the,  at  Manila,  506. 

Clerke,  monument  to,  39. 

Cliff  Rock,  440. 

Clog-maker,  a  Japanese,  142. 

Cloisonne  ware,  French,  219;  manu- 
facture of,  219. 

Club  Germania,  the,  at  Hong-kong, 
404. 

Coal  mines,  in  Japan,  178. 

Cobbler,  the  Chinese,  370. 

Cochin-China,    Chinese   emigrants    in, 

3S7- 
Coe,  Isaac,  405. 
Coghlan,    J.    B.,    in  command   of   the 

"  Raleigh  "  in  the  battle  of  Cavite, 

491. 
Commander  Islands,  the,  28. 
"  Concepcion,"  Maghallans'  ship,  472. 
"  Concord,"  the  U.  S.  S.,  in  the  battle 

of   Cavite,    4S4,   4S8 ;    destroys    the 

"  Isla  de  Mindanao,"  4S9,  491,  504. 
Confucianism,  195. 
Confucian    temple,    the,    at     Canton, 

China,  356  ;  description  of,  356. 
Confucius,  the  works  of,  269,  2S3,  313, 

314,  377,  37S,  379.  3S6,  3^^- 
Consulates,  the,  at  Yokohama,  60. 
Cook,  Captain,  13,  39. 


Ind 


ex 


5^7 


Coolies,  Japanese,  50,  So,  &y,  207  ; 
Chinese,  232,  3S3,  402,  406,  430 ; 
Korean,  249  ;  description  of,  249. 

Cooper,  tlie  Japanese,  151. 

Copper  Island,  28,  36. 

Corea,  see  Korea. 

Corregidor,  the  Gibraltar  of  the  Philip- 
pines, 4S5 ;  the  batteries  of,  fire  upon 
the  American  fleet,  4S5  ;  the  forts 
surrender  to  the  American  fleet,  4S9, 
490;   49S. 

'•  Corvvin,"  tlie,  26. 

Cosmopolitan  Dock,  the,  at  Kowloon, 
408. 

Cossacks,  41,  43,  173. 

Cotton,  in  Japan,  iii  ;  in  Korea,  2S5. 

Council  Bluffs,  2. 

Court,  a  Chinese,  360,  361. 

Crematory,  a  Japanese,  17S-1S0. 

Crimean  War,  the,  39. 

Criminals,  Chinese,  359. 

Crow,  the,  in  Japan,  in. 

Cycods,  the,  in  Japan,  iii. 

D 

Dagupan,  430. 

"Dai  Butsu,"  67,  69;  description  of 
the  great  statue  of,  70,  71. 

"  Dai  Koku,"  the  temple  of,  75. 

Damascening,  in  Japan,  216. 

Damio  road,  the  old,  69. 

Damios,  the,  feudal  lords  in  Japan, 
185,  187  ;  the  fall  of,  1S7. 

Dancing-girls,  Japanese,  131. 

Dandelion,  the,  in  Japan,  in. 

Dauzaemon,  power  of,  207,  20S. 

Davilla,  Basalio  Agustin,  governor-gen- 
eral of  the  Philippines,  extraordinary 
proclamation  of,  4S0-484  ;  escapes  to 
Hong-kong,  506. 

Deception  Bay,  Korea,  275,  276. 

Deep  Bay,  China,  400. 

Deer,  in  Unalaska,  16. 

Deer  Island,  Korea,  274. 

"  Deified  Rocks,"  the.  at  Amoy,  China, 
332- 

Deshema,  the  fan-shaped  island  of, 
Japan,  163  ;  the  Dutch  prison-houses 
on,  163,  165,  173. 

Despujolo,  General,  governor  of  the 
Philippines,  475  ;  recalled,  475. 

Dewey,  Admiral  George,  477  ;  instruc- 


tions from  Secretary  Long  to,  484, 
491  ;  his  note  to  Jaudenes,  502;  his 
reply,  503 ;  demands  the  surrender 
of  the  Philippines,  505. 

Divers,  44. 

Dock,  the,  in  Japan,  in. 

Doctor,  the  Japanese,  144,  216. 

Dodd's  Range,  Formosa,  320. 

Dogs,  37  ;  at  Kamtchatka,  43,  45. 

"  Don  Antonio  de  Ulloa,"  the  Span- 
ish vessel  in  the  battle  of  Cavite,  486; 
sunk,  490. 

Dominican  Order,  the,  in  the  Philip- 
pines, 474. 

"Don  Juan  de  Austria,"  the  Spanish 
cruiser,  in  the  battle  of  Cavite,  486  ; 
burned,  490,  495. 

Dougherty,  Father,  at  Manila,  506. 

"  Douglas,"  the  S.  S.,  408. 

Douin,  2x6. 

Ducks,  in  Unalaska,  16,  44. 

Dutch,  the,  131  ;  allowed  to  trade  with 
Japan,  163;  imprisoned  in  Japan, 
163 ;  beloved  by  the  Pepo-hohans, 
324 ;  discover  Formosa,  329  ;  build 
the  fort  "Zelaiidia,"  329;  driven  off 
by  the  Tartars,  329 ;  in  Canton, 
China,  2)13  i  intrigue  against  the 
Jesuits,  426 ;  jealous  of  the  Philip- 
pines, 432. 

Dutchman's  Bay,  15. 

Dyer,  N.  M.,  in  command  of  the  "  Bal- 
more"  in  the  battle  of  Cavite,  491. 


Earget,  the,  in  Japan,  in. 

Earthquakes,  Japan  a  land  of,  in, 
112  ;  in  Manila,  424,  435. 

Eastern  Archipelago,  the,  Chinese  emi- 
grants in,  387. 

Eastern  Sea,  the,  156,  320. 

Eastern  Siberia,  the  province  of,  44, 
320. 

East  India  Company,  the,  343,  373. 

East  Indies,  the,  413,  438. 

Eastport,  Maine,  22. 

Ecclesiastical  department,  the,  in  Japan, 
186. 

Education,  in  Cliina,  395. 

"  Egg  Island,"  13. 

Eichizen,  2S7. 


Si8 


Index 


"  Eight  Banners,"  troops  of  the,  China, 

393- 
"El  Correo,"  the  Spanish  gunboat,  in 

the  battle   of   Cavite,   4S7 ;  burned, 

490. 
El   Fraile  Rock,  the  batteries  of,  fire 

upon  the   American  fleet,  485 ;  490, 

49S. 
Elm,  the,  in  Japan,  no. 
Empress  Dowager,  the,  of  China,  376, 

377- 
English,  the,  in  Japan,  64. 
English  Club,  the,  at  Manila,  431. 
Enoshema,  Japan,  69,  70,   71. 
Escalto,  the,  422. 
Escudera,  F.,  in  command  of  the  "El 

Correo  "  in  the  battle  of  Cavite,  490. 
Estanga,    J.   M.,   in  command  of   the 

"Villa    Lobas"'    in    the    battle    of 

Cavite,  491. 
"  Eta,"  the,  in  Japan,  205,  20S. 
Europeans,    at    Hong-kong,    402 ;    in 

the  Philippine  Islands,  437. 
Execution,  a  Chinese,  367. 
Executive  Council,  the,  in  Japan,  186  ; 

its  nine  departments,  186. 

F 

Faience,  Japanese,  enamel,  221,  224, 

"  Fan-tan,"  the  Chinese  game  of,  360. 

"  Farallon,"  the,  26. 

Farmer,  the  Chinese,  3S8,  3S9. 

Feast  of  Lanterns,  the,  in  Japan,  169; 
described,  169;  in  China,  385. 

Fenghuanchung,  General  Tatsumi 
enters,  458. 

Feng-shang,  Formosa,  326. 

Feng-tien,  ceded  to  Japan,  but  re- 
turned to  China,  466. 

Fenhugangen,  458. 

Feudalism,  in  Japan,  wiped  out  by 
the  Emperor,  123. 

Filigree-work,  Chinese,  365. 

Finch,  the,  in  Japan,  iii. 

Firemen,  Japanese,  193. 

"Fire  Mountain,"  see  Ho-san. 

First  California  Infantry,  the,  at 
Manila,  492. 

Fish,  44;  in  Japan,  166;  in  China,  235, 
306;    in    Korea,    2S7;    in    Formosa, 

329- 
Fisher  Island,  465. 


Five  Genii,  the  Temple  of,  at  Canton, 
China,  356. 

Five  Hundred  Genii,  the  Temple  of, 
at  Canton,  China,  354. 

Flat  Mount,  46. 

Flattery,  Cape,  7. 

"  Flower-boats,"  in  China,  318. 

Flowers,  wild,  in  Unalaska,  16,  21;  28. 

Fo-kien,  the  province  of  China,  333. 

Fo-kien,  the  Strait  of,  320. 

Fong-nai-fu,  Korea,  275. 

Ford,  John  D.,  work  at  the  Baltimore 
Manual  Training  School,  i  ;  ordered 
to  San  Francisco,  i ;  doing  pioneer 
work,  I ;  farewell  dinner  tendered  to, 
2 ;  at  the  Mare  Island  Navy  Yard, 
3;  joins  the  U.  S.  S.  "Alert,"  3; 
starts  on  his  cruise,  5  ;  the  ship's 
company,  6 ;  arrives  at  Victoria,  8- 
11;  at  sea,  11;  arrives  at  Iliuliuk, 
13,  34;  among  the  Aleutian  Islands, 
13-22;  a  burial  at  sea,  22,  23; 
cruising  in  Behring  Sea,.  24-37;  after 
illegal  sealers,  24 ;  at  the  Pribyloff 
Islands,  28 ;  a  luimorous  incident, 
2ii ;  Unalaska  to  Kamtchatka,  Si- 
beria, 34-37;  crossing  the  meridian, 
35  ;  a  tradition,  35;  at  Petropaulski, 
36;  on  passage  to  Japan,  46-50 ;  at 
Yokohama,  51-75  ;  at  Tokio,  76-123  ; 
a  visit  to  the  mortuary  temples  of 
the  Shoguns  at  Sheba,  94-105;  a 
visit  to  the  imperial  chrysanthemums, 
114-123;  at  Kobe,  Japan,  124-152, 
at  Osaka,  153-159;  at  Nagasaki, 
159-181;  at  Moji,  181-184  ;  bound 
for  Chefoo,  227  ;  at  Chefoo,  231-235  ; 
a  trip  to  Korea,  237-250  ;  a  visit  to 
the  Korean  Governor,  244 ;  in 
Chelto,  Korea,  262 ;  at  Shanghai, 
Cliina,  293  ;  at  Ningpo,  China,  306 ; 
at  Amoy,  China,  331  ;  at  Swatow, 
China,  336  ;  at  Canton,  China,  344  ; 
a  family  of  lepers,  346  ;  at  Hong- 
kong, China,  399;  at  Macao,  China, 
411;  at  Manila,  418;  at  home 
again,  440  ;  on  board  the  U.  S.  S. 
"  Baltimore,"  479. 

Foo-Chow,  China  opened  to  foreign 
trade,  31S;  393. 

Foreman,  on  the  power  of  the  Friars 
in  the  Philippines,  475. 


Index 


519 


Formosa,  the  island  of,  112,  320;  loca- 
tion of,  320  ;  mountains  of,  320  ;  its 
natural  divisions,  320;  its  forma- 
tion, 320  ;  enchanting  scenery  on, 
323  ;  origin  of  its  name,  323  ;  vege- 
tation and  climate  of,  323;  the  three 
classes   of  inhabitants   of,   325 ;  the 


aborisrines    of, 


the     Chinese 


portion  of,  326  ;  important  towns  of, 
326 ;  population  of,  326  ;  the  work 
of  the  elements  in,  326  ;  exports  and 
imports  of,  329;  the  fauna  of,  329; 
its  coal  fields,  329;  early  history 
of,  329 ;  dangerous  coast  of,  330 ; 
early  ferocity  of  its  people,  330 ; 
development  of  the  resources  of, 
330  ;  ceded  to  Japan,  466,  467. 

Foundling  Hospital,  the,  at  Canton, 
China,  363. 

Fourteenth  Regular  Infantry,  at 
INIanila,  491. 

Foxes,  in  Unalaska,  16;  in  Kam- 
tchatka,  43. 

France,  requests  Japan  not  to  occupy 
Port  Arthur,  466. 

Franciscan  Order,  the,  in  the  Philip- 
pines, 474. 

French,  the,  victorious  over  the  Rus- 
sians at  Petropaulski,  39 ;  capture 
and  occupy  Canton,  China,  346. 

French  concession,  the,  at  Shanghai, 
295,  296. 

Friars,  the,  in  the  Philippines,  474 ; 
the  actual  rulers  of  the  Philippines, 
474 ;  the  struggle  between  the 
governors  and,  475. 

Fruit-packing,  at  Honan,  Canton,  371. 

Fruits,  Korean,  285. 

Fu,  the  Japanese,  1S6. 

Fuensen,  Korea,  291. 

Fuhkin,  China,  307. 

Fujisan,  see  Fujiyama. 

Fujiyama,  51,  55,  84. 

Fukiagu,  Japan,  bamboo-grove  at,  iiS. 

Funerals,  Japanese,  171,  172;  Chinese, 

353- 

Fungchow,  China,  392. 

Fung-fai,  the,  Formosa,  329. 

Funghai,  Chinese  city  of,  306,  319; 
occupied  by  the  British,  319  ;  occu- 
pied by  the  allied  forces,  3:9. 

Fur-trade,  the,  8. 


Fu-san,  Korea,  271  ;  description  of, 
274;  royal  storehouses  at,  274; 
Japanese  settlement  at,  274 ;  police 
of,  274;  population  of,  274;  harbor 
of,  275;  climate  of,  275;  trade  of, 
275 ;  291  ;  Japanese  troops  at,  444, 
452. 

"  Fuso,"  the,  of  the  Japanese  navy, 
description  of,  1S9;  445,  446  ;  attacks 
the  Chinese  fleet,  452-455. 

Fwo-tre-tia,  the  town  of,  Formosa, 326. 


G 


Gambrinus,  75. 

"  Gaunin,"  the,  in  Japan,  206. 

Geese,  in  Unalaska,  16. 

"Geisha,"  the,  131. 

"  General  Alova,"  the  Spanish  boat, 
captured  in  the  battle  of  Cavite, 
491. 

"  General  Lezo,"  the  Spanish  gunboat, 
in  the  battle  of  Cavite,  487  ;  burned, 
491. 

Gen-san,  Korea,  271  ;  description  of, 
271  ;  population  of,  271  ;  houses  of, 
271;  market  at,  272;  the  Japanese 
in,  273;  the  Chinese  Consulate  in, 
273;  the  foreign  settlement  at,  273; 
produce  of,  273  ;  exports  and  imports 
of,    273  ;    Japanese   troops   at,    444, 

451.  452- 
Germans,  the,  in  Japan,  51,  64. 
Germany,  igi. 
Germany,    the    Emperor   of,    requests 

Japan   not  to   occupy    Port   Arthur, 

466. 
"  Gibraltar  of  Japan,"  the,  see  Shimo- 

7toseki,  the  Straits  of. 
Gifu,  the  prefecture  of,  in  Japan,  112, 

113- 

Ginseng,  in  Korea,  286. 
Giobu-Nashiji  decoration,  the,  in  Japan, 

212. 
Glass  ware,  Chinese,  355. 
"  Glenartney,"  the  S.  S.,  408. 
Goa.  413,  414. 
"Gog  and   Magog,"    in   the  O'Sueva 

Temple,  164. 
Golden  Gate,  the,  5. 
Golden-rod,  the,  in  Japan,  iii. 
Gorobachi,  223. 


520 


Ind 


ex 


Gorohichi,  223. 

Goto  family,  the,  famous  Japanese 
metal-workers,  216. 

Grand  Hotel,  the,  at  Yokohama,  56, 59. 

Grand  Island,  2. 

Granger,  2. 

Great  Britain,  192;  opium  war  be- 
tween China  and,  318,  438;  issues  a 
Proclamation  of  Neutrality,  479,  480. 

"Great  Buddha,"  the,  see  Dai  Biiisu. 

Green,  Brigadier-General,  in  the  attack 
on  Fort  Malate,  504. 

Green-ginger  industry,  the,  at  Honan, 
Canton,  371. 

Green-grocer's  shop,  Japanese,  65. 

Green  River,  2. 

Gridley,  C.  V.,  in  command  of  the 
"  Olympia  "  in  the  battle  of  Cavite, 
491. 

Guerra,  S.  M.,  in  command  of  the 
"  Marques  del  Duero,"  in  the  battle 
of  Cavite,  491. 

Guild-hall,  the,  at  Canton,  China,  354. 

Guri-lac  decoration,  the,  in  Japan,  213. 


H 


Hachimiu,  the  Eight-bannered 
Buddha,  2S8. 

Hachiman,  the  Japanese  war-god,  70. 

Hachiman,  the  temple  of,  at  Eno- 
shema,  Japan,  69,  70 ;  at  Hyogo- 
Kobe,  134. 

"  Hachitataki,"  the,  in  Japan,  206. 

Haichang,  458  ;  captured  and  occupied 
by  the  Japanese,  459  ;  460  ;  the  Chi- 
nese attempt  to  recapture,  460  ;  463, 
464. 

Hair-dresser,  the  Japanese,  14S. 

Hakodate,  Japan,  192. 

Haku  Butsu  (great  bazaar),  tlie,  at 
Osaka,  Japan,  156. 

Half-breeds,  the,  in  the  Aleutian 
Islands,  21  ;  on  St.  George  Island, 
29  ;  at  Kamtchatka,  43  ;  173. 

Halsey,  James,  A.,  405. 

"  Hanashika,"  the,  in  Japan,  206. 

Han-ko,  Princess,  marries  the  Emperor 
of  Japan,  185. 

Hankow,  China,  392. 

Han-lin  ("  Great  College")  China,  377. 

Han  River,  the,  239,  251,  252,  279,336. 


Han-Yan,  see  Seoul. 

Happy  Valley,  the  Hong-kong,  Parsee 
cemetery  in,  404,  405,  406. 

Har-Chwang-Sze,  the,  at  Honan,  Can- 
ton, 369,  371  ;  description  of,  371. 

"  Harikari,"    the    (suicide),    in   Japan, 

139>  150.  215. 
"  Hataba,"  the,  at  Yokohama,  59. 
Hawaii,  469. 
"  Heavenly    Barrier,"'    the,   see    Woo- 

sutig. 
Heisoshima,  455. 
Henshiu,  Japan,  190. 
"  Hercules,"    the   Spanish   boat,   cap- 
tured in  tlie  battle  of  Cavite,  491. 
"  Hermit  nation,"  the,  see  Korea. 
Herring,  17,  44. 
"  Hetsui  "  (day  furnace),  the  Japanese, 

145. 
Heung-kiang  River,  the,  China,  412. 
Hiang-shang,  the  island  of,  China,  412. 
Hido-Vashi,  155. 
Hien  Fung,  see   Wcng  Tsitng  Hien, 

E»iferor. 
Hien-fung,  the  Korean  mountain.  279. 
Higashi    Hongwanji,    the    temple    ofj 

201. 
Higo  ware,  Japanese,  225. 
Hillside   graves   of   the   martyrs,    the, 

Japan,  161,  1S3. 
Hindoos,  at  Hong-kong,  402. 
"  Hinin,"  the,  in  Japan,  205,  20S. 
Hirado.  Japan,  165. 
Hirado,  tlie  Prince  of,  223. 
Hirado  kiln,  the,  in  Japan,  223. 
Hira-makiye  decoration,  the,  in  Japan, 

212. 
Hiroshima,  Japan,  a  military   district, 

18S. 
"Hiyei,"    the,  of  the   Japanese  navy, 

description  of,  189 ;  445,446;  attacks 

the   Chinese    fleet,    452-455  ;    badly 

damaged,  454. 
Hizen,  Japan,  165,  222,  2S7. 
Hizen  ware,  Japanese,  222. 
"  Hochidate,"    the,    of    the    Japanese 

navy,  445,  446 ;  attacks  the  Chinese 

fleet,  452-455  ;  becomes  the  flagship, 

455- 
Hokusai,   a   Japanese    lacquer-worker, 

214. 
Holland,  163. 


Ind 


ex 


521 


Honan,  China,  344,  359;  location  of, 
367  ;  industries  at,  367  ;  tea  hongs 
at,  367;  the  "temple  of  the  Ocean 
Banners  "  at,  371  ;  matting  factories 
at,  371  ;  the  green-ginger  and  fruit- 
packing  establishments  at,  371  ;  the 
public  flower-garden,  371. 

Hong-kong,  China,  3  ;  the  harbor  of, 
343;  Chinese  emigrants  in,  3S7;  the 
"  Alert  "  at,  399;  formation  of,  400  ; 
location  of,  400  ;  ceded  to  the  British, 
400  ;  government  of,  402 ;  the  Praya 
Road  at,  402  ;  the  Queen's  Road  at, 
402;  the  Happy  Valley  at,  406;  cem- 
eteries at,  406 ;  causes  of  its  impor- 
tance, 409  ;  scenery  at,  409 ;  not  a 
healthy  climate,  410;  population  of, 
410;  479. 

Hong-kong  Roads,  400,  407. 

Honolulu,  479. 

"  Hoocheno,"  iS. 

Hope  Dock,  Aberdeen,  407. 

Horse,  the  sacred  white,  at  Hyogo- 
Kobe,  Japan,  134,  135. 

Ho-san,  the  volcano,  Formosa,  320. 

Hospital  of  the  Imperial  University, 
the,  114. 

Hospital  of  the  ]\Iisericordi,  the,  at 
Macao.  412. 

"Hotel  junks,"  in  China,  31S. 

Household    gods,    Chinese,   315,   316, 

31?- 
Howeie,  the  town  of,  Formosa,  326. 
How    Qua,    the    richest    man  in   the 

world,  396. 
Hudson  Bay  Company,  the,  8. 
Human,    J.    I..,    in    command   of   the 

"  Isla  de    Luzon  "  in   the   battle  of 

Cavite,  490. 
Hu-mun   River,  the,  China,  343,  344, 

359,  3''^7- 

Hundred  and  one  steps,  the,  at  Yoko- 
hama, 52,  56. 

Hwang  Island,  456. 

Hydrangeas,  in  Japan,  in. 

Hyogo-Kobe,  Japan,  125;  description 
of,  126;  shipbuilding  at,  134;  152; 
harbor  of,  227  ;  2SS. 

I 

Idzuminada,  the,  Japan,  125. 
Ikegawa,  Japan,  75. 


Iliuliuk,  Unalaska,  the  "  Alert  "  at,  13, 

34  ;  description  of,  14. 
Ilo  llo,  the  city  of,  an  open  port,  470. 
"  Ilo  Ilo,"  the  Spanish  boat,  captured 

in  the  battle  of  Cavite,  491. 
Imari,  Japan,  165,  223. 
"  Immortalitie,'"  the  British  flagship,  at 

Manila,  504,  506. 
"  Imonshi,"  the,  in  Japan,  206. 
Imperial  Guard,  the  Japanese,  188  ;  at 

Kulung,  466. 
Imperial  tombs,  the,  Japan,  201,   202, 

203. 
Imperial  University,  the,  at  Tokio,  106, 

200. 
''  Imperieuse,"  H.  M.  S.,  40S. 
India,  51,  395,  402. 
Indians,  the,  7,  8,  19;  in  Japan,  64. 
Indian  villages,  7. 
Indio,  Fra  Jose,  on  Camoens,  414. 
Inku  cross-road,  the,  45S;  held  by  the 

Chinese,  460  ;  captured  by  the  Japa- 
nese, 464. 
Inland  Sea  of  Japan,  the,  124,  125,  127, 

T56,  227  ;  the  "  Wyoming"  in,  229. 
Inlaying,  in  Japan,  216. 
"  Inn  mawashi,"  the,  in  Japan,  206. 
Iiiouye,  Lieutenant,  465. 
"  Inro,"  the,  in  Japan,  214. 
Interior  Council,  the,    of  China,    Ti77  ; 

composition  of,  t,771   powers  of,  377. 
Interior    Department,   the,    in    Japan, 

1S6,  187. 
"  Iphigenia,"  the  British  vessel,  at  Ma- 
nila, 504,  506. 
Iron  ore,  in  China,  394. 
Iron-works,  Japanese,  154. 
"  Isla  de  Cuba,"  the  Spanish  cruiser,  in 

the  battle  of  Cavite,  48G;  sunk,  490, 
"Isla  de  Luzon,"  the  Spanish  cruiser, 

in  the  battle  of  Cavite,  486  ;   sunk, 

490. 
'•  Isla  de  Mindanao,"  the  Spanish  gun- 
boat, in   the  battle  of  Cavite,    486; 

destroyed  by  the   "Concord,"   489; 

burned,  491  ;  495,  496. 
Ise,  the  temple  of,  at  Vamato,  Japan, 

197. 
Isszakicho,  the,  at  Yokohama,  66. 
Isuruga,  Eichizen,  2S7. 
Itchije,  Prince,  185. 
Ito,  Admiral,  in  the  Japan-China  war, 


522 


Index 


452  ;  engages  tlie  Chinese  fleet,  453, 
455  ;  sails  for  VVei-Hai-Wei,  456, 
459  ;  the  Chinese  surrender  to,  463  ; 
sails  against  Formosa,  465. 
"  Itsukushima,"  the,  of  the  Japanese 
nav)',  description  of,  iSS,  1S9  ;  445, 
446 ;  attacks  the  Chinese  fleet,  452- 

455- 
lube  ware,  Japanese,  225. 
Ivory-carvers,  in  Japan,  210  ;  in  China, 


J 

Jadestones,  352. 

Japan,  3,  34,  46,  48,  64  ;  ship-building 
in,  72 ;  harvesting  rice  in,  73 ;  a 
paradise  for  the  aged  and  the  chil- 
dren, 87  ;  juvenile  acrobats  in,  88  ; 
the  "wandering"  candy  manufac- 
turer in,  89 ;  jugglers  in,  90 ;  the 
massage  doctor,  93;  troubadours  in, 
93;  the  official  religion  of,  105,  186; 
wonderful  growth  in  educational 
lines,  106;  the  people  of,  107;  wrest- 
ling in,  107-110;  the  flora  of,  no, 
III  ;  a  land  of  earthquakes,  in  ; 
birds  of.  Ill  ;  the  great  reforms  ac- 
complished by  the  Mikado  in,  122, 
123;  introduction  of  Buddhism  into, 
130;  railroad  in,  132,  192;  no  sad- 
ness to  be  seen  in,  139  ;  irrigation  in, 
140;  girls  and  women  in,  147;  the 
extinction  of  Christianity  in,  160; 
until  recently  an  absolute  monarchy, 

185  ;  the  ancient  law  of  succession 
in,  185;  women  rulers  of,  186;  re- 
ligious toleration  in,  186;  the  new 
constitution  proclaimed,  186:  ad- 
ministrative division  of  the  Empire, 

186  ;  restoration  of  the  nobility,  187  ; 
the  revenue  of,  1S7  ;  the  military  dis- 
tricts of,  188;  area  of,  190;  popula- 
tion of,  190;  geographical  division 
of,  190;  her  ports  opened  to  foreign 
trade  and  residence,  190  ;  value  of 
her  exports,  190 ;  new  treaties  of, 
191  ;  value  of  her  imports,  191;  her 
shipping,  191  ;  the  telegraph  and 
cable  in,  192;  the  postal  service  in, 
1 92;  religions  of,  192;  date  of  its 
history,  192;  Shintoism  in,  192-198; 
Buddhism  in,  198-201  ;  class  distinc- 


tions in,  201  ;  art  in,  20S-214;  use  of 
seals  in,  214;  exacts  indemnity  from 
China  for  Formosan  murders,  330; 
the  Chinese  in,  3S7 ;  almost  con- 
verted to  Christianity  by  the  Jesuits, 
426;  wages  war  against  the  Jesuits, 
426;  sends  troops  to  Korea,  443; 
prepares  for  war,  444 ;  her  demands 
refused  by  China,  444;  composition 
of  her  navy,  444 ;  protects  the  King 
of  Korea,  449;  declares  war  against 
China,  450;  a  naval  victory,  450  ; 
signs  treaty  of  peace  with  China, 
466 ;  terms  of  the  treaty,  466. 

Japan,  the  Emperor  of,  see  M»fsn- 
hito. 

Japan,  the  Empress  of,  see  Han-ko, 
Princess. 

Japan,  the  Sea  of,  278. 

Japan-China  War,  the,  443-468 ;  the 
treaty  of  peace,  466;  losses  of  life 
in,  467. 

Japanese,  the,  as  servants,  6  ;  51 ;  their 
love  of  the  beautiful,  80  ;  their  pa- 
tience in  horticulture.  So;  their  re- 
spect for  old  age  and  love  for 
children,  Z";  ;  behind  in  the  use  of 
common  toys,  88  ;  characteristics  of, 
107,  114;  native  homes  of,  141-146; 
their  love  of  bathing,  146;  their  con- 
siderations for  marriage,  149;  civili- 
zation of,  192;  their  abhorrence  of 
begging,  206  ;  not  fond  of  class  dis- 
tinction, 208  ;  their  artistic  tempera- 
ment, 208  ;  lead  the  world  in  bronzes, 
217;  their  fight  with  the  "Wyo- 
ming," 229;  pay  a  heavy  indemnity, 
229  ;  finest  agriculturists  in  the 
world,  233 ;  their  peaceful  landing 
in  Korea,  239,  240  ;  in  Korea,  241, 
249,  273;  the  respect  of  the  Koreans 
for,  270  ;  their  first  invasion  of  Korea, 
287;  at  Hong-kong,  402;  antago- 
nism in  Korea  to,  443. 

Japanese  army,  the,  organization  of, 
18S  ;  447  ;  composition  of,  447  ;  cap- 
tures Ping-yang.  452  ;  occupies  Pit- 
sewo,  455;  captures  Kinchan,  455; 
captures  Port  Arthur,  457  ;  captures 
Kiuliencheng,  438  ;  captures  Feng- 
huanchung,  458  ;  captures  Haichang, 
459 ;     attacks    Wei-Hai-Wei,    461 ; 


Index 


S^Z 


occupies  \\'ei-Hai-\Vei,  462  ;  captures 
Tapingsham,  463  ;  captures  Inku, 
464  ;  captures  Tienshwangtai,  464  ; 
captures  Makung,  465. 

Japanese  boys,  134. 

Japanese  girls,  147;  tlie  youth  of,  147; 
by  instinct  modest  and  polite,  147; 
education  of,  147;  the  dress  of,  14S  ; 
their  amusements,  14S  ;  their  mar- 
riages, 149;  their  weddings,  150, 
151  ;  their  obedience  to  their  hus- 
bands,  151. 

Japanese  hut,  the  ancient,  94. 

Japanese  Islands,  the,  320. 

Japanese  Naval  Arsenal,  the,  71. 

Japanese  navy,  the,  18S,  1S9;  compo- 
sition of,  444,  445  ;  defeats  the 
Chinese  fleet,  449,  450;  at  Ping- 
yang  Inlet,  452  ;  engages  the  Chinese 
fleet,  452-455  ;  at  Talienwan  Bay, 
456;  threatens  \Vei-Hai-\\'ei.  460; 
attacks  Wei-Hai-Wei,  401  ;  at 
Pachan  Island,  465;  in  full  control 
of  the  seas,  466. 

Japanese  Straits,  the,  274. 

Japanese  torpedo  boats,  462. 

Jaudenes,  General  Fermin,  at  Manila, 
502;  note  from  the  American  com- 
manders to,  502  ;  his  reply,  503. 

Java,  Chinese  emigrants  in,  387. 

Javanese,  the,  at  Hong-kong,  402. 

Jay,  the.  in  Japan,  iii. 

Jeuchuan,  Korean  town  of,  239 ;  its 
growth,  23q;  consulates  at,  239;  the 
rice-cleaning  steam  mill  at,  239 ; 
temple  at,  239;  tea-houses  in,  240; 
hotels  in,  240;  location  of,  240, 

Jesuits,  the,  make  trouble  in  Korea, 
271  ;  in  Macao,  .(.T4  ;  almost  convert 
Japan  to  Christianity,  426  ;  war 
waged  by  the  Japanese  against,  426; 
in  the  Philippine  Islands,  432,  435. 

Jeweller's  Guild,  the,  at  Shanghai,  300. 

Jews,  at  Hong-kong.  402. 

Jingu,  mother  of  Hachiman.  70. 

Jinrikisha,  the,  in  Japan,  59,  69,  76  ;  in 
Victoria,  406. 

Jinrikisha  men.  59:  description  of,  60; 
132. 

"  Jintochi  "  (sword),  the,  in  Japan,  216. 

Jito,  Emperor  of  Japan,  201,  202,  203. 

Jodo  Buddhists,  the,  in  Japan,  199. 


Joss-sticks,  Chinese,  298. 

Juan  de  Fuca,  the  Strait  of,  7,  8. 

Jugglers,  Japanese,  90. 

Juisen,  ita  Jcitckuait. 

Jungu  Koge,  leads  the  Japanese  army, 

287  ;   invades    Korea,    2S7 ;   temples 

dedicated  to,  2SS. 
Jungu  temple,  the,  Korea,  288. 
Junks,  Japanese,  72;  Chinese,  293. 
Junsen,  see  Jeuchuan. 


Ka-fri-ang,  the  village  of,  Formosa, 

325  ;  houses  of,  325. 
"  Kaga,"  the,  in  Japan,  133. 
"Kaimo,"  the,  of  the  Japanese  navy, 

445- 
Kaiping,    General    Nogi   enters,   460 ; 

4*^3  •  _ 

Kaiping  Coal  Company,  the,  392. 

■' Kaiserin  Augusta,"  the  German  flag- 
ship, at  Manila,  506. 

"  Kakemono  ''  (silk  scroll),  the,  Japan- 
ese, 143. 

Kakiyemon,  a  famous  Japanese  porce- 
lain worker,  222,  223,  225. 

Kalayama,  Admiral,  467. 

Kamada,  Japan,  75. 

Kamakma,  Japan,  67. 

Kamakura  Shoguns,  the,  in  Japan,  202, 
20S. 

Kameyarna  kiln,  the,  in  Japan,  223. 

■' Kami-no-michi,"  195. 

"  Kamlika,"  17. 

Kamtchadales,  43,  45. 

Kamtchatka,  Siberia,  34  ;  the  govern- 
ment of,  41  ;  dogs  at,  43,  45  ;  trade 
at,  43  ;  description  of,  44;  aboriginal 
tribes  of,  45 ;  population  of,  45  ;  sit- 
uation of,  45. 

Kamtchatka  River,  the,  44. 

Kan.^.gawa,  Japan,  75. 

Kaneiye,  the  creator  of  artistic  swords, 
216. 

"Kang,"  the,  in  Korea,  242,  283,  284, 
201. 

"  Kang  Chi,"  the,  of  the  Chinese  navy, 
448 ;  taken  as  a  prize  by  the  Japan- 
ese, 463. 

Kano  school  of  pottery,  the,  221. 

"  Kantana"  (sword),  the,  in  Japan,  215. 


524 


Index 


Karabukmo-no-Sukune,  rebels  against 
the  Emperor  of  Japan,  201. 

Katase,  the  beach  of,  71. 

Katsuma,  General,  in  the  Japan-China 
war,  464. 

Katsura.  General,  in  the  Japan-China 
war,  458. 

"  Katsuragi,"  the,  of  the  Japanese 
navy,  445,  446. 

"  Kawara-mono,"  the,  in  Japan,  206. 

Kawasaki,  Japan,  75. 

Kelung,  the  town  of,  Formosa,  326, 
329  ;  the  Japanese  in,  466,  467. 

Ken,  the  Japanese,  186. 

"Renin,"  the,  in  Japan,  202. 

Kenshaw  (governor),  the  Japanese,  173. 

Ken  Bay,  456, 

Keiizan,  a  famous  Japanese  porcelain- 
worker,  222,  225,  226. 

Ki-ai,  Formosa,  326. 

"  Kiaks"  (canoes),  17. 

"  Kilung,"  see  Formosa,  the  island  of. 

Kimono,  the,  in  Japan,  79,  132,  148, 
150. 

Kinai,  216. 

Kinchau,  captured  by  the  Japanese, 
455'  456  ;  460,  466. 

King,  Cape,  48. 

Kingtung,  Chinese  town  of,  319. 

"King  Yuen,"  the,  of  the  Chinese 
navy,  44S  ;  attacked  by  the  Japanese 
fleet,  453-455- 

Kinshin,  112. 

Kirko-Zan,  a  famous  Japanese  porce- 
lain-worker, 225. 

Kisbi,  a  Chinese  warrior,  281 ;  story  of, 
281. 

Kitaze,  see  Kisbi. 

"  Kitsune-tsukai,"  the,  in  Japan,  206. 

Kiuezan  ware,  Japanese,  225. 

Kiuliencheng,  458  ;  captured  by  the 
Japanese,  458. 

Kiushiu,  the  island  of,  Japan,  159,  190, 
287. 

Kiyowezer,  Japan,  224. 

Kobe,  Japan,  the  "Alert"'  at,  124; 
description  of,  125  ;  the  "  Falls  "  at, 
125  ;  the  foreign  settlement  at,  125  ; 
the  government  of,  125  ;  the  Bund 
at,  125;  126,  127;  the  Imperial 
arsenal  at,  134  ;  trade  at,  139  ;  native 
homes    at,     141   146 ;    churches   in. 


152;  population  of,  152;  foreign 
residents  of,  152;  newspapers  in, 
152;  the  harbor  of,  152  ;  imports  and 
exports  of,  152,  192. 

Koga,  Japan,  224. 

"  Kogai  "  (dagger),  the,  in  Japan,  215. 

"  Kogo  nuke,"  the,  in  Japan,  206. 

Ko-kaido  Railway,  the,  in  Japan,  133. 

"Kokatanka"  (dagger),  the,  in  Japan, 
215. 

Kokun  Islands,  the,  451. 

Komei  leune.  Emperor,  1S5. 

"  Komihi,"  the,  in  Japan,  202. 

"  Konang-fu,"  the,  in  China,  380. 

"  Kongo,"  the,  of  the  Japanese  navy, 
description  of,  1S9;  445,  446. 

Korausha   (bazaar),  the,  at  Nagasaki, 
Japan,  164. 

Korea,  3,  134,  192  ;  use  of  seals  in, 
214;  invaded  by  the  Prince  of  Sat- 
suma,  220;  230,  239;  the  peaceful 
landing  of  the  Japanese  in,  240 ; 
mourning  customs  in,  246-248;  cur- 
rency of,  249;  mail-service  of,  249; 
the  Royal  troops  of,  255;  desolate 
approaches  to,  260;  the  people  of, 
26S ;  education  in,  268 ;  Buddhist 
priests  in,  269  ;  the  religion  of,  269  ; 
the  government  of,  271,  282;  de- 
scription of  the  country,  278  ;  rivers 
of,  279;  climate  of,  279;  scarcity  of 
fuel  in,  2S0 ;  subdivision  of,  281  ; 
Roman  Catholic  priests  in,  281; 
cereals  and  vegetables  in,  285  ;  ac- 
count of  the  first  Japanese  invasi(  n 
of,  2S7  ;  later  invasions  of,  291;  the 
"  Hermit  nation,"  291  ;  treaty  be- 
tween the  United  States  and,  291  ; 
imports  and  exports  of,  292;  popula- 
tion of,  292  ;  the  Chinese  in,  3S7 ; 
opposition  to  the  Japanese  in,  443; 
rebellion  in,  443  ;  calls  on  China  for 
help,  443;  451;  surrendered  to 
Japan,  466. 
Korea,  the  King  of,  see  Li- Fin. 
Korean  Channel,  the,  278,  280. 
Korean  ladies,  the,  264. 
Koreans,  the,  '70  ;  life  of,  243  ;  charac- 
teristics of,  243;  personal  appear' 
ance  of,  262,  263,  28 1;  their  dress, 
263,  264 ;  285 ;  the  dress  of  the 
nobility,    265  ;  live   close   to  nature. 


Index 


525 


26S  ;  have  no  domestic  life,  269; 
their  respect  for  tiie  Japanese,  270; 
the  Jesuits  give  trouble  to,  271; 
suffer  from  lack  of  fuel,  2S0  ;  their 
clothing,  2S0  ;  a  brave  people,  2S1  ; 
able  military  engineers,  2S2  ;  their 
opposition  to  foreigners,  283  ;  their 
language,  2S3 ;  their  houses,  283 ; 
their  veneration  for  age,  2S4  ;  their 
customs  in  hair-dressing,  2S4;  home- 
less wanderers,  291  ;  their  poverty, 
292;  at  Hong-kong,  402. 

Korean  troops,  the,  255,  256. 

Koria,  see  Korea. 

Korianski,  Mount,  46. 

Korlangsoo,  the  island  of,  Amoy, 
China,  331  ;  foreign  residences  at, 
335  ;  formation  of,  335  ;  the  ''  Lam- 
potoh  Temple"  at,  336. 

Kouricks,  the,  45. 

Kovvloon,  China,  343  ;  description  of, 
407  ;  dr)'-docks  at,  407-409. 

"Kowshing,"  the  Chinese  transport, 
449;  sunk  by  the  "  Naniwa,"  450. 

"  Kuang  Kia,"  the,  of  the  Chinese 
navy,  44S  ;  attacked  by  the  Japanese 
fleet,  453-455  ;  1051,455. 

"Kuang  Ping,"  the,  of  the  Chinese 
navy,  44S  ;  attacked  by  the  Japanese 
fleet,  453-455;  taken  as  a  prize  by 
the  Japanese,  463. 

Kuang-Sii.  Emperor  of  China,  376; 
proclamation  of  his  accession,  376  ; 
his  marriage,  377  ;  the  spiritual  as 
well  as  the  temporal  head  of  his 
people,  ■},•]•]•.,  absolute  in  power,  37S; 
attributes  of,  37S  ;  encourages  agri- 
culture, 388. 

"Kuang  Yi,"  the,  of  the  Chinese 
navy,  44S ;  attacked  and  wrecked  by 
the  "  Naniwa,"  449. 

Kuhlan,  sea-fight  off.  405. 

Kuiu,  the  Chinese  in  force  at,  466. 

Kuing-Kei,  the  province  of,  Korea, 
239,  252. 

Kujormori,  the  Japanese  hero,  monu- 
ment to,  131. 

Kumamoto,  Japan,  17S;  a  military 
district,  18S. 

Kural  Islands,  the,  122,  320. 

'•  Kurisowo,"  the,  36. 

Kurnma  Zeushichi,  power  of,  207. 


Kusumski    Masashegi,    tlie   temple  at 

Kobe,  dedicated  to,  132. 
Kutana,  in  Koga,  224. 
Kutana  ware,  Japanese,  224. 
Kuwabara,    the    celebrated    decorator, 

221. 
Kwang-tung,    the   province   of,   China, 

yi^^_  345- 
Kwanin,  the  Japanese  goddess  of  the 

sea,  S3,  84. 
Kwanin,  the  temple  of,  S3,  84,  85. 
"  Kwanko,"  the,  in  Japan,  202. 
Kwa)'eus,  455. 
Kyoto,  Japan,   133,  1S5,  201,  222,  224, 

22;. 


La  Concha,  J.  de,  in  command  of  the 
■'Don  Juan  de  Austria"  in  the 
battle  of  Cavite,  490. 

Lacquer  ware,  Chinese,  355  ;  com- 
pared with  the  Japanese,  355. 

Lacquer  ware,  Japanese,  213  ;  com- 
pared with  the  Chinese,  355. 

Lacquer-workers,  in  Japan,  213. 

Ladrone  Islands,  the  112,  400;  Ma- 
gliallans  at,  472. 

Laiyang  Koad,  tl;e,  464. 

"  Lai  Yuen,"  the,  of  the  Chinese  navy, 
448  ;  attacked  by  the  Japanese  fleet, 
453-455  ;  sunk  by  the  Japanese,  462. 

La  Luna  promenade,  the,  at  Manila, 
42S. 

Lamma,  the  island  of,  410. 

Lamont  Dock,  Aberdeen,  407. 

"  Lampotoh  Temple,"  the,  at  Amoy, 
China,  336,  337. 

"  Land  of  the  Morning  Calm,"  the,  see 
Korea. 

La  Perouse,  the  navigator,  monument 
to,  39. 

Laramie,  2. 

Lasisi  Point  Battery,  the,  at  Manila 
Bay,  490,  49S. 

"  La  Trinidad,"  Maghallans'  ship,  472. 

Laurel,  the,  in  Japan,  no. 

Legaspi,  Miguel  de,  sails  for  the  Phil- 
ippines, 473  :  completes  annexation 
of  the  Philippines  to  Spain,  473  ;  at 
Cebu,  473  ;  seizes  Maynila,  473,  476. 

Leper's  Village,  the,  at  Cantt)n,  China, 


526 


Index 


Leyte,  the  island  of,  470, 

Lhassa,  393. 

Liao  River,  the,  464. 

Liaoyang,  459;  the  Chinese  at,  460. 

Li-Fin,  King  of  Korea,  254;  palace  of, 
254,  255;  280,  282;  declares  his  in- 
dependence of  China,  282  ;  protected 
by  the  Japanese,  449. 

Li  Hung  Chang,  394. 

Li  Ma  Han,  lands  at  Manila,  477 ;  de- 
feated, 477. 

Lingking,  the  island  of,  461;  batteries 
on,  463. 

Li  Pu,  the,  China,  377. 

Lisbon,  413.  414. 

Long,  Secretary  John  D.,  instructions 
to  Admiral  Dewey  from,  474. 

Longevity,  the  Temple  of,  at  Canton, 
China,  355. 

Loochoo  Islands,  the,  186. 

Locjiiat,  the,  in  Japan,  iii. 

Lotus  fields,  in  Japan,  no,  in,  173. 

"  Louis,  Fussy  little,"  59. 

Luenta  battery,  the,  at  Manila,  49S ; 
evacuated  by  the  Spanish,  504. 

Luisi,  China,  392. 

Luna,  Fort,  at  Manila,  490. 

Lu-Shew-kow,  see  Port  Li. 

"  Lusiad,"  the,  413,  414. 

Luzon,  the  island  of,  418,  470,  471. 

"  Lymoon  Pass,"  the,  399,  400,  411. 


M 


Macac),  China,  411;  harbor  of,  412; 
location  of,  412;  Portuguese  forts  at, 
412;  the  Praya  Grande  at,  412;  the 
Church  of  St.  Paul  at,  412  ;  the 
Hospital  of  the  Misericordi,  412; 
the  grotto  of  Camoens  at,  412  ;  the 
Portuguese  form  a  settlement  at, 
414;  royal  governors  of,  414,  415; 
considered  a  de  facto  colony,  415; 
occupied  by  the  British,  416;  the 
people  of,  416;  the  trade  of,  416;  a 
free  port,  416. 

Macao  passage,  the,  China,  347. 

MacArthur,  Brigadier-General  at  Ma- 
nila, 504. 

"  McCuIloch,"  the  U.  S.  revenue 
steamer,  in  the  battle  of  Cavite,  484, 
486. 


McDougal,  the  gallant,  in  the  Straits 
of  Shimonoseki,  229;  his  fight  with 
the  Japanese,  229. 

Mafonso  Mountains,  the,  41S. 

Magellan,  see  Maghallans,  Her- 
nando de. 

Maghallans,  Hernando  de,  monument 
at  Manila  to,  423  ;  becomes  a  Spanish 
subject,  472  ;  sails  on  a  voyage  of  dis- 
covery, 472  ;  arrives  at  Rio  Janeiro, 
472  ;  at  the  Ladrone  Islands,  472  ; 
at  Mindanao,  472 ;  at  the  Butuano 
River,  472  ;  celebrates  the  first  mass 
in  the  Philippines,  472;  takes  pos- 
session of  the  Philippines  for  Spain, 
472  ;  at  Cebu,  472  ;  killed  at  Magton, 
472. 

Maghallans,  the  Strait  of,  472. 

Magton,  the  island  of,  472  ;  Maghallans 
killed  on,  472. 

Mahomet,  471. 

Mahometan  mosque,  the,  at  Canton, 
China,  362. 

Mahometans,  in  China,  395  ;  at  Hong- 
kong, 402. 

"  Maimai,"  the,  in  Japan,  206. 

"  Makooshin,  "  Mount,  12. 

"Ma  kora "  (wooden  pillow),  the,  in 
Japan,  14S. 

Makung,  captured  by  the  Japanese, 
465. 

Malate,  Manila,  504. 

Malate,  Fort,  the,  at  Manila,  500,  502, 
504 ;  destroyed  by  the  American 
fleet,  504. 

Malays,  in  Formosa,  325 ;  at  Hong- 
kong, 402  ;  in  the  Philippine  Islands, 
471. 

Mallow,  the,  in  Japan,  in. 

"  Mamori  "  (stiletto),  the.  in  Japan, 
216. 

Mamori  dockyards,  the,  393. 

"  Mana-ita,"  the  Japanese,  145. 

Manchuria,  278,  282,  392,  451  ;  the 
Japanese  invasion  of,  458-463 ;  the 
spring  campaign  in,  463,  467. 

Manchus,   the,    in    the   Chinese  army^ 

393- 

"Mandarin,"  the  term,  380. 

Mandarins'  Tea-garden,  the,  at  Shang- 
hai, 300. 

Manila,  Philippine  Islands,  location  ofj 


Index 


527 


418;  division  of,  421;  422;  streets 
of,  422  ;  the  Governor's  palace  at, 
422;  La  Luna  promenade,  422,  42S; 
the  monument  to  Magellan,  423 ; 
earthquakes  at,  424;  the  statue  of 
Don  Carlos  IV'.,  424;  the  churches 
of,  425,  426,  427  ;  cigar  manufacture 
at,  426  ;  cemetery  at,  426  ;  the  San 
Miguel  drive,  42S  ;  the  Spaniards  at, 
429 ;  the  houses  of,  429  ;  the  dress  of 
the  women  of,  430 ;  the  English 
Club  at,  431  ;  amusements  at,  431  ; 
population  of,  437,  473  ;  newspapers 
of,  437  ;  its  beauties  not  appreciated, 
470 ;  seized  for  Spain  by  Legaspi, 
473  :  trade  between  China  and,  473  ; 
the  Chinese  in,  473;  the  arrival  of  a 
Chinese  or  Mexican  vessel  at,  476, 
477;  Li  Ma  Han  lands  at,  477;  the 
American  occupation  of,  491,  492; 
the  capture  by  the  Americans  of, 
500-507. 

"  Manila,"  the  Spanish  transport,  cap- 
tured in  the  battle  of  Cavite,  491. 

Manila,  the  Bay  of,  41S;  description 
of,  437;  the  American  fleet  in,  4S4, 
4S5. 

Manila   hemp,    439 ;    manufacture  of, 

439- 
Mapu,  Chinese  town  of,  240,  241. 
Mare  Island  Navy  Yard,  the,  3,  5. 
Mariveles,  496,  49S. 
"  Marques   del    Duero,"   the   Spanish 

gunboat,  in  the  battle  of  Cavite,  4S7; 

burned,  491. 
Marriages,  Japanese,  149;  Korean,  264. 
Massage  doctor,  the  Japanese,  93. 
Massey,  John,  405. 
Mateo  Mountains,  the,  41S. 
Matien  Pass,  459. 
"  Matsushima,"  the,  of  the   Japanese 

navy,  445,  446;  attacks  the  Chinese 

fleet,     452-455;     seriously    injured, 

454- 
Matting-factories,  at  Honan,  Canton, 

371- 
"  Maya,'"  the,  of   the   Japanese  navy, 

445,  446. 
Mayburn,  the  capital  of  the  Sultan  of 

Sulu,  471, 
Maynila,  see  Manila. 
Maynila,  the  King  of,  473. 


"  Medicine  men,"  the,  of  Korea,  282. 

Medicines,  Korean,  286. 

Meji,  the,  in  Japan,  208. 

Me-kang-shang,  Mount,  Formosa,  320. 

Melada,  216. 

Mengka,  the  town  of,  Formosa,  326. 

Merritt,  Major-Geueral  Wesley,  ar- 
rives at  Manila,  502  ;  his  note  to 
Jaiidenes,  502 ;  his  reply,  503 ;  de- 
mands the  surrender  of  the  Philip- 
pines, 505  ;  becomes  the  first  Ameri- 
can governor  of  the  Philippines,  505, 
506. 

"  Mestizos,"  the,  in  the  Pliilippine 
Islands,  435. 

Metal-work,  Chinese,  390. 

Metal-workers,  in  Japan,  210. 

Mexico,  3S9,  425,  469  ;  the  Philippines, 
dependencies  of,  475  ;  trade  between 
the  Philippines  and,  476. 

Mikados,  the,  supreme  heads  of  the 
Japanese  Empire,  1S5  ;  their  efforts 
to  depose  the  Shoguns,  185. 

"  Mikawa  mausai,"  the,  in  Japan,  206. 

Mikawa-uchi  ware,  Japanese,  223. 

"  Miko,"  the,  in  Japan,  206. 

Minato  River,  the,  Japan,  126,  132. 

Minatogawa  River,  the,  Japan,  135. 

Mindanao,  the  island  of,  470,  471 ;  Ma- 
ghallans  at,  472. 

Ming  dynastv,  the,  in  China,  2S5,  329, 

376. 
Mingo-no-Mikato,    the  principal   deity 

of  the  Shinto  faith,  195. 
Mino,  Japan,  204. 
Miochiu  family,  the,  famous  Japanese 

metal-workers,  216. 
Mir's  Bay,  4S0. 
Mistletoe,  the,  in  Japan,  iii. 
Mita,  Japan,  75. 
Mitchell,  tieorge,  405. 
"  Mohican,"  the,  26. 
Moji,   Japan,   178;  situation   of,    iSi  ; 

described,  181-184. 
Money-changers,  Chinese,  365. 
Mongolia,  392. 

Mongols,  the,  in  the  Chinese  army,  393. 
Monkden,  45S;  the  Chinese  in  force  at, 

466. 
Monkden  road,  the,  459. 
"  Monkey  Hill,"  Takow,  Formosa,  323. 
Monkshood,  the,  in  Japan,  iii. 


28 


Index 


"  Monocacy,"  the  old,  52. 

Monsoons,  330,  331,  332,  333. 

"  Monterey,"  the  U.  S.  vessel,  at  Ma- 
nila, 503,  504. 

Monto  Buddhists,  the,  in  Japan,  199. 

Montojo,  Admiral,  in  command  of  the 
Spanish  fleet  at  Cavite,  4SS  ;  wounded, 
4S8  ;  490,^  499. 

Montomachi,  the,  Kobe,  Japan,  139. 

Moon  Lake,  China,  307. 

Moors,  the,  413. 

Morikage,  at  Koga,  224  ;  death  of,  224. 

Moro  language,  the,  473. 

Mortuary  temples  of  the  Shoguns,  the, 
at  Sheba,  91  ;  description  of,  94-105. 

Mulberry,  the,  in  Japan,  iii ;  m  Korea, 
2S6. 

Mullard,  S.,  405. 

"  Musashi,"'  the,  of  the  Japanese  navy, 

445.  44'J- 
Museum,  the,  at  Tokio,  106 
Mussulmans,  the,  471. 
Musiime,  the,  in  Tokio,  79  ;  in  Kobe, 

131-  136- 
Mutsu-hito,  the  Mikado  of  Japan,  76  ; 
his  palace  at  Tokio,  114,  115;  de- 
scription of,  119;  a  great  lover  of 
flowers,  119;  wonderful  reforms  ac- 
complished by,  120,  121  ;  his  great- 
ness, 123;  overthrows  the  Shoguns, 
185  ;  forms  a  constitutional  system 
of  government,  1S6;  the  spiritual  as 
well  as  the  temporal  head  of  the  em- 
pire, 186  ;  his  new  constitution,  1S6  ; 
his  cabinet,  1S6  ;  his  jealous  care  for 
the  army  and  navy,  1S8,  195  ;  the 
great  incarnate  god  of  Shintoism,  196. 


N 


Nabastiimo,  223. 

Nagasaki,  Japan,  113  ;  situation  of,  159  ; 
history  of,  t6o;  described,  160;  the 
O'Sucva  Temple  near,  163-164  ;  the 
korausha  at,  164  ;  industries  at,  164, 
165,  166;  fishing  interests  of,  166; 
harbor  of,  167  ;  the  Feast  of  Lanterns, 
169;  the  dry-dock  at,  175,  177;  its 
water  supply,  17S;  the  crematory 
near,  17S;  the  old  mill  at,  iSo  ;  the 
climate  of,  iSi  ;  imports  and  exports 
«f,  iSi  ;  newspapers  of,  181  ;  churches 


and  schools  at,  iSi ;  population  of, 
181  ;  foreign  residents  of,  181  ;  192. 

Nagoya,  Japan,  133 ;  a  military  dis- 
trict, 1S8. 

Nainaimo,  mines  at,  9. 

''  Nakado  "  (middleman),  the,  in  Japan, 
149,  150. 

Nakamashema  coal-mine,  the,  Japan, 
17S. 

Nan-hai,  320. 

"  Naniwa,"  the,  of  the  Japanese  navy, 
description  of,  1S9  ;  445,  446  ;  attacks 
and  wrecks  the  "  Kuang  Yi,"  449; 
sinks  the  "  Kowshing,"  450  ;  attacks 
the  Chinese  fleet,  452-455. 

"  Nanshan,"  the  U.  S.  transport,  in 
tlie  battle  of  Cavite,  4S4. 

"  Napier,"  the  ship,  40S. 

Kara  school  of  metal-workers,  in  Japan, 
21 /• 

Nashiji  decoration,  the,  in  Japan,  212. 

Nasinia  Light,  48. 

"  Nazo  toki,"  the,  in  Japan,  206. 

Negroes,  at  Hong-kong,  402. 

Negros,  the  island  of,  470  ;  the  people 
of,  471. 

Ne-no-omi,  rebels  against  the  Emperor 
Vuryaku,  201;  death  of,  201. 

"  Nestor,"  the  story  of,  20. 

Netherlands,  the,  blockade  the  Philip- 
pines, 477  ;  defeated  by  the  Spanish, 

477- 

New  Chwang,  China,  592,  411. 

"  Newport,"  the  U.  S.  transport,  at 
Manila,  502. 

Nichiren  Buddhists,  the,  in  Japan,  199. 

Nicka,  Japan,  temple  at,  210. 

Nieuchwang,  459  ;  the  Chinese  at,  460, 
464. 

Ningpo,  China,  water-port  at,  305 ; 
location  of,  306;  the  surrounding 
country,  306  ;  industries  of,  306 ;  the 
city  walls,  306;  the  moat,  306,  307; 
"  the  heaven-sent  pagoda  "  at,  308  ; 
streets  of,  308  ;  shops  of,  30S ;  burial- 
places  outside,  30S ;  opened  to  for- 
eign trade,  31S;  its  coasting  and  in- 
land trade,  31 S  ;  population  of,  319. 

Ningpo  River,  the,  China,  305  ;  pon- 
toon bridge  across,  308,  309. 

Nippon,  112. 

Nirvana,  meaning  of,  200. 


Index 


529 


Ni-Taijo,  252;  deposes  the  Wang  dy- 
nasty in  Korea,  2S1. 

"  Niugyo-tsukai,"  the,  in  Japan,  206. 

Niiisei,  a  famous  Japanese  porcelain- 
worker,  225. 

Nobility,  tlie  Japanese,  restoration  of, 
187.' 

Nobles,  Chinese,  379. 

Nobuiye,  216. 

Nodzu,  General,  in  the  Japan-China 
war,  451  ;  at  Haichang,  463. 

Nogi,  General,  at  Kaiping,  460. 

Nomi-no-Siikune,  the  originator  of 
Japanese  ceramic  art,  220  ;  decorated, 
220. 

North  America,  the  Pacific  coast  of, 
320. 

North  China,  2S1. 

North  Formosa,  326. 

Nunabiki  waterfall,  the,  at  Kobe, 
Japan,  137,  140,  141. 

"  Nymphe,"  the,  26. 


O 


Oak,  the,  in  Japan,  no. 

Oakland,  3,  5. 

"  Obi  "  (sash),  the,  in  Japan,  132,  14S. 

Ogden,  2. 

Ohlutors,  the,  45. 

Ojiu,  the  Japanese  god  of  war,  288. 

Okhotsk,  the  Sea  of,  44. 

Old  age,  Japan  a  paradise  for,  Sy  ;  Ko- 
rean respect  for,  2S4. 

"  Old  Man,"  13. 

Old  Men's  Home,  the,  at  Canton, 
China,  363. 

Old  Women's  Home,  the,  at  Canton, 
China,  363. 

Oliff,  M.,  405. 

Oliva,  A.  M.  de,  in  command  of  the 
"  Castilla  "  in  the  battle  of  Cavite, 
490 ;  wounded  in  battle,  497. 

"  Olympia,"  the  U.  S.  S.,  in  tlie  battle 
of   Cavite,  484,  4S5,  488,  4S9,  491, 

495,  503,  504;  505- 
Olympics,  the,  7,  8,  11. 
Omaha,  2. 

"Ombo,"  the,  in  Japan,  206. 
Omori    school    of    metal-workers,     in 

Japan,  217. 
Onalga  Pass,  the,  12. 


"  Onyoshi,"  the,  in  Japan,  206. 

Opium-smoking,  in  China,  317,  366; 
description  of,  317. 

Opium  war,  the,  between  Great  Britain 
and  China,  31S. 

"Orange  Peko  "  tea.  the  preparation 
of,  368. 

Oribe  ware,  Japanese,  225. 

Osaka,  Japan,  133;  situation  of,  153; 
the  "Venice  of  the  East,"  153;  a 
native  city,  153;  the  Imperial  mint 
at,  154;  the  products  of,  154;  a 
manufacturing  centre,  154;  the  seat 
of  the  Provincial  government,  154  ; 
formerly  the  capital  of  the  Toku- 
gawa  Shoguns,  155  ;  the  castle  of 
the  Shoguns  at,  155  ;  the  Haku 
Butsu  at,  156;  the  Temroji  temple 
at,  156;  the  population  of,  156;  the 
imports  and  exports  of,  156  ;  a  mili- 
tary district,  iSS;  192,  216. 

Oseka,  General,  in  the  Japan-China 
war,  458. 

Oshima,  General,  in  the  Japan-CIiina 
war,  430. 

"Oshima,"  the,  of  the  Japanese  navy, 

445.  446. 

O'Sueva  Temple,  the,  near  Nagasaki, 
Japan,  163  ;  described,  163,  164. 

"Overland  Flyer,"  the,  2. 

Owaii,  the  province  of  Japan,  224. 

Owair,  the  plains  of,  75. 

Owl,  the,  in  Japan,  in. 

Ozamiz,  J.,  in  command  of  the  trans- 
port "  Manila  "  in  the  battle  of  Ca- 
vite, 491. 


Pachan    Island,     Pescadores,     the 

Japanese  fleet  at,  465. 
Pacific  Ocean,  the,  5,  iS,  44,  156,  469, 

472. 
Pagoda,  the  "heaven-sent,"  at  Ningpo, 

China,  308;  description  of,  30S. 
Painters,  Chinese,  352. 
Palm,  the,  in  Japan,  iii. 
Panay,  the  island  of,  470. 
"  Panfah,"    the  Chinese  tender,   sunk 

by  the  Japanese,  462. 
Papinberg,   the  island  of,  Japan,   157, 

159,  160,  426. 
Paragua,  the  island  of,  471. 


34 


53^ 


Index 


Parliament,  the  first  Japanese,  iS6; 
composition  of,  iS6.  192. 

Parsees.  the,  in  Japan,  51,  64  ;  at  Hong- 
kong. 402. 

Pasai,  American  troops  at,  502. 

Pasig  River,   the,  41S,  421,   423,  43S, 

49°!  493r  5=54.  506- 
Pass  No.  -2.  32. 
"  Paul,  Prince."  14;  \-isits  the  "  Alert," 

15  ;  his  unfortunate  experience,  15. 
Pawn-shops,  Chinese,  364. 
Pearl  River,  the,  see  Hu-imin  River, 

ihe. 
Pei-ho  River,  the,  China,  235. 
Peking,  China,  252,  269,  391,  392 ;  the 

Chinese  in  force  at,  466. 
"  Penia-cloth,'"'  439. 
Pepo-holians,  tlie,  323  :   characteristics 

of,  324:   their  love  for   the  Dutch, 

324 :   driven  back  by  the    Chinese, 

324- 

Pepper,  John.  405, 

Perry,  Commodore,  visits  Japan,  192, 
222. 

Pescadores,  the,  425,  465  ;  ceded  to 
Japan,  466,  467. 

Peter  the  Great.  3S. 

"Petrel,"  the  U.  S.  S.,  in  the  battle 
of  Cavite,  4S4.  4SS.  4S9,  491,  503, 
504. 

Petropaulski.  the  Russian  settlement 
of,  34,  36 :  history  of,  3S  :  Behring 
at,  3S :  description  of,  3S,  39 :  the 
houses  of,  39 ;  customs  of  the  inhabi- 
tants of.  40  ;  products  of,  41,  42,  44; 
the  harbor  of.  45 . 

Philippine  Islander,  the,  description  of, 
473;  474- 

Philippine  Islands,  the,  3,  112,  320  ; 
Chinese  emigrants  in,  3S7 :  intro- 
duction of  vaccination  into,  424;  lo- 
cation of,  432,  469  ;  division  of,  432 ; 
population  of,  432  ;  Jesuits  at,  432 ; 
priests  and  their  power,  432  :  early 
strife  in.  432  :  captured  by  the  British, 
but  restored  to  Spain,  4^2,  477 ; 
troops,  432  ;  untamed  Indians  of, 
433;  the  ''mestizos"  of,  4^5  :  the 
wet  season  in,  435  :  a  centre  of  vol- 
canic action,  435  ;  earthquakes  in, 
435  :  the  people  of,  437  ;  gambling 
in,   437 ;    the   climate   of,   437,    469, 


470 ;  population  of,  437  ;  the  public 
revenue  of,  43S;  exports  of,  43S  ; 
the  manufacture  of  Manila  hemp, 
439  ;  the  principal  islands  of,  470  ; 
prohibitive  restrictions  of  trade,  470 ; 
the  original  settlers  of,  471  ;  celebra- 
tion of  the  first  mass  in,  472  ;  taken 
possession  of  by  M.ighallans  for 
Spain,  472  ;  Legaspi  completes  the 
annexation  to  Spain  of,  473 ;  the 
official  language  of,  473 ;  the  Friars 
the  actual  rulers  of,  474 ;  dependen- 
cies of  Mexico,  476 ;  Spain's  effort  to 
cut  off  trade  of  Mexico  and  China 
from,  476 ;  blockaded  by  ships  from 
the  Netherlands,  477 ;  the  public 
revenue  of,  477 :  should  not  be  re- 
stored to  Spain,  477 ;  the  needs  of, 
47S  ;  captured  by  the,Americans,  500- 
507 ;  Aguinaldo  proclaims  the  inde- 
pendence of,  501  ;  the  American 
commanders  demand  the  surrender 
of,  505  ;  General  Merritt  becomes  the 
first  American  governor  of,  505. 

'•  Pheasant,"  the,  26. 

Pheasant,  the.  in  Japan,  11 1. 

Pichili.  Gulf  of.  China.  235,  237,  451  ; 
the  Chinese  fleet  at,  452  ;  the  Japan- 
ese fleet  at,  455.  460. 

Pine,  the,  in  Japan,  in. 

Ping-yang,  Korea,  r4i,  450 ;  Chinese 
troops  at,  451  ;  attacked  and  cap- 
tured by  the  Japanese.  452. 

Ping-yang  Inlet,  259 ;  description  of. 
260,  261  :  fortifications  and  Govern- 
or's House  at,  263:  266.  451;  the 
Japanese  fleet  at,  452,  455  ;  battle 
at,  452-455.  456. 

Ping-yang  River,  the.  Korea.  279. 

"  Ping  Yuen."  the.  of  the  Chinese  na\'y, 
44S  ;  attacked  by  the  Japanese  fleet. 
453-455 :  taken  as  a  prize  by  the 
Japanese.  463. 

Pisa,  the  tower  of,  308. 

Pitsewo.  the  town  of,  occupied  by  the 
Japanese,  455. 

Plantago,  the.  in  Japan,  in. 

Plum,  the  wild,  in  Japan,  in. 

Poabi,    Formosa,  323  ;  native  huts  at, 

324- 
Ponghan.  the  Japanese  troops   landed 
at,  465. 


Index  ^2i 

Ponies,  Japanese,  56 ;  Chinese,  56,  212,   I  }'. 

295. 
Pontoon  bridge,  tiie,  at  Ningpo,  '.  at  Tokio,  i<>7. 

308.  .  ^... ,,_..  ,,.  ,.,„.,.,  132, 133,  ir'  -  :-: 

*'<'Ppy»  **>«>  •"  Japan,  III,  China,  2<>4,  3<>2. 

Porcdains,  Japantase,  75,  i{4. /C-.  zi—  .''^''^i'.."     '.',';    U.   n.    ■-..  -: 

224;  Chinftse,  223.  3^. 
Port  Arthvr,   ^jh-;-?;    f',r- 

235,  i  -  ..yi.  y^i,  y.- 

China,  466. 
Port  ;.:    C'- :-;,    -'.? 
P 

itvLesn.   y^'^  (A  K-itviu^f  4i<6 ;  .vk  '-tj 

41 J :    f'-rrr;  -,  :    i^i-r.  ;-f:. 

4h;  : 

PotteTi 


Ij'.r. 


P- 
Pr 


Pulo  Cabalk 

3faiiila  Bay 
Ptmta  Gr/rda 

Bar,  490,  4  ,- 
Pmieatax.  the,  x" 
*'  Pu-san,"  see  Fu-:an. 

Q 

QOAH,  44.   318. 

Qneen  of  Heaven,  the,  Cj-:'-  -  » 

to,  307,  308- 
Qoeoi's  Rioad,  tiic,  at  Hiwr. ; 
Qnelpait.  Korea.  275 ;  kcaaoo  oi-  27; ; 

descriptJion  of,  275:  coast  of,  275: 

279, 
Qnene,  flie,  Chinese  r^ard  for,  383. 


Ji66. 


532 


Index 


Sable,  43. 

Sacramento,  3. 

Sacred  white  horse  of  Jungu  Temple, 

the,  2SS. 
Saijiro,    originator    of    Kutana    ware, 

224  ;  death  of,  224. 
Sailors,  Japanese,  i8g. 
St.  George,  the  island  of,  25,  28 ;  the 

"  Alert  "  at,  28  ;  location  of,  28 ;  the 

inhabitants  of,  29  ;  the  settlement  of, 

29,  30.  32- 
St.    Paul,   the   Church   of,  at    Macao, 

412. 
St.  Paul  Island,  26,   28;  the  "Alert" 

at,  28,  29,  30,  37. 
St.  Petersburg,  20. 

"  Saki  "  (lemonade),  Japanese,  136,  151. 
"  Sakyo,"  the  Japanese  steamer,  attacks 

the  Chinese  fleet,  452-455. 
Salmon,  17,  18,  21,  43,  44. 
Salmon  berry,  the,  in  Unalaska,  16. 
Saman,  the  island  of,  470. 
"  Samisan,"  the  Japanese,  136. 
"  Samovar,"  the,  description  of,  40. 
Sampan  ferry,  Japanese,  159. 
"  Sampans,"  Japanese,  51,  63,  75,  160, 

345- 
"Samuri,"  the,  in  Japan,  215. 
'■San    Antonio,"     Maghallans'    ship, 

472.^ 
Sandwich    Islands,    the,    Chinese   emi- 
grants in,  387. 
San  Francisco,  i,  3,  5,  9,  469. 
Sangley  Point  Battery,  the,  at  Cavite, 

490,  496,  49S. 
San  Lucae  de  Banameda,  Maghallans 

sails  from,  472. 
San    Miguel   drive,    the,    Manila,   422, 

428. 
Santa  Ana,  the  convent  of,  414. 
"Santiago,"  Magiiallans'  ship,  472. 
Sanyo  Railway,  the,  in  Japan,  135. 
"  Sarugaku  No,"  the,  in  Japan,  206. 
"  Saru-hiki,"  the,  in  Japan,  206. 
Satee    River,    the,    Korea,    239,   241 ; 

navigation  of,  241. 
Sato,  Colonel,  in  the  Japan-China  war, 

431- 
Satsuma,  the  Prince  of,  invades  Korea, 

220,  222. 
Satsuma     porcelain,     Japanese,    220; 


loses  favor,  221;  regains  favor,  222; 

modern  work  inferior  to  the  ancient, 

222. 
Satsuma-Tangen     pottery,     Japanese, 

221. 
"Scented  Caper"  tea,  the  preparation 

of,  36S. 
Schoolmasters,      Chinese,     313;     the 

honorable  position  of,  314  ;  respon- 
sibility of,  314. 
Schools,    Chinese,   313;    punishments 

in,  314,  382. 
Schools,  Japanese,  106,  123,  174. 
Sea  Island  cotton,  2S5. 
Sealers,  illegal,  24,  25. 
Seal  hunting,  27,  28. 
Sea  lions,  17. 

Seal  rookeries,  26,  27,  28,  29,  30,  31. 
Seals,  12,    17,  26;  description  of,  27; 

28,  29,  30 ;  habits  of,  30,  31;  37,  44. 
Seals,  use  in  China,  Japan,  and  Korea 

of,  214. 
Seal-skins,  treatment  of,  31,  32. 
Sea-otter,  43. 
Sedan    chair,   the,    in   Japan,    121  ;    in 

Korea,  256. 
Seiji  ware,  Japanese,  224. 
Seikwan,  Korea,  the  Chinese  defeated 

by  the  Japanese  at,  450. 
"  Seki-mori,"  the,  in  Japan,  206. 
Semencheng,  4^8. 
"Semmin,"   the,  in  Japan,    201,   202, 

205,  207,  208. 
Senate  and  Supreme  Judiciary,  the,  in 

Japan,  186. 
Sendai,  Japan,  a  military  district,  1S8. 
Seoul,  Korea,   70,  139,  240,  241,  251; 

description  of,  252;  houses  of,  252; 

"belt-roads"    in,   253;    gateway  to, 
253 ;    the   King's  palaces    in,   253 ; 

shops  of,  255;  street-life  in,  256,  277, 

279,  2S1,    291,    443,   450;   Japanese 

troops  at,  452. 
Sepoys,  Indian,  at  Victoria,  406. 
Sesame, the,  in  Japan,  iii. 
Seto,  224. 

Settsu,  the  province  of,  Japan,  153. 
Shaghalen  Islands,  the,  41. 
Shakudo  school  of  bronze-workers,  the, 

in  Japan,  217. 
Shambashi,  Japan,  75. 
"  Sha-mien,' '    the    Sand-flats,   Canton, 


Index 


533 


China,  344  ;  its  use  for  foreign  resi- 
dents, 346,  347  ;  its  location,  347 ; 
tlie  residences  on,  347,  348,  399. 

Slian-chas-slian,  Mount,  Formosa,  320. 

Shanghai,  China,  294;  railway  at,  294; 
location  of,  295;  303;  consulates  at, 
295 ;  description  of,  295 ;  the  drives 
about,  295;  the  old  town,  296;  the 
gateways  of,  296;  the  streets  of,  297 ; 
the  houses  of,  297  ;  the  people  of, 
297;  the  shops  of,  29S  ;  the  charity  hos- 
pital at,  299 ;  the  Mandarin's  tea- 
garden  at,  300  ;  the  Jeweller's  Guild 
at,  300;  the  great  temple  at,  300; 
tea-gardens  at,  301 ;  the  municipal 
government  of  the  foreign  settle- 
ments, 303 ;  churches,  missions,  and 
schools  at,  303  ;  in  possession  of  the 
Tae-ping  rebels,  304 ;  commercial 
importance  of,  304  ;  imports  and 
exports  of,  304  ;  opened  to  foreign 
trade,  31S  ;  319,  392,  393. 

Shan-hai-kwan,  Chma,  392. 

Shantung,  the  district  of,  465. 

Shantung  promontory,  the,  China,  227, 

45I'  455>  460- 
Sharhaiwan,    the  Chinese   in  force  at, 

466. 
Sheba,  japan,  mortuary  temples  of  the 

Shoguns  at,  91,  95  ;  description  of, 

94-105;  200;  temple  at,  210. 
Shepherd's  purse,  the,  in  Japan,  11 1. 
Shibuichi  school  of  bronze-workers,  in 

Japan,  217. 
Shigaraki  ware,  Japanese,  225. 
Shikoku,  Japan,  190. 
"Shiku,"  the,  in  Japan,  206. 
Shimonoseki,  Japan,  124,  133;  govern- 
ment dockyards  at,  133. 
Shimonoseki,  the  Straits  of,  Japan,  156, 

227 ;  McDougal  in,  229  ;  description 

of,  229,  274. 
Shina,  Korea,  invaded  by  the  Japanese, 

287. 
Shina,    the   King   of,   submits   to    the 

Japanese,  287. 
Shinegawa,  Japan,  75. 
"  Shin-gu,"   the  sacred  Chinese   edict, 

3S1. 
Shing-king,  China,  394. 
Shinkoji,    the    temple     of,    at    Kobe, 

Japan,  130. 


Shintoism,  in  Japan,  105  ;  described, 
105;  1S6,  192;  fundamental  princi- 
ple of,  195  ;  is  broad  and  liberal,  193; 
principal  deity  of,  195;  tlie  Sacred 
Book  of,  196;  the  Mikado  the  great 
incarnate  god  of,  196  ;  200. 

Shinto  temples,  in  Japan,  105;  de- 
scribed, 105,  106,  197;   170,  197. 

"Shinuhi,"  tlie,  in  Japan,  202. 

Ship-building-,  in  Japan,  72,  134. 

ShipjJO  ware,  Japanese,  219;  manu- 
facture of,  219. 

Shirkie,  the,  in  Japan,  iii. 

Sliiro,  the,  at  Tokio,  76. 

"  Shisaldin,"  Mount,  12. 

"  Shishi-mai,"  the,  in  Japan,  206. 

Shogunate,  the  Japanese,  founded  by 
Yori-touri,  1S7  ;  216. 

Shoguns.  the,  in  Japan,  139  ;  the  mili- 
tary commanders,  1S5  ;  efforts  of  the 
Mikados  to  depose,  1S5;  overthrown 
by  the  present  Mikado,  1S5  ;  patrons 
of  art,  210. 

Shoguns,  the  Tokug2.wa,  mortuary 
temples  of,  near  Sheba,  91,  94,   95, 

97- 
Shopajul,  the  island  of,  449. 
Shousui,  of  Ise,  the  father  of  Japanese 

porcelain,  222,  223. 
Siberia,  20,  44,  275, 
Sidrach,  J.,  in  command  of  the  "  Isia 

de   Cuba''  in  the  battle  of  Cavite, 

400. 
Sikhs,  at  Hong-kong,  402. 
Silk,  Japanese,  60,  154;  Chinese,  236. 
Silk  weavers,  Chinese,  355,  390. 
Silvers,  James,  405. 
Silveria,  Jeronimo  de,  first   royal   gov- 
ernor of  Macao,  414. 
Siyuen,  458. 

Slaves,  in  Japan,  203-205. 
"  Sleeping  Buddha,"   the,  at  Canton, 

China,  359. 
Snipe,  the,  in  Japan,    iii;    in  China, 

31S. 
"Sodekoi,"  the,  in  Japan.  206. 
Solcedo,  Juan  de,  defeats  Li  Ma  Man, 

477- 
Soma  ware,  Japanese,  225. 
South  Africa,  64,  275. 
South  America,  Chinese  emigrants  in, 

3^7,  472. 


534 


Index 


Southern  Sea,  the,  320. 

South  Kensington  Museum,  the,  216. 

Spain,  425  ;  secures  possession  of  the 
Philippine  Islands,  472,  473;  the 
United  States  declares  war  against, 
4S0. 

Spain,  the  Queen  of,  499. 

Spaniards,  the,  name  the  island  of  For- 
mosa, 323  ;  discover  Formosa,  329  ; 
at  Manila,  429,  437,  469;  in  posses- 
sion of  the  Philippines,  470  ;  defeat 
the  Netherland  ships  at  the  Philip- 
pines, 477;  fought  well  in  the  battle 
of  Cavite,  489. 

Spanish  Club,  the,  at  Manila,  498, 

Spanish  language,  the,  473. 

Steakeuse,  Mount,  Lamma,  410. 

Stork,  the,  in  Japan,  iii. 

Subig  Bay,  4S4. 

Suicide,  the  Japanese  custom  of,  220; 
the  custom  abolished,  220. 

Suinin,  the  Mikado,  of  Japan,  220. 

Sulu,  the  people  of,  471. 

Sulu,  the  Sultan  of,  471. 

"  Sulus,''  the,  471. 

Summit,  2. 

Sumuchang,  459. 

Sundai,  113. 

Sun  Lake,  China,  307 ;  sacred  island 
in,   307 ;    temples    upon  the  island, 

307- 

"  Swadka,"  40. 

Swatow,  China,  325;  location  of,  336; 
fortifications  of,  339  ;  houses  of,  339  ; 
an  important  tea  market,  339 ;  its 
women,  339 ;  the  superstitious  na- 
tives of,  342  ;  population  of,  342. 

Swords,  Japanese,  214;  the  etiquette 
of,  215,  216. 

Sylvia,  Mount,  Formosa,  320. 


Tae  Kuang,  Emperor  of  China,  376. 
Tae-ping  rebels,  the,  in  possession  of 

Shanghai,  304. 
Ta-Hsis-sz,  the,  China,  377. 
"  Tai-wan,"  see  Formosa^  the  island  of . 
Tai-wan,  the  capital  of  Formosa,  326, 

329.  33°- 
"  Takachiho,"    the,   of    the    Japanese 
navy,  description  of,  189;  445,  446; 


attacks  the  Chinese  fleet,  452-455, 
460. 

"  Takao,"  the,  of  the  Japanese  navy, 
445,  446. 

Takatori  ware,  Japanese,  225. 

Takow,  Formosa,  location  of,  323 ; 
commercial  activity  of,  323  ;  the  sur- 
rounding country,  323  ;  326  ;  strongly 
fortified,  330. 

Taku,  harbor  of,  Korea,  279,  449,  451; 
tlie  Chinese  fleet  at,  452,  456;  the 
Chinese  in  force  at,  466. 

Takushan,  45S ;  held  by  the  Japanese, 
460. 

Takuzayemon,  223. 

Talienwan  Bay,  the  Chinese  fleet  at, 
452,  455  ;  the  Japanese  fleet  at,  456; 
made  the  base  of  the  Japanese  opera- 
tions, 456,  457,  460,  463,  466. 

Talu  Tao,  454. 

Tambo,  American  troops  at,  501,  502. 

Tamekichi,  224. 

Tam-sui,  Formosa,  320,  329,  333. 

Tam-sui  River,  the,  Formosa,  320,  326. 

Tangen,  the  Prince  of,  221. 

"  Tan  Haks,"  secret  societies  in  Korea, 

443- 
Tan-shan    Mountains,   the,    Formosa, 

320. 
Tanyu,  the  famous  decorator,  221. 
Taoism,  195. 
Tapingsham,  captured  by  the  Japanese, 

463- 

Tartars,  the,  conquer  China,  123;  de- 
feat Kisbi,  281  ;  drive  the  Dutch  out 
of  Formosa,  329  ;  in  Canton,  China, 
348  ;  degrade  the  Chinese,  3S2  ;  386. 

Tatsumi,  General,  enters  Fenghuan- 
chung,  458,  459. 

Tattooing,  in  Formosa,  325. 

Tea,  40;  picking  in  China,  301-302; 
its  cultivation  in  China,  31S  ;  For- 
mosan  trade  in,  333  ;  the  prepara- 
tion of,  36S. 

Tea-bush,  the,  in  Japan,  iii. 

Tea  hongs,  Chinese,  367. 

Tea-houses,  Japanese,  71  ;  Korean, 
240. 

Tea-testing,  in  China,  368. 

Tea  trade,  the,  in  Japan,  152. 

Telegraph,  the,  in  Korea,  241,  273;  in 
China,  392. 


Index 


535 


•'Temple  of  Horrors,"  the,  at  Canton, 
China,  361. 

Temple  of  the  God  of  War,  the,  at  Can- 
ton, China,  362. 

"  Temple  of  the  Ocean  Banners,"  the, 
see  Har-Chwatig-Sze,  the. 

Temples,  Chinese,  307. 

Temroji  Temple,  the,  at  Osaka,  Japan, 
156. 

Tenchan,  460. 

Tents,  Tartar,  94. 

Teruliide,  21;. 

"  Teubotate,"  the,  in  Japan,  206. 

Teukchasu,  the  town  of,  Formosa,  326. 

"  Teurin,"  the,  of  the  Japanese   navy, 

445.  446- 
Thai-ouan,  the  port  of,  Formosa,  326. 
Theatres,  Japanese,  69. 
Theatrical    school,    the,    at     Canton, 

China,  365. 
"  Thetis,"  the,  26. 
Thibet,  392. 
Third  Oregon  Infantry,  the,  at  Manila, 

492. 
Thistle,  the,  in  Japan,  11 1. 
Thompson,    Quartermaster,   death   of, 

22  ;  buried  at  sea,  22,  23. 
Three-Peaked  Point,  462. 
Tienchwangtai,    the  Chinese   at,   460 ; 

captured  by  the  Japanese,  464. 
Tientsin,  China,  392,  395  ;  the  Chinese 

in  force  at,  466. 
Tiger,  the,  in  Korea,  262. 
"  Tiger's    Mouth,"    the,    see    "  Boca- 
Tigris^^''  the. 
Ting,     Admiral,    in    the    Japan-Cliina 

war,  453;  engages  the  Japanese  fleet, 

453 ;   capitulates  witli  the  Japanese, 

463  ;  commits  suicide,  463. 
"Ting   Yuen,"    the,    of    the    Chinese 

navy,  448;  attacked  by  the  Japanese 

fleet,  453-455  ;  sunk  by  the  Japanese, 

462. 
Tobacco,  in  Korea,  2S6. 
Tobacco-fields,  Japanese,  75,  in. 
Tobacco  industry,  the,  in  China,  365. 
Togalog  language,  the,  473. 
"  Togalogs,"  the,  471 ;  description  of, 

471. 
Togi-dashi   decoration,    the,   in   Japan, 

212, 
Tokio,   65,  72,   75;    situation  of,  76; 


inhabitants  of,  76;  a  picture  of  life 
at,  76;  the  children  of,  S4,  94;  the 
Museum  and  the  Zoological  and  Bo- 
tanical Gardens  at,  106;  tiie  Im- 
perial University  at,  106;  the  Club 
and  hotels  of,  107;  the  Emperor's 
palace  at,  114;  133,  155,  1S5  ;  a  mili- 
tary district,  18S  ;    192. 

Tokio  Historical  Society,  the,  201. 

Tokugawa,  Shoguns,  the,  in  Japan, 
105;  Osaka  formerly  the  capital  of, 
155  ;  surrender  to  the  Mikado,  155; 
the  castle  of,  155  ;  deposition  of, 
1S7;  much  given  to  social  classiflca' 
tions,  205-207;   208. 

Tomioka,  the  Point  of,  48. 

Tong-hai,  320. 

Torii,  Japanese,  49. 

Tortoise-shell  work,  in  Japan,  165. 

Toy  pedler,  the  Japanese,  165. 

Toys,  children's,  in  Japan,  88. 

Tramps,  Japanese,  204. 

Trent,  the  Council  of,  475. 

"  Trocado,"  the,  69,  71. 

Troubadours,  Japanese,  93. 

Trucker,  2. 

Tsai  Tien,  see  Kiiang-Sii. 

"  Tsao  Kiang,"  the  Chinese  steamer, 
449 ;  taken  as  prize  by  the  '•  Akit- 
sushima,"  450. 

"Tsein,"  the,  384  ;  value  of,  3S4;  use 
of,  384. 

Tsianghan,  Chinese  city  of,  306. 

Tsike,  Chinese  city  of,  306. 

"  Tsi  Yuen,"  the,  of  the  Chinese  navy, 
449;  attacked  by  the  Japanese,  but 
escapes,  449,  450;  taken  as  a  prize 
by  the  Japanese,  463. 

"  Tsube,"  the  use  of,  in  Japan,  216, 
217. 

Tsuboi,  Rear-Admiral,  attacks  the 
Chinese  fleet,  449. 

Tsui-koku  lacquer,  the,  in  Japan,  212. 

Tsui-shiu  lacquer,  the,  in  Japan,  212. 

"  Tsuji-mekura,"  in  Japan,  206. 

"  Tsukushi,"  the,  of  the  Japanese 
navy,  description  of,  1S9;   445. 

Tsumi,  Japan,  75. 

Tu-cha-Yuan,  the,  China,  description 
of,  37S. 

Tumun  River,  the,  Korea,  279 ;  de- 
scription of,  279. 


53^ 


Index 


Tundi  Buddhists,  the,  in  Japan,  19S. 
Tung   Chi,    iimpeior    ot    China,   376; 

death  of,  376. 
Turks,  at  Hong-kong,  403. 
Tu-tsing,  the  Tartar  dynasty  of,  376. 
Tu-tsing  Huei-tien,  the,  China,  i"]"]. 
Tyam  Bay,  China,  400. 
Typhoons,  320,  330,  400. 

U 

Umbrella-making,  in  Japan,  209. 

Unalaska,  the  settlement  of,  5,  6,  13; 
description  of,  14,  15;  wild  flowers 
of,  16;  the  hunter's  paradise,  16; 
fish  of,  17;  the  principal  occupation 
of,  17,  iS;  the  women,  iS,  28,  34. 

United  States,  the,  iS;  22,  152,  191, 
192;  treaty  between  Korea  and, 
291 ;  Chinese  emigrants  in,  3S7  ;  389, 
392, 438  ;  declares  war  against  Spain, 
480. 

Universal  Postal  Union,  the,  192, 

Uijina,  460. 

Uyeno,  Japan,  temple  at,  210. 


Vaccination,  introduced  into  the 
Philippine  Islands,  424. 

Vancouver  Island,  7,  8. 

Varnish  plant,  the,  in  Japan,  iii. 

"Venice  of  the  East."  the,  see  Osaka. 

Victoria,  British  Columbia,  6,  7;  the 
"Alert"  at,  8;  location  of,  8;  his- 
tory of,  8 ;  description  of ,  9  ;  a  curi- 
ous old  custom,  9  ;  business  customs 
at,  9 ;  the  houses  and  climate,  10, 
12. 

Victoria,  Hong-kong,  343,  399 ;  loca- 
tion of,  401  ;  description  of,  401 ; 
society  at,  401 ;  modern  improve- 
ments at,  403  ;  quiet  and  orderly, 
406;  industries  of,  406;  newspapers 
at,  406,  407. 

"Victoria,"  Maghallans'  ship,  472. 

Victoria  Peak,  410. 

"  Villa  Lobas,"  the  Spanish  vessel, 
burned  in  the  battle  of  Cavite,  491. 

Violet,  the,  in  Japan,  iii. 

Virginia,  old,  241. 

Visaya  language,  the,  47^. 

"  Visayas,"  the,  471;  description  of, 
471. 


Vladivostok,  Korea,  271. 
Volcanoes,  19,  34,44,  iii,  112,  113. 

\V 

Wagtail,  the,  in  Japan,  in. 

"  Waki-zashi  "  (sword),  the,  in  Japan, 
215. 

Walker,  Asa,  in  command  of  the  "Con- 
cord "  in  the  battle  of  Cavite,  491. 

Walnut,  the,  in  Japan,  iii. 

Walruses,  44. 

Wampoa,  China,  347. 

Wang  dynasty,  the,  in  Korea,  281. 

"  War-san,"  see  Gen-san. 

Washington,  the  State  of,  7. 

Water-fowl,  44. 

Wax,  the  vegetable,  in  Japan,  in. 

"  Wealth  God,"  the,  see  Dai  Koku. 

Weddings,    Japanese,     150;    Chinese, 

353- 
Wei-Hai-Wei,  China,  fortifications  of, 
235  ;  importance  of,  235  ;  location  of, 

235  ;  description  of,  235 ;  famous 
temples  at,    236 ;    naval   college   at, 

236  ;  harbor  of,  236  ;  arsenals  at,  236  ; 
believed  by  Cliinese  to  be  impreg- 
nable, 236  ;  451 ;  the  Chinese  fleet  at, 
452,  456;  460;  threatened  by  the 
Japanese    fleet,    460;    its    defences, 

461  ;  attacked  by  the  Japanese,  461, 

462  ;  occupied  by  the  Japanese,  462; 
466. 

Wei-Hai-Wei  Bay,  456. 

"  Wei  Yuen,"  the,  of  the  Chinese 
navy,  44S  ;  attacked  by  the  Japanese, 
449  ;  sunk  by  the  Japanese,  462. 

Weng  Tsung  Hien,  Emperor,  of 
China,  376. 

W^est  India  Islands,  the,  Chinese  emi- 
grants in,  387. 

Whalers,  25,  32. 

Whales,  12,  17,  25,  29,  44. 

"  White  Cloud  Mountains,"  the, 
Canton.  China,  344,  359. 

Wiju,  the  city  of,  458. 

Wildes,  Frank,  in  command  of  the 
"  Boston,"  in  the  battle  of  Cavite, 
401. 

William,  Fort,  S. 

Williams,  Mr.,U.  S.  Consul  at  Manila, 
480. 

Wiluckneski,  Mount,  46. 


Index 


537 


VVinnemucca,  2. 

Wistaria,  in  Japan,  So,  iii. 

Wolves,  in  Unalaska,  16. 

Woman's  College  of  Baltimore,  the,  16. 

Women,  iS,  20,  21,  41;  unique  life  of 

Japanese,  147  ;  in  Korea,  264. 
Wood,   E.    P.,    in    command    of    the 

"Pttrel"    in    the    battle   of   Cavite, 

491. 
Wood-carvers,  in  Japan,  210. 
Woods,  Korean,  2S7. 
Wood-workers,  in  Japan,  210. 
Woosung,  China,  294,  392. 
Woosung  River,  the,  China,  295. 
Worshippers,  Japanese,  description  of, 

S3,  S4. 
Wrestlers,  Japanese,  107-109  ;  training 

and  methods  of,  no. 
"  Wyoming,"  the,   in   battle  with    the 

Japanese,    229 ;    enters    the    Inland 

Sea  of  Japan,  229. 


Yackashema,  Japan,   coal   mines   at, 

1 78. 
"  Yae}-ama,"    the,    of     the     Japanese 

navy,  445,    446 ;    Chinese   prisoners 

placed  on  board,  450. 
"  Yaiho  "  laws,  the,  in  Japan,  202. 
Yalu  River,  the,  Korea,  260,  261,  262, 

279;  description  of,   279;  navigation 

of,  279;  2S2,  2S7,  451,  452,  453,  45S, 

459- 
"Yamaban,"  the,  in  Japan,  206. 
Yamato,  Japan,  197. 
"  Yamato,"  the,  of  the  Japanese  navy, 

445-_ 
Yamigi,     Lieutenant-General,   at    Kai- 

ping,  460,  463  :  captures  Inku,    464. 
Yanasuke,  a  famous    Japanese    artist, 

222. 
Yang-tse  River,  the,  China,  293,  295. 
Yantai,  China,  231. 
"  Yashi,"  the,  in  Japan,  206. 
Yatsushina  ware.  Japanese,  225. 
Yeddo  Bay,  48,  55,  76,  229. 
Yeh,   General,  in  the  Japan-China  war, 

449- 

Yeh-ho-na-la,  marries  Kuang-Sii,  Em- 
peror of  China,  377. 

Yellow  Sea,  the,  i^-;,  227,230,  27S,  279, 
2S0,  293,  320,  345. 


Yengl  Shiki,  the  Sacred  Book  of  Sliin- 
toism,  196. 

Yesso,  112. 

Yezo,  the  island  of,  1S6,  190. 

Yih  Huan,  see  Ch'iin,  Prince. 

Yokasuka,  Japan,  71. 

Yokohama,  48  ;  the"  Alert  "  at, 51;  the 

"  Bluffs,"  52  ;  Fujiyama,  55  ;  the  har- 
bor, 55  ;  situation  of,  55  ;  the  Grand 
Hotel,  56  ;  the  Bund,  56  ;  hotels  of, 
58,  59  ;  newspapers  of,  59  ;  govern- 
ment buildings  at,  60  ;  rapid  growth 
of,  60;  population  of,  60  ;  foreign  resi- 
dents of,  60  ;  imports  and  exports, 
60;  the  Benton  Dori,  64  ;  the  Issza- 
kicho,  66  ;  71,  72,75,  114,  123,  133  ; 
the  breakwater  of,  229  ;  479. 

Yokoya  school  of  metal-workers,  in 
Japan,  217. 

Yori-touri,  General,  founds  the  Sho- 
gunate,  1S7. 

Yoshidaya,  224. 

"  Yoshino,"  the,  of  the  Japanese  navy, 
decription  of,  189  ;  445,  446  ;  attacks 
the  '■  Wei  Yuen,"  449  ;  the  '•  Tsi 
Yuen  "  escapes  from,  450  ;  attacks 
the     Chinese     fleet,   452-455  ;    460. 

Yuna  River,  the,  China,  306. 

Yungching,  occupied  by  the  Japanese, 
461. 

Yungching  Bay.  460. 

"  Yung  Wei,"  the,  of  the  Chinese 
navy,  44S  ;  attacked  by  the  Japanese 
fleet,  453-455  ;  disabled  and  fired,  454. 

Yuryaku,  Emperor,  rebellion  against, 
201. 


"  Zafiro,"  the  U.  S.  transport,  in  the 

battle  of  Cavite,  484  ;   505. 
Zamboango,  the   city  of,  an   open  port, 

470. 
"  Zato,"  tb-e,  in  Japan.  206. 
"  Zelandia,"  the   old    Dutch    fort,  326, 

329- 
Zenaba  Tea-House,  the,  at  Yokohama, 

Zingoro,  224. 

Zoological  and  Botanical  Gardens,   the, 
at  Tokio,  106. 


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